US2554940A - Sleeved garment - Google Patents

Description

J. CLYNE SLEEVED GARMENT Filed Feb; 17, 1948 FIG. 2

May 29, 1951 INVENTOR JOSEPH CLYNE P 15mm ATTORNEYS Fl G. 6

FIG. 4

' BY pwl iwuwdflll FIG. I

Patented May 29, 1951 U [T E D v TATE S fPATElN T I) F Fl CE SLEEVED GARMENT Joseph Clyne, Bronx, N. Y.,;assi'gi10r, bymcsne assignments, toFlexsl'eemlno a corporation of New York .4 Claims.

My invention relates to improvements in sleeved garments and more particularly to improvements in the sleeve structure and adjoiningelem'ents-of the garment. This invention is advantageously applied to suclrgarmentsasrobes, shirts and similar articles of'wearing apparel, although it may be applied to other garments.

Thepresent-application covers anirfiprovemen't on certain of the garment structures disclosed inmy "pending application Serial Number 771,342,

'filed August 29, 1947, for Garment Construction, which in turn is a continuation-in-part of my applications which issued as Patents Nos. 2,426,818 and '2;426;819.

It is extremely desirable that a lounging robe Ora-mans shirt, for example, should be made in such a "way that the wearer is not put under any strain when he wishes to raise his arms, "bend over or reach for'an object. A'person wearing alounging robe appreciates a well-fitted garment which he may wear around the house or apartment and do various odd tasks without havingthe movement of his arms restricted. On the other hand, he does not care for a sleeve structure which is so large that the garment may slip from side to side and become a nuisance. Garments with sleeves that are twice too large at the armpit may restrict the movement 'of the wearers arms, particularly When he is in asitting position and wishes to reach for some object.

With thesedisadvantages in mind, the primary object of the present invention is to provide -an improved garment construction, more particularly an improved lounging robe and the like, which will not only fit the wearer 'but'which is made in such a way that the wearer has freedom of arm and body movement.

Another object ofthe invention is to provide an improved garment construction which 'iseconomical to make both from the standpoint of the labor involved and the use of materials.

According to the features of the invention, the preferred form of garment construction comprises front and back sections attached to each other at the *back of the armhole, the front section including sufiicient material to provide the front section of the garment, "the material constituting this allowance extending upwardly at the armpit of the garment, a sleeve secured .to the armhole provided by the front and back sections, the armpit section lot the sleeve including an integral allowance of extra ,.;material shaped to extend .around :and .over the projectingrportionof the allowance included in theiront section of the garment, thereby providing '.a {gar- "m'ent structure having :an armhole which zapproximates arstandardrarmhole as far as circumr-ferential measurement is concerned -while :at the same time providing :a garment structure which permits the wearer .to move :his arms freely without distributing the normal position :of the b ody of :the garment.

The back section of the garment advantageously includes not more than a slightcut-out for the armhole and therefore'is aIelatively-narrow panel with approximately parallel edges which can be economically cut from the regular widths of materials. For example, .in aparticu- 'lar instance, two back sections o'f'the garment are obtainable side by :side from J36-to-,3 8 inch wide fabrics.

The structure o'f the garment maybe modified to "the extent of using a -one-or'two piecesleeve and of providing a front and back section in one piece of material.

The improved garmento'f the present invention includes other features and advantages "which will be pointed out hereinafter along with amore detailed description of the'inventicn taken in connection with the illustrative examples shown in the accompanying drawings forming a part of this application.

In the drawings: Figure :1 is apattern-type view ofa preferred ,;"form of back section ofa lounging robe constructwith the backsection shown in'Fig. "1.

Figure 3 is a pattern type view with parts broken away showingrespectively'lback and front sections of a two-piece sleeve in which the integral under-arm allowances are indicated.

Figure-.4 .is a pattern type view of a one-piece sleeve combining sleeve sections of the type shown in Figure -3, the unimportant portion of thesleeve ngbroken away. Figure 5 a broken pattern type view of a modified n of .body section of the garment in which and back sections are integrally acom-bined, the showing including essentially the '-,jfeaturesshown.in Figures land '2. r

,Eig-ure i6 enlarged broken pattern ,tv'pe view showing :apcrtion of the Iiroritsecti'on of the garment adjacent the complimentary portion of the sleeve of the garment,

Figure 7 is a view partly to one side of a lounging robe in which the features of the present in vention are illustrated.

Referring to Figure 1 of the drawings, the pattern type view represents a back panel In for a robe such as shown in Figure 7. This panel has substantially parallel edges l2 and M, a slight cut-out at l6 for the back portion of the armhole, an edge 18 which fits along the top of the shoulder and a cut-out 20 to which the collar of the garment is attached. By cutting the back panel relatively narrow so that the edge 14 substantially coincides with the back of the armhole [6, two such panels may be obtained side by side in one width of the material which is only 36 to 38 inches'wide. The back of the garment of course includes two panel sections Ill which are sewed together at their edges l2.

Figure 2 shows in pattern form the front section for the robe illustrated in Figure '7. This front section 22 has an edge 24 which is seamed to the edge' l l of the back section II] to provide a seam' which extends downwardly from approximately' thebac'k of the armhole or sleeve. The front edge 26 of the section'22 after finishing may be provided with buttons or simply worn overlapping a similar section as shown in Figure 7. It also includes a cut-out portion 28 to be attached to the collar and a shoulder edge 30 which is sewed to the edge I8 of the back panel section It]. I

The armhole area of the front section of the garment includes a projecting portion 32 which extends along the back of the sleeve to meet the slightcut-out iii in the' back panel l0, and an upwardly projecting point 34 directly at the under-arm portion of the section and which is approximatel centered symmetrically with an integral allowance of extra material 36 within the border of the dotted line as shown. This dotted line shows approximately what the armhole contour would be if made according to the standard pattern. In the present pattern, however, the armhole edges are relatively long curved edges extending from the point 32 and the edge Bilto the point 34.

Figure 3 shows a back sleeve section 38 and a front sleeve section 40, each of which includes integral armhole allowances in excess of the necessary material, for example, as illustrated at 42 and 44 bordered by dotted lines which correspond approximately to a standard pattern. In making up the sleeve, edges 46 and 48 are sewed together as are edges 58 and 52. When the sleeve section shown in Figure 3 are assembled together and set in the armhole of the sections shown in Figures 1 and 2, the seam made from the edges 46 and 48 will come approximately at the seam formed by edges l8 and 30.

The front sleeve section 40 includes an outwardly and forwardly projecting portion 54 and a low point 55, the latter of which is designed to fit over the point 34 of Figure 2 while the projection 54 extends toward the back of the garment. The upper edge of the allowance 44 is in the shape of a wide V. The relationship between the allowances and 44 is shown in an enlarged view in Figure 6 from which it will be seen that the allowances 35 and 44 will be sewed together to form a flat oval allowance, which of course will also inclu de the allowance 42, since the edges 59 and 52lar'e sewed together. The under-arm portion of the garment therefore includes an allowance of extra material composed of three separate portions having the shapes shown in Figures 3, 4 and 6 and described above.

Figure 4 shows in pattern form a one-piece sleeve 53 which includes allowances shaped the same as those shown in Figure 3. The top of the one-piece sleeve 58 at about the point 60 will be attached to the top of the shoulder of the garment while the other portions of the sleeve will take positions the same as described in connection with Figure 3.

- Figure 5 of the drawings shows the upper portion of a body section 62 of a garment such as a lounging robe in which front and back sections for one side of the garment are cut from a single piece of material. This portion of the garment 62 includes edges 64 and 66 which are sewed together to form the top of the shoulder and to completely form the armhole. The vertical edge 68 will be sewed to a similar edge of another section 52 for the other. side of the gar- -ment While the edge 10 will comprise the front edge, corresponding to theedge 2B in Figure 2. The armhole of the section 62 as seen in pattern formpresents the contour of afanciful W characterized by including an upward projectionv I2 symmetrically and integral with an allowance of extra matQrial 14 shown within the curved dotted line. It will be noted that the under-arm structure and integral inclusion of front and back body sections as in Figure 5 produces a body section of the garment similar to that which is produced by sewing together the back and front sections of Figures 1 and 2 at their edges 14 and 24.

When materials are out according to the patterns shown in Figures 1, 2 and 3, and assembled into a garment as shown in Figure 7, they provide, as an illustration, a lounging robe having the style and function therein shown. In this figure, however, the back sections 10 and the back sleeve sections are not visible. The other portions of the garment, however, are numbered in accordance with the reference characters shown in Figures 2 and 3. The general area of the allowances 36, 44 and 42 in Figure 7 are indicated.

The lounging robe as shown in Figure 7 is provided with a collar 16, a belt 18 and other elements which form no part of the present invention. When the edges [4 and 24 are sewed together the seam will be approximately at the side and toward the back in Figure '7 and the same is true of the seam formed by sewing together edges 50 and 52 of the sleeve sections shown in Figure 3.

If one-piece sleeves as shown in Figure 4 are used in a robe such as shown in Figure 7, the appearance will be approximately the same and this is also true where the integral front and back body sections shown in Figure 5 are used. Other changes in these elements may be included provided the novel features relating to the underarm allowances and pattern shapes of materials and seams are included.

A garment constructed in accordance with the present invention may be made from relatively simple patterns and in an economical manner, since, for example, both back sections may be obtained parallel to each other from one width of material. Furthermore, the improved garment construction results in providing an armhole structure which is loose-fitting but out of the wearers way, and which gives the wearer freedom from any strain in the movement of his arms. The improved under-arm structure produces a garment which is comfortable to wear and which has a pleasing style, quite unlike conventional deep flapping wing-like sleeves. Furthermore, the improved structure is designed and arranged to cause the sleeve to han forward without wringling, when the arm is down.

What I claim as new is:

1. A sleeved garment comprising front and back body sections having edges which together define an armhole, said sections being .attached to each other by a seam at the back of the armhole and a seam at the top of the shoulder, the front section including sufficient material to provide the side of the garment while the back section is a substantially straight panel, an integral allowance of extra material in the front section of the garment and constituting a central continuous upwardly-extending portion defining the lower portion of the armhole, a sleeve secured to the edge of the armhole provided by the front and back sections and having an armpit section which includes an integral allowance of extra material along which a portion of the attachment edge of the sleeve extends, said portion of the attachment edge having an abrupt pointed notch extending over the said upwardly-extending portion of the front body section of the garment defining the lower portion of the armhole, and a seam securing the sleeve to the front and back sections of the garment, thereby pro viding a garment structure having a loose-fitting sleeve which permits the wearer to move his arms freely without disturbing the normal position of the garment on the wearer.

2. A sleeved garment comprising front and back body sections having edges which together define an armhole, said sections being attached to each other by a seam at the back of the armhole and a seam at the top of the shoulder, the front section including sufiicient material to provide the side of the garment while the back section is substantially a straight panel, an integral allowance of extra material in the front section of the garment and constituting a central continuous upwardly-extending portion defining the lower portion of the armhole, the lower edge of the armhole being in the shape of a curved line w, a sleeve secured to the edge of the armhole provided by the front and back sections and having an armpit section which includes an integral allowance of extra material along which a portion of the attachment edge of the sleeve extends, said portion of the attachment edge having a wide sharp-pointed V-shaped notch therein extending over the upwardly-extending portion of the front body section of the garment defining the lower portion of the armhole, and a seam securing the sleeve to the front and back sections of the garment, thereby providing a garment structure which permits the wearer to move his arms freely without disturbing the normal position of the garment on the wearer.

3. A sleeve for use in forming a sleeved garment having an under-arm portion, comprising an armpit section having edges forming a wide V-shaped notch having a distinct angle, the point of which is spaced away from the armpit section of the sleeve, and a narrow projection on the back portion of the sleeve extending toward the armpit section of the sleeve and having an edge forming a part of said notch.

4. A sleeve for use in forming a sleeved garment, said sleeve in pattern form having longitudinal edges and an attachment edge extending between the ends of the longitudinal edges at the attachment end of the sleeve, said sleeve including a substantial allowance of extra material for the armpit portion of the sleeve, said allowance being located at the junction of the attachment edge and one of the longitudinal edges of the sleeve, said portion of the attachment edge extending along said allowance having a wide pointed V-shaped notch therein, one edge of which extends from the point of the notch adjacent to said one longitudinal edge while the other edge of the notch extending from said point is in the form of a convex curve.

JOSEPH CLYNE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Clyne Sept. 2, 1947

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