US2542993A - Shoe sewing machine - Google Patents

Shoe sewing machine Download PDF

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Publication number
US2542993A
US2542993A US23841A US2384148A US2542993A US 2542993 A US2542993 A US 2542993A US 23841 A US23841 A US 23841A US 2384148 A US2384148 A US 2384148A US 2542993 A US2542993 A US 2542993A
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United States
Prior art keywords
sole
needle
presser foot
sock lining
work
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US23841A
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English (en)
Inventor
Alfred S Clark
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
United Shoe Machinery Corp
Original Assignee
United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority to BE500795D priority Critical patent/BE500795A/xx
Application filed by United Shoe Machinery Corp filed Critical United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority to US23841A priority patent/US2542993A/en
Priority to DEU1038A priority patent/DE838988C/de
Priority to CH289036D priority patent/CH289036A/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US2542993A publication Critical patent/US2542993A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02—Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/04—Shoe sewing machines for lock-stitch work

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to improvements in shoe sewing machines particularly arranged for uniting the upper, sole and wrapper or sole binding strip of a platform type shoe.
  • a machine of this type is disclosed in United States .Letters Patent No. 2,398,475, granted April 16, 1946, upon application of K. A. Stritter.
  • a machine embodying the present invention is provided with a needle, a presser foot a work support for clamping the rabbeted edge of a platform sole, in which a gage acts between the work support and presser foot and is fitted within the rabbet of the sole for contacting the setback surface of the rabbet tov guide the sewing operation.
  • a gage acts between the work support and presser foot and is fitted within the rabbet of the sole for contacting the setback surface of the rabbet tov guide the sewing operation.
  • means is provided for adjusting the position of the gage during sewing opera-tions to vary the margin of the seam inserted.
  • the advantage'of such gage is that with a sock lining attached to the platform sole the exposed margin -of 'the sock lining extending beyond the rabbeted edge of the platform sole can be supported by a surface on the gage against the thrust of the needle while the platform sole is held clear of the needle path.
  • the invention also contemplates the provision of a wrapper strip guide and a feeder to reduce the tension in the wrapper strip beyond the guide so that while sewing about the toe of a shoe excessive tension will .not be produced in the outer edge of the strip.
  • Fig. 1 is a view in right side elevation of those portions of a shoe sewing machine embodying so much of the construction as is required to obtain an understanding of the invention illustrating a portion of a shoe in section being operated upon;
  • Fig. 2 is a view in front elevation of the same parts of the machine
  • Fig. 3 is a perspective View on an enlarged scale of the wrapper ⁇ or binding strip feeder of the machine
  • Fig. 4 is a further perspective view of the work support ⁇ and edge gage in the machine
  • Fig. 5 is an enlarged sectional View showing the operation of the needle and the position in the Work at which the stitches are inserted by the machine;
  • Fig. 6 is a sectional View of a conventional platform ⁇ sole ⁇ with sock lining attached;
  • Fig. "7 is a similar view of a rabbeted plat-form sole with sock lining attached employed in the construction of the shoe ⁇ intended to be operated uponby the machine of the present invention
  • Fig. 8 is a lsectional View of a portion of a shoe after being sewn before the wrapper strip is carried about the edge of the platform sole;
  • Fig. '9 is a similar View of a completed shoe sewn on the present machine.
  • the machine illustrated in the drawings is intended to operate in securing together a temporarily connected upper and a platform sole with 4a wrapper or edge binding strip for the construction of a platform shoe such as is illustrated in Fig. 9 with the parts being operated upon unsupported by a last.
  • a last is inserted only after the parts have been attached together with a permanent seam and 'the final shape of the shoe is Adetermined bythe application of an outsole.
  • the upper is indicated at 2, the platform sole at 4, having a sock lining 6 attached to its inner surface and the binding strip at 8.
  • the platform sole is composed of loosely compressed felt or other similar material of well-known nature and is prepared by cutting to shape a layer of the felt after having secured thereto the sock lining as in Fig. 6. After cutting out the sole the inner edge, not including the sock lining, is rabbeted, as indicated at I0, leaving a margin on the sock lining exposed and unsupported by the vfelt material.
  • the upper is temporarily attached to the sock lining with their edges in registering relation and the parts are sewn together while leading the binding strip into the seam with its edge registering with those of the upper and sock lining.
  • the positions of the shoe partsl While inserting the seam is illustrated in Fig. 5.
  • the exposed margin of the sock lining is bent atright angles into the rabbet of the platform sole, which rabbet is of sufficient depth to receive the upper and binding strip edges as well.
  • the inner surface of the'binding strip then lies ush with the outer unrabbeted edge of the platform sole as shown in Fig. 8.
  • a last is inserted within the upper 2 and the binding strip folded back upon itself and carried beneath the undersurface of the platform sole 4.
  • An outsole l2 is then' attached inthe manner illustrated in Fig. 9;
  • Vthe machine of the present invention is provided with a rabbetY gage, the
  • the rabbet gage is indicated at I4 and comprises a rectangular plate having a central portion cut out' to forma slide tting a guideway block I6 (see Fig..4) carried by a work support 18.
  • the work support has a fiat flange projecting from a shank secured to the frame of the machine.
  • a.V presser foot 22 carried by a presser foot lever 24 actuated to clamp and release the work during each sewing cycle of the machine.
  • the work engaging surfaces of the work support and presser foot are disposed at an angle to that part of the needle path located ⁇ between them so that the needle enters the binding strip, upper andv sock lining andv emerges from the edge of the sole through the rabbet without penetrating the sole.
  • the clamping and releasing action of the presser foot lever causes the lever to rock about its fulcrum shaft 26 fixed in the machine.
  • actuating mechanisms for the stitch forming devices are the same and operate in a manner similar to those disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 473,870, granted April 26, 1892, upon application of French and Meyer.
  • the gage I4 is formed with undercut and slotted portions.
  • the slotted portion enables the needle to ,enter the slot therein during engagement of the needle with the work.
  • the undercut portion of the gage provides a recess along which the outer unrabbeted edge of the sole moves freely in the direction of the seam.
  • the upper surface of the gage is set between the presser foot and the work support to support the undersurface of the sock lining as shown ⁇ in Fig. 5 leaving a small space below the gage.
  • the gage enters into contact with the setback surface of the rabbet in the sole at either side of the needle path to insure holding the felt of the platform sole out of the path of the needle without interfering with the feeding movement of the sole along the gage.
  • the gage also prevents stitches from being inserted in the highly compressible portion of the platformsole.
  • the forward edge of the gage is perforated to receive the upstanding arm of a three-arm lever 40 fulcrumed on a pin 42 carried by a bracket 44 projecting from the shank 20 of the work support.
  • the lower arm of the lever 40 is acted upon by a compression spring 46 mounted between the lever and an abutment on the bracket 44.
  • a forwardly projecting arm of the lever 40 is connected with a vertical treadle rod 48 arranged for convenient foot actuation.
  • the downwardly extending arm of lever 40 carries an adjustable set screw 50 having a knurled head, the inner end of which screw acts on the abutment portion of the bracket 44.
  • the wrapper or binding strip being directed into the seam during the sewing operation.
  • the binding'strip is led through a suitable guide with one edge in registration with the edges Aof the temporarily attached upper and sock lining above the extremity of the rabbit gage.
  • the binding strip is drawn through the guide and has a tendency to be frictionally retarded in its movement throughthe guidev so as to impart a tension to the strip.
  • the illustrated guide is provided with a strip feeder acting on the strip to advance it at least as fast as required by the movement of the shoe during sewing.
  • the binding strip guide of the present machine comprises a slotted enlargement 52 on the presser foot 22 of a width to receive the binding strip 8. One side of the slotted enlargement is cut out to admit a plurality of toothed members yieldingly engaging the binding strip and holding it against the unperforated side of the slotted enlargement.
  • toothed members project from spring metal plates 54 and 56, one of which is secured between the presser foot and the lever 24 ⁇ and the other of which is secured to a bracket 58 mounted on the frame of the machine.
  • the plate 54 ⁇ has two toothed members and the plate B has three such members,l the toothed members of the plate 5d acting" between the members of plate 5S.
  • the members extend downwardly from their respective plates and at an angle to the binding strip material passing through the guide in a direction for advancing thebinding strip.
  • the presser foot moves upwardly during release of its clamping pressure on the work in each sewing cycle, the binding strip is held stationary by the toothed members on the plate 56 to advance the binding strip in the guide.
  • the toothed members on the plate 54 act tol prevent reverse movement of the binding strip relatively to the guide, thus causing a continued advancing movement of the strip inthe guide and preventing retrograde movement of the strip.
  • the presser foot is formed with a forwardly projecting guiding lug Si! between which and the main body of the presser foot the binding strip passes.
  • the lug 60 also assists in clamping the upper and sock lining in advance of the point of needle operation independently of the binding strip.
  • the thread lifter lever indicated at 62 ⁇ of the present machine is cut off above the binding strip guide and has secured to it a slotted arm 64 within the slot of which there is an eye bolt 6E.
  • the eye of the bolt 66 receives the shank of the thread hook 36 and clamps it against the arm 64.
  • the arm B4 is bent upwardly and outwardly to enable the thread lifter to clear the parts added to the presser foot.
  • a predetermined length of needle thread is measured from the supply during the formation of each stitch.
  • the measured length of thread is varied by the position of the presser foot on the work in accordance with the thickness of the work.
  • the amount of variation in thickness of the work during the progress of a seam is insuliicient to require the use of a thread measuring mechanism connected with the presser foot. Accordingly, in the present machine no measurement of thread is required, the thread being drawn rpast a simple thread tension device 68 ⁇ of wellingly pressed disks between which the thread passes.
  • the presser foot- Vfulcrurn shaft has mounted upon it an unlocking and lifting lever IU having pivotally connected to it a forked unlocking member 12. Movement of the unlocking and lifting lever in a counterclockwise direction, as viewed in'Fig. l, unlocks the presser foot by disengaging a pair of locking pawls 14 in a manner similar to that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,348,901, granted August l0, 1920, in the name of Thomas I-I. Seely. To actuate the unlocking lever 10 the lever has projecting from ita stud i6 engaged by a cam surface on an arm 18 rotatably mounted on a screw 80.
  • the screw 8e is threaded into a bracket 482 lmounted on themachine frame.
  • the rearward end of the arm18 carries a pin 84 passing through the hooked upper end of a treadle rod 8E.
  • the unlocking lever 16 is rotated and the rearward end of the arm 18 engages a harp-shaped member 38 connected with the rearward arm of the presser foot lever 24 to raise the presser foot from engagement with the work.
  • the pin d4 has connected to it one end of a tension spring 9B, the other end of which is secured to the machine frame. After raising the presser foot from engagement with the work the work is removed from the work support, withdrawing the sewing thread with it.
  • one of the tension disks has secured to it a pin 92 (see Fig. 2) slidably mounted in the other tension disk and in a passage in the machine frame.
  • a pin 92 see Fig. 2
  • the pin is forced to the left it separates the disks and relieves the tension on the thread.
  • To move the pin 92 to the left its right end is engaged with the depending arm of a hand lever 94 fulcrumed on a shoulder screw 96 secured in the machine frame.
  • a connection between the treadle rod and the tension also acts to release ⁇ the thread from the tension.
  • This connection comprises a block 98 clamped to the treadle rod and having a laterally projecting portion carrying a pair of collars
  • the link H12 is then in turn pivotally connected to an arm HM rotatable about a screw IDS and arranged at its forward end to ride over a cam surface on the depending rearward arm of the hand lever ed. 'Ihe shape of the cam surface is such that when the arm
  • the machine is effective in sewing together a shoe similar to that disclosed in the Chandler application in which the upper is temporarily attached by cement or otherwise to the sock lining of a platform shoe, the machine also is useful where the parts are not so temporarily attached.
  • the platform sole with the exposed edge of the sock lining is presented to the work support and the marginal portion of the shoe upper is directed manually toward the sewing point, keeping it continually in register with the edge of the sock lining.
  • the Wrapper strip is led into the sewingA point n the same manner as where the 7.. parts are ntemporarily attached; slightly. more skill and attention being required on the part of the operator, only to direct the unattached upper against the sock lining.
  • a shoe machine Y adapted for sewing an upper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole, the inner edge portion of which is rabbeted to expose a margin on the sock lining beyond the setback surface of the rabbet, having a needle, a work clamping presser foot anda work support disposed with its Work engaging surface atA an angle to that part of the needle path between the work support and the presser foot to cause the needle to enter the upper and sock lining and to emerge adjacent to the edge of the sole through the rabbet, in combination with a gage fitting within the rabbet of the platform sole while clamped between the work Asupport and the presser foot, with an undercut to receive the unrabbeted portion of the sole edge, and with a surface to support the exposed'margin of the sock lining against the thrust of the needle.
  • a shoe machine adapted for sewing anv upper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole, the inner edge portion of which is rabbeted to expose a margin on the 4sock lining beyond the setback surface of the rabbet, having a needle, a work clamping presser foot and a work support disposed with its work engaging surface at an angle to that part of the needle path between the work support and the presser'foot to cause the needle to enter the upper and sock lining and to emerge adjacent to the edge of the sole through the rabbet, in combination with a gage fitting within the rabbet of the platform sole while clamped between the work support and the presser foot, with an undercutto receive the unrabbeted portion of the sole edge, and with a surface to support the exposed margin of the sock lining against the thrust of the needle, and means for adjusting the position of the gage transversely of the seam line during sewing operations to vary ⁇ the margin of the seam insertedV by the needle.
  • a shoe machine adapted for sewing lan upper to a sock lining'attached to the inner surface of a platform sole, the inner edge portion of which is rabbeted to expose a margin on the sock lining beyond the setback surface of the rabbet, having a needle, a Work clamping-presser foot and a work support disposed with itsl work.
  • a shoe machine adapted for sewing an upper -to' a sock lining attached to the inner surface Yof I ⁇ a platform sole, the inner edge portion of which is rabbeted to expose-a margin on thesock linbeyondrthersetback surface ofvtlierabbet,
  • a shoemachine adapted for sewing an upper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole, the inner edge portion of which is rabbeted to expose amargin on the sock lining beyond the setback ⁇ surface of the rabbet, having a needle, a work 'clamping presser foot anda workl support disposed with its work engaging surface at an angle'to that part'of the needle path between the work support and the presser footto'cause the needle to enter the upper and sock lining and to emerge adjacent to the edge of the'sole throughthe rabbet, in combination with a gage fitting within'the rabbet of the platform sole while clamped between the work support and the presser foot, with an undercut to receive the unr'abbeted portion of the sole edge, and with'a surface to support the exposed margin'of tlnesock lining against the thrust of the needle, a guide for 'a wrapper strip located to direct the Vstrip abovethe gage and a
  • a shoe machine adapted for sewing an upper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole, the inner edge portion of which is ralcb-etedA to expose ai margin on the sock lining beyond the setback surfaceof the rabbet, having a needle-a work clamping presser foot and a Ywork support disposed with its work engaging surface at an angle to that part of the needle path between the workrsupport and the presser foot to cause the needle to'enter the upper and sock lining and to emerge adjacent to the edge of the solefthrough the rabbet, in combination with a gage tting within the rabbet of the platformrscle while clamped between the work support and the presser foot, with anundercut to receive the unrabbeted portion ofthe sole edge, and with asurface to support the exposed margin ,of the sock lining against the thrust of the needle, a guide for a wrapper strip located to direct the strip-above the gage and a feeder to relieve v
  • a shoe machine adapted for sewing anupper a platform sole, the inner edge portion of Which is rabbeted to expose a margin on the sock lining beyond the setback surface of the rabbet, having a curved needle, a work clamping presser foot and a work support disposed with its Work engaging surface at an angle to that part of the needle path between the work support and the presser foot to cause the needle to enter the upper and sock lining and to emerge adjacent to the edge of the sole through the rabbet, in cornn binaton with a slotted gage, the extremity of which lies between the presser foot and Work support and nts Within the rabbet of the platform sole beneath the upper and sock lining at a position to cause the needle to enter the slot therein and to support the sock lining against the thrust of th-e needle.
  • a shoe machine adapted for sewing an uper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole, the inn 2r edge portion of which is rabbe-ted to expose a margin on the sock lining beyond the setback surface of the rabbet, having a curved needle, a Work clamping presser foot and a Work support disposed with its Work engaging surface at an angle to that part of the needle path between the work support and the presser foot to cause the needle to enter the upper and sock lining and to emerge adjacent to the edge of the sole through the rabbet, in combination with a gage fitting within the rabbet of the platform sole for contacting the setback surface of the rabbet to direct the sewing operation along the rabbeted edge of the sole, a guide for a sole binding wrapper strip and a lug on the presser foot between which and the main body of the presser foot the Wrapper strip passes to clamp the upper and sock lining to the exclusion of the Wrapper strip in advance of the point of
  • a shoe machine adapted for sewing an upper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface or a platform sole, the inner edge portion of which is rabbeted to expose a margin on the sock lining beyond the setback surface of the rabbet, having a curved needle, a Work clamping presser root and a Work support disposed with its Work engaging surface at an angle to that part of the needle path.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
US23841A 1948-04-28 1948-04-28 Shoe sewing machine Expired - Lifetime US2542993A (en)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
BE500795D BE500795A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1948-04-28
US23841A US2542993A (en) 1948-04-28 1948-04-28 Shoe sewing machine
DEU1038A DE838988C (de) 1948-04-28 1950-12-19 Naehmaschine
CH289036D CH289036A (de) 1948-04-28 1951-01-12 Nähmaschine zum Zusammensteppen von Schuhteilen.

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US23841A US2542993A (en) 1948-04-28 1948-04-28 Shoe sewing machine

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US2542993A true US2542993A (en) 1951-02-27

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US23841A Expired - Lifetime US2542993A (en) 1948-04-28 1948-04-28 Shoe sewing machine

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BE (1) BE500795A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
CH (1) CH289036A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2752620A (en) * 1952-11-06 1956-07-03 United Shoe Machinery Corp Machines for attaching ribbed strips progressively to margins of soles
US2773461A (en) * 1952-01-09 1956-12-11 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe sewing machines
US2960947A (en) * 1952-01-09 1960-11-22 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe sewing machines

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1828966A (en) * 1928-06-04 1931-10-27 Halberg Samuel Sewing machine attachment
US2296888A (en) * 1940-06-14 1942-09-29 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe sewing machine
US2416767A (en) * 1945-09-19 1947-03-04 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe sewing machine

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1828966A (en) * 1928-06-04 1931-10-27 Halberg Samuel Sewing machine attachment
US2296888A (en) * 1940-06-14 1942-09-29 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe sewing machine
US2416767A (en) * 1945-09-19 1947-03-04 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe sewing machine

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2773461A (en) * 1952-01-09 1956-12-11 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe sewing machines
US2960947A (en) * 1952-01-09 1960-11-22 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe sewing machines
US2752620A (en) * 1952-11-06 1956-07-03 United Shoe Machinery Corp Machines for attaching ribbed strips progressively to margins of soles

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Publication number Publication date
CH289036A (de) 1953-02-28
BE500795A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)

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