US2500613A - Shoe with inclined edge-stitching and method of making the same - Google Patents

Shoe with inclined edge-stitching and method of making the same Download PDF

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Publication number
US2500613A
US2500613A US700556A US70055646A US2500613A US 2500613 A US2500613 A US 2500613A US 700556 A US700556 A US 700556A US 70055646 A US70055646 A US 70055646A US 2500613 A US2500613 A US 2500613A
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Prior art keywords
shoe
sole
stitching
platform
line
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Expired - Lifetime
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US700556A
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David E Levin
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EVINS Inc
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EVINS Inc
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/04Uppers made of one piece; Uppers with inserted gussets
    • A43B23/042Uppers made of one piece
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/14Platform shoes

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  • This invention relates to shoes and to a method of making them. More particularly, the present invention relates to shoes of the type which are provided with platform or middle soles and an edge cover for the latter.
  • One object of the present invention is to improve the fit and shape-retaining qualities of shoes of the above mentioned type.
  • Another object of the invention is to eliminate, the operation of stitching a platform cover and insole to the shoe upper in manufacturing a shoev of the above indicated type.
  • a further object is to provide a platform shoe in which the edge cover for the platform sole is an integral part of the shoe upper.
  • the upper is cut to the proper size and shape and is thereafter stitched to an insole and to a platform cover to form an assembly in which a last is inserted for the operation of applying the platform sole, the outer sole and various other parts of the shoe.
  • a shoe constructed in this manner is known as a California or slip-lasted shoe.
  • One of the disadvantages of a slip-lasted shoe is that it is not well adapted to retain its shape, by reason of the fact that the upper of the shoe is not subjected to the proper treatment which it would receive if the shoe were lasted in accordance with the prior conventional lasting operations. rihis disadvantage is eliminated in accordance with the present invention.
  • Fig. 1 is a perspective View illustrating the operation of lasting the upper of the shoe and preliminarily securing the lasting allowance of the upper to the platform sole;
  • Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the upper and platform sole after said upper and platform sole are permanently secured together;
  • Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line 3--3 of Fig. 2;
  • Fig. 4 is a side view of a shoe made in accordance with the present invention.
  • Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 showing another form of the invention.
  • the upper I0 is lasted in the usual Way on a last L as indicated in Fig. 1. More particularly, the platform sole I2 is placed on the bottom of the last from the last and the assembly is stitched together .by a line of through stitching i6. Also, the stitch.
  • Said line of stitching may extend completely around the shoe but as here shown preferably extends from a point i3 near the heel portion of the assembly forwardly around the tip of the shoe to a point 28 at the other side of the shoe near the heel portion of the assembly.
  • the line of stitching I6 is run through the platform sole I2 and penetrates the upper i0 along two lines which are f spaced vertically from each other as well as laterally of each other as indicated at 16a and iSb.
  • the line ia at which the stitching penetrates the upper is located substantially at the' crease line of the shoe. while the line Ito at which the stitching penetrates the lasting allowance 20 of the upper at the bottom of the shoe is disposed between the inner or terminal edge of the lasting' allowance or marginal edge portion of the upper and the outer peripheral edge of the shoe.
  • the stitching is directed through the upper and through the platform sole l2 at an angle to the plane of the upper and lower surfaces of said platform sole, i. e., to the maior plane of said sole preferably at an angle of 45, with the stitching running through the platform sole from the edge of the latter at the upper surfe ce of the platform sole to the line indicated at Mib where the stitching is disposed inwardly of the peripheral edge of the platform sole and inwardly of the terminal edge of the lasting allowance 20 of the upper.
  • the upper l includes an integral portion 28 which provides an edge cover for the platform sole l2 said platform sole covering portion 25 extending completely around the shoe.
  • an outsole 28 is applied and secured in position adhesively or in any other suitable way and as illustrated in Fig. 4 in respect to the stvle of shoe illustrated a heel 3D is attached. Thereafter the shoe may be nished in the usual Way.
  • a sock lining may be inserted within the shoe
  • the upper i9 includes a portion 32 at the heel part of the shoe which is folded over and adhesively secured to the upper surface of the platform sole I 2 to provide a finished appearance at the open heel part of the shoe when the latter as illustrated in Fig.
  • the shoe 4 is of the open heel type, It will be understood, however, that the present invention is notlimited to shoes of this style but may be utilized generally in the manufacture of shoes, those which are closed at the heel as well as in all other styles of shoes. Further, it will be understood that the shoe canbe of any style in respect to the heel thereof, for example, the shoe may be provided with a heel of the wedge type, or with a high heel, or with any other type of heel; or said shoe may be of the type having a at bottom formed in any well known way as for example, a wedge which includes a heel having a shank part extending to the ball line of the shoe, or the shoe may be made without a heel as in the case of a shoe in which the outsole and platform sole are substantially flat throughout the length of the shoe.
  • the method of making shoes which comprises placing a sole on the bottom of the last and lasting an upper to said sole with a portion of the upper covering the peripheral edge of said sole and with the lasting allowance of the upper secured to the marginal edge portion of said sole at the lower surface thereof, and stitching the upper and said sole together by a line of stitching running through said edge covering portion of said upper, through said sole and through the lasting allowance of the upper in a plane inclined to the bottom of the shoe from a line adjacent the upper surface of said sole externally of said upper to a line located inwardly of the peripheral edge of the shoe bottom.
  • a platform sole an upper having an integral portion extending over and covering the peripheral edge of said sole and terminating in a portion overlying the marginal edge portion of said sole at the bottom thereof, and a line of stitching running through said peripheral edge covering portion of said upper adjacent the upper surface of said sole penetrating said sole through said peripheral edge thereof and running through said overlying portion of the upper below said sole, said stitching penetrating through said parts in a plane inclined to the bottom of the shoe from a line above the bottom of the shoe and externally of said upper, and adjacent the upper surfaceof said sole, to a line located inwardly of the peripheral edge of the shoe bottom, and an outer sole secured to said first mentioned sole and to said overlying portion of the upper by said line of stitching.

Description

D. E. I EvlN 2,500,613 sHoE wITH INCLINED EDGESTITCHING AND METHOD oF MAKING THE SAME Flled oct 1, 194e March 14, 1950 I.. Y 1 l..
rlllfflllllllllllllllll//IHA Patented Mar. 14, 1950 SHOE WITH INCLINED EDGE-STITCHING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME David E. Levin, Brooklyn, Y., assignor to Evins, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application October 1, 1946, Serial No. '100,556r
(Cl. {i6-19) 2 Claims.y 1 This invention relates to shoes and to a method of making them. More particularly, the present invention relates to shoes of the type which are provided with platform or middle soles and an edge cover for the latter.
One object of the present invention is to improve the fit and shape-retaining qualities of shoes of the above mentioned type.
Another object of the invention is to eliminate, the operation of stitching a platform cover and insole to the shoe upper in manufacturing a shoev of the above indicated type.
A further object is to provide a platform shoe in which the edge cover for the platform sole is an integral part of the shoe upper.
In accordance with one well known method of manufacturing shoes provided with platform soles, the upper is cut to the proper size and shape and is thereafter stitched to an insole and to a platform cover to form an assembly in which a last is inserted for the operation of applying the platform sole, the outer sole and various other parts of the shoe. A shoe constructed in this manner is known as a California or slip-lasted shoe. One of the disadvantages of a slip-lasted shoe is that it is not well adapted to retain its shape, by reason of the fact that the upper of the shoe is not subjected to the proper treatment which it would receive if the shoe were lasted in accordance with the prior conventional lasting operations. rihis disadvantage is eliminated in accordance with the present invention.
The above and other objects, features and advantages of this invention will be fully understood from the following description considered in connection With the accompanying illustrative drawings.
In the drawings:
Fig. 1 is a perspective View illustrating the operation of lasting the upper of the shoe and preliminarily securing the lasting allowance of the upper to the platform sole;
Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the upper and platform sole after said upper and platform sole are permanently secured together;
Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line 3--3 of Fig. 2;
Fig. 4 is a side view of a shoe made in accordance with the present invention;
Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 showing another form of the invention.
In accordance with the present invention the upper I0 is lasted in the usual Way on a last L as indicated in Fig. 1. More particularly, the platform sole I2 is placed on the bottom of the last from the last and the assembly is stitched together .by a line of through stitching i6. Also, the stitch.
ingr operation may be carried out without removing the last. Said line of stitching may extend completely around the shoe but as here shown preferably extends from a point i3 near the heel portion of the assembly forwardly around the tip of the shoe to a point 28 at the other side of the shoe near the heel portion of the assembly. As illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4 the line of stitching I6 is run through the platform sole I2 and penetrates the upper i0 along two lines which are f spaced vertically from each other as well as laterally of each other as indicated at 16a and iSb. The line ia at which the stitching penetrates the upper is located substantially at the' crease line of the shoe. while the line Ito at which the stitching penetrates the lasting allowance 20 of the upper at the bottom of the shoe is disposed between the inner or terminal edge of the lasting' allowance or marginal edge portion of the upper and the outer peripheral edge of the shoe. In
' other words. the stitching is directed through the upper and through the platform sole l2 at an angle to the plane of the upper and lower surfaces of said platform sole, i. e., to the maior plane of said sole preferably at an angle of 45, with the stitching running through the platform sole from the edge of the latter at the upper surfe ce of the platform sole to the line indicated at Mib where the stitching is disposed inwardly of the peripheral edge of the platform sole and inwardly of the terminal edge of the lasting allowance 20 of the upper. It will be observed that the upper l!) includes an integral portion 28 which provides an edge cover for the platform sole l2 said platform sole covering portion 25 extending completely around the shoe.
After the stitching operation an outsole 28 is applied and secured in position adhesively or in any other suitable way and as illustrated in Fig. 4 in respect to the stvle of shoe illustrated a heel 3D is attached. Thereafter the shoe may be nished in the usual Way. It will be understood that a sock lining may be inserted within the shoe As indicated in Fig. 1, the upper i9 includes a portion 32 at the heel part of the shoe which is folded over and adhesively secured to the upper surface of the platform sole I 2 to provide a finished appearance at the open heel part of the shoe when the latter as illustrated in Fig. 4 is of the open heel type, It will be understood, however, that the present invention is notlimited to shoes of this style but may be utilized generally in the manufacture of shoes, those which are closed at the heel as well as in all other styles of shoes. Further, it will be understood that the shoe canbe of any style in respect to the heel thereof, for example, the shoe may be provided with a heel of the wedge type, or with a high heel, or with any other type of heel; or said shoe may be of the type having a at bottom formed in any well known way as for example, a wedge which includes a heel having a shank part extending to the ball line of the shoe, or the shoe may be made without a heel as in the case of a shoe in which the outsole and platform sole are substantially flat throughout the length of the shoe. Also it will be understood that it is within the scope of the present invention to utilize a thin middle sole, similar to an insole, instead of the comparatively thick platform sole l2, particularly in the form of the invention illustrated in Fig. 5 wherein the stitchi ing i6 runs through the outsole as well as through theplatform sole.
While I have shown and described the pref ferred embodiment of my invention, it will be understood that the latter may be embodied i otherwise than as herein illustrated and de- 1 scribed and that various changes in the details of construction, in the arrangement of parts and in the method may be made without departing from the underlying idea or principles of the invention within the scope of the appended claims. Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to obtain by Letters Patent is:
l. The method of making shoes which comprises placing a sole on the bottom of the last and lasting an upper to said sole with a portion of the upper covering the peripheral edge of said sole and with the lasting allowance of the upper secured to the marginal edge portion of said sole at the lower surface thereof, and stitching the upper and said sole together by a line of stitching running through said edge covering portion of said upper, through said sole and through the lasting allowance of the upper in a plane inclined to the bottom of the shoe from a line adjacent the upper surface of said sole externally of said upper to a line located inwardly of the peripheral edge of the shoe bottom.
2. In a shoe, a platform sole, an upper having an integral portion extending over and covering the peripheral edge of said sole and terminating in a portion overlying the marginal edge portion of said sole at the bottom thereof, and a line of stitching running through said peripheral edge covering portion of said upper adjacent the upper surface of said sole penetrating said sole through said peripheral edge thereof and running through said overlying portion of the upper below said sole, said stitching penetrating through said parts in a plane inclined to the bottom of the shoe from a line above the bottom of the shoe and externally of said upper, and adjacent the upper surfaceof said sole, to a line located inwardly of the peripheral edge of the shoe bottom, and an outer sole secured to said first mentioned sole and to said overlying portion of the upper by said line of stitching.
. DAVID E. LEVIN..
REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in thele of this patent:
UNITED STATES PATENTS OTHER REFERENCES American Shoemaking, page 18, November 26, 1919.
US700556A 1946-10-01 1946-10-01 Shoe with inclined edge-stitching and method of making the same Expired - Lifetime US2500613A (en)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US248109A (en) * 1881-10-11 Manufacture of boots and shoes
DE634269C (en) * 1935-01-29 1936-08-22 Masch Werke Zu Frankfurt Am Ma Process for connecting the upper and the sole of reversible shoes
US2339726A (en) * 1943-03-11 1944-01-18 United Shoe Machinery Corp Manufacture of platform shoes
US2407224A (en) * 1945-09-06 1946-09-10 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe and method of making the same
US2414105A (en) * 1943-09-22 1947-01-14 Kamborian Manufacture of open-end shoes
US2425420A (en) * 1945-08-25 1947-08-12 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe and method of making the same

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US248109A (en) * 1881-10-11 Manufacture of boots and shoes
DE634269C (en) * 1935-01-29 1936-08-22 Masch Werke Zu Frankfurt Am Ma Process for connecting the upper and the sole of reversible shoes
US2339726A (en) * 1943-03-11 1944-01-18 United Shoe Machinery Corp Manufacture of platform shoes
US2414105A (en) * 1943-09-22 1947-01-14 Kamborian Manufacture of open-end shoes
US2425420A (en) * 1945-08-25 1947-08-12 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe and method of making the same
US2407224A (en) * 1945-09-06 1946-09-10 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe and method of making the same

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