US2459489A

US2459489A - Shoulder pad

Info

Publication number: US2459489A
Application number: US765789A
Authority: US
Inventors: Bloom Samuel
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1946-08-07
Filing date: 1947-08-02
Publication date: 1949-01-18
Anticipated expiration: 1966-01-18

Description

S. BLOOM SHOULDER PAD Jan. 18, 1949.

2 Sheets-Sheet Jl Original Fileddmgfi'l'y1946 Jan. 18, 1949. s BLOOM 2,459,489

SHOULDER PAD Original Filed .Au 7, .1946 2 Sheats-$heet 2 GJS III/4 7750 Patented Jan. 18, 1949 Griginal application August 7, 1946, Serial No.

,639,000, now Patent No. 2,425,227,, datedAugust 15,, 194.7. Divided and this 2', 1947, Serial Nob-765,789

application August 4 Claims. (01. '2-26s "This invention relates to improved molded,

fitted andshaped shoulder pads for adaptation to garments and particularly women'fs garments,

for imparting garments.

This application is a division of my copending application, Serial No.5689,ll00, filed August 2'7, 1946, now PaltentNo. 12,425;22.'7,granted August 5,1947.

It is the object of the present invention to provide improved sets of molded, fitted and shaped shoulder pads which are fitted to the right and left shoulders .of a personin order to conform to the :body configurations :of the .in- .dividual and which are so shaped as to obtain desired contour lines to the desirable shoulder outlinesrln accordance with "different styles and xvogruesy It is the purpose ,of :thecin-vention to provide suohshoulderzpads fitted andgraded to individual persons for both right and left shoulders, which maintain their permanence after their fabrica-' tion. One person may have several setsof these shoulder pads for difierentdresses, coats or costumes, in, dependence upon the desiredstyle of garment sought to .be fashioned or created for the individual wearer.

It is a further :objectof the invention to provide a shoulder pad whichgconforms to the; body frame of the individual and which is of light and neat-construction so that the same :can be womxwith comfort at all times; The shoulder pad in accordance with the invention may be patterned from standard dorms, ,or maybe .distinctively patterned from the individual body frame so that any idiosyncrasies characterizing the individual at the clavicle, scapula and :acromion may begrzefiected in the ultimate shape of the finished shoulder pad. Thus the collarbone or clavicle forming the anterior portion of the shoulder girdle, the scapula orshqulderqblade forming the posterior portion of the shoulder girdle, and the acromion .formiue the summit of the shoulder, may contributeto the distinctive shaping of the shoulder pad in order to enable one to obtain anpindividually'fitted set conforming to the individuals body contours, which is particularly desirable whensuch present a sub,-

stantial departure from those of a standard model.

Itis a further objectyorthe invention to pro- .s ir hw j i:

:2, vide a shoulder padembodying a light fabric base and molded felt top corresponding to any desired outline, embodying therebetween a filler of cotton wadding which ismaintain'ed in fixed relation between the :bottom and top sothat once the unit is fitted to theshoulder, the same retainsits givenloontours :over long periods of time without sagging or disintegration. Theshoulder pad in accordance with the present invention is designed to blend intonthelines ofkthe garment in 01 118171170 nen-derfits presence invisible and-may,

desired, be :detadhably connected .to the garment so that the same may beiusedinterchangeably in different suits, dresses, coats or the like.

Other objects and purposes willappear from the detailed description of the invention :tollowing hereinafter, taken in aconiunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein :Fig. 1 isa {perspective view of zthe ifltted shoulder pad in accordance with the present invention, adapted for incorporation into any "desired :ga-rment such as a dress-or coat;

Fig. 2 .is a longitudinal, sectional view of the improved shoulder pad in accordance with the invention, along line12,-2 26f Fig. 3;

Fig. 3, is a transverse sectionalview along line 373 Of Fig. 2,;

Fig. ,4 shows the initialstep of molding with clay the desired contour of the shouldenpad which therebetween aiibrous filler or cotton weddin to form the internal nadding for a pair of the shoulder pads;

7 shows a pairof the filler pads of lenticular cross-section at the conclusion of itsfilling and processing, .cut across one diagonal to form the two pads, ,one for each shoulderpad;

Fig. 8 shows the two filler pads with a wedge removed therefrom in order to permit the concave shaping of the pad to the convexity of the shoulderwhile imparting a minimum thickness to the pad at the edgesthereof as well as a surface of smooth convexity on the u persurface Fig. 9 is a bottom view of the fabric portion of the pad with the filler sewn thereto along lines of stitching spaced from its lateral edges;

Fig. 10 shows the fitting of the shoulder pad following the combination by basting of the padded fabric base with the molded felt top and prior to the trimming of the latter; and

Fig. 11 shows the addition of the wide bands to the lateral edges of the top of the shoulder pad to enable the attainment of a finished and smooth edge for the shoulder pad preparatory to the finishing sewing and cutting operations to obtain the finished shoulder pad shown in Figs. 1 to 3.

The drawings illustrate the complete shoulder pad in accordance with the present invention, as well as several stages in the course of its fabrication. Bearing in mind that the ultimate objective of the invention is to provide an individually tailored and fitted set of shoulder pads which are designed primarily for high grad-e ladies garments, it may readily be seen that the manipulative steps which are practiced in the production of this improved set of shoulder pads are painstaking and to some degree costly but all are contributory to the ultimate objective of obtaining a shoulder pad which has never been available heretofore.

The pad in accordance with the instant invention is illustrated in Figs. 1 to 3 in its finished state. The same consists essentially of a soft and light fabricbase II which may be of any desired textile material such as silk, rayon, cotton or any other known lining materials, which is designed to conform accurately to the shoulderblade, collarbone and summit of the shoulder of the individual along the lateral edges I3 and I? which converge to the apex I adjacent to the neck line of the individual and which are spanned by the base line I4 between the edges I3 and II. The desired external outline for the shoulder pad is attained by a sculptured and molded sheet In of felt, buckram, flannel or suede, which corresponds in outline to the contours sought to be obtained with the shoulder pads, that is, the pad may incline upwardly, downwardly, or may lie horizontally, or may combine different surface inclinations and may terminate in any desired curvature at the base line I 4 to attain different-desired silhouette effects. A filling of cotton wadding I8, enclosed within a shell of sheet cotton felting I9, which is sewn to the bottom II, is shaped in such a manner as, for example, by slitting a wedge at 20, to provide an adequate filling of the space between the bottom II and top I0 of the shoulder pad while at the same time enabling the same to be eased to the varying contours of the shoulder. The sewing of the filler shell I9 to the base II is shown by means of stitching 2| which is followed by the sewing of the molded and'shaped felt III to the base by stitches 22 on the sides, and 28 on the end. Wide binding bands I2 are sewed to the lateral edges of the top II] which preferably may be executed at the same time that the top I0 is sewed to the base II by means of stitches 22. The protruding edges of the top ID are trimmed to follow closely the stitching 22 either before or after the sewing of the latter. A series of parallel stitchings along the binding bands serves to ornament the wide bands and the last lines of stitching 24 also extend through the edges of the base I I to integrate the complete assembly in order to give a clean and thin edge to the 4 lateral boundaries of the shoulder pad, which edges, both of the sides I3 and II, as well as the base edge I4 may be trimmed off with pinking shears in order to impart a more pleasing appearance to the final product (shown in Figs. 1 to 3), as well as to enhance the smooth blending of the edges of the shoulder pad with the garment.

I have found the following procedure most desirable in the fabrication of the improved shoulder pad described above:

Fig. 4 shows the initial stage in the production of an individually tailored set of shoulder pads in accordance with the present invention. In this figure, a conventional clothes model M is employed, but it is understood that a human form may be used as well when a set of individually sculptured shoulder pads is to be attained. If

models are used, several of these are necessary steam grid or like device.

to obtain different sizes and grades corresponding to different sizes of human forms. The desired contour of the shoulder pad is sculptured on the model in clay, indicated at C. This, of course, will be varied according to the different vogue and style effects which are sought to be accentuated by the specific shoulder pads. The clay casts of the shoulder pads are permitted to harden, whereupon they are used for the purpose of molding forms therefrom which are employed repeatedly for the fitting and sculpturing of the shoulder. pads thereafter. Thus, it is a simple matter to make a counterpart of the clay model C in wood and it is even simpler to make the same in metal by conventional metal casting methods. In addition to the actual shoulder pad counterpart, a replica of the top of the shoulder pad is made by forming two interfitting elements, one of which is preferably formed as a gas heated mold which is used for the molding of the sized felt top of the shoulder pad. It is also useful to form a molded replica of the shoulder outlines in order to provide a base for fitting the bottom of the shoulder pad, particularly so if the model is fragile or if the model is the human body.

The upper part of the shoulder pad I0 is formed from a sheet of moldable felt material of the type used in the manufacture of hats. However, in some instances flannel, buckram, suede, or other moldable cloth materials may be used, and the term felt herein should be construed to cover all of these materials. The same is first treated by dipping the sheet in a sizing solution, the concentration of which may be varied in dependence upon the particular felt employed, and may be controlled by testing with the sizing hydrometer. Following the thorough soaking of the felt material in the sizing solution, it is wrung thoroughly and allowed to dry for about twenty-four hours, whereupon the same becomes hard and brittle, but is subject to softening by the application of live steam thereto when the same is placed on a In the event that a wooden mold is used, a suitable piece of the felt, of substantially triangular contour, is applied to the wooden mold and is pulled into shape and thereafter the same may be tied with blocking cords until the felt is made to correspond to the shape of the wooden model. A steam iron may be employed to make the felt conform closely to the block and to impart a permanent set thereto. Thereafter the pressed felt is allowed to dry on the mold until the same is cool, so that the resultant product constitutes the top of the mold III as generally shown in Fig. 10 of larger area than aatof iso the finished product because tli's'ame requires As an alternative to the us if a woo'deri mold andthe shapinguof the'isized; felt thereto, metal dies may be employed, preferably of aluminum, as in Fig. 5, and onjeff or both of the cooperatingrfrembers' 3i may be gasheated in order to shapethe sheet? by heat and "pressure; and "with the aido'f steam to bring 'it'in c'onformity with therefocperatingiparts;of the mold to impart a permanent set thereto.

Having shaped the up' art of theshoulde'r pai'd lll; thefittin'gofthe o'ttoiii of the pad is undertaken with the use of suitable patterns which are of substantially triangular outline. Suitable segments of fabric are cut out according to these patterns, depending upon the size and style of the ultimate desired pad. These paper patterns include perforated lines to indicate the lines of stitching whereat the filling material is to be attached to the fabric base in a manner well known to the tailoring and dressmaking arts. The triangular fabric bottom of the shoulder pad is shown generally in Fig. 9 having an apex with the lateral sides 35 and the base line 31, with the stitching lines 2| parallel to the lateral edges which secure the filling shell thereto and which lines are marked in the cutting of the patterns.

Fig. 6 shows in plan two square sheets of cotton felting I9 between which are adapted to be sandwiched a mass of cotton wadding I8 which is of maximum thickness at the center of this square and which tapers smoothly to the perimeter thereof in order to impart a lenticular or double convex cross-section to the filler pad. Thereafter a series of loose stitches 29 are basted through the covering sheets I9 and enclosed mass of wadding I8, as shown generally in Fig. 7, to maintain the filler mass in the form of an integrated filler shell with maximum thickness at its center and of a thickness corresponding to the thickness of the loose cotton sheets of felting 19 at the edges. The square is subsequently out along one of its diagonals 31 to form two filler sections, one for each of the pair of shoulder pads. Thereafter a wedge of the wadding, including one face of the sheeting I 9 is cut out medially thereof at the base 3'! and extending towards the apex 35, and this filler unit is sewed to the fabric bottom I I of the shoulder pads along the stitches 2| with the wedge adjacent to the fabric so that the same may be shaped concavely to conform to the convexity of the shoulder while the opposite face of the filler is of smooth configuration to fill out fully the convexity of the upper part of the shoulder pad.

The fabric bottom II having the filler unit sewed thereto, is thereafter applied to the shoulder mold and is manipulated to conform thereto by drawing and shaping the wadding, upon which is superposed the prepared molded felt as described above and as shown in Fig. 10. When the pads have assumed the desired shape, the fabric bottom and the molded top are basted together, as shown in Fig. 10.

The finishing bands I2, of approximately 2" width, which have previously been stitched on a multiple needle machine, are then applied to each lateral edge of the top of the shoulder pad by means of basting stitches 42 in order to obtain a precision fit thereof onto the edges of the shoulder pad. With the bands I2 sewed in place, it is possible to trim off the excess edges of the molded felt material I0 protruding beyond and below the inner boundaries of the bands, leaving an edging of the feltfor stitching tothe bands: The partially assembled pad is then takento the sewingmachine and the bands are stitched as bastedalong the lineof threads .22." Also the outer bas'e' edge 14, holding the soft'shirredmaterial, as well as the molded'outer surface; are thenstitched together by the row of StitchingZBi after any excess felt'is removed'fromthelopen end of the filler pad, which is evidencedin the preliminary fitting, of thepad when the parts are. partially basted together. I i

The above operations are followed'by atrimfiling of 'the"ba'nds l2 to bring them into conformity with the patterned cut of the fabric bottom of the shoulder pad whereafter a line of stitching 24 serves to integrate the outer margins of the trimming bands l2 with the lateral edges of the bottom II. These operations are followed by a pinking of the lateral edges at [3 and I1, as well as the base at id to impart a finished appearance to the shoulder pads. A stiff binding thread may be applied to the edge M if desired in lieu of or in addition to the pinked edge.

A final fitting of the pad to the model shoulder may be employed to impart the finished set to the shoulder pad, which may be aided by the use of a steaming iron.

If desired, snap fasteners or the like may be applied to the apex and the lateral edges of the shoulder pad designed for cooperation with suitable fasteners in the garment to render the shoulder pads readily attachable and detachable relative to the garment, as is well known in the art.

While the preferred embodiment of the invention contemplates a bottom of light fabric, it is perfectly feasible to use a bottom of heavy material together with the moldable top, particularly in the case of heavy or winter garments. Thus the bottom may also be formed of felt, flannel, buckram or suede cloth and may be the same or different from the molded material forming the top of the shoulder pad, I

While I have described my invention as embodied in a specific form and as operating in a specific manner for purpose of illustration, it should be understood that I do not limit my invention thereto, since various modifications will suggest themselves to those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of my invention, the scope of which is set forth in the annexed claims.

I claim:

1. A molded shoulder pad composed of a substantially triangular flexible fabric bottom fitted to the wearers shoulder with the apex of the triangle at the neck line, an overlying molded felt top shaped to the desired contour and an intermediate filling of wad-ding sewn to said fabric base with shirring at the side opposite said apex, said filling being of increasing thickness from the edges adjoinin the apex of the pad to the baseof said pad with a wedge cut from the lower face thereof extending from said base towards the apex to permit the bottom of the pad to assume a concavity conforming to the convexity of the shoulder while the top may assume a convexity conforming to that of the molded felt top, and lines of stitching joining the felt top to the fabric base along the three sides thereof.

2. A molded shoulder pad as set forth in claim 1, provided with trimming bands sewn to the two lateral sides of the molded felt top adjoining the apex and overlying the lateral edges of the fabric base.

3. A molded shoulder pad as set forth in claim 1, provided with trimming bands sewn to the two lateral sides of the molded felt top adjoining the apex and overlying the lateral edges of the fabric base, lines of stitching joining the outermost edges of said trimming bands and fabric base and pinked edges therebeyond.

4. A molded shoulder pad as set forth in claim 10 1, wherein at least the lateral sides of the shoulder pad beyond the stitching are pinked.

SAMUEL BLOOM.

8 REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,170,199 Hawkins et a1 Aug. 22, 1939 2,172,499 Chassaing- Sept. 12, 1939 2,424,482 Mechur et a1 July 22, 1947 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date Great Britain Aug. 24, 1895