US236170A

US236170A - Lorenzo h

Info

Publication number: US236170A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1881-01-04
Anticipated expiration: 1898-01-04

Description

(No Model.) L. H MANSFIELD.

' Boot and Shoe.

No.236,n0. Patented Jan. 4,1881.

m STATES PATENT OFFICE.

LORENZO H. MANSFIELD, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR OF TWO-THIRDS TO WILLIAM Q. KERRIGAN AND CHARLES R. LYNCH, OF SAME PLACE.

BOOT ANDSHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 236,170, dated January-4, 1881. Application filed June 3, 1880. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Beit known that I, LORENZO H. MANSFIELD, of Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Boots and Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

. The object 1 have in View is to produce a machine-sewed double-sole turn boot or shoe which can be made cheaply and by the maro chinery already in use for manufacturing the ordinary single-sole turn-shoes, and will be very strong and durable, and in which the stitches that secure the upper cannot be exposed by drawing back upon the upper, and

the inner sole can be finished flat and smooth on its upper surface without injury to the stitches that secure the upper.

My invention therein consists, principally, in a turn boot or shoe wherein the outer sole is secured to a welt-extension on the inner sole and the upper is secured to the inner sole by stitches which pass laterally into an inclined stitch-channel, so that the inner sole can be finished flat andsmooth on its upper surface within the boot or shoe, makinga neat job, and leaving no ridge to hurt the feet; second, in constructing the inner sole with the we t-extension and the inclined stitch-channel bt ore mentioned, and with a stitch-groove sunken below the surface of the welt-extension, into which the upper is drawn bythe stitches that secure it, so that those stitches cannot be exposed by stretching the upper; and, further, in the combination of the prin- 3 5 cipal parts of my double-sole turn boot or shoe, all as more fully hereinafter explained, and pointed out by the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof, Figure 1 is a cross-section of the combined inner sole and welt before being crimped; Fig. 2, a cross-section of the inner sole and welt and the upper after the upper has been sewed to the inner sole on a Goodyear turn-machine; Fig. 3, a cross section, showing the shoe turned, the inner sole jacked, and the outer sole sewed to the welt-extension of the inner sole; and Fig. 4, a front elevation of the knife used in the channeling-machine for cutting the welt-extension and the sunken 5o stitch-groove on the inner sole.

Like letters denote corresponding parts in all the figures of the drawings.

A is the inner sole, B the upper, and O the outer sole, of the boot or shoe.

The inner sole, after being out to the proper shape, is operated upon by a channeling-machine, which cuts the usual inner stitch-channel, a, in the upper surface of the inner sole. It also cuts the welt-extension b on the edge of the inner sole, which welt-extension is not so thick as the inner sole, and extends far enough beyond the outer stitch-groove, c, to form a welt to which the outer sole, 0, can be sewed. The outer stitch-groove, c, is also out by the channeling-machine, and is sunken below the surface of the welt-extension b. In ,order to cut the welt extension b and sunken stitchgroove 0, it is necessary to provide the channeling-machine with the knife D,(shown in Fig.

4,) which has a straight horizontal edge, d, for cutting the welt-extension, and a downwardlyextending angular point, 66, for cutting the sunken stitch-groove. After the inner sole has been out, as described, its outer edge to the bottom of the groove 0 is set or turned down 7 on a crimping-machine to the position shown in Fig. 2. The inner sole is then secured, with its channeled side outward, to a shoemakers last. The upper is then stretched over the last, wrong side out, and its edges are drawn over the inner sole and secured atintervals by small nails. The upper is now sewed to the inner sole on a Goodyear turn-machine by lateral stitches e, which pass from the outer side, through the upper, into the bottom of the stitch-groove c, and inwardly into the inclined stitch-channel a, drawing the upper close down into the bottom of the sunken stitch-groove 0. After this sewing is completed the parts appear about as shown in Fig. 2. The last is go then taken out of the shoe, which is then turned right side out. It is then put on a last of dif-' ferent form from the first last, and, by hammering and rolling the edge of the inner sole,

is flattened out straight, so as to close the in- 9 5 ner stitch-channel and bring the welt-extension into a horizontal position, as shown in Fig. 3. After being thus jacked the stitches which secure the upper are entirely hidden,

and they cannot be exposed to view by draw= 10o ing back on the upper from the edge of the shoe.

The upper surface of the inner sole, within the boot or shoe, is also flat and smooth, without any ridges or bunches to hurt the feet or any indication of the stitches, which are hidden in the bottom of the inclined stitch-channel a. This construction also enables me to use a very heavy thread for the iii-seam withoutmaking a clumsy finish or leaving any ridge or bunch.

The outer sole, 0, out to proper shape, is secured to the inner sole by two or three nails, and is then sewed to the welt-extension b by vertical stitches f, preferably on a Goodyear stitching-machine. The boot or shoe is then finished in the usual manner.

The boots and shoes made according to my invention are as pliable and as easy on the feet as the hand-sewed boots and shoes, and when worn out on the soles can be resoled by sewing, which is not the case with the machine-sewed boots and shoes now on the market.

hat I claim as my invention is-- 1. In a double-sole machine-sewed turn boot or shoe, the inner sole, A, having inclined inner stitch-channel, a, welt-extension b, and outer stitch-groove, 0, sunken below the surface of the welt-extension, substantially as described and shown, for the purpose set forth.

2. A double-sole machine-sewed turn boot or shoe wherein are combined the inner sole, A, having inclined stitch-channel a, welt-extension 1), and sunken stitch-groove c, the upper B, secured to the inner solo by stitches e, passing laterally into the inclined stitch-channel and drawing the upper down into the bottom of the sunken stitch-groove below the outer surface of the welt, and the outer sole, 0, secured to the welt-extension of the inner sole, substantially as described and shown.

LORENZO H, MANSFIELD.

Witnesses:

W it. Q. KERRIGAN, CI-IAs. R. LYNCH.