US2347692A - Necktie and method of making same - Google Patents

Necktie and method of making same Download PDF

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Publication number
US2347692A
US2347692A US222530A US22253038A US2347692A US 2347692 A US2347692 A US 2347692A US 222530 A US222530 A US 222530A US 22253038 A US22253038 A US 22253038A US 2347692 A US2347692 A US 2347692A
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necktie
casing
thread
lining
blank
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US222530A
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Kleinmann Max
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DIMPLE TIE Corp
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DIMPLE TIE CORP
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D25/00Neckties
    • A41D25/001Making neckties

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  • This invention relates generally to neckties and more particularly to neckties which when knotted and worn are caused to crease or drape in a predetermined: manner, and a novel method for the: manufacture thereof.
  • a necktie of the four-in-hand or other type of necktie which is knotted or otherwise constricted when worn, and which when so worn causes itself to form a drape, dimple or become longitudinally corrugated in a predetermined position' with relation to the longitudinal side edges thereof.
  • An object herein is the provision of a necktie heaving. a self-draping feature whose structure will drape with equal. facility whenever the necktie is longitudinally stressed at any point along a predetermined area thereof, the drape being retained by a constriction about the tie caused for example by a-knot therein.
  • Another object of this invention is the provision of a self-draping necktie. which is simply constructed and adapted for quantity production at relatively low cost.
  • the present invention discloses the construction of a self-draping necktie which has no parts which. may become deleteriously affected by laundering, dry cleaning, pressing or Wear.
  • An. advantage of the present structure lies in the factv that no skill need. be acquired and no new dressing or tying method need be learned or used by the wearer because the ordinary tying formed appearance but appears to have a natural drape suchas results when a cravat is skillfully and carefully tied. After the tie is untied and removed, the tie resumes its normal. relatively flat appearance thereby making pressing, shipby means of a single stitching operation yet which integrates the various component parts of the necktie along two spaced lines.
  • Another object herein is the provision of a necktie which is perfectly balanced in structure operation as performed under the so thatthe necktie'has no tendency to tie unevenly or to twist out of shape as a result of changes in climatic conditions when the necktie is on display or hung up. between wearings.
  • the present invention provides for a novel necktie having a selfdraping feature. and having built-in structure which keeps the tie in a permanently balanced and planar condition,. and a novel method of manufacturing the same which involves practically no increase in costs over methods heretofore employed producing a greatly inferior product.
  • Figure 1 is a view in prospectiveshowing a necktie as worn and embodying the present invention.
  • the necktie just below the knot thereof presents a-centrally disposed depression bordered on either side by a corresponding elevation or bulge.
  • Figure. 2 is a fragmentary view of the first embodiment of this invention, with the necktie inside out and as looking at the rear of the lining.
  • Figure 3. is an enlarged transverse sectional view as seen from the plane 3-3 on Figure 1 showing only the front portion of the tie body.
  • Figure 4 is an enlarged transverse sectional view showing the front half of the necktie of the first embodiment of the invention as the same would appear from the plane 4-4 on Figure 8 if the necktie were longitudinally stressed.
  • Figure 5 is an enlarged transverse sectional view as seen from the plane 5-5 on Figure 8.
  • Figure 6 is a plan view of the tie body, lining, and stitching. as the same would appear if viewed from the rear of Figure2.
  • Figure 7- is a fragmentary view showing the position of the parts at the time of the stitching improved method of manufacture disclosed herein.
  • Figure 8 is a plan view of a finished necktie Figure is a fragmentary rear elevational view of the embodiment illustrated in Figure 9.
  • Figure 11 is a fragmentary "front elevational view of the embodiment illustrated in Figure 9 having concealed longitudinal stitchesbut shows the necktie in a stressed condition.
  • Figure 12 is a fragmentary side elevational view as seen from the left side of Figure 11'but showing exposed longitudinal stitches.
  • Figure 13 is a fragmentary elevational view of the neck band portion of a necktie illustrating a third embodiment of-the invention;'that is to say, as applied to a so-called seven-fold neckties.
  • the material is folded and is shown in an inside-out position which it occupies when the same is stitched in' accordance with'the method set forth herein.
  • Figure 14 shows a view' taken similarly to Figure 13 with a portion of the necktie material unfolded, showing the next step of thmethod.
  • Figure 15 is a view similar to Figure 14 showing the next succeeding steps in' the method. I
  • Figure 16 is a view taken similarly to Figure 15 showingthe nextsucceeding step in the method of manufacture with the'various folds readjusted. At this stage the necktie is still insideout.
  • Figure 17 is a view similar to Figure '16 showing the next step in construction.
  • the necktie has been turned right-side-out and is viewed from the'rear thereof.
  • Figure 18' is a fragmentary view showing the completed necktie from a direction corresponding to therear of Figure 17. In this figure the lower portion of the front and larger wing of the necktie is shown.
  • a necktie indicated generally by numeral 20 includes a frontal portion 2
  • the lining blank 24 isjpreferably of such width as to conform to the shape of the necktie casing 25 in which it is enclosed in the completed necktie.
  • the blank 24 tapers outwardly at its longitudinal edges 21 and'28, towards its lower wider end portion 29 and also tapers; outwardly towards its upper narrow end portion 26;
  • the liningblank 24 is composed of any suit ably resilient m'aterial', preferably however, of woolen cloth cut onl hebias (indicated at numeral. 30) as is well known in'the art to which the present invention pertains.
  • the casing 25 of the ,necktie 20 in its developed or blank form may be the usual blank as presently employedin the art. Its general configuration may be seen'in Figures. 6, 7 and 8. Note that in Figure 6 the casing 25 has been folded along its own central longitudinal axis 50, which fold appears along the left hand side of Figure 6 and the right hand side of Figure 2.
  • the method of making the first embodiment 24 is preferably placed upon a fiat surface
  • the necktie casing 25 is folded along its axis 59 with the wrong or rear side outermost.
  • the longitudinal free edges 52 and 53 are preferably aligned so that they are coterminus.
  • the lining blank 24 and the portions of the casing 25 adjacent the edges 52 and 53 are folded downwardly or rearwardly as viewed in Figure 2, about the axis 5
  • the casing 25 and the lining blank 24 are then preferably turned so that the axis 50 occurs to the left, the two parts, casing and lining blank, now present the appearance shown in Figure '7.
  • is secured to both the casing edges and the lining blank at the axis 5
  • is preferably a relatively inelastic strand, flexible element, cord, or sewing thread and it is secured at the point 32 in any suitable manner as for example by an adhesive, cemented tab,'knot in the thread, or by a plurality of stitches thereat.
  • the needle in being passed downwardly or rearwardly as being viewed in that figure, passes first the two edges 52 and 53, thence through the folded lining blank 24, which is in two thicknesses at that point, thence through two more layers of the casing.
  • the needle on its upward orforward path reverses this order of penetration.
  • is preferably a simple running stitch and is made loosely so that after the desired number of stitches have been made, that is a number of stitches which will attach the tie casing to the lining throughout substantially the length of the lining, the fold occurring at the right hand edge of Figure '7 may be opened then the tie casing 25 and the lining blank 24 will appear as seen in Figure 6.
  • will take on the pattern seen in Figure 6 and slack therein is taken up or added until this thread configuration occurs when the lining is in a planar condition, after which the lower end of the thread 3
  • is brought forwardly through the two layers of the casing and through the blank 24 at a point 33 which is located on an imaginary longitudinal axis or line along which it is desired that the lining and the tie will form'a fold or edge of a drape.
  • is continued toward the central axis 5
  • the portion of the thread exposed on the front of the blank 24 forms a transversely disposed loop 35.
  • continues downwardly parallel and spaced from the axis 5
  • is brought across the front of the blank 24 and is passed rearwardly and downwardly of the necktie through the blank and the casing at a point 45 preferably situated on the same longitudinal axis as point 33.
  • the thread is then continued down the rear surface parallel and spaced from the longitudinal central axis 5
  • is repeated in the manner similar to that just described resulting in a plurality of loops 35 and longitudinally disposed thread portions 31 and 41.
  • is secured at the point 33 as has been described herein.
  • the stitches or other securing means at points 32 and 38 constitute anchors and when the blank 24 together with the casing is stressed the lengthening of the thread portions 31 and 41 causes a contraction of the loops and a consequent movement toward each other of the thread portions 31 and 41.
  • is relatively inelastic, and is preferably strong, light in weight, and smooth on the outer surface thereof so that it may readily slip through the portions of the casing 25 and the lining blank 24 through which it passes.
  • the loops 35 prevent the lining blank portions 39 from moving forwardly (as viewed in Figure 6), so that the result of the contraction of the loops 35 is to cause the portions 39 to gather or pucker rearwardly of the blank 24 and thereby form a centrally longitudinally disposed groove, corrugation, orfurrow 4B, for the entire distance between the anchor points 32 and 38, or between other points closer together be tween which a state of stress exists.
  • a feature of the present invention lies in the fact that the draping effect is not limited to any one portion of the necktie, but may be so arranged. that any area normally likely to be disposed in or adjacent to the knot may be caused to drape and remain so draped until the knot is opened and the portions released. This is true regardless of the number of times that the tie may be coiled about itself in the formation of a knot.
  • the larger or front wing of the necktie for-ms a drape but also the smaller or rear wing forms a drape, and the latter drape forms and falls in a position wherein it reinforces, centers, and supports the drape in the larger wing.
  • the casing 25 is folded upon itself along its axis with the wrong side of the material outermost. It is then folded downwardly again along a secondary axis which lies in a position corresponding to the axis 5
  • the single row of running slip stitches is (put in along the'edges 52 and 53' utilizing a thread 31' and the ends .of same are preferably suitably secured to the casing 25', one end being shown secured at point 38.
  • the third embodiment of the invention illustrated in Figures 13 to 18 inclusive is directed to the adaptation of the present invention to a so called seven-fold construction.
  • the seven-fold construction differs from the usual and most common necktie construction in that the longitudinally disposed flaps formed by the edges 52 and 53 (first embodiment) are extended laterally and folded upon themselves to form the flaps 52" and 53" (third embodiment). These flaps 52" and 53 add extra bulk or thickness to'the tie and take the place of the woven bias lining usually utilized.
  • This construction amounts to the substitution of more expensive material (usually silk bias out) for the relatively cheaper lining, and requiring more labor operations results in a more expensive necktie.
  • the seven-fold necktie occupies only a small part of the necktie market but its description in this disclosure indicates that the present construction as an embodiment of the invention may be incorporated in substantially all of the types of neckties now in use. I
  • FIGS 13 to 17 inclusive illustrate fragmentary portions taken from the narrow or neck line part of the tie. The same general proportions and operations are applicable to the entire necktie 20".
  • the necktie casing blank 25? is first folded along the folds A, B, and C.
  • the dot-dash axis line indicates the line along which the central axis of the completed necktie will be formed.
  • the blank will now appear as seen in Figure 14 (but Without the stitching), and as there shown the fold A is raised and bent over upon itself to form the fold D.
  • the whole casing is turned front to back as a unit and the same then appears as shown in Figure 13. I
  • a single row of slip or running stitches is then put in by means of the thread 3
  • the fold D is then opened and when the necktie as a unit is reversed front to back the appearance of Figure 14 is presented.
  • " is adjusted so that all of the layers lie flat when the necktie is unstressed'as heretofore described in connection withthe second embodiment.
  • the ends of the thread may then be secured as has been described in connection with the other embodiments.
  • Loops 35" and longitudinally disposed thread portions 31" and 47" may now be seen.
  • the edge 53 is next bent over the fold E, and the edge 52 is bend over the fold F.
  • the fold B is now unfolded and three new folds G, H, and I are made, it being realized that the fold B isa bight of the portion 2
  • the necktie will now appear as viewed in Figure 16.
  • the necktie is now more or less in the form of a tube or cylinder which is turned right side out as the next step.
  • the necktie will now appear as in Figure 18 or when viewed from the rear as in Figure 17.
  • the longitudinal thread portions 3'! penetrate four layers of the tie casing 25" while the longitudinal thread portions 41" penetrate two layers of the tie casing material.
  • the thread 3! assumes a more rectilinear path of travel thus tightening or contracting the loops 35" which causes a furrow to form in the casing layers disposed between and engaged by the longitudinal thread portions 3'! and 41"; and along the axis 5
  • a corresponding drape forms in the front layer or portion 2
  • the operation of the necktie 20" will be substantially similar to the operation of the two earlier described embodiments.
  • the front portion of the larger wing may be provided with a lining 24".
  • This lining if used is preferably inserted or placed in contact with the casing at the inception of the process and secured simultaneously by the thread 3
  • said lining should be preferably a lining manufactured in accordance with my copending application referred to hereinabove.
  • the lining 24 may thus have a separate furrow formed by thread Mi. The ends of the lining are then attached to the tie casing in such a manner that stretching of the tie will result in a corresponding stretching of the lining and straightening of the thread 4.
  • " may be varied within certain limits but in all practical applications thus far it has been found that the longitudinally disposed thread portions 31, 41; 31', 41; 31", 41", are preferably at least twice as long as the loops 35, 35', 35".
  • the double row of stitches formed by a single stitching operation which is in turn a result of my novel construction and new method of makmg same, advantageously secures the various tie parts together at a plurality of points which results in a stronger and more durable construction. Furthermore this double row of stitches positively maintains the necktie throughout its useful life in an absolutely balanced condition.
  • a very important feature of the present invention which is much more apparent from the actual use of a necktie embodying the same than will appear from a reading of this specification lies in the fact that a necktie constructed in accordance with the invention has less tendency to slip away from the collar about which it is knotted. This results from several reasons amon which are the following. Owing to the fact that both the rear wing and the front wing of the necktie corrugate in such a manner that the corrugations nest within each other when the knot constricts about both of these wings, greater surface friction is provided thereby inhibiting the movement of each of the wings with relation to each other or to state it otherwise the smaller wing will slide through the knot with greater difficulty than is the case in the neckties not embodying the present invention.
  • the method of making a necktie including the steps of: Folding the necktie casing blank along the'longitudinal central axis thereof, wrong side out forming a first fold; substantially aligning the free longitudinal edges of the casing; folding the longitudinal edges upon themselves forming a second fold; stitching through said second fold with a simple running or slip stitch; opening said second fold and adjusting the stitches so that the edges may lie flat; and turning the complete, now tubularly formed casing, right side out thereby opening the first fold.
  • the method of making a necktie including the steps of folding the necktie casing blank along the longitudinal central axis thereof, wrong side out, forming a first fold; substantially aligning the free longitudinal edges of the casing; placing said aligned longitudinal edges upon the central longitudinal axis of the lining blank; folding the longitudinal edges of the casing about the central longitudinal axis of the lining blank forming a second fold thereby also folding the lining blank within the longitudinal edges of the casing; stitching through said second fold with a simple running or slip stitch; opening said second fold and adjusting the stitches so that the casing edges and the lining blank may lie flat; and turning the complete, now tubularly formed casing, right side out thereby opening the first fold.
  • the method of making a necktie including the stepsof: folding the bights of the casing blank along the folds A, B in a wrong side out condition, and C; folding the bight of the casing adjacent the fold A along a fold B; running a single slip stitch through the foldsC and D adjacent the edges of said last mentioned folds and to one side of the longitudinal central axis of the tie when completed; flattening out the fold D; folding the longitudinal free edges of the casing blank upon themselves, forming folds E and F; opening the fold B; and then turning the necktie right side out.
  • a stretchable necktie of the four-in-hand type having stitching disposed in the knot forming area thereof for automatically forming a dimple in the necktie when it is made up into a knot, said dimple extending from within the knot to a point below said knot, said stitching comprising longitudinal rows of loops interconnected by transverse loops, said rows being spaced from each other across the width of said necktie, the longitudinal stitching being located on the back of the necktie and the transverse stitching facing the front of the necktie.
  • a stretchable necktie of the four-in-hand type having stitching disposed in the knot form ing area thereof for automatically forming a dimple in the necktie when it is made up into a knot, said dimple extending from within the knot toa point below said knot, said stitching comprising longitudinal rows of loops interconnected by transverse-loops, said rows being spaced from each'other across the width of said necktie, said spaced rows of loops being formed from a single continuous thread, the longitudinal stitching being located on the back of the necktie and the transverse stitching facing the front of the necktie.
  • a necktie of the four-in-hand type having stitching disposed in the knot forming area thereof for automatically forming a dimple in the necktie when it is made up into a knot, said dimple extending from within the knot to a point below said knot, said stitching comprising longitudinal rows of loops located on the back of the necktie, said rows being spaced from each other across the width of said necktie, and loops transversely arranged with respect to said longitudinal rows and disposed within the necktie casing.

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Description

y 1944- M. KLEINMANN 2,347,692
' NEGKTIE AND. METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Aug. 1,- 1958 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 max KLE/N/VHNN INVENTOR.
BY Maw/J 7M ATTORNEY.
y 1944- M. KLEINMANN 2,347,692"
NECKTIE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Aug. 1, 1958 4 Sheet s-Sheet- 2 INVENTOR.
mm m HN/V I "W/W M.
y 1944- M. KLEINMANN 2,347,692
NECK'I'IE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Aug. 1, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 I INVENTQR.
' ATTORNEY.
y- 1944- M. KLEINMANN 2,347,692
' NECKTIE AND METHOD OF MAKI NG SAME Filed Aug. 1, 1958 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 -Eg.15. Ji 14 15 I .57 m 5 97 J- I W H 5/,
424777157X KLE/N/VF/NN INVENTOR ATTORNEY.
Patented May 2, 1944 UNITED STATES PATENT oFFi'CEQ NECKTIE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Max Kleinmann, New York, .N. Yl, assignor,-by mesne assignments, to Dimple Tie Corporation; New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application Augustl, 1938, Serial No.22a5-30 f 6 Claims.
This invention relates generally to neckties and more particularly to neckties which when knotted and worn are caused to crease or drape in a predetermined: manner, and a novel method for the: manufacture thereof.
The present application includes certain improvements over my Patent No. 2,123,900,. granted July 19, 1938, and over my copending application Ser. No. 196,439,. filed March 1'7, 1938.
Among the objects of the present invention is the provision of a necktie of the four-in-hand or other type of necktie which is knotted or otherwise constricted when worn, and which when so worn causes itself to form a drape, dimple or become longitudinally corrugated in a predetermined position' with relation to the longitudinal side edges thereof.
An object herein is the provision of a necktie heaving. a self-draping feature whose structure will drape with equal. facility whenever the necktie is longitudinally stressed at any point along a predetermined area thereof, the drape being retained by a constriction about the tie caused for example by a-knot therein.
Another object of this inventionis the provision of a self-draping necktie. which is simply constructed and adapted for quantity production at relatively low cost.
The present invention discloses the construction of a self-draping necktie which has no parts which. may become deleteriously affected by laundering, dry cleaning, pressing or Wear.
An. advantage of the present structure lies in the factv that no skill need. be acquired and no new dressing or tying method need be learned or used by the wearer because the ordinary tying formed appearance but appears to have a natural drape suchas results when a cravat is skillfully and carefully tied. After the tie is untied and removed, the tie resumes its normal. relatively flat appearance thereby making pressing, shipby means of a single stitching operation yet which integrates the various component parts of the necktie along two spaced lines.
Another object herein is the provision of a necktie which is perfectly balanced in structure operation as performed under the so thatthe necktie'has no tendency to tie unevenly or to twist out of shape as a result of changes in climatic conditions when the necktie is on display or hung up. between wearings.
Another advantage herein of the double row stitching arrangement in connection with other novel arrangement of the necktie components results in the retaining of the internal longitudinal edges in proper position so that the tie is permanently balanced regardless of cleaning operations and subsequent pressing, As'will be more specifically pointed out below the present invention provides for a novel necktie having a selfdraping feature. and having built-in structure which keeps the tie in a permanently balanced and planar condition,. and a novel method of manufacturing the same which involves practically no increase in costs over methods heretofore employed producing a greatly inferior product.
These objects and further features and advantages will more fully appear in the progress of this disclosure and as pointed out in the appended claims. a
In the drawings, forming a material part of this disclosure, andin which similar reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several. views of each embodiment: 1
Figure 1 is a view in prospectiveshowing a necktie as worn and embodying the present invention; In this view the necktie just below the knot thereofpresents a-centrally disposed depression bordered on either side by a corresponding elevation or bulge.
Figure. 2 is a fragmentary view of the first embodiment of this invention, with the necktie inside out and as looking at the rear of the lining. Figure 3. is an enlarged transverse sectional view as seen from the plane 3-3 onFigure 1 showing only the front portion of the tie body.
Figure 4 is an enlarged transverse sectional view showing the front half of the necktie of the first embodiment of the invention as the same would appear from the plane 4-4 on Figure 8 if the necktie were longitudinally stressed.
Figure 5 is an enlarged transverse sectional view as seen from the plane 5-5 on Figure 8.
Figure 6 is a plan view of the tie body, lining, and stitching. as the same would appear if viewed from the rear of Figure2. V
Figure 7- is a fragmentary view showing the position of the parts at the time of the stitching improved method of manufacture disclosed herein.
Figure 8 is a plan view of a finished necktie Figure is a fragmentary rear elevational view of the embodiment illustrated in Figure 9. Figure 11 is a fragmentary "front elevational view of the embodiment illustrated in Figure 9 having concealed longitudinal stitchesbut shows the necktie in a stressed condition.
Figure 12 is a fragmentary side elevational view as seen from the left side of Figure 11'but showing exposed longitudinal stitches.
Figure 13 is a fragmentary elevational view of the neck band portion of a necktie illustrating a third embodiment of-the invention;'that is to say, as applied to a so-called seven-fold neckties. In this figure the material is folded and is shown in an inside-out position which it occupies when the same is stitched in' accordance with'the method set forth herein.
Figure 14 shows a view' taken similarly to Figure 13 with a portion of the necktie material unfolded, showing the next step of thmethod.
Figure 15 is a view similar to Figure 14 showing the next succeeding steps in' the method. I
Figure 16 is a view taken similarly to Figure 15 showingthe nextsucceeding step in the method of manufacture with the'various folds readjusted. At this stage the necktie is still insideout.
Figure 17 is a view similar to Figure '16 showing the next step in construction. In this figure the necktie has been turned right-side-out and is viewed from the'rear thereof.
Figure 18'is a fragmentary view showing the completed necktie from a direction corresponding to therear of Figure 17. In this figure the lower portion of the front and larger wing of the necktie is shown.
Turning now to Figures 1 to 8, inclusive, a necktie indicated generally by numeral 20, includes a frontal portion 2|, and a draping portion 22, and a knot 23.
The lining blank 24isjpreferably of such width as to conform to the shape of the necktie casing 25 in which it is enclosed in the completed necktie. The blank 24 tapers outwardly at its longitudinal edges 21 and'28, towards its lower wider end portion 29 and also tapers; outwardly towards its upper narrow end portion 26;
The liningblank 24 is composed of any suit ably resilient m'aterial', preferably however, of woolen cloth cut onl hebias (indicated at numeral. 30) as is well known in'the art to which the present invention pertains.
The casing 25 of the ,necktie 20 in its developed or blank form may be the usual blank as presently employedin the art. Its general configuration may be seen'in Figures. 6, 7 and 8. Note that in Figure 6 the casing 25 has been folded along its own central longitudinal axis 50, which fold appears along the left hand side of Figure 6 and the right hand side of Figure 2.
The method of making the first embodiment 24 is preferably placed upon a fiat surface; If
desired, the central,longitudinal axis 5| of the 5| as said axis occurs in Figure 7.
suitable mark. The necktie casing 25 is folded along its axis 59 with the wrong or rear side outermost. When the necktie casing 25 is thus folded the longitudinal free edges 52 and 53 (see Figure 2) are preferably aligned so that they are coterminus.
The lining blank 24 and the portions of the casing 25 adjacent the edges 52 and 53are folded downwardly or rearwardly as viewed in Figure 2, about the axis 5|. The casing 25 and the lining blank 24 are then preferably turned so that the axis 50 occurs to the left, the two parts, casing and lining blank, now present the appearance shown in Figure '7.
' Next a single running stitch is made, the needle following the path to the left of the axis Assuming therunning stitch as beginning at the upper portion of Figure '7, the thread 3| is secured to both the casing edges and the lining blank at the axis 5| of the latter at'a point indicated at numeral 32. The thread 3| is preferably a relatively inelastic strand, flexible element, cord, or sewing thread and it is secured at the point 32 in any suitable manner as for example by an adhesive, cemented tab,'knot in the thread, or by a plurality of stitches thereat. As the needle is passed through the casing parts and lining parts it passes through six different layers during both its upward travel and its downward travel as it is reciprocated in the sewing operation. As will be understood by a perusal of the lowest portion of Figure 7, the needle in being passed downwardly or rearwardly as being viewed in that figure, passes first the two edges 52 and 53, thence through the folded lining blank 24, which is in two thicknesses at that point, thence through two more layers of the casing. The needle on its upward orforward path reverses this order of penetration. I'he stitch made by the thread 3| is preferably a simple running stitch and is made loosely so that after the desired number of stitches have been made, that is a number of stitches which will attach the tie casing to the lining throughout substantially the length of the lining, the fold occurring at the right hand edge of Figure '7 may be opened then the tie casing 25 and the lining blank 24 will appear as seen in Figure 6. The
thread 3| will take on the pattern seen in Figure 6 and slack therein is taken up or added until this thread configuration occurs when the lining is in a planar condition, after which the lower end of the thread 3| is secured at point 38 in a manner similar to the upper end thereof.
The stitching having now been completed it is only necessary to turn the entire tie casing 25 and lining 24 (which are now in a substantially tube or cylindrical form) inside-out. The necktie. 20 will now take on the appearance shown in Figure 8 and if desired the longitudinal edges or folds 54 and 55 may be pressed as is well known in-the art.
If just prior to the turning inside-out operation just described the casing and lining as viewed in'Figure Gare turned over they will present an appearance shown in Figure 2 and for the purposes of clearly setting forth the structure,- a detailed description of the path of travel of the thread 3| will now be given. Assuming the thread 3| to have been anchored at the point 32, it travels downwardly forming a plurality of stitches until it makes its appearance in Figure 2 lining blank 24 may be visually indicated by any 15 at the upper edge thereof and we give it our attention at a point indicated by numeral 56 on Figure 2. This figure shows the rear surface of the lining blank 24 that is, the surface of the lining which will lie toward the chest of the wearer when the finished tie is worn. The thread 3| is brought forwardly through the two layers of the casing and through the blank 24 at a point 33 which is located on an imaginary longitudinal axis or line along which it is desired that the lining and the tie will form'a fold or edge of a drape. The thread 3| is continued toward the central axis 5| and beyond to a point 34 and is passed rearwardly and downwardly through the blank and the casing portions. The portion of the thread exposed on the front of the blank 24 forms a transversely disposed loop 35. The thread 3| continues downwardly parallel and spaced from the axis 5| to be passed forwardly through the casing and the blank at a point 36 preferably situated on the same longitudinal axis as the point 34. From point 36 the thread 3| is brought across the front of the blank 24 and is passed rearwardly and downwardly of the necktie through the blank and the casing at a point 45 preferably situated on the same longitudinal axis as point 33. The thread is then continued down the rear surface parallel and spaced from the longitudinal central axis 5| and passed forwardly through the point 45. From point 43 on, the stitching of the thread 3| is repeated in the manner similar to that just described resulting in a plurality of loops 35 and longitudinally disposed thread portions 31 and 41. The lower end of the thread 3| is secured at the point 33 as has been described herein.
The stitches or other securing means at points 32 and 38 constitute anchors and when the blank 24 together with the casing is stressed the lengthening of the thread portions 31 and 41 causes a contraction of the loops and a consequent movement toward each other of the thread portions 31 and 41.
The appearance of the blank 24 when the same is stretched is seen in Figure 4 in which the lining portions 39 together with the adjacent casing portions are caused to form a furrow 4|]. When the blank and the casing is stressed it becomes narrower and the bias threads form a more acute angle with relation to the central longitudinal axis 5|.
When the necktie is longitudinally stretched its external appearance will be the same as that shown for the second embodiment of the invention in Figures 11 and 12.
The thread 3| is relatively inelastic, and is preferably strong, light in weight, and smooth on the outer surface thereof so that it may readily slip through the portions of the casing 25 and the lining blank 24 through which it passes.
Mercerized cotton or silk twist have been found satisfactory.
It may thus be seen that since the stitches 32 constitute an upper anchor and the stitches 38 constitute a lower anchor, when the blank 24 and the casing 25 is stressed or longitudinally stretched, in order to extend itself with the lining and casing which'have been distorted, the thread 3| must take a more nearly rectilinear course. This results in the lengthening of the thread portions 31 and 41 and the contraction of the loops 35. Loops 35 in contracting must move the points 33 and 34, 36 and 45, and the other points'corresponding thereto, toward each other thereby causing the portions 39 of the blank 24 and the portions of the necktie casing which lie transversely between said points (and rearwardly of the blank 24), to pucker or gather therebetween. The loops 35 prevent the lining blank portions 39 from moving forwardly (as viewed in Figure 6), so that the result of the contraction of the loops 35 is to cause the portions 39 to gather or pucker rearwardly of the blank 24 and thereby form a centrally longitudinally disposed groove, corrugation, orfurrow 4B, for the entire distance between the anchor points 32 and 38, or between other points closer together be tween which a state of stress exists.
- The edges 21 and 28 of the lining 24 if uninhibited would tend to form a configuration V shaped in cross section. The casing 25 flattens this down however, and a shape shown in Figure 4results. The front portion 2| (which is the exposed face of the necktie when worn) follows the contour of the lining to form a drape 4| which corresponds to the furrow 40. As has been previously stated, the draping effect of the casing 25 is more readily secured when said casing is fabricated from woven material and cut on the bias.
It may be noted at this point that the drape 4| and the furrow 40 are formed only when the lining blank and connected casing parts (edges 52 and 53) are under stress, but this drape effect is retained in the draping portion 22 by the constriction of the parts caused by the knot 23.
While the illustrated relative sizes of the iongitudinal thread portions 31, 47, and the loops 35 have been found satisfactory in use, they may be varied without departing from the scope of the appended claims. Among the variations which may be produced are the following: Increasing the length of the loops 35 will increase the depth of the furrow 43 but when this is too deep, the casing is unable to fall into it, or follow it sufliciently. Where the number of loops 35 (for a, given length, of necktie) is increased, 'a limit will be approached when so many loops interconnect the two edges of the furrow 40 that the front portion 2| of the casing 25 is unable to fall therewithin.
A feature of the present invention lies in the fact that the draping effect is not limited to any one portion of the necktie, but may be so arranged. that any area normally likely to be disposed in or adjacent to the knot may be caused to drape and remain so draped until the knot is opened and the portions released. This is true regardless of the number of times that the tie may be coiled about itself in the formation of a knot. In addition, not only the larger or front wing of the necktie for-ms a drape but also the smaller or rear wing forms a drape, and the latter drape forms and falls in a position wherein it reinforces, centers, and supports the drape in the larger wing.
Turning now to the second embodiment of the invention, illustrated in Figures 9 to 11 inclusive, a novel summer or unlined cravat is seen. The construction of the second embodiment will be readily understood when it is realized that this construction and the use thereof is substantially identical with that of the first embodiment just described, except that the lining 24 is omitted.
The casing 25 is folded upon itself along its axis with the wrong side of the material outermost. It is then folded downwardly again along a secondary axis which lies in a position corresponding to the axis 5| in Figure 2. It will then look similar to Figure '7 but without the lining blank. The single row of running slip stitches is (put in along the'edges 52 and 53' utilizing a thread 31' and the ends .of same are preferably suitably secured to the casing 25', one end being shown secured at point 38.
'After the sewing operation, the necktie indicated generally by numeral 20' is turned right side out, presenting the appearance shown in Figure 9 in which the front portion 2| is seen.
All of the stitching of the thread 3! is concealed within the tie casing 25 yet it is to'be noted that with the single stitching operation the necktie'is sewn along two spaced longitudinally disposed parallel lines. Furthermore the two longitudinal flaps formed by the edges 52 and 53' are positively secured in place so that perfect balance is maintained, a feature which will be dealt with further below. The stitching of thread 3| forms loops 35 and longitudinally disposed thread portions 31' and 41 which operate like the corresponding loops 35 and portions 31 and 41.
When the casing 25 is longitudinally stressed it takes on an appearance shown in Figures 11 and 12 forming the central longitudinally disposed drape 41. This drape is maintained adjacent the knot of the tie when the same is tied.
The third embodiment of the invention illustrated in Figures 13 to 18 inclusive is directed to the adaptation of the present invention to a so called seven-fold construction.
Generally speaking the seven-fold construction differs from the usual and most common necktie construction in that the longitudinally disposed flaps formed by the edges 52 and 53 (first embodiment) are extended laterally and folded upon themselves to form the flaps 52" and 53" (third embodiment). These flaps 52" and 53 add extra bulk or thickness to'the tie and take the place of the woven bias lining usually utilized. This construction amounts to the substitution of more expensive material (usually silk bias out) for the relatively cheaper lining, and requiring more labor operations results in a more expensive necktie. The seven-fold necktie occupies only a small part of the necktie market but its description in this disclosure indicates that the present construction as an embodiment of the invention may be incorporated in substantially all of the types of neckties now in use. I
Figures 13 to 17 inclusive illustrate fragmentary portions taken from the narrow or neck line part of the tie. The same general proportions and operations are applicable to the entire necktie 20".
The necktie casing blank 25? is first folded along the folds A, B, and C. The dot-dash axis line indicates the line along which the central axis of the completed necktie will be formed. The blank will now appear as seen in Figure 14 (but Without the stitching), and as there shown the fold A is raised and bent over upon itself to form the fold D. The whole casing is turned front to back as a unit and the same then appears as shown in Figure 13. I
A single row of slip or running stitches is then put in by means of the thread 3|". The fold D is then opened and when the necktie as a unit is reversed front to back the appearance of Figure 14 is presented. After all of the layers are flattened out and the slack of the thread 3|" is adjusted so that all of the layers lie flat when the necktie is unstressed'as heretofore described in connection withthe second embodiment. The ends of the thread may then be secured as has been described in connection with the other embodiments.
Loops 35" and longitudinally disposed thread portions 31" and 47" may now be seen.
The edge 53 is next bent over the fold E, and the edge 52 is bend over the fold F.
The fold B is now unfolded and three new folds G, H, and I are made, it being realized that the fold B isa bight of the portion 2|", wrong side out. Also the fold F is opened temporarily and the edge or flap 52' is placed over the fold A at the same time again closing the fold F. The necktie will now appear as viewed in Figure 16.
The necktie is now more or less in the form of a tube or cylinder which is turned right side out as the next step. The necktie will now appear as in Figure 18 or when viewed from the rear as in Figure 17. I
As indicated in Figure 16, itmay be seen that the longitudinal thread portions 3'!" penetrate four layers of the tie casing 25" while the longitudinal thread portions 41" penetrate two layers of the tie casing material. When the necktie is longitudinally stretched, the thread 3! assumes a more rectilinear path of travel thus tightening or contracting the loops 35" which causes a furrow to form in the casing layers disposed between and engaged by the longitudinal thread portions 3'!" and 41"; and along the axis 5|". A corresponding drape forms in the front layer or portion 2|" of the casing 25". As a matter of fact, the operation of the necktie 20" will be substantially similar to the operation of the two earlier described embodiments.
Where thin bias cut silks are used as the casing 25" the front portion of the larger wing may be provided with a lining 24". This lining if used is preferably inserted or placed in contact with the casing at the inception of the process and secured simultaneously by the thread 3|" or it may be inserted within the folds of the tie during its construction in a position indicated on Figure 18. When inserted during construction and not engaged by the thread 3| said lining should be preferably a lining manufactured in accordance with my copending application referred to hereinabove. The lining 24 may thus have a separate furrow formed by thread Mi. The ends of the lining are then attached to the tie casing in such a manner that stretching of the tie will result in a corresponding stretching of the lining and straightening of the thread 4.
It may thus be seen that I have disclosed herein three embodiments of my invention which provides a necktie which is very easily constructed and which includes many features not known in the prior art.
As has been stated above the shape and size of the various arrangements of the threads 3|, 3|, and 3|" may be varied within certain limits but in all practical applications thus far it has been found that the longitudinally disposed thread portions 31, 41; 31', 41; 31", 41", are preferably at least twice as long as the loops 35, 35', 35".
The double row of stitches formed by a single stitching operation which is in turn a result of my novel construction and new method of makmg same, advantageously secures the various tie parts together at a plurality of points which results in a stronger and more durable construction. Furthermore this double row of stitches positively maintains the necktie throughout its useful life in an absolutely balanced condition.
In necktie's heretofore known in the prior art where, a single row of stitches is provided, unless extreme care is used in the pressing operation in connection with theformation of the necktie the flaps formed by the longitudinal edges of the casing can fall of their own will to either side of such a single line of stitches. Where these two flaps are caused to separate, one line opposite the other with the line of stitching in between, a balanced construction would result. Very frequently however, even after a careful pressing .operation when the tie is repressed or cleaned these flaps become disarranged, seriously unbalancing the necktie so that the same does not hang correctly and so that an asymmetrical knot is formed. Such disarrangement of the flaps might also readily occur during the normal tying operations. Since in accordance with the present disclosure these flaps are absolutely secured on either side of the central longitudinal axis of the necktie (such as the axes 5|, 5|) no imbalance can occur either by reason of faulty cleaning, pressing, or tying.
While, usually, all of the stitching of the tie is concealed, if desired, as for example for the purpose of. identifying a necktie embodying my improved construction, such stitching, that is to say, the longitudinal thread portions 31, 41; 31', 41'; 31", 41", may be exposed along the rear surface of a part of or the Whole of the necktie as shown in Figure 12, but the loops 35, 35', and 35" must always lie adjacent the rear surface of the front portion of the casing.
As described herein the ends of the threads 3|, 3|, 3 have been recited as being secured. However, a workable construction can be obtained if these ends are left loose because in a normal tying operation the frictional engagement of the threads themselves in connection with the neckties when the tie is wrapped around the neck as well as the fact that the wings of the tie are grasped in the hands when the necktie is tied provides two points between which the necktie is stretched so that the draping may occur.
The embodiments described herein have recited the disclosure of my novel stitching arrangement in each of the neckties along substantially the entire length thereof. It is possible to stitch a portion of the tie with a single running stitch along the axes 5|, 5| and 5|" with the necktie in an unfolded condition along such stitch and axis, so that a single row of stitches results in that portion, and to stitch the remainder of the necktie with my improved stitch. Thus for example the rear or smaller wing of the necktie could have an ordinary single running stitch while the front or larger wing could have my double row of stitches as described herein. In such a tie the front or larger wing would drape when the entire tie was longitudinally stressed.
While the invention has been illustrated in connection with four-in-hand neckties as may be readily understood by those skilled in the art, mechanism which is the same in principle and structure may be incorporated in so called bow ties and others of a similar nature.
A very important feature of the present invention which is much more apparent from the actual use of a necktie embodying the same than will appear from a reading of this specification lies in the fact that a necktie constructed in accordance with the invention has less tendency to slip away from the collar about which it is knotted. This results from several reasons amon which are the following. Owing to the fact that both the rear wing and the front wing of the necktie corrugate in such a manner that the corrugations nest within each other when the knot constricts about both of these wings, greater surface friction is provided thereby inhibiting the movement of each of the wings with relation to each other or to state it otherwise the smaller wing will slide through the knot with greater difficulty than is the case in the neckties not embodying the present invention. Another reason why the knot of the necktie is maintained more securely within the intersection formed where the upper portions of the front edges of the collar meet, is because the threads 3|, 3|, 3|, form a more resilient condition in the neck band portion of the necktie, that is the area lying between the two exposed wings when the tie is worn. In ties of prior construction the sole resiilency is the natural tendency of the individual threads in the bias cut material to return to a position in which they lie at right angles to each other. In the present construction this tendency is utilized to advantage but in addition the expansive force of the compressed material lying between the ends of the loops 35, '35, 35", is taken advantage of. This means that to stretch let us say a fourteen inch portion of the neck band of the tie to a length of fifteen inches will require more tension than to stretch a tie not embodying the thread 3|, 3|, 3|" to an equal length. This additional spring-like tension is thus available throughout the period of time during which the necktie is worn about the collar and constantly maintains the knot in the most desirable position at the intersection of the upper portions of the front edges of the collar. This desired appearance is illustrated in Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings.
The foregoing description has been made rather detailed for clearness of understanding only and no unnecessary limitations should be understood therefrom but the appended claims should be construed as broadly as permissable in view of the prior art.
I claim:
1. The method of making a necktie including the steps of: Folding the necktie casing blank along the'longitudinal central axis thereof, wrong side out forming a first fold; substantially aligning the free longitudinal edges of the casing; folding the longitudinal edges upon themselves forming a second fold; stitching through said second fold with a simple running or slip stitch; opening said second fold and adjusting the stitches so that the edges may lie flat; and turning the complete, now tubularly formed casing, right side out thereby opening the first fold.
2. The method of making a necktie including the steps of folding the necktie casing blank along the longitudinal central axis thereof, wrong side out, forming a first fold; substantially aligning the free longitudinal edges of the casing; placing said aligned longitudinal edges upon the central longitudinal axis of the lining blank; folding the longitudinal edges of the casing about the central longitudinal axis of the lining blank forming a second fold thereby also folding the lining blank within the longitudinal edges of the casing; stitching through said second fold with a simple running or slip stitch; opening said second fold and adjusting the stitches so that the casing edges and the lining blank may lie flat; and turning the complete, now tubularly formed casing, right side out thereby opening the first fold.
' 3. The method of making a necktie including the stepsof: folding the bights of the casing blank along the folds A, B in a wrong side out condition, and C; folding the bight of the casing adjacent the fold A along a fold B; running a single slip stitch through the foldsC and D adjacent the edges of said last mentioned folds and to one side of the longitudinal central axis of the tie when completed; flattening out the fold D; folding the longitudinal free edges of the casing blank upon themselves, forming folds E and F; opening the fold B; and then turning the necktie right side out.
4, A stretchable necktie of the four-in-hand type having stitching disposed in the knot forming area thereof for automatically forming a dimple in the necktie when it is made up into a knot, said dimple extending from within the knot to a point below said knot, said stitching comprising longitudinal rows of loops interconnected by transverse loops, said rows being spaced from each other across the width of said necktie, the longitudinal stitching being located on the back of the necktie and the transverse stitching facing the front of the necktie.
5. A stretchable necktie of the four-in-hand typehaving stitching disposed in the knot form ing area thereof for automatically forming a dimple in the necktie when it is made up into a knot, said dimple extending from within the knot toa point below said knot, said stitching comprising longitudinal rows of loops interconnected by transverse-loops, said rows being spaced from each'other across the width of said necktie, said spaced rows of loops being formed from a single continuous thread, the longitudinal stitching being located on the back of the necktie and the transverse stitching facing the front of the necktie. i
'6. A necktie of the four-in-hand type having stitching disposed in the knot forming area thereof for automatically forming a dimple in the necktie when it is made up into a knot, said dimple extending from within the knot to a point below said knot, said stitching comprising longitudinal rows of loops located on the back of the necktie, said rows being spaced from each other across the width of said necktie, and loops transversely arranged with respect to said longitudinal rows and disposed within the necktie casing.
MAX KLEINMANN.
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2499286A (en) * 1948-06-25 1950-02-28 Cavalier Cravat Company Necktie and method of construction

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2499286A (en) * 1948-06-25 1950-02-28 Cavalier Cravat Company Necktie and method of construction

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