US2316387A

US2316387A - Method of making fur coats

Info

Publication number: US2316387A
Application number: US415576A
Authority: US
Inventors: Robert E Albrecht
Original assignee: Albrecht & Son Co E
Current assignee: Albrecht & Son Co E; E Albrecht & Son Co
Priority date: 1941-10-18
Filing date: 1941-10-18
Publication date: 1943-04-13
Anticipated expiration: 1960-04-13

Description

April 1943- R. E. ALBRECHT v 2,316,387

METHOD OF MAKINGYFUR COATS Filed Oct. 18, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG. I.

l4 FIG. 3.

ROBERT E. ALBRECHT April 1943- R. E. ALBRECHT I 2,316,387

METHOD OF MAKING FUR COATS Filed Oct. 18, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Apr. 13, 1943 METHOD OF MAKING FUR. COATS Robert E. Albrecht, St. Paul, Minn., assignor to E. Albrecht & Son St. Paul, Minn, a corporation of Minnesota Application October 18, 1941, Serial No. 415,576

8 Claims.

This invention relates to the method of making fur coats wherein after the fur has been sewed together and cut out in the fiat pattern for the particular size and style of coat, the leather is prepared for the regular lining, and then the lining is attached in place.

The method includes preparing the leather for receiving the lining of the coat, and the first step of the method is the basting of the canvas down the fronts and reinforcing the pockets with canvas which has been cut on the bias. The canvas reinforcing strips are attached by a sewing machine which just catches the leather and does not sew through the fur. This first step is completed before the coat is joined and before the pockets have been cut in to insure perfect reinforcement of the pockets. The pockets are then sewed in by the fur machine and the coat is returned to the operator of the interlining machine who sews down the pockets and covers the seam that has been created by putting in the pockets.

An interlining of flannel is then cut to the size and style of the coat which is basted directly to the leather of the coat, using an 'interlining machine which attaches the flannel interlining with a stay stitch without sewing through the fur, but just catching into the leather. Then the flannel interliner is trimmed close to the edge so that there will be no bulkiness at the armscyes.

After the fur machine operator has joined the coat, it is returned to the interlining machine where the inlays and sleeves are turned. It is then given to the finisher who puts in the lining which has been made up without the flannel (as the flannel is already in the coat), the flannel having been attached directly to the leather but not attached to the lining of the .coat. This method overcomes bulkiness at the armscyes and fronts of the coat as well as at the neck line owing to the fact that only the lining is turned instead of the lining and the flannel.

This method has the advantage of providing a better construction in making a fur coat as the basting of the flannel to the leather acts to protect the seams in the fur from wearing against the lining and also prevents the lining from saggmg.

By this method the lining of a fur coat may be accomplished more economically and a tailored appearance is obtained as the method permits the tailoring of the coat with smooth seams and a smooth finished lower edge. The woolen liner is not attached to the lining proper of the coat, but is secured to the face of the leather by a stay stitch with an interlining machine.

Heretofore in the old method of preparing a coat for lining, the coat was entirely joined together and then it was given to the finisher who sewed the canvas down the fronts and around the pockets. The finisher would then turn the inlays back and sew them down. The bottom edge and sleeves were finished in the same manner. The coat was then ready for lining. The lining cutter cut the flannel, fitted it to the coat, then cut the lining, and the lining and flannel were then basted together and sewed together by a machine. The lining with the flannel sewed thereto was then given to the finisher who put it in the fur coat. This old method caused an excessive bulkiness, especially around the armscyes where the body lining and the sleeve lining made four thicknesses, making the coat materially smaller in the armscyes. In fur coats made by this old method, the lining sagged after being worn. Further, in the old method, the woolen liner rubbed against the leather, causing the nap of the liner to rub and wear and to roll up, making rough surfaces as well as wearing the nap off and causing the same to work down to the lower edge of the lining and reinforcing liner. This was very undesirable. The reinforcing woolen liner wouldalso become worn in spots and thus lose its effectiveness. With this new process, the woolen liner is attached directly to the leather by stay stitch means around the sleeves or armscyes and across the surface of the leather in the body of the coat at any point, in fact, in many difierent places so as to attach the liner in a manner so that it acts as a reinforcing means for the leather of the fur coat.

To assist in describing this method of making fur coats, the drawings illustrate in Figure l the inside or leather surface of the fur coat, showing the canvas reinforcingstrips attached down the front margins and at the pocket openings.

Figure 2 illustrates the manner in which the pockets are sewed in by the fur machine operator and the coat is then returned to the operator of the stay stitch or interlining machine, who sews down the pockets and covers the seams that have been created by putting the pockets in, by turning the canvas liner back over the attached end of the pocket and stay stitching the same thereto.

Figure 3 illustrates the next step of the process which includes attaching the flannel liner by stay stitching and basting the same with the interliner machine over various portions of the same to permanently attach the flannel interliner to the leather without sewing through the fur.

Figure 4 illustrates an enlarged detail of the stay stitch.

Figure 5 is a section on the line 5-5 of Figure 4.

Figure 6 is a section on the line 6-45 of Figure 4.

Figure 7 illustrates the leather side of the sleeves, showing the next step of the process where the inner flannel lining is stay stitched to the face of the leather of the sleeves, and thus provides a reinforcing liner means for the leather of the sleeves.

Figure 8 illustrates th inside of the fur coat, showing the finished liner attached over the flannel liner, the finishing liner being of silk or other finishing material to provide the smooth finishing liner for the coat.

Figure 9 illustrates the finished liner sewed to one of the sleeves, illustrating the next step of the process after Figure 8.

Figure 10 is a section on the line |U-| of Figure 8.

Figure 11 is a section on the line of Figure 8.

Figure 12 is a section on the line |2--|2 of Figure 9.

In carrying out this method of making fur coats, it is desirable to prepare the leather surface H) of the fur coat A by reinforcing it with canvas strips along the margins of the front edges, and the reinforcing strips l2 over the pocket slits 3. The reinforcing members II and I2 are made of canvas cut on the bias and are attached by stay stitching M which is done by an interlining machine. The stay stitch I4 is more clearly illustrated in Figures 4, and 6, which show the loops |5 sewed through the face ID of the leather of the coat, while the loops are connected by the longitudinal thread I6. The stay stitching l4 bastes the reinforcing strips H and I2 directly to the surface of the leather without stitching through the fur, the needle of the machine hooking through a portion of the leather yet not penetrating through the same.

The process is carried out by attaching the pockets l8 over the slits l3 and then stay stitching the free side of the pockets at l9 and turning the flap |2' of the reinforcing strips |2 over the seam where the pocket is attached to the slit to cover the seam with the reinforcing flap |2, the free edge of which is held in place over the pocket and the seam by the stay stitching 20.

The next step of this method of making fur coats resides in attaching the reinforcing flannel or woolen liner 2| over the leather face IU of the coat A. The drawings show the coat A cut out in the pattern and style of the coat as it would appear from the leather side of the fur. The flannel liner 2| is stay stitched by the stay stitching I4 marginally along the front edges and down the center of the body of the coat and at different places in the body so as to securely and permanently attach the liner 2| to the leather of the coat A. Thus the liner 2| provides a reinforcing means over the leather and covers the seams of the leather being fixed so that it moves with the leather virtually as a part thereof, and thus protects the finishing liner 22 which is attached over the fixed inner liner 2| in the next step of this method and as illustrated in Figure 8.

The sleeves B of the coat A are finished in the same manner as the body of the coat A, by

stay stitching with the stitches M, the inner flannel or woolen liner 23. The stay stitching may extend marginally or around the periphery of the liner 23 and down through the body of the same as illustrated in Figure 7.

It is also apparent that the stay stitching l4 may be placed in any position to attach the liners 2| and 23 in a manner to lie fiat against the leather In of the body of the coat A and the leather 24 of the sleeves B.

The finishing liner 22 which may be of silk, satin, or any other suitable and desirable material to finish the inside surface of the fur coat A is attached by marginal stitching 25. It will be apparent that with this method of making and finishing fur coats, the marginal edges at the armscyes 26 for the sleeves and the marginal edges 21 down the front of the coat, as well as the lower edge 28, are finished flat and smooth without a bulky thick seam as was the case in the old method of making fur coats.

Thus this method provides a tailored appearance to the whole coat A when finished and overcomes the sagging or bulging at the different finishing points. The margin down the front edges 21 of the coat A have the fur turned in marginally at 29 and then are stitched by the stitching 25, which attaches the finishing liner 22 to the marginal inturned edge of the fur at 29 so as to provide a finish along the front edges of the coat, as is more clearly shown by the cross section in Figure 10. It will also be apparent that the inner woolen liner 2| which is attached by the stay stitching l4, lies flat against the surface IU of the leather and is entirely free from the inner finishing liner 22.

The bottom edge 28 of the coat A is finished by the stitching 25 which attaches the lower edge of the inner liner 22 marginally directly to the face l0 of the leather to provide a fiat tailored lower edge 23 as illustrated in the section of Figure 11. Here again, the woolen liner 2| is shown attached by the stay stitching I I which holds this liner as a reinforcing flat against the leather of the fur coat and yet entirely free from the lining 22.

The inner finishing silk or satin liner 30 for the sleeves B is attached marginally by the stitching 3| which is similar to the stitching 25 which directly attaches the liner 3!] to the face 24 of the leather of the sleeves B in the same manner as the lower edge 28 is formed and as illustrated by the section of Figure 11. Thus the marginal edges around the periphery of the sleeves B in their flat state as illustrated in Figure 9, are fiinished as the cross section Figure 11 illustrates, with the reinforcing woolen liner 23 spaced marginally from the edge of the periphery of the sleeves B as illustrated in Figure 12.

After the liner 22 of the body of the coat A and the liners 30 of the sleeves, have been stitched in place, the coat may be sewed together in the usual manner, and it will be apparent that the finishing seams will be smooth, comparatively thin and not bulky, and that a finer tailoring where the sleeves are joined to the body of the coat as well as around the marginal edges of the coat and at the pockets is accomplished.

Thus this method provides a tailoring of a fur coat with smooth seams and a smooth finished lower edge, and a reinforcing woolen liner which is secured to the surface of the leather by stay stitching and is adapted to act as a strengthening means over the leather and forms a shield over the seams of the leather to protect the finishing liner from rubbing against the leather. The woolen liner is not attached to the finishing liner which is free to move with the movement of the body of the wearer of the coat. The silk, satin or other form of lining can be tailored and finished before it is placed as a liner in the fur coat. This finishing liner is not attached to the woolen reinforcing liner but is secured to the marginal edge of the leather of the fur coat, thus giving a very neat tailored appearance to the edges of the finished coat. Further, by this method, a fur coat can be made more economically than by old methods and yet have a finer tailored appearance, permitting the accentuation of the style of the coat.

It is of primary importance that this new method of making fur coats provides a fiat smooth surface over the body of the coat and permits a smooth tailored finish to be accomplished in the attachment of the sleeves, as well as permitting the marginal edges to be flat and smooth and therefore giving a very clean-cut tailored finish or styling to a fur coat which has not been possible with old methods used heretofore.

I claim:

1. The method of making fur coats comprising surface sewing an interliner directly to the leather of the fur at spaced intervals to hold the interliner fiat against and in fixed position to the leather, and then sewing a finishing liner of the coat to the free peripheral edges of the coat.

2. The method of making fur coats comprising surface sewing an interliner directly to the leather of the fur at spaced intervals to hold the interliner flat against and virtually fixed to the leather, and around the marginal edges over the leather of the pockets and around the pocket openings and over the body of the sleeves, and then sewing the finished tailored liner to the marginal edges of the fur coat and the sleeves to provide a freely disposed smooth tailored finish to the entire finishing liner of the coat.

3. The method of making a fur coat consisting in stay stitching to the surface of the leather along the front portions of the body and over the pocket openings sheet-like reinforcing material, then stay stitching to the surface of the leather a woolen liner which is adapted to cover the seams of the leather and is cut to extend to a marginal space around the periphery of the body of the coat, the stay stitching of the woolen liner extending at spaced intervals over the body of the leather of the coat to firmly fix the woolen liner to the leather, then attaching a finished silk or satin liner marginally to the body of the coat but leaving the silk or satin liner free excepting where it is attached, then covering the sleeve leather of the coat with a woolen liner, stay stitching the same to fix it to the leather of the sleeves, and sewing the finished sleeve silk or satin liners to the marginal edges of the sleeves, then sewing the sleeves into the armscyes of the coat and joining the body portions of the coat together to complete the same, providing a fur coat with a smooth tailored finish and with the silk or satin liner free of attachment with the woolen liner, and the leather of the coat excepting at the margins thereof.

4. The method of making fur coats consisting in sewing the body of the coat together in its flat formation, then attaching reinforcing canvas strips to the inner surfaces by stay stitching the same to the leather to protect the pocket openings and strengthen the portions over which 3 the canvas is attached in its flat state, then attaching a woolen liner to the body of the leather of the coat by stay stitching at spaced intervals, the woolen liner being cut and sewed together in the proper shape and style and having its peripheral edge spaced from the peripheral marginal edge of the leather of the fur coat, then attaching marginally a satin, silk or other finishing liner to the marginal edge of the leather of the fur coat independent of and not attached to the woolen liner, giving a flat smooth tailored finish marginally of the coat, with fiat joints and seams, giving a tailored finish and styling to the completed fur coat.

5. The method of preparing the leather of fur coats for receiving and securing the finishing liner, consisting in stay stitching reinforcing material down the fronts of the coat and over the pocket openings to attach the reinforcing to the surface of the leather lying entirely fiat over the same, then attaching the pockets adjacent the pocket openings and securing a portion of the reinforcing material over the seam of the attached pockets, then stay stitching a fiat woolen liner to the surface of the leather with the marginal edge of the woolen liner spaced from the marginal edge of the leather about the periphery of the coat to leave a bare leather portion about the periphery of the body of the coat, and stay stitching in the same manner a Woolen liner over the leather of the sleeves of the coat, with the marginal edge of the leather left bare of the woolen liner, then attaching a finished satin or silk liner to the bare marginal edges of the leather free of the woolen liner throughout the body thereof and attaching the satin or silk or other liner to the bare marginal edges of the sleeves in the same manner as the finishing liner is attached to the body of the coat, then connecting the sleeves to the armscyes of the coat, and completing the sewing of the edges of the coat together to finish the coat, whereby the adjoining seams of the coat, sleeves, the front edge and the lower edge of the fur coat, are formed with a flat smooth tailored finish, and the inner finishing liner of the coat and sleeves is free to move over the woolen liner without drawing or pulling or rubbing against the leather.

6. The method of making fur coats including attaching a reinforcing to the surface of the leather and covering the inner surface of the leather with a woolen liner by attaching the same at intervals with a flat stay stitch which does not penetrate through the leather, attaching a woolen liner to the sleeves in the same manner and then marginally attaching a finishing liner which covers the entire woolen liner but is not attached thereto over the body and the sleeves of the coat, providing flat marginal finished edges which can be joined together to attach the sleeves to the armscyes and to connect the adjoining edges of the coat to form the same in the desired style and to provide the coat with a lower fiat tailored edge which will not bulge or sag, and providing a fur coat with an inner reinforcing liner directly attached to the leather of the coat, and leaving the finishing liner free to move with the body of the wearer without drawing or pulling against the reinforcing liner or the leather.

'7. The method of making fur coats consisting in covering the leather with a reinforcing sheet textile material by stay stitching the same directly to the leather of the coat, and attaching a finishing liner marginally to the coat with comparatively flat marginal edges and entirely free of the interliner which is secured to the leather, thereby providing a means of reinforcing the leather and leaving the inner finishing liner thereof freely disposed over its entire body to give free movement of the finishing liner with the body of the wearer, preventing rubbing of the finishing liner on the leather of the coat, and overcoming bulkiness at the armscyes, the front edges, the neckline, the sleeve edges, and the lower edge of the coat, thereby preventing sagging and bulging of the lining.

8. The method of making fur coats consisting in first reinforcing the leather of the body of the coat by stay stitching strips of reinforcing material cut on the bias, then attaching the pockets in place and covering the seam of the pocket with flat reinforcing material, then attaching in a fiat died-out state a reinforcing liner by stay stitching the same at spaced intervals to the surface of the leather of the body of the coat, and to the surface of the leather of the sleeves of the coat, then attaching a finished liner marginally of the sleeves and the body of the coat, but unattached to the inner reinforcing liner, whereby a fur coat may be joined together with a finished tailored smooth styling at the seams, margins and lower edge, giving a fiat finished appearance which adds to the styling and attractiveness of the coat.

ROBERT E ALBRECHT.