US226719A - Peters - Google Patents

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US226719A
US226719A US226719DA US226719A US 226719 A US226719 A US 226719A US 226719D A US226719D A US 226719DA US 226719 A US226719 A US 226719A
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belts
pulleys
fluter
fabric
ruche
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • D06C23/04Making patterns or designs on fabrics by shrinking, embossing, moiréing, or crêping

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  • NPETERS PHOTO-UTMOGRAPNEK wAsmNGToN u c 0. CLARK.
  • tion performs an important additional func- 50 Be it known that I, CORNELIUS CLARK, of tion in receiving and imparting heat.
  • Fig. 2 shows the tapes to aid in holding the material.
  • Fig. 3 is a plan view of these moving parts, adheres with considerable force by the nature cor-responding to Fig. 2.
  • the corrugations or bends extend evenly upon which the fabric is compressed. I have across the entire breadth of the double ruche in my experiments used the materials known 7 0 which is to be formed.
  • Fig. 5 is a cross-secas tarlatan, organdie, and crepe lisse.
  • FIG. 6 is a side view of the be successfully worked by its aid. entire machine, or of so much thereof as in- C and D are endless metallic bands runvolves the novel parts, and shows the relation ning at an equal and moderate rate over pul- 35 thereof to the ordinary part-thefluter.
  • Fig. leys C C D D and arranged to receive the 7 is a plan view of the same. Fig.
  • Fig. 8 is a view fluted fabric as it comes from the fluter B and of the back side, or the side from which the carry it slowly along, pressing it only to the power is received, and which will usually be limited breadth of these bands, and leaving a farthest from the attendant.
  • Fig. 9 is a side large portion at each edge in its gracefully- 0 View of the fixed framing alone, with the sevfluted condition. This carrying is performed eral moving parts removed. in close contact with the curved part A of the 0 Similar letters of reference indicate like frame, the arrangement being such that the parts in all the figures. tension of the belts C D causes them to press I employ a substantial frame-work of casttogether and upon the fixed surface, as will be 5 iron or other suitable material,designated genobvious from the Figs. 1, 2, and 6.
  • E is a curved pipe, supplied with gas from 5 when necessary by additional marks, as A the street-mains or other source by a connec-' A 8m.
  • This frame supports and adjusts the tion of any ordinary kind, (not shown,) and parts which perform the labor, and one pordischarging the same through a series of small jets, so as to induce a nearly continuous flame under the curved part A of the frame.
  • F is a pipe having bent branches F F, supplied with steam at a moderate pressure from aboiler or other source. (Not shown.) Each branch directs a gentle current of steam into the several flutes of the fabric as they pass.
  • Each branch directs a gentle current of steam into the several flutes of the fabric as they pass.
  • cords m are supplied in a wet condition from balls of cord immersed in a vessel .of water, (not shown,) and are led up through guides at, which may be merely deep notches in the framing or in a part bolted thereto, and are led between the belts G D, so as to lie parallel in the desired positions on the lower belt, D, and be caused to adhere in those positions to the double ruche formed. Then the double ruche is divided one cord m goes with each part.
  • the belts G D may be adjusted in tightness by the tightening-pulleys c d, carried on ad? justable arms I, secured by bolts 1, as shown. At the point where they receive the fluted stuff they are wide apart; but as they move forward they gradually approach, and by the time the steam is injected and the hot portion A of the frame begins to be traversed over, the belts are pressing together and upon the hot frame with the required degree of force.
  • I can increase the length of the curved part A and of the belts O D, with a corresponding change in the position of the pulleys 0 D so as to give a longer time for the heat and compression, if desired. 1 have, for convenience of illustration, shortened those parts.
  • the pulleys O D are geared together by the wheels 0 01 and receive their motion through the gear-wheel Z from the shaft L, which carries a cone-pulley, L, or a set of different sized pulleys in the position the reverse of the corresponding pulleys P on the sh aftP, which receives the motion through a beltfrom the driving-power. (Not shown.)
  • the belts G H may, by such adjustment, be made to take hold of any ordinary quality of goods or size of flutes with just sufficient force to convey it away promptly and prevent its sagging down as it emerges from the fluter B, and still with too little force to deform the delicate corrugations or to seriously affect them when they are nearly arrested in the gripe of the slower-moving belts G D.
  • the required motion is communicated to pulleys g h on the overhung end of the shafts of G H, by a pitch-chain, 0,
  • the pulleys G G H H are nearly uniform cylinders, except that grooves are formed or other provisions are made for guiding the narrow belts G H.
  • the surfaces of the pulleys G H where the narrow belts do not come are covered with brush material or card material G H so as to give the efi'ect of brushes to better seize the fluted fabric and draw it into the space between the belts G H. With these pulleys thus roughened the belts G H may be made very smooth, as of fine polished wire, and the device will succeed well.
  • R is a detachable curved plate fitted closely over the upper band, C, where it runs forward in the act of compressing and carrying the fluted material. It confines the vapor introduced by the pipes F and generated by the hot surface A, and causes it to be diffused more equally throughout the half-formed ruche. It is removed when desired by unscrewing the bolt 1. t It retains the heat and aids not only the uniformity but also the rapidity of the drying.
  • the belts 0 D and the curved frame A may be used without the belts G H.
  • the latter may be used without the brush material on the rollers or pulleys, and steam may be used at a different point from the pipes shown, or can be dispensed with altogether if the material is suitable.
  • I can use steam instead of gas-flame to heat the curved way A 5 but I prefer the whole as shown.
  • ruches may be greatly varied in width. I propose to adapt the machine for the widest double ruche likely to be required, and then all the narrower fabrics can be worked either with or without such changes as dispensing with some of the belts GH. For some goods only one belt, G and H, on each side of the center will be required for any ordinary width. The invention is thus shown in Fig. 7.
  • Two or more of the cords in may be run through each guide a, and worked into each single ruche. It will be understood that the ruche will for many or most purposes require binding on the flattened edge after cutting apart from its mate.
  • the cone pulleys K K and belt J in the connection between the compressing and carrying belts O D, and the fluter B, in combination therewith, and adapted to serve in varying the fullness of the ruches, as herein set forth.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Description

' 3 Sheets-Sheet 1. C. CLARK.
ow n 1 1H 0 a M g n h 0 u R m 6 2 2 m N Patented April 20,1880.
NPETERS, PHOTO-UTMOGRAPNEK wAsmNGToN u c 0. CLARK.
Rushing-Machine. No. 226,719. Patented April 20,1880.
A Q j eyd. 7
Z1 6 L131 J 6 22 j m 4 J N- PETERS. PNOTO-LITHOGRAPKER NNNNNNNNNNNNN C.
3Sheets-Sheet 3. C. CLARK.
. Ruohing-Machine. No. 226,719. v Patented April 20,1880.
ER. x To UNITED STATES PATENT OErroE."
CORNELIUS CLARK, OF BROOKLYN, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF AND CLINTON H. SMITH, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.
RUCHlNG-MACHlNE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 226,719, dated April 20, 1880.
Application filed January 24, 1880.
To all whom it may concern: tion performs an important additional func- 50 Be it known that I, CORNELIUS CLARK, of tion in receiving and imparting heat.
Brooklyn, Kings county, in the State of New B B is a chaiirfluter, of well-known con- York, have invented certain new and useful struction, which performs its ordinary func- Improvements relating to Machines for Maktion of receiving a long strip of suitable woven ing Ruches; and I do hereby declare that material in a plane condition and discharging 5 5 the following is a full and exact description it bent into a series of uniform and graceful thereof. corrugations or flutes, each of which extends The accompanying drawings form a part of evenly across from one edge to the other. The
this specification, and represent what I conparts which I have combined therewith take sider the best means of carrying out theinventhe material thus bent and flatten it down tion. The first threefigures are mere diagrams along a sufficient breadth along the center to indicate the action of certain moving parts line, and hold it thus permanently flattened, without obscuring or complexing the View by so that on cutting afterward along the center 1 5 anyrepresentation therewith of the parts which two complete ruches are formed ready for bindsupport and impel the same. ing and use in any of the ways in which such Figure 1 is an edge view of certain metallic decorations are applied. bands-which receive the partially-formed fab- My invention allows for greatly varying the ric from an ordinary fluter and compress and fullness of the plaits or corrugations without 20 carry forward the same, holding it by the midchanging the fluter, and for applying cords or dle of its breadth alone. Fig; 2 shows the tapes to aid in holding the material. The masame with certain important additions; and terial, being compressed together with heat, Fig. 3 is a plan view of these moving parts, adheres with considerable force by the nature cor-responding to Fig. 2. The next two figof its sizing. The heat is applied in two 25 ures indicate the condition of the ruche on a \vaysby a gentle blowing of steam into the larger scale. Fig. etis an edge view of the maseveral corrugations or flutes from the edges, terial as it comes from the fluter. At this and byadirect application of fire-to the metal stage the corrugations or bends extend evenly upon which the fabric is compressed. I have across the entire breadth of the double ruche in my experiments used the materials known 7 0 which is to be formed. Fig. 5 is a cross-secas tarlatan, organdie, and crepe lisse.
tion through a piece ofthe ruche in a com- I believe any proper material for ruches may pleted condition. Fig. 6 is a side view of the be successfully worked by its aid. entire machine, or of so much thereof as in- C and D are endless metallic bands runvolves the novel parts, and shows the relation ning at an equal and moderate rate over pul- 35 thereof to the ordinary part-thefluter. Fig. leys C C D D and arranged to receive the 7 is a plan view of the same. Fig. 8 is a view fluted fabric as it comes from the fluter B and of the back side, or the side from which the carry it slowly along, pressing it only to the power is received, and which will usually be limited breadth of these bands, and leaving a farthest from the attendant. Fig. 9 is a side large portion at each edge in its gracefully- 0 View of the fixed framing alone, with the sevfluted condition. This carrying is performed eral moving parts removed. in close contact with the curved part A of the 0 Similar letters of reference indicate like frame, the arrangement being such that the parts in all the figures. tension of the belts C D causes them to press I employ a substantial frame-work of casttogether and upon the fixed surface, as will be 5 iron or other suitable material,designated genobvious from the Figs. 1, 2, and 6.
erally by A. Certain parts will be denoted E is a curved pipe, supplied with gas from 5 when necessary by additional marks, as A the street-mains or other source by a connec-' A 8m. This frame supports and adjusts the tion of any ordinary kind, (not shown,) and parts which perform the labor, and one pordischarging the same through a series of small jets, so as to induce a nearly continuous flame under the curved part A of the frame.
F is a pipe having bent branches F F, supplied with steam at a moderate pressure from aboiler or other source. (Not shown.) Each branch directs a gentle current of steam into the several flutes of the fabric as they pass. By the combined dam penin g an d heatingefl'ect of the steam and the pressing and heating due 'to the carrying between the narrow lnetal belts over the curve A the ruche is effectually flattened and stuck together in the flattened condition. It emerges flat along the middle and frilled each side, so that cutting along the middle makes two ruches; but, thus held only by the slight adhesion and stiffness, a little tension might derange it. I introduce the necessary longitudinal cords to resist tension in the process of manufacture. I will mark 'the main fabric M, and these cords m. The
cords m are supplied in a wet condition from balls of cord immersed in a vessel .of water, (not shown,) and are led up through guides at, which may be merely deep notches in the framing or in a part bolted thereto, and are led between the belts G D, so as to lie parallel in the desired positions on the lower belt, D, and be caused to adhere in those positions to the double ruche formed. Then the double ruche is divided one cord m goes with each part.
The belts G D may be adjusted in tightness by the tightening-pulleys c d, carried on ad? justable arms I, secured by bolts 1, as shown. At the point where they receive the fluted stuff they are wide apart; but as they move forward they gradually approach, and by the time the steam is injected and the hot portion A of the frame begins to be traversed over, the belts are pressing together and upon the hot frame with the required degree of force. I can increase the length of the curved part A and of the belts O D, with a corresponding change in the position of the pulleys 0 D so as to give a longer time for the heat and compression, if desired. 1 have, for convenience of illustration, shortened those parts. In my experiments I have made the pulleys G (J D D about eight inches in diameter, and made the curved part of the framing A forty-two inches long. I mount the rolls (3 D almost in contact, but the rolls 0 D about two and one-half inches apart.
The'proper transference of the newly-fluted material from the fluter B into the open space between the belts O D is greatly aided by what I term receiving and delivering belts G H, running over pulleys G G H H (Shown in all the figures except Fig. 1.) These belts G H are of leather, rubber, or some analogous material having the property of exerting considerable force in controlling, dragging, or restraining with' only a gentle pressure, and are arranged on each side of the center line of the fabric, so that they leave center space unobstructed, ready for the metal belts G D to close together there, while theleather belts G H travel along each side. The belts G Hrun faster. There is a tendency of the newly-fluted fabric to extend itself again as soon as it emerges from the fluter. It is the function of these belts G H to seize it and run away with it at such a speed as to allow of such partial straightening; but as soon as the rapid belts G H have carried the half-opened flutes forward into the gradually-contracting space between the slow metallic belts O D the motion of the fabric is restrained and the flutes are compressed against each other again. I can so operate as to compress or condense them to just about their original form, as induced by the fluter B, or to a greater or less extent. This depends mainly or entirely on the speed of the metal belts G D, which may be varied relatively to the speed of the fluter B and of the other parts by shifting the belt J upon the cone-pulleys K K as will be understood from the drawings. (See Figs. 7 andS.)
The pulleys O D are geared together by the wheels 0 01 and receive their motion through the gear-wheel Z from the shaft L, which carries a cone-pulley, L, or a set of different sized pulleys in the position the reverse of the corresponding pulleys P on the sh aftP, which receives the motion through a beltfrom the driving-power. (Not shown.)
The transference of motion between the other parts requires no especial description, except, perhaps, that to the belts G H. I make the distance between these belts adjustable by mounting the pulleys G G on adjustable portions A of the framing, which, being fixed on the stout bar A held by screw-bolts N, inserted through the slots shown, may be raised and lowered, as required, to give a greater or less hold on the fluted fabric. The belts G H may, by such adjustment, be made to take hold of any ordinary quality of goods or size of flutes with just sufficient force to convey it away promptly and prevent its sagging down as it emerges from the fluter B, and still with too little force to deform the delicate corrugations or to seriously affect them when they are nearly arrested in the gripe of the slower-moving belts G D. The required motion is communicated to pulleys g h on the overhung end of the shafts of G H, by a pitch-chain, 0,
running on a properly-spiked or sprocket wheel, 1), on the driving-shaft P, the pulleys g h being similarly spiked. A similar device is, for convenience, adopted for driving the fluter B.
I apply the terms rob and reef to the effect produced on the ruches by changing the belt J from one position to another on the cone-pulleys K K When it extends the flutes, so as to require less material per yard, the term rob applies; when it compresses together, so as to form a richer ruche by pulling the plaits more together, I term it reefing.
The pulleys G G H H are nearly uniform cylinders, except that grooves are formed or other provisions are made for guiding the narrow belts G H. The surfaces of the pulleys G H where the narrow belts do not come are covered with brush material or card material G H so as to give the efi'ect of brushes to better seize the fluted fabric and draw it into the space between the belts G H. With these pulleys thus roughened the belts G H may be made very smooth, as of fine polished wire, and the device will succeed well.
R is a detachable curved plate fitted closely over the upper band, C, where it runs forward in the act of compressing and carrying the fluted material. It confines the vapor introduced by the pipes F and generated by the hot surface A, and causes it to be diffused more equally throughout the half-formed ruche. It is removed when desired by unscrewing the bolt 1. t It retains the heat and aids not only the uniformity but also the rapidity of the drying.
Modifications may be made in the forms and proportions of the details. I believe some of the features may be made useful without the whole. Thus, for example, the belts 0 D and the curved frame A, with provisions for heating and adjusting, may be used without the belts G H. The latter may be used without the brush material on the rollers or pulleys, and steam may be used at a different point from the pipes shown, or can be dispensed with altogether if the material is suitable. I can use steam instead of gas-flame to heat the curved way A 5 but I prefer the whole as shown.
It will be understood that the ruches may be greatly varied in width. I propose to adapt the machine for the widest double ruche likely to be required, and then all the narrower fabrics can be worked either with or without such changes as dispensing with some of the belts GH. For some goods only one belt, G and H, on each side of the center will be required for any ordinary width. The invention is thus shown in Fig. 7.
Two or more of the cords in may be run through each guide a, and worked into each single ruche. It will be understood that the ruche will for many or most purposes require binding on the flattened edge after cutting apart from its mate.
I do not confine the use of the machine to the working of any particular material or the manufacture of articles of any particular name.
I claim as my invention 1. In a ruchingmachine, the combination, with the fluter B, of the metallic belts O D, arranged to compress a portion of the ruche the proper width and to carry it forward in a compressed condition, as herein specified.
2. In a ruching-machine, the receiving and delivering bands G H, fluter B, and compressingbands 0 D, combined and arranged for joint operation as and for the purpose herein specified.
3. In a ruching-machine, the curved framing A and gas-pipe E, with jets for flames, as described, in combination with the compress. ing-bands O D, and means, B G H, for throwin g the fabric into corrugations or flutes and introducing it into the compressing and carrying mechanism, as herein specified.
4. The steam-pipes F F F, arranged as shown relatively to the curved way A, carrying and compressing parts 0 D, and fluter B, for the purposes herein specified.
5. In a ruching machine, the cone pulleys K K and belt J, in the connection between the compressing and carrying belts O D, and the fluter B, in combination therewith, and adapted to serve in varying the fullness of the ruches, as herein set forth.
6. Thebrush material or equivalent roughening, G H*, on the pulleys G H, between the belts G G H H, in combination with such belts and with the fluter B, compressing and carrying bands 0 D, and means for applying heat to the compressed fabric, as herein specified.
7. In a ruching-machine, the heated way A, steam-injecting pipes F, and compressing and carrying bands 0 D, combined, as shown, with each other and with a fluter, B, suitable means, G H, for aiding the transfer of the fluted fabric, and means, It 4", for covering in the heated way and the fabric traversing it, as herein specified/ In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 21st day of January, 1880, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.
CORNELIUS CLARK.
Witnesses:
URIAH WELCH, QHARLES O. STETSON.
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