US2246400A - Stocking and a method of manufacturing stockings - Google Patents

Description

June 17,1941. A. F. VERBEEK 2,246,400

STOCKING AND A METHOD OF MANUFACTURING STOCKINGS Filed Feb. 11. 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 June 17, 1941 I A. F. VERBEEK STOCKING AND A METHOD OF MANUFACTURING STOCKINGS Filed Feb. 11, 1959 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 y??? 1 AW m HHHI HWW (M o x a u i.) I 3 1) I m 670a J62 a .Wuaw AM J w Rim 8 $8 A. F. VERBEEK June 17, 1941.

STOCKING AND A METHOD OF MANUFACTURING STOCKINGS 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Feb. 11, 1939 Patented June 17, 1941 STOCKING AND A METHOD OF MANUFAC- TUBING STOCKINGS Arnold Friedrich Verbeek, Oberlungwita, Germany, assignorto Kallo, Inc., New York, N. Y., acorporatlon of New York Application February 11, 1939, Serial No. 255,894 In Germany February 15,1938

17 Claims. (cl. ss 1s4) The invention relates fro improvements in the manufacture of stockings with French heels and French feet. In the manufacture of such stockings itis known to make a stocking. blank consisting of a leg and foot knitted in oneoperation on a straight bar knitting machine, the sole parts being connected directlyto the high heel parts. After the connect-ion of the last course of the high heel parts and the initial course ofthe sole, parts has been cut, the blank is then with these courses of loops onone line run on to the needle section of a straight bar knitting machine, for example a heel machine, in such a manner that the end courses of the high heel parts and the initial courses of the sole parts aresituated side by side on the needles of the section. Thereupon, the heel parts are worked on to the high heel parts and simultaneously the inwardly situated loops of the heel courses are connected to the loops of the initial courses of the sole parts by transfer.

In connecting together the aforesaid courses of loops of 'theheel parts and sole parts by simple transfer, certain defects occur, particularly in the heel corner. Furthermore, there is a danger that when the blank is cut for working on the heel parts the loops of the initial courses of the sole parts will be loosened by the frequent transfer, while in addition, the strength of the connection in the for the stresses ocheel corner is: not adequate curring there. t

The aforesaid disadvantages are obviated by the invention described hereinafter with reference to the accompanying'drawings. Loosening of the initial course of the loops of the sole parts to be transferred is prevented by producing the loop courses in such a manner that when the fabric is cut the terminal. loops of said courses at the selvedged edges of the fabric are posithe first loop course of the sole parts situated adjacent' one another on the needle section before Working on the heel parts, the strength of the heel corner is increased and at the same time the occurrence of holes is prevented. Furthermore,

increased strength of the connection between the heel parts and the sole parts is secured by a suitable distribution of the loops of the initial courses of the sole parts among the inwardly situated loops of the heel parts.

In the accompanying-drawings:

Holes are readily formed there.

Fig.1 shows the front part of a stocking blank consisting solely of the leg and foot and having a French foot and toe.

Fig. 2 shows the same stocking blank after the separation of the high heel and sole parts in the position suitable for running on.

Fig. 3 shows the same stocking blank on a larger scale after being run on to the needle section of a straight bar knitting machine, in order to attach the heel in ac'cordancewith the invention.

Figure 4a is an enlarged diagrammatic representation of the knitted loops disposed substantially within the area indica ed by the rectangle in Figure 1, and illustrates the disadvantages ,which result from the cutting and topping of courses in the manner shown in this Figure 4a.

Figure 4b is a representation somewhat similar to Figure 4a and illustrates the advantages which result from the cutting and topping of courses in the manner shown in this figure.

Fig. 5 shows a plan of the needles of the needle section situated within the rectangle shown in Fig. 3 with the loops of the high heel parts and sole parts located on said-needles.

, Fig, 6 shows the loop diagram represented in Fig. 5 after the transfer of the loops of the initial courses of the sole parts by the space of two needles. t

Fig. '7 shows a stocking made according to the invention, in which the connection of the heel parts and sole parts is made with varying strength. t t

Fig. 8 is a mesh or loop diagram of a part'of the connection shown in Fig. '1.

Figs. 1, 2 and 3 merely serve to explain the inof the stocking blank which is knitted ;in one operation; the sole parts I beingworked on to (i. e; directly'connected'to) the high-heel parts 8. Thelast courses of the high heel p'artsare shown at and the first course of the sole parts at 6, after the transfer upon a transfer devicewith swingable bar parts.

In Fig. 2, the courses I and 6 are shown separated from one another and initial row of the sole parts I of the foot 2 are folded in such a manner that the courses 5 and i lie adjoining one another side by side in a straight line. In

this condition, the blank is first run on to an usual kind and the brasses II for transferring the loops of the initial courses of the sole parts have been shown.

The construction of the machine itself corresponds to the known straight bar knitting machines. In finishing thestocking, as a rule loops are formed only on the needles 8, while the loops on the needles 9 are transferred successively to the inwardly situated courses of the heel parts, which during the working are covered by the inner needles of the needle row part 8, as is described in my U. S. patent application No. 99,830 filed Sept. 8, 1936.

Fig, 4a shows a loop diagram corresponding to the dotted line rectangle in Fig. 1, and represents the courses 5 and 6 still connected together by two intermediate courses. When an intermediate course is out as is necessary, e. g. along the line shown, there is a danger that if the direction of thread laying and the sinking of the loops is as shown in Fig. 4a, the course 6 will become loosened, as this course must be transferred numerous times, say up to 60 times. In order to obviate this danger the course 6 which has to be run ;with its sinker loops on to the pointsv 9' of the auxiliary transfer bar or onto the needles of the section ,1, is produced from thread traversed towards the selvedged edge of the fabric as shown in Fig. 4b, the sinking of the loops being also of course effected in the same direction. At the same time, this course is formed as a slack course in order to, facilitate the well-known difficult running of the sinker loops on to the needles of the running-on device. It will thus be appreciated that the terminal loop at the selvedged edge of the fabric is a complete unbroken loop which is positively anchored in the fabric; the thread formingthe course of loops extending at the selvedged edge to produce the next subsequent course.

As also shown in Fig. 4b, the needle loops of the end course 5 of the high heel parts are produced from thread traversed in a direction opposite to that of the courses 6, i. e. towards the centre of the fabric; therefore the terminal loops of said courses 5 at the selvedged edges of the fabric are positively anchored in the fabric after cutting. The loops of courses 5 are run on to the points 8' .of the transfer device. The transfer device preferably comprises two superposed bar parts adapted to be swung into a straight line after the uncut blank has been run on. During the cutting, not only are the cut courses eliminated by separation, but also the connecting intermediate course or courses between them and the courses 5, are removed by ravelling, said connecting intermediate courses being normally disconnected from the adjoining instep portion in the manner well known in the art.

It is pointed out that the selvedge edge at the other side of the fabric, that is, the side opposite to the one shown has the same general construction as the selvedge edge illustrated in Figure 4b. However, because the thread or yarn travels back and forth in the knitting of-the fabric, the end course of the high heelpart and the initial course of the sole part at said other side of the fabric do not lay in the same courses as courses 5 and 6 herein shown but in adjoining courses. Nevertheless, it will be understood that at said other side of the fabric, the end course of the high heel part is produced from thread traversed towards the center of the fabric, and the initial course of the sole part in said other side is produced from thread. traversed towards the selvedge edge. Therefore, the topping courses at each side of the fabric while not in the same courses are of identical construction and consequently the same result will be had in the topping of said courses.

Fig. 5 shows some of the needles 8 and 9 appertaining to the section within the dotted line rectangle shown in Fig. 1. On the needles 8 hang the loops of the course 5 and on the needles 8 those of the course 6. The adjacent loops of the courses 5 and 6 on the needles 8a and 9a are not connected together. They are shown broken off for the sake of clearness. The threads of both courses 5 and 6 extend in different courses of the blank which is folded at this place.

If new heel courses I! are thereupon worked on to the end course 5 of the high heel parts, one of which is also shown in Fig. 5, and these are then connected to the initial courses of the sole parts by loop transfer, the defective connection in the heel corner still persists in the finished stocking.

Fig. 6 shows how by the new method according to the invention a strong connection is first provided between the adjacent run-on loops of the end courses of the high heels and the initial courses of the sole parts by loop transfer, before the first heel course is worked on In the present example, two loops of the initial courses of the sole part are transferred to the end course of the high heels before the first heel course i2 is worked. Fig. 7 clearly shows that even in the heel corner, a strong connection is necessarily produced and that the opening shown in Fig. 5 is closed.

In transferring the courses 6 to the selvedge loops of the newly knitted heel courses for the formation of the connection between the heel and sole parts, it is not expedient to connect each heel course with loops of the initial course of the sole parts, because this would produce excessively short heel parts. 0n the contrary, heel courses not connected to the initial courses of the sole parts must also be worked. A connection is thereby produced which has everywhere the same strength, but not the strength which is attained by connecting all the heel courses to the loops of the initial courses of the sole parts.

In the invention the method of transferring is therefore so modified that despite the limited number of loops of the initial courses of the sole parts, practically the same strength of the connection between the heel parts and the sole parts is attained as in the case of the connection of all the heel courses with the initial course of the loops of the sole parts. The invention is based on the fact that the connection of the heel parts and sole parts along the seam is not by any means subjected to uniform stresses, but the stress in the heel corner, that is to say in the vicinity of the ankle bone, and in the vicinity of the ball or base of the heel are substantially greater than in the connection part between the lower section of the heelcorncr and the lower side of the ball or base of the heel, i. e. within the range of the longitudinal seam of the stockins.

Accordingly, in this invention transfer is effected in such a manner that the connection formed is of varying strength adapted to the stresses occurring. To this end, transfer is carried out in such a manner that at the highly stressed points of the connect-ion heel courses are connected more frequently with loops of the initialcourses of the sole parts than at the points subjected to less stress, or at the more highly 3. A method of manufacturing stockings with stressed points, a greater number of loopsare transferred, or both steps are, applied simultaneously.

For example, at the more highlystressed points of the connection, each heel course may be connected to the loops of the initial course of the sole parts, while at the less stressed points, the connection is effected only after making one or more of the unconnected inter-mediate courses, or alternatively at the more highly stressed points, more loops of the sole parts are connected to the heel courses, while at the less stressed points, a smaller number of loops of the initial course of the sole parts are connected to the heel courses. The necessary length of the heel parts in this case is secured by working unconnected heel courses.

In Fig. 7, the connection made by loop transfer is shown at A, B, C, 1). The maximum stresses of the connection of the heel parts IS with the sole parts 4 occur in the heel corner, i. e. at A, and in the heel parts at D. The stresses between the points B and C are relatively small. An expedient connection, ensuring the necessary length of the heel parts is produced by connecting by transfer of each heel course with one or more loops of the initial courses of the sole parts along the sections A, B and C, D. On the section B, C each heel course is not connected to loops of the initial course of the sole parts, but between each transfer one or more heel courses are knitted which are not connected to the initial course of the loops ofthe sole-parts. The number of heel courses not connected depends upon the necessary length of the heel parts.

It is not, absolutely essential for the sections A, B and C, D, to be formed in a perfectly uniform manner. It is merely necessary that the connection should be particularly strong in the vicinity of the points A and D. Proceeding from these points, it may be made gradually looser in the direction towards the centre. i

Fig. 8 shows the loop diagram at the point B. Aswill be seen between the points A and B each heel row and from the point B off each alternate row is connected to the sole parts I claim: a i

l. A method of manufacturing stockings with' French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturnig the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, more heel courses being connected to the loops of the initial courses of the sqle parts in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than along other parts of the connection between said sole parts and said heel parts.

2. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, workingthe heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the courses of the sole .parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, more heel courses being connected to to loops of the courses of the sole parts in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than along other parts of the connection between said sole parts and said heel parts.

French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous .piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts 'on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, more loops being connected to loops of the sole parts in. each heel course in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than in other heel courses connected to the loops of the sole parts.

4. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in mam machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking said initial courses from the centre of the fabric towards the edge, more heel courses being connected to the loops of the initial coursesof the sole parts in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than along other parts of the connection between said sole parts and said heel parts.

5. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole :parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the than along other parts of the connection between i said sole parts and said heel parts.

6. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working theheel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops 9f the heel courses by transfer, and sinking the end courses of the high heel parts from the edge towards the centre of the fabric, more heel courses being connected to the loops of the initial courses of the sole parts in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than along other parts of the connection between said sole parts and said heel par s. i 7. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a con tinuous piece of fabric on a straight, bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking the end courses of the high heel parts from the edge towards the centre of the fabric, and forming said initial courses as slack courses, more heel courses being connected to the loops of the initial courses of the sole parts of the stocking than along other parts of the connection between said sole parts and said heel parts.

8. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight .bar knit ting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of 'the sole partsto loops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking said initial courses from the centre of the fabric towards the edge, more heel courses being connected to the loops of the courses of the sole parts in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than along other parts of the connection between said sole parts and said heel parts.

9. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking said initial coursw from the centre of the fabric towards the edge, and forming said initial courses as slack courses, more heel courses .being connected to the loops of the courses of the sole parts in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking thah along other parts of the connection between said sole parts and said heel parts.

10. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to.1oops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking the end courses of the high heel parts from the edge towards the centre of the fabric, more heel courses being connected to the loops of the courses of the sole parts in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than along other parts of the connection between said sole partsand said heel parts.

11. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a con-' tinuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the'high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking the end courses of the high heel parts from the edge towards the centre of the fabric, and forming said initial courses as slack courses, more heel courses being connected to the loops of the initial courses of the sole parts in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than along other parts of the connection between said sole parts and said heel parts.

I 12. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the for'mof a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking said initial courses from the centre of the fabric towards the edge, more loops being connected to loops of the sole parts in each heel course in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than, in other heel courses connected to the loops of the sole parts.

13. A method of manufacturin stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking said initial courses from the centre of the fabric towards the edge, and forming said initial courses as slack courses, more loops being connected to loops of the sole parts in each heel course in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than in other heel courses connected to the loops of the sole parts.

14. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial-courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking the end courses of the high heel partsfrom the edge towards the centre of the fabric, more loops being connected to loops of the sole parts in each heel course in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than in other heel courses connected to the loops of the sole parts.

'15. A method of manufacturing stockings with French heels and French feet consisting in manufacturing the leg and foot in the form of a continuous piece of fabric on a straight bar knitting machine, separating the high heel parts and the sole parts, working the heel parts on to the high heel parts, connecting the initial courses of the sole parts to loops of the heel courses by transfer, and sinking the end courses of the high heel parts from the edge towards the centre of the fabric, and forming said initial courses as slack courses, more loops being connected to loops of the sole parts in each heel course in the heel corner and on the longitudinal seam of the stocking than in other heel courses connected to the loops of the sole parts.

16. A stocking blank with French foot consisting of leg and foot formed as a single piece of fabric, wherein the high heel parts and the sole parts are separated for the introduction of heel parts and the initial courses of the sole parts are connected to loopspf the courses of the heel parts by transfer, and wherein at the more highly stressed parts of the connection between the heel parts and the sole parts more loops of said sole parts are connected to the heel courses than at the lesser stressed parts of the seam.

17. In a stocking of the character described, a knitted sole fabric and a-knitted heel fabric, a series of successive loops of one course in the sole fabric being interconnected with successive courses in the heel fabric and another series of successive loops of said course of the sole fabric being interconnected with spaced courses in said heel fabric.

ARNOLD FRIEDRICH VERBEEK.

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