US2245141A - Lady's slip - Google Patents

Description

June 10, 1941. BURGER LADYIS 5L1? Filed Dec. 1, 1939 INVENITQR Patented june '10, 194i LADYS SLIP Gladys Burger, Elmhurst, Long Island, N. Y., as-

signor to The Barbizon Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application December 1, 1939, Serial No. 307,053 1 2 Claims.

The invention relates to feminine apparel more particularly designated as ladies slips, which are garments worn next below the dress or outer garment and commonly over the so-called foundation garment which is designed to cling closely to the body, being generally made of rubber fabric for that purpose. The hang and fit of the outer garment dependsto a large extent upon the hang and fit of the slip which lies next under it and which for best efiect should in turn conform closely to the foundation garment so as to show no wrinkles or folds through the outer garment or dress. Slips tailored to personal'dimensions of course meet this requirement in the best degree but it can only be approximately met in the larger scale manufacture of ready-made garments, where the number of sizes is limited and each size is called upon to satisfy a wide range of variation of individual dimensions. a

This invention consists in the design and manner of assemblage of the united sections of a ladys slip so as to make a garment which for a particular size designation will accommodate an unusual range of variations of the female form with a hang and fit in each case approximating the individually tailored effect and in this respect dilfering from factory-made slips heretofore offered to the trade.

In the accompanying drawing, Fig. 1 illustrates the front of a slip according to this invention and in its preferred form, and Fig. 2 the back side of the same garment being shown in both cases as it appears laid flat on a table.

The slip comprises skirt and bust sections united by an intermediate section which will be herein designated as the waist section. The skirt section in its preferred form is made in two panels of which the front panel, marked l, extends around the sides and is attached by seams 2 to a narrow back panel 3 which is shorter than the front panel and sometimes of double thickness to constitute a so-called shadow panel. Both skirt panels are assembled on the bias, which is to say with their warp and filling yarns running in directions approximately 45 to vertical and preferably the warp yarns in these two panel slope in opposite directions.

The bust section is composed of front and back panels marked 4 and 5 respectively, united by vertical side seams indicated at 6, the front panel being somewhat wider than the back panel so that the scams 6 show in the back view when the garment is laid out flat as in Fig. 2. The upper edges of the panels of this section are contoured as customary or as desired and also seams l0 which are desirably continuations of the vertical seams 6 of the bust section. However constituted the fabric of the waist section is cut so that its filling and warp threads lie at about 45 to vertical,.and preferably withthe Warp of its back panel sloping in the same direction as that of the back skirt panel 3. It is also so cut that it is of considerably greater vertical dimension at the center of the back than it is at the sides or over the hips. Over the hips, it maybe not over 2" in height, while at the back it dips downward, and. preferably to a point such as indicated at H, where it meets and is attached to the top of the short back panel 3 of the skirt. As shown in Fig. 2, the latter is cut to an ogive contour so that its upright or vertical seams 2 converge to this same point ll. Thus formed the seam l2, which unites the waist section, in the back, to the top of the skirt section, slopes from the hips downwardly to the center point I l and preferably follows the line of a curve on each side of the center which is downwardly concave to such point. The geometrical designation of this contour of this scam is that of a cusp and it will be herein referred to as cuspated, it being noted that the sides of the cusp, if extended beyond the point ll, coincide or merge with the lines of the ogive skirt seams 2. The location and form of the seams particularly in the back are important factors in the attainment of the objects of the invention, since the seams in a garment of this kind function as the framework of the structure and to a large extent control the distribution of load, upon which all considerations of hanging or draping necessarily depend.

The front part of the seam [2 (Fig. 1) may run horizontally or otherwise as desired as this has little influence on the hang. It is shown as upwardly curved or cuspated which is a desirable shape.

The upper seam [4 by which the top of the waist section is attached to the bust section may run horizontally in the back or otherwise as desired. In the front this seam l4 may also run as desired being shown in the present case as parallel to front seam l2, so that it is also upwardly cuspated. This curvature for both front seams is preferred.

The fabric of which the waist section is made has suflicient looseness of texture so that the weight or pull of the skirt section tends to reduce or shrink its circumferential dimension and thus cause it to approach and hug the form of the wearer. The material ordinarily used in the manufacture of ladies slips is sufliciently loose for this purpose so that the Waist section can if desired be made of the same material as that. from which the bust and skirt sections are formed and the same as customary in the trade, Inasmuch as the bust and skirt sections also have their yarns disposed at 45, to'the vertical they are thus able to accommodate themselves to this circumferential contraction of the waist section, without any undue. wrinkling. While. theeffect of theskirt' weight alone tends. to conform the garment tofthe body, the considerably heavier strains which occur when. the wearer-is sitting also tend to the same effect. These are transmitted through the skirt seams. 2. to. the seam junction H. above referred to and there concentrated on the waist section at. its deepest point, tending still further to draw the latter. section into close contact-with the wearer, aslit were, improving the fit. It isufor this reason that the back panelfl3. is preferably. narrow so. that its seams 2 become thereby located in. substantially the vertical planes of thewearers legs.

In the drawing, the shading lines indicate the directionsjo'f. the warpandfilling. yarns in the fabric of, the several'panels and from them it will be observedthat by virtue of thecurvaturesindicated the curvedfportions of. the seams, and particularly of theseam l2, whichareth'e parts subject to the greatest, load, runfgenerally square to thejyarns ,of,the fabric, rather. than obliquely to them. This makes these curved seams firm and relatively inextensible, as will be understood, and thereby adapts them to preserve the original shape and fit. Also, and as will be understood, the several panels of the garment may be specially fabricated as desired, for example, the front of the bust section may be shirred to the waist section and the front skirt panel I may be darted along the lines I5 in the lines of the vertical seams 6 and ID, or elsewhere, and other formfitting and decorative expedients may also be employed as circumstances require, without departing from the principle of construction above disclosed.

I claim;

1. A ladys slip comprising bust and skirt sections united by an intermediate waist section, said waist section and the skirt section having their component yarns disposed at an angle of substantially 45 to vertical and united to each other by, a seam downwardly curving from the region of the hips to. a cusp at the back center and. said skirt section having vertical seams located in about the vertical planes of the wearerslegs and. ogivelyv convergent tothe point of thecusp.

2. A ladys slip comprising. bust and skirt sections connected byan intermediate waist section, said waist sectionand saidskirt section having their. componentyar-ns disposed at an angle of substantially 45? and beingunited to each other by a seam which curves downwardly inthe backfofithe garment from the-region of the hips to a cusp at thebackcenterofthe garment below thehips, and said skirt-section beingconstitute'd. of panels unitedby vertical seams located in the back of the garment inaboutthe planes of the wearers legs. and o gively convergent to the point of the-cusp, the warp yarns of the panels beingsloped inopposite directions.

GLADYS BURGER.

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