US2238048A - Machine and method for folding and fixing fabric blanks - Google Patents

Description

API 15, 1941- A. G. GILBERT I 2.238.048

MACHINE AND METHOD FOR FOLDING AND FIXING FABRIC BLANKS Filed July 7. 193s @ALA/, Tl li.

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ANVENTOR: @FP50 G, @a 55,9;

K BY Xml Patented Apr. 15, 1941 MACHINE AND METHOD FOR FOLDING AND FIXING FABRIC BLANKS Alfred G. Gilbert, South Acton, Mass., assignor to Reece Folding Machine Company, Cambridge, Mass., acorporation of Maine Application July 7, 1938, Serial No. 217,860

11 Claims.

`This invention relates to machines and methods for folding and iixingfab-ric blanks, having reference to the infolding or refolding of various fabric parts or articles, composed of wool, cotton, silk or other cloth or fabric. More especially the disclosed invention relates to the fol-ding of parts of. garments in the process of manufacture, such as portions of suits, pockets, welts, collars, bands, and any others that require to be definitely folded and creased, for example preparatory to being stitched to other parts of the garment.

Fabric folding and creasing machines are usually of automatic character, frequently comprising a bed which carries a top plate or pad for `supporting the blanks, and usually a templet or die constituting means for defining the edge or edges to be folded, along with folders or folding plates which are moved over the bed plate to fold .the goods, and which frequently then take partv in the squeezing of the folds by reason of means for pressing downwardly the folders to squeeze the material, while the thin templet still occupies the folds, or after lits extraction Examples of such machines are the patents of Dixon No.. 956,950 of May 3, 1910, and No. 1,979,872 of November 6,Y 1934, and the patent of Gilbert No.2,0'59,335 of November 3, 1936.

:Such folding machines however have not been Well adapted to do certain classes of Work, for which the present` invention is especially designed. For example in the' folding of welts for vests the prevailing mode is manual. The operator has first .to soap the ends or edges of each welt, fold them by hand, and press them with a hot flatiron. The soap acts as an adhesive to make the infoldedl edges stick down, whichwis essential. This method is relatively costly in labor,` and isinefcient, as well as being inaccurate, resulting in lack of uniformity in size or length of product, which causes difficulties for the stitching` operator who has later to sew the welt to the lining or other parts of the vest. But Without soap or adhesive another difculty confronts the stitcher, the tendency to creep, with a gathering motion of the fold upon the body that occurs during stitching of suitings and `Woolen goods, `this defect sometimes showing as a wrinkle on the finished garment.

TheA general object of the present invention is to improve the folding and fixing of various,

fabric blanks, particularlyby affording greater accuracy and eiiiciency, and, as compared with hand. methods, affording increased capacity and production and reduced costs. A further object is to adapt fabric folding lmachines to' the special class of work mentioned, and to dispense with the manual Soaping operation and avoid the other drawbacks mentioned. These objects are herein attained by designing the templet and folding members to the work lin hand, and combining with the aforesaid folding and pressing means a means for moistening the goods in a practical and effective way, during direct pressing, all under automatic operation `or control. Other and further objects and advantages will be explained in the hereinafter followingdescription of an illustrative embodiment of the invention or will be understood by those conversant With the subject.

In the accompanying drawing IFig. 1 is a more or less diagrammatic e1evation and vertical section View of the relevant parts of a folding machine embodying the present invention.4

Fig. 2, in the same view as Fig. 1, shows a portion thereof, with a modified or adjustable form of cam.

Fig. 3 is a partial elevation view looking at the right hand side of Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 showing certain details, with the adjustable forni of cam.

Fig. 4 is a view corresponding with a part of Fig. 1,' but showing the moist squeezing of the infolds after the templet has been slid bodily out.

Fig. 5 is a similar View of a Ymodification Wherein the templet is of the collapsible form and is shown as having contracted out of the folds.

Fig. 6 is a face View of an illustrative or conventional form of blank as folded and fixed according to this invention.

The apparatus will first be described, and the method indicated and subsequently set forth.

The drawing being diagrammatic many general parts are omitted and the machine frame is not shown except to the extent that the parts 5 and 25 to -be described are stationary and constitute substantial parts of the frame. The machine bed 5 is usually a fixed part and may be hollow, containing a steam chamber 6, such as is long well known and shown for example in said Patent No. 956,950, for maintaining hot the bed and the blank supporting plate above thereby toassist the creasing of the goods. A steam inlet or supply 1 is indicated, bringing the hot Vapor to the steam chest.

As an illustrative example a fabric blank is indicated, tobe folded in at its opposite edges and perhaps other edges. This blank is shown resting upon a hot plate or pad 9 which is at the sition. Fig. shows the collapsible kind of tem- Y plet, with opposite defining plates II]a on stems Il, caused to approach each other to leave the folds unoccupied between the squeezing members.

Cooperating with the blank support 9 and the defining templet I0 are shown infolders I2. These for example may normally rest at a level somewhat below the top of the supporting -plate 9 as shown in dotted lines, Each folder is kept constantly hot by its proximity to the heated sup-port and by the release of steam as to be described. Automatic folding mechanism, not shown, but of a general character indicated in said prior patents, may operate first to lift the folders to clear the support and templet and then to move them inwardly to the full line positions shown, thus forming the folds. These two motions are indicated by arrows a and b, and a third arrow c indicates the later lowering of the folders to squeeze and fix the folded -blanks between the folders and the supporting plate. Such folder movements are indicated in said Patents Nos.

1,979,872 and 2,059,335.

To improve the folding and fixing operations it is desirable to treat the fabric adjacent to the place or places of folding so that the folds can be firmly fixed and anchored down and will hold this condition for a substantial period. Soaping the fabric is undesirable or impractcable, and the preparation of the fabric is hereby accomplished by the application of hot steam to moisten the proper parts of the articlewhile it rests on the folding support. y

'Ihe purpose of the steam treatment herein is to soften the `fibers of the fabric so that they may stick together and the folded and pressed material will retain its condition until the later stitching is `attended to. Preferably the steam is caused to permeate the fabric or is internally sprayed while the fabric is conned between the support below and the folders or corresponding hot part above the goods. It is not necessary to moisten the entire blank so long as the por- 'tions at and near the folds are treated so that a substantial width of -blank body and fold are softened while in mutual face contact.

By the present invention the steam is applied from beneath, that is, through the support and into the thin chamber or flat space between each folder and the support. The folder above acts as a wall or hot baffle holding the steam confined-beneath, so that it can only seep or flow laterally, impeded by the fabric itself. The infolded fabric margin and the fabric body beneath in mutual contact are thus thoroughly and intimately moistened, so that the fixing pressure is very effective in rendering permanent the fold. The fibers take a set causing the two portions to adhere and hold their position as well for usual purposes as if stuck by an adhesive or soap. Permanent fixation is unnecessary so long as the infold adheres iiatly to the body for `a few hours.

The illustrated embodiment `of these principles is described as follows. The blank support 9 is small steam jet holes appropriately distributed and directed upwardly to deliver directly into the fabric overlying the plate. If desired these perforations may be restricted to the part 0f the plate which is adjacent to the folds to be formed and fixed. To supply :the hot moisture or steam to the perforations I3 the plate is shown formed with interior passages I4. By this arrangement the supplying of steam to the passages I4 at the proper times causes the desired moistening of the fabric in assistance to the fixing and anchoring of the folds.

The supplying of steam to the interior passages I4 may be in different ways. There is shown a steam duct I5 formed in .the top wall of the bed 5, this duct leading upwardly through central or other ports in the bed top wall and registering ports in the plate 9. In alinement with the bed wall duct I5 is an exterior duct I6, formed for example in a separate casting I6a attached to the side of the machine bed. As a means of supplying steam to the ducts I6 and I5 there is shown a steam passage I'I leading from the chamber 6 to the duct I6; but the supply might be otherwise.

It is desirable that fthe iiow of steam to the perfonations I3 be under timed control and to secure this object a valve I8 is shown controlling .the steam flow into and through the ducts I6 and I5. The valve I8 is shown in the form of a plunger or rod slidable in the duct I6 to and from a point beyond the junction of the passage Il therewith. As shown the Valve I8 is closed, but adapted to be opened by lowering it as will be described.

Various kinds of steam valve may be provided for the purpose but the plunger valve I8 shown is convenient. Its outside extension or rod is provided with a collar I9 from which extends upwardly a tension spring 20 adapted normally to lift and close the valve. At another or lower point the plunger or rod I8 carries a head 2I which may be made adjustable in its position on the rod to vary 4the action of the valve. The valve is openedby depressing the head 2I and thus lowering the plunger i8 and this Iis shown as effected by means of a valve lever or cam lever 22, the forked end of which straddles the plunger above the head 2|, so that by swinging down the lever the valve is opened. A stop 2|a may be arranged to limit the upward valve movement, for example, by stopping the rise of the lever 22.

The valve lever 22 is shown fulcrumed on a preferably fixed stud 23. The stud 23 is mounted at the lower end of a fixed or bracket member 24 the upper end of which is attached to a fixed frame rod 25. To anchor the lower end of the bracket 24 it has an extension 26 which carries a screw 26a attaching it to a collar 21 mounted on a suitable part as an operating shaft 28. lThe collar 21 is loose on the shaft and confined by a fast collar 21a at one side and a cam hub 30 at the other side, as Fig. 3 shows.

The valve lever 22 is thus mounted on the fixed-position stud 23 and may be lowered and allowed to rise under timed control, preferably by a rotary cam for example as follows. Upon an operating shaft 28, which may be one of lthe main shafts, making one turn per cycle, is the sub 30 of a valve cam 3I. This cam is generally concentric but at one part of its periphery is formed with a rise 32 followed by a dwell 33 and then a drop 34 back to the original level as on Fig. 1 shown. On the cam lever 22 is a follower or roll 35 adapted to be engaged by the cam parts shown as provided with perforations I3, being 32, 33 and 34, serving .to depress the follower and the lever, thereby to lower the plunger I8 and hold open the valve for a period of time determined by the length of the cam dwell 3L The cam 3| is so designed as to open the steam valve just before or 4as the folders move in to form the folds and to close it as or preferably just before the squeezing pressure ceases. The duration may be varied as desired and may be altered by changing the cam. The rate of steam flow, determined by the extent of opening of the valve, may be varied by adjusting the valve rod head 2l up or down. If desir-ed the valve may be widely opened in each operation and without regulation of the degree to which vthe plunger It uncovers the port or exit of passages Il into IB, the fabric itself restraining undue steam flow,

In Figs. 2 and 3 an adjustable cam 31 is shown, attached movably to the hub 30 on shaft 28, and having a rise 33, dwell 39 and drop 40, to open, hold open and close the valve, but these may merge into a continuous curve or arc. For adjusting the valve, it has slots 4| which are parallel and are engaged b-y machine screws or bolts 42 threaded into the hub 30. By moving the cam further from the center the valve may be opened further and longer and Vice Versa.

The illustrative embodiments afford the objects and advantages sought. The manufacturingfcost of Soaping, hand-turning and hand pressing may be substantially halved by the automatic folding, steaming and `fixing of this invention. Absolute uniformity of folding and pressing is attained, resulting in economies in the later operations. Various changes of structure `and operation may be made within the principles of the invention.

As a modification, the steam connections may be from the bed chest 5 directly upwardly through its top wall and thence to the perforations, e. g. through a slide valve by which flow can be cut off normally, the top wall and pad plate 9 for ex ample having registering perforations closable by a short sliding shift of the plate.

The above described improvement is adaptable to so-called multiple folding, for example the simultaneous folding and fixing of three or more blanks of woolen cloth to form welts for vests, a plan shown in copending application No. 294,636, led September 13, 1939. As applied to the present improvement the several welt blanks are laid on the bed or pad, the templet is positioned thereon, the folding performed, the templet eX- tracted, and while the blanks are briefly steamed through body and fold a fixing pressure is maintained; after which the blanks are removed, forming the three or four welts needed for the making of a. single vest. In this manner of manufacture the present invention, involving moist `pressing of the blanks, is of particular advantage, since it permits the folds of a blank suiting material to be caused to remain fixed or adhere to the body of the blank, without applied adhesive, preventing reopening before the subsequent stitching, and during stitchingpreventing creeping, gathering and wrinkling of the goods.

The method involved comprises, after infolding, subjecting the blank 8 at each infold to high squeezing pressure while confined in intimate face Contact` against the body between the pressure members 9 and I2 maintained at high tempera ture, and` forcing or admitting steam or moisture between the pressure members to permeate and meisten both the infold and body where they mutually contact at their margins inwards of the boundary edge of the infolded blank; therebyto cause fiber engagement and consequent direct adherence between the fabric infold and body over a substantial width of infold, wherebythe fold isilxed without the need of applied adhesive. In the preferred method the applicationof steam is discontinued slightly before the release of the pressure, so that the mutually contacting infold and body, while still under hot confine* ment, are permitted to dry at least sufficiently to ensure continued fiber interengagement and direct adherence between fold and body after removal of the formed and fixed blank. The apparatusI in broad aspect comprises the machine elements and their operating means permitting or bringing about the method steps so outlined.

What is claimed is:

1. The method of forming and xing infolds on fabric blanks which comprises, after the infolding of each blank, subjecting the blank at each infold to high squeezing pressure while the blank infold is confined in intimate face contact against the blank body between pressure members maintained at high temperature, and forcing and admitting moisture or steam between the pressure members to permeate and moisten both the infold and the body where they mutually contact inwards of the boundary edge of the infolded blank, thereby to cause fiber engagement and consequent direct adherence between the fabric infold and body over a substantial width of infold, whereby the fold is fixed without theneed of applied adhesive.

2. The method as in claim 1 and wherein the moisture is applied by forcing steam under pressure through perforations leading to the fabric, and wherein, during the time of hot connement of the blank, the steam is first admitted and then cut off to permit drying before release and re'- moval of the blank.

3. The method as in claim 1, and wherein the method is performed in an apparatus comprising `a blank dening member cooperating with the pressure members, one of the latter being a folder, and the method comprises the extracting of the deiiner from the blank fold to leave the fold unoccupied during the squeezing pressure between the pressure members.

4. The method of forming and fixing infolds on fabric blanks which comprises, after the infolding of each blank, subjecting the blank at each infold to high squeezing pressure while the blank infold is coni-ined in intimate face contact against the blank body between pressure members maintained at high temperature, applying moisture to permeate the blank at its marginal portion whereby both the infold and the body are caused to lie in moistened condition inwards of the boundary edge of the infolded blank over a substantial width of infold, and discontinuing the application of moisture in advance of the release of the pressure, whereby the mutually said bed member and folder` member having means to heat them and being adapted to be forced relatively together to apply hot squeezing pressure upon the body and folds of the blank confined in mutual face contact between the members after the removal of the templet, one of said members being provided with steam perforations located to deliver steam toward the other of said members -directly into the fabric of the blank enclosed between them inwards of the f folded edge thereof to effect the internal moistening both of the fabric body and the infold adjacent to the folded edge thereof, and valved means adapted to deliver steam to said perforations to be applied internally to each folded blank to moisten its mutually contacting body and fold while being confined and squeezed between said hot members, but to cut off the delivery steam in advance of the release of the hot confinement, whereby the folds remain fixed after removal from the machine.

6. In a machine for folding and fixing fabric blanks or like articles, in combination, a bed member for supporting the blanks to be folded, a templet to define the edges to be folded, and folding means comprising a folder member movable above the bed for folding each blank defined thereon, said templet being removable from the blank infolds while confined between bed and folder, said bed member and folder member having means to heat them and being adapted to be forced relatively together to apply hot squeezing pressure upon the body and folds of the blank enclosed in mutual face contact between them after the removal of the templet, one of said` and perforations to be applied internally to each l folded blank to moisten its contacting body and fold while being squeezed between said members, thereby to cause the fold to hold its position close to the blank body, and remain fixed after removal from the machine, without application of v adhesive.

7. A fabric blank infolding machine of the kind having a support and an infolder movable thereover, with means to heat them, a fold defining member adapted to be extracted from the fold to leave the fold between the support and infolder,

and means to effect squeezing of each folded blank while the blank body and infold are in mutual fact contact between the hot support and infolder; and characterized by the provision of means to admit steam directly into the fabric between the support and the infolder thereby to permeate and moisten both the blank body and infold over a substantial width of the infold, while confined in face contact under the hot pressure, combined with timed control means adapted rst to start the admission of steam, thereby to soften the fibers of the mutually contacting body and infold and cause the fibers under the hot pressure to interengage, and then to cut off the steam admission before the release of the pressure, thereby to provide a period for the fabric to dry under the heat and so cause the body and infold to adhere by fiber engagement, without application of adhesive, and to 75.

continue in such adherence after removal from between the pressure members.

8. In a machine for folding and fixing fabric blanks or like articles, in combination, a bed member for supporting the blanks to be folded, a templet to denne the edges to be folded, and folding means comprising a folder member movable above the bed for folding each blank defined thereon, said templet being extractible out of the blank infolds while leaving them confined between the bed and folder members, said bed member and folder member having means to heat them and being adapted to be forced relatively together to apply hot squeezing pressure upon the body and infolds of the blank enclosed in mutual face contact between said members after the removal of the templet, said bed member being provided with a steam passage and formed with steam perforations located and directed to deliver steam toward the folder member acting as a baille directly into the fabric of the blank enclosed between them and inwards of the folded edge thereof to effect the internal moistening of the fabric body and infold adjacent to the folded edge thereof, and a valve adapted to deliver steam to said passage and perforations to be applied internally to each folded blank to render moist its contacting body and fold while being squeezed between said hot members, and adapted to be shut off before release of squeezing pressure, thereby to cause the infold to adhere to the blank body, by liber engagement, without application of adhesive.

9. A machine as in claim 8 and wherein is automatic means moving in time with the defining, folding and pressing operations of the machine and having connections for opening and closing said valve coordinated to afford a short duration of valve opening and steam delivery during the time the folded blank lies under pressure between the hot bed and folder members; said automatic means being arranged to close the valve and cut off the steam slightly before the squeezing pressure is released.

10. In a machine for folding and fixing fabric blanks or like articles, in combination, a bed having a top surface or plate constituting a supporting member for the blanks to be folded and fixed, a templet adapted to define the folds and to withdraw therefrom while on said support member, folding means comprising one or more folder members movable above the blank support member or bed for folding each blank thereon, said support member and folder member being adapted to be forced relatively together with a squeezing action to apply fixing pressure upon the folds of the blank enclosed in mutual contact between them, one of said members being provided with a steam passage and formed with steam perforations directed to deliver steam toward the other of said members and therefore directly into the fabric of the blank enclosed between them to effect the internal moistening of the fabric body and fold -adjacent to the position of each folded edge thereof and for a substantial width of the fold, an exterior steam supply duct arranged to deliver to said passage and perforations, and a normally-closed valve arranged to control steam flow in said duct and adapted to be opened at such time as to release steam to be applied internally to the folded blank while enclosed between said members, thereby to cause the fold to adhere to the blank body; together with automatic means moving in time with the machine including connections for opening and closing said valve and coordinated to afford a short duration of valve opening and steam release during the time the folded blank liesI between the support and folder members; said automatic means including a rotary cam with follower and connections to the valve and means to adjust the vtiming thereof.

11. In a machine for folding and fixing fabric blanks or like articles, in combination, a bed having a top surface or plate constituting a supporting member for the blanks to be folded and fixed, a templet adapted to define the folds and to withdraw therefrom while on said support member, folding means comprising one or more folder members movable above the blank support member or bed for folding each blank thereon, said support member and folder member being adapted to be forced relatively together with a squeezing action to apply fixing pressure upon the folds of the blank enclosed in mutual contact between them, one of said members being provided with a steam passage and formed with steam perforations directed to deliver steam toward the other of said members and therefore directly into the fabric of the blank enclosed between them to effect the internal moistening of the fabric body and fold adjacent to the position of each folded edge thereof and for a substantial Width of the fold, an exterior steam supply duct arranged to deliver to said passage and perforations, and a normally-closed Valve arranged to control steam flow in said duct and adapted to be opened at such time as to release steam to be applied internally to the folded blank while enclosed between said members, thereby to cause the fold to adhere to the blank body; together with automatic or cam means moving in time with the machine having vconnections for opening and closing said valve and coordinated to afford a short duration of Valve opening and steam release during the time the folded blank lies under pressure between the support and folder members; said automatic means including means to adjust the timing and duration of each operation of the valve and its degree of opening.

ALFRED G. GILBERT.

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