US2221320A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

NOV. 12, 1940. F ASHWORTH. 2,221,320

SEWING MACHINE v Filed Jung 2o, 1959 3 sheets-sheet 1 www Nn NNN www Nov. 12, 1940. F. AsHwoR-rH SEWING MACHINE' Filed June 2o,- 1939 F. ASHWORTH lSEWING MACHINE Nov. 12, 1940.

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Patented Nov. 12, 1940 UNITED sTATEs .SEWING MACHINE Fred Ashworth, `Wenham, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. J., a corporation o! New Jer- Sey Application June zo, 1939, serial No. 280,138

17 claims. (ci. 11e-so) The present invention relates to sewing machines of the type designed for use in uniting the top or-tongue part and the vamp or side part of a true or imitation moccasin or of a moccasin type shoe. An example of such a machine is disclosed in U. S. Letters Patent of the present inventor No. 1,950,386 of March 13, 1934.

The objects of the present invention are to improve the construction and mode of operation l0 in a machine of the type disclosed in the patent referred to, in such a way that a more satisfactory seam will be formed with the exercise of less skill and ability on the part of the operator than heretofore required.

Before sewing together the top part and vamp of a moccasin or of a moccasin type shoe, the parts are beveled at an acute angle and secured temporarily together, preferably with the surfaces along the beveled edges as closely as possible to the registering relation in which the parts are to be permanently sewed. In sewing the beveled parts of a moccasin with the use of the patented machine, the registering beveled edges are clamped between a work supporting block and a presser, the block being formed with surfaces disposed atpan acute angle and with peri forations to receive the stitch-forming devices including a needle movable across 'and at a xed distance from the apex of the angle of the block.

With this arrangement the distance between the apex of the angularly disposed surfaces ofthe block and the 4needle remains the same at all times while the moccasion parts assume positions along the angular surfaces of the block determined by the engagement of the beveled edges with each other rather than by the relation of the extreme edges of the parts with the apex of the angular surfaces or with the needle.

40 For this reason, the distance between the extreme edges of the parts and the seam line where the parts are beveled sharply to a knife-like feather will be greater than where blunter extreme edges are formed by the bevelling operation. As a result, if the beveling operation is performed in an irregular manner, the seam may not have a uniform or pleasing appearance. When the edges of the upper are extremely blunt, the upper may even escape the stitch-forming devices entirely so that the seam will be faulty. A further object of the invention therefore is Y to provide a moccasin sewing machine in which the seam line will be guided at a uniform distance from the extreme edges along the bevels 55 of the moccasin parts regardless of the thickness of the parts or of the manner in which the bevel on the parts is prepared.

With these and other objects in view, the present invention relates to the provision in a moccasin sewing machine for inserting .a seam through the registering bevel edges of moccasin top and vamp parts in which a back gage is employed to guide the seam, of means for supporting and clamping the parts in angular relation to each other with the extreme edges along 0 the registering beveled surfaces in uniform engagement with the back gage so that the seam will be guided uniformly along a line intersecting the surfaces of the levels. In the present embodiment of this feature, the clamping means comprises a presser, a work support and a presserfoot, the work support and presser-foot being separable and having angularly disposed surfaces to receive between them the marginal portions of the moccasin parts, mechanism for actuating the presser and presser-foot in the illustrated form of this feature being provided to clamp and release the parts during each sewing cycle. By such an arrangement, the angular space between the supporting surfaces of the work support and presser-foot may change as the parts are guided past the back gage so that when the extreme edges of the bevels become blunter the parts may hold the presser-foot away from the work support and, when the extreme edges become sharper, the presser-foot will move towards the work support without affecting the clamping action.

In the patented machine the presser Ais secured to a horn pivotally mounted to turn about an approximately vertical axis and, as the moccasin swings during sewing, the horn which enters the ankle opening of the moccasin is turned by the operator. According to a further feature of the present invention, yielding horn turning means is provided to assist the operator, the yielding means being held inactive by a quickly releasable device.

Other features of the invention relate to Vim-v 45 provements in the presser itself so that' as it clamps the parts it will conform with irregularities in` the thickness of the work, to improve-v ments in the construction of the horn to renderr it adaptable for use with a wide range of v50 moccasin styles and sizes, and tothe useof im- 'proved feed adjusting devices for permitting the" insertion of the initial stitch in a moccasin seam closer than heretofore to the end of the lregistering portions of the moccasin parts. '55

In addition to the features above referred to, the present invention also consists in certain novel devices, combinations, and arrangements of parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 is a view in side elevation of a portion of a machine embodying the several features of the invention illustrating the manner oi' operation on a moccasin; Figure 2 is a detail view of the work engaging portions of the machine illustrating the manner of operation on a moccasin of substantially smaller size than that indicated in Figure 1; Figure 3 is a sectional plan view taken along the line 3-3 of Figure 1; Figure 4 is a view in side elevation of some of the parts illustrated in Figure 1 on a somewhat enlarged scale, and partly in section; Figure 5 is a sectional plan View of some of the parts illustrated in Figure 4, taken along the line 5-5; Figure 6h is a detail view on a further enlarged scale taken in section along the line 6-6 of Figure 5; Figure 'I is a detail view of a portion of the connections for adjusting the relative relation of the presserfoot and presser as seen along the line 'I-'I of Figure 4; Figure 8 is a detail plan view on an enlarged scale of the back gage in the machine; Figure 9 is a detail plan view, partly in section, of the feed controlling mechanism of the machine; Figure 10 is a detail view of the automatic feed controlling lever of the machine having its lower end indicated in section; Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure 9 illustrating a moccasin or 'the parts of the feed controlling mechanism in the positions which they assume during the rst sewing cycle before the needle i-lrst pieces the work; Figure 12 is a detail view on an enlarged scale of the work support and presser-foot in the machine illustrating the positions taken during sewing of moccasin parts, the edges of which have been beveled to a sharp angle; and Figure 13 is a similar View illustrating the positions taken by moccasin parts, the edges of which have been beveled at a blunter angle.

'I'he machine illustrated in the drawings is a lockstitch machine for sewing beveled marginal portions of the top and vamp parts of a moccasin together with their beveled surfaces in registration and is similar, except as hereinafter indicated, to the machines disclosed in the present inventors prior patent above identified, and also in Patent No. 1,169,909 of February 1, 1916. This machine is provided with a curved hook needle 2, a curved awl 4, a rotary hook or loop taker 6 which passes loops of needle thread over a locking thread case, the needle and awl being actuated through suitable connections from driving shafts 8 and I0, and the awl being arranged to move laterally while engaging the work to feed the work. The awl is secured to a carrier I2 (see Fig. 9) which is slidable and rotatable in bearings in the machine frame, the ends of the carrier being engaged by connected feed levers I4 and I6 fulcrumed on fixed studs I8 and respectively. The parts thus referred to and the other stitch-forming devices with their actuating mechanism are the same as in the machines of the patents.

To prepare the edges of the moccasin parts, the parts are out at an acute angle, the extreme edges forming more or less sharp feathers according to the angle of the cut. The vamp part of the moccasin, as indicated at 22 in Figs. 12

and 13 in some cases is cut by means of a band knife while secured on a last so that the-angle of the bevel may vary at different points along the edge. After being cut accurately to shape, the tongue part, indicated at 24, is fitted against the vamp with the bevel surfaces in registration and temporarily secured by cement until sewn. To sew moccasin parts having bevels forming sharp angles, as in Figure l2, the machine of inventors prior patent has a solid work supporting block provided with a V-cut having angularly disposed work engaging surfaces so arranged that the extreme edges of the beveled moccasin parts extend to the apex of the V with the needle passing across and inside the apex of the angle of said surfaces. In sewing moccasin parts having relatively blunt angles, as in Figure 13 on that machine, the extreme edges do not extend to the apex of the V so that the seam is inserted closer to the extreme edges than when there is a sharper angle at the edges of the moccasin parts.

In order to guide the extreme edges of the registering beveled surfaces of the moccasin parts 22 and 24, the machine of the present invention is provided with a work support 26 having a back gage 28 mounted thereon, a separable presserfoot, 30 and a presser in addition to the presserfoot arranged-to act on the inner surfaces of the parts and to hold them with their edges against the back gage. foot are formed with work engaging surfaces disposed at an acute angle with relation to each other between which the beveled edges of the top part and vamp are forced by the presser and clamped in positions such that the needle will pass across the apex of the angle. To enable the work to be guided by the back gage regardless of the degree to which the edges are beveled, the presser-foot releases the moccasin parts during the feeding movements of the awl and clamps and holds the parts during the penetrating movements of the awl and needle. Where the parts are beveled to a sharp extreme edge, the parts may be held against the back gage without moving the presser-foot away from the work support, the relations of the parts being indicated in Fig. l2. Where the bevel of the parts is at a less acute angle, the extreme edges are blunter and thicker so that they separate the presserfoot further from work support as indicated in Figure 13. By permittingseparation of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces on the presser-foot from the work support with different angles along the bevel of lthe parts, the distance between the extreme edges and the seam line is kept uniform.

The mechanism for actuating the presser-foot in this manner is the same a-s in Patent No. A1,169,909 and includes a presser-foot supporting lever 32, fulcrumed on a shaft 34, a link 36 connected by meanshereinafter described to a downwardly extending arm of the lever 32 and to a floating lever 38, a presser-foot locking device 40 pivotally connected to the central part of the floating lever 38 and a cam actuated lever 42 connected adjustably through a link 44 with the upper end of the oating lever 38. The mecha-i nism is so arranged that when the awl and needle penetrate the work the presser-foot is locked in position, the presser engaging and clamping the inner surfaces of the moccasin parts at the same time.

'I'he presser issimilar to that disclosed in the prior Patent No. 1,950,386 and comprises a rotary disk having conical work engaging sur- The work support and pressera forwardly and downwardly curved horn 46.

' However, in place of the rigid metal disk of the patented machine, the present machine has a disk composed in part by a washer 48 of compressible leather secured between two circular metallic backing plates 50. .When irregularities in thickness of the moccasin parts occur, the two plates may move slightly to conform with the `inner surfaces of the parts so that a rm grip will be-maintained at all times Vdrlfboth parts.

The horn is pivotally mounted on the present machine in a manner similar to that in the patent to turn freely about a substantially vertical axis at right angles to the line formed by the apex of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work-support and presserfoot. The presser disk 4is mounted on the horn in alignment with the pivotal axis of the horn, the horn projecting through the ankle opening of the moccasin so that when the moccasin is rotated as the seam is being sewed, the horn may rotate on its axis to follow the movements of the moccasin.

The connections for supporting and actuating the horn on the illustrated machine include the bracket 5I secured to the machine frame by a ,bon 52x and a tubu1ar nxture 54 which 1s arranged'to receive an electrical heating unit for the loop taker 6. A pair of forwardly extending arms on the bracket 5I form bearings for a shaft 56 having clamped to it a yoke 58. The yoke 58 carries pointed pins 60 and 62, best shown in Figure 4, which form the pivotal mountings for a block 63 to which the horn '46 is secured.

To cause the presser to cooperate with the presser-foot in clamping and releasing the work intermittently during the -sewing operation, the shaft 56 which supports the yoke 58 has at one end an arm 64 connected by means of a link 66 with one arm of a three-armed lever 68 rotatable on the shaft 34. A downwardly extend` ing arm of the lever 68 is pivotally connected to the link 36 and is adjustably connected with the presser-foot lever 32 so that when the presser-foot is actuated corresponding movements will be imparted to the horn and presser. To actuate the presser-foot yieldingly against the work, the lower end of the floating lever 38 is connected through a link with a presser-foot spring 12, the arrangement being such that when the device 40 is unlocked, the spring 12 causes the presser-'foot to engage Ithe work and, when the device is locked and the cam lever 42 actuated, the presser-foot will release the work.

To cause the presser to be forced against the inside surfaces o f the top andvamp parts with au iirm yielding pressure in the illustrated machine, the force of the presser-foot spring 12 alone acting through the horn actuating connections with some types of work is insuiiiciently strong and, consequently, there is secured to the end of the shaft 56 opposite the arm 64, an arm 14 engaged at its free end by a compression spring 16 supported on an adjustable screw stud 18 threaded in the machine frame. To prevent movement of the presser into the path of the needle and awl, the yoke 58 has a finger which is engaged by a set screw 19 threaded in the .bracket 5l.

With the yielding movement of both the presserand the presser- foot springs 12 and 16 acting to clamp the moccasin parts, the parts' are securely held in proper positions during passage of the needle` and awl, and irregularities in both l tance from the extreme edges ofthe parts.

the thickness and variation of bevel angle along the edges of the parts is taken care or. When the presser-foot is actuated to release the parts,

the edges -of theparts are readilymaintained' in guiding engagement with the back gage. Thus the seam is inserted always at a uniform dis- Also the position of the back gage may be changed Without requiring complicated adjustments of the mechanism for actuating the presser and presser-foot. i

To permit the position of the back gage to be changed readily, the back gage is constructed in the form of a lever fulcrumed on a vertical pin 80 (see Fig. 8) secured in the work support. The back gage has a convex work engaging surface opposite the point of needle operation, and to hold the back gage lever in adjusted position, the work support has threaded into it' a clamping screw 82 passing througha slot in the lever vat the end opposite the work engaging surface.

That portion of the presser-foot directly above the back gage is recessed suiliciently to clear the back gage and to allow the angularly disposed 32 by'a screw 845I threaded in the downwardly extending arm of the lever 68 (see Fig. 7,). The inner end of the screw has projecting 'from it an eccentric pin portion engaging a slot formed in the downwardly projecting arm of the lever 32 so that, when the screw 84 i's rotated in the lever (i8, the relative positions of the levers will be changed, a clamping bolt 86 in the A,lever 68 being provided to hold the screw 84 in adjusted position. y

In sewing moccasins lof diiierent sizes on the machine of applicants prior patent, it has been found necessary with different' sizes of moccasins to employ two or more horns having diierent curvatures, each being adapted for use with moccasins within a narrow range of sizes. When a horn having one curvature is employed with a smaller size of moccasin than that for which it is designed, the heel portion of the moccasin strikes against the shankv portion of the horn and prevents the moccasin from being supported in the machine without distorting it from its natural shape. If a larger size of moccasin is sewed, the tongue part of the moccasin will be distorted. It is, therefore, necessary lto substitute one horn for another when sewing a full range of moccasin sizes. y

To permit sewing, on the machine of the present invention, a relatively large range of moccasin sizes without changing one horn for another, the horn 46 is offset with a reverse curvature so that the offset portion of the horn may extend through the ankle opening of a small size moccasin (see Fig. 2), and may extend with the offset portion entirely inside a large size moccasin, as in Figure 1, without distorting the natural shape of the moccasin. When sewing a large size moccasin, the major portion of the horn is enclosed within the moccasin, as in Figure` l, so that it is, difficult for the operator to grasp and turn the horn on its pivotal mounting from the solid line position of Figure 4 to the dot-dash line position as the sewing progresses. To assist the operator in turning the horn in the present machine, the block 63 on which the horn is mounted has connected to it a housing 88 enclosing a helical spring 90, one end of which is made fast to the housingand the other end to a sleevelike portion extending from a circular plate 92 clamped to the pivot pin 60. The spring 3l tends to turn the horn 48 from left to right so that as the sewing progresses, the horn will a1- ways be maintained against the right hand inner surface of the moccasin. To prevent the horn from being rotated by the spring 90 while the moccasin is being applied to the machine and until the first few stitches are inserted, the housing 88 has a lug carrying a latch pin 94 arranged to cooperate with a latch arm 96 secured to a horizontal shaft 98 rotatably mounted in the bracket 5|. When the horn is in its extreme left hand position, the latch arm 96 holds the horn from turning movement, and after the first few stitches are inserted in the moccasin, the operator actuates a downwardly extending arm |00 rearwardly, which arm is secured to the shaft 98, and causes the latch arm 86 to be moved into the dot-dash position in Figure 4 out of engagement with the latch pin 94.` To maintain the latch arm 96 in latching position, a rearwardly extending lug on the latch arm has connected to it one end of a coil spring |02, the other end of which is connected to the bracket 5|, and the spring holds the lug on the latch arm in fixed position against a stop pin |04.

Referring to Figure 11, the temporarily fastened moccasin parts 22 and 24 are shown in the positions assumed just at the beginning of the first stitch in a seam. 'I'he shape of the moccasin tongue part 24 is such that with the parts in sewing positions, there is an open space |03 between the tongue and vamp parts, at both ends of the registering bevel surfaces thereof. Due to the fact that the awl of the present machine is actuated first to penetrate the work and then to feed a stitch length, it is difficult to apply the moccasin parts to the machine in suchpositions that the first stitch will be inserted close to one end of the registering bevel surfaces on the moccasin parts. If the temporarily attached moccasin parts are applied to the machine, a stitch length away from one end of the registering bevel edges, the presser-foot will not clamp the tongue part of the moccasin properly, and will displace it as soon as `the feeding movement of the awl commences. To permit the first stitch of a seam to be inserted close to one end of the registering bevel'surfaces of the moccasin parts of the present machine, the mechanism for imparting a feeding movement to the awl including the levers I4, |6 is adjusted before the machine is started to move the awl into line with the needle and to prevent a feeding movement of the awl-during the formation of the first stitch. As .described more fully in applicants prior Patent No. 1,169,909 dated February 1, 1916, the mechanism for actuating the feed levers I4, I6

comprises a toggle having pivotally connected4 members |06, |08 (see Fig. 9), the middle joint of which is connected by a link ||0 to one arm of a bell crank lever ||2, the other arm of which provided with a roll ||4 actuated by a cam on the main sewing shaft |0. To enable the feed mechanism to be adjusted, the member |08 of the toggle is pivotally connected to a yoke ||6 which, in turn, is pivotally mounted to turn about an `axis ||8. By swinging the yoke about its pivot, the, position of the toggle is changed so that more or less feeding movement is imparted to the awl. The pivot axis vof the yoke |I6 is arranged to be inline with the pivotal connection between the members |06, |08 when themembers are in their extreme rearward position and when the awl is at the limit of its feeding movement. When the yoke is rotated on its pivot axis, the extent of feeding movement impartedv to the awl is changed, but the extreme feedingposition of the awl remains the same as that in which the 4awl is in line with the needle so that when the yoke is moved to one extreme position, no feeding movement is imparted to the awl and the awl remains in line with the needle.

, To change the position of the yoke on its axis, the yoke has an arm connected by a link |20 to a bell crank lever |22 which, in turn, is connected by means cf a link |24 with a feed adjusting hand lever |26. 'I'lie hand lever |26 extends over a. perforated gage plate |28 in which pins may be inserted to limit the movement of the lever in either direction. When the moccasin is applied t0 thegmachine, the hand lever |26 is moved to an extreme position in which n o feeding movement is imparted to the awl. As the machine is started with the lever in this position the awl pierces the moccasin parts. as shown in Figure 11, and withdraws without feeding the parts so that the needle follows the awl, there being no movement ef the parts on the machine. Therefore, the temporarily attached parts may be applied to the work support and presserefoot in the exact positions at which it is desired to insert the first stitch, and relative movement of the tongue and vamp parts of the moccasin-are thus prevented. 'I'he hand lever |26 thereafter remains in the non-feeding position into which it is moved by the operator until the first stitch has been completed, when it is automatically moved forward to its normal feeding position before the awl again penetrates the work.

To automatically restore the hand lever to its normal feeding position, the link |24 is formed with a slot |30 (see Figs. 1 and 10) in which is clamped a bolt |32. Secured on the bolt |32 is a sleeve |34 having a convex surface which enters a slot between the forked lower ends of a cam lever |36. The upper end of the cam lever has a face arranged to be engaged by a cam |38 Vmounted on the shaft 8 of the machine, and the lever and cam are so constructed and arranged that when the hand lever |26 is in normal feeding position the upper end of the lever |36 lies just beyond the path of the cam 38. When the hand lever |26 is in non-feeding position, the cam lever |36 through its connection with the link |24 moves into the path of the cam |38, which then lies out of position to engage the lever. During the first revolution of the shaft 8 after the machine is started, the cam |38 engages the lever |36 and actuates the same, throwing the hand lever |26 into normal feeding position.

To assist the operator in applying the unstitched moccasin parts to the machine, the presser-foot and the presser may be moved away from the work support by treadle actuated connections separate from the driving and stopping mechanism of the machine, which driving and stopping mechanism is similar to that described in Patent No. 1,169,909. 'I'he presser and presserfoot connections are best shown in Figure 1, and

comprise an upstanding slotted arm of the lever v 68, a rearwardly extending rod |40 passing through the slotted arm and having a nut |42 arranged to engage the arm when the rod is moved rearwardly, and a lever I fglcrumed on a shaft |46 at the rear of the machine, one arm of which lever isY connected with the rod |40. Another arm of the lever |44 is provided with a cam face |48 cooperating with a roll |50 on a pivoted arm |5| which, in turn, carries a set screw |52 arranged to engage a presser-foot unlocking lever |54. Loosely mounted on the shaft |46 is an arm |56 pivotally connected to a treadle actuated rod |58. When the treadle rod |58 is pulled downwardly, a set screw |60 threaded in the arm |56 engages the lever I and causes the cam face on the lever to engage the roll |50 and, upon further movement of the lever l, the--presser foot and presser actuating mechanism is unlocked. Thereafter upon continued downward movement of the treadle rod |58, the lever 68 is rocked to raise the presser-foot and separate the presser from the work support.

'Ihe nature and scope of the. invention having been indicated, what is claimed is:

1. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, a work support and a cooperating presser-foot having work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other extending in the direction of feed to support the bevel surfaces of the top and vamp parts in registration, a back gage for guiding the extreme edges of the parts, stitchforming devices comprising a kneedle movable across and inside the apex ofthe angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of the work support and presser-foot, a presser arranged to act on the inner surfaces of the parts to hold the edges of the parts against the back gage, and mechanism for actuating the presser-foot and presser to clamp and release the work including yielding means for actuating the presser-foot against the parts, connections between the presser-foot and presser and additional yielding means for pressing the presser against 'the parts.

2. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, a presser provided with ywork engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other to act on the inner surfaces of the top and vamp parts, stitch-forming devices comprising a needle arranged to pierce the work close to the presser, a work support having a work engaging surface cooperating with one of the -'surfaces ofv the presser, a back'gage on the work support, and a presser-foot cooperating with the work support and having a work engaging surface disposed at an angle with relation to the work supporting surface of the work support to clamp the tongue and vamp parts with the extreme edges of the parts along thebevels in engagement with the back gage, said presser-foot being provided with a cut-away portion to' receive the back gage when in clamping engagement with the work.

3. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin.

tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, awork support and a cooperating presser-foot having work engaging surfaces `angularly disposedl with relation to each other, extending in the direction of feed to support the'bevel surfaces of the top and vamp parts in registration, a back gage for guidingthe extreme edges of the parts, stitchforming devices. comprising a needle movable across and inside the apex of the angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of the work. support and presser-foot, a presserarranged to act on the inner surfaces of the partsto holdthe edges of the parts against the back gage, mechanism for actuating the presser-foot and presserv to clamp and release the work during each sewing 5 cycle, and manually actuated means for disengaging sixmiltaneously the presser-foot and presser from the work to release the work from the machine.

4. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, a work support and a cooperating presser-foot having Work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other to support the bevel surfaces of the tongue and vamp parts in registration, a back gage for guiding the extreme edges of the parts, stitch-forming devices comprising a needle movable across and inside the apex of the angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of the work support fand presser foot, a horn pivotally mountedsto turn about a fixed axis, a presser having work engaging surfaces rotatably mounted to turn on the -horn about an axis inv alignment with tle horn axis and shaped to co- 2,5 operate with the surfaces of the work support and presser-foot to hold the tongue and vamp parts in position for passage of the needle, yielding means for rotating the horn about its pivotal axis, and a quickly releasable device for holding the yielding means inactive.

5. A sewing machine for u'niting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an' acute angle having, in combination, a work support and a cooperating presser-foot having Work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other 'to support the bevel surfaces of the tongue and vamp parts in registration, a back gage for guiding the exy treme edges of the parts, stitch-forming devices 407 comprising a needle movable across and inside vthe apex of the angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of the work support and presserfoot, a horn pivotally mounted to turn about a fixed axis, a presser having work engaging surfaces rotatably mounted to turn on the horn about an axis in alignment with the horn axis and shaped to cooperate with the surfaces of the work support and presser-foot to hold the tongue and vamp parts in position for passage of the needle, yielding means for rotating the horn about its pivotal axis, and a manually releasable latch for holding the horn in'an extreme position against rotation by the yielding means.

6. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, Y

a Work support and a vcooperating presser-foot having Work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other to support the bevel surfaces of thetongue and vamp parts in registration, a horn pivotally mounted to turn about a fixed axis, and a disk-shaped'presser having work engaging surfaces rotatably mounted to turn on the horn about an axis in alignment with the horn axis and being formed in part by compressible material to cause the presser to conform with irregularities in eective thick# ness ofthe moccasin parts.

7. A sewing machine for uniting' moccasin 70 tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute anglev having, in combination, a Workv support and a cooperating presser-foot having Work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other to support the '75 registration, a horn pivotally mounted to turn about a fixed axis, and a presser having angularly disposed work engaging surfaces formed with metallic backing plates and a compressible member inserted between said plates to permit the presser to\ conform with irregularities in effective thickness of the moccasin parts. y

8. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges bev- -eled at an acute angle having, in combination,

means for supporting the tongue and vamp parts in angular relation to each other and with the bevel surfaces in registration extending in the` direction of feed, stitch-forming and work-feeding devices comprising a needle and an awl movable across and inside the apex of the angle formed by the parts arranged to imparta feedring movement the length of one stitch to the work when the machine is started, means for adjusting the Work feeding devices to' prevent feeding movement of the work until the i'lrst stitch is inserted and to cause normal feeding movement of the work feeding devices to be restored after the first stitch in a seam.

9. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, means for supporting the tongue and vamp parts in angular relation to each other and with the bevel surfaces in registration extending in rthe direction of feed, stitch-forming and work feeding devices comprising a needle and an awl movable across and inside the apex of the angle formed by the parts arranged to impart a feeding movement the length of one stitch to the work when the mack-ine is started, means including a slotted link for adjusting the work feeding devices to prevent feeding movement of the work, a clamping bolt having a convex bushing adjustably 'secured in the slotted link, and a cam lever having a slot for receiving the convex bushing to cause normal feeding movements of the work feeding devices to be restored after the first stitch in a seam.

10. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, a Work support and a cooperating presser-foot having work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other -to support the bevel surfaces of the tongue and vamp parts in registration, and a back gage in the form of a lever fulcrumed on the work support with a curved work engaging surface at one side of the fulcrum and a set screw threaded into the work support` at the other side of the fulcrum engaging the plate to secure the work engaging surface thereof in xed position`on the work support.

11. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, means for supporting .the tongue and vamp parts in angular relation to each other and with the bevel surfaces in registration extending in the direction of feed, stitch-forming and work-feedlng devices comprising a needle and an awl movbevel surfaces of the tongue and vamp Aparts in tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a needle, a back gage arranged to guide the seam inserted by the needle along a line intersecting the surfaces of the able surfaces for supporting the beveled marginal portions of the parts with 4the surfaces of the -bevels in registration with each other and for clamping the parts with the extreme edges of the bevel surfaces uniformly in engagement with the back gage.

13. A sewing machine for uni-ting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, stitch-forming devices including a needle, a back gage arranged to guide the seam inserted by the needle uniformly along a line intersecting the surfaces of the bevels on the moccasin parts at a xed distance from the extreme edges of the bevel surfaces, andymeans comprising a presser, a work support and a presser-foot for clamping the parts with the extreme edges of the bevels uniformly in engagement with the back gage, said work support and presser-foot having angularly disposed work engaging surfaces to support between them the beveled marginal portions of the parts with the surfaces of the bevels in registration.

14. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, stitch-forming devices including a needle, a back gage arranged to guide the seam inserted by the needle uniformly along a line intersecting the surfaces of the bevels Yat a fixed distance from the extreme edges of lthe bevel sur-,- faces, means having angularly disposed relatively movable surfaces to support the beveled marginal portions of the parts with the surfaces of the bevels in registration with each other, and mechanism for actuating said means to cause the angularly disposed surfaces to clamp the parts uniformly in engagement with the back gage and release the parts during each winding cycle.

15. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, stitch-forming devices including a needle, a back gage arranged to guide the seam inserted by the needle uniformly along a line intersecting the surfaces of the bevels on the moccasin parts at a fixed distance from the extreme edges of the bevel surfaces, means for holding the moccasin parts in operative position in the machine with the surfaces of their bevels in registration comprising a presser, a work support and a, presser-foot having angularly disposed work engaging surfaces, and mechanism for actuating the presser-foot relatively to the work support during each sewing cycle to clamp the moccasin parts with the extreme edges of the bevels uniformly in engagement with the back gage. r

16. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, stitch-forming devices including a needle, a back gage arranged to guide the seam inserted by the needle uniformly alongva line intersecting the surfaces of the bevels on the moccasin parts at a fixed distance from the extreme-edges of the bevel surfaces, means for holding the mocextreme edges of the bevels uniformly in casin parts in operative position in the machine with the surfaces of their bevels in registration comprising a presser, a work support and a presser-foot having angularly disposed work engaging surfaces, and mechanism for actuating the presser and presser-foot relatively to the work support and to each other during each sewing cycle to clamp the moccasin parts with the engagement with the back gage.

17. A sewing machine 'for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, stitch-forming devices including a needle,

a back gage arranged to guide the seam inserted' by the needle uniformly along a line intersecting the surfaces ofthe bevels on the moccasin parts at a xed distance from the extreme edges of the bevel surfaces, means for holding the moccasin parts in operative position in the'machine with the surfaces of their bevels in registration comprising a presser, a work support and a presser-foot having angularly disposed work ensupport and presser foot towards the back gage to hold the moccasin parts securely in proper positions during passage of the needle,

FRED ASHWORTH.

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