US2213669A - Adjustable garment - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 3, l940- M. GOODMAN ET AL ADJUSTABLE GARMENT Filed April ll, 1939 5 Sheets-Sheet l New ATTO R N EY Sept 3, 1940 M. GOODMAN E-r AL ADJUSTABLE GARMENT iled April 1l, 1959 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORNEY Sept. 3, 1940. M, GOODMAN ET AL 2,213,669

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT Filed April ll, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet. 3

ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 3, 194:0

paisa essie ADJUSTABLE GARR/[ENT Applieation April 11, i939, Serial N'o. 267,234

Claims.

This invention relates to adjustable garments, particularly for supporting or molding a part of the body.

Adjustable garments having relatively mov- 5 able portions with lacing for adjustment of the spacing between the ends of the portions, are already known. Such garments are used as health belts to relieve backache and fatigue, or to improve posture. They` are also used in connection with many infirmities or ills. Ad-

justable garments are also employed to mold or control the figure, particularly at the abdomen. They are used by men to support the abdominal muscles, as well as by women inthe form of girdles or corsets to mold the figure. Such garments have a space or gap between the ends with only lacingk thereacross. This gap may show through the clothing, and is uncomfortable to the wearer. Moreover, when used for obesity,

a part of the body at the lacing is not well controlled.

The primary object of the present invention is to generally improve adjustable garments of the foregoing character. A more particular object is to overcome the difficulties attendant upon the use of lacing. For this purpose We provide two relatively movable portions which overlap one another, one of said portions being transversely slit from a. point near the top edge to a point near the bottom edge, in order to slidably receive the other portion. The ends are provided with adjusting straps which may be drawn tightly as desired. Such an arrangement eliminates the usual open gap or space between the ends of the movable garment portions, and it also eliminates lacing, but it is not altogether satisfactory because the long transverse slit tends to be drawn open at the middle by the pull of the adjusting straps. Accordingly, a further and more specic object of our invention is to overcome this latter difficulty, and this We do by connecting together the edges of the vertical slit by means of a series of spaced connections or links which prevent the slit from gaping open. Moreover, that part of the other garment portion which slidably passes through the transverse or vertical slit is itself longitudinally or horizontally slotted in order to receive the aforesaid links or connections,

Still another object of our inventon is to provide a preferred method for making and assembling the parts of the adjustable garment, with a view to minimizing labor, and at the same time providing a garment of attractive appearance and finish. More specifically, both of the' relatively movable portions of the garments may be nished throughout their length along their upper and lower edges by smooth, continuous binding tapes, as will later appear. 5

In connection with a corset of relatively great vertical dimension, in contradistinctionto a belt, it is desirable to be able to adjust the dimension of the upper part of the corset independently of the adjustment of the lower part of the corset, and a further object of our invention is to devise a corset which will provide independent adjustments of this character whileI at the same time retaining all of the advantages and features pointed out above. 15

To the accomplishment of the foregoing and such other objects as will hereinafter appear, our invention consists in the adjustable garment elements and their relation one to the other, as hereinafter are more particularly described in 0 the specication and sought to be defined in the claims. The specification is accompanied by drawings, in which:

Fig. l shows an adjustable belt or girdle opened out to iiat condition;

Fig. 2 is a horizontal section taken in the plane of the line 2--2 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a horizontal section taken in the plane of the line 3-3 of Fig. l;

Fig. i is a horizontal section taken in the plane of the line il-ll of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a vertical section take in the plane of the line 5 5 of Fig. l;

Figs. 6, '7, 8 and 9 show successive stages in` the manufacture of the garment of Fig. l; and

Fig. 10 shows a corset embodying features of the present invention.

Referring to the drawings, and more particularly to Fig. l, the garment comprises relatively movable or adjustable portions generally designated i2 and it. These portions overlap, and the amount of overlap may be controlled by means of adjusting straps it and i8. The garu ment here shown is of the front hooking type, and is provided with appropriate clasps such as the hooks Z and eyes 22 for connecting the ends of the garment together at the front. The ends of the adjusting straps l5 and i8 are brought around toward the front of the garment and are readily accessible for adjustment by the wearer while wearing the garment.

The portion iii is vertically slit at 2i. This slit extends from a point very near the top of the garment to a point very near the bottom.

In fact, it extends for the full height of the garment eXcept for the binding tapes 26 and 28. The end of garment portion l2 passes through the vertical slit 24. This end then converges or tapers, as is indicated at 3G, for connection to the adjusting strap IS. Similarly, the end of portion lfl converges or tapers, as is indicatedv at 32, for connection to the adjusting strap i6. With the arrangement as so far described,

the slit 24 would be drawn open at the middle upon the application of tension to the adjusting straps I@ and I8. To prevent this, we provide cross-connections or links at the points 3 and 35, these connections extending from one side of slit 2li to the other, and functioning to prevent separation or gaping of the slit. At the same time, a part of portion l2 of the garment is horizontally slit or slotted, as is indicated at 38 and li, in order to receive the links 3A and .35 respectively. The length of the horizontal slots is made equal to the desired range of adjustment of the garment.

The garment is preferably stiifened by the use of a suitable number of bones or stays distributed thereabout. These are-most commonly disposed 1n vertical or generally upright position. In the case of the particular garment here illustrated, there are bones or stays at 42, 44, 56, 48, 5t, 52, 5 and 55. The end bones 42 and 56 are especially desirable in order to stiiien the garment at the front and also to reinforce the same at the hooks and eyes.

In addition to the foregoing, the garment is preferably provided with bones or stays immediately at each side of the vertical slit 24 and at each end of the horizontal slits 38 and 40. Specifically, there are bones 58 and 6i) on opposite sides of slit 213. The bone 50 is, in the present case, supplemented by an immediately adjacent bone 82. The bone 58 is supplemented by a bone Sli disposed a short distance to the left of bone 58. The portion i2 of the garment is provided with a bone 66 at the right-hand end of the horizontal slits,v and in the present case, a pair of bones 68 and it at the left-hand end of the horizontal slits. It will be understood that these bones localized at the slits function not only to stiften the garment and to support the body in desired fashion, but also to help maintain the slit parts of the garment in proper, flat condition.

As is usual in the case of garments of this character, the garment is made up of a number of pieces appropriately patterned so that the garment will be properly form-tting on the body. In the present case, the garment is made up of parts which are secured together by lines of stitching for seams shown at 72,. llt, 46, 18, and 82. Moreover, the vertical slit 24 constitutes a line of separation between two separately patterned parts of the garment.

The construction of the garment may be further explained with reference to the sections shown in Figs. 2, 3, 4 and 5 of the drawings. Referring first to Fig. 2, it will be seen that the portion ifi of the garment is slit at 24, the sides of the slit being reinforced by the bones 58, 60 and 62. The portion I2 of the garment, or rather the broad straps defined by the horizontal slits, pass through the vertical slit lZit. The ends of these broad straps are defined and reinforced by the bones S5, S8 and 1B. Itl will be evident that these limit the range of adjustment of the garment.

The construction at' the cross-connections or links will be seen on reference to Fig. 43. In that figure it will be seen that slit 24 is crossed by a preferably narrow tape or link 3d, the endsof this link being sewed into the garment on opposite sides of the slit 2d. It may, for example, bc sewed by the same stitching that is used at the sides of the bones 58,' S6 and t2. These lines of stitching hold the tapes which enclose or bind the stays in position.

The adjusting straps it and i8 are, of course, received in appropriate buckles. Referring to Fig. 4, it will be seen how buckle is held by means of a reversely bent tape or broad strip of fabric 85, the ends of which are sewed into the garment by means of the regular lines of stitching used at the seam t2. A similar construction is used for the other buckle at seam i2.

Referring now to Fig. 5, it will be seen how the adjustable part of portion l2 of the garment is sub-divided into comparatively broad straps or webs material, :'38, 95 and 92 with slits 38 and 49 therebetween. This need not be done by slitting a single piece of fabric. Instead, three separate pieces of fabric are used, which pieces are bound at their edges, as is indicated at Sii, 96, 98 and it. Moreover, the top edge of piece S8 and the bottom edge of piece 92 are bound by tapes M2 and IM, respectively, which tapes are preferably long, continuous tapes extending throughout the length of the garment portion i2, as will later appear.

The method of constructing and assembling the portions i2 and if?, of the garment may be explained with reference to Figs. 6 through 9 of the drawings. The portion l2 is first formed without its convergent or triangular end and without its top and bottom binding tapes. The straps 36, 95 and 92 are secured in place at one end, but are: left open at the opposite end. The portion lli of the garment is completed except .for its ytop and bottom binding tapes. The convergent or generally triangular end part 32 is secured to the remainder of the portion lli solely by means of the spaced links or connections (Si and 35 in Fig. l)

The two garment portions are prelirninarily assembled by passing the parts S8, 9@ and 92 through the slit 2t of portion it, as is indicated in Fig. 6. The convergent or generally triangular end piece 3i? of garment portion i2 is then stitched to the broad straps or slidable sections 83, 9) and 52 of the garment, thereby interlocking Ithe two garment portions i2 and 201 against separation, as is clearly shown in Fig. 7. Top and bottom binding tapes ft2 and l @Il of garment portion i2 are then sewed along the entire length of portion l2, as is shown in Fig. 8. The ends of the vertical slit 2511 are still open, and this sewing operation is therefore readily performed by ap propriately turning away `the corners of garment portion it, somewhat as is schematicaliy vindicated at H35 and M18 in Fig. 8.

As a final step, the top and bottom binding tapes 26 and 28 are sewed along the entire length of garment portion ill. These tapes come outside the tapes 62 and EN, and operate to close the heretofore open ends of main vertical slit 24.

The adjusting straps i6 and i8 may be added at any convenient time. If the ends of the adjusting strap are to be confined within the ends of the binding tapes, then the strapv I8 is preferably added between the steps shown in Figs. 7 and 8 of the drawings, and similarly, the strap i@ is preferably added between the steps shown in Figs. 8 and 9 of the drawings. If, however, the

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ends ci straps lo and i8 are to be sewed outside the binding tapes, then the straps may be added after the binding tapes have been sewed in place.

A modified form of the invention is shown in Fig. lil oi the drawings. The most important diiierence illustrated in Fig. l is the provision of independent adjustment for the upper and lower parts of a comparatively wide garment. Specifically, Fig. 1G illustrates a ladys corset which is substantial in height. The dimension of the upper part of the corset, or in other Words, at the waist of the wearer, is controlled by adjusting straps HS and illi. The dimension at the lower part of the corset, or in other words, about the hips and buttocks, is controlled by the adjusting straps lli;- and lili. These adjustments are subM stantially independentof one another, and afford flexibility in figure control.

The essential change in the construction of the garment for this purpose will be self-evident from inspection of the drawings, it being merely necessary to pattern the end of garment portion l i8 to form two convergent or generally triangular end pieces lZll and l22, Similarly, the end of the other garment portion i215, is so contoured as to form two convergent or generally triangular portions 26 and E25. Each of these convergent portions leads to one of the adjusting straps.

Another diilerence illustrated by the garment of Fig. 1G, is the provision oi side opening rather than front opening. Specifically, the row of eyes i3!) and the mating row of hooks 32 are so located as to come at the side of the wearer. The boned portion generally designated i3d then comes at the front or abdomen of the wearer, and the overlapping or adjustable portion generally designated i3d comes at the back of the wearer.

It will be understood that the desired adjustment provided, as before, by means of a main vertical slit 38 extending all the way from the top to the bottom of the portion E24 of the garment, and by a series of spaced horizontal slits lflll, lll, iM and lllii, which receive links or conne-ctions extending across the vertical slit 938. In the present case, however, because of the greatly increased vertical dimension of the garment, four such cross-links are employed, instead of only two as in Fig. l. The portions of the garment may be assembled as heretofore described., the slit parts oi portion l i8 being passed through the vertical slit 38 and then being connected by the end pieces and 22. The portion llt is then provided with its top and bottom binding tapes and E55, following which the portion lfl is provided with its top and bottom binding tapes l52 and 56. The auxiliary pieces of binding tape l and E58 may be added at any convenient time, either beiore or after assembling together the `twc-y main portions l lll and i251 of the garment.

It is believed that the construction as well as the method of fabrication and use ci our improved adjustable garment, will be apparent from the foregoing detailed description thereof.

With reference to both forms of the invention, it should be understood that while we have shown the connecting links exceedingly narrow, they may, if desired, be widened somewhat. It is for this reason that the longitudinal or horizontal cuts may preferably be considered to be slots rather than slits, and of course, ii the links and slots are widened, then the straps between the slots are correspondingly narrowed. We prefer the present arrangement with narrow links because then the wide straps form a substantially continuous surface bearing against the body, and this leads to maximum comfort.

It will be understood that while we have shown the main transverse slit to be a vertical slit, this slit may, if desired, be disposed at an angle, in which case, o1" course, the ends of the horizontal straps or slits should also be stepped or disposed at a similar angle. We prefer to make the transverse slit vertical because the resulting construe-- tion is simpler than when using a sloping slit, and further, because we prefer to stiilen the edges of the slit with bones, and ordinarily, it is desired to dispose these bones in upright position. li, however, in any particular case it is desired to dispose the bones in a biased or sloping position, the slit may be similarly sloped.

It will also be understood that while we have shown. each of the adjusting straps running to a buckle oi its own, it is also possible to extend the adjusting straps entirely around the body and to provide one buckle on one oi the straps for receiving the other strap. In the arrangement oi Fig. l. there would then be a single buckle instead of two, and in the arrangement of Fig, l0 there would be two buckles instead of four.

It will therefore be apparent that while we have shown and described our invention in several preferred forms, many changes and modications may be made in the structures disclosed, without departing from the spirit of the invention dened in the following claims.

We claim:

l. An adjustable body supporting garment comprising two overlapping relatively movable portions, one of said overlapping portions being transversely slit, except for one or more spaced links extending across said slit to prevent the same from opening, the other of said overlapping portions being horizontally slotted for a distance equal to the desired range of adjustment, said transverse slit in the nrst garment portion receiving the second garment portion, and said horizontal slots in the second portion receiving the connecting links of the i-lrst portion, the ends oi said overlapping portions terminating in adjusting straps.

2. An adjustable body supporting garment comprising two overlapping relatively movable portions, one of said overlapping portions being slit from near its top edge to near its bottom edge, except for one or more thin spaced links eX- tending across said slit to prevent the same from opening, the other of said overlapping portions being horizontally slit for a distance equal to the desired range of adjustment, said vertical slit in the rst garment portion receiving the second garment portion, and said horizontal slits in the second portion receiving the connecting links of the rst portion, said overlapping portions beyond said slits converging in width and terminating in adjusting straps.

3. An adjustable body supporting garment comprising two overlapping relatively movable portions, one of said overlapping portions being transversely slit from near its top edge to near its bottom edge, except for one or more spaced links extending across said slit to prevent the same from opening, the other of said overlapping portions being horizontally slotted for a distance equal to the desired range of adjustment, said transverse slit in the first portion receiving the second garment portion, and said horizontal slots in the second portion receiving the connecting links of the first portion, the ends of said overlapping portions terminating in adjusting straps, said garment being provided With a number of generally upright bones or stiifening stays Aat each end of the horizontal slots.

4. An adjustable body supporting garment comprising two overlapping relatively movable portions, one of said overlapping portions being vertically slit, except for one or more spaced links extending across said slit to prevent the same from opening, the other of said overlapping portions being horizontally slotted for a 4distance equal to the desired range of adjustment, said Vertical slit in the first garment portion receiving the second garment portion, and said horizontal slots in the second portion receiving the connecting links of the iirst portion, the ends of said overlapping portions terminating in adjusting straps, said garment being provided with a number of generally upright bones or stiiening 4stays including one or more bones at each side of the Vertical slit and at each end of the hori- Zontal slots.

5. An adjustable body supporting garment comprising two overlapping relatively movable portions, one of said overlapping portions being transversely slit except for spaced links extending across said slit to prevent the same from opening, the other of said overlapping portions being horizontally slotted for a distance equal to the desired range of adjustment, said vertical slit in the i'lrst garment portion receiving the second garment portion, and said horizontal slots in the second portion receiving the connecting links of the rst portion, each end of said overlapping portions being shaped to form a plurality of convergences or generally triangular extensions each terminating in an adjusting strap for independent adjustment of the upper and lower portions of the garment.

MARTIN GOODMAN. DAVID LANCE.

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