US2211054A - Method of and apparatus for treating shoe uppers - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 13, 1940. M. L. DODGE 2,211,054

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed May 6, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet l a I i Aug. 13, 1940. M, DODGE 2,211,054

MLifiOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREA'I'JNU SHOE UPPERS Filed May 6, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 M. L. DODGE Aug. 13, 1940.

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed May 6, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 Aug. 13, 1940- -M. L. DODGE 2,211,054

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed May 6, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 $740721)? fill/M l/l flf Maw- Kuum Patented Aug. 13, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS 39 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of and ap paratus for treating shoe uppers to improve the appearance and fit of the shoes, the apparatus being of the general type illustrated in my application for Letters Patent Serial No. 690,853, filed September 25, 1933, for Apparatus for treating shoe uppers. Such apparatus is intended to smooth out the upper between inner and outer former members, to so treat the top portion of the upper as to render inconspicuous, or entirely conceal, the top edge of the lining, and to so turn in and straighten and smooth the edge of the upper as to improve the appearance of the shoe, and to cause the top rim of the shoe to more closely engage the wearers foot.

The present invention is concerned particularly with the forms by which the shoe is treated, so as to improve the action of the machine on both mens and womens shoes of the oxford, tie or strap type, and more particularly on mens shoes. To this end the form over which the shoe is placed is provided with in-turned portions along the upper portion of its sides for a substantial portion of its length substantially conforming to the curve of the upper edge line of the shoe from the heel end to the highest part at the back of the instep portion, forwardly of which the side walls are curved inwardly in a gradual curve outwardly convex to their upper edges, preferably meeting in substantially an edge which curves forwardly and downwardly toward and in close proximity to the forward end of the shoe opening or throat portion. The highest part contains the top eyelets at opposite sides of the lacing slit opening in. shoes of the Oxford type, and in the case of the strap shoe the strap, or in case more than one strap is used, the top strap starts at this point. Side pressure forms having, preferably, somewhat yieldable facings and having pressing surfaces generally complemental in contour along the top margin of the shoe upper to the inner form are provided, and the shoe upper is engaged between them and the inner form, and preferably subjected to an upward wiping motion of the engaging outer presser members as well as pressure of these members toward the inner form during the treating operation. It will be understood that directional terms such as upward, forward, downward etc., as applied to the form, refer to the form when so positioned that a shoe properly in place thereon is substantially in its normal upright position with the tread surfaces of its sole and heel substantially horizontal.

If desired the inner form may be extended substantially to the shoe sole, as, particularly when heated, this is effective in removing lining wrinkles which may be well below the top rim of the shoe.

The method of treating shoes of the type for which this apparatus is designed is covered broadly in my application Serial No. 299,822, filed October 17, 1939, for Method of treating shoe uppers, which is a division of my application Serial No. 690,853 to which reference has been made herein.

For a more complete understanding of this invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawings in which Figures 1 and 2 are side and front elevations,

respectively, of a shoetreating machine illustrating the invention.

Figure 3 is a side elevation to a larger scale of the inner form showing in dotted lines the position of a shoe to be treated thereon.

Figure 4 is a top plan of the same.

Figures 5, 6 and 7 are detail sections on the correspondingly numbered section lines of Figure 3, showing the manner in, which the shoe upper is pressed thereon by the action of the outer presser members which are shown in dotted lines as approaching pressing positions.

Figure 8 is a view somewhat similar to Figure 3, but showing a modification.

Figures 9 and 10 are top plans of a shoe before and after the treatment has been eifected, respectively.

Figures 11 and 12 are front elevations of the shoe shown in Figures 9 and 10, respectively.

Figures 13 and 14 are fragmentary detail sections showing inner and outer forms with a shoe upper therebetween at the start and at the completion, respectively, of the pressing action, the section corresponding closely to that of Figure 6.

Figure 15 is an inside elevation of a side presser member with the cover omitted and relieved below the top of the eyelet stay, and showing in dotted lines the lines of eyelets of an oxford shoe in position to be acted upon by this presser member.

Figure 16 is a transverse section through the form and presser of the type shown in Figure 15, along the line lG-IG of Figure 15, showing a shoe upper in position ready to be pressed against the form.

Figure 1'7 is a view somewhat similar to a portion of Figure 16, but showing a modification.

Figures 18 and 19 are front elevations of a blucher oxford before and after treatment, respectively, in accordance with this invention.

Figures 20 and 21 are fragmentary sections through the top portion of a pressed edge upper before and after treatment in accordance with this invention.

Figure 22 is a transverse section to a larger scale on line 2222 of Figure 8.

Figures 23 and 24 are fragmentary views partly in section showing modified constructions of inner form member.

Figure 25 is a View similar to Figure 1, but showing in dotted lines the position of a tie shoe upper thereon.

Referring to Figures 1 and 2, at l is shown a table top or other suitable means for supporting the treating mechanism. As shown this table top has a marginal downwardly extending flange 2 against which is secured a vertical flange portion 3 of a bracket 4. This bracket 4 is shown as provided with a central rearwardly extending web 5 which engages within a suitable slot in the table I. The bracket extends upward above the top face of the table I and has a forwardly turned portion 6 of a somewhat goose-neck shape, to the forward end of which may be secured an inner form member 1, over which the shoe to be treated may be placed. The bracket 4 also extends below the table top, and at its lower end it may have pivoted thereto, as at 8, the forked extremity 9 of an actuating handle lever [0. This handle lever is pivotally connected through a pair of links H with the lower end of a rod l2 which is guided for vertical sliding movement within a guiding portion l3, shown as an integral forward extension from the bracket 4. To the upper end of the rod I2 is pivotally connected oppositely extending links M and I5, there being two links M which extend on either side of the single link IS. The link I5 is bifurcated at its outer end, and between the forks is pivoted the lower end of a lever It. A similar lever I1 is pivoted between the outer ends of the links M. The levers l6 and I! are fulcrumed as at l8 and 19, respectively, on bracket ears extending from the bracket 4, and carry at their upper ends outer presser members which may be moved toward and from the form member 'I by manipulation of the hand member 10, the links M and I 5 acting as a toggle.

This mechanism per se is substantially the same as that shown in my application Serial No. 690,853. the present invention relating more specifically to the form members I and 25 and to the method in connection with which these forms are employed. It should be pointed out, however, that when a shoe is placed on the inner form I, and the handle H) is depressed, the side presser members 25 are moved inwardly, and press the upper of the shoe against the inner form I, the configuration of the forms being such that this pressure pulls downwardly on the outer end of the portion 6, which yields under this pressure so that the pressure members 25 have a component of motion upwardly relative to the inner form I, and produce a wiping action of the outer of the shoe heightwise toward the top margin of the upper while the lining is held back by its frictional engagement with the form I. This wiping action in addition to the pressure, together with a shrinking action on the lining produced by heating the inner form I, as by the electric heating unit 26, smooths out any lining wrinkles and produces a desirable effect on the shoe outer as well as on the lining.

This general method of treating shoes forms the subject matter of my application for Letters Patent Serial No. 604,455, filed April 11, 1932, for Method of shaping a shoe upper.

The forms comprising the inner member I and Dresser members 25, in accordance with this invention, are particularly intended for the treatment of shoes of the Oxford strap and tie types, and while not restricted thereto, are particularly intended for the treatment of mens shoes.

One embodiment of the inner form 1 is shown more particularly in Figures 3 to '7. Referring to these figures, it will be seen that this member comprises a block having a convex base portion from which arise side wall members 3|. These side wall members from the heel end 32 forwardly for a portion of the length of the form have in-turned upper portions 33. These in-turned portions, curving forwardly in a generally upward direction, are conformed generally to the curved edge line of the rim of types of shoe which are intended to be treated by this form. The top rim of a shoe of these types is indicated by dotted lines from the point a to the point b, rising upwardly bowed or arched from the forward end of the shoe opening at the point a to a high point e, from which the edge extends in a downwardly bowed contour to the heel end of the shoe at b. The portions 33 of the form substantially follow this configuration of the shoe upper rim between the points b and 0. Between the side walls of the form arises an extension or bracket 35 which is shown as provided at its upper end with a widened head portion 36 which furnishes means by which the form I may be secured to the forward end of the bracket portion 6. Forwardly of the point 0 on the form, its side walls are convexed outwardly and slope toward each other and may terminate in an apex line 40 which slopes downwardly and forwardly to approximately, or slightly rearwardly, of the shoe opening which, as shown, terminates substantially at the point a. This apex line 40 is arranged approximately in the central vertical plane of the shoe opening, longitudinally of the shoe.

The edge portions 33 are in-turned so that the sides of the upper, more especially toward the heel end, and which may comprise an outer 53 and a lining 5!, with or without a counter stifffener, no such stiffener being shown, when turned thereover, as illustrated in Figures 6 and 7, are turned toward each other, but the portions 33 are of such width that an approximate following of the curvature of the shoe rim is all that is necessary so that a single form may serve for a considerable range of sizes and styles of shoes satisfactorily. As it is usually more difficult to properly turn in the top margin of the shoe toward the heel end, it will usually be found desirable that the surfaces of the form against which the upper is pressed be more sharply turned in toward the back of the form than toward the highest points of the upward side wall extensions. The sharpness of the in-turn is therefore preferably decreased gradually from closely adjacent to the heel end forwardly toward that part with which the high points of the shoe side extensions are to be engaged.

In some cases it may be desired to extend the form substantially to the top face of the sole of the shoe placed thereon in order to prevent the formation and/or to remove lining wrinkles sub stantially below the top margin of the shoe, as for example is shown at 56, in dotted lines in Figure 8. When this is desired the form may be made as shown in Figure 8, the upper contours for receiving the upper edges of the shoe upper at the opening being substantially the same as shown in Figures 3 to 7, but the lower portion of the form being extended down substantially to the sole of the shoe indicated in dotted lines at 51 and substantially following the curvature of its arch. When this is done it will usually be found necessary to make the forms in rights and lefts, although where the form is made as in Figures 3 to '7 the same form will commonly be satisfactory for both rights and lefts. This extension of the inner form. member to substantially the sole of the shoe may, of course, be done with forms suitable for treating other types of shoes than oxfords, ties and straps, as for example, as shown in my application for Letters Patent Serial No. 690,853, which has been previously mentioned. When the forms are made rights and lefts, whether or not they are made to extend close to the sole, the top line between the heel and high point is commonly lower on the outside than on the inside and the form may be made to correspond as shown in Figure 22, the outside being shown at m and the inside at n, and if desired the inside of the form may be relieved as shown at 59 in Figure 8 to provide a space for the tongue which is secured on that side.

The outer form or presser members 25 may be shaped with contours substantially complemental to the side faces of the inner member 1, and may be provided with facings 60 of leather or other suitable material which will have the desired amount of gripping engagement on the outer faces of the shoe outer 50, and these facings may be backed up with resilient material such as rubber, as at 6|, so that these facings may automatically be conformed as the members 25 are pressed against the faces of the form 1. The facings 60 may be secured in any suitable manner, as by lacings 62, as more fully described in my application Serial No. 690,853. Little pressure of the shoe between the inner form and the presser members is necessary to remove wrinkles below the upper portions of the shoe side walls, and much pressure is usually undesirable where a counter stiffener is positioned, as it may tend to show a line where the pressure is suddenly relieved, as at the bottom of the form.

Referring to Figures 13 and 14, it will be noted that the outer 58 and the lining 5| which may be top-stitched together as at 65, extend somewhat above the in-turned edge portions 33 rearwardly of the highest point of the shoe upper side wall extensions, and as the outer presser members are brought toward the form 1 this upper portion of the upper is turned over and pressed firmly against the form 'I while the upward wiping motion of the presser member 25 tends to extend the outer 50 above the stitch line upwardly, and presses it against the form I while the upper edge of the lining 5| is attenuated and pressed into the adjacent face of the outer 5n, the stitch line 65 tending to be distorted from its substantially perpendicular relation to the side faces of the upper as shown in Figure 13 to the slantwise condition shown in Figure 14. This action takes place along the sides of the shoe opening from the heel end substantially to the highest points of the upper side extensions at c, smoothing the upper along its top edge, turning the top margins inwardly toward each other so that they more firmly grip the ankle of the wearer, and forming out the irregularities as shown in these side portions at 10 in Figure 9 to a smooth edge contour shown at H in Figure 10, the upper edge of the lining being more nearly concealed in the completely treated shoe. From the point e forwardly to the forward end of the shoe opening, as at a, the outer is similarly projected over the lining edge and the lining edge thinned and pressed into the outer. The upper is smoothed and rounded, the high points being brought toward each other as shown in Figure 12 from the relatively irregular condition shown in Figures 9 and 11. This action thus materially improves the appearance of the shoe and where it engages about the ankle and over the instep of the wearer produces a much closer engagement, thus substantially improving the fit as well as the appearance. While the wiping action is of great utility, it should be understood that pressure of itself is sufiicient to give an improved appearance to the shoe, though wiping makes the accomplishment of the desired result easier. This invention in its broadest aspect, therefore, is not limited to wiping in conjunction with such pressure. Bending of the portion 6 is also not essential to produce a wiping action, yielding of the cushioning portions 6| under the pressure acting to produce such wiping action. Besides this, any wrinkles in the lining, more particularly adjacent to the shoe opening, or in case of the form shown in Figure 8 being used, throughout the entire height of the lining, are shrunken and ironed out.

In Figure 15 is shown a construction of outer presser member particularly suitable for use in connection with shoes of the oxford or tie type provided with eyelet stays extending from the highest points of the shoe upper side extensions forwardly to or toward the throat. It is found undesirable to subject the eyelets to as severe a pressure as that desired to be exerted on the top margin of the eyelet stay, particularly where the eyelets are set blind, for the reason that this pressure causes the blind eyelets to show through the outer of the shoe, and it is also undesirable to subject the eyelets themselves to such pressure even when they are not set blind. For this reason the presser element 80 shown in Figure 15 is provided with a top margin 8| so formed that the heaviest pressure is exerted thereby along the top margin of the shoe upper, while below the portion 8| the inner face of the presser member is relieved, as at 82, or it may even there terminate so that below the portion 8| a less severe pressure is exerted. Rearwardly of the portion 8| the presser element is provided with the rib 83 shaped generally complemental to the in-turned portion 33 of the form (see Figure 3) with which it is designed to cooperate. The lower edge of the forward end of this presser element is shown as concaved, this avoiding pressure and the formation of wrinkles in the vamp during the pressing operation which is liable to occur when the pressing element may engage the vamp below the forward portion of the top opening, particularly where the shoe is somewhat wider than the form. By avoiding the application of pressure well down on the shoe below the throat portion, this wrinkling is avoided. As shown best in Figure 16 the outer presser members, such as 80, may be covered with a layer of rubber or other suitable cushioning material as at 85, and may further be provided with a facing of leather or the like as at 86 which directly contacts with the shoe upper. As shown in Figure 16 the outer 50 and the lining 5|, top-stitched together, are so engaged between the form 1 and the presser members that the upper edge portions of the shoe upper above the lines of the eyelets 81 are firmly engaged by the facing 86 of the presser elements 80, while where the eyelets are positioned, this pressure is much relieved.

In Figure 17 a slight modification is shown in which the relief for the eyelets is provided by recesses St on opposite sides of the form 1, these recesses being arranged opposite to the line of the eyelets.

In Figures 18 and 19 are illustrated oxford shoes of the blucher type before and after treatment in accordance with this invention. It will be noted in Figure 18 that the blucher wings I00, including the marginal eyelet stays IOI, are outwardly turned and are irregular in contour as they come from the ordinary finishing operations to which a shoe of this type is ordinarily subjected. After treatment in accordance with this invention, these wings I 00 are turned in toward each other, pressed down and straightened, to 20 give the general appearance shown in Figure 19. In Figures 20 and 21 are shown the effects of the pressure treatment on the top margin of a shoe having a pressed edge. In a shoe of the pressed edge type the outer N15 is skived off at 25' its upper edge, which is then folded over and cemented to itself substantially within the skived margin as shown at H". This treatment is done before the shoe is top stitched and the placing of the top stitching as at I08 tends to spread the top margin of the outer, the stitches pulling the material against the lining I09. The treatment in accordance with this invention thins this portion I01 and presses the lining H19 into the relationship shown in Figure 21, while the top margin is tapered and pressed into a compact form as shown at I I0.

Where the form is made to extend substantially to the sole of the shoe, as shown in Figure 8, in which case it will usually be found necessary to make the forms lefts and rights, advantage may also be taken of the fact that most oxford shoes are arranged with their sides lower about the outside of the ankle than on the inside. The downward sweep of the in-turned curvature 33 of the form may then be made lower on the outside of the form than on the inside as shown at m and n, respectively, in Figure 22. Where the same form is used for rights and lefts, it is, of course, not possible to do this, but there is 50.;sufl1cient width included in the in-turned portion so that the side walls of the shoe may be brought into desired in-turned positions with sufficient accuracy.

In some cases, particularly with shoes made of very light upper materials, there has been found a tendency for the side forming pressure to produce slight wrinkles across the vamp at the throat portion of the shoe. Where difficulty of this kind is experienced, it is possible to over- 5 -,come it entirely by supporting the shoe adjacent to the throat portion from the inside with a slight upward pressure during the side pressing operation. In Figure 23 this action is shown as produced by means of a threat block I23 which is 5,,supported for a slight universal tilting movement on the upper end of a coil spring I22, which is carried at the outer end of an extension I123 which may be secured to the lower face of the form I as by means of the screws I25. The {0 spring I22 also has the further function of producing a slight upward pressure against the inner face of the throat of the shoe.

In Figure 24 a modified construction is shown in which a throat block I35 is employed which 757 may be made of sponge rubber or the like and which may be secured to a leaf spring l3! which is secured as by screws I32 to the form 1. In order to avoid any deleterious effect on the spring by reason of the heat to which the form 1 is subjected, the leaf spring may be protected from this heat by means of a layer of heat insulating material such as asbestos or the like such as I35 interposed between the spring l3] and the form I.

It is also possible to prevent wrinkles of the throat portion by exerting a slight downward pressure on the forward portion of the shoe. This may be done as by means of a. spring M5, shown in Figure 25, which may be carried by the form 1 and may engage the top face of the sole near its forward end, or the pressure may be exerted on the outside of the shoe as by the spring arm M! which is carried by the portion 6 and engages on the top face of the box toe of the shoe, as shown in Figure 8.

Figure 25 shows in dotted outline a shoe of the tie type applied to a form such as 1 in Figure 3. A shoe of this type is provided with the upward extensions as I40 through which the tie elements are placed which secure the opposite sides of the shoe together, forwardly of which the shoe upper is cut away as at I4I. This upward extension I40 may be engaged with the side wall 3| of the form in a manner similar to that in which the eyelet stays of an oxford type of shoe may be engaged. Similarly a shoe of the strap type has upward extensions where one or more straps pass from one side of the shoe to the other, these upward extensions, including the root portions of the straps, being pressed against the side walls of the form during the operation of the apparatus thereon.

From the foregoing description of certain embodiments of this invention, it will be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of this invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A form for a shoe having a curved top edge, said form having a side face in-turned above its lower edge from the heel end forwardly and outwardly convex, said in-turned portion substantially following the top edge line of the shoe, and a. bracket portion on said form for securement to a support.

2. A form over which may be placed a shoe having a top edge line concaved along the side of the shoe for a portion of its length forwardly of the heel end of the shoe, said form having its side face in-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardly presented convex surface generally following said concaved top edge line along the side of said form.

3. A form over which may be placed a shoe having a top edge line concaved along the side of the shoe for a portion of its length forwardly of the heel end of the shoe, said form having its side face in-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardly presented convex surface generally following said concaved top edge line along the side of said form, and a bracket portion on said form for securement to a support.

4. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, said form having a side wall portion with which the shoe upper may be engaged from the highest portion of said extension forwardly toward the forward end of the shoe opening, said form side wall por- .tion being inwardly inclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateral center of the shoe opening, and a bracket portion on said form for securement to a support.

5. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, said form having a side wall portion with which the shoe upper may be engaged from the highest portion of said extension forwardly toward the forward end of the shoe opening, said form side wall portion being inwardly inclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateral center of the shoe opening and being outwardly convex.

6. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, the top edge line along the side of the shoe being concave between the heel end and the highest part of said extension, said form having its side face in-turned between its upper and lower edges to form a surface generally following said top edge line along the side of the form and having a side wall portion with which the shoe upper may be engaged from the highest part of said extension forwardly, toward the forward end of the shoe opening, said portion being inwardly inclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateral center of the shoe opening.

'7. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, the top edge line along the side of the shoe being concaved between the heel end and the highest part of said extension, said form having its side face in-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardly presented convex surface generally following said top edge line along the side of the form, and having a side wall portion with which the shoe upper may be engaged from the highest part of said extension forwardly toward the forward end of the shoe opening, said portion being inwardly inclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateral center of the shoe opening.

8. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, the top edge line along the side of the shoe being concaved between the heel end and the highest part of said extension, said form having its side face in-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardly presented convex surface generally following said top edge line along the side of the form, and having a side wall portion with which the shoe upper may be engaged from the highest part of said extension forwardly toward the forward end of the shoe opening, said portion being inwardly inclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateral center of the shoe opening and being outwardly convex.

9. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, the top edge line along the side of the shoe being concaved between the heel end and the highest part of said extension, said form having its side face in-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardly presented convex surface generally following said top edge line along the side of the form, and having a side wall portion with which the shoe upper may be engaged from the highest part of said extension forwardly toward the forward end of the shoe opening, said portion being inwardly inclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateral center of the shoe opening and being outwardly convex and of more gradual curvature than said outwardly presented convex surface.

10. A form over which a shoe having an upward extension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat may be placed, said form having opposite side faces in-turned from the heel end of said form forwardly to approximately the highest part of the extension of the corresponding shoe upper side and approximately following the contour of the top edge line of said shoe upper side lengthwise, said side walls forwardly of said highest part curving inwardly toward each other in an outwardly convex curve toward a forwardly and downwardly extending apex line arranged substantially in the central longitudinally vertical plane of the shoe opening to substantially the forward end of the shoe opening at the throat, said form having a bracket portion for securement to a support.

11. In combination, a form for a shoe having a curved top edge, said form having a side face in-turned above its lower edge from the heel end forwardly and outwardly convex, said in-turned portion substantially following the top edge line of the shoe, and an outer presser member having a pressing face substantially following the top edge line of the shoe for pressing the marginal portion of the shoe upper against said form.

12. In combination, a shoe upper treating apparatus comprising a form over which a shoe may be placed and having a side face terminating at its lower edge closely adjacent to the sole of a shoe placed thereon and substantially following the curve of the arch of said sole, and presenting a face portion against which the top margin of the shoe upper may be pressed, and an outer presser member for pressing the shoe side against said face portion.

13. In combination, a shoe upper treating apparatus comprising a form over which a shoe may be placed and having side faces terminating at their lower edges closely adjacent to the sole of a shoe placed thereon and substantially following the curve of the arch of said sole and presenting face portions against which the top margins of a shoe placed thereon may be pressed, said form being made to suit the shoe whether right or left, and side presser members for pressing the top marginal portions of the shoe upper against said face portions.

14. In combination, a form over which a shoe may be placed and having inwardly turned side face portions, the in-turned face portion on one side of said form being positioned lower than that on the other side, and presser members for pressing the sides of the shoe upper against said portions.

15. In combination, a form over which may be placed a shoe having concaved top edge lines, the concavity on one side of the shoe being greater than on the other, said form having in-turned side face portions following generally the corresponding top edge lines of the shoe lengthwise thereof, and presser members for pressing the sides of the shoe upper adjacent to their top edges against said portions.

16. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said form having a side face inturned above its lower edge from the heel end forwardly to approximately the highest point of said upward extension, said in-turned portion substantially following the edge contour of said shoe upper side wall lengthwise of the form, and a presser member having a portion substantially following the contour of said in-turned portion for pressing the edge portion of the shoe upper against said form.

17. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said form having a side wall portion with which a side wall of the shoe upper may be engaged from the highest point of said extension forwardly substantially to the forward end of the shoe opening, said side wall terminating in its upper and forward edge in a plane substantially in the lateral center of the shoe opening, and a presser member for pressing the shoe along the forward top edge of said extension against said form.

18. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said form having a side wall portion with which a side wall of the shoe upper may be engaged from its highest point forwardly substantially to the forward end of the shoe opening, said side wall being outwardly convex and terminating in its upper and forward edge in an upwardly bowed arch in a plane substantially in the lateral center of the shoe opening, and a presser member for pressing the shoe upper along the forward top edge of said extension against the shoe form.

19. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said form having a side face in-turned above its lower edge from the heel end forwardly to approximately the highest point of the shoe upper extension approximating the contour of the corresponding portion of the top rim of the shoe, and forwardly of said point in a more gradual inward and upward curve toward the plane of the central longitudinal axis of the shoe opening, and a presser member for pressing the top margin of the shoe upper substantially from the heel to the throat of the shoe against said form.

20. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said form having opposite side faces in-turned from the heel end of said form forwardly to approximately the highest point of the corresponding shoe upper side at said extension, and approximately following the contour of the top line of said shoe upper side lengthwise, said side walls forwardly of said highest point curving inwardly in an outwardly convex curve toward each other more gradually than said in-turned portions and approaching a forwardly and downwardly curved apex line arranged substantially in the central longitudinal vertical plane of the shoe opening to substantially the forward end of the shoe opening, and a presser member for pressing the top margin of the shoe upper substantially from the heel to the throat of the shoe against said form.

21. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extension back of the throat may be placed, said form having a side face inturned above its lower edge from the heel end forwardly to approximately the highest point of the shoe extension in a contour approximating the contour of the corresponding portion of the top rim of the shoe, and forwardly of said point in a more gradual inward and upward curve to approximately the plane of the central longitudinal axis of the shoe opening, and an outer presser member having a generally complemental pressure face for pressing the upper portion of a shoe side against said form.

22. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extension back of the throat may be placed, said form having opposite side faces in-turned from the heel end of said form forwardly to approximately the highest point of the corresponding shoe upper side extension, and approximately following the contour of said shoe upper side lengthwise, said side walls forwardly of said highest point curving inwardly toward each other more gradually and meeting in a forwardly and downwardly curved apex line arranged substantially in the central longitudinal vertical plane of the shoe opening to substantially the forward end of the shoe opening, side presser members having pressing faces generally complemental to said form, and means for actuating said members to press the side portions of a shoe against said form.

23. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward side extension back of the throat may be placed, said form having opposite side faces in-turned from the heel end of said form forwardly to approximately the highest point of the corresponding shoe upper side extension, and approximately following the contour of said shoe upper side lengthwise, said side walls forwardly of said highest point curving inwardly toward each other more gradually and meeting in a forwardly and downwardly curved apex line arranged substantially in the central longitudinal vertical plane of the shoe opening to substantially the forward end of the shoe opening, side presser members having pressing faces generally complemental to said form, and means for actuating said members to press the side wall portions of a shoe against said form with a component of motion toward the top of said shoe sides.

24. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward side extension back of the throat may be placed, said form having a. side face in contact with which said extension may be pressed, said side face being inclined forwardly toward the longitudinal axis of the shoe, and a side presser member having a generally complementally shaped pressing surface for pressing said extension against said face.

25. In combination, a form over which a shoe having eyelets may be placed, said form having a side wall portion against which the shoe upper may be engaged, and means engaging said upper along its margin actuable to press said upper against said form while said eyelets are substantially relieved of such pressure.

26. In combination, a pair of members between which the eyeleted portion of a shoe upper may be pressed, at least one of said members being relieved in line with the eyelets of said portion whereby to effect pressure on said shoe upper adjacent to said eyelets in excess of the pressure at said eyelets.

27. In combination, a pair of members between which the eyeleted portion of a shoe upper may be pressed, at least one of said members being relieved and in line with the eyelets of said portion whereby to effect pressure on the marginal portion in excess of the pressure on said eyelets, and means for moving said members toward and from each other with a component of motion heightwise of the upper.

28. In combination, a form over which the upper of a shoe may be placed, means for pressing the sides of the upper against said form and means for pressing downwardly the toe portion of the shoe.

29. In combination, a form over which the upper of a shoe may be placed, means for pressing the sides of the upper against said form, and means exerting an upwardly directed pressure on the inside of the shoe adjacent to the throat portion.

30. In combination, a form having side walls with which the sides of a shoe upper placed over said form may be engaged, and a forward extension spring supported from said form having a part for yielding engagement with the inner face of the throat portion of said upper.

31. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said form having a side face inclined upwardly and forwardly toward the longitudinal axis of the shoe, and a side presser member for pressing the marginal portion of said extension against said face.

32. In combination, a form having a side of the general shape of the side of a last from the heel end forwardly to at least the throat of an Oidord shoe to be supported thereon, a side presser member having a pressing contour substantially following longitudinally the contour of said shoe upper margin, and means for relatively moving said form and side presser member to press the upper margin therebetween.

33. In combination, a form over which an Oxford shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said form having a side wall portion with which a side wall of the shoe upper may be engaged from the highest point of said extension forwardly substantially to the forward end of the shoe opening, said side wall being inclined in an upward and forward direction approaching an apex line in a plane substantially in the lateral center of the shoe opening, and a presser member for pressing the shoe along the forward outer edge of said extension against said form.

34. In combination, a form over which an Oxford shoe having an upward side extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said form having opposite side faces inturned above its lower edge from the heel end forwardly, said side faces approaching toward their forward end an apex line substantially in the center of the longitudinal plane of the shoe opening, and presser members for pressing the edge portions of the shoe upper against said form.

35. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extension of its side forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said extension being defined by a concave rear edge merging with the top edge of the shoe upper back from said extension, said form having an inwardly curved side face portion between its top and bottom faces following longitudinally the general contour of said concave rear edge and said top edge and having a side wall portion forwardly of said rear edge outwardly convex and of a flatter curvature than that of said side face portion, and a pressing member having a pressing face of substantially the contour of the top edge line of said upper from the heel end to the throat of the shoe for pressing the top margin of the shoe against said inwardly curved side face portion and against said side wall portion forwardly of said rear edge.

36. A form over which a shoe having a tongue may be placed, said form being shaped to support the shoe upper and having a recess to receive said tongue.

37. A form over which a shoe having a tongue may be placed, said form being shaped to support the shoe upper and having a recess in one side face to receive said tongue.

38. In combination, a form shaped to support the top marginal portion of the upper of a shoe placed over said form, and a member having a pressing portion shaped to engage said marginal portion and press it against said form, said member when in pressing position being out of close engagement with the vamp of the shoe adjacent to the forward end of the top opening of the shoe.

39. The step in the treatment of a shoe having an eyeleted portion, which comprises pressing said portion substantially from end to end while exerting a materially less pressure along the line of eyelets therein than adjacent to its upper margin.

MILTON L. DODGE.

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