US2230449A

US2230449A - Apparatus for treating shoe uppers

Info

Publication number: US2230449A
Application number: US690853A
Authority: US
Inventors: Milton L Dodge
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1933-09-25
Filing date: 1933-09-25
Publication date: 1941-02-04
Anticipated expiration: 1958-02-04

Description

Feb. 4, 1941. M. L. DODGE ,2

APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS I Filed Sept. '25, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 (/7! 7 fl 7 j; Z

44 i A; M

II Bil j; E:"'I

Feb. 4, 1941. M. L.- DODGE APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed Sept. 25, 1953 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Feb. 4, 1941. D DGE APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed Sept. 25, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Feb. 4, 1941.

M. L. DODGE APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed Sept. 25, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented Feb. 4, 1941 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 63 Claims.

This invention relates'to apparatus for treating shoe uppers, either before or after incorporation in shoes, and more especially, though not necessarily, Where linings are used and after the linings and outer have been secured together, and has for its object to provide an apparatus which will so act on the upper edge portions or skirtings of the upper that the upper edges of the linings will not show in the completed shoe, particularly when the shoe is being worn, and which when treating lasted shoes, straightens the sides of the top opening, turns the sides in toward each other, narrowing the opening, and otherwise improves the shape and appearance of the shoe upper. The apparatus also acts to shape and form the counter, when one is used, and more particularly toward its upper edge.

This application is a continuation in part of my application Serial Number 604,455, filed April 11, 1932, for Shoe upper and method of and apparatus for shaping the same.

It is customary to finish shoes .by a treeing operation during which the exterior surface of the upper is ironed by means of heated smoothing tools of suitable shapes, the heat of the treeing tools shrinking and smoothing the leather of the outside. As the outer and its lining are originally shaped together on the last without allowance for subsequent shrinking of either of these parts, the result of this shrinking of the outer is to leave the lining relatively larger so than there is a tendency for the rim portions of the upper about the opening of the shoe to curl outwardly and show the upper edge of the lining prominently. Because of weight of lining material and small space between the top stitching and the top edge of the shoe, at least in the better grades of Womens shoes the trimming of the lining in under the top of the outer in an eiTort to hide-the lining edge is difiicult. Even where the lining margin is out under the outer margin, it still shows sufficiently in almost all cases to detract from the appearance of the shoe. Removal of the shoe from the treeing form, moreover, tends to spread the sides of the opening apart, particularly at their forward ends, and to leave these side edges crooked. These effects are undesirable as they detract from the appearance of the shoe and also prevent a close hugging fit of the rim of the opening to the foot. According to the present invention this difliculty is overcome by providing a form member over which the portion of a shoe adjacent to the opening may be placed and presser members arranged to press the rim portions of the shoe against this form in such a manner as to turn the lateral rim portions of the shoe inwardly. The efiectiveness of this operation for its intended purpose may be increased by heating the form which acts to shrink a substantial portion of the adjacent lining so as to reduce the area of the lining relative to the outer. The efiectiveness of treatment may also be increased by producing a relative motion between the surfaces of the form and presser member so as to Wipe the outer toward its top margin, or hold the top margin of the outer while pressing the top margin of the lining down, thus relatively extending the outer and pressing the top edge of the outer over the edge of the lining toward or against the form so that it completely hides the upper edge of the lining, which also, by the pressure exerted between the form and member, is substantially thinned at its upper edge. The top openings of shoes may present raw edges or the outer may be finished in various ways such as by skiving and folding, by a French cord, piping, plain binding, or otherwise, as is well known in the art. The reference herein to the top edge margin of the outer or skirting is therefore intended to include the outer itself and any edge finishing part therefor which may be employed. The form member over which the shoe is placed is preferably made of such a shape as to permit the removal of the shoe after the pressing operation with minimum distortion at the opening. As a result, the rim portions of the upper adjacent to the opening of the shoe are set with a slight inward curve resisting outward turning so that the shoe presents a neat and trim appearance of particular value for displaying in a store and the rim of the opening hugs closely against the foot of the wearer when in use.

Besides the treeing operation, any of the openations, such as removing the last, cleaning the lining, or inserting a sock lining, tend to distort the upper of a pump or the like and to make subsequent treating of the shoe in accordance with this invention highly desirable. This treating may be eiiected either before or after the outer or upper and lining have been incorporated in the shoe as heretofore suggested, and it is also applicable when shoes are being repaired.

Besides treating the side portions of the upper adjacent to the opening, the ends of the shoe opening may be similarly treated, and the forward end or throat may be turned upward-1y or lifted, improving the fit of the shoe and eliminating the necessity of any other special lifting operatlon.

For a more complete understanding of the invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side elevation of one unit of the apparatus, this unit being particularly intended to operate on the sides of the shoe at the top.

Figure 2 is a detail section on line 22 of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a detail section on line 33 of Figure 2.

Figure 4 is a front elevation of the parts shown in Figure 1.

Figure 5 is a view similar to a portion of Fig-. ure 4, but with parts in diflferent positions.

Figures 6 and 7 are perspective views of cooperating forming members.

Figures 8 and 9 are perspective views of modifled cooperating forming members.

Figure 10 is a detail section on line Ill-i0 of Figure 8.

Figure 11 is a detail section to a larger scale online ll-H of Figure 1.

Figures 12 and 13 are views similar to Figure 11, but showing successive stages in .the forming operation.

Figure 14 is a perspective of a table for supporting four forming units.

Figure 15 is a perspective of a unit particularly suitable for treating the upper at the forward end of the top opening.

Figure 16 is a view somewhat similar to Figure 15 with parts broken away and showing the parts at or near the completion of the forming and pressing operation.

Figure 17 is a detail section on line il-ll of Figure 16-.

Figure 18 is a view somewhat similar to a por-' tion of Figure 17 and illustrating the condition of the shoe upper before the treatment shown in Figure 17.

Figure 19 is a fragmentary perspective of the outer forming member shown in Figures 15 to 1'7.

Figure 20 is a view similar to Figure 16, but illustrating apparatus for treating the heel end of the shoe upper.

Figure 21 is a view similar to a portion of Figure 20, but showing the shoe at or near the end of the treating operation.

Referring first to Figures 1 to 14, at l is indicated a table top preferably having a downturned flange 2 at its forward end. This table may be formed as shown in Figure 14 with a concave forward face 3 presented by the flange 2 and the top I may be supported at opposite ends on suitable legs or standards 4. Arranged at intervals along the length of the table top I may have cut in from the forward face 3 the substantially radially arranged slots 5 within each of which may be placed a bracket arm I0, which, as shown best in Figures 1 and 4, extends both above and below the table top I. As shown, each of the brackets may be secured to the forward face of the table as by screws ll passing through perforated ears 12 of a forward flange l3 of the bracket l8 intermediate its ends and into the member I. The upwardly extending portion of this bracket is formed in the shape of a goose neck M which supports at its free end a form member [5. The goose neck and the form member may be secured together by any suitable means, such as the screws l6 shown in Figures 1 and 4.

One shape of form member which may be used is shown detached in Figure 6 and may comprise a lower portion 20 having substantially straight sides for the major portion of its length and merging with a rounded end 2| and a narrower opposite end 22. The upper portion of the form comprises a neck 23 of reduced thickness terminating with a flanged head 24 for engagement with the free end of the goose neck l4 to which it is secured. The lower portion 20 of this form has inwardly curved side faces 25 merging with the neck 23 and with a substantially flat top face. At 26 is shown a perforation extending into the lower portion 20 and within which may be placed an electric heating unit 21 of any suitable description, such as is shown in Figures 1 and 4.

Cooperating with the form i5 is a pair of presser members 30, which, as shown, are carried at the upper ends of a pair of arms 3|, each pivoted as at 32 to portions of the bracket I0. These arms 31 extend below their pivotal points 32 and their lower ends are joined by a pair of links 35, each pivoted at its outer end as at 36 to one of the arms 3| and the two pivoted together at their inner ends as at 31. The pivot 31 is carried at the upper end of a rod 38 which is guided for vertical sliding movement through a guide boss 40 shown as integral with the bracket Hi just beneath the table flange 2. At the extreme inner end of the arm l0 it has pivoted thereto, as at 45 suitable actuating mechanism such as a hand lever 46 which is connected by a link 4! pivoted thereto to the lower end of the rod 38. The lever 46, as shown, is provided with a handle 48 at its outer end by which it may be rocked. Downward motion of the handle 48 from the position shown in Figures 1 and 4 acts to straighten or make the toggle links 35, as shown in Figure 5, which in turn swings in the presser members to press the straight runs of the upper of a low cut shoe placed about the form I5 against the sides of this form.

The presser members 30 are each provided with a mold surface or face 50 generally complementary to a face 25 of the form l5, and, as shown on Figures 11, 12 and 13, each presser member is preferably covered by yielding surface material such as a layer of rubber shown at 5|, which may be faced with a light leather facing 52, the edges of which may be secured together on the back face of the presser member as by a lacing 53 (shown best in Figure 1). By generally complementary is meant that when the pressing members are in pressing relation to a shoe upper on the form, the upper is pressed throughout substantially the length of the presser member along at least its upper edge portion, though this pres sure is not necessarily substantially uniform in amount throughout the area pressed.

The outer 6D and the lining 6| of a shoe, top stitched together as at 62, as shown in Figure 11, is placed about the form l5 and between this form and the presser members 30. This outer and lining, topstitched together and as received from the usual treeing operation during which the outer is somewhat shrunken, commonly are somewhat spaced apart below the top stitching as shown at 63 by reason of the shrinking to which the outer has been subjected, or because of poor lasting of the lining which leaves it full. Commonly the outer lining and counter are adhesively secured together somewhat below the top stitching so that the outer and lining are effectively held together from about the point 64 downwardly (see Figure 11). By downward pressure exerted on the handle 48 the pressing members 30 are then brought progressively toward the form 15 in a manner to clamp the outer and lining therebetween. As shown in Figure 12, the parts are so proportioned that the portion of the form 30 first to engage the upper engages it about in line with the point 54 so that the outer and. lining are held against the form from this point and are progressively compressed between this point and the top margins of the upper. This action prevents the crowding down of the lining relative to the outer, producing a .pucker therebetween and pressing this so that it becomes a wrinkle in the lining. As the pressure is increased between the presser members and the form, the facing 5i of each presser member 30 is brought back into contact with the member and the lining and outer are pressed firmly together between the presser member and form. The angularity of the confronting faces of these parts is such that the form is sprung downwardly between the presser members, the goose neck yielding sufficiently for this action to take place, and this together with the direction of motion in which the presser members are forced thereagainst, causes opposite components of motion heightwise of the shoe along the faces of the outer and lining. This pressure cause-s the top edge of the lining to be thinned so that it is not as noticeable as before the operation, and when the outer and lining are so secured together that sufficient relative motion is possible, the surface components of motion act to form the top edge of the lining in under the top edge of the outer and to extend the top edge of the outer inwardly thereof toward or in contact with the form 15. Engagement of the lining on the form l5 prevents the lining from creeping upwardly with the outer and the heat to which the lining is subjected tends to shrink the lining, thus further to prevent the top edge of the lining from being moved with the outer, the form acting to hold back the lining while the outer is extended thereover, as shown best in Figure 13. It will be noted also that the top edge of the lining is thinned by the pressure and that the line of top stitching at H! is caused to become inclined inwardly and downwardly rather than being perpendicular to the outer faces of the upper as shown in Figures 11 and 12 as when the stitching was done.

As shown in Figures 11 to 13, inclusive, the top edge of the outer is finished off by a piping which is folded over the edge of the outer and extended between it and the lining. It is also common to skive the topedge of the outer on the flesh side and fold it over to present the grain face of the leather on the top edge of the outer. With either construction the action of the machine is tofeather the top edge of the lining and to bend the folded edge of the upper, whether the piping or the skived edge of the outer, toward the adjacent plane of the feathered lining edge and to iron out any depression formed in the exposed face of the upper during the top stitching operation as by the tightening of the stitching in place.

The bottom of the form is downwardly pre sented so that the top edge of the shoe upper throughout its entire length may be properly positioned thereon with the edge up and in full view of the operator who is able to see that the proper action of the machine is produced at each actuation thereof.

By reason of the relatively straight lengthwise outlines of the lower portion 20 of the form 15, the side edges of the foot opening of the shoe are straightened and turned in as well as the outer extended over the upper edge of the lining or the 'lining pushed down so that the outer conceals the lining at the top. As the form is narrower at its heel end, the heel end of the opening is also narrowed as is also desirable and the shape of the entire heel end portion of the shoe including the counter when one is: used, as is usual, is improved.

As shown in Figure 14, the'heaters for the forms 15 may be regulated by a suitable rheostat as at '15, connections being made from the rheostat to suitable sockets 18 from which connections may be made to the individual heaters as through the usual outlet plugs T! and lead wires 18, as shown in Figure 1.

In order that the uppers may be subjected to the proper amount of pressure, means may be provided as shown best in Figures 2 and 3 to adjust the pivotal connection between the toggle links 35 and the arms 31. As therein shown the lower end of each arm 3! is provided with a slot 86 through which extends the pivot pin 35, this pin extending through the forked extremity 8! of a link 35. Through the end wall of the slot 8| may be threaded an adjusting screw 82 which bears at its inner end against the pivot pin 36. By adjustment of this screw 82 the corresponding arm 3| may be rocked so as to determine: its inward rocked position when the'toggle links are made or straightened, as shown best in Figure 5 In order to accurately determine the positionof the upper when placed over the form, a gage may be provided as shown at 90 in Figures 1, 6, 8 and 10. As shown this gage comprises a wire having one end secured in a nut B! mounted for vertical movement within a counterbored hole 92 near the heel end of the form 15. A spring 83 seated in this counterbored portion holds the nut 9| upwardly as far as it permitted by its engagement with an adjusting screw'M having its head 95 seated in a socket 91 in the lower face of the form, the stem. of the screw passing through the small diameter portion of the hole 92' and being threaded into the nut 9i A portion of the wire 90 passes through a slot 98 so as to prevent the nut and gage element from being rocked out of pro-per gaging position.

In Figures 8 and 9 somewhat modified forms and presser members are shown, particularly intended for use on shoes of the oxford type, such shoes having upwardly extending forward portions of the quarters or vamp back of the throat of the shoe and which form closure wings. The form I00 of Figure 8 is provided at its forward portion with side walls gradually approaching each other toward the head 24 rather than being sharply curved inwardly as in the form shown in Figure 6, so that these upwardly extended quarter portions or wings of the oxford shoe may be laid up flat against these side portions and thus ironed and pressed during the action of the apparatus. The faces of the wing portions of the outer presser forms or molds thus constitute substantial continuations of the shaping contours of the base portions though they are inherently of greater resiliency. The presser lill' is formed substantially complementally to the side walls of the form m as shown in Figure 9 in which figure the yielding facing for the form has been omitted for the sake of clarity, so as to engage and press the upwardly extended shoe portions along substantially their entire margins simultaneously when the rearward top upper margins are being pressed.

The wings of oxford shoes often carry along their forward margins the eyelet stays and eye 'lets so that when such a shoe is in the pressing machine, both the form and the outer presser members present portions to engage and press the eyelet stay outwardly of the eyelets as well as the top margin of the shoe rearwardly of the wings, the effective pressing contours of the cooperating parts substantially following the top edge contour of the shoe including that of the upward extensions or wings.

The forms shown in Figures 6 and 7 may be used with shoes of the oxford type, but for best results require more care in positioning the quarter portions on the form than is necessary with forms such as shown in Figure 8. Inconnection with pumps the form and presser element such as shown in Figures 6 and 7 are preferred.

In a shoe factory it has usually been found desirable to use four presser and heating units for each table, as shown in Figure 14. For repair shops it will usually be found desirable to use a smaller number of units on a single table, as, for example, two.

Besides so treating the shoe as to straighten the sides of the upper at the shoe opening and to extend the outer materials over and to conceal the top edges of the linings, the same action may be produced on the end portions of the shoe opening as well as the sides. Figures 15 to 19 illustrate a construction particularly suitable for performing this operation on the forward end or throat of the shoe opening and also for lifting the edge of the upper materials at this end, turning them upwardly so that the shoe more comfortably fits the foot of the wearer. This obviates the necessity of the usual lifting operation heretofore performed on this portion of the shoe as a separate operation. Referring to these figures, at H is shown a goose neck bracket or support secured in any suitable way to a table top I I I, this goose neck or bracket carrying at its free end a form I I2 which is preferably provided with some means for heating it, as, for example, the electrical heating unit H3. This form H2 is provided with an upper face I I4 which is preferably concave lengthwise to a greater degree than the usual contour of the shoe upper as lasted. The shoe is placed over this form as shown in dotted lines in Figure and beneath the form may, if desired, be placed the supporting shims or wedges II5, which form a, bearing for the lower face of the form I I2 and facilitate, by suitable manipulation of the shoe, pulling upwardly of the rear edge portion of the shoe upper at the forward end of the shoe opening as at H6. Cooperating with this heated form may be a somewhat forked presser member I20 shown in perspective in Figure 19. This presser member may be carried by a lever I2I fulcrumed at I22 on the free end of the goose neck bracket I III. A spring I23 may be employed to normally hold the lever I2I in the position shown in this figure and with the presser member I20 spaced from the form II2. A stop I24 on the lever I2I engaging a face of the bracket I I0 may be employed to limit the pivotal motion imparted by the spring I23. This member I20 may be provided with a yieldable facing as at I25 shown in Figures 16 and 17, which, by rocking of the lever I2I, may be brought into engagement with the outer face of the upper, forcing the upper down against the concave face I I4, thus turning upwardly the throat portion IIG, which action may be further enhanced by the operator drawing downwardly on the shoe with his hand. As the concave face I I4 is more nearly vertical atits upper than at'its lower end, the amount to which the throat portion III; of the -shoe;is raised may be regulated by placing the shoe upper more or less rearwardly on the form.

In many types of shoes, as shown in Figure 18, the lining is seamed together substantially centrally' from the point IIG somewhat forwardly, as shown at I26, and this pressing of the upper between the form H2 and the presser member I20 irons this seam down flat, while at the same time the part H6 is raised into somewhat the position shown in Figure 17. At the same time the presser member I20 is given a component of motion backwardly along the face of the upper, and this, aided by the yielding facing I25, causes the outer materials to be wiped upwardly and rearwardly and pressed down toward the form II2 over the top edge of the lining, thus concealing the 1ining at this portion of the shoe in the same manner that the side presser members and the forms I5 and I00 hereto-fore described accomplish the same result at the side portions of the shoe opening.

Similarly the heel end portion of the upper may be treated so as to extend the outer over the top edge of the lining and to press and iron down the heel seam of the upper materials. Apparatus for doing this is shown in Figures 20 and 21. The bracket I shown in these figures,

which may be of goose neck construction similar to the bracket IIO, has secured to its free end the heel form I3I which is provided with a convex face I32 over which the heel end portion of the shoe may be placed. A lever I33 fulcrumedat I34 to the bracket I30 may be provided' with an arm I35 to which is pivotally connected at I36 the rear end portion of a heel presser member I31, the relationship being such that as the outer end of the lever I33 is depressed, the presser member I31 is forced downwardly against the shoe and with a component of pressure toward the top edge of the shoe. In order that the presser member may follow along in close contact with the shoe upper, the outer end of the presser member is yieldingly held pressed toward the shoe so that it may be dragged along in contact with the shoe upper as the pivot point I36 is moved rearwardly. As shown this is accomplished by a compression spring I38 reacting between the member I31 and the handle I33 and to limit the pivotal motion of the presser member I31 produced by this spring, a suitable stop such as the yoke-shaped member I may be provided, the ends of its arms being pivoted to opposite sides of the member I31 at I39 and;

its intermediate portion passing over the top of the lever I33, being provided with an abutment screw I42 and check nut I43 by which the limit of separation between the forward end of the member I31 and the lever I33 may be determined. This presser member I31 is also preferably provided with a facing of yieldable material as at I for contact with the shoe upper.

While the constructions heretofore illustrated and described are particularly suitable for treatment of shoe uppers after they have been assembled in shoes, it is of-course evident that the upper materials might be treated before assembly in the shoes if desired, although the straightening effects at the sides of the shoe opening would not then be fully realized because of the subsequent operations incident to making the shoes tending to distort them.

From the foregoing description of certain embodiments of this invention, it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications might be made without departing from the spirit or scope of this invention as defined by the appended claims. I claim:

1. A shoe upper forming apparatus, compris'- ing inside and outside former members between which a shoe upper including outer and lining may be positioned, and operative connections between said members actuable to close said members in clamping engagement with the shoe outer and lining and to move said members relatively transverse to the length of the shoe in opposite directions along opposite faces of the top edges 15 of the outer and lining to form the top margin of the lining under the top margin of the outer and to project the outer over the top margin of the lining.

2. A shoe upper forming apparatus, comprising inside and outside former members between which a shoe upper including the lining may be positioned, operative connections between said members actuable to close said members in clamping engagement with the shoe outer and lining and to move said members relatively in opposite directions along opposite faces of the outer and lining transverse to the length of the shoe and along its top edges, to form the top margin of the lining under the top margin of. the outer and to project the outer over the top margin of the lining, and means for heating the inside former member.

3. A shoe upper forming apparatus, comprising a member over which the top portion of a shoe upper may be placed, a presser member engageable with the outer face of the upper, and means actuable to force said presser member against said upper with a component of motion directed toward said margin.

4. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises an elongated form over which a. shoe may be placed adjacent to the opening theerof, the sides of said form curving inwardly at the top and being straight lengthwise substantially 45 from end to end, means for heating said form,

a pair of presser elements adapted to engage the outside of the shoe on the side portions adjacent to the rim of the opening substantially from the heel to the throat, and means for pressing said 50. elements toward said member.

5. Apparatus of the class described, comprising a table, a support bracket thereon, an elongated form on said support bracket adapted to have placed thereon the top portion of a shoe 55 adjacent to the opening thereof, the sides of said form curving inwardly at the top, means for heating said form, a pair of levers rockably mounted on said table so that their upper ends can swing toward and from each other, a pair 60 of presser members carried by said levers and movable thereby into engagement with the sides of said form, said members having concaved faces confronting the sides of said form and approximately complemental thereto, and means for rocking said levers to press said members against said form.

6. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a member adapted to enter the opening of a shoe and to present within the shoe a substantially flat top face over which the top rim of said upper may be pressed, and means for pressing a shoe upper placed over said form against said face.

'7. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a member adapted to enter the opening of a shoe and having an in-turned side face at the top over which the top rim of said upper may be pressed, and a presser member movable to press said top rim over said face.

8. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a member adapted to enter the opening of a shoe and having in -turned side faces at the top for a portion of its length over which the sides of the top rim of an oxford type shoe upper may be pressed from adjacent to its heel end for a portion of its length, said member having inwardly sloping side faces forwardly of said in-turned faces and extending thereabove and against which the upwardly extending forward portions of the shoe upper may be engaged.

9. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a member adapted to enter the opening of a shoe and having an in-turned side face at the top for a portion of its length over which a side of the top rim of an oxford type shoe upper may be pressed from adjacent to its heel end for a portion of its length, said member having an inwardly sloping side face forwardly of said in-turned face and extending thereabove and against which an upwardly extending forward side portion of the shoe upper may be engaged, and a side presser element shaped to press the rear portion of a side of said upper adjacent to its top against said in-turned face and the forward portion of said side against said sloping face.

10. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which a shoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said form for pressing the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of pivoted arms each supporting one of said presser members, a pair of toggle links pivoted to and between said arms arranged to swing said members toward said form when said toggle links are moved toward made position, and means for actuating said toggle links.

11. Apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which a shoe upper maybe placed, presser members on opposite sides of said form for pressing the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of pivoted arms each supporting one of said presser members, a pair of toggle links pivoted to and between said arms arranged to swing said members toward said form when said toggle links are moved toward made position, means for adjusting the pressure exerted between said form and members when said toggle is made, and means for actuating said toggle links.

12. Apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which a shoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said form for pressing the shoe upper thereagains't, a pair of pivoted arms each supporting one of said presser members, a pair of toggle links pivoted to and between said arms arranged to swing said members toward said form when said toggle links are moved toward made position, means for adjusting the pivotal connections between said links and arms to thereby adjust the pressure exerted between said form and presser members when said toggle is made, and means for actuating said toggle links.

13. An apparatus of the class described, com

prising a yieldable support, a form carried by the free end of said support and having side" faces inclined toward each other at their upper said form faces, and means for simultaneously moving said members to effect pressing or releasing of said upper and lining, said support yielding under pressure exerted between said forms and member to produce a wiping motion therebetween.

14. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a goose neck support, a form carried by the free end of said support having side faces inclined toward each other at their upper portions and about which form a shoe upper may be placed, a pair of presser members having faces generally complemental to said form faces mounted for pivotal movement toward and from said form faces, and means for simultaneously moving said members to effect pressing or releasing of said upper, said goose neck yielding under pressure exerted between said forms and member to produce a wiping motion therebetween.

15. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a pair of forming members having confronting faces for engagement with opposite faces of a shoe upper of the oxford type, said members having upward extensions of said faces at one end for engagement with the opposite faces of the forward upper end of the quarter of said shoe upper.

16. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a pair of forming members having confronting faces for engagement with opposite faces of the side portions of a shoe upper, and a gage adjustable to determine the position of the shoe upper between said members.

17. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a pair of forming members having con- :fronting faces for engagement with opposite faces of the side portions of a shoe upper, and a gage carried by one of said members against which the top of the upper may be placed and adjustable from and toward the opposite side of said one member.

18. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a table having a slot in its forward edge, a bracket member secured in said slot and projecting above and below the top of said table, said upwardly projecting portion being of goose neck shape, a form about which the top marginal portions of a shoe upper may be engaged, spaced arms pivotally connected to said bracket member below said form, a presser member carried by the free end of said goose neck at the upper end of each arm positioned to swing toward and from said form, a pair of toggle links joining said arm below their pivotal connections, an actuating lever pivoted to the lower end of said bracket, and operative connections between said lever and said toggle links.

19. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped to support the upper of a shoe, a presser member, and means for forcing said presser member toward said form and with a component of motion laterally of the length of the shoe along the supporting surface of said form.

20. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped to support the upper of a shoe and adjacent to one end of the foot opening, a presser member, and means for forcing said presser member toward said form and with a component of motion laterally of the length of the shoe along the supporting surface of said form.

21. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped to support a shoe upper adjacent to one end of the foot opening, a presser member, and means for forcing said presser member toward said form and with a component of motion laterally of the length of the shoe along the supporting surface of said form, said presser member having a yieldable facing for contact with said shoe upper.

22. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped to support the throat portion of a shoe upper, said form having a longitudinally concaved upper face, a presser member, and means for actuating said presser member to press the upper against and conform it to the concavity of said face.

23. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped to support the throat portion of a shoe outer and lining top-stitched together, said form having a longitudinally concaved upper face, a presser member, and means for actuating said presser member in a direction to press the outer and lining against and conform them to the concavity of said face and to Wipe the outer toward the top thereof to extend it beyond the margin of said lining.

24. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped to support the throat portion of a shoe outer and lining top-stitched together, said form having a longitudinally concaved upper face, a presser member, means for actuating said presser member in a direction to press the outer and lining against and conform them to the concavity of said face and to wipe the outer toward the top thereof to extend it beyond the margin of said lining, and means for heating said form.

25. A shoe upper forming apparatus, comprising inside and outside former members between which a shoe upper comprising an outer and lining top-stitched together may be placed, said inside former member being shaped to the heel end portion of the shoe to receive thereover the heel end of said upper, and means for forcing said outside former member toward said inside former member with a component of motion directed toward the top edge of the upper to thereby press the outer and lining and to extend the top margin of the outer beyond the top margin of the lining.

26. A shoe upper forming apparatus, comprising inside and outside former members between which a shoe upper comprising an outer and lining top-stitched together may be placed, said inside former member being shaped to the heel end portion of the shoe to receive thereover the heel end of said upper, means for forcing said outside former member toward said inside former member with a component of motion directed toward the top edge of the upper to thereby press the outer and lining and to extend the top margin of the outer beyond the top margin of the lining, and means heating said inside former member.

2'7. A shoe upper forming apparatus comprising inside and outside former members between which a shoe upper including a lining and outer top-stitched together may be placed, a support carrying said inside former member, and a lever fulcrumed on said support and carrying said outside former member in position to effect a pressing and wiping action on the outer and lining heightwise of the upper on swinging said lever in one direction.

28. A shoe upper forming apparatus compris ing inside and outside former members, said inside former member having a concave face over which the throat portion of a shoe may be placed, a support carrying said inside former member, a

lever pivoted to said support eccentric to said face and carrying said outside former-member in position to press the shoe upper on saidinside' former member with a component of motion heightwise of the upper directed along said face.

29. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a support, a form carried by said support and having a convex face over which may be engaged the heel end portion of a shoe upper, a lever pivoted to said support, a presser member having a concave face for pressing the shoe upper against the convex face of said form, means pivotally connecting said presser member adjacent to one end to said lever in position for said member to be moved toward and longitudinally of the convex face of said form, and means for yieldingly pressing said presser member about said pivotal means toward said form.

30. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a support, a form carried by said support and having a convex face over which may be engaged the heel end portion of a shoe upper, a lever pivoted to said support, a presser member having a concave face for pressing the shoe upper against the convex face of said form, means pivotally connecting said presser member adjacent to one end to said lever in position for said member to be moved toward and longitudinally of the convex face of said form, means for yieldingly pressing said presser member about said pivotal means toward said form, and a stop for limiting the pivotal motion producible by said yielding means.

31. A shoe upper treating apparatus having a form over which the upper of a lasted shoe may be placed for treating with the top edge thereof in full view of the operator throughout substantially its entire extent, and means for treating the sides of the shoe upper along their top margins.

32. A shoe upper treating apparatus having a form over which the upper may be placed for treating, means movable toward the sides of the upper and cooperating with said form to treat the upper adjacent to its top margin, and means supporting said form and treating means to present the top edge of the upper toward and in view of the operator as the shoe is being treated.

33. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which the throat portion of a shoe upper including an outer and lining may be drawn, a presser member engageable with the outer face of the shoe upper, and means for relatively manipulating said form and presser member in a manner to wipe and extend the outer of the upper beyond the lining at their top margins.

34. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which the throat portion of a shoe upper including an outer and lining may be drawn, a presser member engageable with the outer face of the shoe upper, and means for relatively manipulating said form and presser member in a manner to extend the outer of the upper beyond the lining at their top margins, said form having its face for engagement with the shoe provided with a concavity formed to determine by the position of the shoe thereon the amount to which the throat of said shoe shall be raised by the operation of said apparatus.

35. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which a shoe upper may be placed, a member actuable to press saidupper against said form, a presser actuating member movable to apply the pressure and having a limit of pressure-applying movement, and means adjustable to determine the amount of pressure exerted by said presser member when said actuating member is moved to said limit.

36. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extension on each side back from its throat may be placed, and means for pressing said extensions along substantially their entire margins against a portion of said form.

3'7. In combination, a form over which a shoe upper having upward extensions on each side back from the throat may be placed, said form having its side walls in-turned toward each other at the top in its rear portion and an upward extension forwardly of said rear portion, and means for pressing the rear top margins of a shoe upper placed over said form against said in-turned portions of said side walls and said upper extensions against the sides of said form extension.

38. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a form adapted to enter the opening of a shoe and to present within the shoe for a portion of its length at the top a side face in-turned for supporting the surface of the corresponding side portion of the shoe upper adjacent to the shoe opening, a presser member adapted to engage the outside of the shoe adjacent to the rim of the opening and to press said rim against said in-turned side face, and means for pressing said member toward said form.

39. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a form adapted to enter the opening of a shoe and to present within the shoe at its back portion a side face in-turned at the top for supporting the surface of the corresponding side portion of the upper adjacent to the shoe opening, a presser member adapted to engage the outside of the shoe upper adjacent to the rim of the opening and to press this rim against said inurned side face, and means for pressing said member toward said form.

40. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises an elongated form over which a shoe may be placed adjacent to the opening thereof, the sides of said form curving inwardly and being straight lengthwise substantially from end to end, means for heating said form, a pair of presser elements adapted to engage the outside of the shoe on the side portions adjacent to the rim of the opening substantially from the heel to the throat, and means for pressin said elements toward said member.

41. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which a shoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said form for pressing the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of pivoted arms each supporting one of said members, toggle links connecting said arms, and means for actuating said toggle links tomove said members toward or away from said form.

42. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which a shoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said form for pressing the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of arms each supporting one of said members and pivoted on an axis arranged substantially lengthwise of said form, and means actuable to swing said arms to bring said members from or toward said form.

43. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which a shoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said form for pressin the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of arms each supporting one of said members and pivoted on an axis arranged substantially lengthwise of said form, toggle links connecting said arms, and means for actuating said toggle links to bring said members toward or from said form.

44. In a re-forming machine, the combination with an inside shaping form, of an outside shaping form to press the skirting only along at lea-st one straight run of the top edge of a shoe into conformity to the Shaping contour of the inside form, said outside form being movable towards and from the inside form about an axis parallel to the longitudinal center line of the inside form.

45. In a re-forming machine, the combination with a stand, an inside shaping form secured thereto and adapted to fit within and support a low-cut shoe, arms pivoted to the stand for movement toward and away from the opposite sides of said inside form, and outside shaping forms secured to the arms, respectively, and movable therewith, said inside and outside shaping forms having coacting, substantially complementary mold surfaces adapted to engage and press between them ahe skirtings only along the straight runs of the top edge of the shoe, of means for swinging the arms on the stand to bring the mold surfaces of the outside forms into engagement with the shoe mounted upon the inside form and press said skirtings against the mold surface of the inside form.

46. A re-forming machine having, in combination, a head, an inside shaping mold fixed to said head and accessible to the operative for placing the shoe thereon, an outside shaping form connected to said head for movement toward and from said inside mold about an axis parallel to the longitudinal center line of said inside mold, means for moving said outside form to press the skirtings along at least one straight run of the top edge of a shoe into conformity with the shaping contour of the inside mold, said moving means including a member adapted to vary the extent of movement of the outside form, and means to lock said outside form in its pressing position.

4'7. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings, coacting pressing forms having substantially complementary shaping surfaces for contacting the inner and outer surfaces of the skirting along the top edge of at least one side of the shoe and the wing thereof, at least one of said forms comprising a base portion for contacting the top edge skirting and a wing carried by the base portion for contacting the shoe wing.

48. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings, coacting pressing forms having substantially complementary shaping surfaces for contacting the inner and outer surfaces of the skirting along the top edge of at least one side of the shoe and the wing thereof, at least one of said forms comprising a base portion having a molded shaping contour for contacting the top edge skirting and a wing carried by the base portion for contacting the shoe wing, one surface of said form wing being substantially continuous with the shaping contour of the base portion.

49. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings, a form over which a shoe may be placed to present within the shoe surfaces for engagingthe wings thereof and the side portions of the upper adjacent the shoe opening, a pair of presser elements adapted to engage the outside of the shoe on the wings and on the side portions adjacent the rim of the shoe opening, and means for swinging said presser elements laterally of said form into pressing position with respect to said form.

50. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings, a form over which a shoe may be placed to present within the shoe surfaces for engaging the wings thereof and the side portions of the upper adjacent the shoe opening, a pair of presser elements adapted to engage the outside of the shoe on the wings and on the side portions adjacent the rim of the shoe opening, and means for moving said presser elements along paths, respectively, extending substantially normal to the longitudinal axis of the form to press said presser elements towards said form.

51. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings, coacting pressing forms having substantially complementary shaping surfaces for contacting the inner and outer surfaces of the skirting along the top edge of at least one side of the shoe and the wing thereof, at least one of said forms comprising a base portion for contacting the top edge skirting and a wing carried by the base portion for contacting the shoe wing, and means for swinging said last named form into contact with said top edge skirting and said wing.

52. In a shoe upper shaper, a form adapted to support a shoe and to facilitate an operation upon the upper thereof, said form having a conformation shaped generally to the desired shape of the foot opening in the shoe and having an end portion shaped to receive the heel portion of the upper and the other end portion contoured to accommodate elements of the upper adjacent the forward end of the foot opening, said form being provided with areas located to support the forward portions'of the quarters of the uppers, and cooperating outer pressing means shaped and mounted to bear against said heel portion and areas as well as the sides of said form.

53. The combination with a pressing element for shoe upper shapers comprising a slightly concave body portion having one end widened to engage the forward and upper portion of the quarter'of a shoe and its other end narrowed to engage the rear portion of the quarter and the heel portion of the shoe, and actuating means extending from said body portion, of a form cooperating therewith, contoured to the desired shape of the foot opening in the shoe, and provided with a portion effective to support the throat of the foot opening.

54. A shoe upper treating apparatus having a form over which the upper may be placed for treating with the top edge thereof in full view of the operator throughout substantially its entire extent, and means for treating the sides of the shoe upper along their top margins and substantially simultaneously throughout.

55. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings, coacting pressing forms having opposed shaping surfaces for contacting the inner and outer surfaces of the skirting along the top edge of at least one side of the shoe and the wing thereof, at least one of said forms having a base portion for contacting the top edge skirting and a wing constructed and arranged to have greater resiliency than the base portion for contacting the shoe wing.

56. In combination, a form shaped to support thereon a shoe having an eyelet stay, said form having is surface portion presented opposite to said stay and a surface portion back of said stay and opposite to the top margin of the shoe upper, and means for pressing in one operation the top margin of the shoe upper back of and along the outer edge of said eyelet stay against said form.

57. In combination, a form shaped to support thereon a shoe having an upward extension of its side back of the throat, said upward extension having a row of eyelets inwardly of its forward margin, said form having a. surface opposite to said extension and opposite to the top margin of the shoe back of said extension, and means for pressing the top margin of the shoe at said extension outwardly of said eyelets and back of said extension against said form.

58. In combination, a form shaped to support thereon a shoe having an upward extension of its side back of the throat, said upward extension having a row of eyelets inwardly of its forward margin, said form having a surface opposite to said extension and opposite to the top margin of the shoe back of said extension, and means for pressing the top margin of the shoe at said extension outwardly of said eyelets and back of said extension against said form with an upward component of such pressure on the outer face of the shoe upper.

59. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward side extension back of the throat may be placed, and a presser member having apressing contour substantially following the top edge contour of the shoe including that of said extension for pressing the marginal portion of said shoe side against said form.

60. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward side extension back of the throat may be placed, and a presser member having a pressing contour substantially following an edge contour of said extension for pressing the marginal portion of said shoe side extension against said form.

61. A top-edge treating machine having in combination, means engaging the lining adjacent the top seam, means engaging the upper adjacent the top seam, and mechanism for operating said means to feather the edge of the lining adjacent the top seam, and to bend the folded edge of the upper towards the adjacent plane of the feathered lining edge.

62. A top-edge treating machine having, in combination, means engaging the lining adjacent the top seam, means engaging the upper adjacent the top seam, and mechanism for operating said means to feather the edge of the lining adjacent the top seam and to iron out the depression formed in the exposed face of the upper during the top-stitching operation.

63. A top-edge treating machine having, in combination, means engaging the lining adjacent the top seam, means engaging the upper adjacent the top seam, and mechanism for operating said means to feather the edge of the lining adjacent the top seam, to iron out the depression formed in the exposed face of the upper during the top-stitching operation, and to bend the folded edge of the upper towards the adjacent plane of the feathered lining edge.

MILTON L. DODGE.