US2197928A

US2197928A - Method of making shoes

Info

Publication number: US2197928A
Application number: US232929A
Authority: US
Inventors: Sidney J Finn
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1938-10-03
Filing date: 1938-10-03
Publication date: 1940-04-23
Anticipated expiration: 1957-04-23

Description

April 1940. 5. J. FINN 2,197,928

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed 001;. 3, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 April 23, 1940. 5. J. FINN METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Oct. 5, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Apr-23,19 2,17,928?

UNITED srares PTENT OFFICE Sidney ll. Finn, Beverly, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. 'J., a corporation of'New Jersey Application October 3, 1938, Serial No. 232,929-

' 9 Claims. (01. 12-142 This invention relates to methods of making Fig. 4 is a perspective showing the trimming shoes and is herein described as practiced in the off of surplus material ,irom the lasting allowmaking of ladies pumps. ance of the box toe;

In the manufacture of shoes it is customary Fig. 5 is a perspective of the'shoe after the 5 to stitch together a lining and an upper, to place upper has been lasted, certain portions of the 5 a still molded counter between. them at their overlasted margin of the ,upper having been heel portions, and to mount this assembled mempulled up to show the cement; ber together with an insole upon a last. A tein- Fig. 6 is an elevation of the shoe ready to have porary limp box tee is placed between the upper the last pulled and the lining and upper stitched and the lining at their toe portions and then together along their upper edges; 7 10 the pulling-over andside-lasting operations iol- Fig. 'lis a section on an enlarged scale on the low. The tack which holds the extreme toe porline'VII-VII,of Fig. 6; I g tions of the upper lining and box toe is removed, Fig. 8 is an elevation of the forepart' of the and the greater part of the lasting allowance finished shoe; and

of the box toe is cut out; after which the toe Fig. 9 is a section on an enlarged scale on the'15 and heel are lasted and the subsequent operations line IXIX of Fig. 8. performed including the attaching of the outsole In carrying out the {method (Fig. 1) a lining and the heel. It is difiicult with this method to l5, which as shown is in two parts, is mounted cause the heel end of the assembly, which intogether with an insole I! upon ,a last l9 and 61116168 the pp the lining, and th Co te pulled over and lasted, a cement such as latex 2Q to take the exact shape of the heel portion of being employed, the upper edge of the. lining the last- T e fii u y S d largely o the aroundwhat will b'ethe foot opening in the finpresence of three layers of material to be shaped ish d shoe being fastened to. the last by tacks and to the fact that the molded Coun e d 2!. A molded counter 2a (Fig. 3) coated on its not h ve initially the exact Shape Of the heel inner face with cement s'uchas latex is placed 5 p rt n of the l and must e conformed to over the heel end of the lining and subjected to it more or less. Also after the shoe has been conforming operation r example t t pul v r. it i fii l satisfactorily to m tion of a conforming machine such as that shown off the surplus material of the lasting allowance in i 2 of the box toe. p This machine comprises a support for the Acc r in o he p s i v n n h parts last, a deformable rubber pad 21 having inits are all, or for the most part, mounted separately forw rd portion a generally U-shaped recess pon he l st r up n ea h oth r, he lining being to receive the heel portion of the partly fabri- D d e e o the upp i mounted 119 cated shoe, and a second deformable rubber pad it and the upper d l n being se arat y 29. The rubber pad 2? is mounted in a two-part formed to he last an Su q y being frame 3| the parts ofwhich are hinged together 35 o d th along their pper edges. By t about a pivot 33 carried by the frame of the method of procedure in which the parts are all, machine and may be swung from open to closed or for the mo p nf rm p r y to position and back again by suitably operated n the last and th Su p us ma 0f the bOX toe links one of which is shown at 35, said links being can be more readily and accurately removed, each pivoted at one of their ends to one of the shoe esu s w c s a a y as possible t parts of the pad frame 3!, the pivot for the link exact counterpart of the last upon which it was 35 being shown at 31.. The upper pad 29 is car-' made. riedby a plate 33 theupright stem of which is Referring now to the accompanying drawings, vertically slidable in a bore in an overhanging 4 Fig. 1 is a perspective of the shoe the lining arm '4! of the frame of the machine and is pro- Which has been l fi Over d p a y vided with a rack 43 with which meshes a pinlasted; ion, notshown, on a horizontal shaft 45 rotatably Fig. 2 is a perspective of the machine for conmounted in the overhanging arm and having at 5 forming the heel end of the lining and the coun one'end spokes 41 by which it may be turned to for to the heel end of the last; raise and lowerthe pad 29. The parts of "the Fig. 3 is a perspective of the shoe after the pad frame 3!.are first swung open to permitthe completion of the lasting of the lining and after heel end of a lasted shoe to be placed upon the having been operated upon by the machine of support and are then closed to cause the wings Fig. 2; and rear wall of the counter to be conformed to the shape of the heel portion of the last. This is the position of parts shown. Thereafter, the shaft is rotated to conform the inturned flange of the counter to the shape of the adjacent bottom surface of the last. The counter thus conformed is held in place by the cement.

As an alternative to that part of the method which has been thus far described a partly molded counter in the form commonly referred to as clam shell and the heel end of a lining with cement between them may be placed in a counter molding machine and molded together. The molded counter and lining may then be mounted together with an insole upon a last and pulled over and lasted, after which the heel portion of the partly fabricated shoe may be subjected to conforming pressure, for example, by means of the machine shown in Fig. 2. In either case the shoe at this stage of its manufacture will have the appearance shown in Fig. 3, the lining and the counter being conformed exactly to the adjacent portion of the last.

A limp box toe 49 (Fig. 4) such for example as one made of fabric impregnated with pyroxylin and soft or limp by reason of the presence in it of a volatile solvent, such as acetone, is now placed on the toe end of the lining and conformed to the toe portion of the last, after which the surplus .material, which consists of the greater part of the lasting allowance of the box toe, is trimmed off, for example by means of a hand knife 5|.

An upper 53 (Fig. 5) is mounted upon the lining, box toe, and counter and lasted, the overlasted margin being fastened to the overlasted margin of the lining and the inturned flange of the counter in any suitable manner, for example by cement such as latex, and also in the heel seat portion by tacks 52. The upper edge of this upper has previously been finished, for example in 40.

the manner shown in Figs. '7 and 9, by means of a strip of binding 55 which is first stitched at 51 to the display side of the upper and then folded about the attached portion and about the edge of the upper and cemented to the flesh side of the upper. The further manufacture of the shoe proceeds as usual including the attaching of an outsole 59 and a heel 6|. The tacks 2| which fasten the upper edge of the lining 15 to the last are removed, and the last is pulled. The upper and lining around the foot-opening of the shoe now have the appearance best shown in Fig. '7, the lining l5 projecting above the edge of the upper 53. The lining and upper are fastened together by stitches 63 after which the surplus projeoting portion of the lining is trimmed off, the finished shoe having the appearance shown in Fig. 8.

Although the invention has been described as a series of steps performed in' a certain order, it should be understood that the invention is not limited in the scope of its application to the use of all of the steps nor to the particular order in which they have been described.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: I

1. The method of making a shoe which comprises assembling a lining together with an insole upon a last, fastening the upper edge of the lining to the last, lasting the lining, assembling a molded counter on the heel portion of the lining, subjecting the counter to yielding pressure to conform it accurately to the last and fastening it in place, assembling a limp box toe upon the toe portion of the lining and conforming it to the shape of the last, trimming ofi the surplus marginal material of the box toe, assembling an upper over the lining, box toe and counter, lasting the upper, pulling the last, fastening the lining and the upper together along the edge of the footopening of the shoe, and trimming off the projecting portion of the lining.

,2. The method of making a shoe which comprises assembling a lining together with an insole upon a last, lasting the lining, assembling a molded counter on the heel portion of the lining, subjecting the counter to pressure exerted upon its wings and its inturned flange to conform it accurately to the last and fastening it in place, assembling an upper over the lasted lining and the counter, lasting the upper, pulling the last, and fastening the lining and upper together along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe.

3. The method of making a shoe which comprises assembling a lining together with an insole upon a last, fastening the upper edge of the lining to the last, lasting the lining, assembling a molded counter on the heel portion of the lining, subjecting the counter to pressure to conform it accurately to the last and fastening it in place, assembling an upper over the lasted lining and the counter, lasting the upper, pulling the last, fastening the lining and the upper together along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe, and trimming off the projecting portion of the lining.

4. The method of making a shoe which comprises assembling a lining together with an insole upon a last, fastening the upper edge of the lining to the last, lasting the lining, assembling a molded counter on the heel portion of the lining,

subjecting the counter to the action of deforma ble pressing means to conform it accurately to the last and fastening it in place, assembling an upper over the lasted lining and the counter,

lasting the upper, pulling the last, fastening the lining and the upper together along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe, and trimming off the projecting portion of the lining.

5. The method of making a shoe which comprises providing on a last an insole, a lining lasted thereto and a molded counter, subjecting the counter to the action of deformable pressing means exerted upon its wings and its inturned flange to conform it accurately to the last and fastening it in place, assembling an upper over F the lining and the counter, lasting the upper, pulling the last, and fasteningthe lining and upper together along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe.

6. The method of making a shoe which comprises providing on a last an insole, a lining lasted thereto and fastened along its upper edge to the last, and a molded counter, subjecting the counter to pressure to conform it accurately to the last, fastening it in place, assembling an upper over the lasted lining, lasting the upper, pulling the last, fastening the lining and the upper together along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe, and trimming off the projecting portion of the lining.

7). The method of making a shoe which comprises providing on a last an insole, a lining lasted thereto and fastened along its upper edge to the last, and a molded counter, subjecting the counter to the action of deformable pressing means to conform it accurately to the last, fastening it in place, assembling an upper over the lasted lining, lasting the upper, pulling the last, fastening the lining and the upper together along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe, and trimming ofi the projecting portion of the lining.

I 2,197,928 8. The method of making ashoe which com-- prises assembling a lining together with an insole upon a last, fastening the upper margin of the lining to the last, lasting the lining, assembling an upper upon the lasted lining, lasting the upper, removing the fastening means, pulling the last, fastening the lining and the upper together along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe, and trimming off the projecting-portion of the 10 lining.

9. The method of making a shoe'which com ble of becoming hard and resilient, conforming the box toe to the toe portion of the last, trimming olf surplus material from the lower margin of the box toe, assembling an upper on the lining and box toe, lasting the upper, pulling the last and fastening the lining and upper together along the edge of the foot-openingof the shoe.

SIDNEY r J. FINN.