US2186356A

US2186356A - Collar

Info

Publication number: US2186356A
Application number: US176052A
Authority: US
Inventors: Bihaly Ludwig
Original assignee: TRUBENIZING PROCESS CORP
Current assignee: TRUBENIZING PROCESS Corp
Priority date: 1937-11-23
Filing date: 1937-11-23
Publication date: 1940-01-09
Anticipated expiration: 1957-01-09
Also published as: NL47879C; FR846418A; DE698641C; GB521569A

Description

an- 9, 194 L. BIHALY 2,186,356

' COLLAR Filed Nov. 23, 1957 INVENTOR Lu dwig Bihaly BY ATTORNEY atented Jan. 9, 1940 COLLAR I Ludwig Bihaly; London, England, assignor to Trubenizing' Process Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application November 23, i937, Se -ial-No.176,05 2 '7 Claims. (01. .z-Jsn' This invention relates to a collar or the like,

' and more particularly to a collar of the fold-over type comprising a collar top portion and aband portion.

It is well known that the points or corners of such a collar often have a tendency to curl in The principal object of my invention is to provide a collar with self-contained'means for counteracting this objectionable curling tendena simple and inexpensive manner, and in such a way as not to interfere with the usual manufacturin technique, or with the launderability of the collar.

Broadly speaking, my invention comprises the application to the collar top of a fabric part having a greater shrinkage than the other fabric parts thereof, andso located that after the. collar top is wetted or moistened the differential shrinkage will cause its points to curl inwardly, and thus counteract their normal tendency to our outwardly in wear, v

The invention may be applied to a collar of either the shirt-attached or the separate type. It is particularly applicable to a so-called fused collar of semi-soft or semi-stiff finish,-wherein the plies are adhesively united. Such collars have some resistance to compression in the plane of the collar, which resistance to compression isgreatest' at the seamed-inedges. It may be used effectively in other collars of such structure as to have an appreciable resistance to compres-' sion in the plane of the collar top, either throughout the length of the collar, or in the vicinity of its points only. Such compressive resistance is necessary as otherwise the differential shrinkage would merely result in puckering the collar. The invention may even be applied to a collar of the soft fold type which normally does not have any appreciable resistance to compression. However, in such case, the points should be stretched during launderin to avoid puckering the ends,

and the collar should be starched to provide the necessary compressive resistance. g

In carrying out my invention I prefer toemploy tapes or fabric strips having the desired shrinkage characteristic, and to locate the tapes in the seamed end edges of the collar top. The tapes may, however, be placed in other positions at or in the vicinity of the ends. In each instance the tapes should be so positioned in relation to the collar top that the differential shrinkage will tend to curl the points inwardly.

Other objects are'to accomplish thisresult in Av preferred embodiment of the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in

which;

Figure 1 15 type laid out fiat; v

Fig. 2 is a view of one of he collar top withja piece ofitape stitched thereto; and

Fig. 3 is a section of thecollartop taken on the line 3 -3 of Figure 1.

Referring to the drawing, ll indicates the col- I lartop generally, and l2 the-collar band. The

collar may be either of the attached or the detached type, and may be made of one or more fabric'plies.-

The collar top as shown is composed of'three a view of a collar ofthe fold-over end of thebottom ply plies, namely,"a bottom ply l3 and a top ply l4,

of suitable material, and an inner ply I5 of lining material. 'Ihe three plies are stitched to-' gether, by stitches ;l6, and thenturned in the us'ualmanner to form inturned edges, and further secured by stitches I! along said edges. The plies may ,be adhesively united in any known manner. I

' |8 ;is a ,lpieceof tape of about three-sixteenths age in thedirection of its length than the normalfltransverse shrinkage -of the fabric plies in the completed collar. A pieceof such tape may be secured at or near each of the two end edges of the collar top.

A convenient way of manufacturing the col lar is to stitch the tape l8 to one surface of the bottom ply I3, after the ply has been cut to shape and before it hasbeen assembled in the collar, by one or more rows of stitches l9, as seen in Fig. 2. The tapes are preferably positioned parallel to the end edges 20 of said ply and so located that when the three plies l3, I4 and I5 are stitched and turned, the tapes will fall within theseamed end edges A as shown in Figs. 1 and 3.

While I prefer to apply the tapes l8 in the positiondescribed, it will be understood that the tapes may be in relative positions other than shown. For instanceQthe tapes may lie between the inturned edges of the/top ply." and the bottom ply l3, and in that event, thetapes maybe sewn eitherv tothe top ply M or the bottom ply l3; or I may position the tape so that it appears on the external surface of the bottom ply' l3 along the-end edge of the collar. Furthermore,

it is not necessary that the tapes shalllie in the seamed end edges as they may lie in the seamed longitudinal edge 3 or elsewhere in the neighbor- 25 inch .width having asubstantially greater shrinke hood of the points, or tapes may be usedboth in the end edges and the longitudinal edge. It is essential that the tapes be so positioned that their lengthwise shrinkage will tend to curl the points inwardly.

I have found that when the plies of the collar are made of preshrunk fabrics, the use of tape strips having a lengthwise shrinkage of four .to five per cent gives good results.

It will be understood that'the shrinkage characteristics of the materials here mentioned are their shrinkage characteristics in the dry state as used by the manufacturer in fabricating the collars. The desired differential shrinkage may conveniently be obtained by using preshrunk fabrics for the collar top and by using a tape which has been finished to give the desired shrinkage characteristics, for example, by "stretching the tape when it is being finished. The effect of the differential shrinkage is obtained after the collar has-been manufactured by the simple expedient of wetting it with water. Eventhe insensible perspiration of the body may serve to bring out the differential shrinkage characteristics sufliciently to cause the desired inward curling tendency of the points.

. The differential shrinkage between the fabric plies on the one hand and the tapes *on the other results in the application of a force that tends to curl thepoints inwardlyand thus counteracts their normal tendency to curl outwardly in wear.

Thetendency of the tapes to curl the points inwardly will endure throughrepeated'washings of thecollar and will be enhanced ifthe'points are stretched after each washing and before they are ironed.

In using the term points in the claims, it is to be understood that they need not necessarily be sharp points but that the points or ends of the collar top maybe rounded or otherwise shaped.

What 'I claim is: l

1. In a collar, a collar top comprising a lining ply and face plies adhesively united, a'strip of fabric secured to each end of the collar top below the lining ply, said *fabric strips extending substantially transversely to the length of the collar andhaving a substantially greater shrinkage in that direction than the corresponding shrinkage of the plies.

2. In a collar, a collar top comprising a plu-' rality of plies adhesively united, a strip of fabric A will biasthepoints inwardly.

reach end of the collar, said fabric strips having asubstantially greatershrinkage transversely of the collar than the shrinkage of the plies in the .same direction.

4.1m a collar, a collar top comprising a plurality'of plies adhesively united and having inturned edges, a strip of fabric secured to the bottom ply within the inturned end edge at each end of the collar, said fabric strips having a substantially greater shrinkage transversely of the collar than the shrinkage of the plies in the same 1 direction.

'5. In a collar of the character described, a fabric collar top having points, fabric strips secured to the collar cooperating with the collar top near the points thereof, said strips having greater effective shrinkage in their longitudinal direction than the fabric 'of the said collar top whereby differential shrinkage between the fabric of the collar top and the fabric strips will bias the points inwardly.

6. In a collar of the character described, a fabric collar top having points, fabric strips secured to the collar cooperating with the collar topnear the-points "thereof and arranged transversely of. the collar, said strips having greater Leifective shrinkage .in their longitudinal direction than thefabric of the said collar top whereby differential shrinkage between the fabric of the collar top and the fabric strips will bias the points inwardly.

7. In a collar of the character described, a multi-ply collar top having inturned edges and points, fabric strips having greater shrinkage in a given direction than the corresponding shrinkage of the plies in the same direction, said strips being. secured within the inturned edges of the collar top near the points thereof whereby differential shrinkage between the strips and plies LUDWIG BIHALY.