US2182042A - Shoe and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 5, 1939. A. e. VTIMSON Q 2l82Q042 SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Original Filed Jan. 22, 1935 2 Sheets-$hieet 1 Figrl 3 A. e. TIMS ON 2,182,042

SHOE AND METHOD OF MQKING THE SAME Originai Filed Jan. 22, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Tlg." 8

Patented pa. 5, 1939 UNITED STATES SHOE AND METHODOF MAKmG THE SALE Arthur .G. Timson, Nahant, m, assignorto .Ilnitcd Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough offFle nington, N. 1., a corporation of New Jersey 1 Application January 22, 1935, Serlal'No. 2,942 I Renewed April 29, 1939 24 Claim.

This invention relates to shoes and to the manufacture thereof and illustrated herein with reference to.shoes having complemental insole and outsole'members. r 1

. In the manufacture of shoes of the type referred to the insole is cut to the desired peripheral contour and is skeletonized, that is, a hole or opening is formed in the center of the forepart of the insole surrounded by a marginal portion commonly called a rand. The outsole is provided at its forepart with a relatively thick central portion or projection which fits the opening in the insole and v the marginal portion of the outsole is complemental to the rand so that when the two sole members are superposed one on the other, as in a shoethe efiect of a single sole is produced, thereby rendering the shoe lighter andmore flexible than the ordinary double-soled construction and more comfortable for the foot. In making this type of shoe, however, it has been customary to reduce the marginal portion of the outsole in order to provide sufiicient space for the thickness of the upper materials which are to be secured in overlasted relation tothe rand prior l 26 to the attachment of the outsole. It will be apparent that such procedure necessarily weakens the material of the outsole especially when the upper materials are relatively thick as in multiply uppers having substantial portions of their 30 linings made of leather. Y

Objects of the present invention. are to provide an improved method of making single-soled shoes of the type referred to in the practice of which the difficulties referred to above are eliminated, and to provide also an improved shoe con struction. a I

To the accomplishment of these objects the invention in one of its aspects providesa novel method of preventing the formation of a depres- 40 sion or ridges inthe shoe bottom by tapering or beveling the'rand portion at the forepart of the insole inwardly of its edges and introducing-a layer or filler piece of relatively soft pliable material such, for example, as felt, in the space between the overlasted margins of theupper, this layer being'substantially equal in thickness to .the upper materials and being preferably skived or reduced at its margin to overlap the rand and in some, instances the inner portion of the overlasted margins of the upper so as toform there-'- in accordance with another aspect of the invention, be secured to the rand before the insole is assembled with an upper on a last in which case the inner margins of the upper may if necessary overlap the skived margin of the filler piece. When the complemental outsole is placed. on the shoe bottom it will fill the depression or space caused by the opening in the insole and the tapered rand portion so that a sole portion is produced of substantially uniform thickness throughout. As illustrated herein, the pliable layer or filler piece, which overlies the tapered rand and, if applied after the lasting operation, overlies also the inner marginal portion of the upper, may be secured to the rand or to the rand and upper, for

example, by cement, thereby preventing its displacement during the wear of the shoe.

In another aspect the invention provides an improved shoe construction comprising complemental insole and outsole members having tapered or beveled margins at their foreparts which surround respectively a hole or opening in the insole and a thick portion or projection complemental to said opening in the outsole, said members having located between them a relatively soft pliable layer of filler material of substantially the same thickness as the upper materials and which covers the hole in the insole and overlaps the tapered rand and may overlap both the rand and the inner marginal portion of the upper so that in either case no-depression is formed in the shoe bottom by the overlasted margins of theupper. The complemental outsole fits the shoe bottom perfectly and produces a single-soled shoe having a forepart the bottom portion of which is substantially uniform in thickness. The insole may,

if desired, be reinforced at its shank and heel portions by a shank piece of leather, fiber or other suitable material, this member being applied in'one case to the inner or foot engaging surface of the insole and in another to the outer surface thereof. Such a shoe if made on a last having a relatively flat bottom will have a corresole while if the shoe is made on a last having a transverselyconvex bottom the bottom of the outsole will be transversely convexan amount corresponding to the transverse curvature of the last bottom. In either case there will be no necessity of weakening the margin of the outsole by reducing its thickness to provide space for the overlasted portions of the upper materials. The

finished shoe will not'only be stronger and more a durable than if the margins of its sole portion had been reduced, but it will be fully as flexible at the forepart as any other shoe .of this type I operation.

while providing in addition a soft cushion for en'- gaging the foot which increases the comfort of the wearer and provides insulation for the foot against heat and cold.

With the above and other objects and features in view the invention will now be described in connection with the accompanying drawings an pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1' is a transverse sectional view of the marginal portion of a sole blank on an enlarged'scale showing the vertical out which forms .the periphery ofan insole and indicating in dash lines the position of the out which severs the insole from the blank to form an insole-outsole combination; Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the complemental insole and outsole members formed from the sole blank shown in Fig. 1, the insole being reinforced at its shank and heel portions with a piece of leather and at its forepart with heavy paper or cardboard;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a lasted shoe incorporating the insole shown in Fig. 2 and illustrating above the shoe the forepart of the outsole and a filler piece which are to be placed thereon;

Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view on an enlarged scale of one side of the forepart of the shoe shown in Fig. 3 after'the filler piece outsole have been attached thereto;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view through the shank portion of the shoe with the outsole attached;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of an insole illustrating a modification oi the invention;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a lasted shoe with the insole of Fig. 6 incorporated therein; and

Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view on an enlarged scale through the forepartof the shoe shown in Fig. 7 after the outsole has been attached.

In practisingthe method of making shoes illustrated herein a sole blank l0, illustrated on an enlarged scale in Fig. 1, is provided adjacent to its margin with a slit or cut I! which is perpendicular to the planes of the inner and outer surfaces of the sole blank and extends approximately one-third of the way through the material thereof, this cut forming the outline of the and insole member which is to be separated from the plication filed in the name of Frederic E. Bertrand, although other methods of forming this cut may obviously be employed. In the application referred to the sole rounding machine is provided with an auxiliary knife located parallel to the sole rounding knife and operating to form the perpendicular cut during the sole rounding The sole blank I0 is now split into inner layer or insole member !4 and an outer layer or outsole it, the insole II, as shown in Fig. ,2, having a forepart' portion provided with a hole or opening I! surrounded by an inwardly tapered rand portion 20. The outsole member Ii has the inner V of its forepart shaped complemental to the forepart of the insole II, the marginal central portion comprising a thicker portion or projection 24 conforming in size and shape to the hole in the insole ll. l

The sole blank l0 may be split to form the insole and outsole members I4 and IS with the aid of a splitting machine of the type disclosed 5 in United States Letters Patent No. 2,036,376, granted April '7, 1936, men application filed in the name of Lewis F. Weber and in which a template slightly larger than the sole blank and provided at its forepart with anopening the wall of which is beveled in two directions is mounted on the blank and is presented toe end foremost to the splitting mechanism of the machine. A pair -of feed rolls are' provided for feeding the work and for forcing the material of the sole into the 15 opening in the template during the splitting op eration so that the knife will make a short cut I substantially parallel to the plane of the blank at the toe end, emerge from the blank on the flesh side, and enter the blank again at the end 20 is reinforced at its shank and heel portions 'by'gu a shank piece 26 similar, for example, to a shank 7 piece utilized in a turn shoe. The illustrated shank piece 26 is preferably of leather and is secured grain side up to the inner or foot engaging surface of the insole so that the grain surface will be nearest the foot in the finished shoe. The shank piece may, of course, be made of materials other than leather such, for example, as fiber or similar materials. The forepart of the insole, comprising the rand portion 20; is reino forced on its inner or foot engaging surface by a sheet of relatively stiff material such as heavy paper, cardboard or the'like, this reinforcement covering the opening I! and the inner margin of the rand portion' ifi and being preferably ce-- mented to said rand. v

The insole M is mounted on a last 30 with the shank piece 26'and the reinforcement 28 engaging the last bottom-,so that the hole or opening it at the forepart of the insole is exposed, 50 as'shown in Fig. 3. A shoe upper 32 is assembled on the last and is pulled overin theusuai manner prior to the lasting operation. The upper 32 may now be lasted and secured in lastedrelation to the insolememberll in any usual 'manner;

The shank portion of the upper may, for. example, be lasted and secured in lasted po: sition as illustrated herein by staples 33 which pass through the upper, doubler and lining and I into the material of the insole without passing m completely therethrough, this operation being preferably performed with the aid of a machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,815,297, granted July 21, 193i, on an application filed in the name of George 5 Goddu. From the ball line forwardly the upper may be lasted and secured in lasted position in any usual manner, for example, the upper and insole may have cement such as a latex'composition cement applied thereto and the upper lasted and temporarily secured in lasted position by metallic-fastenlngs, such as tacks, until the cement sets after which'the tacks or other temporary fastenings may be removed. The heel portion of the shoe may be lasted, for example, by tacks 7 i 84 which are clinched against the metal plate on the heel end of the last. Preferably, and as illustrated herein, a usual steel shank or stiflener 38 is located in the shank portion of the shoe and 5 secured thereto by a tack 38, thereby preparing the shoe for the attachment of the outsole.

Before the outsole is applied to the shoe the overlasted marginal portions of the upper 32 are preferably roughened to put them in suitable V condition for receiving cement by which the outsole, as herein illustrated, is secured to the shoe bottom. The outsole may, of course, be secured to the shoe by means other than cement if desired. For example, the last may be removed from the shoe and ,the outsole attached by through-and-through stitches; The particular method of attaching the outsole is immaterial and the invention is not to be regarded as limited to the method illustrated herein. The roughening operation reduces the thickness of the inner portions of the overlasted margins of the upper without, however, reducing these portions to a thin edge. It will be observed in Fig. 3 that the overlasted portion of the upper 32 does not extend over the entire width of the tapered rand portion 28 but leaves the inner portion of the rand exposed.

, Cement is now applied to the roughened margins of the upper 32 and to the exposed por- 30 tions of the rand 20, the cement on the upper margins, of course, extending rearwardly substantially to the heel'breast line. A soft pliable piece of material 38, preferably felt, and-conforming in outline to the periphery of the fore- 5 part of the insole H but being considerably smaller, is now placed in the opening l8 in the bottom of the shoe and cemented to the exposed portions of the rand and to the inner reduced portions of the margins of the upper. As shown in Figs. 3 and 4, the filler piece .38 is approximately equal in thickness to the combined thicknesses of the upper materials and its margin is reduced at 40 by a cut which extends completely around the margin of the filler piece, the inner edge of this out being indicated by the'dotted line 42 in Fig. 3. As shown in Fig. 4, the reduced .portion 80 of the filler piece 38 is arranged to overlap the reduced inner margins of the upper materials 32 so that no shoulder or ridge will be formed at the inner edges of these margins after 20. In other words, the overlasted margins of the upper and the filler piece 38 together form a continuous layer of substantially uniform thickness over the forepart of the shoe bottom, thereby eliminating the depression which would otherwise be formed in the shoe bottom by reason of the thickness of the overlasted margins of the upper materials. The felt filler piece 38 overlaps sole enters the depression in the shoe bottom 70 formed by the opening l8 covered by the filler piece 38. Since the forepart of the outsole is complemental in shape to the insole it will fit the shoe bottom perfectly and thus fill the depression. Fig. 4 shows 'one side of the shoe in section after the outsole l6 has been attached thereto.

they are secured in lasted relation to the rand insole 88.

It will be noted in this figure that a substantial portion of the outwardly tapered margin of the outsole contacts directly with the overlasted margin of the upper which has been coated with cement. Consequently, when pressure is applied to the marginal portions of the bottom surface of the shoe the outsole will become permanently attached to the margin of the upper and to a portion oithe margin of the felt filler piece 38 adjacent to said margin owing to the cement on m the inner face of the outsole. After the shoe has set for a period of time suflicient to permit the cement to set and thus cause the sole to become permanently attached to the shoe bottom, the last 38 may be removedand the sheet of re- 15 inforcing material 28 pulled out, thereby exposing at the forepart of the shoe .the marginal rand portion 20 surrounding the felt filler piece 38 which will be located in the opening at the central portion of the shoe. The usual sock m lining of thin leather or similar material may now be inserted in the shoe and cemented in place, thereby completing the construction of the shoe except for the attachment of the heel and such finishing operations as may be necesg5 sary which may be performed in the usual or customary manner.

A shoe made in accordance with the method described herein will have a sole or bottom portion of substantially uniform thickness throughso out. It should be explained that by the term bottom portion as used in the specification and claims is meant the entire bottom of the completed shoe, that is, the complemental insole and outsole members reinforced as described, the 35 filler piece, and the marginal portions of the upper materials which overlie the insole and its rand portion. The shoe will be more flexible at the forepart than adouble soled shoe owing to the construction of the insole and outsole mem- 40 bers and the pliable filler piece at the forepart. The marginal portions of the outsole will not have to be additionally reduced to accommodate Figs. 6; 7 and 8 illustrate a modification of 50 the invention in which a filler piece is applied -to the outer face of the rand portion of a skeletonized insole before the insole is incorporated iii a shoe. The insole 44 shown in Fig. 6 55 is produced with an opening 48 in its forepart and a tapered'rand portion 50 in the manner previously described by splitting it from a sole blank, the other layer of the blank forming an outsole complemental in size and shape to the A filler piece 46, preferably offelt and preferably having its ina'rginal portion skivedto reduce its thickness, isplaced over the opening 48 as explained above with its reduced margins overlapping the tapered rand 58. The marginal portion of the filler piece-may be secured to the rand in any suitable manner, for. example, it may, as illustrated herein, be cemented to said rand. l The, shank and heel portions of the insole 48 are reinforced by a shank piece 52 which is preferably composed of relatively stiff material such as fiber or similar material and is secured in any suitable manner to the same side of the insole as the filler piece 88, that is, tothe outer surface 5 ,ing to the stiff sheet 28 of the first part of the method is necessary to hold the rand portion 50 in position during the lasting operation since the filler piece 46 serves as a reinforcing member.

The insole 44 is assembled on a last 54 in the usual manner with a shoe upper 56. The upper is worked over the margins of the insole into lasted position and is secured thereto in any usual or suitable manner. The shank portion of the upper may, for example, be lasted and secured in lasted position by curved staples 58 in the manner described above, and the heel portion lasted by tacks 60 which are clinched against the metal plate on the bottom of the last. The portion of the upper forwardly of the ball line may be worked over the rand portion 50 and secured thereto by a suitable cement, for example, latex composition, cement, although this portion may, if desired, be secured in lasted position by other means such as tacks or staples. The inner portions of the overlasted margins of the upper will overlap the skived portion of .the filler piece 46, as shown in Fig. 8, thereby'cov- -ering the forepart of the insole, that is, the rand 50 and the opening 48, with a continuous layer of material of substantially uniform thickness throughout and preparing the bottom of the shoe for the attachment of the outsole. A usual steel shank or stiffener 59 is placed in proper position at the shank portion of the shoe and secured in place by a tack 6! in the usual manner.

.The overlasted margins of the upper may now be roughened sufiiciently to prepare them for receiving cement and a suitable cement, for example, pyroxylin cement, may be applied to the roughened portions. The complemental outsole which was produced with the insole member 44 from the sole blank and which is indicated in Fig. 4 by the numeral 62, is coated at its margin with cement and laid on the shoe bottom. As shown in Fig. 8, the thick portion or projection '54 at the forepart of the outsole completely fills the depression in the shoe bottom caused by the opening 48 in the insole, and the tapered marginal portions of the outsole, which are complemental to the rand portion 50, fit perfectly against the randcovered by the upper materials and filler piece 46. The outsole is pressed against .the shoe bottom until it becomes permanently attached to the overlasted portions of the upper thereby completing' the construction of theshoe except for the attachment of the heel and the usual finishing operations. The outsole 62 may of course be attached to the shoe bottom by other methods than that described, for example, the last 54 may be removed from the shoe after the outsole has been laid and the latter secured to the shoe bottom by through-and-through stitches. usual sock lining is now inserted in the shoe and secured in place by cement, thereby covering the felt and randat the forepart of the shoe bottom.

, substantially uniform thickness throughout. The

forepart of the shoe will be fully as flexible as any other shoe of this type and, in addition, will provide a cushion for the foot as well as insulation against heat and cold. The shank portion of the shoe will be still? enough to provide the proper support for the foot by reason of the shank piece 52 which, as stated above, is secured to the outer or outsole engaging surface of the insole.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises working a shoe upper into 'and securing it in lasted relation to a skeleton insole having an opening through its forepart surrounded by an inwardly tapered rand and providing a pliable filler piece covering the opening in said forepart, the marginal portion of said filler piece overlying the inner portion of the rand, and thereafter attaching to the shoe an outsole the inner face of which is complemental to the shoe bottom after the upper is. secured in lasted position.

2. That improvementin methods of making shoes which comprises assembling a shoe upper on a last with an insole the forepart of which comprises a rand portion surrounding a central opening, securing the upper in lasted relation to said rand portion, covering said opening with material of substantially the same thickness as the upper, thereby eliminating the depression formed the shoe bottom by the overlasted margins of the upper, and attaching to the shoe an outsole the forepart of which has a projection thereon complemental in size and shape to the opening in the insole, thereby producing a shoe having a sole portion of uniform thickness.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes. which comprises assembling a shoe upper on a last with an insole the forepart of which taching to theshoe an outsole the inner surface of which is complemental to. the shoe bottom after the filler piece has been applied. I

4.That improvement in methods of making 7 shoes which comprises assembling a shoe upper on' a last with an insole the forepart of which comprises an inwardly tapered rand, securing the upper in lasted relation to said rand, placing a filler piece of substantially the same thickness as the upper materials in the space between the edges of the overlasted portions thereof, the margins of said filler piec'e overlapping the inner portions of the tapered rand, thereby filling the depression in the shoe bottom caused by the thickness of the overlasted upper materials, and attaching an outsole the inner face of which is complemental in shape to the shoe bottom after the filler piece has been 'appliedjthereby producing a shoe having a sole portion of uniform thickness.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises assembling ashoe upper on a last with an insole the central portion of the forepart of which has been removed to form an opening surrounded by a tapered rand portion, securing the upper in lasted relation to the outer portion of said rand with cement, locating a filler piece of pliable'material said opening so that aieaoca D shoe upper on a last with an insole the forepart of which comprises a rand portion of greater width than the lasting allowance of the upper,

securing the upper in lasted relation to the rand but leaving the inner margin of said rand exposed, placing in the space between the overlasted margins of the upper a flexible filler piece which is substantially equal in thickness to the materials of the upper, said filler piece overlapping the exposed portion of the rand and filling the depression formed in the shoe bottom by the overlasted upper materials, andattaching to the shoe an outsole the inner surface of the forepart of which is complemental in shape to the corresponding portion of the insole, thereby producing on the shoe abottom portion of uniform thickness.

7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises assembling a shoe upper on a last with an insole the'forepart of which comprises a marginal strip of substantial width, said strip tapering inwardly of the edge of the last, securing the upper in lasted relation to said marginal strip without covering the inner portion of the strip, applying a soft filler piece of substantially the same thickness as the upper materials to the shoe bottom between the inner 1 edges of the overlasted portions of the upper, the

margin of said filler piece being skived and overstantially even thickness throughout, and attach! ing to the shoe bottom an outsole-the inner surface of which is complemental in shape to the shoe bottom covered with said continuous layer,

thereby producing on the shoe a\bottom portion. 0 of uniform thickness without reducing the margins oi' the outsole.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprisesia'ssembling on a last a shoe upper and an insole having a hole cut in 55 its forepart to leave an inwardly tapered marginal rand, said forepart being reinforced on its innerside with a sheet of relatively still. material covering the hole and the inner margin of the rand, securing the upper in lasted relation. to the rand go without covering its inner margin, roughening the overlasted portions of the upper and applying cement thereto and to the exposed margin of the rand, placinga' layer of relatively soft material equal in thickness to the upper over the g5 hole in the insole, the margin of said layer being reduced in thickness, cementing said layer to' the exposed margin of the rand and to the inner marginof the upper, thereby eliminating the shoulders at the inner edges oi! the overlasted 7o margins of the upper and providing a layer of uniform thickness over the forepart of the insole, and attaching to the shoe bottom an outsole the inner face of whichis complemental in shape to the outer face of the insole, so that the outsole will ,7. fit against the shoe bottom without forming either a bulge or a depression at the forepart of the sole.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last a.

shoe upper. and an insole the forepart of whichis provided with a central opening surrounded by an inwardly tapered marginal rand integral with the insole, said forepart being reinforced on its inner face with stiff paper attached to the inner portion of the rand and covering said opening, securing the upper in lasted relation to the rand by cement while leaving the inner margin of the rand exposed, roughening the overlasted margin of the upper to reduce the thickness of its inner portion and to prepare said margin for receivingcement, applying cement to the roughened upper and exposed margin 'of the rand, placing a felt filler piece having a skived margin over the opening in the insole and cementing its margin to the rand and inner margin of the upper, said filler piece being substantially the same thickness as the upper inwardly of its skived portion and forming with said upper a continuous layer of uniform thickness over the forepart of the shoe, attaching an outsole complemental in shape to theinsole to the shoe thereby producing a bottom portion of uniform thickness at the forepart of the shoe, and thereafter delasting the shoe and removing the reinforcing sheet from the ining an opening in its forepart surrounded by an inwardly tapered marginal rand and an outsole which is complemental in shape to said insole, assembling the insole with a shoe upper on a last, securing the upper in lasted relation to the outer portion of said rand while leaving the inner portion of the rand exposed, inserting in said opening a filler piece of felt equal in thickness to the upper'but having reduced margins so'that said margins will overlie the rand and the inner portion of the overlasted upper without forming a ridge, thereby covering the forepart of the shoe bottom with a continuous layer of material. of substantially the same thickness throughout, and attaching the complemental outsole to the shoe bottom, said outsole conforming accurately to the shape of the shoe bottom after the filler piece has been applied and thus producing on an insole having a central opening'in its forepart surrounded by an inwardly tapered marginal rand and an outsole having a thick portion at its forepart complemental in shape to the opening in the insole and a'marginal portion complemental to said rand, assembling the insole with a shoe upper on a last, securing the upper in lasted relation to said" rand while leaving the innerportion of the rand exposed, inserting a soft pliable filler piece of substantially the same thickness as the upper materials in the opening in said insole, the margins ofsaid filler piece being skived to overlap the exposed portion of the rand and the inner portion of the overlasted margin of the upper without forming a ridge, thereby providing a covering of even thickness over the forepart of the insole,; and attaching the outsole to the shoe bottormso that its forepart fills the depression" above the filler and rand and produces a .sole portion which is relatively flexible and of forepart of an insole thereby leaving only :1 marginal rand, producing an outsole complemental in shape to said insole, reinforcing the forepart of the insole with a relatively stiff layer of material which covers the opening and a portion of the rand, securing a shank piece to theshank and heel portions of the insole, assembling the insole with a shoe upper on a last, .securing the upper in lasted relation to the rear portion of the insole and to the rand at its forepart, covering the opening in the insole with a soft pliable filler piece substantially equal in thickness to the upper materials, said filler-piece overlappin the rand and forming with the upper a layer of uniform thickness over the forepart of the insole, and attaching the outsole to the shoe bottom, thereby filling the depression caused by the opening in the insole and producing a bottom portion of uni-' form thickness at the forepart of the shoe.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises forming an opening in the forepart of an insole thereby leaving a marginal rand, producing an outsole complemental in shape to said insole, reinforcing the inner side of the forepart of the insole with a relatively stifi layer of material which covers said opening and a portion of the rand, reinforcing the shank and heel portions of the insole'with a leather shank piece secured grain side up to the inner face of the insole, assembling the insole with a shoe upper on a last so that the shank piece and forepart reinforcing member engage the last bottom,

securing the upper in'lasted relation to the rear portion of the insole and to the marginal rand,

covering the opening in the insole with a soft pliable filler-piece equal in thickness to the upper materials, said filler piece overlapping the rand and a portion of the upper and forming a layer of uniform thickness over the forepart of the shoe bottom, and attaching the complemental outsole to the shoe bottom, thereby filling the depression caused by the opening in the insole and producing a bottom portion of uniform thickness at the forepart of the shoe, the grain surface of the shank piece being in position to engage the foot in the finished shoe.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises forming an insole having an opening in its forepart surrounded by a rand portion, producing an outsole complemental in shape to said insole, covering the opening in the forepart of the insole with a layer of flexible material of substantially the same thickness as'the upper materials which are to be used in the shoe, said layer overlapping a portion of the rand, assembling the insole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the margins of the upper in overlasted relation to the insole including the rand, and attaching. the complemental outsole to the shoe bottom thereby producing a bottom portion at said filler piece being substantially equal in thickness to the upper materials which are to be pression in the sh 'tral opening in used in the shoe, assemblingthe insole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the margins of the upper in lasted relation to the rand and to, the rear portion of the insole, said margins forming with the filler piece a covering of substantially shoe bottom thereby producing onthe shoe a sole portion of-uniform thickness.

16. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises splitting a sole blank to form an insole having a hole in its forepart surrolmded by an inwardly tapered rand and an outsole complemental in shape to said insole. cementing a feltfiller piece having a sklved margin to the inner portion of the tapered rand thereby covering the hole in the insole, said filler piece being substantially as thick as the upper materials which are to be used in the shoe inwardly of its skived margin, assembling the insole with an upper on a last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the insole and its rand, said upper overlapping the skived portion of the filler piece and forming therewith a continuous layer of even thicmess over the forepart of the shoe bottom, thereby eliminating the depression formed by the thickness of the overlasted upper materials, and cement attaching the complemental outsole to the shoe bottom, thereby filling the depression formed therein by the hole in the insole and pro.-

ducing a bottom portion of uniform thickness at the forepart of the shoe.

17. That improvement in methods of making I of the insole, reinforcing the outer surface 'of' said forepart with a flexible layer which covers the central opening and the inner portion of the rand, said layer being substantially equal in thickness to the upper materials which are to be used in the shoe, reinforcing the shank and heel portions of the insole with a shank piece attached to said outer surface, assembling the insole with a shoe upper on a last and securing the upper in overlasted relation to the insole and its reinforced rand, said upper engaging the outer margin of the reinforcing flexible layer and forming therewith a covering of uniform thick ness over the forepart of the insole, and at taching to the shoe bottom an outsole the inner face of which is complemental in shape to the outer face of the insole, thereby filling thede- .bottom caused by the cene insole and producing a sole portion of uniform thickness at the forepart of the shoe.

18. Ashoe comprising an insole having an opening in'its forepart surrounded by a rand portion, an upper securedin overlasted relation to the rand, a pliable member covering said opening and overlapping the rand, said member being depression, and an outsole attached to the shoe bottom, the inner face of said outsole being comsubstantially equal in thickness to the upper so plemental in shape to the insole and filling the opening in its forepart surrounded by an in- .wardly tapered rand, an upper secured to said rand, apliable layer covering said opening and u overlapping the rand and the inner margin of the upper, said pliabledayer being substantially equal in thickness to the upper and being skived where it overlaps the upper to prevent any increase in thickness, thereby forming a covering of uniform thickness over the forepart of the insole, and an outsole attached to the exposed portion of the upper lying outside the edge of said pliable layer, said outsole beingcomplemental in shape to the outer face of the insole and forming with said insole and the materials covering it a sole portion of uniform thickness at the forepart of the shoe.

20. A shoe comprising an insole having an opening in its forepart enclosed byan inwardly vtapered marginal rand which is integral with the insole, an upper having its margin secured to said rand, a felt filler piece of the same thickness as the upper materials covering said opening and overlapping the rand and the inner portion of the upper margin, said filler piece-being secured to said rand and upper and being tapered at its marginal portion so that no ridge will be formed where it overlaps the uppe thereby filling the space between the opposite edges of the upper and covering the insole with a continuous layer of uniform thickness, and an outsole -se-' cured to the overlasted margin of the upper, the outer surface of said outsole being substantially flat widthwise and the inner surface being complemental in shape to the outer face of the insole so that said inner surface fits the shoe bottom and thus maintains the flat condition of the outer face of the outsole after the latter is attached to'the shoe.

21. Ashoe comprising an insole having a hole .in its forepart surrounded by a marginal rand,

an outsole having a projection on its forepart complemental in size and shape to said hole, an upper the margins of which are secured in lasted relation to said rand, and a'pliable filler piece of substantially the 'same' thickness as the upper covering the hole in the insole and having its margins reduced and secured in overlapping relation to the rand and the innermargin of the overlasted upper, the outsole of said shoe being attached to the outer margin of the upperand forming with said rand, upper and' filler piece a sole portion of uniform thickness on the bottom of the shoe.

22. A shoe comprising an insole having an openingin its forepart surrounded by a marginal rand, said insole being reinforced'at its shank and heel portions with a relatively stifl shank piece, an upper secured'in overlasted relation to the shank and heel portions of the insole and to the rand at its forepart, a soft pliable filler piece of substantially the same thickness as the upper covering the opening in the insole and overlapping the rand, said filler piece forming with the reinforced on the inner side of its shank and heel portions with a leather shank piece having its grain side exposed, -an upper secured in overlastedrelation tothe rear portion ofthe insole and to the rand at its forepart, a felt filler piece 0 of substantially the same thickness as the upper covering the opening in the insole and overlapping the tapered rand and inner margin of the upper, said filler piece forming with the upper a continuous covering'of uniform thickness over the forepart of the insole, and an outsole attached to the shoe bottom and having its inner face complemental in shape to the insole so that it fills the depression caused by the opening in said insole and thus produces a bottom portion of uniform thickness at the forepart of the shoe, the grain surface of the shank piece at the shank and heel portions of the shoe bottom being exposed to engage the foot. 24.-A method of making shoes which comprises forming an outsole with a raised land at its central forepart portion and an insole with a corresponding, aperture at its central forepart portion, forming a filler piece of substantially the thickness of an upper, feathering the edges of said piece, attaching it across said aperture, locating said insole and flller piece on a flat bottom last with said flller piece facing outwardly, lasting an upper to said insole with the inner edge of its lasting allowance overlapping the margins of.

said filler piece, and cement afllxing said outsole to said lasted upper under pressure with its landed portion opposite to said aperture.

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