US2171236A - Process of knitting - Google Patents

Process of knitting Download PDF

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US2171236A
US2171236A US201473A US20147338A US2171236A US 2171236 A US2171236 A US 2171236A US 201473 A US201473 A US 201473A US 20147338 A US20147338 A US 20147338A US 2171236 A US2171236 A US 2171236A
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Prior art keywords
needles
thread
fabric
groups
plating
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US201473A
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Getaz James Louis
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/26Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B15/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/66Devices for determining or controlling patterns ; Programme-control arrangements
    • D04B15/68Devices for determining or controlling patterns ; Programme-control arrangements characterised by the knitting instruments used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B9/00Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/26Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics
    • D04B9/28Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics with colour patterns
    • D04B9/34Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics with colour patterns by plating
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns

Definitions

  • My invention consists in the novel features the same as is necessary for the purpose of explaining them, and the said invention is fully disclosed in the following description and claims.
  • My present invention consists in a process of m making an ornamented plain kunit, preferably circular seamless fabric, having an elastic thread incorporated under tension in certain courses (or in all of the courses) and secured to the fabric at separated wales in each course in which the is elastic thread is knitted, without being drawn in a loop or loops at any point in the fabric, so that the elastic thread, preferably of rubber or the well known Lasten, lies in substantially undistortedl lines around the circular fabric, and
  • the needles are then divided into separate groups, and a backing or body thread is fed to the hooks of all the needles of all the groups, while .a plating threadis fed alternately into the hooks of one group of needles and floated o in rear of other groups of needles, the plating thread being fed preferably under slightly greater tension than the bodyd thread so as to appear on the face of the fabric when fed to the hooks of the needles, while the body thread will appear I 45 on the face of the fabric ywhere the plating thread is floated. Either the bodythread or'the plating thread, or both, may be thrown out of action and substituted by another thread according to the number of colorsV to be produced in the fabric.
  • the selection of the needles which receive the elastic thread in the two ways mentioned, the further selection of the needles into desired and preferably alternating groups, and the manipulation of the thread 55 guides for introducing and withdrawing the body thread, or the plating thread, or both, and substituting a different thread will all be controlled by the usual pattern mechanism with which the' knitting machine is or may be provided, the par-e ticular patterns produced by the various threads 5 which are knitted to form' the fabric itself, to wit, the body thread or threads, and thev plating thread or threads, will ordinarily be of contrastlng colors, and widely varied patterns of such colors as are selected for the purpose may be produced under the control of the pattern mechanism.
  • the elastic thread will be continuously incorporated under tension in the selected courses and firmly locked 1g in the selected ⁇ wales of said courses in the inanner previously described, preferably in 'the corresponding wales of each of said courses.
  • the tension of the elastic thread will preferably be vsuch that the wales formed by the needles which receive the elastic thread beneath the latches thereof, will be forced to and form the front face of the fabric, while the wales formed by the intermediate needles will be forced to and form. the inner face of the fabric, which Willbe drawn together by the tension of the elastic thread into vertical rib-like ridges, closely resembling ribknit fabric.
  • the plain knit fabric Will have imparted to it formy fitting characteristics similar to those of rib knitting, while at ⁇ the same time the floated portions of the elastic thread on the inner face of the Yfabric will form a series of horizontally disposed beads to engage the skin of the wearer and supply a self-supporting characteristic to the circular fabric.
  • This fabric finds its greatest use in the top portion of mens, womens and children's half hose and anklets, and the fabric per se without ,m ⁇
  • Fig. 2 is a vertical sectional view of a portion of the knitting cylinder on the line 2--2 of Fig. 1, showing a needle with its co-acting needle jack, selecting jack, and cooperating cams, the needle being in the lowered position.
  • Fig.- 3 is a similar view on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1.
  • Fig. 4 is a View similar to Fig. 2on the line 4 -4 of Fig. 1, and showing a series of secondary selector cam levers, or reader cam levers, as they are sometimes termed.
  • Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 2, on the line 5--5 of Fig. 1.
  • Fig. 6 represents a perspective view of a series of needles arranged in a straight line for purposes of illustration, and illustrating the manner of feeding the elastic thread thereto.
  • Fig. 7 is a similar viewI showing the manner in which the body or backing thread is fed to hooks of all of the needles, while the plating thread is fed to the hooks of certain groups of needles and floated in rear of other groups of needles.
  • Fig. 8 is a view similar to Figs. 6 and 7, showing loops drawn by both groups of needles, while the elastic thread passes in a straight line through the fabric and is locked in selected wales without forming any loops in the elastic thread.
  • Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic view of the inner face of my improved ornamented fabric in distended position, showing the arrangement of stitches to form a particular pattern.
  • Fig. 10 is a similar view illustrating the exterior face of the fabric.
  • Fig. l1 is a partial view similar to Fig. 9, showing the inner face of the fabric with the tension of the fabric partially released and the float portions of the plating threads relaxed.
  • Fig. 12 represents the upper portion of a sock or anklet, provided with a top composed of my improved ornamented fabric, showing a particular design.
  • Fig. 13 shows a sock or anklet top formed of my improved ornamented fabric, and provided with a'dilerent design.
  • Fig. 14 shows a similar top for sock or anklet illustrating another design.
  • the needle cylinder inl2,171,236 dicated at I is provided with a circular series of needles, alternate needles being indicated at 2, and being the needles which receive the elastic thread below the latches thereof, the intervening needles of the series being indicated at 2a, each needle being provided with the usual knitting butt or nib 3 for engaging the usual knitting cams, shown at 4, 5 and 6.
  • the cam 4 is operated only in connection with reciprocating work, and is shown in dotted lines in Fig. l.
  • each needle is a needle jack I provided with a cam engaging butt or nib 8, below which' is a selecting jack 9 having portions of its inner edge disposed angularly to other portions so as to permit it to rock against the action of an encircling spring 25, engaging said selecting' jacks adjacent to their upper ends.
  • Each selecting jack 9 is provided adjacent to its lower end with a plurality of selecting butts indicated at Ila, IIb, IIc, etc., preferably twenty-five in number below which is an operating butt I2 for normally engaginga selector cam indicated at I 3, when the selecting jack is in the position in which it is normally held by the spring 25.
  • This selecting cam I3 is intended to elevate the alternate needles 2 which are to receive the elastic thread e (from a suitable thread guide e) below the latches thereof. In order that only the selected needles 2, which are. in this instance alternate needles, shall be raised by the selecting cam I3,
  • I provide means for knocking down the selecting jacks 9 for the intervening needles 2a, that is to' say, the lower ends of the jacks for the intervening needles 2a are forced inward so as to carry their butts I2 out of engagement with the cam I3,
  • auxiliary selector cam I6 for engaging one of the butts or nibs Il of the jacks for the needles 2a, the corresponding butts or nibs of the needles 2 being broken off so that the jacks for the needles 2 will not be ⁇ knocked down.
  • all of the needles 2 will be elevated by thc selecting cam I3 to such a height that they will receive the elastic thread e below the latches thereof..
  • the thread guide e" for the elastic thread is preferably arranged' to swing horizontally into and out of operative position, so
  • the elastic thread can be fed in every course of knitting, or in selected courses, under the control of suitable pattern mechanism, and the elastic thread will be fed under predetermined tension, all as fully disclosed in my former application for Letters Patent of the United States Serial Number 53,824, filed' December 10, 1935.
  • the selecting jacks 9 of the intervening needles 2a which are knocked down by the selector cam I 3, pass alongside ofand within the selecting cam I3, and are not raised.
  • the selecting jacks 9 for the needles 2 will be returned to normal position by a cam I8 which engages the bu. ls 8 of the needle jacks 'I.
  • a needle 2 is shown elevated high enough to receive the elastic thread by a shedding cam II to the same height as the alternate needles 2, as shown in Fig. 1.
  • the Y intervening needles 2a rise, they pass in front of and behind adjacent needles, that is to say, in front of the alternate needles 2 below the latches thereof, and in rear of the intervening needles 2a.
  • I may include one or more needles, although as a matter of fact each of the alternating groups will ordinarily contain a plurality of needles in order to produce an effective part of the pattern. ⁇ In this instance, and for purposes of explanation, I have shown the needles divided into alternate groups of three needles each. ⁇ This secondary selection can be readily effected by a Well known form of selecting means with which the Scott and Williams spiral machine referred to is provided.
  • This selecting mechanism comprises a series of horizontally 'disposed pivoted selecting cam levers, or reader cam levers as they are sometimes termed, a, 2Gb, 20c, etc., as'shown in Fig.
  • one or more of thelreader cam levers' will be operated at the proper times to knock down certain of the selecting jacks, so as to prevent ⁇ their operating butts I2 from engaging a group selecting cam I3a, the apex of which, indicated at I 3b, is higher than the apex of the selecting cam I3, as shown in Fig. 1.
  • All of the needles will, therefore, ⁇ be at the saine height (indicated by dotted line e), and as the jacks of the selected needle groups :c approach the apex I3b of the cam l3ntl carrying with theln the needle jacks 'I, the needle jacks 1 will engage the needles of the groups a: and raise them to a higher level, indicated by the dotted line z', so as to enable the needles of groups to receive in their hooks a colors.
  • Fig. 6 I have illustrated in a straightline for convenience of description, a series of consecutive needles 2 and 2a, after the elastic thread e has been fed thereto, and it will be noted that the elastic thread is interlaced with the needles as previously described, and passes under the latches of the alternating needles 2 and behind the intervening needles 2a.
  • Fig. 7 I have illustrated, ina similar manner, the same needles after they have been selected into groups :l: and y, respectively, and have passed the feeding pointsfor the face or plating thread ,f and the body thread b. It will be noted tol that the needles of the groups receive both the 'l plating thread ,f and the body thread b within their hooks, while the lneedles in groups y receive only the body thread b, while the plating thread ,f is floated behind these needles, as indicated at f4, in Fig. 7.
  • Fig. 8 Il have illustrated the Vsame needles in 4 their lowered positions after passing the knitting Wave, and drawing their loops. It will be seen l in this figure, that the needles of groups :c will draw composite loops or stitches containing both the body thread b and plating thread f, ity being understood that the plating or face thread ,f will be fed under slightly greater tension than the body thread, so as to cause it to appear onthe face of the fabric. 'I'he needles of the groups y will drawV single loops of the body thread b only,
  • ⁇ drawn are single loops or composite loops at the wales formed by the needles 2a.
  • a sock or anklet L provided'with a top T of my improved plain knit rubber incorporated fabric containing a design selected by me for purposes of illustration, and capablel of being produced by the arrangement of selected needles operating in the manner which I have just described' it being understood that this is merely for purposes of explanation and that any desired pattern can be carried out in any desired colors in the manner previously described.
  • t represents the usual selvage or welt, which is preferably formed of a plurality of courses of stitches containing both the body thread as b, and a plating thread, as f, knit continuously, and preferably containing in each course, or in certain selected courses, the elastic thread e, incorporated as previously described, to form continuous plating. It is only necessary to rotate the trick wheel so that the selecting cam lever 20a will be returned to normal position and the selecting jacks 9 for all of the needles will then be carried up by the group selecting cam I3a to the level indicated by the dotted line z', when all of the needles will take both the plating thread and the body thread.
  • the trick wheel is then rotated to throw the selecting cam lever 20a into-the position shown in Fig. 4, when a series of courses indicated at t' in Fig. 12, may be knit in the manner previously described.
  • This will result in the pattern herein shown in Fig. 12, in a transverse row of rectangular figures t6 and t1, of which t8 'represents stitches produced by the needle groups .1: containing both the body thread and plating thread in plated relation with the plating thread on the face of the fabric, while the rectangles t1 repre sent stitches of the body thread only, produced by the needle groups y.
  • t2 represents aseries of courses of stitches containing a body thread and plating thread throughout, in plated relation, again accomplished by shifting the trick wheel so that none of the needles will be knocked down, and all will be raised by the cam I3a.
  • t3 represents a series of courses of stitches containing alternating rectangles t6, t1, in which the pattern is varied by causing the plated stitches in the rectangles t6 containing both the body and plating threads'to be knit by the groups y of the needles, while the intervening groups of stitches 'forming the blocks t1 are knit by the groups :a
  • t4 represents a series of courses of continuous plating.
  • t5 represents a series of courses corresponding exactly to the courses t', and in this instance a series of courses, indicated at tl, and
  • Fig. 9 AI have shown diagrammatically a portion of the inner face of my improved fabric y showing the alternating groups of plain stitches and plated stitches in several courses, and the position of the elastic threads here shown in every other course:
  • Fig. 10 is a similar view showing the outer face considerable tension.
  • Fig. 11 is a partial view of the inside of the fabric with the tension somewhat relaxed, show ing the slack in the oats f4 of the plating thread, the elastic threads being still in a state of tension which in the actual fabric holds the oppositely facing alternating wales close together, thus producing a smooth faced fabric comprising the alternate wales which project to the outer face, the intermediate wales being substantially concealed when the fabric is not distended.
  • the units of the pattern will be slightly extended transversely of lthe top. and will ordinarily show to even better advantage than they do in the undistended condition of the fabric.
  • a method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form fitting and self-supporting fabric which consists in producing continu- -ous coursesl of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, introducing in certain courses an elastic threadin front of spaced selected needles, and in rear of intervening needles, and in certain courses, feeding one of said inelastic body threads in front of separated selected groups of needles, and the second inelastic body thread in rear of said selected groups and feeding both inelastic body threads to the intervening groups of needles, in plated relation with said second thread on the outer face of the fabric, and applying sufficient tension to said elastic thread to draw the fabric together when disengaged from the needles to reduce its diameter and drawwales thereof together and bring the floated portions of said second inelastic body thread into slackened condition.
  • a method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form-fitting Vand self-supporting fabric which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, and in. certain courses effecting a needle separation to bring spaced selected needles at a higher levelthan non-selected needles, and feeding an elastic thread under tension in front of said selected needles and in rear of the non-selected needles, and in certain courses effecting an independent needle separation to bring spaced groups of needles at a higher level than intervening groups and feeding one of said inelastic body threads to the hooks of the said selected groups of needles and the second inelastic body thread in rear thereof, and feeding both of said inelastic body threads to all the needles of the intervening groups in plated relation, with the said second thread on the outside of the fabric, and applying sufficient tension to the elastic thread to draw the fabric together when disengaged from tlie needles, and submerge certain wales thereof, andform vertical rib-like ridges in the fabric.
  • a method of making tubular plain knit seamy less ornamented form-fitting' Vand self-support- Y ing fabric which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, and in certain courses effecting a needle separation to bring spaced selected needles at a higher level than non-selected needles,- and feeding an elastic thread under tension in front of said vselected needles and in rear of thel non-selectedneedles, bringing the needles to the same level and thereafter in certain courses effecting an independent needle separation to bring spaced selected groups of needles at a different level to that of intermediate groups of needles, feeding one of said inelastic threads to said spaced groups only, and floating the second inelastic body thread in rear thereof, and feeding both inelastic body threads to said intermediate groups in plated relation with the said second thread on the outer face of the fabric, and applying sumcient tension to the elastic thread to draw the fabric together, to bring certain wales thereof intocontact, and submerge intervening wales
  • a method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form-tting and self-supporting fabric which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, and in certain courses interlacing an elastic thread in front ofv and below the latches of alternate needles and in rear of intervening needles and in certain groups eifecting a needle separation to bring spaced selected groups of needles at a higher level than intervening groups, and feeding one of said inelastic body threads to the hooks of said selected groups of needles and the second inelastic body thread in rear of said selected groups, and feeding both inelastic body threads to the hooks of the needles of the intervening groups in plated relation with the said second thread on the outer'face of the fabric, and applying suiiicient tension to said elastic thread to draw the alternate wales togetherand submerge the intervening wales of the fabric when released from the needles, and bring the floated portions of said second inelastic body thread into slackhigher level than intervening
  • a method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form-fitting and self-supporting fabric which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrastingJinelasticbody threads, and in certain courses raising alternate needles, feeding an elastic thread thereto below the latches thereof, bringing the needlesto a common level to interlace said elastic thread therewith, effecting a second and independent needle separation, ⁇
  • a method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form-fitting and self-supporting fabric by the aid of a circular knitting machine and a single circular series of needles which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, and in certain courses raising alv ternate needles to the shedding point, and feeding thereto an elastic thread under tension below the latches thereof in advance of the throat, raising the intervening needles to the shedding point to interlace the elastic thread therewith, in certain courses effecting a second needle selection by raising the needles of 'selected alternating groups above the shedding point and ieeding to the hooks thereof one of said inelastic body threads, and iloating it in rear of.
  • the needles ofintervening groups feeding tlie other inelastic body thread to all of the needles of the circular series with the said thread havingoatedportions on the inside of the fabric, and in certain courses feeding both inelastic body threads to the hooks of all the needles throughout the entire course in plated relation, and applying sufiicient tension to the 'elastic thread to draw alternate Wales of the fabric together and submerge intervening wales, and bring the iioated portions of the body thread into slackened condition.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Description

Aug. 29, 1939. l J. L. GETAz I PROCESS OF KNITTING 4 sheets-smeet 1 Original Filed April 17. 1937 Aug. 29, w39.
J.' L. GETAz PROCESS OF KNITTIING v 4 ,sheets-sheet v2 Original Filed April l17. 1937 l INVENTQR ATTORNEY Y Aug. 29, 1939. J. L. GETAz 4 2,171,236
PROCESS `O KNITTING original Filed April 17, 1937 sheets-Sheet@ vN`VENTOR ATTORNEY f Patented Aug. 29, 1939 PROESS F KNITTING James Louis Gotas, Maryville, Tenn.
, Original application April 17, 1937, Serial No, ,l 137,451. Divided and this application April 12, 1938, Serial No. 201,473
7 Claims.
My invention consists in the novel features the same as is necessary for the purpose of explaining them, and the said invention is fully disclosed in the following description and claims. My present invention consists in a process of m making an ornamented plain kunit, preferably circular seamless fabric, having an elastic thread incorporated under tension in certain courses (or in all of the courses) and secured to the fabric at separated wales in each course in which the is elastic thread is knitted, without being drawn in a loop or loops at any point in the fabric, so that the elastic thread, preferably of rubber or the well known Lasten, lies in substantially undistortedl lines around the circular fabric, and
20 with suicient tension to draw the fabric together into vertically disposed rib-like"ridges, simulating rib knitting.`
The fabric produced by my improved process is not claimed herein as itforms the subject matter of my former application, filed April 17, 1937, and given Serial No. 137,451, of which this application is a division.
In carrying out my present invention, I feed the elastic thread under tension to the needles 3@ in advance of the knitting wave in such manner that it passes on the front side of certain needles, usually every alternate needle, below the latches Athereof and behind the intermediate needles, so
that it will not be drawn into al loop by either set 35 of needles. The needles are then divided into separate groups, and a backing or body thread is fed to the hooks of all the needles of all the groups, while .a plating threadis fed alternately into the hooks of one group of needles and floated o in rear of other groups of needles, the plating thread being fed preferably under slightly greater tension than the bodyd thread so as to appear on the face of the fabric when fed to the hooks of the needles, while the body thread will appear I 45 on the face of the fabric ywhere the plating thread is floated. Either the bodythread or'the plating thread, or both, may be thrown out of action and substituted by another thread according to the number of colorsV to be produced in the fabric. 50 It will be understood that the selection of the needles which receive the elastic thread in the two ways mentioned, the further selection of the needles into desired and preferably alternating groups, and the manipulation of the thread 55 guides for introducing and withdrawing the body thread, or the plating thread, or both, and substituting a different thread, will all be controlled by the usual pattern mechanism with which the' knitting machine is or may be provided, the par-e ticular patterns produced by the various threads 5 which are knitted to form' the fabric itself, to wit, the body thread or threads, and thev plating thread or threads, will ordinarily be of contrastlng colors, and widely varied patterns of such colors as are selected for the purpose may be produced under the control of the pattern mechanism. vIt will also be understood that during the knitting of the ornamented fabric, the elastic thread will be continuously incorporated under tension in the selected courses and firmly locked 1g in the selected `wales of said courses in the inanner previously described, preferably in 'the corresponding wales of each of said courses. The tension of the elastic thread will preferably be vsuch that the wales formed by the needles which receive the elastic thread beneath the latches thereof, will be forced to and form the front face of the fabric, while the wales formed by the intermediate needles will be forced to and form. the inner face of the fabric, which Willbe drawn together by the tension of the elastic thread into vertical rib-like ridges, closely resembling ribknit fabric. I l
By reason of' the incorporation of the elastic thread in the fabric in the manner described, the plain knit fabric Will have imparted to it formy fitting characteristics similar to those of rib knitting, while at`the same time the floated portions of the elastic thread on the inner face of the Yfabric will form a series of horizontally disposed beads to engage the skin of the wearer and supply a self-supporting characteristic to the circular fabric. This fabric finds its greatest use in the top portion of mens, womens and children's half hose and anklets, and the fabric per se without ,m`
ornamentation is fully disclosed in my former application for Letters Patent of the United States, Serial Number 53,824, filed December 10, 1935. My present invention permits of the manufacture of such articles of hosiery, and particularly those intended for'use by women and children, in which the tops ofthe socks or anklets are ornamented so as to present a more attractive appearanceV when displayed for vsale and when actually worn in the vdistended condition on the leg of the 50 wearer, without interfering with the introduction v of the elastic thread, and fully preserving both the form-fitting and self-supporting characteristics of the fabric. 1n this connection it will be readily understood that as the hereinafter described ornamented fabric is distended in use, the body thread which is used in all the stitches of the plain knit fabric will permit all necessary stretch of the fabric to accommodate the leg of the wearer. and that the float portions of the plating thread will be gathered together by the tension of the elastic thread when the fabric is removed from the knitting machine' and will, with the elasticity of the intervening stitches in which the plating thread is knit, provide .ample elasticarrangement of needles, Athread guides and cooperating parts in a known type of circular knitting machine for carrying my invention into effect. l
Fig. 2 is a vertical sectional view of a portion of the knitting cylinder on the line 2--2 of Fig. 1, showing a needle with its co-acting needle jack, selecting jack, and cooperating cams, the needle being in the lowered position.
Fig.- 3 is a similar view on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 is a View similar to Fig. 2on the line 4 -4 of Fig. 1, and showing a series of secondary selector cam levers, or reader cam levers, as they are sometimes termed.
Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 2, on the line 5--5 of Fig. 1. Fig. 6 represents a perspective view of a series of needles arranged in a straight line for purposes of illustration, and illustrating the manner of feeding the elastic thread thereto.
Fig. 7 is a similar viewI showing the manner in which the body or backing thread is fed to hooks of all of the needles, while the plating thread is fed to the hooks of certain groups of needles and floated in rear of other groups of needles.
Fig. 8 is a view similar to Figs. 6 and 7, showing loops drawn by both groups of needles, while the elastic thread passes in a straight line through the fabric and is locked in selected wales without forming any loops in the elastic thread.
Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic view of the inner face of my improved ornamented fabric in distended position, showing the arrangement of stitches to form a particular pattern.
Fig. 10 is a similar view illustrating the exterior face of the fabric.
Fig. l1 is a partial view similar to Fig. 9, showing the inner face of the fabric with the tension of the fabric partially released and the float portions of the plating threads relaxed.
Fig. 12 represents the upper portion of a sock or anklet, provided with a top composed of my improved ornamented fabric, showing a particular design. l
Fig. 13 shows a sock or anklet top formed of my improved ornamented fabric, and provided with a'dilerent design.
Fig. 14 shows a similar top for sock or anklet illustrating another design.
Referring to the drawings:
Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, the needle cylinder inl2,171,236 dicated at I, is provided with a circular series of needles, alternate needles being indicated at 2, and being the needles which receive the elastic thread below the latches thereof, the intervening needles of the series being indicated at 2a, each needle being provided with the usual knitting butt or nib 3 for engaging the usual knitting cams, shown at 4, 5 and 6. The cam 4 is operated only in connection with reciprocating work, and is shown in dotted lines in Fig. l. Below each needle is a needle jack I provided with a cam engaging butt or nib 8, below which' is a selecting jack 9 having portions of its inner edge disposed angularly to other portions so as to permit it to rock against the action of an encircling spring 25, engaging said selecting' jacks adjacent to their upper ends. Each selecting jack 9 is provided adjacent to its lower end with a plurality of selecting butts indicated at Ila, IIb, IIc, etc., preferably twenty-five in number below which is an operating butt I2 for normally engaginga selector cam indicated at I 3, when the selecting jack is in the position in which it is normally held by the spring 25. This selecting cam I3 is intended to elevate the alternate needles 2 which are to receive the elastic thread e (from a suitable thread guide e) below the latches thereof. In order that only the selected needles 2, which are. in this instance alternate needles, shall be raised by the selecting cam I3,
I provide means for knocking down the selecting jacks 9 for the intervening needles 2a, that is to' say, the lower ends of the jacks for the intervening needles 2a are forced inward so as to carry their butts I2 out of engagement with the cam I3,
`as shown at the left in Fig. 2. Any suitable means may be employed for this purpose, and in this instance I have shown a stationary auxiliary selector cam I6 for engaging one of the butts or nibs Il of the jacks for the needles 2a, the corresponding butts or nibs of the needles 2 being broken off so that the jacks for the needles 2 will not be`knocked down. As a result of this selection, all of the needles 2 will be elevated by thc selecting cam I3 to such a height that they will receive the elastic thread e below the latches thereof.. This is accomplished in the present instance by giving the selecting cam I3 sufficient height to carry the latches of needles 2 above the point at which the thread guide e delivers the elastic thread, but obviously the elastic thread could be fed on the latches of the needles and the needles thereafter elevated suiiiciently to carry their latches above the elastic thread, if
desired. The thread guide e" for the elastic thread, is preferably arranged' to swing horizontally into and out of operative position, so
' that the elastic thread can be fed in every course of knitting, or in selected courses, under the control of suitable pattern mechanism, and the elastic thread will be fed under predetermined tension, all as fully disclosed in my former application for Letters Patent of the United States Serial Number 53,824, filed' December 10, 1935.
These specific constructions form no part of my present invention, and need not be more particularly referred to.
, The selecting jacks 9 of the intervening needles 2a which are knocked down by the selector cam I 3, pass alongside ofand within the selecting cam I3, and are not raised. The selecting jacks 9 for the needles 2 will be returned to normal position by a cam I8 which engages the bu. ls 8 of the needle jacks 'I. In'Fig. 3, a needle 2 is shown elevated high enough to receive the elastic thread by a shedding cam II to the same height as the alternate needles 2, as shown in Fig. 1. As the Y intervening needles 2a rise, they pass in front of and behind adjacent needles, that is to say, in front of the alternate needles 2 below the latches thereof, and in rear of the intervening needles 2a.
It is now necessary to make a second selection of the needles into alternating groups. By the ,term group I wish it to be understood that I may include one or more needles, although as a matter of fact each of the alternating groups will ordinarily contain a plurality of needles in order to produce an effective part of the pattern.` In this instance, and for purposes of explanation, I have shown the needles divided into alternate groups of three needles each. `This secondary selection can be readily effected by a Well known form of selecting means with which the Scott and Williams spiral machine referred to is provided. This selecting mechanism comprises a series of horizontally 'disposed pivoted selecting cam levers, or reader cam levers as they are sometimes termed, a, 2Gb, 20c, etc., as'shown in Fig. 4, usually twenty-five in number, to accommodate a wide range of patterns. These levers are selectively operated by a series of butts or bits, somewhat similar to the butts I I, and arranged vertically on a trick wheel which is moved intermittently in a rotary direction by suitable connections with the pattern mechanism. This mechanism is well known and specifically forms no part of my invention, and it thereforewill not be further illustrated nor described. It will be understood that one or more of thelreader cam levers'will be operated at the proper times to knock down certain of the selecting jacks, so as to prevent `their operating butts I2 from engaging a group selecting cam I3a, the apex of which, indicated at I 3b, is higher than the apex of the selecting cam I3, as shown in Fig. 1.
In this instance I have shown only the selecting cam lever 20a ymoved inward by the trick wheel, into position to engage the first butt I Ia on groups of three needles successively, the intervening groups of three needles having the butts IIa of their selecting jacks broken off so that these `jacks will ride up the cam I3a. In order to make this clear in the drawings, Figs. 1, 'l and 8, I have indicated the alternate groups of needles, the jacks of which engage the selecting cam I3a, with a bracket under the letter while the alternate groups of three needles'each, the jacks of which are knocked down and do not engage the selecting cam I3a, 'are indicated under a bracket by the letter y. It will be understood that, as previously stated, all of the needles will have been raised to a height indicated by the dotted line z, in Fig. 1, after the first selection, previously described, the needles 2 having been raised by the cam I3 and their selecting jacks 9, preferably to the lshedding point, and the intervening needles 2a having been raised independently of their jacks by the cam I'I engaging the butts 3 of said needles. All of the needles will, therefore,` be at the saine height (indicated by dotted line e), and as the jacks of the selected needle groups :c approach the apex I3b of the cam l3ntl carrying with theln the needle jacks 'I, the needle jacks 1 will engage the needles of the groups a: and raise them to a higher level, indicated by the dotted line z', so as to enable the needles of groups to receive in their hooks a colors.
thread f (which I have termed the plating thread) from a thread feed guide f', while the needles of groups y will remain at the level indicated by dotted line 2, and will not take'the plating thread f. All of the 'groups of needles, however, take a body or backing thread b from a thread feed ting wave by cams 5 and 6, engaging their butts 3. It will, therefore; vbe seen that all of the groups a: of the needles will take both the plating thread and the body thread, while the needles of groups y will take only the body thread. As the needles engage knitting cams 5 and 6, the groups of jacks which have been raised by the selecting cam I3a, will be carried downward to their normal positions by the cam I8a, Fig. 1, which engages the butts 8 of the needle jacks 1.
As previously stated, I prefer to provide a plurality of thread feed guides for feeding alternately plating threads of different colors, and likewise I prefer to provide a plurality of thread feed guides for feeding body threads alternately of different In this instance, I have shown in Fig. -1, an auxiliary thread feed guide f2 for feeding a different face or plating thread f3, and I have also shown in the same figurean additional thread feed guide b2 for feeding a different body thread b3, but I do not limit myself to the use of any particular number of plating threads or body threads. It will be understood that only one guide b as the needles are carried down theknitthread guide for a plating thread, and one thread guide for a body thread, are ordinarily in the feeding position at the same time, the other or others being held in inoperative position.
While I have, for convenience of reference, indi,- cated the two inelastic threads of which the fabric is composed as body thread and plating thread,
respectively, it will be understood that vboth of these threads are in fact body threads which form the body of the fabric, and are not to be confused with wrap threads used for ornamenting a body fabric, and which do not enter into the structure of the fabric itself.
In Fig. 6 I have illustrated in a straightline for convenience of description, a series of consecutive needles 2 and 2a, after the elastic thread e has been fed thereto, and it will be noted that the elastic thread is interlaced with the needles as previously described, and passes under the latches of the alternating needles 2 and behind the intervening needles 2a.
In Fig. 7 I have illustrated, ina similar manner, the same needles after they have been selected into groups :l: and y, respectively, and have passed the feeding pointsfor the face or plating thread ,f and the body thread b. It will be noted tol that the needles of the groups receive both the 'l plating thread ,f and the body thread b within their hooks, while the lneedles in groups y receive only the body thread b, while the plating thread ,f is floated behind these needles, as indicated at f4, in Fig. 7.
sov
In Fig. 8 Il have illustrated the Vsame needles in 4 their lowered positions after passing the knitting Wave, and drawing their loops. It will be seen l in this figure, that the needles of groups :c will draw composite loops or stitches containing both the body thread b and plating thread f, ity being understood that the plating or face thread ,f will be fed under slightly greater tension than the body thread, so as to cause it to appear onthe face of the fabric. 'I'he needles of the groups y will drawV single loops of the body thread b only,
while the plating thread will be floated, as indicated at f4, on the back of the fabric in rear of those needles. It will also be seen that as the needles descend, whether of one group or another,
`drawn are single loops or composite loops at the wales formed by the needles 2a.
In Fig. ,12, I have shown a sock or anklet L provided'with a top T of my improved plain knit rubber incorporated fabric containing a design selected by me for purposes of illustration, and capablel of being produced by the arrangement of selected needles operating in the manner which I have just described' it being understood that this is merely for purposes of explanation and that any desired pattern can be carried out in any desired colors in the manner previously described.
.Referring to the top T, t represents the usual selvage or welt, which is preferably formed of a plurality of courses of stitches containing both the body thread as b, and a plating thread, as f, knit continuously, and preferably containing in each course, or in certain selected courses, the elastic thread e, incorporated as previously described, to form continuous plating. It is only necessary to rotate the trick wheel so that the selecting cam lever 20a will be returned to normal position and the selecting jacks 9 for all of the needles will then be carried up by the group selecting cam I3a to the level indicated by the dotted line z', when all of the needles will take both the plating thread and the body thread.
The trick wheel is then rotated to throw the selecting cam lever 20a into-the position shown in Fig. 4, when a series of courses indicated at t' in Fig. 12, may be knit in the manner previously described. This will result in the pattern herein shown in Fig. 12, in a transverse row of rectangular figures t6 and t1, of which t8 'represents stitches produced by the needle groups .1: containing both the body thread and plating thread in plated relation with the plating thread on the face of the fabric, while the rectangles t1 repre sent stitches of the body thread only, produced by the needle groups y.
t2 represents aseries of courses of stitches containing a body thread and plating thread throughout, in plated relation, again accomplished by shifting the trick wheel so that none of the needles will be knocked down, and all will be raised by the cam I3a.
t3 represents a series of courses of stitches containing alternating rectangles t6, t1, in which the pattern is varied by causing the plated stitches in the rectangles t6 containing both the body and plating threads'to be knit by the groups y of the needles, while the intervening groups of stitches 'forming the blocks t1 are knit by the groups :a
of the needles. This is conveniently eected by a. shift of the trick wheel in a well known way to bring another of the selecting Acam levers, as 20h.
into position to engage butts IIb of the groups y of the needles, the butts IIb of the groups x of the' needlesbeing broken ofi', in accordance with the well-known operation of the Scott and Wil-l liams spiral machine, above referred to.
t4 represents a series of courses of continuous plating. t5 represents a series of courses corresponding exactly to the courses t', and in this instance a series of courses, indicated at tl, and
corresponding with the series of courses t of continuous plating, completes this particular design.
It will be understood that the figures indicated at t1 of the design, in this instance rectangles, will appear in solid color formed-of the body thread with the plating thread floated on the inner face of the fabric, while the'intervening spaces or figures will present the color of the plating thread. The intervening courses, as t2, t4,- may also present the plating thread of the same or a different color on the vsurface of theA fabric. It will also be understood that either the body thread or the plating thread, or both, may be changed by shifting the thread feed guides so that a variety of colors may appear in the pattern, or they may be confined to two colors, as desired. It will also be understood that when my improved fabric, as the fabric T for example, is removed from the knitting machine, the tension of the elastic thread e in the several courses (or all the courses) will'draw the fabric into vertically disposed rib-like ridges resembling rib-work. The wales in which the elastic thread is locked at e2 (Fig. 8), will be drawn to the inner face of the fabric, While the intervening wales will be drawn to the outer face of the fabric. This lateral contraction of the fabric relieves the float threads, vindicated at f4, and provides slack therein, which permits thereafter the normal stretch of the fabric as in pulling a stocking over the heel andupon the leg without unduly restricting the fabric.
In Fig. 9 AI have shown diagrammatically a portion of the inner face of my improved fabric y showing the alternating groups of plain stitches and plated stitches in several courses, and the position of the elastic threads here shown in every other course:
Fig. 10 is a similar view showing the outer face considerable tension.
Fig. 11 is a partial view of the inside of the fabric with the tension somewhat relaxed, show ing the slack in the oats f4 of the plating thread, the elastic threads being still in a state of tension which in the actual fabric holds the oppositely facing alternating wales close together, thus producing a smooth faced fabric comprising the alternate wales which project to the outer face, the intermediate wales being substantially concealed when the fabric is not distended. Obviously, when the fabric is stretched to a greater or lesser extent, as it is when it is worn on the leg of the wearer, the units of the pattern will be slightly extended transversely of lthe top. and will ordinarily show to even better advantage than they do in the undistended condition of the fabric.
As before stated, a wide variety of patterns can be produced in a wide variety of colors, and in Figs. 13 and 14 I have illustrated diagrammatically and suggestively, two additional patterns which can readily be produced by proper manipulation of the pattern mechanism previously described. y
Where in the following claims I have referred to the plating thread and a contrasting body thread, or vice versa, I intend to indicate either contrast of color' or contrast of I naterial, or finish, or any othertype of contrast which will cause one of said threads to be easily distinguishn able from the other in the fabric.
In an ordinary float plated fabric the presence of floats tends to increase the width of the fabric and to materially limit and reduce the extent to which it may be stretched. Such fabric is, therefore, not commercially usable in any part p of the stocking except the leg and foot. By the incorporation of the elastic thread, as herein described, it is particularly adaptable for use for the top of a stocking, by knitting it so as to pro-- vide the necessary width when stretched, while the elastic threads draw the fabric together to reduce the diameter to form-fitting size, both at and between the elastic carrying courses, and
producing Aslack in the oats of the body thread on the inner face of the fabric to permit the fabric to be expandedas necessary when drawn on the foot and leg, in addition to providing the transverse beads on the inner face of the fabric to indent the leg and support the stocking thereon.
What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:
1. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form fitting and self-supporting fabric, which consists in producing continu- -ous coursesl of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, introducing in certain courses an elastic threadin front of spaced selected needles, and in rear of intervening needles, and in certain courses, feeding one of said inelastic body threads in front of separated selected groups of needles, and the second inelastic body thread in rear of said selected groups and feeding both inelastic body threads to the intervening groups of needles, in plated relation with said second thread on the outer face of the fabric, and applying sufficient tension to said elastic thread to draw the fabric together when disengaged from the needles to reduce its diameter and drawwales thereof together and bring the floated portions of said second inelastic body thread into slackened condition.
2. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form-fitting Vand self-supporting fabric, which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, and in. certain courses effecting a needle separation to bring spaced selected needles at a higher levelthan non-selected needles, and feeding an elastic thread under tension in front of said selected needles and in rear of the non-selected needles, and in certain courses effecting an independent needle separation to bring spaced groups of needles at a higher level than intervening groups and feeding one of said inelastic body threads to the hooks of the said selected groups of needles and the second inelastic body thread in rear thereof, and feeding both of said inelastic body threads to all the needles of the intervening groups in plated relation, with the said second thread on the outside of the fabric, and applying sufficient tension to the elastic thread to draw the fabric together when disengaged from tlie needles, and submerge certain wales thereof, andform vertical rib-like ridges in the fabric.
3. A method of making tubular plain knit seamy less ornamented form-fitting' Vand self-support- Y ing fabric, which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, and in certain courses effecting a needle separation to bring spaced selected needles at a higher level than non-selected needles,- and feeding an elastic thread under tension in front of said vselected needles and in rear of thel non-selectedneedles, bringing the needles to the same level and thereafter in certain courses effecting an independent needle separation to bring spaced selected groups of needles at a different level to that of intermediate groups of needles, feeding one of said inelastic threads to said spaced groups only, and floating the second inelastic body thread in rear thereof, and feeding both inelastic body threads to said intermediate groups in plated relation with the said second thread on the outer face of the fabric, and applying sumcient tension to the elastic thread to draw the fabric together, to bring certain wales thereof intocontact, and submerge intervening wales, and thereby form vertical riblike ridges in the fabric.
4. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form-tting and self-supporting fabric, which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, and in certain courses interlacing an elastic thread in front ofv and below the latches of alternate needles and in rear of intervening needles and in certain groups eifecting a needle separation to bring spaced selected groups of needles at a higher level than intervening groups, and feeding one of said inelastic body threads to the hooks of said selected groups of needles and the second inelastic body thread in rear of said selected groups, and feeding both inelastic body threads to the hooks of the needles of the intervening groups in plated relation with the said second thread on the outer'face of the fabric, and applying suiiicient tension to said elastic thread to draw the alternate wales togetherand submerge the intervening wales of the fabric when released from the needles, and bring the floated portions of said second inelastic body thread into slackhigher level than intervening needles, feeding an elasticthread in front of and below the latches of said alternate needlesandin rear of the l intervening needles, bringing said needles to a common level, effecting a' second needle separation to bring spaced selected groups of needles at a higher level than intervening groups, feeding one of said inelastic threads tothe hooks of the needles of said selected groups and floating the second inelastic body thread in rear, of said selected groups and feeding both inelastic body threads to the hooks of the needles of the intervening groups in plated relation with the second thread on the outer face of the fabric and applying sufficient tension to said elastic thread to draw the alternate Wales of the fabric together and submerge the intervening wales and bring vthe floated portions of said second inelastic body thread into slackened condition.
6. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form-fitting and self-supporting fabric which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrastingJinelasticbody threads, and in certain courses raising alternate needles, feeding an elastic thread thereto below the latches thereof, bringing the needlesto a common level to interlace said elastic thread therewith, effecting a second and independent needle separation,`
`bringing spaced selected groups of needles at a u higher level than intervening groups, feeding one of said inelastic body threads to the hooks of the needles of said selected groups only and floating the second inelastic body thread in rear of said selected groups, and feeding both inelastic body threads to the hooks of the needles oi the intervening groups in plated relation with seid second thread on the outer face of the fabric and applying sufiicient tension to said elastic thread to draw the .alternate Wales of the fabric together when disengaged from the needles to reduce its diameter, and submerge intervening wales and bring the floated portions of said second inelastic body thread into slackened condition.
7. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form-fitting and self-supporting fabric by the aid of a circular knitting machine and a single circular series of needles which consists in producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads, and in certain courses raising alv ternate needles to the shedding point, and feeding thereto an elastic thread under tension below the latches thereof in advance of the throat, raising the intervening needles to the shedding point to interlace the elastic thread therewith, in certain courses effecting a second needle selection by raising the needles of 'selected alternating groups above the shedding point and ieeding to the hooks thereof one of said inelastic body threads, and iloating it in rear of. the needles ofintervening groups, feeding tlie other inelastic body thread to all of the needles of the circular series with the said thread havingoatedportions on the inside of the fabric, and in certain courses feeding both inelastic body threads to the hooks of all the needles throughout the entire course in plated relation, and applying sufiicient tension to the 'elastic thread to draw alternate Wales of the fabric together and submerge intervening wales, and bring the iioated portions of the body thread into slackened condition.
JAMES L. GETAZ.
US201473A 1937-04-17 1938-04-12 Process of knitting Expired - Lifetime US2171236A (en)

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2420771A (en) * 1945-11-30 1947-05-20 Herman E Crawford Knitting machine and method
US2964932A (en) * 1958-02-13 1960-12-20 Wildman Jacquard Co Knitting machine and method
DE1185328B (en) * 1959-06-18 1965-01-14 Walter Hugo Scheibe Process for the production of jacquard-patterned warp knitted fabrics with openings filled with weft threads according to the jacquard pattern
WO2014150145A3 (en) * 2013-03-15 2014-11-27 Hbi Branded Apparel Enterprises, Llc Circularly knitted garment
US20210246584A1 (en) * 2020-02-07 2021-08-12 Nike, Inc. Reflective knit component

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2420771A (en) * 1945-11-30 1947-05-20 Herman E Crawford Knitting machine and method
US2964932A (en) * 1958-02-13 1960-12-20 Wildman Jacquard Co Knitting machine and method
DE1185328B (en) * 1959-06-18 1965-01-14 Walter Hugo Scheibe Process for the production of jacquard-patterned warp knitted fabrics with openings filled with weft threads according to the jacquard pattern
WO2014150145A3 (en) * 2013-03-15 2014-11-27 Hbi Branded Apparel Enterprises, Llc Circularly knitted garment
US9232823B2 (en) 2013-03-15 2016-01-12 Hbi Branded Apparel Enterprises, Llc Band for garment
US9554600B2 (en) 2013-03-15 2017-01-31 Hbi Branded Apparel Enterprises, Llc Band for garment
US20210246584A1 (en) * 2020-02-07 2021-08-12 Nike, Inc. Reflective knit component

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