US2168948A

US2168948A - Shoe

Info

Publication number: US2168948A
Application number: US184672A
Authority: US
Inventors: Jr Bona Allen
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1938-01-12
Filing date: 1938-01-12
Publication date: 1939-08-08
Anticipated expiration: 1956-08-08

Description

g- 3, 1939- B. ALLEN, JR 2,168,948

SHOE

Filed Jan. 12, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 1939. B. ALLEN, JR 2,168,948

SHOE

Filed Jan. 12, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 MMW Z Patented Aug. 8, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 3 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in boots, shoes and the like, the particular purpose in mind for the use of the boot being that by sportsmen. Foot-wear now marketed for this purpose is customarily very heavy because of the rough use to which it is subjected. It has been found that a sportsmans boot can be made rugged and yet not uncomfortably heavy, and

7' one contribution toward that end comprises the instant improvement to what is generally termed the toe construction.

This construction eliminates all cross seams and projections which would result in internal ridges to press against and injure the foot of 5 the wearer. The toe construction and seaming are such as to produce what is conveniently termed a moccasin toe. With this preamble in mind, attention is directed to the invention, the specific objects of which are as follows:

First, to provide a boot or shoe especially adapted to sportsmen, to which end the tee is of a moccasin (or imitation moccasin) construction, with the particular advantages of protecting the main seam from briars, sharp stones 5 and the like, and making the seam as nearly waterproof as possible.

Second, to provide a boot wherein the toepiece and vamp are put together with two rows of stitching, thus producing a double rip-proof 30 construction.

Third, to produce a pronounced bead in the foregoing construction, so that the main seam is overhung by the bead to ward off briars and stones which might injure or out said seam.

Fourth, to carry out the steps of an improved method according to which the toe-piece and vamp parts are initially stitched, cemented, formed and finally stitched to produce the con struction previously described.

Other objects and advantages will appear in the following specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a portion of the boot, particularly illustrating the toe con- 45 struction.

Figure 2 is a cross section taken on the line 22 of Fig. 1.

Figure 3 is an enlarged sectional view particularly illustrating the merits of the seam con- 50 struction.

Figure 4 is a plan view of the vamp.

Figure 5 is a plan view of the toe-piece.

Figure 6 is a cross section taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 4.

Figure '7 is a cross section taken on the line 1-4 of Fig. 5, said Figures 4, 5, 6 and '7 illustrating the first step of making the toe construction.

Figure 8 is a plan View illustrating the second step of making the toe construction wherein the 5 toe piece and vamp are initially sewed together with fine stitching.

Figure 9 is a section taken on the line 9-9 of Fig. 8.

Figure 10 is a sectional perspective view illusl0 trating the third step of making the toe construction, wherein the cementing and forming are done.

Figure 11 is a cross section illustrating the fourth step of making the toe construction 15 wherein the heavy stitching is put in.

In carrying out the invention the boot I (Fig.

l) is shown as comprising the top 2 (only partially shown), lacing 3, sole 4, welt 5 and toe construction 6. The latter term is chosen merely as a matter of convenience to designate that part of the boot in which the particular improvement is embodied.

Said toe construction comprises a vamp I and a toe-piece 8. The vamp I has wings 9 (Fig. 4) extending well along the sides ID of the boot and, actually, terminate at the heels where their extremities are covered and sewed under an upright heel piece or guard.

But reverting to the vamp I and toe-piece 8 it is to be particularly noted in Fig. 3 that the margins II and I2 respectively of the vamp I and toe-piece 8 are overlapped at I3 for a considerable distance. In this particular locality there is a triple seam construction which in- 5 cludes the overlapping margin and the body piece I4 adjacent to the vamp margin II. The margins II, I2 are secured by relatively fine stitching I5, whereas the triple seam construction is secured by heavy stitching I6.

When this stitching is put in its location is so chosen that the pressure incidental to the insertion of the stitches produces a pronounced bead I'I. At a time before the stitching I6 is put in the internal surfaces are covered with cement I8. This coating of cement is put on the bead in order to hold it together until it has been sewed. The margins II, I2 and the body piece I4 stand substantially perpendicular to the vamp and toepiece, as the case may be, the covering of the margin I2 by the margin II and the inward lapping of the latter avoiding the exposure of the margin on the outside of the vamp. Thus, the seam construction is made as nearly waterproof as possible.

Another and most important efiect of the bead I1 is that its sides 2| bulge out beyond the ends 22 of the heavy stitching IS. The degree of protection thus afforded is roughly designated by the clearance lines 23. The advantage thus obtained is a definite housing of the exposed parts or ends of the stitching I6 within the limits of the bead IT. The latter extends beyond the ends of the stitching l6, sheltering it to such an extent that the encountering of the boot with briars 24, sharp stones, fence rails and the like will not ordinarily injure and cut the main stitches. This is regarded as important because by thus guarding the main heavy stitches Hi the life of the boot is prolonged to a far greater degree than that of any shoe of common construction.

The method of making the boot can almost be understood from the foregoing consideration of Fig. 3, but in order to bring out the various steps, attention is directed to Figs. 4 to 11. The vamp 1 comprises an arched piece of leather which has an internally arched flange 25. The nether surface of this arch and of the wings 9 is skived at 26 (Fig. 6). The toe-piece 8 is similarly skived at 2'! on its nether surface. The skiving is done in such a way as to leave square edges 28 in each instance. This constitutes a better construction than if the margins were skived out to feather edges.

After the toe-piece and vamp are cut to the forms indicated, the second step is carried out by assembling them (Fig. 8) and initially securing them with the line of fine stitching I previously mentioned. In this assemblage the top surface of the toe-piece 8 is laid against the skived nether surface of the vamp T (Fig. 9). The stitching I5 is then put in as stated.

The third step (Fig. 10) comprises the addition of the cement l8 and the forming of the seam construction into the upstanding rib 29. When this rib is stitched with the heavy lock stitch seam IE, it is transformed into the bead I! already described in conjunction with Fig. 3.

I claim:

1. In an article of footwear, a toe construction comprising a vamp and a toe-piece, said toe-piece having a margin standing substantially perpendicular thereto, said vamp also having a margin standing substantially perpendicular thereto and being turned over the edge of the toe-piece margin to overlap the later toward the inside of the toe-piece, thereby enclosing the margin of the toe piece, and avoiding exposure of the joint between said margins, and stitches driven through said toe-piece and vamp margins and through the overlap of the latter.

2. In an article of foot-wear, a toe construction comprising a vamp and a toe-piece, said toe-piece having a margin standing substantially perpendicular thereto, said vamp also having a margin standing substantially perpendicular thereto and being turned over the edge of the toe-piece margin to overlap the latter toward the inside of the toe-piece, thereby enclosing the margin of the toe-piece, and terminating in a portion lying parallel with and upon said toe-piece, thus avoiding all outside exposure of the toe-piece margin, stitches driven medially through said toe-piece and vamp margins and through the overlap of the latter, and other stitches driven through the terminal portion of the overlapping margin and a portion of the toe-piece margin.

3. In an article of foot-wear, a toe construction comprising a vamp and a toe-piece, said toepiece having a margin standing substantially perpendicular thereto, said vamp also having a margin standing substantially perpendicular thereto and being turned over the edge of the toe-piece margin to overlap the latter toward the inside of the toe-piece, thereby enclosing the margin of the toe-piece, and avoiding exposure of the joint between said margins, and stitches driven through said toe-piece and vamp margins and through the overlap of the latter, that portion of the vamp margin turned over the edge of the toe-piece margin being bulged at its sides to extend beyond the contiguous ends of the stitches thereby to protect said exposed ends.

BONA ALLEN, JR.