US215310A - Improvement in dres s - makers - Google Patents

Description

= MQB. ADAMS.

`Drerss-Makers Chart.

No. 215,310. Patented May13,1879.

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UNITE-D" xPara @Prion MARGARET E. ADAMS, OF SOUTH BEND, INDIANA.

IMPROVEMENT 4IN D RESS-MAKERS CHARTS.

Specification forming part of Letters Pate11tN0.`215,310, dated May 13, 1879 application filed December 3, 1878.

To all whom it may concern:

of South Bend, in the county of St. Joseph and State of Indiana, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Pattern-Charts; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon.

The object I have in view is to produce guide-charts for measuring and drafting ladies and childrens dresses from a small number of actual measurements, which will insure a more perfect lit than is possible by the charts heretofore used, will be simple and compact in their construction, and can be easily applied; and my invention therein consists in the peculiar form of the two charts composing my system, and the various scales carried by each, one chart, which I call the square, being of' rectangular exterior shape, and having scales for the measurement of the front neck, the front and the back shoulder, the back arm-size, and the front waist, and having a curve-edged opening for drafting the front neck; and the other chart (distinguished in this description as the rule) being principally of curved forni, and carrying right and left gore-scales, an arm-size scale made from a division of the chest-measure, a back-neck scale, and a back-waist scale, and provided with curved outside edges and curved inside edges (around an opening) for drafting the front and back shoulder, the back neck, the

arm-size, the darts, the back, and sides.

In the drawings, Figure l is a plan view of the square, and Fig. 2 a similar View of the rule.

The square A is of rectangular form, with straight-ruling edges, but preferably is not equilateral. On its upper long side is the front-waist scale a, divided into inches, and having the quarter -inches numbered (commencing six inches from the left corner) from 14 up to 42.

In the left side of the square is cut a curved slot, b, extending nearly to the side edge of the square, its inner edge being used to draft the front neck. Along the ruling-edge of the slot b are markingperforations, b1, which are numbered, as shown, to give the size of the front neck. Above the-'perforations b1 are other Be it known that I, MARGARET E. ADAMs,

perforations, 112.,.for determining the slope of the shoulders.

Parallel with the left side of the square, and running from points below a number of the perforations bl, are lines which show where the edge of the cloth should come in cutting different sizes of front neck. Running at right angles to these lines, parallel with the upper edge, and to the right of the perforations b2, are two other lines, which determine the position of the square on the cloth at its upper edge for diEerently-sloped shoulders.

To the right of the slot b is a series of perforations, c, for laying off the front shoulder, placed one-half inch apart, the alternate ones being numbered from 3 to l1. These perforations are not on a straight line, as heretofore; but the line tends downwardly at iirst, and then curves upwardly, as shown, this arrangement of the perforations being better adapted for the various lengths of shoulders and producing a better fit.

In the lower right-hand corner, and parallel with the right side edge of the square A, is a straight line of back-neck perforations, d, to determine the slope of the back shoulder, placed one-half inch apart, and altern ately numbered from 3 to 6 and to the right of these perforations and parallel therewith is a line to determine the position of the square in regard to the edge of the cloth.

Above the back neck perforations d and ,near the center of the square are the back* shoulder perforations c, arranged, as shown, upon the equal sides of an obtuse angle, and numbered in inches from 3 to l0. Above the perforations e are the back arm-size perfora tions f, arranged upon the short and long sides of a right angle, and numbered in inches. This manner of placing the back-shoulder and arm-size scales in relation to each other and to the back-neck scale is intended to give a better fit, being adapted for the forms of the various sizes of persons.

The rule B has its upper short edge straight. Its long right-side edge is also straight, except at its lower end, g, where it is curved to draft the darts. This long straight side is provided with a back-waist scale, h, divided into inches, with the quarter-inches numbered from 14 to 47. The left side of the rule is curved outwardly at its upper end, i, for forming the lmeeting-edges of the backs and sides of the basque, and is curved inwardly at its lower end, j, for drafting the front and back shoulder, the Whole side being of ogee form. The lower end of the rule connecting the shoulderform j with the dart-point g is straight. In the ruleB is cutacurved opening, 7c, for drafting the arm-size and back neck; and on the arm-size side of this opening is marked a scale, t, which is a division of the chest measurement, while on the other side of the opening is the backneck scale o. Right and left gore-scales m u are placed on the rule in the positions shown.

The operation of my square and rule Will be easily understood by those versed in the use of pattern-charts, and their advantages readily appreciated by them.

What I claim as my invention is- 1. In pattern charts for measuring and drafting dresses, the square A, of rectangular form, carrying the scales a., bl, b2, c, d, e, and j, arranged as shown, for the purposes set forth, and provided with the curved slot b, for drafting the front neck, substantially as described.

2. In pattern charts, the rule B, having curved edges g ij, curved slot 7c, and scales h, l, m, n, and o, arranged substantially as shown, for the purposes set forth.

3. In pattern-charts, the combination of the square and rule A B, the square being of rectangular form, and having curved slot I) and scales a, b1, b2, c, d, e, and f, and the rule being formed with curved edges g i j and curved slot k, and provided with scales It Z m n o, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

This specification signed and witnessed this 21st day of October, 1878.

MARGARET E. ADAMS.

Witnesses:

O. S. WITHERILL, t J oHN BRoWNFrELD, J r.

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