US2150480A - Method of making turned shoes - Google Patents

Description

March 14, 1939. G. R. BA BB I 2,150,480

I v METHOD OF MAKING TURNED SHOES Filed Aug. 12, 1936 2 sheets-sheet 1 velziar flay March 14, 1939.. BABB 2,150,480 METHOD OF MAKING TURNED sqon s I Filed Aug. 12, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 In yen for.

Gerald R. Babb fliiorney Patented Mar. 14, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 3 Claims.

This invention relates to shoemaking and consists in an improvement in the manufacture of turned shoes. K

The structure of the so-called turned shoe heretofore made and marketed, while open to a great potential popularity, has consistently shown defects and weaknesses that have over-shadowed its many advantages.

My present improvements relate more particularly to shoes of this type in which a shank piece is to be used, such shank pieces usually being combined with a metal shank stifiener or reinforcement for the theoretically well adapted, and for the most part really designed for use in such shoes. However, in spite of a wide range of structure and design the actual embodiment of such shank pieces in this type of shoe has been commercially disappointing and trouble breeding.

The great flexibility in the forepart of turn shoes has thrown a heavy and often destructive strain on the after parts of the shoe. This has been a common and vexatious experience in turn shoemaking. The solution of this problem has bafiled the efforts of shoe manufacturer and machinery expert alike. 25 My concept is that of providing for an integration of certain of the old turn shoe elements into a new relation, whereby the shoes so made have all the virtues of the turned shoe type, but none of its particular structural weaknesses. My invention contemplates the provision of a novel shank construction which resists the stresses peculiar to turned shoes and eliminates hitherto troublesome disadvantages of turned shoes.

Briefly summarized, my invention may be said 35 to contemplate a novel turned shoe structure including a prepared sole fitted on one side to receive the overlasted margin of an inside-out shoe upper for any type of fastening suitable for turn shoe manufacture. The sole may be fitted on its other side with a flap or flaps for covering the fastening means if desired. An inside-out shoe upper is lasted to said sole by any form' of suitable fastening, and an inside shank piece is provided of suitable material to retain firmly a fastening, with or without a metal or other reinforcing material. The second or relastinglast may have any resisting material on the bottom, shank and heel portions capable of clinching, upsetting, or otherwise stopping, any penetrating material used for fastening, however done. A moulded or flat counter may be used or no counter at all. All of the necessary parts when put together are turned right side out and formed by the insertion of the second last." On this they are held rigidly in place over its resisting hard bottom which underlies it at the shank and heel portions and the completion of which prepares said novel turn shoe structure to receive fastenings driven from the outside along the shank and heel portions. These fastenings may be of any kind of material capable of being passed or driven from any desirable point on the outside of the shank and heel portions, such fastenings being left exposed or covered by a flap or flaps, as desired, being driven through vertically or at an angle from the outside of the sole through any or all materials between the outside of the sole at the shank and heel portions toward the inside surface of the shank and heel portions of the turn shoe structure. Such fastenings of whatever kind used, may be embedded, clinched, or otherwise fastened so completely in the materials forming the shank and heel portions of said shoe over forming last, that the new and novel shank and heel portions of said turned shoe becomes one solid unitary arch truss. This consolidates the rear of this novel turn shoe into a solid formation, resulting in a rigid, compact, form-retaining back part of the shoe.

My method is simple and inexpensive in operation, as will appear from the following discussion in the succeeding specification. In this I have referred to drawings which are necessarily somewhat diagrammatic or suggestive, but which will illustrate my inventions tothose skilled in shoemaking.

In the drawings:-

Fig. l is a plan view of the grain side of a sole according to my invention showing the channelor lip indicated along the edges of the shank portion.

Fig. 2 is 'a section through the shank portion of such a sole but with channel flaps laid down.

Fig. 3 is a plan View of the flesh side of such a sole.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the bottom of a last adapted for use in accordance with my invention, showing a metal facing.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary view in cross section taken through the shank portion of a .last constructed according to my invention.

Fig. 6 is an indicative showing of the bottom of a lasted shoe.

Fig. '7 is a view similar to Fig. 6 showing the shoe of Fig. 6 re-lasted and stapled or fastened at the shank portion of the shoe.

Fig. 8 is an enlarged longitudinal section through the shank portion of the-finished shoe along the line of fastening.

Fig. 9 is a transverse section through the shank portion of the shoe, and

Fig. 10 is a plan view of a typical shank piece and stiffener.

As first above indicated, the turned shoes produced in accordance with my invention, while of the general turned type, and produced by methods generally similar to the manufacture of such shoes as heretofore practiced, are structurally of such new and improved nature as to make them really a new article of footwear.

My method, moreover, as will be hereinafter more fully developed, involves certain radically novel departures from the old practice. For the purposes of illustration I have shown a characteristic shoe structure and indicated certain steps of a method for its production, but I do not wish to be restricted thereby as such disclosure is intended to be illustrative, suggestive and instructive to those skilled in the art and not at all to be construed as by way of limitation.

Referring to the drawings, and considering a characteristic shoe and its parts, I have indicated at l a sole member. This has on its grain side along the edges of the shank portion, a shallow channel 2 cut to form a lip which may be thrown up in the usual way. This may be done by such machines as are already provided for such purposes, the flap being adapted to be laid back and later cemented in place to cover the fastenings disposed along the channel bottom. On its opposite or flesh side P, the sole may be prepared or stock-fitted in the usual manner for either surface stitching or shoulder stitching, as may be desired,'or for any combination of stitching adapted to such a shoe structure. This may be done by stitching the forepart only and fastening the shank piece with means other than stitching, such for example, as stapling or pegging with fibre or other material.

All such details are largely optional, but it is to be noted that my concept provides for the utilization of all that extensive technique of turn shoe-making that has been so patiently and studiously developed in the factory manufacture of such shoes in the past generation and still more so by intensive commercial competitive production.

I have indicated the channel and its lip generally at2 and a typical type of shoulder as at 3 adapted to receive stitching laid by any suitable sewing machine. I have indicated at 4 a shank piece of the usual type and at 5 a stiffening piece or bar usually tacked to the shank piece t which preferably is of fibre or similar material.

Practically any type of shank piece may be used. Those designed for turned shoes are usually of sufiiciently rigid structure to brace the shoe at the shank portion thereof as much as possible. This is particularly necessary in turned shoes because of the great flexibility in the forepart sole region and the resultant effects of such flexibility have tended to work back towards the heel seat as the shoe is flexed in wear, producing a slackness in the shank portion of the shoe caused by the sole falling away from the inside shank piece and usually causing eventual loss of fit and form and the line to which the shoe was styled.

According to my concept this slackness or socalled bagginess in the shoe at the shank or instep area of the foot is anticipated and prevented by embodying a shank piece in that region of the sole in such a way that it becomes in effect a truss or overhanging buttressing support in advance of the heel.

For the production of my new type of turned shoes I have devised a simple, methodical basis of procedure consistent with usual factory practice in the manufacture of turned shoes and capable of operation with usual and simple equipment or with readily available equipment or such equipment only very slightly modified.

In such equipment my invention contemplates as an accessory, a new and improved last, especially adapted for the second lasting. I am well aware that wooden lasts have long been bottomed with sheet metal or other surfacing for various purposes, and that such so-called iron bottoms have been provided for various areas and over different parts of lasts.

While generally similar in construction to such former lasts, my new lasts, according to my pres ent invention and concept, and as provided for in its practice, consists of a usually turned wooden foot form 8 to which I attach a plate 6 of thin metal with nails or any equivalent fastenings (Fig. 4) The surfacing preferably consists of a heel area 6 a shank area 6 and a forepart 5 The heel area B is generally similar to the usual heel iron of a last as such is commonly provided. It is apertured, as is also its shank portion, as at 1, so that the underlying wood can be reached for temporary tacking. The size and location of these apertures of course depends on the specifications for the make-up of the shoe and its mode of assembly, or they may be omitted altogether if unnecessary under turn shoe construction, as in the practice of the method of Letters Patent to Lumbard, No. 1,789,046.

Preferably the plate 6 is in one piece and is of any desired size sufiicient in accordance with my invention to amply underlie by a generous margin the shank piece to be used in the inside of the shoe. For this purpose it is slightly narrower than the width of the last shank area E of the last but of a breadth amply to underlie the shank piece of the shoe on each side of the shank stiffener, which is positioned usually centrally longitudinally of the shank piece and attached to it at its opposite ends. It may be slightly rounded at its edges or flat, or for certain types of fastening it may be slightly-concaved. This depends on whether the fastening used is a staple, headed tack, fibre peg or any one of the various commonly used fastening members.

When the sole 1 has been channeled and stock fitted, it is tacked on the first or sewing last, flesh side up. The upper is then drawn over the last wrong-side out as in ordinary turn lasting. The upper is then fastened to the sole along the flesh side channel in any one of the usual ways. This may be done by stitching all around and tacking the stitching from heel breast around toe to heel breast, or heel seat. The heel seat portion or other portions of the shoe may then be partly stitched, staple-lasted or pegged, depend ing on the process and results desired. The first or sewing last is then withdrawn from the upper, the upper turned right side out, and the lining lifted for insertion of a molded counter, if used, after which the lining is tucked down in place and the shank piece with or without reinforcement attached, is inserted into the shoe and tacked in place in the heel portion for maintaining it in proper longitudinal position and alignment in the shoe. The shoe is then ready to receive the second or forming last on which is a metal bottom indicated by the plate 6.

In the event that a fiat counter process is employed, the counter is'inserted when the shoe is wrongside out and before the upper is fastened to the flesh side of the sole and held in place by the sewing on the first last. The first last is then withdrawn from the upper and the upper turned right side out. The shank piece with or without reinforcement attached is inserted as before described.

one great advantage of my invention arises from the fact that in the molded counter type of manufacture, the counter and shank piece are held in place by the second or forming last, and are not subject to distortion when subjected to the fastening operation herein described. In fact, if desired, the longer types of moulded counters can be used and can be embodied in pairs as lefts and rights.

After the shoe is re-lasted, the channel on the grain side is lifted and is ready to receive a fastening which penetrates from the outside through the sole and all of the substances between the sole and the hard bottom of the second or forming last. Thus, my invention provides for the unification of the Whole shank and sole area by through and through fastenings, hereinbefore referred to, while all members of the shoe of whatever turn process is used, are fastened in place without distortion. By including in my concept such a fastening means of driven and clinched members, I am enabled enormously to increase the strength and rigidity of the shoe at this point. I can prevent it from rolling or rocking in use in advance of the heel and prevent the sole from falling away from the shank piece and in this manner prevent the bulging of the shoe after being worn.

In this operation, as will be immediately apparent to those skilled in the art, where the operative is holding the unlasted shoe by hand against a stapling, tacking, sewing or pegging machine, there is great danger that the back part of the shoe will be distorted at the very moment when it is about to be made completely permanent and immobile. I have endeavored to illustrate by somewhat enlarged sections in Figs. 8 and 9, a shoe with this incorporation of the shank parts into a rigid truss or buttress member.

In Fig. 7 the flap of the channel 2 is indicated as folded back on one side to expose the fastenings l0 laid in the channel bottom on that side and normally covered thereby as indicated on the other side, after the flap is cemented down. The fastening may be exposed or concealed depending on the wishes of the manufacturer. In the longitudinal section in Fig. 8 I have endeavored to indicate the relation of driven fastenings, such.

as In, indicated as having been clinched, headed or otherwise fixed deep in the shank piece 4, which is sustained against the metal plate 6 of the last. As shown in Fig. 9 they are disposed laterally of the center metal strip or reinforcement 5 of the shank piece. Such fastenings, therefore, form what is essentially an encasement of the metal shank piece between the leather instep portion of the sole and the fibre cover portion of the shank which is thereby prevented from working through to the inner surface of the shoe and the wearers foot.

The materials suggested are merely those of practical convenience and economy, it only being necessary or desirable that the material of the shank piece be capable of receiving and holding the clinch or other upset of the driven fastening so that in spite of subsequent strains when the shoe is worn in walking, these fastenings will not pull loose or allow the shank piece to drop away or work down or bulge or break through at the ball of the foot, as has often been the case in earlier structures.

While I have shown and described a shank piece of conventional type as popular and well understood by shoemakers, yet my concept is inclusive of any shoe shank area capable of being trussed by any kind of fastenings driven from.

the exterior or bottom side of the shoe to any depth or through any thickness of material sufficient to hold it. The metal bottomed last is only a simple illustrative form or expedient, but constitutes no part of any of the stapling, nailing or pegging machines which may be used to drive a fastening from the outside of a turn sole through the intervening materials and fastening into the shank cover.

Furthermore, the upper and its lining being securely attached to and sustained by the shank piece as a buttress at the shank portion do not sag or given way or separate from the shank piece as in the ordinary turned shoe under its leverage on the rear part of the shoe in actual wear.

My shoes, as above indicated, may be heeled and otherwise finished in the usual manner and without interference with usual factory practice and procedure.

Having now described and illustrated my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in the method of making a turned shoe, comprising attaching to the bottom area of the first last a prepared sole fitted on one side for stitching, working an inside out upper over said last and stitching it to said sole, withdrawing the stitched upper and sole from the first last and turning them right side out, temporarily attaching a reinforced shank piece to the sole inside the shoe, placing the shoe on a second last, and uniting said shank piece to the shoe structure by a series of metal fasteners driven from the outside of the sole through the shank piece and clinched on the upper surface thereof whereby said shank piece and sole are united as an arch truss structure rigidlyspanning the rear of the shoe from heel seat to ball.

2. That improvement in the method of making a turned shoe, comprising attaching to the sole area of the first last a prepared sole fitted on one side for stitching, applying to the last an upper of a turned shoe structure wrong side out and stitching it to said sole, withdrawing the stitched upper and sole from the first last and turning it right side out, placing the shoe on a second last with a reinforced shank piece between the sole and said last, and uniting the margins of said shank piece to the shoe structure by a series of fasteners driven from the outside of the sole through the shank piece and upset on the upper surface thereof by contact with the last bottom whereby said shank piece and sole are united as an arched structure rigidly spanning the rear of the shoe from heel seat to ball.

3. A method of making turned shoes, which comprises, securing a sole to the bottom of a last, lasting an inside-out upper to said sole, stitching said upper to said sole from breast to breast, turning the sewed shoe, relasting the sewed shoe with a shank piece and shank stiffener between the sole and the last, and driving a series of fasteners along each side of the shank portion of the sole and into the shank piece, thereby enclosing the shank stiffener and forming a unitary rigid arch in the shank portion of the shoe.

GERALD R. BABB.

Images