US2142120A - Crepe thread and fabric containing artificial filaments - Google Patents

Crepe thread and fabric containing artificial filaments Download PDF

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US2142120A
US2142120A US4302A US430235A US2142120A US 2142120 A US2142120 A US 2142120A US 4302 A US4302 A US 4302A US 430235 A US430235 A US 430235A US 2142120 A US2142120 A US 2142120A
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threads
crepe
cellulose acetate
cellulose
production
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US4302A
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Dreyfus Henry
Moncrieff Robert Wighton
Menzer Sidney James
Eccles Thomas
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Celanese Corp
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Celanese Corp
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
    • D06M11/385Saponification of cellulose-acetate

Definitions

  • crepe fabrics in an analogous l manner by the use of threads containing artificial filaments has, however, been accompanied by dif- .ficulties in various directions, particularlyas regards'tbe strength and appearance of the fab-,
  • Such stretched threads may be of a cellu- 2 losic character, or they may consist of organic derivatives of cellulose, for example cellulose acetate or other organic cellulose esters such as cellulose formate, propionate, butyrate, and oxyethyl cellulose acetate, and cellulose ethers such so as ethyl and benzyl cellulose,
  • cellulose acetate threads may be employed which have been stretched to 120, 130, 150, 200, 300, 500% or more of their original length, for example by subjecting. them to the action of softening agents such as acetone, or
  • cellulose acetate threads may with advantage be stretched by about 30% of their original length in the presence of formaldehyde.
  • cellulose deriva- 4'5 tive threads which have been produced by wet spinning operations in which a high degree of stretch is applied to the extruded filaments during coagulation.
  • it should be such as to give them a tenacity of at least 2 grams per denier, and preferably more, e. g. 3, 4, or more grams per denier.
  • cellulose derivative threads stretched as llabove described have a strength that is of value when the threads are subjected to the high degree of twisting necessary for the production of But apart from the possibility'of stronger crepe threads and fabrics being pro,- 'duced; it is also found that considerable im- 5 Movement in crepe effect results from the use of such threads, there being obtained a fine, well-marked crepe eilect similar to that ordinarily obtained by the use of natural silk crepe threads.
  • the threads to be stretched may have normal or bright lustre, or they may be threads having areduced or subdued lustre. For example, where the crepe threads are desired to have a dull appearance, the threads to be treated may with is advantage contain a certain amount of pigment,
  • cellulose acetate threads containing, e. g. in the proportions above indicated, antimony oxide, stannic oxide, or titanium oxide may be employed according to the invention.
  • the cellulose derivative threads may with advantage be formed from cellulose derivatives of high viscosity characteristics; for example there may be employed cellulose acetate or other cellulose esters as described in U. -S. Patent No. 1,708,787.
  • the cellulose acetate should have a viscosity of at least and preferably exceeding 50, for example of the order of 75, 100,150, or even 200 or more as measured by comparing theviscosity'of a 6% solution of the cellulose acetate in acetone with that of glycerine taken as a standard of 100.
  • the threads may then be subjected to a shrinking treatment with the object of restoring in part at least a loss of extensibility resulting from the stretching operation.
  • the filaments contained in the threads may m be continuous or discontinuous in character.
  • the stretched threads employed according to theinvention may be of a cellulosic character, e. g. viscose and nitrocellulose threads.
  • Particularly useful threads are those consisting of regenerated cellulose produced by eifecting saponification of cellulose acetate or other cellulose ester threads which have undergone a stretching treatment as above described.
  • Such saponification' may be complete or only to partial.
  • the saponification may be superficial, i. e. the materials may comprise a superficial layer consisting substantially of cellulose or of esters of cellulose of low acyl content, and a core of substantially materials in which saponification has extendedconsiderably below the surface or even throughout the whole section of the material.
  • the saponification may be of a very low order, for example sufficient to produce a loss in weight of 5% or even less. Specially valuable results are obtainable by employing materials which have been sapcnified. so as to effect a loss of weight of between 5 and 20%, and particularly between 8 and 12%. Products of this type in which the saponiflcation extends considerably below the surface or throughout the whole of the material are specially recommended. On the other hand, saponificationmay beof a much higher order, involving a loss of weight of 30, 40 or even 50% or more, according to the ester content of the initial material, up to complete saponification.
  • the saponified materials may acquirean ailinity for cotton dyestuffs by the saponiflcation treatment which may, or may not, involve loss of affinity for cellulose ester dyes, for example dyes of the dispersed insoluble type. It has been found of particular advantage in connection with cellulose acetate to carry the saponification to such an extent that the material is insoluble in acetone but yet retains a relatively high acetyl content.
  • the stretched cellulose ester threads which have been completely or partially saponified may consist of materials of high viscosity characteristics or of materials having normal viscosities.
  • the degree of twist applied to the threads according to the invention may vary within wide limits; for example twist from 45 to '75 or more turns. per inch may be applied, it being underfstood'that in generalthe finer the thread the 7 higher the degree of twist required.
  • degree of twist desirable in anyparticular'case depends upon a'number of other ctors, including the precise effects required, thf niaterlalof the filaments, and the fineness of thegfllaments in the threads.
  • Thread twisted in this way has a final strength considerably higher than that obtained by twisting untreated thread.
  • the tension maintained during twisting may be such as under the action of the applied steam to stretch the thread still further and overcome in part at least the tendency of the thread to increase in denier during twisting. However, even if the twist is allowed to give a denierincrease, higher final tenacitles are obtained.
  • the improved crepe threads according to the invention may be applied in any desired manner in the weaving of crepe fabrics either in the weft or warp or both and with any suitable disposition as regards threads having leftand righthand twists, as for example leftand right-hand twists alternating singly or in pairs in the weft.
  • the threads may also be used otherwise than in woven fabrics; for example, they may be knitted.
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate to give them a tenacity of at least 2 grammes per denier, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate to give them a tenacity of at least 3 grammes per denier, saponifying the threads so as to effect a loss of weight of between 5 and 20% of the cellulose acetate, and thereafter twisting the threads tos. high degree.
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose derivative threads in the presence of'an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads. and thereafter twisting thethreads to a'high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted, f f
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of an organic softening
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of 'an organic softening agent for the cellulose-acetate to give them a tenacity of at least 3 grammes per denier, saponifying the threads so as to efiect a loss of weight of between 5 and 20% of the cellulose acetate, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted.
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of dioxane and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of formaldehyde and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads by about 30% of their original length in the presence of formaldehyde and thereafter twisting the threads to ,a high degree.
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose ester threads in the presence of an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads, at least partially saponifying the threads, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
  • crepe threads which comprises stretching threads of cellulose esters of high viscosity characteristics in the presence of an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads, at least partially saponifying the threads, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
  • Process for the production of crepe threads which comprises stretching threads of cellulose acetate of high viscosity characteristics in the presence of an organic softening agent for cellulose acetate, at least partially saponifying the threads, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
  • Process for the production of crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads uniformly along their length and until a permanent elongation is attained in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate to give them a tenacity of at least 2 grams per denier and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
  • Process for the production of crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads uniformly along their length and until a permanent elongation is attained in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate, saponifying the threads so as to effect a loss of weight between 5 and 20% of the cellulose acetate and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
  • Process for the production of crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose derivative threads uniformly along their length and until a permanent elongation is attained in the presence of an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted.
  • Process for the production of crepe threads which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads uniformly along their length and until a permanent elongation is attained in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate to give the threads a tenacity of at least 3 grams per denier, saponifying the threads so as to effect a loss of weight ofbetween 5 and 20% of the cellulose acetate and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Description

Patented Jan. 3,1939.
CREPE THREAD AND FABRIC CONTAINING ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS Henry Dreyfus, London, and Robert Wighton Moncriefl, Sidney James Menaer and Thomas,
Eccles, Spondon, near Derby, England, assignors to Celanese Corporation of America, a cor-' poration of Delaware No Dra wing. Application January 31, 1935, Serial No. 4,302. In Great Britain February 8, 1934 This invention relates to the manufacture of crepe threads and fabrics, and has for its particular object the production of crepe fabrics of I an improved character from threads containing 5 artificial filaments.
Fabrics exhibiting crepe eilects have long been obtained by employing in their construction highly twisted threads of natural silk in the gummed state," the crepe eflects appearing moreparticui larly when the fabric so formed is subjected to an aqueous scouring treatment. The fabrics obtained by this process are highly valued on account oftheir pleasing appearance and handle.
The production of crepe fabrics in an analogous l manner by the use of threads containing artificial filaments has, however, been accompanied by dif- .ficulties in various directions, particularlyas regards'tbe strength and appearance of the fab-,
rics. 2n It has now been found that considerable improvement can'be eil'ected by employing crepe threads containing artificial filaments which have been stretched, i. e. given a permanent elongation. Such stretched threads may be of a cellu- 2 losic character, or they may consist of organic derivatives of cellulose, for example cellulose acetate or other organic cellulose esters such as cellulose formate, propionate, butyrate, and oxyethyl cellulose acetate, and cellulose ethers such so as ethyl and benzyl cellulose,
For example, cellulose acetate threads may be employed which have been stretched to 120, 130, 150, 200, 300, 500% or more of their original length, for example by subjecting. them to the action of softening agents such as acetone, or
ethylene methylene ethendioxaneand similar .cyclic ethers, ethyl or methyl alcohol, or formaldehyde, diluted, if desired, e. g. with water, to bring them into a condition to undergo stretching of the order mentioned. Thus, cellulose acetate threads may with advantage be stretched by about 30% of their original length in the presence of formaldehyde.
there may be employed cellulose deriva- 4'5 tive threads which have been produced by wet spinning operations in which a high degree of stretch is applied to the extruded filaments during coagulation. Whatever the method employed to stretch the 50 threads, it should be such as to give them a tenacity of at least 2 grams per denier, and preferably more, e. g. 3, 4, or more grams per denier.
Besides considerable fineness of filament denier, cellulose derivative threads stretched as llabove described have a strength that is of value when the threads are subjected to the high degree of twisting necessary for the production of But apart from the possibility'of stronger crepe threads and fabrics being pro,- 'duced; it is also found that considerable im- 5 Movement in crepe effect results from the use of such threads, there being obtained a fine, well-marked crepe eilect similar to that ordinarily obtained by the use of natural silk crepe threads. s 10 The threads to be stretched may have normal or bright lustre, or they may be threads having areduced or subdued lustre. For example, where the crepe threads are desired to have a dull appearance, the threads to be treated may with is advantage contain a certain amount of pigment,
e. g, 1, 2 or 3% of their weight, in accordance with the dullness required. Thus, cellulose acetate threads containing, e. g. in the proportions above indicated, antimony oxide, stannic oxide, or titanium oxide may be employed according to the invention.
The cellulose derivative threads may with advantage be formed from cellulose derivatives of high viscosity characteristics; for example there may be employed cellulose acetate or other cellulose esters as described in U. -S. Patent No. 1,708,787. Thus the cellulose acetate should have a viscosity of at least and preferably exceeding 50, for example of the order of 75, 100,150, or even 200 or more as measured by comparing theviscosity'of a 6% solution of the cellulose acetate in acetone with that of glycerine taken as a standard of 100.
After the stretching treatment the threads may then be subjected to a shrinking treatment with the object of restoring in part at least a loss of extensibility resulting from the stretching operation.
The filaments contained in the threads may m be continuous or discontinuous in character.
As above stated the stretched threads employed according to theinvention may be of a cellulosic character, e. g. viscose and nitrocellulose threads. Particularly useful threads are those consisting of regenerated cellulose produced by eifecting saponification of cellulose acetate or other cellulose ester threads which have undergone a stretching treatment as above described. Such saponification' may be complete or only to partial. In partially saponified materials the saponification may be superficial, i. e. the materials may comprise a superficial layer consisting substantially of cellulose or of esters of cellulose of low acyl content, and a core of substantially materials in which saponification has extendedconsiderably below the surface or even throughout the whole section of the material. The saponification may be of a very low order, for example sufficient to produce a loss in weight of 5% or even less. Specially valuable results are obtainable by employing materials which have been sapcnified. so as to effect a loss of weight of between 5 and 20%, and particularly between 8 and 12%. Products of this type in which the saponiflcation extends considerably below the surface or throughout the whole of the material are specially recommended. On the other hand, saponificationmay beof a much higher order, involving a loss of weight of 30, 40 or even 50% or more, according to the ester content of the initial material, up to complete saponification.
The saponified materials may acquirean ailinity for cotton dyestuffs by the saponiflcation treatment which may, or may not, involve loss of affinity for cellulose ester dyes, for example dyes of the dispersed insoluble type. It has been found of particular advantage in connection with cellulose acetate to carry the saponification to such an extent that the material is insoluble in acetone but yet retains a relatively high acetyl content.
The stretched cellulose ester threads which have been completely or partially saponified may consist of materials of high viscosity characteristics or of materials having normal viscosities.
The degree of twist applied to the threads according to the invention may vary within wide limits; for example twist from 45 to '75 or more turns. per inch may be applied, it being underfstood'that in generalthe finer the thread the 7 higher the degree of twist required. Apart from ."'th is fthe, degree of twist desirable in anyparticular'case depends upon a'number of other ctors, including the precise effects required, thf niaterlalof the filaments, and the fineness of thegfllaments in the threads. It is to, be-pointed ltpi'n this connection that the finenessof'the individual fllamentsin the threads-resulting from s ofi considerable advantage in" bringing out a "oodfcrepe effect on the final fabric, as well as ding itself to the production ;of fabric having softshandle.
They-twist is conveniently applied by means of anapparatus in which the thread is drawn oil! over the end of a rotating packagekto a guide substantially in line with the axis of the package, thereupon led to stake-up device collecting the yarn at a predetermined speed which'jdetermlne's 'in accordance with the rate of rotation rotating bobbin may be provided-'witha fiye'rto guide the thread from the package, or with advantagethetwisting device may be provided with means'on an extension of 'the spindle projecting beyond the package to preventtwist which has been inserted running-back to the yarn on the 5 package, as described in-U. 8. Patent No. 1,784,581.
tli extension effected in the stretchingioperation of the package the degree of twist applied. The
During twisting the thread may' be subjected to the action of wet steam, as by passing it through a steam box disposed between the guide above the spindle and the take-up package. Thread twisted in this way has a final strength considerably higher than that obtained by twisting untreated thread. The tension maintained during twisting may be such as under the action of the applied steam to stretch the thread still further and overcome in part at least the tendency of the thread to increase in denier during twisting. However, even if the twist is allowed to give a denierincrease, higher final tenacitles are obtained.
The improved crepe threads according to the invention may be applied in any desired manner in the weaving of crepe fabrics either in the weft or warp or both and with any suitable disposition as regards threads having leftand righthand twists, as for example leftand right-hand twists alternating singly or in pairs in the weft. The threads may also be used otherwise than in woven fabrics; for example, they may be knitted.
What we claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:-
1. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose derivative threads in the presence of an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
2. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
3. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate to give them a tenacity of at least 2 grammes per denier, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
4. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate to give them a tenacity of at least 3 grammes per denier, saponifying the threads so as to effect a loss of weight of between 5 and 20% of the cellulose acetate, and thereafter twisting the threads tos. high degree.
5. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose derivative threads in the presence of'an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads. and thereafter twisting thethreads to a'high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted, f f
j 6. Process forthe production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of an organic softening,
agent forthe cellulose acetate and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted.. T .I
7. Process for the'production of crepe threads,
which comprises stretching, cellulose acetate threads in the presence of an orgs. nic softening agent for the cellulose-'acetate todfgive them a tenacity of at least 2 grammes; per denier; and
thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted.
8. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of 'an organic softening agent for the cellulose-acetate to give them a tenacity of at least 3 grammes per denier, saponifying the threads so as to efiect a loss of weight of between 5 and 20% of the cellulose acetate, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted.
9. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threadsin the presence of acetone and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
10. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of dioxane and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
11. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads in the presence of formaldehyde and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
12. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads by about 30% of their original length in the presence of formaldehyde and thereafter twisting the threads to ,a high degree.
13. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose ester threads in the presence of an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads, at least partially saponifying the threads, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
14. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching threads of cellulose esters of high viscosity characteristics in the presence of an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads, at least partially saponifying the threads, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
15. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching threads of cellulose acetate of high viscosity characteristics in the presence of an organic softening agent for cellulose acetate, at least partially saponifying the threads, and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
16. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose derivative threads uniformly along their length and until a permanent elongation is attained in the presence of an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree. V
17. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads uniformly along their length and until a permanent elongation is attained in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate to give them a tenacity of at least 2 grams per denier and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
18. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads uniformly along their length and until a permanent elongation is attained in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate, saponifying the threads so as to effect a loss of weight between 5 and 20% of the cellulose acetate and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree.
19. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose derivative threads uniformly along their length and until a permanent elongation is attained in the presence of an organic softening agent for the substance of the threads and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted.
20. Process for the production of crepe threads, which comprises stretching cellulose acetate threads uniformly along their length and until a permanent elongation is attained in the presence of an organic softening agent for the cellulose acetate to give the threads a tenacity of at least 3 grams per denier, saponifying the threads so as to effect a loss of weight ofbetween 5 and 20% of the cellulose acetate and thereafter twisting the threads to a high degree while applying steam thereto at the point where the twist is inserted.
HENRY DREYFUS. ROBERT WIGHTON MONCRIEFF.
SIDNEY JAMES MENZER. THOMAS ECCLES.
US4302A 1934-02-08 1935-01-31 Crepe thread and fabric containing artificial filaments Expired - Lifetime US2142120A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2468906A (en) * 1945-01-04 1949-05-03 Celanese Corp Precision measuring instrument having a thread for a motion transmission link

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2468906A (en) * 1945-01-04 1949-05-03 Celanese Corp Precision measuring instrument having a thread for a motion transmission link

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