US2141363A - Jewelry setting - Google Patents

Jewelry setting Download PDF

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Publication number
US2141363A
US2141363A US190094A US19009438A US2141363A US 2141363 A US2141363 A US 2141363A US 190094 A US190094 A US 190094A US 19009438 A US19009438 A US 19009438A US 2141363 A US2141363 A US 2141363A
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
cup
stone
tongue
jewelry
setting
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US190094A
Inventor
Rigollet Louis
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
RUBEL BROTHERS Ltd
Original Assignee
RUBEL BROTHERS Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by RUBEL BROTHERS Ltd filed Critical RUBEL BROTHERS Ltd
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US2141363A publication Critical patent/US2141363A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49588—Jewelry or locket making
    • Y10T29/4959—Human adornment device making
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49826—Assembling or joining
    • Y10T29/49863—Assembling or joining with prestressing of part
    • Y10T29/49876—Assembling or joining with prestressing of part by snap fit
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49826—Assembling or joining
    • Y10T29/49908—Joining by deforming
    • Y10T29/49915—Overedge assembling of seated part
    • Y10T29/4992—Overedge assembling of seated part by flaring inserted cup or tube end
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49826—Assembling or joining
    • Y10T29/49908—Joining by deforming
    • Y10T29/49938—Radially expanding part in cavity, aperture, or hollow body
    • Y10T29/4994—Radially expanding internal tube

Definitions

  • My invention relates to an improved method of invisibly setting precious stones and other jewelry and is characterized by the use of a metal cup-like member provided with two or more oppositely disposed grips or tongues of which one at least is resilient and which engage in grooves, recesses or the like formed in the gem or stone beneath its head or widest part.
  • the cup-like member is applied to the mountings for gems and jewelry by soldering or welding the same to such mountings.
  • This soldering is efiected on the upper side of the mounting of the jewel and has sometimes an objection which is obviated in a further feature of the invention which consists in adding to the lower edge of the cup-like member, a neck, flange or the like by reason of which it is possible to securethis cuplike member with its stone, on the mounting of the jewelry by engaging the said flange in a hole provided in this mounting and riveting it therein.
  • Figure 1 is a plan of the construction of the cup according to the invention with the stone itself removed;
  • Fig. 2 is a cross section of the cup showing a stone in. position; and
  • Fig. 3 is an end view of same;
  • Fig. 4 is a cross section of the cuplike member and its stone in a further form of construction; and
  • Fig. 5 shows an end view corre- 30 sponding to Fig. 4.
  • This new method of setting is carried into effect according to Figs. 1 to 3 by mounting a stone l in a metal cup-like member 2 which latter comprises within its upper edge, a tongue, spur, grip, clamp or the like 3 adaptedto engage in a corresponding recess, groove, notch or the like 4 formed in the stone as stated hereinabove.
  • the cup-like member 2 On that part of its periphery opposite to the claw or the like 3, the cup-like member 2 is open and the gap thus formed is filled by a thin strip or strips 5-6 which over a portion 5 of its length, towards the base, is soldered to the corresponding edges of the cup or cap.
  • These soldered parts stop at the small holes I which are made for the purpose of limiting them strictly, and above, that is to say near the recessed edge of the cup'2, the said thin strip remains free in such a manner that it forms a semi-flexible tongue or the like 6 at the free end of which is formed, internally, a
  • the stone is thus securely set without any part of its exposed and visible external surface being hidden by metal parts, the setting being thus completely invisible.
  • the cup-like member 2 is in addition provided, at its base with a neck, flange, collar or the like it extending over the whole periphery and which is engaged in a hole provided for this purpose in the body H of the jewel which can thus be riveted at [2 on the other side.
  • connection could be ensured by enlarging the collar ill in its housing or again by soldering the rim of the collar.
  • the collar Ill need not be continued over the Whole surface of the cup-line member; it could be cut or slit at several places along its surface. It might have several claws or the like which would be secured in the body of the jewel by riveting or soldering as explained hereinabove.
  • Means for setting precious stones and other jewelry comprising a cup to receive the stone, recesses in the stone, a rigid tongue on one side of the cup, a resilient tongue on the other side of the cup adapted to spring into the other recess in the stone and means for fixing said resilient tongue in position.
  • Means for setting precious stones and other jewelry comprising a cup to receive the stone, recesses in the stone, a rigid tongue on one edge of the cup engaging one recess in the stone, a gap in the other side of the cup, a strip member filling in said gap, means for resiliently fixing said strip member, a tongue carried by said strip member springing into the other recess of the stone, and means for limiting movement of said strip member.
  • Means for setting precious stones and other jewelry as claimed in claim 1 including a neck for the cup, a hole in the base of the cup to receive said neck which passes therethrough and means for fixing said neck to said cup.

Description

W. 27, 1938. L. RIGOLLET 2,141,363
JEWELRY SETTING v Filed Feb. 11, 1938 22 9 if/504457: 5/" l zagziv Patented Dec. 27, 1938 JEWELRY SETTING Louis Rigollet, Paris, France, assignor to Rubel Brothers Limited,
London, England Application February 11, 1938, Serial No. 190,094 In Great Britain February 22,193?
3 Claims.
My invention relates to an improved method of invisibly setting precious stones and other jewelry and is characterized by the use of a metal cup-like member provided with two or more oppositely disposed grips or tongues of which one at least is resilient and which engage in grooves, recesses or the like formed in the gem or stone beneath its head or widest part.
The cup-like member is applied to the mountings for gems and jewelry by soldering or welding the same to such mountings. This soldering is efiected on the upper side of the mounting of the jewel and has sometimes an objection which is obviated in a further feature of the invention which consists in adding to the lower edge of the cup-like member, a neck, flange or the like by reason of which it is possible to securethis cuplike member with its stone, on the mounting of the jewelry by engaging the said flange in a hole provided in this mounting and riveting it therein.
The invention is illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawing in which:
, Figure 1 is a plan of the construction of the cup according to the invention with the stone itself removed; Fig. 2 is a cross section of the cup showing a stone in. position; and Fig. 3 is an end view of same; Fig. 4 is a cross section of the cuplike member and its stone in a further form of construction; and Fig. 5 shows an end view corre- 30 sponding to Fig. 4.
This new method of setting is carried into effect according to Figs. 1 to 3 by mounting a stone l in a metal cup-like member 2 which latter comprises within its upper edge, a tongue, spur, grip, clamp or the like 3 adaptedto engage in a corresponding recess, groove, notch or the like 4 formed in the stone as stated hereinabove.
On that part of its periphery opposite to the claw or the like 3, the cup-like member 2 is open and the gap thus formed is filled by a thin strip or strips 5-6 which over a portion 5 of its length, towards the base, is soldered to the corresponding edges of the cup or cap. These soldered parts stop at the small holes I which are made for the purpose of limiting them strictly, and above, that is to say near the recessed edge of the cup'2, the said thin strip remains free in such a manner that it forms a semi-flexible tongue or the like 6 at the free end of which is formed, internally, a
the like 6, it will sufiice, after having engaged the stationary tongue 3 in the recess 4 of the stone by holding it in a slightly inclined position, to lower that on the other side by moving the tongue 6 away, by its resiliency, until the nose 8 of the latterdrops into the recess 9 of the stone. The tongue 6, then being released, re-assumes its initial position, the nose 8 engaging in the recess 9 of the stone. It is thereafter possible to ensure the tightening action on thestone by causing a pressure on the tongue 6 by a special tool.
The stone is thus securely set without any part of its exposed and visible external surface being hidden by metal parts, the setting being thus completely invisible.
According to the construction shown in Figs. 4 and 5 the cup-like member 2 is in addition provided, at its base with a neck, flange, collar or the like it extending over the whole periphery and which is engaged in a hole provided for this purpose in the body H of the jewel which can thus be riveted at [2 on the other side.
Instead of riveting, the connection could be ensured by enlarging the collar ill in its housing or again by soldering the rim of the collar.
The collar Ill need not be continued over the Whole surface of the cup-line member; it could be cut or slit at several places along its surface. It might have several claws or the like which would be secured in the body of the jewel by riveting or soldering as explained hereinabove.
I claim:
1. Means for setting precious stones and other jewelry comprising a cup to receive the stone, recesses in the stone, a rigid tongue on one side of the cup, a resilient tongue on the other side of the cup adapted to spring into the other recess in the stone and means for fixing said resilient tongue in position. 2. Means for setting precious stones and other jewelry comprising a cup to receive the stone, recesses in the stone, a rigid tongue on one edge of the cup engaging one recess in the stone, a gap in the other side of the cup, a strip member filling in said gap, means for resiliently fixing said strip member, a tongue carried by said strip member springing into the other recess of the stone, and means for limiting movement of said strip member.
3. Means for setting precious stones and other jewelry as claimed in claim 1 including a neck for the cup, a hole in the base of the cup to receive said neck which passes therethrough and means for fixing said neck to said cup.
LOUIS RIGOLLET.
US190094A 1937-02-22 1938-02-11 Jewelry setting Expired - Lifetime US2141363A (en)

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Cited By (27)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4738240A (en) * 1985-04-19 1988-04-19 Rene Liotaud Process for cutting a diamond to provide an invisible mounting
US4800738A (en) * 1986-01-17 1989-01-31 Georg Bunz Gem setting
US4837960A (en) * 1985-05-17 1989-06-13 Kaepa, Inc. Article with identifying device
US5070586A (en) * 1989-10-16 1991-12-10 D. Swarovski & Co. Compound of gems and a method of producing it
US5072601A (en) * 1990-09-18 1991-12-17 Christopher Slowinski Diamond setting
US5115649A (en) * 1991-06-10 1992-05-26 Ambar Diamonds, Inc. Invisible setting for round diamonds
US5177984A (en) * 1991-01-16 1993-01-12 Aldo Arata Concane surface hollowed-bottom bezel for flush-precious stones
US5437167A (en) * 1994-05-12 1995-08-01 Ambar; Betzalel Invisible setting for round diamond stone
US6026660A (en) * 1997-05-13 2000-02-22 Gramercy Enterprises Corp. Jewelry setting
US6065308A (en) * 1996-06-03 2000-05-23 Daniel H. Piat Flexible metal band
US6067818A (en) * 1997-07-04 2000-05-30 D. Swarovski & Co. Mount for a gem
US6105393A (en) * 1999-09-10 2000-08-22 Takessian; Karabet Gem stone setting for articles of jewelry
US6112552A (en) * 1999-01-12 2000-09-05 Michael Anthony Jewelers, Inc. Gemstone setting and method of using
USD433186S (en) * 1998-10-06 2000-10-31 Lecrone Vicki Hair accessory device
WO2002041724A1 (en) * 2000-11-22 2002-05-30 Stuckey Diamonds, Inc. Improved princess cut invisible stone setting
US6564583B2 (en) 2001-04-24 2003-05-20 Martin Gruber Gruber Jewelry with girdle-grooved stone
US6668584B1 (en) * 2002-05-07 2003-12-30 Giuliano Tosti Housing for setting a stone in jewelry
US20050005639A1 (en) * 2003-06-27 2005-01-13 Simen Shagalov Precious stone setting
US20080016912A1 (en) * 2006-05-24 2008-01-24 Rafael Gutierrez Gemstone Setting Arrangement and Method for Setting a Gemstone
US20110302959A1 (en) * 2010-06-11 2011-12-15 Adam Wcislo Precious stone setting
US8096146B1 (en) * 2008-03-13 2012-01-17 Jewelex New York, Ltd. Apparatus to create a jewelry setting for precious stones where the stones appear to float in the setting
US20130291587A1 (en) * 2012-05-02 2013-11-07 Grand Rainbow International Limited Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same
US20140075990A1 (en) * 2012-09-20 2014-03-20 Michiel BOTHA Shape Memory Alloy Mounting Collet With Grooved Gemstone
US20160270494A1 (en) * 2013-10-15 2016-09-22 Grand Rainbow International Limited Invisible setting and methods for effecting same
US9801434B2 (en) 2012-05-02 2017-10-31 Grand Rainbow International Limited Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same
US11357296B2 (en) * 2018-03-21 2022-06-14 Hamard Vitau Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin
US11717065B2 (en) 2019-12-17 2023-08-08 Fine Jewellery Mfg Ltd. Gemstone settings and setting methods

Cited By (32)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4738240A (en) * 1985-04-19 1988-04-19 Rene Liotaud Process for cutting a diamond to provide an invisible mounting
US4837960A (en) * 1985-05-17 1989-06-13 Kaepa, Inc. Article with identifying device
US4800738A (en) * 1986-01-17 1989-01-31 Georg Bunz Gem setting
US5070586A (en) * 1989-10-16 1991-12-10 D. Swarovski & Co. Compound of gems and a method of producing it
US5072601A (en) * 1990-09-18 1991-12-17 Christopher Slowinski Diamond setting
US5177984A (en) * 1991-01-16 1993-01-12 Aldo Arata Concane surface hollowed-bottom bezel for flush-precious stones
US5115649A (en) * 1991-06-10 1992-05-26 Ambar Diamonds, Inc. Invisible setting for round diamonds
US5437167A (en) * 1994-05-12 1995-08-01 Ambar; Betzalel Invisible setting for round diamond stone
US6065308A (en) * 1996-06-03 2000-05-23 Daniel H. Piat Flexible metal band
US6026660A (en) * 1997-05-13 2000-02-22 Gramercy Enterprises Corp. Jewelry setting
US6067818A (en) * 1997-07-04 2000-05-30 D. Swarovski & Co. Mount for a gem
USD433186S (en) * 1998-10-06 2000-10-31 Lecrone Vicki Hair accessory device
US6112552A (en) * 1999-01-12 2000-09-05 Michael Anthony Jewelers, Inc. Gemstone setting and method of using
US6105393A (en) * 1999-09-10 2000-08-22 Takessian; Karabet Gem stone setting for articles of jewelry
WO2002041724A1 (en) * 2000-11-22 2002-05-30 Stuckey Diamonds, Inc. Improved princess cut invisible stone setting
US6564583B2 (en) 2001-04-24 2003-05-20 Martin Gruber Gruber Jewelry with girdle-grooved stone
US6668584B1 (en) * 2002-05-07 2003-12-30 Giuliano Tosti Housing for setting a stone in jewelry
US20050005639A1 (en) * 2003-06-27 2005-01-13 Simen Shagalov Precious stone setting
US20080016912A1 (en) * 2006-05-24 2008-01-24 Rafael Gutierrez Gemstone Setting Arrangement and Method for Setting a Gemstone
US8096146B1 (en) * 2008-03-13 2012-01-17 Jewelex New York, Ltd. Apparatus to create a jewelry setting for precious stones where the stones appear to float in the setting
US20110302959A1 (en) * 2010-06-11 2011-12-15 Adam Wcislo Precious stone setting
US9402450B2 (en) * 2012-05-02 2016-08-02 Grand Rainbow International Limited Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same
JP2015515876A (en) * 2012-05-02 2015-06-04 グランド レインボウ インターナショナル リミテッドＧｒａｎｄ Ｒａｉｎｂｏｗ Ｉｎｔｅｒｎａｔｉｏｎａｌ Ｌｉｍｉｔｅｄ Inconspicuous telescope and method and tool for producing it
EP2844100A4 (en) * 2012-05-02 2015-10-07 Grand Rainbow Internat Ltd Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same
US20130291587A1 (en) * 2012-05-02 2013-11-07 Grand Rainbow International Limited Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same
US9801434B2 (en) 2012-05-02 2017-10-31 Grand Rainbow International Limited Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same
US10238190B2 (en) 2012-05-02 2019-03-26 Grand Rainbow International Limited Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same
US20140075990A1 (en) * 2012-09-20 2014-03-20 Michiel BOTHA Shape Memory Alloy Mounting Collet With Grooved Gemstone
CN103653576A (en) * 2012-09-20 2014-03-26 米奇尔·博萨 Shape memory alloy mounting collet with grooved gemstone
US20160270494A1 (en) * 2013-10-15 2016-09-22 Grand Rainbow International Limited Invisible setting and methods for effecting same
US11357296B2 (en) * 2018-03-21 2022-06-14 Hamard Vitau Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin
US11717065B2 (en) 2019-12-17 2023-08-08 Fine Jewellery Mfg Ltd. Gemstone settings and setting methods

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