US2138431A - Lace fringe and method of manufacturing the same - Google Patents

Lace fringe and method of manufacturing the same Download PDF

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US2138431A
US2138431A US204939A US20493938A US2138431A US 2138431 A US2138431 A US 2138431A US 204939 A US204939 A US 204939A US 20493938 A US20493938 A US 20493938A US 2138431 A US2138431 A US 2138431A
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lace
drops
fringe
series
clothing
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US204939A
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Edgar F Stiner
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04DTRIMMINGS; RIBBONS, TAPES OR BANDS, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D04D5/00Fringes

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  • This invention relates to a method of manufacturing lace fringes; and to lace having a fringe as a part of the pattern, as a new article of manufacture.
  • fringes on lace fabrics have been manufactured separate from the fabrics, on machines other than lace making machines, and have thereafter been attached to the lace fabric by sewing.
  • the bullion fringe is one well known io form of fringe thus attached to lace fabrics.
  • This arrangement is unsatisfactory because it is impossible to match either the color or the texture of the fringe with that of the lace fabric; applying fringe to the fabric is an additional 15 operation requiring extra handling; and a certain amount of fringe is wasted because the length of the lace fabric is invariably different from that of the fringe.
  • One object of this invention is a new method of fabricating fringes on lace fabrics, particularly as applied to lace goods woven upon a Nottingham Lace Curtain Machine, Levers Machine, or the like.
  • Another object is a method of weaving a fringe, as for example a drop fringe, on a lace making machine.
  • Another object is to reduce the cost of manufacture of fringed lace fabrics by weaving the fringe as an integral part of the pattern of said fabric.
  • Another object is a fringe which will match the lace fabric in both color and texture.
  • Fig. 1 is a plan view of a fragment of lace edging showing the rst stage in the development of one form of my lace fringe.
  • Fig. 2 is a plan View of a fragment of another pattern of lace edging from which another emd bodiment of my lace fringe may be developed.
  • Fig. 3 is a plan view of a fragment of another pattern of lace edging from which still another embodiment of my lace fringe may be developed.
  • Fig. 4 is a plan view of a fragment of another pattern of lace edging showing the first stage in the development of a lace fringe.
  • Fig. 5 is a front View of the fragment of lace edging of Fig. 4 showing an intermediate stage in the development of a lace fringe.
  • Fig. 8 is a front view of the lace fringe developed from the lace edging of Fig. 5.
  • Fig. 7 is a vertical cross-section of the lace fringe taken along the line '1 -1 of Fig. 6.v
  • Fig. 8 is a plan view of a fragment of the lower corner of a lace curtain showing a lace edging developed from a modification of the weave of Fig. 2.
  • Fig. 9 is a rear view of the lace edging of Fig. 8 showing an intermediate stage in the development of the edging of Fig. 8 into a lace fringe.
  • Fig. 10 is a rear View of the lace edging of Fig. 9 in the next stage of its development into a lace fringe.
  • Fig. 11 is a rear view of the lace fringe developed from Figs. 8, 9, and l0.
  • Fig. l2 is a plan view of a fragment of another lace edging.
  • Fig. 13 is a rear view of the lace fringe developed from the fragment of lace edging of Fig. 12.
  • Fig. 14 is an enlarged plan view of another lace edging.
  • Fig. 15 is a front view of the lace fringe de-v veloped from the fragment of lace edging of i the drawings.
  • Fig. 1 The weave of Fig. 1 is made by withdrawing certain jacks or interceptors to form the clothing, and releasing certain other jacks or interceptors to make the openwork.
  • an upper horizontal band of clothing 3@ is pro-'- vided by withdrawing the jacks or interceptors and tying the spool or horizontal threads to the warp threads 2i! to 25 inclusive to form a clothed band Si).
  • the band of clothing 3i When the lace edging forms the marginal edge of a curtain the band of clothing 3i) may either be used or omitted as desired.
  • the drops indicated at bars A, C, E, G, etc. are formed by withdrawing certain jacks or'interceptors and tying the spool or horizontal threads 3l to warp threads 2Q and 2l to complete the clothed drop.
  • the spool or horizontal threads 33 are tied to warp threads 22-23, and spool or horizontal threads 35 to warp threads 24-25, to form a seriesof drops.
  • the openwork in bars B, D, F, etc., is made by releasing the corresponding jacks or interceptors.
  • the length of the drops A, C, E, etc. will vary according to the class of work and the desired length of finished fringe.
  • the lace edging may be finished olf in any preferred manner, as for example by weaving a lower band of clothing 4D, which band may be a repeat of the band 30, thereby forming a lace edging substantially ⁇ as shown in Fig. 1.
  • ' may form the marginal edge of a larger lpiece of lace as for example a lace curtain, lace panel, lace table cover, lace scarf, or other piece goods; or the lace edging may ⁇ be woven for sale as a separate article.
  • the bottom edge rof the 'lace edging may be finished off in any preferred manner to prevent unravelling.
  • unravelling may be prevented by (a) stitching or lockstitching the edge, or (b) by folding the lower band of clothi-ng 40 upon itself and stitching the formed fold; the edging (Fig.
  • vbe folded along the transverse medial line of the series of drops may then vbe folded along the transverse medial line of the series of drops, to bring the upper and lower half of each drop, into optical registry, to complete the fringe, which is then retained in .position by stitching the free edges together, which in the specific construction shown in Fig. l could be effected by stitching lower band 4l! to upper :band 3d.
  • vthe number of drops per running inch or per gauge in the finished fringe will be equal to one-half the number .of bars or points.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates a simple method of creating the optical illusion of appearing to form a finished fringe having twice as many drops as a fringe ,made ,as described in Fig. l. This is accomplished by weaving and tying the horizontal threads 3l, 33, 35 between their respective pairs of Warp threads Ztl-2l, 22-23, 24-25, for onehalf the length of the bars A, C, E, G, and leaving the upper khalf of bars B, D, F, openwork, as before, but in weaving the lower half of bars A to G etc., the jacks or interceptors corresponding to bars A, C, E, G, etc., are released, and the jacks or interceptors corresponding to bars B, D, F, etc., are withdrawn, thus moving the clothing over one bar and tying horizontal threads 42, 4d, 46 to their respective pairs of warp threads 2l--22, 23-24, 25-26, thus in effect staggering the lower drops relative to the upper drops and re-grouping the pairs of war
  • the lower drops may be reinforced at their lower extremity with a tie thread, which may be extended to form a lower band 40 as before.
  • the reinforcing tie thread, or the lower band 4B may be treated in any preferred manner to prevent unravelling, and the fringe may then be completed by folding the edging.
  • the fringe may be completed by stitching bands and 4!! together as before, thus forming a fringe present ing the optical illusion of twice as many drops per running inch (or per gauge) as 'the fringe of Fig. l.
  • the bars of clothing are formed in the same manner as the bars of clothing in Fig. 2, but the drops are woven by clothing two adjacent bars A-B, E-F, leaving two bars C-D, of openwo-rk therebetween.
  • the ⁇ clothing may be moved over two bars to form a drop two bars wide at C-D, with openwork two bars wide at A--B and E-F.
  • the tie thread 5D (Fig. 4) eX- tending horizontally across the bars A to G midway between the upper band of clothing 30 and the flower band of clothing 40, ties the drops together .and forms an unbroken bottom line for the fringe when folded as previously described (see Fig. 6).
  • the simple weaves disclosed in Figs, l, 2, and 3 are capable of endless variations.
  • drops of varying widths may be produced; for example, the upper drops may be made narrower than the lower drops, the lower drops may be made narrower than the upper drops, :or narrow drops alternating with wide drops in the upper half ⁇ and wide drops alternating with narrow drops in the lower half, may be produced.
  • the upper drops may be made narrower than the lower drops
  • the lower drops may be made narrower than the upper drops
  • :or narrow drops alternating with wide drops in the upper half ⁇ and wide drops alternating with narrow drops in the lower half may be produced.
  • Many variations will occur to those skilled in the art.
  • Figs. 4, 5, 6 and 7 illustrate successive steps vin the manufacture of Aa drop fringe.
  • the warp threads 2n to 29 inclusive After emerging from the upper clothing after the warp threads 2n to 29 inclusive have been clothed to form, by way of example, upper band 30, they may be drawn together and clothed to form an upper medallion 5l.
  • the warp threads Emerging from medallion 5l the warp threads are pillared or grouped together in pairs 2li-2l, 22-23, 2-4-25, 26-21, 28-29, etc., by means of their associated horizontal threads 3
  • a line of tie-threads 5B extends horizontally across the bars to tie all of the drops together in spaced relation, in this case to form a series of groups of pillared warp threads diverging from upper medallion 5
  • the groups of pillared warp threads are eX- tended to form a repeat pattern of the drops of the upper half, warp threads 2li-2l, 22-23, 24-25, 26-21, 28--29, etc., converging and being clothed to form a lower medallion 52, the warp threads thereafter diverging a short distance and may then be further extended in parallel to form a lower band of clothing 40.
  • lace edging is woven as a separate article both edges will require treatment to prevent unraveling; but if the lace edging forms the lower marginal edge of a larger piece of lace, such as a lace curtain or tablecloth, only the lower edge (in Fig. 3 the lower band of clothing 40) will require treatment to prevent unravelling.
  • Fig. 4 One such mode of treatment is shown in Fig. 4, where the lower clothing band 40 is folded upon itself (as along its transverse medial line 41) and the double ply thus formed (Fig. 5) is stitched by means of a line of stitches 48 traversing the lower band of clothing 40. The lace edging is now folded along the line of fold indicated by the horizontal line of threads 50, thus bringing the lower band stitched to form a fast edge (Fig. 10).
  • FIGS 8, 9, and 11 show successive stages in the development of the lace edging of Fig. 8 into the lace fringe of Fig. 11.
  • the pattern is a variation of that disclosed in Figure 2.
  • the warp threads to 29, may pass through an upper ⁇ band of clothing 39, then into the clothed groups (Z2-2l, 24-23, 25-25) of pillared warp threads with openwork (32, 34, 36) therebetween to form the upper drops 3l, 33, 35, etc., the clothing bars being thereafter moved over one bar and the warp threads (20 to 29, etc.) regrouped and then repillared to form a series of drops (42, 44, 4E, etc.) which are aligned with the openwork (32, 34, in the .upper half ofthe edging, but which drops (42, 44, 46, etc.) are staggered relative to the upper series of drops (3
  • a fast edge may be provided by folding the lace edging along a vertical line indicated at 54-54 (Fig. 9), and the hem thus formed may be stitched with one or more vertical lines of stitches traversing the lace edging and lace
  • the fringe is completed by folding the lace edging along the line of fold indicated by the zig-zag line of threads 53 to produce the fringe'shown in Figure 11, the fringe being held in place by one or more horizontal lines of stitches 56.
  • the lace edging of Figure 8 from which the lace fringe of Figure 11 is developed may consist of the marginal edge of a lace curtain or other lace piece goods 51 (Fig. 8) or it may be formed as a separate ornamental drop fringe adapted to be applied to the running edge of a section of lace or other goods.
  • Figures 12 and 13 show how another ornamental form of drop fringe (Fig. 13) may be developed from a lace edging (Fig. l2) forming the marginal edge of a larger section of lace 58.
  • -62-53, 64-65-6S-51 form a series of drops 10, 12, with openwork 13, 15, therebetween; the groups of pillared warp threads are then regrouped and re-pillared to form the drops 80, 82, which are positioned in alignment with the openwork 13, 15, and in staggered relation to the drops 19, 12.
  • the lower edge is reinforced either with a tiethread or with a band of clothing 40, which may be treated to prevent unravelling in any preferred manner, as by folding, stitching, lockstitching, etc.
  • said running edge may be folded along the line 99-90 (Fig. 12), and then stitched with a vertical line of stitches 9
  • the drops 80, 82, etc. are positioned in the spaces between the drops 19, 12, etc., formed by the openwork 13, 15, etc.
  • the lower band of clothing 40 is thus brought into optical registry with the upper band of clothing 30, said bands of clothing then being secured together by a horizontal line of stitches 93.
  • the zig-zag line of threads 92 formed by the regrouping and re-pillaring of the warp threads, acts as a line of tie-threads between the drops 10, 12, etc., and 80, 82, etc., thus providing an ornamental finish to the bottom edge of the curtain (Fig. 13)', and at the same time preventing the drops from becoming curled up or displaced.
  • the drops formed by the groups of pillared warp threads resemble elongated columns supporting medallions 94 and capitals 95.
  • Figs. 14 to 1'1 inclusive variously illustrate my invention showing how the drops may be ornamented with medallions and the' like.
  • a series of medallions Hit-i9@ are woven between groups of drops 3l-33-35-31, in the upper half of the lace edging; and the warp threads 29-4-21--22- 23-2fi-25-25-21-28-29 are regrouped and re-pillared as indicated by the Zig-zag line 92, by shifting the clothing one bar to form a series of drops Z-M-l etc., in the lower half of the lace edging in staggered relation to the drops 3
  • the outer edges may be stitched together along a line indicated vgenerally -by the clothed bands 35 and 40 by one or more transverse 4lines of stitches 93 (Fig. 15) to retain the fringe in proper position, the zig-zag line of threads 92 thus forming an ornamental finish for the bottom edge of the fringe and at the same time preventing the drops from becoming curled up or displaced.
  • the lace edging illustrated in Figs. lvand 17 maybe formed in like manner by weaving cloth ⁇ ing at a plurality of spaced points 19E- 193 to form a border for an open network having clothing woven therein in the .form of a series of medallions 132-192, simulating flowers or other objects in silhouette, tied to the warp threads 23-2 i-22-23-24-25-29-21-28-29 e t c.
  • the fringe (Fig. 17) is completed as previously described in any preferred manner.
  • the number of warp threads grouped or pillared together may be varied, dependent upon the form of drop desired; or the drops may be made in skeleton or without any clothing associated with the warp threads.
  • the drops may also be woven on the marginal edge of a curtain or lace article without employing the band of clothing 3B.
  • the length of the drops is determined by the length of the warp threads; and the final form of thedrops depends upon (a) the pillaring or unpillaring of the warp threads, (b) the withdrawal of certain of the jacks or interceptors thus permitting the spool or horizontal threads to weave clothed keffects or partially clothed effects between certain groups of warp threadaand (c) the release of certain jacks or interceptors to produce unclothed effects or openwork between certain Warp threads.
  • the ornamentation of the drops may be endlessly multiplied to produce an almost infinite variety of lace fringes formed on lace making machines, either as a part of a lace fabric, or as a separate lace edging adapted to be secured to piece goods by a stitching operation.
  • the fringe When the fringe is woven as an integral part of a lace article the fringe will conform to the color and texture of the article, and both waste in trimming and expense due to separate handling, are avoided.
  • a lace fringe embodying the invention may be woven as an integral part. of a valance, which valance may be a separate lace article or woven as an extension top for a lace curtain. In either case the fringe will hang from the lower edge of the valance when the latter is suspended in hung position.
  • the zig-zag lines indicated at 53 (Figs. 8 to 11) and 92 (Figs. 12 to 17), are formed 'by moving the clothing over one or more bars in the operation of staggering the lower drops relative to the upper drops and regrouping and repillaring the Warp threads.
  • the lace fringe or the lace article of which the fringe and at the same time preventing the loom or lace making machine as a unit of a repeat pattern, and each unit. is thereafter separated by cutting the warp threads between adjacent units.
  • the lace articles may either be woven lengthwise of the loom or across the width of the loom according to the character of the work and the effect desired, the expressions warp threads and spool or horizontal threads refer to the position of the various threads in the loom during weavingyand not to the direction of the threads in the lace goods when finished.
  • a lace fringe which includes extending the warp threads beyond the normal finishing edge of a lace fabric, clothing certain of said warp threads as thus extended for a sufficient distance to form a series of drops with openwork therebetween, and cutting said warp threads at the outer extremity of said drops.
  • a lace fringe which consists in weaving a series of clothed strips of lace of close structure alternating withv openwork of greater length than the ultimate length of the lace fringe, folding the lace along a line transverse the clothed strips to transform said strips into a series of loops constituting the fringe, and stitching the open ends of the elongated clothed strips together to retain the fringe in position and prevent its edge from unravelling.
  • a lace fringe which consists in weaving a series of elongated bars of lace of close structure alternating with openwork for a distance equal to twice the ultimate length of the lace fringe, folding the lace along the transverse medial line of the elongated bars to form a looped fringe, and stitching the free ends of the loops together to retain the fringe in position and prevent it from unravelling.
  • a lace fringe which consists in weaving clothing between a series of warp threads to form an upper transverse lace strip of relatively close weave, extending the clothing between spaced groups of said warp threads for a distance substantially equal to the ultimate length of the fringe to form a series of elongated lace drops of close structure alternating with openwork, joining the drops together in spaced relation, in like manner weaving a second series of elongated lace drops equal in length to said first series, joining the ends of the second series yof lace drops together in spaced relation to form a lower transverse lace strip of relatively close weave, treating said lower lace strip to prevent unravelling, folding the lace fabric along the line of jointure of the first and second series of lace drops to form the lace fringe and stitching the upper and lower transverse lace strips together.
  • a lace fringe which consists in weaving clothing between a series of warp threads to form an upper lace band of relatively close weave, extending the clothing between predetermined spaced groups of said warp threads for a distance substantially equal to the length of the finished fringe to form a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between said drops, re-grouping the warp threads into other spaced groups, extending the clothing between said spaced groups of warp threads as thus re-grouped for substantially the same distance as before to form a sec'- ond series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said second series of drops being in alignment with the openwork between said first series of drops and the openwork between said second series of drops being in alignment with the lace drops of said first series, reinforcing the ends of said second series of lace drops by tying their warp threads together in spaced relation with a tie-thread, folding the lace fabric along the transverse line defined by the re-grouping of
  • a lace fringe comprising a band of lace including a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said elongated drops being substantially twice the length of the lace fringe to be formed, said band of lace being folded along the transverse medial line of said elongated drops to change said drops into a series of lace loops forming the lace fringe, and a line of stitches traversing the free edges of said folded band of lace to retain the lace fringe in position, and to prevent it from unravelling.
  • a lace fringe comprising a band of lace including a rst series of elongated lace drops with openwork between them., a second series of elongated laoe drops with openwork between them in extension of said first series, the lace drops of each lseries being positioned in alignment with the openwork between the lace drops of the other series, said lace band being folded along the line of merger of the first and second series of lace drops to align the lace drops of each series in the spaces defined by the openwork between the lace drops of the adjacent series to form the lace fringe, and one or more lines of stitches traversing the free edges of said folded band of lace to retain said fringe in position and prevent unravelling thereof.
  • a lace fringe which includes extending the warp threads beyond the normal finishing edge of a lace fabric, weaving clothing between spaced groups of said warp threads as ythus extended to form a series of elongated drops of close structure with openwork therebetween, and finishing off the outer extremity of said drops.
  • the method of manufacturing a lace fringe which includes extending the Warp threads beyond the normal finishing edge of a lace fabric, weaving clothing between spaced groups of said warp threads as thus extended to form a series of elongated drops of close structure with openwork therebetween, tying said drops together in spaced relation with a tie-thread, and nishing off the outer extremity of said drops.
  • a lace fringe which consists in weaving clothing between a series of warp threads to form an inner transverse lace strip of relatively close weave, extending the clothing between spaced groups of said Warp threads for a distance substantially equal to the ultimate length of the fringe to form a series of elongated lace drops of close structure alternating with openwork, joining the drops together in spaced relation, in like manner weaving a second series of elongated drops substantially equal in length to said rst series, joining the ends of the second series of lace drops together in spaced relation to form an outer transverse lace strip of relatively close weave, folding the lace fabric substantially along the line of jointure of the first and second series of said lace drops to form the lace fringe, and stitching the inner and outer transverse lace strips together.
  • a lace fringe which consists in weaving clothing between a series of warp threads to form an inner lace band of relatively close weave, extending the clothing between pre-determined spaced groups of said warp threads for a distance substantially equal to the length of the finished fringe to form a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between said drops, regrouping the warp threads into alternately spaced groups, extending the'clothing between said alternately spaced groups for substantially the same distance as before to form a second series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said second series of drops being in alignment with the openwork between said first series of drops and the openwork between said second series of drops being in alignment with the lace drops of said first series, Weaving clothing across the ends of said second series of lace drops to form an outer lace band of relatively close Weave for retaining said second series of lace drops in spaced relation, folding the lace fabric along the line of merger of said first and second series of lace drops thereby aligning
  • a lace fringe comprising a band of lace including a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said elongated drops being longer than the ultimate length of the lace fringe to be formed, tie-threads interconnecting said drops in spaced relation, said band of lace being transversely folded to change said drops into a series of interconnected lace loops defining the lace fringe, and a line of stitches traversing the edges of said folded band of lace to retain the lace fringe in position and prevent it from unravelling.
  • a lace fringe comprising a band of lace including a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said elongated drops being longer than the ultimate length of the lace fringe to be formed, tie-threads transversely interconnecting said drops in spaced relation, said band of lace being transversely folded along a line parallelling said line of tiethreads to change said drops into a series of interconnected lace loops defining the lace fringe, and means co-operating with the edges of said folded band of lace to retain the lace fringe in position and prevent it from unravelling.

Description

E. F. STINER Nov. 29, 1938;.
LAGE FRINGE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME Filed April 29, 1938 3 Sheets-Sheet l 'I Z0 2f 22292425 6 20 2f Z2' 2.a 24252@ i' INVENTQR` L'ggaf ,7T 51211161 ATTORNEY -ii M Nov.. 29, 1938'. E. F. sTlNER l 2,138,431
LACE FRINGE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME Filed April 29, 1938 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 a 52 5a g 34 5 55 36 ATTORNEY Nm. 29, i938. E, F. STINER A www LACE FRINGE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME Filed April 29, 193s 5 sheets-sheet 3 [umllrlllullrmjumummmnlmnluln mmf' 'IllllllllllllulllllllllllllillLIUIHHHINIMMILII!!Illllllllllumnnlll l"llll.'lllllrllmlllunmlmm www!!! unmllmvlmunllllmll INVNTOR ATTO RN EY Patented Nov. 29, 1938 PATENT OFFICE LACE FRINGE AND METHOD OF MANUFAC- TURING THE SAME' Edgar F. Stiner, New York, N. Y.
Application April 29, 1938, Serial No. 204,939
15 Ciairns.
This invention relates to a method of manufacturing lace fringes; and to lace having a fringe as a part of the pattern, as a new article of manufacture.
Heretofore fringes on lace fabrics have been manufactured separate from the fabrics, on machines other than lace making machines, and have thereafter been attached to the lace fabric by sewing. The bullion fringe is one well known io form of fringe thus attached to lace fabrics. This arrangement is unsatisfactory because it is impossible to match either the color or the texture of the fringe with that of the lace fabric; applying fringe to the fabric is an additional 15 operation requiring extra handling; and a certain amount of fringe is wasted because the length of the lace fabric is invariably different from that of the fringe.
One object of this invention is a new method of fabricating fringes on lace fabrics, particularly as applied to lace goods woven upon a Nottingham Lace Curtain Machine, Levers Machine, or the like.
Another object is a method of weaving a fringe, as for example a drop fringe, on a lace making machine.
Another object is to reduce the cost of manufacture of fringed lace fabrics by weaving the fringe as an integral part of the pattern of said fabric.
Another object is a fringe which will match the lace fabric in both color and texture.
l Another object is a fringe which will hang correctly.
Other objects will appear from the detailed description.
In the drawings comprising three sheets of seventeen (17) figures numbered Figs. l to 17 inclusive. l
Fig. 1 is a plan view of a fragment of lace edging showing the rst stage in the development of one form of my lace fringe.
Fig. 2 is a plan View of a fragment of another pattern of lace edging from which another emd bodiment of my lace fringe may be developed.
Fig. 3 is a plan view of a fragment of another pattern of lace edging from which still another embodiment of my lace fringe may be developed.
o Fig. 4 is a plan view of a fragment of another pattern of lace edging showing the first stage in the development of a lace fringe.
Fig. 5 is a front View of the fragment of lace edging of Fig. 4 showing an intermediate stage in the development of a lace fringe.
Fig. 8 is a front view of the lace fringe developed from the lace edging of Fig. 5.
Fig. 7 is a vertical cross-section of the lace fringe taken along the line '1 -1 of Fig. 6.v
Fig. 8 is a plan view of a fragment of the lower corner of a lace curtain showing a lace edging developed from a modification of the weave of Fig. 2.
Fig. 9 is a rear view of the lace edging of Fig. 8 showing an intermediate stage in the development of the edging of Fig. 8 into a lace fringe.
Fig. 10 is a rear View of the lace edging of Fig. 9 in the next stage of its development into a lace fringe.
Fig. 11 is a rear view of the lace fringe developed from Figs. 8, 9, and l0.
Fig. l2 is a plan view of a fragment of another lace edging.
Fig. 13 is a rear view of the lace fringe developed from the fragment of lace edging of Fig. 12.
Fig. 14 is an enlarged plan view of another lace edging.
Fig. 15 is a front view of the lace fringe de-v veloped from the fragment of lace edging of i the drawings.
Referring first to the simple pattern shown in Fig. 1, it will be assumed that the warp threads 253 to 25 both inclusive, have been spaced equidistantly apart so as to form uniform bars A, B, C, D, E, F, G, etc. The weave of Fig. 1 is made by withdrawing certain jacks or interceptors to form the clothing, and releasing certain other jacks or interceptors to make the openwork. For convenience in fabricating the lace edging, an upper horizontal band of clothing 3@ is pro-'- vided by withdrawing the jacks or interceptors and tying the spool or horizontal threads to the warp threads 2i! to 25 inclusive to form a clothed band Si). When the lace edging forms the marginal edge of a curtain the band of clothing 3i) may either be used or omitted as desired. The drops indicated at bars A, C, E, G, etc., are formed by withdrawing certain jacks or'interceptors and tying the spool or horizontal threads 3l to warp threads 2Q and 2l to complete the clothed drop. In like manner the spool or horizontal threads 33 are tied to warp threads 22-23, and spool or horizontal threads 35 to warp threads 24-25, to form a seriesof drops. The openwork in bars B, D, F, etc., is made by releasing the corresponding jacks or interceptors. The length of the drops A, C, E, etc., will vary according to the class of work and the desired length of finished fringe. The lace edging may be finished olf in any preferred manner, as for example by weaving a lower band of clothing 4D, which band may be a repeat of the band 30, thereby forming a lace edging substantially `as shown in Fig. 1. The lace edging shown in Fig. 1
' may form the marginal edge of a larger lpiece of lace as for example a lace curtain, lace panel, lace table cover, lace scarf, or other piece goods; or the lace edging may` be woven for sale as a separate article. The bottom edge rof the 'lace edging may be finished off in any preferred manner to prevent unravelling. When a lower band of clothing 40 is provided, unravelling may be prevented by (a) stitching or lockstitching the edge, or (b) by folding the lower band of clothi-ng 40 upon itself and stitching the formed fold; the edging (Fig. l) may then vbe folded along the transverse medial line of the series of drops, to bring the upper and lower half of each drop, into optical registry, to complete the fringe, which is then retained in .position by stitching the free edges together, which in the specific construction shown in Fig. l could be effected by stitching lower band 4l! to upper :band 3d. With the drops in optical registry, vthe number of drops per running inch or per gauge in the finished fringe, will be equal to one-half the number .of bars or points.
Fig. 2 illustrates a simple method of creating the optical illusion of appearing to form a finished fringe having twice as many drops as a fringe ,made ,as described in Fig. l. This is accomplished by weaving and tying the horizontal threads 3l, 33, 35 between their respective pairs of Warp threads Ztl-2l, 22-23, 24-25, for onehalf the length of the bars A, C, E, G, and leaving the upper khalf of bars B, D, F, openwork, as before, but in weaving the lower half of bars A to G etc., the jacks or interceptors corresponding to bars A, C, E, G, etc., are released, and the jacks or interceptors corresponding to bars B, D, F, etc., are withdrawn, thus moving the clothing over one bar and tying horizontal threads 42, 4d, 46 to their respective pairs of warp threads 2l--22, 23-24, 25-26, thus in effect staggering the lower drops relative to the upper drops and re-grouping the pairs of warp threads. The lower drops (Fig. 2), like the drops of Fig. l, may be reinforced at their lower extremity with a tie thread, which may be extended to form a lower band 40 as before. The reinforcing tie thread, or the lower band 4B, may be treated in any preferred manner to prevent unravelling, and the fringe may then be completed by folding the edging. Where, as illustrated (by way of eXn ample only) in Fig. 2, the edging is provided with upper and lower bands and 4i), the fringe may be completed by stitching bands and 4!! together as before, thus forming a fringe present ing the optical illusion of twice as many drops per running inch (or per gauge) as 'the fringe of Fig. l. By the crossover of the horizontal stitches from 3 1 33-35, to 42-44-46, or by providing a line of threads 50 (Figs. 4 to 6) extending horizontally across the bars A to G, the drops are tied together to prevent them from curling up or becoming displaced. When the lace edging is folded to form the finished fringe, the line of threads 50 forms an unbroken bottom line (see Fig. 6).
In the modication shown in Fig. 3 the bars of clothing are formed in the same manner as the bars of clothing in Fig. 2, but the drops are woven by clothing two adjacent bars A-B, E-F, leaving two bars C-D, of openwo-rk therebetween. In the lower half the `clothing may be moved over two bars to form a drop two bars wide at C-D, with openwork two bars wide at A--B and E-F. The tie thread 5D (Fig. 4) eX- tending horizontally across the bars A to G midway between the upper band of clothing 30 and the flower band of clothing 40, ties the drops together .and forms an unbroken bottom line for the fringe when folded as previously described (see Fig. 6).
The simple weaves disclosed in Figs, l, 2, and 3 are capable of endless variations. By employing a two-in and one-out weave, and by moving the clothing bars (midway between the upper clothing band 3D and lower clothing band 40) one or more bars, drops of varying widths may be produced; for example, the upper drops may be made narrower than the lower drops, the lower drops may be made narrower than the upper drops, :or narrow drops alternating with wide drops in the upper half `and wide drops alternating with narrow drops in the lower half, may be produced. Many variations will occur to those skilled in the art.
Figs. 4, 5, 6 and 7 illustrate successive steps vin the manufacture of Aa drop fringe. After emerging from the upper clothing after the warp threads 2n to 29 inclusive have been clothed to form, by way of example, upper band 30, they may be drawn together and clothed to form an upper medallion 5l. Emerging from medallion 5l the warp threads are pillared or grouped together in pairs 2li-2l, 22-23, 2-4-25, 26-21, 28-29, etc., by means of their associated horizontal threads 3|, 33, 35, 31, 29, etc.; the openwork at 32, 34, 36, 38 being form-ed by releasing the corresponding jacks or interceptors in the manner previously described. Midway between the upper medallion 5I and the lower medallion 52 a line of tie-threads 5B extends horizontally across the bars to tie all of the drops together in spaced relation, in this case to form a series of groups of pillared warp threads diverging from upper medallion 5|. Below the line of threads 50 the groups of pillared warp threads are eX- tended to form a repeat pattern of the drops of the upper half, warp threads 2li-2l, 22-23, 24-25, 26-21, 28--29, etc., converging and being clothed to form a lower medallion 52, the warp threads thereafter diverging a short distance and may then be further extended in parallel to form a lower band of clothing 40. If the lace edging is woven as a separate article both edges will require treatment to prevent unraveling; but if the lace edging forms the lower marginal edge of a larger piece of lace, such as a lace curtain or tablecloth, only the lower edge (in Fig. 3 the lower band of clothing 40) will require treatment to prevent unravelling. One such mode of treatment is shown in Fig. 4, where the lower clothing band 40 is folded upon itself (as along its transverse medial line 41) and the double ply thus formed (Fig. 5) is stitched by means of a line of stitches 48 traversing the lower band of clothing 40. The lace edging is now folded along the line of fold indicated by the horizontal line of threads 50, thus bringing the lower band stitched to form a fast edge (Fig. 10).
.piece goods (Fig. 10).
40, and the upper band 30, of clothing, into registry (Fig. 6), and the said bands of clothing are now secured together by a line of stitches 49 (see Figs. 6 and 7) Or lower band 40 could be folded and stitched to upper band 30, by the line of stitches 49, all in a single operation. The line of tie-threads D, prevents the drops from becoming curled up or otherwise displaced, and forms an unbroken line across the bottom of the drop fringe to provide an ornamental finish for the bottom edge. If the lace edging shown in Figure l were not the lower marginal edge of a larger piece of lace, the upper band of clothing 30 would require treatment to prevent unravelling, and said lace edging could then be stitched to the lower extremity of a lace curtain, lace tablecloth, or other goods, to form an ornamental drop fringe edging for said goods.
Figures 8, 9, and 11 show successive stages in the development of the lace edging of Fig. 8 into the lace fringe of Fig. 11. The pattern is a variation of that disclosed in Figure 2. The warp threads to 29, may pass through an upper` band of clothing 39, then into the clothed groups (Z2-2l, 24-23, 25-25) of pillared warp threads with openwork (32, 34, 36) therebetween to form the upper drops 3l, 33, 35, etc., the clothing bars being thereafter moved over one bar and the warp threads (20 to 29, etc.) regrouped and then repillared to form a series of drops (42, 44, 4E, etc.) which are aligned with the openwork (32, 34, in the .upper half ofthe edging, but which drops (42, 44, 46, etc.) are staggered relative to the upper series of drops (3|, 33, 35, etc.), and Separated therefrom by an ornamental zig-zag line of threads 53. When the lower band of clothing is employed it is treated to prevent unravelling as by being folded along the line 41 (Figs. 8 and 9), and When the running edge of the lace edging is not woven with a fast edge on the lace making machine, a fast edge may be provided by folding the lace edging along a vertical line indicated at 54-54 (Fig. 9), and the hem thus formed may be stitched with one or more vertical lines of stitches traversing the lace edging and lace The fringe is completed by folding the lace edging along the line of fold indicated by the zig-zag line of threads 53 to produce the fringe'shown in Figure 11, the fringe being held in place by one or more horizontal lines of stitches 56. The lace edging of Figure 8 from which the lace fringe of Figure 11 is developed, may consist of the marginal edge of a lace curtain or other lace piece goods 51 (Fig. 8) or it may be formed as a separate ornamental drop fringe adapted to be applied to the running edge of a section of lace or other goods.
Figures 12 and 13 show how another ornamental form of drop fringe (Fig. 13) may be developed from a lace edging (Fig. l2) forming the marginal edge of a larger section of lace 58. Groups of pillared warp threads -6|-62-53, 64-65-6S-51, form a series of drops 10, 12, with openwork 13, 15, therebetween; the groups of pillared warp threads are then regrouped and re-pillared to form the drops 80, 82, which are positioned in alignment with the openwork 13, 15, and in staggered relation to the drops 19, 12. The lower edge is reinforced either with a tiethread or with a band of clothing 40, which may be treated to prevent unravelling in any preferred manner, as by folding, stitching, lockstitching, etc. If the fabric is not provided with a fast running edge, said running edge may be folded along the line 99-90 (Fig. 12), and then stitched with a vertical line of stitches 9| (Fig. 13). By folding the lace edging along a line of fold indicated by the zig-zag line 92, the drops 80, 82, etc., are positioned in the spaces between the drops 19, 12, etc., formed by the openwork 13, 15, etc. The lower band of clothing 40 is thus brought into optical registry with the upper band of clothing 30, said bands of clothing then being secured together by a horizontal line of stitches 93. The zig-zag line of threads 92, formed by the regrouping and re-pillaring of the warp threads, acts as a line of tie-threads between the drops 10, 12, etc., and 80, 82, etc., thus providing an ornamental finish to the bottom edge of the curtain (Fig. 13)', and at the same time preventing the drops from becoming curled up or displaced. In Figures l2 and 13 the drops formed by the groups of pillared warp threads resemble elongated columns supporting medallions 94 and capitals 95.
Figs. 14 to 1'1 inclusive variously illustrate my invention showing how the drops may be ornamented with medallions and the' like. In the variation shown in Figs. 14 and 15, a series of medallions Hit-i9@ are woven between groups of drops 3l-33-35-31, in the upper half of the lace edging; and the warp threads 29-4-21--22- 23-2fi-25-25-21-28-29 are regrouped and re-pillared as indicated by the Zig-zag line 92, by shifting the clothing one bar to form a series of drops Z-M-l etc., in the lower half of the lace edging in staggered relation to the drops 3|-33-3531 of the upper half of said edging and in alignment with the open network 32-34- 36-33 between said upper series of drops, so that when the lace edging is folded along a line of fold indicated generally by the zig-zag line 92 and the drops dZ--t-dt etc., will be aligned in the spaces between the drops 3I-33-35-31- 39 defined by the open network 32--34--36-38. The outer edges may be stitched together along a line indicated vgenerally -by the clothed bands 35 and 40 by one or more transverse 4lines of stitches 93 (Fig. 15) to retain the fringe in proper position, the zig-zag line of threads 92 thus forming an ornamental finish for the bottom edge of the fringe and at the same time preventing the drops from becoming curled up or displaced.
The lace edging illustrated in Figs. lvand 17 maybe formed in like manner by weaving cloth` ing at a plurality of spaced points 19E- 193 to form a border for an open network having clothing woven therein in the .form of a series of medallions 132-192, simulating flowers or other objects in silhouette, tied to the warp threads 23-2 i-22-23-24-25-29-21-28-29 e t c. The fringe (Fig. 17) is completed as previously described in any preferred manner.
The number of warp threads grouped or pillared together (as at lil- 12, 39-82, Fig. 12) may be varied, dependent upon the form of drop desired; or the drops may be made in skeleton or without any clothing associated with the warp threads. The drops may also be woven on the marginal edge of a curtain or lace article without employing the band of clothing 3B. The length of the drops is determined by the length of the warp threads; and the final form of thedrops depends upon (a) the pillaring or unpillaring of the warp threads, (b) the withdrawal of certain of the jacks or interceptors thus permitting the spool or horizontal threads to weave clothed keffects or partially clothed effects between certain groups of warp threadaand (c) the release of certain jacks or interceptors to produce unclothed effects or openwork between certain Warp threads. In other words, the ornamentation of the drops may be endlessly multiplied to produce an almost infinite variety of lace fringes formed on lace making machines, either as a part of a lace fabric, or as a separate lace edging adapted to be secured to piece goods by a stitching operation. When the fringe is woven as an integral part of a lace article the fringe will conform to the color and texture of the article, and both waste in trimming and expense due to separate handling, are avoided.
A lace fringe embodying the invention may be woven as an integral part. of a valance, which valance may be a separate lace article or woven as an extension top for a lace curtain. In either case the fringe will hang from the lower edge of the valance when the latter is suspended in hung position. The zig-zag lines indicated at 53 (Figs. 8 to 11) and 92 (Figs. 12 to 17), are formed 'by moving the clothing over one or more bars in the operation of staggering the lower drops relative to the upper drops and regrouping and repillaring the Warp threads.
The lace fringe or the lace article of which the fringe and at the same time preventing the loom or lace making machine as a unit of a repeat pattern, and each unit. is thereafter separated by cutting the warp threads between adjacent units. As the lace articles may either be woven lengthwise of the loom or across the width of the loom according to the character of the work and the effect desired, the expressions warp threads and spool or horizontal threads refer to the position of the various threads in the loom during weavingyand not to the direction of the threads in the lace goods when finished.
What is claimed is:
1. The method of manufacturing a lace fringe which includes extending the warp threads beyond the normal finishing edge of a lace fabric, clothing certain of said warp threads as thus extended for a sufficient distance to form a series of drops with openwork therebetween, and cutting said warp threads at the outer extremity of said drops.
2. The method of manufacturing a lace fringe which consists in weaving a series of clothed strips of lace of close structure alternating withv openwork of greater length than the ultimate length of the lace fringe, folding the lace along a line transverse the clothed strips to transform said strips into a series of loops constituting the fringe, and stitching the open ends of the elongated clothed strips together to retain the fringe in position and prevent its edge from unravelling.
3. The method of manufacturing a lace fringe which consists in weaving a series of elongated bars of lace of close structure alternating with openwork for a distance equal to twice the ultimate length of the lace fringe, folding the lace along the transverse medial line of the elongated bars to form a looped fringe, and stitching the free ends of the loops together to retain the fringe in position and prevent it from unravelling.
4. The method of manufacturing a lace fringe which consists in weaving clothing between a series of warp threads to form an upper transverse lace strip of relatively close weave, extending the clothing between spaced groups of said warp threads for a distance substantially equal to the ultimate length of the fringe to form a series of elongated lace drops of close structure alternating with openwork, joining the drops together in spaced relation, in like manner weaving a second series of elongated lace drops equal in length to said first series, joining the ends of the second series yof lace drops together in spaced relation to form a lower transverse lace strip of relatively close weave, treating said lower lace strip to prevent unravelling, folding the lace fabric along the line of jointure of the first and second series of lace drops to form the lace fringe and stitching the upper and lower transverse lace strips together.
5. The method of manufacturing a lace fringe which consists in weaving clothing between a series of warp threads to form an upper lace band of relatively close weave, extending the clothing between predetermined spaced groups of said warp threads for a distance substantially equal to the length of the finished fringe to form a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between said drops, re-grouping the warp threads into other spaced groups, extending the clothing between said spaced groups of warp threads as thus re-grouped for substantially the same distance as before to form a sec'- ond series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said second series of drops being in alignment with the openwork between said first series of drops and the openwork between said second series of drops being in alignment with the lace drops of said first series, reinforcing the ends of said second series of lace drops by tying their warp threads together in spaced relation with a tie-thread, folding the lace fabric along the transverse line defined by the re-grouping of the warp threads to align the lace drops of each series in the spaces defined by the openwork between the lace drops of the adjacent series to form a looped fringe displaying all of the drops in each Series, and attaching the tie-thread to the upper lace band to secure said fringe in position and to prevent said tie-thread from unravelling.
6. The method of manufacturing lace piece goods with an integral lace fringe edging which consists in extending the warp threads beyond the normal finishing edge of the lace fabric, weaving clothing between certain of said warp threads as thus extended for a distance equal to twice the ultimate length of the lace fringe to form a series of lace drops with openwork between them, and stitching the ends of the lace drops to the piece goods adjacent the normal finishing edge thereof, to form a looped lace fringe, to retain said fringe in position, and to prevent the lace drops from unravelling.
7. A lace fringe comprising a band of lace including a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said elongated drops being substantially twice the length of the lace fringe to be formed, said band of lace being folded along the transverse medial line of said elongated drops to change said drops into a series of lace loops forming the lace fringe, and a line of stitches traversing the free edges of said folded band of lace to retain the lace fringe in position, and to prevent it from unravelling.
8. A lace fringe comprising a band of lace including a rst series of elongated lace drops with openwork between them., a second series of elongated laoe drops with openwork between them in extension of said first series, the lace drops of each lseries being positioned in alignment with the openwork between the lace drops of the other series, said lace band being folded along the line of merger of the first and second series of lace drops to align the lace drops of each series in the spaces defined by the openwork between the lace drops of the adjacent series to form the lace fringe, and one or more lines of stitches traversing the free edges of said folded band of lace to retain said fringe in position and prevent unravelling thereof.
9. The method of manufacturing a lace fringe which includes extending the warp threads beyond the normal finishing edge of a lace fabric, weaving clothing between spaced groups of said warp threads as ythus extended to form a series of elongated drops of close structure with openwork therebetween, and finishing off the outer extremity of said drops.
l0. The method of manufacturing a lace fringe which includes extending the Warp threads beyond the normal finishing edge of a lace fabric, weaving clothing between spaced groups of said warp threads as thus extended to form a series of elongated drops of close structure with openwork therebetween, tying said drops together in spaced relation with a tie-thread, and nishing off the outer extremity of said drops.
11. The method of manufacturing a lace fringe which consists in weaving clothing between a series of warp threads to form an inner transverse lace strip of relatively close weave, extending the clothing between spaced groups of said Warp threads for a distance substantially equal to the ultimate length of the fringe to form a series of elongated lace drops of close structure alternating with openwork, joining the drops together in spaced relation, in like manner weaving a second series of elongated drops substantially equal in length to said rst series, joining the ends of the second series of lace drops together in spaced relation to form an outer transverse lace strip of relatively close weave, folding the lace fabric substantially along the line of jointure of the first and second series of said lace drops to form the lace fringe, and stitching the inner and outer transverse lace strips together.
12. The method of manufacturing a lace fringe which consists in weaving clothing between a series of warp threads to form an inner lace band of relatively close weave, extending the clothing between pre-determined spaced groups of said warp threads for a distance substantially equal to the length of the finished fringe to form a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between said drops, regrouping the warp threads into alternately spaced groups, extending the'clothing between said alternately spaced groups for substantially the same distance as before to form a second series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said second series of drops being in alignment with the openwork between said first series of drops and the openwork between said second series of drops being in alignment with the lace drops of said first series, Weaving clothing across the ends of said second series of lace drops to form an outer lace band of relatively close Weave for retaining said second series of lace drops in spaced relation, folding the lace fabric along the line of merger of said first and second series of lace drops thereby aligning the lace drops of each series in the spaces defined by the openwork between the lace drops of the adjacent series to form a looped fringe displaying all of the drops in each series, and attaching the outer and inner lace bands together tosecure said fringe in position and to prevent unravelling.
13. The method of manufacturing lace piece. goods with an integral lace fringe edging which consists in extending the warp threads beyond the normal finishing edge of the lace fabric, Weaving clothing between certain of said warp threads as thus extended for a distance substantially equal to twice the ultimate length of the lace fringe to form a series of lace drops with openwork between them, clothing the ends of the lace drops together in spaced relation, and stitching the clothed ends of the lace drops to the piece goods adjacent the normal finishing edge thereof to form a looped fringe, to retain said looped fringe in position, and to prevent unravelling of the lace.
14. A lace fringe comprising a band of lace including a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said elongated drops being longer than the ultimate length of the lace fringe to be formed, tie-threads interconnecting said drops in spaced relation, said band of lace being transversely folded to change said drops into a series of interconnected lace loops defining the lace fringe, and a line of stitches traversing the edges of said folded band of lace to retain the lace fringe in position and prevent it from unravelling.
l5. A lace fringe comprising a band of lace including a series of elongated lace drops of close structure with openwork between them, said elongated drops being longer than the ultimate length of the lace fringe to be formed, tie-threads transversely interconnecting said drops in spaced relation, said band of lace being transversely folded along a line parallelling said line of tiethreads to change said drops into a series of interconnected lace loops defining the lace fringe, and means co-operating with the edges of said folded band of lace to retain the lace fringe in position and prevent it from unravelling.
EDGAR F. STINER.
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2723586A (en) * 1953-12-23 1955-11-15 North American Lace Company In Nottingham elastic lace net and the method of making the same

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2723586A (en) * 1953-12-23 1955-11-15 North American Lace Company In Nottingham elastic lace net and the method of making the same

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