US2091215A - Lace and method of producing the same - Google Patents

Lace and method of producing the same Download PDF

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Publication number
US2091215A
US2091215A US134139A US13413937A US2091215A US 2091215 A US2091215 A US 2091215A US 134139 A US134139 A US 134139A US 13413937 A US13413937 A US 13413937A US 2091215 A US2091215 A US 2091215A
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threads
fancy
lace
thread
fabric
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US134139A
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Price William Harold
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04C—BRAIDING OR MANUFACTURE OF LACE, INCLUDING BOBBIN-NET OR CARBONISED LACE; BRAIDING MACHINES; BRAID; LACE
    • D04C1/00—Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof
    • D04C1/06—Braid or lace serving particular purposes
    • D04C1/08—Tulle fabrics
    • D04C1/10—Pattern tulle fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method of producing lace with fancy thread on lace braiding machines particularly, but not exclusively, of the type known as one-thread lace braiding machines.
  • the invention comprises a method of producing lace with a fancy thread on a lace braiding machine, wherein the threads or bobbins of the ground work and the fancy thread are so controlled or influenced by tensioning 10, and/or guiding same that the fancy thread is caused to stand up from the surface of the fabric. That is to say the fancy thread has, in relation to the remainder of the fabric, a superimposed character.
  • the threads may be controlled to 15 form a fancy ground (for example net or linen ground) enclosed or outlined by fancy threads and in the main supported by the remaining ground, the fancy thread being merely tied in by the ground threads as far as is necessary to secure it in position,-and to form a margin or outline for certain parts of the ground work.
  • a plurality of fancy threads may be employed, arranged parallel to each other in the resultant fabric.
  • a fancy thread upon crossing with a strongly tensioned ground thread, is always guided at the 30 same side (preferably the inside) of the plate or is guided always to the same side of the tensioned threads.
  • the fancy thread on certain sections of the lace may be guided to the reverse 35 side. This may be effected by any convenient means such as, for example, the employment of empty bobbins. It is preferred that on the section and at the place whereat the fancy thread is guided to the reverse side, the lace is made wholly or in part sufficiently compact that when viewed from the front the fancy thread is concealed.
  • the fancy thread is guided at an edge of the lace to provide in the fabric the impression of scallops.
  • a lace fabric having the appearance and many of the characteristic features of point applique, but being an integral fabric completed in the act or process of making the same, may be produced with characteristic and improved features, as will be hereinafter pointed out.
  • Figure 2 is a top face view of a strip of lace of more complicated structure according to this invention.
  • Figures 3 and 4 are enlarged views showing the disposition of the fancy thread.
  • Figure 5 is a top face View of a strip of lace of modified structure according to this invention.
  • Figure 6 is a view of an insertion lace according to this invention.
  • Figure 7 is a draft of the type of lace shown in Figure 6, while Figure 8 is a diagrammatic section taken on the line 83 in Figure 7.
  • the fancy threads are distinguished by the reference numeral Ill and it will be observed that they are shown (as is preferred) as being substantially thicker than the threads ll, I2 forming the ground of the fabric. It will be noted that the fancy thread always extends over the longitudinal threads H of the ground but under such of the transverse threads I2 as serve to tie it into the fabric. In order to make the fancy threads 10 project or stand out beyond the face of the ground work of the fabric, their tension is preferably greater than the tension of the transverse threads l2, but less than the tension of the longitudinal threads I I. Therefore, the latter force the fancy threads to the face of the fabric as is clearly shown in Figures 3 and 4.
  • the fancy threads iil enclose or outline areas such as l3, the ground fabric of which may be of denser structure than the ground fabric of the surrounding areas. It will be further noted that the threads near one edge of the lace wander to and fro and impart to the lace the similitude of a scalloped edge, without the assistance of special binding threads, such as are employed in applique work.
  • a plurality of fancy threads may if desired be caused to be in close proximity and parallel to each other and a lace in accordance with this invention and embodying a plurality of such threads is illustrated by way of example in Figure 5.
  • the fabric of the section B is so dense that the fancy thread at the rear does not show through.
  • the fancy thread extends always the one side of the longitudinal threads H and is bound to the face of the fabric by certain of the transverse threads it, Any known or approved means for causing the fancy thread to pass from the front to the rear of the fabric may be employed and by way of example only it may be said that the result may be produced by the employment of empty bobbins.
  • the fancy thread at the reverse side may be cut away.
  • the fancy threads may be either floated at the reverse side or tied in at spaced intervals. If desired they may be employed at the reverse side to form certain pattern effects, and in the modification, and in the arrangement illustrated in Figures 1 to 5, fancy threads of difierent colours or of different thickness, or differing in other ways, may be employed.
  • the lace to be provided with fancy thread according to this invention is preh erably taken up by an open braiding-iron, without a mandrel,
  • the lace produced in accordance with this invention may embody elastic thread or threads, preferably thread wrapped with cotton or the like, so as to render the fabric extensible.
  • lhe superposed or upstanding fancy thread or threads may be elastic, and in the construction of fabric wherein the fancy thread or threads constitute outlining or marginal threads for pattern or other parts of the ground work, said outlining threads may be covered elastic.
  • a method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein a fancy thread is applied so as to stand up from the surface of the fabric by tensioning different groups of the ground thread with different degrees of tension and by so guiding and tension ing the fancy thread as to cause only the lighter tensioned ground threads to cross over same and bind. it to the ground threads on that side or face of the fabric from which the fancy thread pro- J'ects.
  • a method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein different groups of ground thread are introduced under different tension and a fancy thread is so guided and tensioned as to cause same to stand up from the fabric surface, and wherein ground threads are controlled to form a fancy or patterned ground, predetermined parts of said ground being outlined by the upstanding fancy thread anchored to the ground so far as is necessary to secure the outlining threads in position.
  • a method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein different groups of ground thread are introduced under different tension and fancy threads are so guided and tensioned as to cause same to stand up from the fabric surface, and wherein a plurality of fancy threads are employed and arranged parallel to each other in the resultant fabric.
  • a method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein different groups of ground thread are introduced under different tension and a fancy thread is so guided and tensioned as to cause same to stand up from the fabric surface, and wherein the fancy thread when crossing with a strongly tensioned ground thread is always guided at the same side of a plate.
  • a method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein different groups of ground thread are introduced under different tension and a fancy thread is so guided and tensioned as to cause same to stand up from the fabric surface, and wherein the fancy thread is always guided to the same side of the strongly tensioned ground threads.
  • a method of producing lace, with a fancy thread, on a lace braiding machine wherein different tension is applied to the fancy thread and to different groups of ground threads so as to cause the fancy thread to stand up from the surface of the fabric and wherein the fancy thread is, at p determined parts or sections of the fabric, passed from one side or face to the reverse side or face of said fabric.
  • a lace fabric produced on a lace braiding machine having a ground work produced by interlaced ground threads and a fancy thread bound to said ground work by certain of the threads which constitute the ground work, but standing up from the plane or surface thereof.
  • a lace fabric according to claim 10 having the fancy thread bound to the ground work of the fabric by certain of the threads constituting the ground work, and standing up from the surface thereof and constituting outlining threads for pattern portions of the fabric ground.
  • a fancy thread for design effects.
  • the method of operation which comprises interlacing threads to produce a ground work, applying to a face thereof a fancy thread and tieing the same thereto by certain of the threads of the ground work, the tension of which tieing threads is less than that of other threads of the ground work whereby the fancy thread is caused to stand up from the plane surface of the ground work.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)

Description

W. H. PRICE Aug. 24, 1937.
LACE AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME 1937 2.Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed March 51 Luusrvrolq r v ATTORNEY8 Aug. 24, 1937. w. H. PRICE LACE AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed March 51, 1.957
ml. in
48 16 FEW/q Cb -H-PQICE Eg 8 INUENTDR. m w
Armervevs Patented Aug. 24, 1937 UNETED STATEg PATENT orFicE William Harold Price, Nottingham, England Application March 31, 1937, Serial No. 134,139 In Germany August 28, 1935 15 Claims.
This invention relates to a method of producing lace with fancy thread on lace braiding machines particularly, but not exclusively, of the type known as one-thread lace braiding machines.
5 Primarily the invention comprises a method of producing lace with a fancy thread on a lace braiding machine, wherein the threads or bobbins of the ground work and the fancy thread are so controlled or influenced by tensioning 10, and/or guiding same that the fancy thread is caused to stand up from the surface of the fabric. That is to say the fancy thread has, in relation to the remainder of the fabric, a superimposed character. The threads may be controlled to 15 form a fancy ground (for example net or linen ground) enclosed or outlined by fancy threads and in the main supported by the remaining ground, the fancy thread being merely tied in by the ground threads as far as is necessary to secure it in position,-and to form a margin or outline for certain parts of the ground work. A plurality of fancy threads may be employed, arranged parallel to each other in the resultant fabric.
5 When a plurality of fancy threads is employed, they may themselves be braided together to form cords. According to a feature of the invention a fancy thread, upon crossing with a strongly tensioned ground thread, is always guided at the 30 same side (preferably the inside) of the plate or is guided always to the same side of the tensioned threads. According to a subsidiary feature of the invention, however, the fancy thread on certain sections of the lace may be guided to the reverse 35 side. This may be effected by any convenient means such as, for example, the employment of empty bobbins. It is preferred that on the section and at the place whereat the fancy thread is guided to the reverse side, the lace is made wholly or in part sufficiently compact that when viewed from the front the fancy thread is concealed.
According to a further subsidiary feature of the invention, the fancy thread is guided at an edge of the lace to provide in the fabric the impression of scallops.
According to the present invention a lace fabric having the appearance and many of the characteristic features of point applique, but being an integral fabric completed in the act or process of making the same, may be produced with characteristic and improved features, as will be hereinafter pointed out.
55 In order that the invention may be better understood reference will now be made to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a draft of a simple form of lace according to this invention.
Figure 2 is a top face view of a strip of lace of more complicated structure according to this invention.
Figures 3 and 4 are enlarged views showing the disposition of the fancy thread.
Figure 5 is a top face View of a strip of lace of modified structure according to this invention.
Figure 6 is a view of an insertion lace according to this invention.
Figure 7 is a draft of the type of lace shown in Figure 6, while Figure 8 is a diagrammatic section taken on the line 83 in Figure 7.
Referring to the drawings, the fancy threads are distinguished by the reference numeral Ill and it will be observed that they are shown (as is preferred) as being substantially thicker than the threads ll, I2 forming the ground of the fabric. It will be noted that the fancy thread always extends over the longitudinal threads H of the ground but under such of the transverse threads I2 as serve to tie it into the fabric. In order to make the fancy threads 10 project or stand out beyond the face of the ground work of the fabric, their tension is preferably greater than the tension of the transverse threads l2, but less than the tension of the longitudinal threads I I. Therefore, the latter force the fancy threads to the face of the fabric as is clearly shown in Figures 3 and 4.
Conveniently the fancy threads iil enclose or outline areas such as l3, the ground fabric of which may be of denser structure than the ground fabric of the surrounding areas. It will be further noted that the threads near one edge of the lace wander to and fro and impart to the lace the similitude of a scalloped edge, without the assistance of special binding threads, such as are employed in applique work.
A plurality of fancy threads may if desired be caused to be in close proximity and parallel to each other and a lace in accordance with this invention and embodying a plurality of such threads is illustrated by way of example in Figure 5.
In Figures 6 to 8 a modification of the inven- 5 tion is illustrated, the lace having two sections lettered A and B. In the section lettered A the fancy thread It] lies upon the surface of the lace, while at the juncture between these two sections the thread passes through to the:
rear face, and advantageously the fabric of the section B is so dense that the fancy thread at the rear does not show through. As will be seen from Figure '7 in either section the fancy thread extends always the one side of the longitudinal threads H and is bound to the face of the fabric by certain of the transverse threads it, Any known or approved means for causing the fancy thread to pass from the front to the rear of the fabric may be employed and by way of example only it may be said that the result may be produced by the employment of empty bobbins.
As will readily be appreciated, in certain cases the fancy thread at the reverse side may be cut away. Moreover the fancy threads may be either floated at the reverse side or tied in at spaced intervals. If desired they may be employed at the reverse side to form certain pattern effects, and in the modification, and in the arrangement illustrated in Figures 1 to 5, fancy threads of difierent colours or of different thickness, or differing in other ways, may be employed.
In manufac ,re the lace to be provided with fancy thread according to this invention is preh erably taken up by an open braiding-iron, without a mandrel,
The lace produced in accordance with this invention may embody elastic thread or threads, preferably thread wrapped with cotton or the like, so as to render the fabric extensible. lhe superposed or upstanding fancy thread or threads may be elastic, and in the construction of fabric wherein the fancy thread or threads constitute outlining or marginal threads for pattern or other parts of the ground work, said outlining threads may be covered elastic.
I clai.m:
l. A method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein a fancy thread is applied so as to stand up from the surface of the fabric by tensioning different groups of the ground thread with different degrees of tension and by so guiding and tension ing the fancy thread as to cause only the lighter tensioned ground threads to cross over same and bind. it to the ground threads on that side or face of the fabric from which the fancy thread pro- J'ects.
2. A method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein different groups of ground thread are introduced under different tension and a fancy thread is so guided and tensioned as to cause same to stand up from the fabric surface, and wherein ground threads are controlled to form a fancy or patterned ground, predetermined parts of said ground being outlined by the upstanding fancy thread anchored to the ground so far as is necessary to secure the outlining threads in position.
3. A method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein different groups of ground thread are introduced under different tension and fancy threads are so guided and tensioned as to cause same to stand up from the fabric surface, and wherein a plurality of fancy threads are employed and arranged parallel to each other in the resultant fabric.
4. A method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein different groups of ground thread are introduced under different tension and a fancy thread is so guided and tensioned as to cause same to stand up from the fabric surface, and wherein the fancy thread when crossing with a strongly tensioned ground thread is always guided at the same side of a plate.
5. A method of producing lace, with fancy threads, on a lace braiding machine wherein different groups of ground thread are introduced under different tension and a fancy thread is so guided and tensioned as to cause same to stand up from the fabric surface, and wherein the fancy thread is always guided to the same side of the strongly tensioned ground threads.
6. A method according to claim 1 wherein the fancy thread is guided at an edge of the lace fabric to provide in the fabric a simulation of scallops.
'7. A method of producing lace, with a fancy thread, on a lace braiding machine wherein different tension is applied to the fancy thread and to different groups of ground threads so as to cause the fancy thread to stand up from the surface of the fabric and wherein the fancy thread is, at p determined parts or sections of the fabric, passed from one side or face to the reverse side or face of said fabric.
A method according to claim '7 wherein at the part or parts at which the fancy thread is guided at the reverse side, the lace is made so compact as to tend to conceal said fancy thread when the fabric is viewed from the front.
9. The production of fabric according to claim 2 wherein the upstanding outlining threads are constituted by elastic threads.
10. A lace fabric produced on a lace braiding machine having a ground work produced by interlaced ground threads and a fancy thread bound to said ground work by certain of the threads which constitute the ground work, but standing up from the plane or surface thereof.
11. A lace fabric according to claim 10 having the fancy thread bound to the ground work of the fabric by certain of the threads constituting the ground work, and standing up from the surface thereof and constituting outlining threads for pattern portions of the fabric ground.
12. In the production of a lace fabric wherein is incorporated a fancy thread for design effects, the method of operation which comprises interlacing threads to produce a ground work, applying to a face thereof a fancy thread and tieing the same thereto by certain of the threads of the ground work as the latter is being produced, and without drawing the fancy thread into the body of the ground work, thus leaving it standing up from the plane of the surface thereof on which it rests.
13. In the production of a lace fabric wherein is incorporated a fancy thread for design effects. the method of operation which comprises interlacing threads to produce a ground work, applying to a face thereof a fancy thread and tieing the same thereto by certain of the threads of the ground work, the tension of which tieing threads is less than that of other threads of the ground work whereby the fancy thread is caused to stand up from the plane surface of the ground work.
14. In the production of lace according to claim 12, wherein certain of the threads employed in the production of the fabric are elastic to render the said fabric extensible.
15. In the production of lace according to claim 12, wherein the fancy thread is an elastic thread.
WILLIAM HAROLD PRICE.
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US9839253B2 (en) 2014-12-10 2017-12-12 Nike, Inc. Last system for braiding footwear
US9920462B2 (en) 2015-08-07 2018-03-20 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine with multiple rings of spools
US10060057B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2018-08-28 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine with non-circular geometry
US10238176B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2019-03-26 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine and method of forming a braided article using such braiding machine
US10280538B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2019-05-07 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine and method of forming an article incorporating a moving object
US10299544B2 (en) 2014-12-10 2019-05-28 Nike, Inc. Last system for articles with braided components
US10555581B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2020-02-11 Nike, Inc. Braided upper with multiple materials
US10674791B2 (en) 2014-12-10 2020-06-09 Nike, Inc. Braided article with internal midsole structure
US10743618B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2020-08-18 Nike, Inc. Hybrid braided article
US10806210B2 (en) 2017-05-31 2020-10-20 Nike, Inc. Braided articles and methods for their manufacture
US10863794B2 (en) 2013-06-25 2020-12-15 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having multiple braided structures
US11051573B2 (en) 2017-05-31 2021-07-06 Nike, Inc. Braided articles and methods for their manufacture
US11103028B2 (en) 2015-08-07 2021-08-31 Nike, Inc. Multi-layered braided article and method of making
US11202483B2 (en) 2017-05-31 2021-12-21 Nike, Inc. Braided articles and methods for their manufacture
US11219266B2 (en) 2013-06-25 2022-01-11 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear with braided upper

Cited By (21)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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US10863794B2 (en) 2013-06-25 2020-12-15 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having multiple braided structures
US11219266B2 (en) 2013-06-25 2022-01-11 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear with braided upper
US10299544B2 (en) 2014-12-10 2019-05-28 Nike, Inc. Last system for articles with braided components
US10932528B2 (en) 2014-12-10 2021-03-02 Nike, Inc. Last system for articles with braided components
US12042022B2 (en) 2014-12-10 2024-07-23 Nike, Inc. Last system for articles with braided components
US9839253B2 (en) 2014-12-10 2017-12-12 Nike, Inc. Last system for braiding footwear
US11540596B2 (en) 2014-12-10 2023-01-03 Nike, Inc. Last system for articles with braided components
US10674791B2 (en) 2014-12-10 2020-06-09 Nike, Inc. Braided article with internal midsole structure
US10870933B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2020-12-22 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine and method of forming an article incorporating a moving object
US10060057B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2018-08-28 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine with non-circular geometry
US10238176B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2019-03-26 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine and method of forming a braided article using such braiding machine
US10743618B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2020-08-18 Nike, Inc. Hybrid braided article
US11339513B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2022-05-24 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine and method of forming an article incorporating a moving object
US10555581B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2020-02-11 Nike, Inc. Braided upper with multiple materials
US10280538B2 (en) 2015-05-26 2019-05-07 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine and method of forming an article incorporating a moving object
US11103028B2 (en) 2015-08-07 2021-08-31 Nike, Inc. Multi-layered braided article and method of making
US9920462B2 (en) 2015-08-07 2018-03-20 Nike, Inc. Braiding machine with multiple rings of spools
US10806210B2 (en) 2017-05-31 2020-10-20 Nike, Inc. Braided articles and methods for their manufacture
US11051573B2 (en) 2017-05-31 2021-07-06 Nike, Inc. Braided articles and methods for their manufacture
US11202483B2 (en) 2017-05-31 2021-12-21 Nike, Inc. Braided articles and methods for their manufacture
US11425956B2 (en) 2017-05-31 2022-08-30 Nike, Inc. Braided articles and methods for their manufacture

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