US2074004A - Pump - Google Patents

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Publication number
US2074004A
US2074004A US4021A US402135A US2074004A US 2074004 A US2074004 A US 2074004A US 4021 A US4021 A US 4021A US 402135 A US402135 A US 402135A US 2074004 A US2074004 A US 2074004A
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United States
Prior art keywords
lining
strip
pump
stitching
edge
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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US4021A
Inventor
Tweedie Charles
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication date
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Priority to US4021A priority Critical patent/US2074004A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US2074004A publication Critical patent/US2074004A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/0235Different layers of different material
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/04Uppers made of one piece; Uppers with inserted gussets
    • A43B23/042Uppers made of one piece

Definitions

  • a My invention relates to pumps of the kind that are made-by stitching the lining to the upper alongthetop e'dgeof the upper and afterward cutting the lining just above the stitching. Pumpsof this type have many favorable points but they -have one shortcoming, namely, that, in the movement of the foot Within the shoe, the raw edge of the lining at the front of the-opening isliable to chafe the foot and cause considerable j discomfort.
  • the principalfobject of the present invention is to overcomel this objection without sacrificing the favorable pointsv of the old pump.
  • the invention consists principally in the method hereinaffterdescribed ofincorporating an edge protectingstrip atithe front of the foot opening in the course of manufacturing the pump. It also consists inthe pumphereinafter described and'clairned.'WI 'f ,f
  • Fig. 3 is al vieu/of the topside of the upper with Athe lining "and ⁇ protective strip stitched thereto prior to the folding of said strip,
  • Fig. 4- is a cross-section on the line 4--4 of Fig. 3, i
  • Fig. 5 is a top view of the upper after the edge of the lining is trimmed and the protective strip is folded back along the line of stitching and is secured to the underside of thelining,
  • Fig. 6 is a cross-section on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5,
  • Fig. '7 is a view of an upper from the inside 40 illustrating the lining pattern and stitching commonly used heretofore when the lining is made with the quarters separate from the vamp
  • Fig. 8 is a similar view showing the patterns of the vamp and quarter linings changed conformably to my invention.
  • My pump comprises an upper I and a lining 2 therefor stitched together close to the top edge of the upper.
  • a protective strip 3 with a narrow portion exposed on the upper face of the upper and with a wider portion doubled back onto the lining.
  • this protective strip is of the same material as the upper and 55 arranged to appear as a part thereof.
  • Fig.2 is a. detail view showing the form of purpose, the protective' strip isstitched to the upper and then doubled back first along the line of stitching t and then again doubled Aback over the edge of the upper; the inturned portion being preferably secured flatwise to the lin- 5 ing by suitable cement 5;
  • the protective strip l5 is sewed to the upper ⁇ l bythe same line olf stitching" l4 thatl securesthe ⁇ lining -2 thereto. Accordingly, the lining 'and the yupper* are laid togetherv flatwise ashferetofore and the protective strip, preferablyfoffthe same -material as the upper, is placed on thetop of the upper with itsigrain side'facingthe grain side of the upper. Then these three parts, namely, the protective strip, upper andlining, are stitched together by the same line of stitching and in 25 the same Way as has previously been done without such strip.
  • the margin of the lining is cutoff as heretofora- Then the reinforcing strip is folded back along the line of stitching 30 and is again folded back over the edges of the upper and of the lining, and the inturned margin of said protecting strip is cemented or otherwise suitably secured flatwise to the lining. As soon as the cement 5 is dry, the work is; ready 35 for assembling, lasting and numerous other manufacturing operations in the o-rdinary way.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates a suitable shape for the protective strip in its flat condition prior to stitching. It is noted that one side of the strip is 40 concave and of a length substantially equal to the length of the curve at the front end of the foot opening of the pump, but in the flat condition of the strip the ends of the concave diverge somewhat more than the curve of the shoe open- 45 ing. 'I'his difference represents an allowance that is made so that the ends of the concave may be sprung towards each other in the course of stitching and thereby contribute to the fitting of the strip iiatwise against the lining when the strip is folded back.
  • the quarter lining sections 2a are made quarter and vamp sections 2a, 2b of the lining are stitched together by seams I0 which extend from each side of the shank to the near end of the curve of the foot opening or thereabout, the vamp lining section extends continuously along such curve and the longitudinal seam 9 and resulting hump of the old construction are eliminated.
  • the protective strip is applied to my sectional lining in the same manner as hereinbefore set forth.
  • the saving in leather and the extension of the drill is represented by the space between-the line of stitching 6 and the dotted line 8 which corresponds to the-line of stitching IU in the new construction illustrated in Fig. 8.
  • a pump having at the front of the top edge thereof a short protective strip, said protective strip being a normally flat piece with a concave edge secured by the top stitching of the pump and being folded over said top edge and secured atwise to the lining, the stitched edge of said strip being of substantially the same length and curvature as the curve at the front end of the foot opening.
  • a top-stitched pump having a short protective strip at the front of the top edge thereof, said protective strip being a normally flat piece of the same material as the upper and having one edge concave and secured to the upper by the top stitching of the pump, said strip being folded over said top edge and connected to the lining, the stitched edge of said strip being of substantially the same length and curvature as the curve at the front end of the foot opening.

Description

March 16, 937. C, W TWEED|E 2,074,004
M PUMP Filed Jan. 30, 1955 lll/1111111111111 /N VEN ro e;
HIS /Qr roe/vifs.
Patented Mar. 16, 1937 i UNI-IED vSTATES PATENITLorFicE- f 'l 2,074,004."l
PUMP` rCharles Tweedie, Jefferson CityfMo. j i Application January 30,1935, serial' Nt. 4,0215.V Y
zclaims. (C1. 364-57) A My invention relates to pumps of the kind that are made-by stitching the lining to the upper alongthetop e'dgeof the upper and afterward cutting the lining just above the stitching. Pumpsof this type have many favorable points but they -have one shortcoming, namely, that, in the movement of the foot Within the shoe, the raw edge of the lining at the front of the-opening isliable to chafe the foot and cause considerable j discomfort.
The principalfobject of the present invention is to overcomel this objection without sacrificing the favorable pointsv of the old pump. The invention consists principally in the method hereinaffterdescribed ofincorporating an edge protectingstrip atithe front of the foot opening in the course of manufacturing the pump. It also consists inthe pumphereinafter described and'clairned.'WI 'f ,f
the accompanying drawing, which forms partofthis specification, and wherein like reference numerals refer to like parts Wherever they occurs v VFigflv is' a view of apump embodying my invention,
the protective strip,A
Fig. 3 is al vieu/of the topside of the upper with Athe lining "and `protective strip stitched thereto prior to the folding of said strip,
Fig. 4- is a cross-section on the line 4--4 of Fig. 3, i
Fig. 5 is a top view of the upper after the edge of the lining is trimmed and the protective strip is folded back along the line of stitching and is secured to the underside of thelining,
Fig. 6 is a cross-section on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5,
Fig. '7 is a view of an upper from the inside 40 illustrating the lining pattern and stitching commonly used heretofore when the lining is made with the quarters separate from the vamp, and Fig. 8 is a similar view showing the patterns of the vamp and quarter linings changed conformably to my invention.
My pump comprises an upper I and a lining 2 therefor stitched together close to the top edge of the upper. At the front of the foot 50 opening of my pump is a protective strip 3 with a narrow portion exposed on the upper face of the upper and with a wider portion doubled back onto the lining. Preferably this protective strip is of the same material as the upper and 55 arranged to appear as a part thereof. For this Fig.2 is a. detail view showing the form of purpose, the protective' strip isstitched to the upper and then doubled back first along the line of stitching t and then again doubled Aback over the edge of the upper; the inturned portion being preferably secured flatwise to the lin- 5 ing by suitable cement 5;
In manufacturmg my'pump, I follow ordinary practice except in the' particulars hereinafter noted. In ordinarypractice, the lining and the upper 'are topstitched' togetherv by a line of lo stitching 4 close to the top edge of the upper, after which the margin of the lining is cut off along the top* edge of the upper," whereupon they are ready for assembling and lasting.
According to mymethod, the protective strip l5 is sewed to the upper `l bythe same line olf stitching" l4 thatl securesthe `lining -2 thereto. Accordingly, the lining 'and the yupper* are laid togetherv flatwise ashferetofore and the protective strip, preferablyfoffthe same -material as the upper, is placed on thetop of the upper with itsigrain side'facingthe grain side of the upper. Then these three parts, namely, the protective strip, upper andlining, are stitched together by the same line of stitching and in 25 the same Way as has previously been done without such strip. When vthe protective strip is sewed to the upper, the margin of the lining is cutoff as heretofora- Then the reinforcing strip is folded back along the line of stitching 30 and is again folded back over the edges of the upper and of the lining, and the inturned margin of said protecting strip is cemented or otherwise suitably secured flatwise to the lining. As soon as the cement 5 is dry, the work is; ready 35 for assembling, lasting and numerous other manufacturing operations in the o-rdinary way.
Fig. 2 illustrates a suitable shape for the protective strip in its flat condition prior to stitching. It is noted that one side of the strip is 40 concave and of a length substantially equal to the length of the curve at the front end of the foot opening of the pump, but in the flat condition of the strip the ends of the concave diverge somewhat more than the curve of the shoe open- 45 ing. 'I'his difference represents an allowance that is made so that the ends of the concave may be sprung towards each other in the course of stitching and thereby contribute to the fitting of the strip iiatwise against the lining when the strip is folded back.
As my protective strip is of short length and is applied to the upper prior to the lasting, it does not affect the dimensions that are essential to proper tting of the foot and adds very little to the cost of manufacture. On the other hand, it is inconspicuous, covers the raw edge of the lining and affords a smooth surface for the foot to bear against.
I have described my invention as applied to a full vamp pump. It is equally applicable to pumps wherein the quarters are made separate from the vamp and has special advantages with this type of pump. As illustrated in Fig. 7, it is the common practice to make pumps of this type by sewing the front ends of the quarters to the rear end of the vamp by lines of stitches 8 that extend from the shank portion close to the ends of the curve at the front end of the foot opening. It is also the common practice to cut the linings |2111 of the quarters with curved extensions 1 at their front ends that meet at the middle of the front curve of the foot opening and are secured together by a short line of stitches 9 extending longitudinally of the shoe at this point. The vamp lining |217 is cut with its rear end conforming to the front ends of the quarter linings with an overlap sufficient for stitching as shown at 6.
I have described my invention as applied to a full vamp pump but it is applicable to pumps of other designs. It is especially advantageous in connection with pumps wherein the lining is made in sections because it makes it practicable to eliminate a very objectionable seam hump which is formed at the front of the foot opening of the old construction illustrated in Fig. '7. With such old construction, the lining was commonly made in sections with the top portions of the quarter sections extended forwardly, as at l, and stitched together with a closed seam 9 extending longitudinally of Ythe shoe at the middle of the front end of the shoe opening and also stitched along their overlapping margins by a seam 5 extending from shank to shank. Such lining was then topstitched to the upper. Thus the materials were piled up into a hump at the very place Where it is most objectionable.
According to my invention as illustrated in Fig. 8, the quarter lining sections 2a are made quarter and vamp sections 2a, 2b of the lining are stitched together by seams I0 which extend from each side of the shank to the near end of the curve of the foot opening or thereabout, the vamp lining section extends continuously along such curve and the longitudinal seam 9 and resulting hump of the old construction are eliminated. The protective strip is applied to my sectional lining in the same manner as hereinbefore set forth.
It is more or less customary to use leather for lining quarters and drills or the like for lining Vamps, the leather being considerably more expensive. As my invention dispenses with the top extensions of the quarter linings and permits the use of smaller pieces of leather, it accomplishes a considerable economy because less of the expensive leather is required and because the additional material of the vamp lining is located at the rear concavity thereof and was wasted under the old practice.
Referring to Fig. '7, the saving in leather and the extension of the drill is represented by the space between-the line of stitching 6 and the dotted line 8 which corresponds to the-line of stitching IU in the new construction illustrated in Fig. 8.
What I claim is:
l. A pump having at the front of the top edge thereof a short protective strip, said protective strip being a normally flat piece with a concave edge secured by the top stitching of the pump and being folded over said top edge and secured atwise to the lining, the stitched edge of said strip being of substantially the same length and curvature as the curve at the front end of the foot opening.
2. A top-stitched pump having a short protective strip at the front of the top edge thereof, said protective strip being a normally flat piece of the same material as the upper and having one edge concave and secured to the upper by the top stitching of the pump, said strip being folded over said top edge and connected to the lining, the stitched edge of said strip being of substantially the same length and curvature as the curve at the front end of the foot opening.
CHARLES TWEEDIE.
US4021A 1935-01-30 1935-01-30 Pump Expired - Lifetime US2074004A (en)

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2881456A (en) * 1957-09-03 1959-04-14 Nicodemo J Agostino Shoe uppers and their manufacture
US3500560A (en) * 1968-06-26 1970-03-17 Golo Footwear Corp Seam construction for boot and method of making same
CN106174880A (en) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-07 耐克创新有限合伙公司 Footwear are manufactured with collar lining

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2881456A (en) * 1957-09-03 1959-04-14 Nicodemo J Agostino Shoe uppers and their manufacture
US3500560A (en) * 1968-06-26 1970-03-17 Golo Footwear Corp Seam construction for boot and method of making same
CN106174880A (en) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-07 耐克创新有限合伙公司 Footwear are manufactured with collar lining
WO2016196135A1 (en) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-08 Nike Innovate C.V. Footwear manufacturing with a collar liner
TWI613978B (en) * 2015-05-29 2018-02-11 耐克創新有限合夥公司 Article of footwear flat pattern and method of manufacturing article of footwear
KR20180015179A (en) * 2015-05-29 2018-02-12 나이키 이노베이트 씨.브이. Manufacture of footwear with color liners
CN106174880B (en) * 2015-05-29 2019-08-16 耐克创新有限合伙公司 Footwear are manufactured with collar lining
US10383401B2 (en) 2015-05-29 2019-08-20 Nike, Inc. Footwear manufacturing with a collar liner
KR20190123808A (en) * 2015-05-29 2019-11-01 나이키 이노베이트 씨.브이. Footwear manufacturing with a collar liner
CN110419818A (en) * 2015-05-29 2019-11-08 耐克创新有限合伙公司 Footwear are manufactured with collar lining
US10952502B2 (en) 2015-05-29 2021-03-23 Nike, Inc. Footwear manufacturing with a collar liner
TWI723627B (en) * 2015-05-29 2021-04-01 荷蘭商耐克創新有限合夥公司 Article of footwear and method of manufacturing article of footwear with integrated collar liner

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