US206317A - Hermann g - Google Patents

Description

8 Sheets--Sheet 2.

H. CQGROS. Boot and Shoe Sewing-Machine. No. 206,3i?. -Patentec-ljl'uly 23.1878.

Sheets-Sheet; 8.

v H. C. GROS.

Boot and-Shoe Sewing-Machine. No. 206.3%?. Pa'ented uiy 23.1878.

Saga

Wmssu 8 Sheets-Sheet 4.

H. C. GROS. Boot and Shoe Sewing-Machine. No. 206,3i?. Paented july 23. i.

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8 Sheets--Sheet 5.

H'. c. GROS. l Boot and Shoe Sewing-Machine. No. 206,3i?. Patented July 23,1878.

8 Sheets- Sheet 6.

Boot and Shoe Sewing-Machine. No. 206,31?. Patented July 23.1878.

8 Sheets-Sheet '1.

vH CQGf'Ros. Boot and Shoe Sewing-Machine. No. 2063i?. -Paterated July 23,1878.

54 any.

8 'Sheets-Sheet 8.

E. G. GROS. K Boot and Shoe Sewing-Machine. No. 206,31?.

Patented .Buly 23, 1878.

Mmmm. @mm/M mi y am@ 'raras PATENT OFFICE.

,Il ICRMANN GROS, OIF REUTLINGEI, lVR'ITIlllIBERG, GERMANY.

IMPROVEMENT* IN BOOT AND SHOE SEWING MACHINES.l

Spi-eiliralioii Vorming part of Letters Patent N0. 206,31 7, (lated July 23, 1873; lilllf'llml mill March 28, 1378. 'A

.To all 101mm 'it may concern:

for Boots and Shoes, reference being had to;

the accompanying drawings, in which- Iiigure l represents a sidel elevation of a machine embracing my invention. Fig. 2 is a front view thereof. Fig'. 3 is a plan or top view of the same. Fig. 4 is a front View of the feed mechanism, pa-rtly in section. Fig. 5 is a similar view ot' the tack-extractor. Fig. G is a plan or top view of the feed mechanism. 7 is a side View thereof, including the tack-extractor. Fig. S is a side view of the pierein g and sewi n g mechanisms, and the meehanism i'oroperating the looper, some parts heilig shown insection. Figs. i), 10, and 1l are side views ot' the piercing and sewing mechanisins and loopcr, showing the parts in their different positions. Fig. 12 is a cross-section in the lineman, Fig. Il. Fig. 13 is a 'front view ot' the louper and its drivin g mechanism, partly in section. Fig '1.4 is a side view of the mechauism for gaging the back movement of the.

needle. Fig. 14t is an end viewthereoi'. Fig. l5 is a crosssection ot' the sewing and pierein fr mechanisms in the line y y. Fig. e. Fig. lo is a sectional perspective riew et' the dcvices for rotating the looper. Fig. 17 shows a modification of the mechanism for locking the auxiliary gage. FiglS shows the sewing and piercing mechanis is applied to a machine for producing averticai seam. Fig. 19 shows a modification ot' the mechanism i'or driving the wrist-pin.` 2() shows portion oiA a machine as heretofore used. Fig. 2l shows specimens of work sewed on my machine.

Similar letters indicate correspomling parts.

Bly invention relates chieiiy to that class of machines for sewing what are known as turned boots and shoes;77 also l'or sewing' welts tol the uppers of' boots and shoes, and for stitching the soles to the welis, in which machines a curved barbed needle is used ei ther alone or in conjunction with an an'l. the point ot' which works eoucentrically to thv point oi' the needle.

Illy invention consists in certain novi-l Lonr binai'ious oi' parts, designed with :i Her. lo

obviate certain diIlicult-ies existing in the machines now generally in use,.all of which is hereinafter fully described, and pointed out in 'is formed in the sole (see Figs. 20 and 2l) at equal distances from its edge, to receive the seein and to 'form a guide for the work in the operation of sewing, the channel being made to receive, also, in machines now generally in use, the channel-gage or feed-dogjl In those machines in which the needle or awl' enters the work from the opposite side to the channel c, as indicated by the arrow in Fig. 20, the upward pressure on the work, as well as the piercing force of the needle or owl, is solely to be resisted by the channelgage or feed-doe.

A result of this arrangement is that the feed-dog is often forced through the sole, or that the material between the chamfered edge of 'the sole and Jhe channel c, known as the between substance, and marked y, is torn aw-ay before even a hole is pierced. This difficulty was sought to be overcome by arranging the needle to pierce the inner or channeled side of the soleand using a back guide, the fcedguide being arranged to o'ecu py a stationary position, and the back guide being made to yield, s0 as to ada-pt itself to the suuosities of the work. Suieient resistance, however, is not thereby offered to the force of the needle, and the arrangement is tlnirct'ore defect-ive.

I overcome the difficulties named by the arrangement of parts shown in Figs. 4 and 7 that. is to say, I attach the back guide (l, which is also arranged to form the welt-guide, to un arm, a', forming a part of the macl1ine-frame, so that the back guide is rigid or remains sta tionary during the operation of' sewing. I also make use of' a tp rest or middle gage, b, which is attached to the arm n', and is preferably made vertically adjustable, while it reaches down upon the between substance y, illus resisting the upward pressure on the work-that is to say, the pressure ot' thejaek upon which the 'work is mounted--so that the function ot' the channel-gage or ieeilihigy", in the presentinaehine, is simply to feed the article to be owed forward. When I add that, inthe sew-V e acoger? ing of welts and in the sewing of turned work, the awl (which works in the direction of the feed-dog) is generally dispensed with, the needle sci-vin g both as the piercing and' the sewing instrument, it will be readily seen that the part j', formerly called the channel-gage or feed-dog,77 and hereinafter termed a feedgage;7 is relieved of all, ornea-rly all, the pressure. Inasmuch as the workto be sewed has various thicknesses or shapes, the feed-gage j' is arranged to vibrate or yield, and thus aecommodate itself to sinuosities ofthe work. The

feed-gage j" acquires the requisite elasticity by its form; or, in other words, the spring is constructed as part of the fced-gage itself, the same being bent, as shown in Figs. 4 and 7, to forni two Shanks or legs, extending in a radial direction, orA nearly so, to the axis of the needle-circle.

That shank ofthe feedgage j' which extends toward the work to be scwcd is rebent, andv forms'the foot of the feed-gage j' reaching into thc channel c, while the other shank is secured to an oscillating lever, F, from which the feed-gage receives its motion. By arranging the leed-gage as stated, the point of yielding el' its yielding or vibrating shank does not deviate from the path of the needle.

lf desired, the two Shanks of the feed-gage j" can be made separately and connected by a hinge-joint, in which case a spring of' suitable form is placed between them.

In order to permit of limiting the motion of the yielding or vibrating shank of the feedgage f, l arrange an eccentric-disk, d, (best seen in Fig. 7,) on a suitable pivot ator near the lower end of the other or xed shank. This eccentric-disk d bears against the vibrating or yielding shank ofthe feed-gage f, and is held in its different positions by the action of a spring, d', which bears against one side of' a polygonal head, e, which is secured to the pivot on which the eccentric-disk d turns, so as to turn with the latter.- The adjustment of the eccentric-disk d is, under ordinary circumstances, effected by hand; but it maybe obtained automatically, if found desirable.

It will beseen that, whilev l employ a sta-V tionary or rigid back guide, a, and a top rest, b, the above-described arrangement ofthe feedgage f admits of its yieldin g ireely to diderent substances and sinuosities ofthe work. Thus', while in former machines, with a rigid feeddogand yielding back guide, the striking of the needle from the inside was not absolutely practicable, l.' achieve this object in a highlysatisiactory manner.

l employ a needle and awl, or a needle alone, having a radius of about two inches, (that being the medium between the two sizes ordinari adopleth) wherebylobtain such a curve as will most accurately pierce the soles and insoles in the saine direction asii the operation were performed by hand, and at the same time obtain snl'licient space for the carrying out off other parts of my invention.

,lhe needle n situated in a curved socdeet position by means of a cover, which is secured to the needle-stock by suitable screws. The needle-stock Nl is secured t'o an oscillating slotted lever, N, by means of aset-screw, N2, passing through a slot which is formed in the needlestock N1 eoncentrieally to the axis of the needle-circle, so that the needle-stock is adjustable, and at the same time always preserves the same relation to the needle-axis. lf desirable, however, the needle-stock NlL can be made in one piece with the slotted lever N. In the'upper arm of theslotted needle-stock lever N is formed a cam-slot, l), which is so -shaped that a wrist-pin or roller, R, fits into every portion of the same. This wrist-pin .lt is eecentrically secured to a rotating wheel, S, (or to a leven) which wheel has its axis in proximity to the axis of the leverN, constituting the needle-axis, and above the same, as clearly shown in Fig. 8, the wheel heilig mounted on a shaft, s. The location of the wrist-pin It onthe wheel S is such, relatively to the-circle of' motion of the needle, that in the rotation of the wheel about one halt' of the path through which the wrist-pin travels is withinthe needle-circle, while the other halt' thereof lies outside of the same.

Then a continuous revolving motion is imparted to the wheel S, an oscillating motion is given to the needle n by the action of the wrist-pin on the slotted lever N and I so arrange the wrist-pin in the slot l that when the needle reeedes from thestuft' to be scwed and draws a loop in the thread the wrist-pin is nearest to the needle-axis, so that the needle is caused to perform its retrograde movement with great rapidity, while just when the needle is about to pierce the stuff, and when thc greatest power is required, the wrist-pin is at the greatest distance from the said axis, the leverage is increased, andthe movement of the needle becomes comparatively slow.

lf desired, the wrist-pin lt-may be made adjustable ou thc wheel S, te permit of varying the loop drawn by the needle.

The needle In slides in a needle-guide, ywhich has a curved groove or hole for its reception. This guide tis so arranged, relatively to the motion of the needle, that when the needle pierces the work, as shown in Fig. l1, the guide bears onthe work, and remains in this pcsition till the needle recedes with the thread; but when the needle draws out, the thread goes back with the same. To the needle-guide t is'secured the so-called barbprotector or hook-shield7 t1, whose :function is to cover up the barb ofthe needle a when the latter recedes with a fresh loop), so that this barb-protector t* receives its motion from the same mechanism as the needle-guide t, and has a corresponding motion thereto. The compound needle-guide and barb-protector so formed is provided with a pin or projection, t2, (either plain or dovetailed) at its inner end, (see Figs. 8 `and 12,) which is placed in one ot two or more recesses formed in one arm of an formed in the needle-stock N1, and is held in the desired recess, then turning the eccentric washer in theiother direction and tightening the screw, ythe whole is rmlyheld' in position.

The object of providing two or more recesses for the. recept-ion ot the pin or projection t2 is to permit of adj nsting the compound needleguide and barb-protector t or tl correspondingly to the adjustment of the needlestock or needle.

The lever T receives its motion in an analogens way to the needle-stock lever N-the 1e- 'ver T, namely, swinging on acommon axis with the lat-ter, side by side with the same, and being provided with a cam-slot, U, in its upper arm, embracing the wrist-pin lt. A portion or one side or" the slot U in thc lever 'il is almost parallel to the slot of the needles stock lever Il, which portion ot the slot U is pressed against theUwrist-pin It during the upward motion of this pin by the action of a spring', u, whichis connected to the lever 'l`, whereby the compound necdlegnide and barbprotector t t1 is caused to move downward Yand to bear on th-ework when the needle pierces the same, as before stated.

rlhat part or side of the slot U which is opposite to the one last named'is eut away or enlarged eonecntrically to the axis of the wheel S, or nearly so, as at U", and the lever T is constructed with astop, u?, which, when Jthe wrist-pin It reaches its highestpoint, comes in contact. with a counter-stop, u, which is preferably made adjustable, so that after theV wrist-pin has reached its highest point and moves downward its action on the lever 'l ceases, during' which time the combined nee die-guide and hook-shield t t1 remains stationary and bears on the work. The length ofthe slot ll is such, relatively to the slot P in the needle-lever, thatthc compound needle-guide and barb-protector t t1 remains stationary till,-

thc needle n has been forced through the werk and reeedes therefrom with a l'rcsh loop. 'When' the needle has stepped out oi the work tac wrist-pin l resumes its action on the lever 'll in the slot lf, and the compound needleg'uide and barb-protector i is caused to move back with needle.

A'Bhe foregoing' portion of my speeilieation applies Vto the sewing ot welts and ot' turned work without the ,use of an a-wl, in boih'ot' which operations the seam-line ot'the work is vertically beneath the needle-axis.

I will now describe the application oi" my machine in producing the second seam, or in doubling-namely, in sewing the soie io the welt.. During this operation the work receives adii'erent position from the one named, the welt resting' on a support reaching to the needle-circle, and the sole lying inaninclined plane ot about thirty or forty degrees, as indicated in Fig. 10, so that the workman is enabled to observe the scam, and to move or turn the work without difficulty. In this operation., moreover, it is necessary that an ,awl be used in conjunction with the needle to pierce the hole through which the needle passes.

In the practical carrying out of this operation heretofore a special machine was necessary, or such an alteration of the welt-ma chine had to be undertaken as to render the same almost unserviceable.

By my machine I am enabled to produce both seams in one and the'same machine in a ]righly-satisi'actory manner, and without material alterations, every change which is really necessary'being' susceptible of being made in a few minutes.

Referring to Fig'. k10, I substitute lor the aforesaid top rest or middle gage a bottom rest, b', which reachesinto the needle-circle, and stands at a-n angle of from thirty to forty degrees to a vertical plane raken through the needle-axis. 1 -also remove the needle-stock N1 from its Jforward to its rear position, as the same would otherwise beliablc to strike against the work or the bottom rest, b. It may be remarked in this connection that the needlestock N1 could be permanently arrangedin its rear position by formin g the same in one piece with the .lever N, or otherwise; but in this case a needle of such length would be required las to lack the necessary stl bility.A I further remove the compound needle-guide and barbprotector t t* from the Jforward recess-in the lever ll to the rear one, then take oil the back guide, a, and the arrangement is completedthat is to say, the machine is adapted i'ordoublino. 'Io this operation, however, an awl is necessary, as above explained. lo this md, I place side by side with the needle-lever N, so as to turn on. the same axis therewith, a lever, (i, which carries the awl-stock in which the awlis fastened in any suitable way, and which is so arranged as to bring` the awl in the same circle as the needle. This awlstock lever 0 is constructed with a cam-slot, Q, which is made to embrace the wrist-pin It, so that this lever also receives its motion therefrom, the slot Q; being,` so shaped as to produce thc proper motion of the awl.

'.ihat part ot' the awl-stock lever() which forms the awl-stock Ol is bent tansversely, as clearly shown at O2, Iiig. 15, so as to bring' the awlreceivin socket in the awl-stock in a correspondingr plane to the socketin the need-lestock .Nl for the reception ot' the needle, the ett'eet oi which is that the relative positions of the needle and awl points remain nnehanged when a change ismadein 'the needle or a-wl;- or, in other words, the pointsot' the two always meet. This result was dilicultoi attainment in former machines, whereas I effeet the same in a simple and effective ma'nncr.

I arrange the awl-stoek lever ingly to the needle-stock lever U correspond- N with relation to the wrist-pin 1t and the necdle-axisfthat is to say, so that the wrist-pin is ltartliest from the needleaxis when the awl pierces the work, :did viceversa. Y p y The wheel S, carrying the 'wrist-pin it, is provided with cogs on its periphery, and gears with a cog-wheel, Si, y(see Figs. 8 and) which', in turni gears with the cogwheel S2,

an oscillating motion vto the lever or levers4 which it carries.

When my machine is to be used for sewing materials of various diierent thicknesses with one and the same seam, l make use of a certain gage mechanism, which is shown in Figs. let and 14%, and whose action is such that when thick material is sewed the needle draws a longer loop or moves farther back than when thin material is sewed, the seam being thus drawn 'similarly tight throughout, while in the forward motion of the needle it always reaches the saine point. v This is accomplished by such an arrangement of parts that when thick stud is sewed the wrist-pin It comes nearer to the needleaxis in its downward movement, during which movement the vretrograde movement of the needle is thereby e'liected, than when thin stud' is sewed, while in the upward movement of the wrist-pin it always reaches the same height. 'llo this end l place on a common axis with the aforesaid levers N 0 T an oscillating gage-lever, Q51, the lower arm, q1, ofwliich forms the gage proper and reaches into thechannel c of the work to sewed, so that this arm or gage adjusts itself inward or outward, according to the thickness of the work. This movenieutis partalien of by the other arm of the lever Q, which is marked g2, and which I terni a f tliuinbarni.77 rihis thumb-arm q2 is bent so as to clear the bearing of the wheel S, which carries the wrist-pin lt, as before stated, and said arin moves toward or away from this bearing, :ic--

cordiiig to the thickness of the material to be sewed, the saine bein g brought nearest thereto in the ease of thick material.

The shaft c, around which the wheel S revolves, passes through a sliding boX,Q2, which moves in guidegrooves formed on the inachine-frame, as shown in Fig. 14, and is subjected to the action or a spring, gi', having a tendency to torce the saine upward. rllie extent of movement of the sliding box @i either upward or downward is regulated by a stop` pin, q, which acts on siiitableshoulders formed on the box.

Between the upper surface of the sliding .box Q? and the end of the thumb-erin g2 is interposed. a reciprocating wedge, n3. This wedge receives a reciprocating motion from au eccentric, Cl, mounted on the main shaftE through a bar, U2,- whicli is connected both to the wedge and to the eccentric. The lmotion of the eccentric G1 is so arranged that when the'wrist-pin It (not shown inlig. 14) moves upward the wedge Q3 is drawn back or out from between the sliding box Q2 and the thumbarm q2, andthe sliding box Q2 is forced up to its full extent by the action of the 'spring q".

This upper position of the sliding box Q2 bcaingalways the same, the needle, the extent of whose movement depends upon thevposition of this box, is always driven forward to thev same extent. ln the downward movementof the wrist-pin R, liowevdr, .the wedge' Q3 is shoved forward between the thu nib-arm q2 and the sliding box Q2, and presses the latter iiiward to a greater or less extent, according to the position of the'thiiiiib-arm q2, whereby the shaft s, together with the wheelA S and wristpin R, is moved toward the need1e-axis.

l t will now be understood that when thick stuft' is sewed the wrist-pm R moves nearest to the needle-airis, the needle moves back to .the greatest extent, and the longcstloop is drawn, and vice versa. y

In Fig. 1S I have shown the manner in which that part of my invention relating to the mechanism for driving the awl and needle is applied to such machines in which anvertieal seam is produced and in which au awl is used for piercing the material.

The thread is conducted from anyiisual or suitable apparatus to a looper' or thread-guide, o, (best seen in Fig. 8; see also Figs. 9, 10, 11,) by which it is carried around the end ot' the needlaand hung in the barb of the latter, as indicated in Fig. 11. This looper is secured to the end of a shaft, V, and has a rotary niotioii around the point of the needle; and, inasmuch as the needle moves forward farther in piercing than in doubling, the needlef being moved farther back duriii g this latter operation, as before-stated while it is necessary tohang the thread in the barb of the needle in either ease, the looper c, besides having rotar-y mo tion around the needle, also has a reciprocating sliding motion in a tangential direction tor 'the needlecircle. When the `heedle penetrates the material to be sewed the looper o stands back and below the needle-circlaas shown in Fig. 8. Before the needle, however, has completed its forward motion the looperv begins its sliding motion in the direction of the needle, and at the same time the shaft V of the looper turns, so that the thread is earried around the protruding portion of the nce-l dle, and is caught by its barb, so as to follow the needle in its retrogrademovement. In the operation of piercing the thread islaid somewhat beyond the barb of the needle, whereas in doubling the thread is just caught by tho barb or hook. The louper 'u remains in .the position last stated till the needle has drawn the thread through the between substances, when it begins to move back, the saine being also caused to rotate iu its return movement, so as to clear the awl or its stock, (when `an awl is used,) which latter in the meantime will have begun its movement.

The motion of the looper is produced in the following manner, referring to Figs. S and 13: The shaft V of the ylooper passes through the main frame ll in an inclined direction, and on the same is secured a grooved segment or head, fu', in which catches a pin, wz, projecting from the lower arm, fw, of alever, W. This lever is arranged on the shaft s, and receives an oscillating motion from a cam groove formed in one side of a disk, C, mounted on the main shaft E, the upper arm, w1," of the lever WV bein provided with a roller, w3, which is fitted in said cam-slot.

The pin @o2 moves in a guide-slot,'10",formed in the machine-frame B, as shown in Fig. 8. By this means I impart a reciprocating -sliding motion to the looper QJ or its shaft; and I make use of this motion to produce the rotary motion of the loop'er, as followsg# The shaft V is surrounded-atei' .nea-rits rear end, at which point it is preferably enlarged or strengthened, by a sectional or two.- part sleeve, V V3, (see Figs. 8 and 16,)whicl1 is fitted and securedin' 4a bearing, V1, arranged on the rear part of the machine-frame. In

leach section'of said sleeve V2 V3 is formed a groove or slot, as shown, the groove in the upper section, V2, extending in a spiral direction throughout its length, while the groove in the lower section, V3, extends lengthwise of the sleeve through a part of its length and spirally through the remainder, the spiral partA ofl this groove having a greater inclination than the groove in Vthe section V2. In said grooves of the sleeve-sections Vz V3 are tted the bent ends of two inwardly-yielding arms .r1 and x2, which are located in a recess formed in the shaft V, and are pivoted at their inner ends, as at l and 2, said arms being, moreover,

subjected to the action of a spring, ai, having atendcncy to press the same apart or .out-

` ward. I can also use two inwardlyyielding pi'ns'n lieu of the' arms :v1 and x2.

When the shaft V moves in the direction of the arrow in Fin'. 8, and the arm ml engages with the spiral groove in the upper sleeve-scc-Y tion, V2, the shaft is caused to turn on its axis by the action of v such groove. During this movement ofthe shaft V the other arni, w, b. trs against the plain inner surface of the lower sleeve-sectiom'V, or, in other words, is out of engagement with its groove; but

, when the shaft V has completed its entire fon ward motion, this arm m2 falls into its groove in the sleeve-section V3, and thus oduces the backward-rotating motion of the shaft, the rectilinear portion of the groove in said lower section, V3, causing the shaft to ge through a l portion of its rear movement without rotation, andthe arm asl being etti .outbf' play, to which end. .sleeve-section. V is made to vanish"on the ino in e time brought ze groove in the ner surface of the latter. I thus causejthe lor shortened.

shaft V and the loopcr to rotate both in their forward and backward movements.

By the groove in the lower sleeve-section, V3, the'looper e is caused to rotate in a different direction when it moves backward than. when it moves forward, and thus clears Jthe awl or its stock.

The feeding of the work is accomplished through the hereinbefore-namedA feed-gage j', whose movement is such that it grasps the material to be sewed at the moment when the needle begins to pull back the thread, and

.then moves laterally in the direction of the length vof the needle-axis,so as to carry the work with it. When it has arrived at the point where the awl or Aneedle pierces the material, the feed-gage f remains 'stationary'until the needle begins its retrograde movement, when the gage releases the work and moves backward. lo this endI thefeed-gage f is attached to the lower' arm of a lever, F, (see Figs. 4, 6, and 7,) which has a common axis v with the needle'and awl levers, and the upper arm of which is connected to the outer'end of a horizontal reciprocating rod, Gr,which 'slid s in bearings gl g2 affixed to the machine-frame, the bearing g1 being 'slotted in a horizontal direction, and the bearing g2 being arranged on a pivot, so that it `is susceptible of rotation.' The object' of this arrangement is to permit the rod G- to' follow the feed-lever F in its lateral movement-namely7 its movement len gthwise of the needle-axis.

On the inner end of the reciprocating rod G is arranged a roller, H, which bears on a' cam, D', formed on the circumference of a disk, D, mounted on the main shaft E, and the rod is .heldin contact with this cam by the action of a spring, g, coiled thereon, as .clearly shown in Fig. 7.

adjustable in length, so as to admi tof a variation in the position of the feed-gage with respect/to the stationary back guide a and adapt the parts to different thicknesses of material.

In the example shown, I accomplish this object by making .the reciprocating rod v("r in three sections\i'hich are connected by a ri ght and left hand screw, so that by simply turning the central section the rod can be lengthened I also connect the feed-lever F to the rod G in such a way that the lever can bc adjusted outward or inward. This adjustment adapts the f ecdgage f for welt-sewin or for doubling, as the case may be.

e The fulcruin of the feed-lever Fis formed by a bar, X, which extends through a sleeve, `which is secured to the machine-frame, and en which. the awl and needle levers are mounted, as shown in Figs. 9,10, 1l, l2. Above this bnr Lx' and parallel thereto, is situated a bar, Y, vwhich is arranged in a tnbularbearing on theA mae @cette has no independe/nt lateral motion on the lower bar, but travels to and fro together with such bar.

The cross-rod y' carries a slotted plate, Z, which is secured thereto by means of a pivot, z2, and a thumb-screw, e, so that it is adjustable. tion that its slot extends in an oblique direction, the degree of which is increased or di,

minished aceordin g to the extent to which it is desired to feed the work, or, in other words, according to the length of the stitch to be made.

luto the slot of the plate Z projects one end of a lever, Z, which oscillates on the shaft s', and is provided with a roller, 21, which is litted in said slot. At its other end this lever Z1 is provided with a roller, 24, whichis fitted in a cam-groove, Z2, formed in one side ofthe disk D.

Vhen the disk D revolves the lever Z1 is oscillated, and the roller z] is caused to move up and down in the slotted plate Z, whereby a lateral motion is imparted to the parallelogramniic frame, before mentioned, and by means thereof to the feed-gagef. a

ln all machines now generally in use the upper is lasted to the insole during the process of scwin g by iron tacks, which are drawn out i ust before the work is sewed and replaced by fine copper taclnsi which are vpressed aside' orcut up by the needle or awl.

I apply to my machine a contrivance for eX- traeting thc tacks by which the upper is lasted to the insole, as stated, whereby the expenditurc of time and money involved in the use of copper tacks is obviated.

For this purpose I make use ota claw, J, `(see Figs. 4 and 7,) lthe shank of which is pivoted in ya slot to the machine-frame, as at 1'., and is secured to one arm of the lever Z1, whileit A extends in such a direction that when in its normal position the claw rests on or immediatelyabove the work, as shown in` Fig. F.

When the work is fed or moved forwardvthe tacks are caught by thelclaw J, and when the lever Z is oseillated the claw is raised, so as to extract the tacks, and then. returned to its normal position, the tack being thrown out of the claw in its descent.

I will now describe how the work is'held during the process of scwin g.

Refern'ng to Figs. 1, 2, and 3, the jack L, for

carrying the last, rests on a horizontal bar, U1, which is preferably bent upward near its opposite ends, so as to give it a U shape, as shown in Fig. 2, and it is susceptible of a swinging motion, the same being. suspended This plate Z is adjusted to such a posi-v t'rom, a rope, lll', which is connected thereto at its extremities. rEhe object of giving the bar U1 a U shapc'is to bring the points at which it is hung as nearly as possible in ahorizontal plane with the point where the sewing, takes place, whereby increased facility is obtained for guiding the work.

The rope M extends from either end of the bar U1 cver a pulley, K., or K1, thence downward and over pulleys L Ll. or L2 L3, and, finally, around a pulley, K, from which is suspended a weight, M, so that by the latter' an upward pressure is exerted on the bar U1 as well as on the jack and the last which- -it carries, which has the effect of maintaining' the work in contact with the sewing mechanism ,without the aid of the operator, leaving him free tov turn the work about as required, ac-

cording to its shape or contour, as the operay tion proceeds.

It is obvious that a s prin g can be substituted for the weight M.

Thejack L4 is pivoted to the bar U, as shown, so that the same is capable of any desirable motion in a horizontal direction, thus enabling the workman to turn the work as h e sees t. When the work is moved in thedircetion of length of the last, the bar Ul partakes of this movement; and, in order to obviate the liability of a disengagement o the cord M with the pulleys K K1 during this movement, the latter are mounted in horizontally-swiveled frames K2 K3, projecting fromI brackets K4 K5, which are secured to the bearing of the main shaft E. The work to be sewcd also rests against an auxiliary gage/in, (see Fig. 1,) which is provided with a broad perpendicular face, and is attached to one end of a shaft, m1, which passes through the center line, or nearly so, vot the machine-frame, having its bearing therein, and is pressed against the work by a spring, m3. The shaft ml of the gage carries a loose collar, m2, which extends within the frame, and is provided with a flange, a?, while it is divided or slotted about midway of this flange. The liange a2 rests with its lower surface upon abearin g iirml y attached tothe machine-frame, and upon its upper surface acts a lever, I,

which bears upon the flange and compressesA the collar m2, so as to lock the gage-shaft lmi' when the needle or awl is performingits function, whereas the lever is lifted, so as to rclease the collar, when the auxiliar gage is to yield to the shape of the-work. y

The lever l is pressed upon the flange a2 by the cam-surface of the disk l), on which the upper arm of the lever, which is provided with a.roller, bea-rs, while the lever is lifted by the action ofthe spring Il, connected thereto. The locking of the auxiliary gage can also be accomplished by a wedge, m5, as shown in Fi g. 17, this wedge being arran ged in contact with an incline arrangech at-the rear end of the gage-shaft ml, and being connected to a lever, l2, which is actuated by a suit-able cam, I

against which it is pressed bya spring` l, so

that at therequisite periods the wedge m3 is brought in contact with theincline and withdrawn, s o as to lockand release the gage.

-That I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent. is

1. In a boot and shoe sewing machine, thc combination ot` the stitch-forming devices, the rigid combined back and welt guide a, yielding feed-gage f, and oscillating lever F, and

mechanism, substantially as described, for operating said lever, substantially as and forthe purposes set forth.

2. The combinationot' the stitch-forming devices, the combined back and welt guide-a, top rest b, and yielding feed-gage f, lever F, cam D, and connecting mechanism, substantially as described, and the feed-operating mechanism, as set forth.

twov shanks, and extends radially tothe .needle-axis, with the iced-lever F, substan.

tia-ily as described. y

5. In a boot or shoe sewing machine having a curved barbed needle, the combination, with the oscillating slotted lever N, of a needle-stock which is adjustable concentrically to the axis of the needle-circle, substan: tially as specified, so that the point of contact ofthe needle with ,the work can be altered without altering the position of the lever, substantially' as described. A

6. In a boot or shoe sewing machine hav.

ing a curved barbed needle, the combination ot an oscillating lever, T, one arm of which `carries the compound needle-guide and barbprotector t t, and the other arm ot' which is provided with a cani-slot, U, with a wrist-pin which is tted in said cani-slot, and mechanism for giving motion to said wrist-pin, the

whole being adapted to operate substantially` as described.

7. The combination of the oscillating lever T, provid-ed wit-h. the compound needle-guide and barb-protector, and the cam-slot U, having the segmental enlargement Ul and stop yu?, witlrthe counter-stop ul, spring n, and wristpin- R, substantiallyr as'described.

8. The combination, with the oscillating lever T, of a needle-guide, t, which is adjustable concentrically to the axis of-the needlecircle, substantially as specified, so aste ce. cupy the proper position relatively -to the needle, substantially as described;-

9. The combination of thebscillating lever T, substantially as speciiied, provided with the radial soc as shown, with the needle-guide t, provid di with a shank adapted to fit and be inserted into eitheroi'esaid sockets, as required, for the purpose set forth.

l0. The combination, with the -oscillating needle-stock lever N,the needle-guide lever T, and awl-stock lever O, of a wrist-pin, It, arranged to communicate motion to said levers from 'the main shaft of the machine, substantia-ily as described.

ll. The combination, with the oscillating needle-stock lever N and oscillatingaWl-stock lever O, having the needle and awl secured thereto, respectively, and provided with the cam-slots P and Q, of the wrist-pin R, arranged relatively to the needle-axis, substantially' asv4 described, so that said wrist-pin is nearest to said axis when the needlel or awl is ont of the Work, and farthest from said axis when the purpose `set forth.

12. The combination, with the oscillating needle-stock. lever N of the awl-stock` lever 0, each having a cam-slot, substantially as destantially as described, for operating the same, said wrist-pin projecting through both of said cam-slots, and mechanism, substantially as described, forcontrollingthe position of the wristpin in relation to the axes of said levers, whereby when thick stuil is being sewed the needle has a different or longer retrograde movement than .when thin stuff is scwcd, while in its forwardiniovement the needle always reaches the same point, as set forth.

13, The combination, with the wrist-pin R and the axis on which it turns, of a sliding box, Q2, spring Q3, stop g4, reciprocating wedge Q3, eccentric- C, connecting-bar c, and gagelever Q`a1l adapted to operate ysubstantially as described, and` for the object specified.

14. The combination, in a sewing-machine, ot the reciprocating curved barbed needle and the looper e, and mechanism for actuating the rocking motion is imparted thereto, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

lil/The combination, with the stitch-forniing mechanism of a sewing-machine,of the lon gitudinally-reciproeating lcoper'v andincchanism, substantially as described, 'whereby a diierent rotary motion is given to said looperon its return from that imparted to it on 'its forward movement.

16. The combination of theV looper yr, its shatt Y thel head fo', the lever W, the lscctional.- sleeve V2 V3, and its spiral grooves, the iuwardly-yieldin g aiis or pins a and m2, and the spring m, all` adapted to operate substan- /tially as described.

17 The combination, with the oscillating feed F, 'of alongitudinal reciprocating rod,G,\ slotted bearing g1, pivoted bearing g?, and spiral spring g, all adapted to operate substantially as and for the purpose described. f 18. Theherein-described mechanismibrpro- -ducing the lateral motion of the feed-lever and feed-gage, consisting of the horizontal par needle 'or awl pierces the work, as and for the 4 scribed, of the wrist-pin R, mechanism, sub` same, wherebya compound reciprocating and ale'l bars X Y, the cross-rods y1 ya, the oblique slotted plate Z, and the lever Z, and the cam rfor operating said lever, the whole bein g Aoombined and adapted to operate snbstantialiyas described.

`19. The combination, with the vibrating 1ever Z and feeding;- mechanism, of the claw J, substantially as described.

20. In a boot or shoe sewing machine having a curved barbed' needle, the coinbin ation, with .the feed and sewing mechanism, of a swinging support composed oi the jack L, horizontal i bar U1, rope M', connected to said bar, the pnlleysK K' L Ll L2 L3, and -the Weight M or its equivalent, the Whole being' combined and adapted to operate substantially as dcsoribed.

In testimony that I claim the ibregoing have hereunto set my hand and seal this 20th day ot' February, 1878. HERMANN C. GROS.

Witnesses:

JNO. E. GARDiN, R. M. JACKSON.

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