US404448A

US404448A - teehaen

Info

Publication number: US404448A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1889-06-04
Anticipated expiration: 1906-06-04

Description

3 Sheets-Sheet 1;

J. L. TREHARNQ SHOE SEWINGMAGHINE.

(No Model.)

No. 404,448. Patented June 4, 1889..

N. PETERSw Phololiihoghpflu, Wil ingian D. C.

3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(No Model.)

J. L. TREHARN. SHOE SEWING MACHINE Patented June 4, 1889.

Nv FETIRS PIMuUlhngnpMr. Wahiniion, IlC.

. UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH L. TREl-IARN, OF CINCINNATI, OHIO, ASSIGNOR OF T WO-TI-IIRDS TO JOSEPH S. BLACKER AND GUSTAVE GERS'ILE, BOTH OF SAME PLACE.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 404,448, dated June 4, 1889.

Application filed May 9, 1887. Renewed April 19, I889. Serial No.30'7,886- (N0 model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JOSEPH L. TREHARN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Oincinnati, in the county of Hamilton and State of Ohio, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoe-Sewing Machines; and I do declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

My invention, as herein set forth, relates to improvements in shoe-sewing machines, and especially to a machine for sewing the buttonhole cord fast to the inside of the fly or flylining between the button-l1oles.

fll1e invention comprises the mechanism herein set forth and claimed.

The improvet shoe-fly herein described forms the subject-matter of a separate application, SerialNo. 252,49 9, filed October 15, 1887 Previous to my invention in making shoeflies a cord has been run around the margin of the button-hole, forming a loop, and the bu tton-hole worked by working by machinery over and around this cord-loop. Then the cord was led to the next button-hole, run

around its margin, when the button-holeworking machine worked over and around this loop and secured it in place, when the cord was led to the succeeding hole, and the above operation continued until all of the holes had been worked. By the said operation the cord was not secured in place between the adjacent button-holes, and it was necessary to afterward sew it in place. This portion of the cord has previously been sewed fast to the fly-lining by hand and by a whipstitch, which was stitched through the inside piece of the fly only, and hence did not show on the outside of the finished shoe. The cord could be stitched in place with an ordinary sewing-machine making a zigzag stitch by sewing clear through both portions of the fly; but this would cause the seam to appear on the exterior of the finished shoe, which is not desirable, as it would spoil the appearance of the shoe. V

The object of my invent-ion, as herein set forth, is to devise means whereby the buttonhole cord can be sewed in place between the adjacent button-holes by a sewing-machine, and so that the seam which so secures the cord may not appear on the exterior of the finished shoe. To this end I have devised the improvements in shoe-sewing machines herein described, and shown in the drawings next referred to.

Figure 1 is a left side view of the principal parts of the machine, the mechanism below the table 154, and which is common to other sewing-machines, not being shown, and portions being in section along the lines nm' and 3 y, Figs. 2 and 16. Fig. 2 is a front View of the machine above the table 154, portions being shown in section along the vertical line 1), Figs. 1 andlet. Fig. 3 is a plan view of parts related in position and operation to the needle. Fig. 4c is a side view, Fig.

5 a projected frontend View, and Fig. 6 another side view, (projected from Fig. 5,) of the hook used in this machine, and which is an improvement upon similar hooks previously used in other sewing-machines, and well knownin theart. Figs. 7,8, 9, 10,11, and

12 show this hook in different positions while I making the stitch, and show the manner in which the thread is looped, twisted, and drawn in the operation of making a stitch. Figs. 13, 14, 15, and 16 show details of the machine. Fig. 17 shows the stitch and the manner in which it is made. Fig. 18 shows the left half of the portion of the shoe, (for the left' foot,) which is manipulated while the button-hole cord is being sewed by my improved machine. Fig. 19 shows a similar portion of a right shoe and shows the inside por- 0 tion f of the fly the fly-lining-and the cord 0 in the position occupied when secured in place by working the button-holes by buttonhole-working machines and by sewing between the holes with my improved cord-sew- 5 ing machine: The cord 0 makes one loop around the button-hole and is crossed at the base d of the hole, as shown clearly in Fig.

22. Fig. 20 is a view projected from the sectionon the line 0' o of Fig. 19, showing the Ice relative position of the supporting part of the machine 41, the button-hole fly f and the fly-lining f, the cord 0, and the operatingline it n of the needle. (Remember that Fig. is a back view of the fly-section at o 0', Fig. 19, and as seen when looking in the direction of the arrow 0 Fig. 21. shows the inside of the fly-lining where the cord 0 has been sewed in place with a whip-stitch and by hand. Fig. 22 is a similar view of a fiylining where the cord 0 has been sewed with a straight-stitched seam by ineans f my machine. Figs. 23 to 29 shownneanslor making a staggering or zigzag stitch. Fig. 23 is a front view of the needle-bar framing and parts related thereto, and Fig. is a left side view of the same. Fig. 25 is a bottom view of parts shown in Fig. 23, and Figs. 20, 27, and 28 show details. Fig. 29 shows a modification of the hook Fig. 30 is an enlarged perspective view of the loop -15, and Fig. 31 is an enlarged end view of the same.

In Figs. 1, 2, 23, and 24L the needle is shown in its lowest position.

The same letters or numbers designate the same parts in different figures.

The stitch made by my niachineis called a chain-stitch, and is the same as made by the well known \Villcox & Gibbs sewingqnachine, and the hook 9 shown in Figs. l, 5, and G is similar to the one used in that machine.

9 is the hook-body; 1, the thread-catching hook or hook end; 2, the thread loop-spreading portion; 3, the hook back; l, the thread notch 5, a ehamfered surface which acts to throw the back side of the thread-loop forward, as explained in connection with Figs. 11 and 12; ti, a corner which passes behind the back portion of the thread-loop and direets it onto the chamfered surface 5, as 111- dicated in Figs. 11 and 12.

8 is the termination of the central wall I), (seen entire in Fig. l and in edge view 111 Flgs 5 to 12,) and along which a portion ot the thread-loop slips and is guided, as seen in h l 12. l gis a shallow hole made in the wall to prevent the point of the needle from striking the latter, and 12 is a stem by which thehook is secured in place in the (lll\"ll1g:Sll;tfl7. I

he part 10 is a portion of a disk which is made separate and set llllOEtlltl soldered or otherwise secured to the body of the hook and the part 11, which latter is preferably made integr. l with the hook-body, and which is a feed-stroke cam for pushing the upper end of the feedyoke 23 backward at the same time that the feed-yoke-lifting cam 2) ra1ses the yoke, whereby the feedingsurface is propelled backward w thin the groove g. lhe object of the disk 10 is to protect the threadloop and keep it away from the teed-yoke. 'lhestraightstitch and themethodot form ni it, are shown in Fig. 1.7, where the arrow r indicates the direction the material is fed, and the arrow r indicates the advance of the seam. In the uniform portions of theseam the thread is shown as pushed downward at, a, forming loops Z, which are drawn parallel to the upper thread (Z, and each loop Z has the portion. n (or loop it) of the next succeeding loop Z run through its extremity or front end in a manner such as to tie the thread of each stitch about the portion of the material embraced by the stitch.

The forward loop Z is shown drawn outand downward, and the operation illustrated shows the needle 02 moving downward, as indicated by the arrow 0", carrying the thread (Z downward into what I shall term here and in connection with Figs. 7 to 12 loop a. As the needle 91 moves farther, it carries the loop to down through the extremity of the loop Z, as indicated by the dotted position 71. of the needie and a of the loop 21.. \Vhen the loop 10 is in position ta it is caught and held by the hook end 7, as shown in Fig. 9, while the loop Z is ready to be released by the hook, and as soon as released is drawn into posit ion Z, as is shown as being done in Fig. 10.

Fig. 29 shows a modification of the hook adapted to work in a machine where the neodle is vibrated from side to side in making a zigzag chain-stitch by the mechanism shown in Figs. 23 to 2S. Here the hook is widened from the position 3 l (shown dotted) to the position 3 t, which throws the notch 45 farther from the center than the notch al: in the hook shown in Fig. 5. This change of proportion is made in order that the left and front side of the loop Z will be thrown farther to the left, as indicated by the arrow 9' to the position Thisis necessary when the needle is vibrated, since its point is then guided slightly to the left of the center line it n of needleinotion when theneedlemoves in a straight line, as in Figs. 1, 2, 14, and 16, and 7 to 12.

In Fig. 7 the loop Z is shown held by the central portion of the loop 9 and resting in the notch 4, while the needle or is just starting down carrying the second loop to.

In Fig. 8 the loop Z is partly spread outby the thick central part of the hook 9, as seen in side view in Fig. 4, and the needle "n is shown as having penetrated this spread-out loop and as being in its lowest position, and the hook as having rotated sn lliciently to hook into the loop a.

In Fig. 9 the hook has rotated farther and caught a and held it d uringfurther rotation and the ascent of the needle, theloop Z being still held in the notch land is seen partly twisted around forward toward hand.

In Fig. 1.0 the loop a is shown as being drawn downward by the hook end 7, and the loop 7 as having been freed from the notch 4 and as being drawn upward and into position. The back part of the loop Z is so drawn forward toward the needle-hole n, Fig. 11, that the forward corner (3 of the portion of the hook on the opposite side from the end 7 passes in its rear, as seen about to occur in Fig. 11, and the chamfered part 5 and the rounded front of the part (i S throws the back the right portion of the loop Z forward, gradually twisting it, as seen in Fig. 12, the forward portion of the loop slipping from the front, as in Fig. 11, to the back, as in Fig. 12, where it is seen in contact with the flat portion 9 of the hook. Further rotation of the hook brings the (now) front portion of the loop Z into the notch 4, when therelative positions of the hook and loop Z )are the same as at the beginning, (in Fig. 7.

In Figs. 1 and 2, 154 is the machine-table, 125 the lower base, 124 the upper base, and 126 the frame-arm. The frame-arm 126 supports the needle-head62 69, which carries and guides the presser-foot bar and the needle bar in the usual manner.

The thread-hook (shown in Figs. 4, 5, and 6) is carried at the extremity of a shaft, 39, Figs. 1, 2, and 14, which is shown set at an angle to the vertical line of motion n of the needle, and at an angle of thirty degrees to the horizontal plane through the point where the stitch is formed. A machine now in use has the shaft 39 set at an angle of about twenty degrees to the said plane. The shaft 39 is protected and supported by what I call a horn 41 42, or casing, which covers the sides and top of the shaft, and has bearings 40 and 59, in which the shaft turns, and the horn is secured at its base by its flange 57 and screws 58 to the front 60 of the lower base 125.

The shaft 39 extends backward and downward into the space between the front flange 60 and back flange 6050f the lower base 125,

and has a step bearing in the projection 120, which may be cast to or otherwise secured to the base 125. Grooved pulleys 108 and 109 are secured to the shaft 39 within this space. Guide-pulleys 111 and 112 are supported beneath the table 154 by means of brackets 115, which are held in place and may be adjusted by means of screws and wing-nuts 116, one bracket only being shown.

117 is a portion of the rim of the usual balance and belt wheel, which is supported in the usual manner, and provided with suitable treadle and pitman-rod (not shown) or pulleys for a belt when the machine is to be driven by power. The belt 110 passes over the wheel 117 and the pulleys 108 or 109 and 111 and 112, whereby the shaft 39 is driven. An eccentric 106 107 011 the shaft 39, contiguous to the pulley 108, has a rod 98, which connects by a ball-and-soeketjoint 97 105 with the short arm 96 of the bell-crank 95 96, which is pivoted to the stud 100 projecting from the base 124. A rock-shaft 87 is carried in bear ings 88 and 89 at the side of the frame-arm 126, and a crank 90 91 on its rear end is provided with a ball-bearing 103 for the connectin g-rod 93, having socket-bearing 92 at its upper end and connecting with the longer arm 95 of the bell-crank 95 96 by the ballandsocket joint 104 94. A crank 77 74 on the front end of the shaft 87 has a pin 75 connecting it with the rod or link 74, which is pivoted at its other end to a collar 68, fastened to the needle-bar 72.

From the preceding description it is seen that the thread-hook shaft 39 and the needlebar 72 are simultaneously operated by means of the pulleys 109 111,- and the other described mechanism by the belt 110 from the ordinary belt-wheel 117.

71, Figs. 1 and 2, is the presser-foot bar, 66 a collar fastened onto 71, and 78 a presser-spring secured by the screw 80 to the lug 81 on the top ,of the frame-arm 126, and provided with an adjusting-screw 79, the forked end of the spring 78 engaging corresponding notches and 84 is a lever pivoted at 83 to the framearm 126, and whose front end 72 engages the collar 67, while a rod 86, which connects to its rear end 85, leads to a suitable point beneath the table 154, where it connects with a treadle, by means of which it and the end are depressed, thus raising the foot-bar 71 when itis desired to raise the presser-footfrom the work or to introduce work. The presserspring 78 keeps the presser-foot down upon the work being sewed.

The projecting end of the horn is shaped to accommodate the inclosed mechanism and to occupy the least possible space, and to present continuous on rved exterior surfaces, over which the shoe-fly may be moved and guided in the operation of sewing the button-hole cord to the fly-lining. Its top is rounded crosswise, as shown in Figs. 2 and 16, and extends back a short distance, as seen in Figs. 1 and 14. Its sides are vertical, as shown in Figs. 12 and 16, and its upper surface is rounded backward and downward until it becomes continuous with the inclined back 41, as shown in Figs. 1 and 14, while the front ends of the vertical sides 42 are rounded off at 43, Figs. 1 and 14. In the construction shown in Figs. 1, 2, 14, and 16 the central part of the top end portion of the horn is cut away for a needleplate 18, Figs. 1, 3, 13, 14, and 16, having ledges 15, Figs. 13 and 16, which seat on shoulders 19, Figs. 14 and 16, and is secured in place by the screw 17. The needle-plate 18 is shown separate in Fig. 13. It has a groove g between upwardly-projecting and backwardly extending ledges 14, Figs. 1, 3, 14, and 16, within which the crease along. the fly-seam is guided while the button-hole cord is being sewed to the'fly-lining, as shown in cross-section in Fig. 20. V

A hole a Figs. 3,13, and 14, is made through the center of the groove g for the needle n, Fig. 1, and a slot 3, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 13, 14, 16, and 20, is cut in the rear of the needle-hole n for afeed-tongue 22, Figs. 14 and 16. The front end of the needle-plate 18 terminates in anose 16, Figs. 1, 13, and 14, which is designed to operate in conjunction with the button-hole fly-guides described, as means for directing the work properly in place. I

A fee'd-yoke-lifting cam 29 isshown formed on the front end of the shaft 39, but which could be made separate and attached thereto, and has the shape shown clearly in Figs. 14 and 15, Fig. 15 being an end view projected from Fig. 14 on the center line 00 cc of the shaft 39.

31 is a hole in the end of the shaft or cam, (shown dotted at 31, Fig. 14,) in which the stem 12 of the thread-hook 9 is inserted and secured. This stem 12 is cut away on the side, as shown in Fig. 6, and a screw (not shown) is screwed into the shaft or earn 29 and bears against the fiat side of the stem 12, and thus secures itin place.

23, Figs. 1, 2, 14, and 16, is a feed-yoke having a tongue 22 at its upper end,whieh works in the slot sin the needle-plate 18, and has the notched feed-surface 20, adapted to engage the button-hole fly and move it backward when the feed-yoke is vibrated.

The feed-yoke 23 has side branches 25,whi.ch straddle the lifting-cam 29, and fit and are guided by the insides of the vertical walls 42 of the horn end, and they have slots 26,-which permit them to slide upon a pivotal rod 27, held at its ends in the horn sides 42. A rod 28 connects the lower ends of the branches 25, and a spring r, Figs. 1, 2, 14, and 16, connected to the rod 28 and to a screw in the bearing-block 40, draws this red, and thus the lower end of the feed-yoke 23 backward and downward, and at the same time forces the tongue 22 forward. It is seen that the acting surface of the lifting-cam 29 has varying radii, and that contact with the feed-yoke body 23 is made on its upper surface and in the line 4; n, which is more or less horizontal.

The feed-yoke is shown in its lowest position in Figs. 14 and 16, and where the shortest radius of the feed-lift cam 29 is uppermost. \Vhen the shaft 39 rotates, the projecting side of the cam 29 pushes the feedyoke upward until its acting surface projects through the slot 3 into the groove g in the needle-plate 18. At the same time the feed-stroke cam 11, Figs. 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 14, and 16, comes into engagement with the front sun face of the yoke 23 above the lifting-cam 29, whereby the yoke is forced backward, carrying the feed-surface from the position 20 to "that of 21, Fig. 14.

35 is a feed-regulator pivoted at 36 within the slot 37, cut in the end of the bearing-bloek 40, as seen in Figs. 1, 2, 14, and 16, and has an end 33 adapted to bear against the back of the left branch of the feed-yoke, and has a finger-piece 34 projecting sufiiciently below the horn side 41 to be caught by the fingers and moved about the pivot 36, which is done to vary the stroke of the feed-tongue 22. \Vhen the end 33 of the feed-regulator is thrown up, it permits the lower end of the yoke to be drawn farther back by the spring and its tongue 22 to be thrown farther forward; but as the end 33 of the feed-regulator is depressed the throw of the feed-surface 20 is diminished.

In Figs. 1 and 2, 53 is the fastening and supporting portion of the presser-foot piece 52, and is attached to the lower end of the presser-foot bar 71 by means of a slot 64 and a pin 63. The piece 52 extends backward and then to the right in rear of the needle-bar 72, where it bends downward and is provided with a presser-foot 48, having two forwardlyextending button-hole-cord guides 47, between which there is a slot 46, Fig. 3, within which the cord rises. A loop of wire or thin strip of metal 45 has its ends soldered or otherwise suitably attached at the point a, say, Figs. 1 and 31, to the ends of the foot projections 47, the loop 45 preferably having a rounded nose 45, as seen in Figs. 3,30, and 31, and which with the guides 47 straddle the button hole cord, as indicated at c, Fig. 31, and guide it in the straight line 6 6, Fig. 3, while the groove g in the top of the needle-plate 1.8, with its ledges 14, guides the parallel crease formed adjacent the fiy-seam by bending the fly-lining, and as shown in cross-section in Fig. 20.

The loop 45 is preferably made as shown in Figs. and 31, where the nose is cut out underneath at the end at 45, and the adjacent lower edges, are flared outward downwardly, as at 45 The central upper portion of the piece 52 has notches 50, Fig. 1, on its sides, into which are fitted the upper ends 53, Fig. 2, of the fly-guides 43, which preferably extend the entire length of the presser-foot, and have heels 49 extending in the rear of the presser foot and toes 44 extending forward of the cord-loop 45 and curved outward, as shown in Fig. 3. The lower edges of the fiy-guards 43 are horizontal and are held parallel to the parallel ledges 14 on the needle-plate 18, while the guardbodies flare outward upwardly and unite with the pendent supports 55,including the spaces 4' and s between them and the central vertical portion 56 of the presser-foot piece 52, which are provided for the free passage of the upwardly-extending portion (seen in Fig. 20) of the button-hole fly when the latter is being fed backward under the needle.

In Fig. 2 the lower portion of the needlebar 72 is broken away in order that the construction of the

parts

52, 56, and may be clearly shown.

In Fig. 1 the lower end of the needle-bar is shown made conical. This is to prevent its catching and doubling the upwardly-extending button-hole margin of the fly as it descends, as in the line or 'n, Fig. 20.

Referring now to Figs. 23 to 29, where the ,means are shown which enable the zigzag stitch to be made, 62, 65, 69, 71, 77, 74, 73, 74, and 75 designate the same parts shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Here the need1e-bar 7 2 is provided at its lower end with a movable extension 152, which is cut away at the sides, as shown at 151, Fig. 23, and dotted in Fig. 24, so as to leave a tongue 153, and the needle bar has a slot cut in its lower end to receive the tongue 153, as shown by the dotted lines ITS in Figs. 23 and 24, and a pin 150 pivots this extension to the needle-bar. At a suitable place below the pivot 150 a pin is passed through the extension 152, and its ends are made to project beyond the sides of the extension ;-or separate pins may be placed opposite and centered with the pin 150, as shown in Fig. 23. The lower end of this extension is tapered for the purpose stated in connection with Fig. 1. A cam ratchet-wheel 146, Figs. 23, 24, 25, 27, and 28,.has a central hole through which the needle-bar 7 2 works. The upper portion of the wheel has ratchet-teeth 139 and a pawl 137 pivoted to the end of the swinging arm 132, which is pivoted at 133 to the head-piece 65, engages the teeth 139 by its detent and propels the wheel around the needle-bar when the arm 132 is vibrated by suitable connection with the needle-bar. The said parts are so proportioned that each swing of the arm 132 toward the right propels the wheel 146 one pitch, and therim 154 on the under side of the wheel has depressions 145, alternating with raised or even portions 140, and the ratchet-teeth 139 are so related to the portions 145 and 140 that every other advance of the wheel one tooth brings an elevation 140 on, say, the left side, Fig. 23, of the needle-bar and in line with the pin 149 on the extension 152, and so that every intervening advance of the wheel one tooth brings a depression 145 into the same position and as shown in Figs. 23, 24, and 25.

The arm 132 is provided with a slot 131,in which a frictionaoller 127 plays, and which is mounted on a screw-pin 130, having a hearing 128 for the roller and a screw end 129, Figs. 23 and 24, which screws into the front of the collar 68, which is attached to'the needle-bar 7 2 and which is connected by the rod 7 4 to the crank-pin 75. I

The arm 132 is partly broken away in Fig. 24 to show the above construction. The slot 131 is made at an angle to the vertical, as

shown in Fig. 23, and is proportioned to the stroke of the needle-bar and the pitch of the teeth on the ratchet-wheel 146, the throw of the pawl 137 being slightly greater than the pitch of a tooth to insure engagement of de-' tent and tooth. As the needle-bar ascends the roller 127 forces the arm 132 to the left, and as it descends it forces the arm to the right. The wheel is shown in the position occupied when it acts upon the pin 149 to throw it into the position shown in Fig. 23; but the needle is down, and the position of the pin 149, when being operated upon by the camratchet, is indicated by dotted outline 149 in Figs. 23 and 24.

In order that the needle may be thrown into the position shown in Fig. 23, a depression 145 must have been at the extreme left, as shown in Figs. 23 and 25, as the needle-bar ascended, for the pawl is simply drawn back during the ascent of the needle-bar and only moves the tooth forward during its descent, and hence the depression 145 would have to be in the position shown, as the pin 149' approached it in order to be tilted to the position shown in Fig. 23. As the needle-bar subsequently descends to the position shown in Fig. 23, the arm 132 is forced to the right, so

' that when the machine is operated an elevation 140 will be brought into the extreme left position as the needle-bar descends to the position shown in Fig. 23. The spring 135, attached at 134 to the end of the arm 132, is intended to keep the pawl 137 in engagement with the wheel 146. i

147 is a spring held by a screw-head 148, the screw being screwed into the bottom of the head-piece 69, and it serves, by friction or by intercepting the ratchet-teeth of the wheel 146, to prevent the wheel from being rotated backward as the pawl 137 is withdrawn.

The ratchet-wheel 146 may be retained against the under side of the part 69 in various ways. One is shown in Figs. 23 and 25, where 69 is the end of a fork attached to the side of the part 69 by a screw 7 O, the fork extending beneath the part 69' and the ratchet-teeth, and having its prongs straddling the portion 154, Figs. 27 and 28, as indicated by the dotted position n Fig. 25, the prongs being shown broken oft in order that the other portions may be more clearly seen.

Vhen a staggering stitch is to be made, the proportions of the thread-hook must be changed in order that the hook may operate harmoniously with the vibrating needle. In the hook shown in Fig. 29 the hook-back is extended from 3 to 3, and the thread-notch 4 is moved farther from the center to the position '4, whereby the hook is thickened, as indicated by the dotted line 3 4 (corresponding to the edge 3 4 in Fig. 5) and the border line 3 4 of the modified hook. WVith the former proportions the front side of the loop would occupy the dotted position I; but with the latter it is thrown farther toward the left,

so as not to interfere with the needle as it descends and when it is vibrated toward the left, as shown in Fig. 23. For this stitch the needle-hole n of Figs. 13 and 14 must be widened, as shown at n, Fig. 26.

By the above-description it will be seen that Figs. 23 to 29 show a modification of sewing-machine mechanism whereby the needle may be alternately vibrated from one side to the other as the seam is being run, and hence a zigzag stitch may be produced which is well adapted to stitch the button-hole-fly cord to the fly-lining in the manner herein set forth.

The method of operating the machine scarcely need be mentioned to one familiar with shoe-sewing machines after reading the above description; but to this end I will add that the operator takes the quarter of the left upper (say) shown in Fig. 18, and raising the presser-foot bar and attachments from the needle-plate by pressing his foot upon the treadle connected to the rod 86, and introduces the end w of the fly, Fig. 18, between the fly guides 43 and so that the portion embracing the button-holes will pass to the left of the presser-foot center 56 and into the space i between the latter and the left fiy-guide 43, and as indicated in Fig. 20, and so that the crease formed by bending the flylining, as shown in Fig. 20, will run in the groove g in the needle-plate 1S, and so that the cord end enters the loop 45 on the presserfoot when the latter is lowered and stands between the cord-guideset? when the machine is started and the feed commences to draw the material backward. 'hen the work has been properly introduced, the machine will feed the fly and continue the stitching automatically until the horn end 43 reaches the top or termination 10 of the buttoh-hole fly, sewing the work advances the continuous button-hole cord runnin tangent to the bases (1' of the button-holes, as seen in Fig. 1.9, fast to the inside of the fly-lining by a seam whose stitches pass through the fly-lining only. The presser-footis then raised and the quarter (say) of the right upper is introduced. The button-hole portion of whose fly, however, must then be introduced at the right side of the needle and made to enter the space .2, Fig. 2, between the fiy-guide t3 and the presser-center 56, when the machine is started and its cord sewed in place, as before.

The following claims relate to a shoe-sewing machine adapted to sew or tack the button-hole cord on button-flies to the fl y-linin g; but for simplicity commence with the clause in a shoe-sewing machine.

I claim 1. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a stitchforming mechanism operating-shaft extending at an angle to the line of needle motion and backward under the bracket supporting the needle-bar and inclined downward from the stiteh-formin g point, a reciprocatingneedle-bar supported and guided by suitable framing, the eccentric 100 107 on the inclined driving-shaft, rod 98, bell-crank 95 96, rod 93, and rock-shaft S7, housed approximately in line with the needle-bar bracket 126 and suitably connected with and operating the needle-bar and needle in conjunction with the stitch mechanism operated by the said inclined shaft, substantially as set forth.

2. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of the supporting and guiding projecting frame part, horn or post described, upon and over which the work is guided, a presserfoot having a f orwardly-extendin g cord-guiding device with a recess or space in which the button -hole cord is guided, and suitable stitclrformin g mechanism having a needle working through the top of the said projecting frame part, substantially as set forth.

3. In a shoe-sewing machine, thecombination of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a presserfoot having forward]y-extending rigid cordguides between which the button-hole cord is guided, and suitable stitch-forming mechanism having a needle working through the top of the said projecting frame part, the said guide as being connected in front and having an end gap, as i5, in front on the under side, substantially as set forth.

4. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a proj ectin g horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a presserfoot having a forwardly-extendin g cordguiding device provided with a recess or space between its sides, a gap at its extremity, as 45, for guiding the cord, and adjacent downwardly and outwardly flared or projecting parts, as 45", and suitable stitch-formin g mechanism having a needle working through the top of the said projecting frame part, substantially as set forth.

5. In a shoe-sewing machine having a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, and in combination with the needle plate and stitch forming mechanism thereof, the presser-foot having the upright central portion 56, and the button-hole-fiy guides 43, attached to the upright. portion of the presser-foot, one on either side thereof, and having their guidin '-su rfaces extending near to and parallel with the presscrfoot, whereby spaces i .2 are provided between the fly-guides and the upright portion of the presser-foot for the passage of the button-ho1e flies, substantially as set forth.

6. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a prcsserfoot having a recessed button-hole-cord guide, detachable button-hole-fly guides having guiding-surfaces extending in proximity to the presser'foot and being attached to the presser-foot part above the space provided for the passage of the button-hole fly, and suitable stitch-forming mechanism having a nee- ,dle working through the top of the said proj ecting frame part, substantially as set forth.

7. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a stitchforming mechanism drivingshaft housed .within the said projecting frame part, a cam.

on the said shaft for lifting the feed device, another cam on the shaft for giving the said device a feed-stroke, a feed device having a slot or opening penetrated by the said shaft and guided by the parts around the said slot or opening and upon the shaft, a spring for replacing the feed device, and a pressor-foot. opposing and acting with the feed device, substantially as set forth.

8. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a supporting and guiding 'n'ojecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a stitchforming mechanism drivingshaft housed within the said projecting frame part, a cam on the said shaft for lifting the feed device,

' another cam on the shaft for giving the said device a feed-stroke, a feed device having a slot or opening penetrated by the said shaft and guided by its slotted part upon the latter, a spring for replacing the feed device,

pivot-bearings for the body of the feed device, providing means for both the upward and backward movement induced by the said cams and spring, and a presser-foot opposing and acting with the feed device, substantially as set forth.

9. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a stitchforming mechanism driving shaft housed within the said projecting frame part, a cam on the said shaft for lifting the feed device, another cam on the shaft for giving the said device a feed-stroke, a feed device having a slot or opening penetrated by the said shaft and guided by its slotted part upon the lat ter, pivot-bearings for the body of the feed device, and a spring connected to the feed device and some stationary part, as the said framing, and acting to turn the feed device about its pivot-bearings, and a presser-foot opposing and acting with the feed device,

substantially as set fort-h.

10. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combina tion of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a stitchforming mechanism driving shaft housed within the said projecting frame part, a cam on the said shaft for lifting the feed device, another cam on the shaft for giving the said device a feed-stroke, a feed device having a slot or opening penetrated by the said shaft and guided by its slotted part upon the latter, pivot-bearings for the body of the feed device, a spring connected to the feed device and some stationary part, as the said framing, and acting to turn the feed device about its pivot-bearings, a feed-regulator arranged adj ustable between its support and the -feed-device pivot, and a presser-foot opposing and acting with the feed device, substantially as set forth.

11. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a device, as a presser-foot, for holding the work, a reciprocatin g needle-bar having a needle-carrying extension'pivoted thereto within its vertical axis, and a device operated by the needle bar and arranged to strike or engage parts of the needle-carrying extension, whereby the extension is vibrated from side to side and caused to enter the fabric at an angle to the said needle-bar, substantially as set forth.

12. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, a device, as a presser-foot, for holding the work, a reciprocating needle-bar having a needle-carr ing extension pivoted thereto Within its vertical axis, which extension has projecting parts, as pins, and a device operated by the needle-bar and arranged to engage the said projecting parts alternately, whereby the eX-. tension is vibrated from. side to side and caused to enter the fabric at an angle to the said needle-bar, substantially as set forth.

1-3. In a shoe-sewin g machine, the combination of a supporting and guiding projecting frame part, as a projecting horn or post, upon and over which the work is guided, the sewing-needle bar having a needle-carrying extension pivoted at its end and provided with projecting side parts, the ratchet-wheel146, through which the needle-bar works, and having a rim 154, provided with raised and depressed portions, as 140 and 145, and suitably retained in place, as described, a pawl operating said wheel and moved by a swinging arm operatedby suitable connection with the needle-driving mechanism, the ratchet mechanism being arranged to alternately throw the needle from one side to the other, and the said swing-arm, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I now afiixmy signatine in presence of two witnesses.

JOSEPH L. TREI-IARN.

WVitnesses:

E. P. ROBBINS, JOHN GARLICK.