US20240068143A1 - Method and apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles - Google Patents

Method and apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles Download PDF

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Publication number
US20240068143A1
US20240068143A1 US18/271,879 US202118271879A US2024068143A1 US 20240068143 A1 US20240068143 A1 US 20240068143A1 US 202118271879 A US202118271879 A US 202118271879A US 2024068143 A1 US2024068143 A1 US 2024068143A1
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Prior art keywords
cloths
sewing
markings
pattern
embroidery machine
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US18/271,879
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Roberto Arsanto
Denis Chiudinelli
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Moncler SpA
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Moncler SpA
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Assigned to MONCLER S.P.A. reassignment MONCLER S.P.A. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: ARSANTO, Roberto
Assigned to MONCLER S.P.A. reassignment MONCLER S.P.A. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: CHIUDINELLI, Denis
Publication of US20240068143A1 publication Critical patent/US20240068143A1/en
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B19/00Programme-controlled sewing machines
    • D05B19/02Sewing machines having electronic memory or microprocessor control unit
    • D05B19/04Sewing machines having electronic memory or microprocessor control unit characterised by memory aspects
    • D05B19/10Arrangements for selecting combinations of stitch or pattern data from memory ; Handling data in order to control stitch format, e.g. size, direction, mirror image
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05CEMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05C5/00Embroidering machines with arrangements for automatic control of a series of individual steps
    • D05C5/04Embroidering machines with arrangements for automatic control of a series of individual steps by input of recorded information, e.g. on perforated tape
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B37/00Devices incorporated in sewing machines for slitting, grooving, or cutting
    • D05B37/04Cutting devices
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B11/00Machines for sewing quilts or mattresses
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B21/00Sewing machines with devices for automatically controlling movement of work-carrier relative to stitch-forming mechanism in order to obtain particular configuration of seam, e.g. programme-controlled for sewing collars, for attaching pockets
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B25/00Sewing units consisting of combinations of several sewing machines
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/02Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for facilitating seaming; Hem-turning elements; Hemmers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B69/00Driving-gear; Control devices
    • D05B69/30Details
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05CEMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05C13/00Auxiliary devices incorporated in embroidering machines, not otherwise provided for; Ancillary apparatus for use with embroidering machines
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05CEMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05C7/00Special-purpose or automatic embroidering machines
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06HMARKING, INSPECTING, SEAMING OR SEVERING TEXTILE MATERIALS
    • D06H7/00Apparatus or processes for cutting, or otherwise severing, specially adapted for the cutting, or otherwise severing, of textile materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05DINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/08Cutting the workpiece

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method and an apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles, particularly articles to be padded, for example with goose down.
  • a drawback of the methods in which the seams are closed lines around which the cut must be then performed is the precision with which the cutting line must be kept spaced from the sewing line provided previously.
  • the aim of the present invention is to provide a method for the production of fabric or leather articles and a corresponding apparatus which are capable of improving the background art in one or more of the aspects mentioned above.
  • an object of the invention is to provide a method for the production of fabric or leather articles and a corresponding apparatus which allow to obtain semi-finished products which are sewn and cut precisely along the seams.
  • Another object is to provide a method for the production of fabric or leather articles and a corresponding apparatus which can be used with a plurality of mutually different templates.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a method for the production of fabric or leather articles and a corresponding apparatus for obtaining semi-finished products that can be identified easily and quickly, for a subsequent process such as padding and/or the tailoring of garments.
  • Another object is to provide an apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles which can be also used within a manufacturing line for garments.
  • an object of the present invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art in a manner that is alternative to any existing solutions.
  • Not least object of the invention is to provide a method and an apparatus which are highly reliable, relatively easy to provide and at competitive costs.
  • the above method may be provided with one or more of the characteristics of the dependent claims.
  • an apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles, particularly of padded articles, adapted to perform the above method comprising:
  • FIG. 1 is a side view of an apparatus according to the invention
  • FIG. 2 is a top plan view of the apparatus of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 3 is a partial detail view of the tensioning frame of the cloths in the embroidery machine of the apparatus of FIGS. 1 - 2 ;
  • FIG. 4 is a view of an embodiment of a stored template used in the apparatus of the preceding figures.
  • an apparatus comprises a feeder 2 of a plurality of cloths in roll form.
  • the feeder 2 is provided with a plurality of unwinding units 2 a , 2 b , 2 c with horizontal unwinding axes, which are arranged so that the cloths 20 a , 20 b , 20 c can be unwound from the respective rolls 21 a , 21 b , 21 c and be fed, in a mutually superimposed manner and along a substantially rectilinear advancement direction D, to the downstream machines, in order to form a multilayer sheet 20 d with a number of layers that corresponds to the number of cloths 20 a , 20 b , 20 c in input.
  • the cloths 20 a , 20 b , 20 c can have, optionally but not necessarily, substantially the same width, with respect to the direction perpendicular to the advancement direction D, so that they can be superimposed substantially in register at the outlet of the feeder 2 .
  • the superimposed cloths are three and are formed by two cloths 20 a - 20 b , adapted to form a sack for down in a subsequent filling step, and by a third cloth 20 c adapted to form an external layer of a garment padded with down and tailored downstream of the apparatus 1 .
  • the materials used for the cloths of the invention are those normally used in the textile and/or upholstery industry, in particular for the production of padded articles such as for example garments padded with goose down.
  • the cloths used can be made of fabric (this term being intended to mean knitted fabric, meshes, non-woven fabric, wadding sheets or polyester sheets for padding, synthetic sheets in general) and/or leather (including imitation leather), but plastic films or sheets of other material, always preferably unwound from a roll, can be added, to be associated with the fabric and/or leather cloths.
  • the apparatus 1 Downstream of the feeder 2 , the apparatus 1 comprises an embroidery machine 3 which comprises at least one sewing head and, more preferably, a plurality of sewing heads 31 a . . . 31 f which are aligned along the advancement direction D, for example six sewing heads (not all shown in the figure for the sake of space).
  • the sewing heads 31 a - 31 f may be mounted on a common longitudinal member 30 which is parallel to the advancement direction D.
  • the embroidery machine 3 comprises at least one embroidery frame 32 adapted to tension and temporarily retain the superimposed cloths 20 d during sewing, in a per se known manner, and to move according to stored embroidering program.
  • Embroidering machines with fixed sewing heads and a cloth embroidery frame that moves according to an embroidering program are per se known, for example, from Patent Application DE19722616.
  • the embroidery frame 32 comprises longitudinal and transverse jaws 33 - 34 , which can be activated on command during the step for sewing the superimposed cloths 20 d fed in input to the embroidery machine 3 in order to retain and tension, along two mutually perpendicular directions, the superimposed cloths 20 d.
  • the apparatus 1 comprises moreover memory means, for example in the embroidery machine 3 itself, which contain and store at least one template which contains a drawing or pattern of reference sewing lines S 1 , S 2 , S 3 , S 4 , S 5 and a plurality of reference markings M 1 , M 2 , M 3 , M 4 distributed, with respect to said pattern, according to a reference arrangement.
  • the stored template corresponds to a digital pattern, for example in the form of a vector file, and comprises a plurality of substantially closed reference lines S 1 , S 2 , S 3 , S 4 , S 5 which correspond to actual sewing lines of a specific layout inside a rectangular area A that must be provided by one of the sewing heads 31 a - 31 f .
  • the layout is formed by a plurality of semi-finished products (or items) P 1 , P 2 , P 3 , P 4 , P 5 to be obtained by cutting and to be manufactured subsequently in order to form, for example, a padded coat or jacket.
  • the embroidery machine 3 is associated with control means, for example, a computerized numeric control (CNC) of the entire apparatus 1 , which are configured to actuate relative movements between the sewing heads 31 a - 31 f and the embroidery frame 32 based on said stored template, in order to obtain an automatic sewing of the superimposed cloths 20 d along sewing lines that correspond to the pattern of the stored template and, according to a particular aspect of the invention, additional seams according to the reference arrangement of the markings, so that the markings M 1 -M 4 of the stored pattern are replicated, advantageously in the form of corresponding additional seams, on the superimposed cloths 20 d.
  • CNC computerized numeric control
  • the markings consist of respective seams, for example in the form of circles, obtained with the same sewing head 31 a - 31 f that reproduces in the form of seams the pattern S 1 -S 5 stored in the template. Therefore, with the sewing step the markings are also simultaneously applied, in the form of additional seams on the superimposed cloths 20 d , which markings are arranged, with respect to the sewing lines applied to the cloths 20 d , in the same manner as the stored template.
  • the embroidery machine 3 is adapted to move the frame 32 with respect to the sewing heads 31 a - 31 f and to actuate said sewing heads so as to provide on the superimposed cloths 20 d seams that correspond (with a 1:1 ratio or according to a known scale factor) to the reference lines S 1 -S 5 and to the reference arrangement of the markings M 1 -M 4 .
  • each sewing head 31 a - 31 f is a planar rectangular area which corresponds, with a 1:1 ratio or with a known scale factor, to the rectangular area A of the stored template or digital pattern.
  • each actual sewing line provided by each sewing head 31 a - 31 f corresponds exactly (except for a known scale factor) to the respective stored reference sewing line S 1 -S 5 .
  • the reference sewing lines S 1 -S 5 are optionally such that they have interruptions along one or more portions O 1 , O 2 , O 3 , O 4 , O 5 , so that the sewing head 31 a - 31 f does not perform any sewing of the superimposed cloths 20 d at these portions O 1 -O 5 .
  • corresponding inlets are obtained for access to a respective inner pocket formed between the cloths 20 - 20 b - 20 c and delimited by seams, through which inlet a padding material (for example, goose down) can be inserted in a filling station (not shown) located downstream of the embroidery machine 3 with respect to the advancement direction D.
  • the filling station is located downstream of the entire apparatus 1 with respect to the direction D.
  • the reference sewing lines S 1 -S 5 may further comprise one or more chords T 1 , T 2 , T 3 , T 4 , T 5 which join two respective points of a respective closed line S 1 -S 5 . Sewing is performed along said chords T 1 -T 5 by the same sewing head 31 a - 31 f that performs the sewing that corresponds to the lines S 1 -S 5 .
  • the portions O 1 -O 5 without seams and arranged side by side along the closed line are separated by one end of one of said chords T 1 -T 5 , so that each one of the pockets to be subsequently filled is delimited by at least one of said chords T 1 -T 5 .
  • the reference arrangement of the markings M 1 -M 4 in the stored template is two-dimensional (i.e., on the entire X-Y Cartesian plane and not only along one axis) and is such that the reference markings M 1 -M 4 are preferably arranged outside the closed lines S 1 -S 5 of the pattern.
  • a plurality of peripheral reference markings M 1 , M 2 are arranged along the peripheral region of the rectangular area A, for example proximate to all the vertices of the rectangle A, while at least one other reference marking M 3 -M 4 is placed more inside said area A than the peripheral markings M 1 -M 2 , more precisely alongside a respective curved portion (such as S 1 ā€² and S 2 ā€²) of the sewing lines S 1 -S 5 of the pattern and preferably in the direction of a radius of curvature of said curved portion.
  • a respective curved portion such as S 1 ā€² and S 2 ā€²
  • the apparatus 1 can comprise a drawing station 4 for pulling the sewn cloths (which correspond to the superimposed cloths 20 d after they have undergone sewing), which allows the unwinding of the individual cloths 20 a - 20 c from the respective upstream rolls 21 a - 21 c , the stepwise advancement of the superimposed cloths 20 d along the advancement direction D, and the feeding of the sewn portion of the cloths 20 d toward the downstream stations, which are described hereinafter.
  • a drawing station 4 for pulling the sewn cloths (which correspond to the superimposed cloths 20 d after they have undergone sewing), which allows the unwinding of the individual cloths 20 a - 20 c from the respective upstream rolls 21 a - 21 c , the stepwise advancement of the superimposed cloths 20 d along the advancement direction D, and the feeding of the sewn portion of the cloths 20 d toward the downstream stations, which are described hereinafter.
  • the advancement step of the superimposed cloths 20 d between the feeder 2 and the drawing station 4 is substantially equal to the length of the embroidery frame 32 in the direction D, so as to feed to the embroidery machine 3 a portion of superimposed cloths 20 d of such a length that the stored template can be replicated simultaneously on multiple adjacent rectangular areas of the superimposed cloths 20 d by actuating the sewing heads 31 a - 31 f in parallel.
  • the length of the embroidery frame 32 in the direction D is substantially a multiple of the length of the side of one of said rectangular areas in the advancement direction D.
  • the drawing station 4 includes a buffer unit for temporarily accumulating the sewn portion of the superimposed sewn cloths 20 d that exits from the embroidery machine 3 .
  • the buffer unit includes sets of deflector rollers 42 - 43 , which have a horizontal axis and are movable toward/away from each other (for example, in a direction substantially perpendicular to the advancement direction D) and between which the sewn portion of the superimposed cloths 20 d (which is also referenced herein as ā€œsewn clothsā€) is guided in a winding path.
  • One set of deflector rollers 42 may be arranged on a movable support 41 while the other set of deflector rollers 43 , for example offset with respect to the deflector rollers 42 , may be provided in a fixed position.
  • the buffer unit of the drawing station 4 can respectively accumulate more/less amount of sewn cloth produced upstream by the embroidery machine 3 without jamming the downstream processing stations.
  • Said downstream stations comprise a machine 53 for the automatic cutting of the sewn cloths which is associated with means 5 for the optical capture of the cloths 20 d sewn by the embroidery machine according to the stored template.
  • the optical capture means 5 may comprise one or more video cameras 52 arranged on a mounting frame 51 located above the automatic cutting machine 53 , towards which machine the video cameras are directed. In this manner it is possible to capture an entire rectangular area (substantially corresponding to the area A of the stored template) containing all the markings applied on that area by the embroidery machine 3 , in particular by the sewing head 31 a - 31 f which performed sewing on that area.
  • the optical capture means may be positioned upstream of the cutting machine 53 and downstream of the embroidery machine 3 and/or of the drawing station 4 .
  • the automatic cutting machine 53 may be provided with a conveyor belt 56 on which a segment of the sewn portion of the superimposed cloths 20 d is laid and made to advance intermittently so that the belt 56 is stopped only during the cutting step.
  • a support for example of the Cartesian type, with a cutting head 54 , mounted so that it can move along a beam 55 which is, in turn, movable in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the beam 55 .
  • the cutting tool may be of any type, for example a laser or a blade.
  • the means for controlling the apparatus 1 are programmed so as to move the movable beam 55 of the cutting machine 53 to a position that does not obstruct the step of optical capture by the video cameras 52 .
  • the cutting machine 53 is configured to perform, within a predetermined time T 1 , the cutting of one layout P 1 -P 5 at a time, along the sewing lines of a portion of the sewn cloths that corresponds to a single rectangular area A of the stored template.
  • the preset cutting time T 1 is related to a preset embroidering time T 2 used by the embroidery machine 3 to fully reproduce the stored template, in parallel on multiple adjacent rectangular areas of the superimposed cloths 20 d , by means of respective sewing heads 31 a - 31 f .
  • T 2 n*T 1 , where ā€œnā€ is the number of sewing heads of the embroidery machine.
  • the buffer unit of the drawing station 4 is adapted to compensate for this speed difference between the embroidery machine 3 and the automatic cutting machine 53 .
  • the sewn portions of the superimposed cloths 20 d that are fed downstream are no longer tensioned in the two perpendicular directions and they are accordingly subject to relaxations and wrinkles which may deform, or reduce in size, the sewing lines and the arrangement of the sewn markings with respect to the stored template.
  • the invention therefore provides that the means for controlling the apparatus 1 comprise and store also instructions for:
  • the automatic cutting machine 53 is thus suitable for performing an automatic cutting of the sewn portion of the superimposed cloths 20 d , in particular around the sewing lines formed by the embroidery machine 3 and at a substantially constant distance from said lines (for example, less than 1 cm) according to the actual pattern obtained with said interpolation, so as to obtain semi-finished products P 1 -P 5 of the original layouts.
  • These semi-finished products which as a consequence of the cutting are completely separated from each other, can be subsequently padded with down and/or joined subsequently to form a finished article, for example a garment.
  • a labeling station 6 Downstream of the cutting machine 53 it is possible to provide a labeling station 6 which, with a Cartesian applicator 61 , is suitable for applying respective automatically readable labels (for example labels with QR codes or bar codes) on the respective semi-finished products P 1 -P 5 obtained in the automatic cutting step.
  • respective automatically readable labels for example labels with QR codes or bar codes
  • the labeling station 6 also is configured to complete its work within a preset time which is preferably equal to the time T 1 of the cutting station 53 .
  • a further table for receiving a batch of semi-finished products P 1 -P 5 , for the associated pick-up and feeding to subsequent processing stations, such as for example stations for filling (with down) and/or stations for manufacturing garments.
  • subsequent processing stations such as for example stations for filling (with down) and/or stations for manufacturing garments.
  • a confirmation button connected to the means for controlling the apparatus 1 and to be pressed manually each time an operator has completed the pick-up of all the semi-finished products P 1 -P 5 from the receiving table. If the button is not pressed within a predetermined time which corresponds to T 1 (i.e., the working time of the cutting machine 53 ), the control means stop the apparatus 1 .
  • the materials used, as well as the contingent shapes and dimensions may be any according to the requirements and the state of the art.

Abstract

A method and an apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles, particularly articles to be padded, comprising the steps of:automatic sewing, at an embroidery machine (3), of superimposed cloths (20d) according to a stored template that contains a pattern of reference sewing lines (S1-S5);applying a plurality of markings in the form of respective additional seams, according to a corresponding arrangement of reference markings (M1-M4) provided in the stored template;optically capturing (5) a sewn portion of the cloths and determining any displacement of the markings applied with respect to the arrangement of the reference markings (M1-M4);on the basis of the displacement and of the mutual arrangement of the reference markings (M1-M4) and of the pattern of the sewing lines (S1-S5) that are stored, determining by interpolation the actual pattern of the sewing lines that is present on the sewn cloths (20d);automatically cutting (53) along the sewing lines on the basis of the actual pattern obtained with the interpolation.

Description

  • The present invention relates to a method and an apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles, particularly articles to be padded, for example with goose down.
  • Automatic quilting methods are known in which a continuous padded cloth is made to advance first at a sewing head and then at a cutting head, using a perforated conveyor belt with which, by means of air suction, the cloth is retained without any sliding. A method of this type is described in Patent Application DE3801820A1.
  • A drawback of the methods in which the seams are closed lines around which the cut must be then performed is the precision with which the cutting line must be kept spaced from the sewing line provided previously.
  • Another drawback is that the semi-finished products obtained at the end of the cutting may be indistinguishable to an operator and, consequently, difficult to catalog without a general slowdown of the production line.
  • The use of known sewing and cutting methods may also entail some problems in a production line, particularly in lines in which continuous manual intervention is necessary in order to perform certain steps.
  • The aim of the present invention is to provide a method for the production of fabric or leather articles and a corresponding apparatus which are capable of improving the background art in one or more of the aspects mentioned above.
  • Within the scope of this aim, an object of the invention is to provide a method for the production of fabric or leather articles and a corresponding apparatus which allow to obtain semi-finished products which are sewn and cut precisely along the seams.
  • Another object is to provide a method for the production of fabric or leather articles and a corresponding apparatus which can be used with a plurality of mutually different templates.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a method for the production of fabric or leather articles and a corresponding apparatus for obtaining semi-finished products that can be identified easily and quickly, for a subsequent process such as padding and/or the tailoring of garments.
  • Another object is to provide an apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles which can be also used within a manufacturing line for garments.
  • Moreover, an object of the present invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art in a manner that is alternative to any existing solutions.
  • Not least object of the invention is to provide a method and an apparatus which are highly reliable, relatively easy to provide and at competitive costs.
  • This aim and these and other objects which will become better apparent hereinafter are achieved by a method for the production of fabric or leather articles, particularly articles to be padded, comprising the steps of:
      • feeding at least two mutually superimposed cloths to an embroidery machine;
      • stepwise advancing of said superimposed cloths along a substantially rectilinear direction;
      • at said embroidery machine, automatic sewing of said at least two cloths along sewing lines according to a template that is stored and contains a pattern of reference sewing lines;
        characterized in that the method comprises the steps of:
      • during said automatic sewing, applying a plurality of markings in the form of respective additional seams, said markings being distributed two-dimensionally on an exposed face of the superimposed cloths according to a corresponding arrangement of reference markings provided in said stored template;
      • after said automatic sewing, feeding to a station for the automatic cutting of the sewn portion of said superimposed cloths;
      • optically capturing said sewn portion and determining any displacement of said markings applied to said superimposed cloths with respect to the arrangement of the reference markings stored in said template;
      • based on said displacement and on the mutual arrangement of the reference markings and of the pattern of the sewing lines provided in said stored template, determining by interpolation the actual pattern of the sewing lines that is present on said sewn portion of the cloths;
      • automatically cutting said sewn portion, said cutting being performed substantially along said sewing lines on the basis of said actual pattern obtained with said interpolation, so as to automatically adapt said cutting to any relaxations and/or wrinkles of the cloths after said sewing step.
  • Optionally, the above method may be provided with one or more of the characteristics of the dependent claims.
  • The aim and the objects of the invention are also achieved by an apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles, particularly of padded articles, adapted to perform the above method, said apparatus comprising:
      • a feeder of a plurality of cloths, said feeder being configured to unwind said cloths from respective rolls in an advancement direction and to mutually superimpose them;
      • memory means comprising a stored template which contains a pattern of reference sewing lines and a plurality of reference markings arranged, with respect to said pattern, according to a reference arrangement;
      • an embroidery machine, comprising at least one sewing head and at least one frame adapted to tension and temporarily retain said superimposed cloths during sewing, said embroidery machine being associated with control means configured to perform, by means of relative movements between said at least one sewing head and said frame, an automatic sewing of said superimposed cloths along sewing lines that correspond to said pattern of the stored template;
      • said embroidery machine being adapted to apply two-dimensionally, on said superimposed cloths, a plurality of markings in the form of seams in positions that correspond to said reference arrangement stored in said template;
      • downstream of said embroidery machine with respect to said advancement direction, means for the optical capture of the cloths sewn by said embroidery machine and a machine for the automatic cutting of said sewn cloths;
      • control means comprising stored instructions for:ā€”
      • detecting, by means of said optical capture means, the position of said markings applied on said sewn cloths;
      • determining any displacement of said applied markings with respect to the reference arrangement stored in said template;
      • on the basis of said displacement and of the mutual arrangement of the reference markings and of the pattern of the sewing lines provided in said stored template, determining by interpolation the actual pattern of the sewing lines that is present on said sewn cloths, so as to automatically adapt said cutting to any relaxations and/or wrinkles of the sewn cloths after the release of said sewn cloths by the frame of the embroidery machine;
      • said automatic cutting machine being adapted to perform an automatic cutting of said cloths substantially along said sewing lines on the basis of said actual pattern obtained with said interpolation.
  • Optionally, such apparatus may be provided with the characteristics of the dependent claims.
  • Further characteristics and advantages of the invention will become better apparent from the description of a preferred but not exclusive embodiment of the apparatus according to the invention, illustrated by way of non-limiting example in the accompanying drawings, wherein:
  • FIG. 1 is a side view of an apparatus according to the invention;
  • FIG. 2 is a top plan view of the apparatus of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 3 is a partial detail view of the tensioning frame of the cloths in the embroidery machine of the apparatus of FIGS. 1-2 ;
  • FIG. 4 is a view of an embodiment of a stored template used in the apparatus of the preceding figures.
  • With reference to the cited figures, an apparatus according to the invention, generally designated by the reference numeral 1, comprises a feeder 2 of a plurality of cloths in roll form. The feeder 2 is provided with a plurality of unwinding units 2 a, 2 b, 2 c with horizontal unwinding axes, which are arranged so that the cloths 20 a, 20 b, 20 c can be unwound from the respective rolls 21 a, 21 b, 21 c and be fed, in a mutually superimposed manner and along a substantially rectilinear advancement direction D, to the downstream machines, in order to form a multilayer sheet 20 d with a number of layers that corresponds to the number of cloths 20 a, 20 b, 20 c in input.
  • The cloths 20 a, 20 b, 20 c can have, optionally but not necessarily, substantially the same width, with respect to the direction perpendicular to the advancement direction D, so that they can be superimposed substantially in register at the outlet of the feeder 2.
  • In the illustrated embodiment, the superimposed cloths are three and are formed by two cloths 20 a-20 b, adapted to form a sack for down in a subsequent filling step, and by a third cloth 20 c adapted to form an external layer of a garment padded with down and tailored downstream of the apparatus 1.
  • At the feeder 2 it is possible, as an alternative, to provide for the interposition, between at least two cloths during the superimposing step, of previously formed sacks for down, as described for example in Italian Patent Application no. 102016000111981, incorporated herein by reference, and according to a predefined placement.
  • The materials used for the cloths of the invention are those normally used in the textile and/or upholstery industry, in particular for the production of padded articles such as for example garments padded with goose down.
  • In particular, the cloths used can be made of fabric (this term being intended to mean knitted fabric, meshes, non-woven fabric, wadding sheets or polyester sheets for padding, synthetic sheets in general) and/or leather (including imitation leather), but plastic films or sheets of other material, always preferably unwound from a roll, can be added, to be associated with the fabric and/or leather cloths.
  • Downstream of the feeder 2, the apparatus 1 comprises an embroidery machine 3 which comprises at least one sewing head and, more preferably, a plurality of sewing heads 31 a . . . 31 f which are aligned along the advancement direction D, for example six sewing heads (not all shown in the figure for the sake of space). The sewing heads 31 a-31 f may be mounted on a common longitudinal member 30 which is parallel to the advancement direction D.
  • Furthermore, the embroidery machine 3 comprises at least one embroidery frame 32 adapted to tension and temporarily retain the superimposed cloths 20 d during sewing, in a per se known manner, and to move according to stored embroidering program.
  • Embroidering machines with fixed sewing heads and a cloth embroidery frame that moves according to an embroidering program are per se known, for example, from Patent Application DE19722616.
  • In the illustrated embodiment, the embroidery frame 32 comprises longitudinal and transverse jaws 33-34, which can be activated on command during the step for sewing the superimposed cloths 20 d fed in input to the embroidery machine 3 in order to retain and tension, along two mutually perpendicular directions, the superimposed cloths 20 d.
  • The apparatus 1 comprises moreover memory means, for example in the embroidery machine 3 itself, which contain and store at least one template which contains a drawing or pattern of reference sewing lines S1, S2, S3, S4, S5 and a plurality of reference markings M1, M2, M3, M4 distributed, with respect to said pattern, according to a reference arrangement.
  • The stored template corresponds to a digital pattern, for example in the form of a vector file, and comprises a plurality of substantially closed reference lines S1, S2, S3, S4, S5 which correspond to actual sewing lines of a specific layout inside a rectangular area A that must be provided by one of the sewing heads 31 a-31 f. In the example shown, the layout is formed by a plurality of semi-finished products (or items) P1, P2, P3, P4, P5 to be obtained by cutting and to be manufactured subsequently in order to form, for example, a padded coat or jacket.
  • The embroidery machine 3 is associated with control means, for example, a computerized numeric control (CNC) of the entire apparatus 1, which are configured to actuate relative movements between the sewing heads 31 a-31 f and the embroidery frame 32 based on said stored template, in order to obtain an automatic sewing of the superimposed cloths 20 d along sewing lines that correspond to the pattern of the stored template and, according to a particular aspect of the invention, additional seams according to the reference arrangement of the markings, so that the markings M1-M4 of the stored pattern are replicated, advantageously in the form of corresponding additional seams, on the superimposed cloths 20 d.
  • One advantage of the invention is that the markings consist of respective seams, for example in the form of circles, obtained with the same sewing head 31 a-31 f that reproduces in the form of seams the pattern S1-S5 stored in the template. Therefore, with the sewing step the markings are also simultaneously applied, in the form of additional seams on the superimposed cloths 20 d, which markings are arranged, with respect to the sewing lines applied to the cloths 20 d, in the same manner as the stored template.
  • Since the sewing heads of known embroidery machines allow to apply threads of different colors, it is possible to associate with the markings a thread that is different from those used for the sewing lines S1-S5, for example with a high contrast with respect to the color of the exposed face of the superimposed cloths 20 d, in order to facilitate its automatic recognition in the subsequent stations.
  • The embroidery machine 3 is adapted to move the frame 32 with respect to the sewing heads 31 a-31 f and to actuate said sewing heads so as to provide on the superimposed cloths 20 d seams that correspond (with a 1:1 ratio or according to a known scale factor) to the reference lines S1-S5 and to the reference arrangement of the markings M1-M4.
  • Since the superimposed cloths 20 d are kept tensioned by the embroidery frame 32, the work area of each sewing head 31 a-31 f is a planar rectangular area which corresponds, with a 1:1 ratio or with a known scale factor, to the rectangular area A of the stored template or digital pattern. Thus, each actual sewing line provided by each sewing head 31 a-31 f corresponds exactly (except for a known scale factor) to the respective stored reference sewing line S1-S5.
  • The reference sewing lines S1-S5 are optionally such that they have interruptions along one or more portions O1, O2, O3, O4, O5, so that the sewing head 31 a-31 f does not perform any sewing of the superimposed cloths 20 d at these portions O1-O5. In this manner, at the end of the sewing step, at these portions O1-O5 corresponding inlets are obtained for access to a respective inner pocket formed between the cloths 20-20 b-20 c and delimited by seams, through which inlet a padding material (for example, goose down) can be inserted in a filling station (not shown) located downstream of the embroidery machine 3 with respect to the advancement direction D. In the illustrated embodiment, the filling station is located downstream of the entire apparatus 1 with respect to the direction D.
  • In order to obtain multiple pockets within a given closed sewing line S1-S5, the reference sewing lines S1-S5 may further comprise one or more chords T1, T2, T3, T4, T5 which join two respective points of a respective closed line S1-S5. Sewing is performed along said chords T1-T5 by the same sewing head 31 a-31 f that performs the sewing that corresponds to the lines S1-S5. Advantageously, the portions O1-O5 without seams and arranged side by side along the closed line are separated by one end of one of said chords T1-T5, so that each one of the pockets to be subsequently filled is delimited by at least one of said chords T1-T5.
  • The reference arrangement of the markings M1-M4 in the stored template is two-dimensional (i.e., on the entire X-Y Cartesian plane and not only along one axis) and is such that the reference markings M1-M4 are preferably arranged outside the closed lines S1-S5 of the pattern. In particular, a plurality of peripheral reference markings M1, M2 are arranged along the peripheral region of the rectangular area A, for example proximate to all the vertices of the rectangle A, while at least one other reference marking M3-M4 is placed more inside said area A than the peripheral markings M1-M2, more precisely alongside a respective curved portion (such as S1ā€² and S2ā€²) of the sewing lines S1-S5 of the pattern and preferably in the direction of a radius of curvature of said curved portion.
  • Downstream of the embroidery machine 3, the apparatus 1 can comprise a drawing station 4 for pulling the sewn cloths (which correspond to the superimposed cloths 20 d after they have undergone sewing), which allows the unwinding of the individual cloths 20 a-20 c from the respective upstream rolls 21 a-21 c, the stepwise advancement of the superimposed cloths 20 d along the advancement direction D, and the feeding of the sewn portion of the cloths 20 d toward the downstream stations, which are described hereinafter.
  • The advancement step of the superimposed cloths 20 d between the feeder 2 and the drawing station 4 is substantially equal to the length of the embroidery frame 32 in the direction D, so as to feed to the embroidery machine 3 a portion of superimposed cloths 20 d of such a length that the stored template can be replicated simultaneously on multiple adjacent rectangular areas of the superimposed cloths 20 d by actuating the sewing heads 31 a-31 f in parallel. The length of the embroidery frame 32 in the direction D is substantially a multiple of the length of the side of one of said rectangular areas in the advancement direction D.
  • Throughout the sewing step, the advancement of the superimposed cloths upstream of the drawing station 4 is stopped.
  • Advantageously, the drawing station 4 includes a buffer unit for temporarily accumulating the sewn portion of the superimposed sewn cloths 20 d that exits from the embroidery machine 3.
  • The buffer unit includes sets of deflector rollers 42-43, which have a horizontal axis and are movable toward/away from each other (for example, in a direction substantially perpendicular to the advancement direction D) and between which the sewn portion of the superimposed cloths 20 d (which is also referenced herein as ā€œsewn clothsā€) is guided in a winding path. One set of deflector rollers 42 may be arranged on a movable support 41 while the other set of deflector rollers 43, for example offset with respect to the deflector rollers 42, may be provided in a fixed position.
  • By means of the mutual spacing/approach of the roller sets 42-43, the buffer unit of the drawing station 4 can respectively accumulate more/less amount of sewn cloth produced upstream by the embroidery machine 3 without jamming the downstream processing stations.
  • Said downstream stations comprise a machine 53 for the automatic cutting of the sewn cloths which is associated with means 5 for the optical capture of the cloths 20 d sewn by the embroidery machine according to the stored template. The optical capture means 5 may comprise one or more video cameras 52 arranged on a mounting frame 51 located above the automatic cutting machine 53, towards which machine the video cameras are directed. In this manner it is possible to capture an entire rectangular area (substantially corresponding to the area A of the stored template) containing all the markings applied on that area by the embroidery machine 3, in particular by the sewing head 31 a-31 f which performed sewing on that area.
  • According to an alternative embodiment, not shown, the optical capture means may be positioned upstream of the cutting machine 53 and downstream of the embroidery machine 3 and/or of the drawing station 4.
  • The automatic cutting machine 53 may be provided with a conveyor belt 56 on which a segment of the sewn portion of the superimposed cloths 20 d is laid and made to advance intermittently so that the belt 56 is stopped only during the cutting step.
  • Above the belt there is a support, for example of the Cartesian type, with a cutting head 54, mounted so that it can move along a beam 55 which is, in turn, movable in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the beam 55. The cutting tool may be of any type, for example a laser or a blade.
  • The means for controlling the apparatus 1 are programmed so as to move the movable beam 55 of the cutting machine 53 to a position that does not obstruct the step of optical capture by the video cameras 52.
  • In the illustrated embodiment, the cutting machine 53 is configured to perform, within a predetermined time T1, the cutting of one layout P1-P5 at a time, along the sewing lines of a portion of the sewn cloths that corresponds to a single rectangular area A of the stored template.
  • The preset cutting time T1 is related to a preset embroidering time T2 used by the embroidery machine 3 to fully reproduce the stored template, in parallel on multiple adjacent rectangular areas of the superimposed cloths 20 d, by means of respective sewing heads 31 a-31 f. In this case, T2=n*T1, where ā€œnā€ is the number of sewing heads of the embroidery machine. The buffer unit of the drawing station 4 is adapted to compensate for this speed difference between the embroidery machine 3 and the automatic cutting machine 53.
  • With the disengagement of the embroidery frame 32 at the end of the sewing step, the sewn portions of the superimposed cloths 20 d that are fed downstream are no longer tensioned in the two perpendicular directions and they are accordingly subject to relaxations and wrinkles which may deform, or reduce in size, the sewing lines and the arrangement of the sewn markings with respect to the stored template.
  • The invention therefore provides that the means for controlling the apparatus 1 comprise and store also instructions for:
      • detecting, by means of the optical capture of the video cameras 52, the position of the markings applied on the sewn portion of the superimposed cloths 20 d in output from the embroidery machine 3, i.e. on the sewn cloths;
      • determining any displacement, i.e., any different arrangement, of the applied markings with respect to the reference arrangement M1-M4 stored in the template;
      • on the basis of said displacement and of the mutual arrangement of the reference markings M1-M4 with respect to the pattern of the sewing lines S1-S5 provided in the stored template, determining by interpolation the actual pattern of the sewing lines that is present on the sewn portion of the cloths 20 d at the capture means 5, so as to actuate accordingly the cutting machine 53. It is thus possible to adapt automatically the cutting to any relaxations and/or wrinkles of the sewn portion of the cloths 20 d as a consequence of the release of said portion by the embroidery frame 32 of the embroidery machine 3.
  • The automatic cutting machine 53 is thus suitable for performing an automatic cutting of the sewn portion of the superimposed cloths 20 d, in particular around the sewing lines formed by the embroidery machine 3 and at a substantially constant distance from said lines (for example, less than 1 cm) according to the actual pattern obtained with said interpolation, so as to obtain semi-finished products P1-P5 of the original layouts. These semi-finished products, which as a consequence of the cutting are completely separated from each other, can be subsequently padded with down and/or joined subsequently to form a finished article, for example a garment.
  • Downstream of the cutting machine 53 it is possible to provide a labeling station 6 which, with a Cartesian applicator 61, is suitable for applying respective automatically readable labels (for example labels with QR codes or bar codes) on the respective semi-finished products P1-P5 obtained in the automatic cutting step.
  • The labeling station 6 also is configured to complete its work within a preset time which is preferably equal to the time T1 of the cutting station 53.
  • Downstream of the apparatus 1 it is possible to provide a further table (not shown in the drawings) for receiving a batch of semi-finished products P1-P5, for the associated pick-up and feeding to subsequent processing stations, such as for example stations for filling (with down) and/or stations for manufacturing garments. In the case of manual pick-up of the semi-finished products at said receiving table, it is possible to provide, at said receiving table, a confirmation button connected to the means for controlling the apparatus 1 and to be pressed manually each time an operator has completed the pick-up of all the semi-finished products P1-P5 from the receiving table. If the button is not pressed within a predetermined time which corresponds to T1 (i.e., the working time of the cutting machine 53), the control means stop the apparatus 1.
  • The operation and correspondingly the method according to the invention are evident from the structure of the apparatus described above.
  • In practice it has been found that the invention achieves the intended aim and objects.
  • The invention thus conceived is susceptible of numerous modifications and variations, all of which are within the scope of the inventive concept; all the details may furthermore be replaced with other technically equivalent elements.
  • In practice, the materials used, as well as the contingent shapes and dimensions, may be any according to the requirements and the state of the art.
  • The disclosures in Italian Patent Application No. 102021000000398 from which this application claims priority are incorporated herein by reference.
  • Where technical features mentioned in any claim are followed by reference signs, those reference signs have been included for the sole purpose of increasing the intelligibility of the claims and accordingly such reference signs do not have any limiting effect on the interpretation of each element identified by way of example by such reference signs.

Claims (11)

1-10. (canceled)
11. A method for the production of fabric or leather articles, particularly articles to be padded, comprising the steps of:
feeding at least two mutually superimposed cloths to an embroidery machine;
stepwise advancing of said superimposed cloths along a substantially rectilinear direction;
at said embroidery machine, automatic sewing of said at least two cloths along sewing lines according to a template that is stored and contains a pattern of reference sewing lines;
further comprising the steps of:
during said automatic sewing, applying a plurality of markings in the form of respective additional seams, said markings being distributed two-dimensionally on an exposed face of the cloths according to a corresponding arrangement of reference markings provided in said stored template;
after said automatic sewing, feeding to a station for the automatic cutting of the sewn portion of said superimposed cloths;
optically capturing said sewn portion and determining any displacement of said markings applied to said cloths with respect to the arrangement of the reference markings stored in said template;
based on said displacement and on the mutual arrangement of the reference markings and of the pattern of the sewing lines provided in said stored template, determining by interpolation the actual pattern of the sewing lines that is present on said sewn portion of the cloths;
automatically cutting said sewn portion, said cutting being performed substantially along said sewing lines on the basis of said actual pattern obtained with said interpolation, so as to automatically adapt said cutting to any relaxations and/or wrinkles of the cloths after said sewing step.
12. The method according to claim 11, wherein a thread used to obtain each applied marking preferably has a color that is optically distinguishable with respect to the coloring of the region of said face in which the respective marking is applied.
13. The method according to claim 11, wherein said arrangement of reference markings provided in said stored template comprises a plurality of peripheral reference markings and at least one internal reference marking, said at least one internal reference marking being arranged preferably laterally adjacent to a respective curved portion of one of the sewing lines of said pattern.
14. The method according to claim 11, wherein, in said automatic sewing step, said superimposed cloths are kept tensioned so as to form at least one substantially rectangle-like and planar sewing area, which is adapted to match up the sewing lines and the markings applied by said embroidery machine with said stored pattern and with said reference arrangement, respectively;
and wherein the side of said rectangle in the advancement direction of the cloths is substantially equal to, or is a submultiple of, said advancement step.
15. The method according to claim 14, wherein said automatic sewing step comprises a step of identically reproducing in parallel, by means of respective sewing heads, said sewing lines according to said pattern on a plurality of said rectangular areas arranged side by side along said substantially rectilinear direction, said advancement step being preferably substantially equal to the number of said rectangular areas multiplied by the length of said side.
16. The method according to claim 11, furthermore comprising: a step of temporarily accumulating said cloths between said sewing step and said cutting step in order to compensate for any differences in speed between these two steps; and an optional step of labeling the semi-finished products after said cutting step.
17. The method according to claim 11, wherein at least one of said sewing lines of said pattern is a substantially closed line, outside of which said reference markings are arranged, said sewing being interrupted along one or more portions of said substantially closed line, said portions being adapted to define a corresponding inlet for access to a respective pocket formed between the superimposed cloths by means of said sewing step, said method further comprising the optional step of inserting down inside said pocket.
18. An apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles, particularly of padded articles, adapted to perform the method according to claim 11, said apparatus comprising:
a feeder of a plurality of cloths, said feeder being configured to unwind said cloths from respective rolls in an advancement direction and to mutually superimpose them;
memory means comprising a stored template which contains a pattern of reference sewing lines and a plurality of reference markings arranged, with respect to said pattern, according to a reference arrangement;
an embroidery machine, comprising at least one sewing head and at least one frame adapted to tension and temporarily retain said superimposed cloths during sewing, said embroidery machine being associated with control means configured to perform, by means of relative movements between said at least one sewing head and said frame, an automatic sewing of said superimposed cloths along sewing lines that correspond to said pattern of the stored template;
said embroidery machine being adapted to apply two-dimensionally, on said superimposed cloths, a plurality of markings in the form of seams in positions that correspond to said reference arrangement stored in said template;
downstream of said embroidery machine with respect to said advancement direction, means for the optical capture of the cloths sewn by said embroidery machine and a machine for the automatic cutting of said sewn cloths;
control means comprising stored instructions for:
detecting, by means of said optical capture means, the position of said markings applied on said sewn cloths;
determining any displacement of said applied markings with respect to the reference arrangement stored in said template;
on the basis of said displacement and of the mutual arrangement of the reference markings and of the pattern of the sewing lines provided in said stored template, determining by interpolation the actual pattern of the sewing lines that is present on said sewn cloths, so as to automatically adapt said cutting to any relaxations and/or wrinkles of the sewn cloths after the release of said sewn cloths by the frame of the embroidery machine;
said automatic cutting machine being adapted to perform an automatic cutting of said cloths substantially along said sewing lines on the basis of said actual pattern obtained with said interpolation.
19. The apparatus according to claim 18, wherein said embroidery machine comprises a plurality of said sewing heads, arranged side by side along said advancement direction and adapted to replicate in parallel said sewing lines, according to said stored pattern, on a plurality of rectangular areas arranged side by side along said advancement direction;
and wherein said apparatus comprises, downstream of said embroidery machine and upstream of said automatic cutting machine, a buffer for the temporary accumulation of the sewn cloths in output from said embroidery machine, in order to compensate for any differences in speed between the machines upstream and downstream of said buffer.
20. The apparatus according to claim 18, wherein said capture means are arranged at said automatic cutting machine, which comprises:
an advancement belt adapted to receive, laid thereon, said sewn portion of the superimposed cloths that has exited from the embroidery machine;
a support which can move on command along said belt according to a plurality of axes and is provided with at least one cutting tool, said capture means being preferably mounted in a fixed position above said advancement belt so as to capture an entire rectangular area containing all the markings applied according to said reference arrangement.
US18/271,879 2021-01-12 2021-10-29 Method and apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles Pending US20240068143A1 (en)

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IT102021000000398A IT202100000398A1 (en) 2021-01-12 2021-01-12 PROCESS AND EQUIPMENT FOR PRODUCTION OF FABRIC OR LEATHER ITEMS.
IT102021000000398 2021-01-12
PCT/EP2021/080201 WO2022152424A1 (en) 2021-01-12 2021-10-29 Method and apparatus for the production of fabric or leather articles

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US3896749A (en) * 1973-11-16 1975-07-29 Novatronics Inc Automated sewing apparatus
DE3801820A1 (en) 1988-01-22 1988-11-24 Baeckmann Reinhard Process and apparatus for the quilting and cutting of upholstery parts and similar workpieces
DE19722616A1 (en) 1997-05-30 1998-12-03 Zsk Stickmasch Gmbh Embroidery machine frame
US7617751B2 (en) * 2004-03-23 2009-11-17 L&P Property Management Company Quilted fabric panel cutter
IT201600111981A1 (en) 2016-11-08 2018-05-08 Moncler S P A Manufacturing procedure for quilted semi-finished products for padded garments.

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EP4278034A1 (en) 2023-11-22
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CA3204034A1 (en) 2022-07-21
CN116685733A (en) 2023-09-01

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