US20200100545A1

US20200100545A1 - Fabric element suitable to receive underwire for garment

Info

Publication number: US20200100545A1
Application number: US16/617,767
Authority: US
Inventors: L.A.D. Krishan Chaminda Weerawansa; A. Nalantha Priyaranga De Alwis
Original assignee: Stretchline Intellectual Properties Ltd Virgin Islands
Current assignee: STRETCHLINE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTIES Ltd
Priority date: 2017-06-02
Filing date: 2018-06-01
Publication date: 2020-04-02
Also published as: GB2563075A; GB2563075B; GB201708849D0; CN110785095A; EP3629786A1; WO2018220403A1

Abstract

There is provided a method of making a fabric element (30). The fabric element (30) comprises a tubular fabric (32) and a pair of attachment flaps (34). The tubular fabric is (32) for receiving an underwire. Each attachment flap (34) includes an attachment surface for attachment to a second fabric. The method comprises the steps of arranging the pair of attachment flaps (34) to project from the tubular fabric (32) in opposite directions so as to define opposingly projecting attachment flaps (34), and arranging the tubular fabric (32) to partially or fully overlap the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps (34).

Description

This invention relates to methods of making a fabric element, a fabric arrangement and a garment, and relates to a fabric element, a fabric arrangement and a garment.
It is known to produce fabric tubing for receiving a curved underwire.
According to a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of making a fabric element, the fabric element comprising a tubular fabric and a pair of attachment flaps, the tubular fabric for receiving an underwire, each attachment flap including an attachment surface for attachment to a second fabric, the method comprising the steps of arranging the pair of attachment flaps to project from the tubular fabric in opposite directions so as to define opposingly projecting attachment flaps, and arranging the tubular fabric to partially or fully overlap the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps.
Once formed, a conventional tubular fabric is incorporated into a garment by sewing along the sides of the conventional tubular fabric in order to subsequently allow an underwire to be received in an internal cavity of the conventional tubular fabric. Such incorporation of the conventional tubular fabric into the garment imposes a minimum required width of the conventional tubular fabric in order to provide sufficient space on the sides of the conventional tubular fabric for the sewing lines. This is to ensure that there is no risk of the sewing lines overlapping with the internal cavity, the sewing lines are robust enough to secure the conventional tubular fabric to the garment, and also the sewing lines do not come out of the sides of the conventional tubular fabric when being handled during a sewing operation.
In addition, after the conventional tubular fabric is sewn to the garment, subsequent insertion of the underwire into the conventional tubular fabric is met with physical resistance if the width of the conventional tubular fabric is too small. This is because the conventional tubular fabric is restricted from adjusting its cross-sectional shape to accommodate the insertion of the underwire, due to the conventional tubular fabric being physically constrained on both of its sides that are sewn to the garment. This is especially the case for when the conventional tubular fabric and the underwire are both curved. Consequently, it is necessary to provide a minimum required width of the conventional tubular fabric in order to make it easier to subsequently insert the underwire into the conventional tubular fabric sewn to the garment.
Also, if the conventional tubular fabric sewn into the garment is not wide enough, it is necessary to squash the conventional tubular fabric in order to permit insertion of the underwire. For this reason, a minimum required width is imposed on the conventional tubular fabric in order to avoid having to squash the conventional tubular fabric when inserting the underwire.
One option for reducing the width of the conventional tubular fabric is by reducing the width of the underwire. The inventor has however found that it can be difficult to reduce the width of the underwire. This is because a narrower underwire tends to be weaker, bendy and lacking in support, and because using a narrower wire made from stronger materials can be cost-prohibitive.
In addition, when the conventional tubular fabric 20 is sewn onto the garment, any misalignment of the sewing lines 24 on the sides of the conventional tubular fabric 20 may result in a reduction in the width of the internal cavity 26 of the conventional tubular fabric 20, as shown in FIG. 1. This in turn could restrict the insertion of the underwire into the internal cavity 26. Also, if the sides of the conventional tubular fabric 20 are made narrower in order to reduce the overall width of the conventional tubular fabric 20, the narrower width of the sides increases the risk of the sewing lines 24 missing the sides of the conventional tubular fabric 20 and potentially overlapping with the internal cavity 26.
Furthermore, the presence of the sewing lines along the sides of the conventional tubular fabric not only increases the hardness of the conventional tubular fabric, which causes discomfort to a wearer, but also can adversely affect the aesthetics of the garment due to the visibility of the sewing lines along the sides of the conventional tubular fabric.
The method of making a fabric element of the invention addresses the foregoing issues with the conventional tubular fabric through the steps of arranging the pair of attachment flaps to project from the tubular fabric in opposite directions so as to define opposingly projecting attachment flaps, and arranging the tubular fabric to partially or fully overlap the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps.
The provision of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps overlapped by the tubular fabric allows a reduction in the width of the tubular fabric by eliminating the need to provide sufficient space on the sides of the tubular fabric for attachment to a second fabric. This is because the combination of the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric and the opposingly projecting attachment flaps means that the tubular fabric overlaps the attachment surfaces that are attached in use to a second fabric, which permits a reduction of space on the sides of the tubular fabric without hampering the ability to securely attach the tubular fabric to a second fabric. The reduction in width of the tubular fabric is beneficial in that a narrower tubular fabric is easier to curve underneath a user's breast to provide comfortable support, while a wider tubular fabric is comparatively harder to curve underneath the user's breast which causes discomfort.
Using the opposingly projecting attachment flaps to attach the fabric element to the second fabric enables the subsequent insertion of the underwire into the tubular fabric of the invention to be met with less physical resistance when compared to the insertion of the underwire into the conventional tubular fabric sewn to the garment. This is because, due to the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric and the opposingly projecting attachment flaps, the attachment flaps are positioned on one side of the tubular fabric, and hence the tubular fabric is physically constrained on only one of its sides when the fabric element via the attachment flaps is attached to the second fabric, which in turn allows the tubular fabric of the invention to readily adjust its cross-sectional shape to accommodate the insertion of the underwire. The invention is particularly useful for when the tubular fabric of the invention and the underwire are both curved.
Also, the opposingly projecting arrangement of the attachment flaps allows both attachment flaps to be attached to the second fabric in a manner that provides a secure attachment to the second fabric.
In addition the elimination of sewing lines along the sides of the tubular fabric not only avoids the problem of a reduction in the width of the internal cavity of the tubular fabric due to misaligned sewing lines, but also avoids the issues of increased hardness of the tubular fabric and visibility of sewing lines along the sides of the tubular fabric. Also, the structure of the fabric element of the invention allows sewing lines to be hidden to prevent the sewing lines from coming into contact with a user's skin, which can cause irritation.
Furthermore, when the fabric element via the attachment flaps is attached to the second fabric, the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric and the opposingly projecting attachment flaps results in the attachment flaps being partially or fully concealed by the tubular fabric, thus providing the combination of the fabric element and the second fabric with an aesthetically pleasing appearance.
The method of making a fabric element of the invention therefore produces a tubular fabric that is smaller widthwise, more comfortable and aesthetically more pleasing than the conventional tubular fabric.
When the tubular fabric overlaps the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps, the width of the tubular fabric may be equal to the combined width of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps. Alternatively, when the tubular fabric overlaps the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps, the width of the tubular fabric may be smaller or larger than the combined width of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps.
The width of the tubular fabric may be, for example, 5 mm, 6 mm or 7 mm. The width of the internal cavity of the tubular fabric may be in the range of, for example, 2 mm to 3 mm, 3 mm to 4 mm, or 4 mm to 5 mm. The width of the internal cavity of the tubular fabric may be, for example, in the range of 60% to 80%, e.g. 70%, of the width of the tubular fabric. The width of the space on each side of the tubular fabric may be, for example, in the range of 10% to 20%, e.g. 15%, of the width of the tubular fabric.
In embodiments of the invention, the method may further include the steps of providing a support yarn and a first fusible yarn, and forming the yarns into a tubular fabric and having the first fusible yarn arranged so that, on subsequent melting and cooling of the first fusible yarn, the tubular fabric forms a barrier to penetration by an underwire.
In such embodiments, the method may further include the step of melting and subsequently cooling the first fusible yarn so that the tubular fabric forms a barrier to penetration by an underwire.
Formation of a barrier to penetration by an underwire by the tubular fabric addresses the problem of underwire protrusion which may occur with conventional fabrics, either during the course of garment manufacture or in use by a wearer, resulting in product failure which can be costly and have a deleterious effect on customer satisfaction.
On the other hand, when the barrier is to be formed by a conventional tubular fabric that is incorporated into a garment by sewing along the sides of the conventional tubular fabric, there is a risk that any misaligned sewing line would overlap the internal cavity of the conventional tubular fabric and thereby compromise the integrity of the barrier in the region of the underwire.
The provision of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps overlapped by the tubular fabric addresses this issue by permitting the attachment of the fabric element to the second fabric in a way that does not interfere with the formation of the barrier. This is because the second fabric is attached to the attachment flaps, as opposed to being directly attached to the tubular fabric, and hence the attachment between the fabric element and the second fabric takes place away from the tubular fabric that forms the barrier.
Optionally the cross-section of the tubular fabric may have a closed shape. In such embodiments, the pair of attachment flaps may be arranged to be spaced apart or joined together at the edges at which the pair of attachment flaps are connected to the tubular fabric.
Further optionally the cross-section of the tubular fabric may have an open shape. When the tubular fabric is formed to have an open shape, the cross-section of the tubular fabric may then be altered from an open shape to a closed shape. For example, such alteration may be carried out by joining, e.g. stitching, the edges at which the attachment flaps are connected to the tubular fabric.
Still further optionally, the cross-section of the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps may have a Ω-shape. This shape provides a reliable means of providing a tubular fabric for receiving an underwire and of providing opposingly projecting attachment flaps.
Although the cross-section of the tubular fabric may have a closed shape or an open shape, the cross-section of the tubular fabric having a closed shape is preferred since it ensures that the underwire stays inside the tubular fabric instead of possibly exiting through a gap between the attachment flaps.
There are a variety of ways of making the fabric element of the invention, examples of which are described as follows.
In a first example, the method may further include the steps of initially providing an open or flat fabric, and subsequently folding the open or flat fabric into the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps.
The use of an open or flat fabric to form the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps allows the pair of attachment flaps to be integrally formed with the tubular fabric.
In such embodiments, the method may further include the step of passing the open or flat fabric through a guide that is shaped to fold the open or flat fabric into the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps. This step provides a reliable and straightforward means of obtaining a desired shape of the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps.
In further such embodiments, the step may further include the step of stitching along the edges at which the pair of attachment flaps are connected to the tubular fabric.
Edge stitching in this manner not only allows a clear division of the open or flat fabric between the tubular fabric and the pair of attachment flaps, but also helps to maintain the opposingly projecting arrangement of the attachment flaps.
In a second example, the method may further include the step of forming the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps by forming a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first, second and third fabric tapes, wherein the first and second fabric tapes are joined to form the tubular fabric, and the third tape is joined to one of the first and second fabric tapes to form the pair of attachment flaps.
In a third example, the method may further include the step of forming the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps by forming a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first and second fabric tapes, wherein the first and second fabric tapes are joined to form the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps.
In such embodiments, each fabric tape may be formed by weaving. In further such embodiments, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes may be formed simultaneously.
Forming the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps from the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes not only allows the pair of attachment flaps to be integrally formed with the tubular fabric, but also permits a reduction in the number of steps required to make the fabric element. Moreover, the individual shape and size of each overlaying fabric tape can be readily designed to obtain a desired overall shape and size of the tubular fabric and attachment flaps.
The plurality of overlaying fabric tapes may, for example, be woven using three threads on a loom when the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes includes first, second and third fabric tapes.
In a fourth example, the method may further include the steps of initially forming the tubular fabric, and subsequently joining a single fabric piece or a plurality of fabric pieces to the tubular fabric to form the pair of attachment flaps.
Forming the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps in this manner permits the use of different materials and different fabric making techniques for the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps.
In embodiments of the invention, each attachment flap may be: a single continuous flap section extending along a longitudinal axis of the tubular fabric; or a plurality of flap sections forming a discontinuous attachment flap extending along a longitudinal axis of the tubular fabric.
The use of a single continuous flap section forming a continuous attachment flap provides a stronger and more secure attachment to the second fabric, while the use of a plurality of flap sections forming a discontinuous attachment flap provides savings in terms of fabric material usage.
In further embodiments of the invention, the method may further include the steps of providing an elastomeric yarn and arranging the elastomeric yarn in the tubular fabric and/or the pair of attachment flaps. An elastomeric yarn lends the tubular fabric and/or pair of attachment flaps a desirable degree of flexibility or “give”, permitting the tubular fabric to curve to receive an underwire.
The method may further include the step of providing an adhesive on the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps so that, in use, the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps can be adhered to a second fabric. This ensures that the fabric element is ready for subsequent adhesion of the pair of attachment flaps to a second fabric.
The method may further include the steps of providing a second fusible yarn and arranging the second fusible yarn in the attachment flaps so that, in use, the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps can be fused to a second fabric. This ensures that the fabric element is ready for subsequent fusing of the pair of attachment flaps to a second fabric.
In still further embodiments of the invention, the method may further include the step of locating an underwire within a length of the tubular fabric. The step of locating an underwire within a length of the tubular fabric may be performed before or after attaching the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps to the second fabric.
According to a second aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of making a fabric arrangement, the fabric arrangement including a fabric element attached to a second fabric, wherein the method of making a fabric arrangement includes the method of making a fabric element according to any one of the embodiments of the first aspect of the invention, the method of making a fabric arrangement including the step of attaching the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps to the second fabric.
The features and advantages of the method of the first aspect of the invention and its embodiments apply mutatis mutandis to the method of the second aspect of the invention and its embodiments. As stated above, when the fabric element via the attachment flaps is attached to the second fabric, the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric and the opposingly projecting attachment flaps advantageously permits a reduction in the width of the tubular fabric when compared to the conventional tubular fabric, and also provides a more comfortable and aesthetically more pleasing tubular fabric than the conventional tubular fabric.
In embodiments of the invention, the method may include the step of arranging the tubular fabric to temporarily expose the attachment flaps when attaching the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps to the second fabric. Preferably the step of arranging the tubular fabric to temporarily expose the attachment flaps includes manipulating the shape of the cross-section of the tubular fabric, such as lifting part of the tubular fabric to reduce the amount of overlap between the tubular fabric and the attachment surfaces.
Such manipulation of the shape of the cross-section of the tubular fabric may be controlled by a specially designed guiding element, such as a folder. The folder may be in the form of, for example, a folded sheet, or a block piece with a hollow cross-section, The folder may be attached to a sewing machine, e.g. a twin needle (i.e. double needle) sewing machine, to enable the folder to manipulate the shape of the cross-section of the tubular fabric, e.g. by squeezing the tubular fabric, so as to expose the attachment flaps to the needle(s) of the sewing machine when the attachment surfaces are to be sewn to the second fabric.
In further embodiments of the invention, the second fabric may be a fabric of a garment. There are a variety of ways of making the fabric arrangement of the invention, examples of which are described as follows.
In a first example, the step of attaching the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps to the second fabric may include sewing the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps to the second fabric.
In a second example, when the method of making the fabric element includes the step of providing an adhesive on the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps, the step of attaching the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps to the second fabric may include using an adhesive to adhere the attachment surfaces to the second fabric.
In a third example, when the method of making the fabric element includes the steps of providing a second fusible yarn and arranging the second fusible yarn in the attachment flaps, the step of attaching the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps to the second fabric may include fusing the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps to the second fabric by melting and cooling the second fusible yarn in the attachment flaps.
It will be appreciated that the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps may be attached to the second fabric using either a single attachment technique or a plurality of attachment techniques.
According to a third aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of making a garment, the method of making a garment including the method of making a fabric arrangement according to any one of the embodiments of the second aspect of the invention, wherein the second fabric is or forms part of the garment.
The features and advantages of the methods of the first and second aspects of the invention and their embodiments apply mutatis mutandis to the method of the third aspect of the invention and its embodiments.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the garment is an underwired garment. The garment may be selected from a bra, basque, or a swimming costume.
According to a fourth aspect of the invention, there is provided a fabric element comprising a tubular fabric and a pair of attachment flaps, the tubular fabric for receiving an underwire, each attachment flap including an attachment surface for attachment to a second fabric, wherein the pair of attachment flaps are arranged to project from the tubular fabric in opposite directions so as to define opposingly projecting attachment flaps, and the tubular fabric is arranged to partially or fully overlap the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps.
The features and advantages of the method of the first aspect of the invention and its embodiments apply mutatis mutandis to the fabric element of the fourth aspect of the invention and its embodiments.
In the fabric element of the invention, the tubular fabric may include a support yarn and a first fusible yarn, wherein the first fusible yarn is arranged in the tubular fabric so that, on subsequent melting and cooling of the first fusible yarn, the tubular fabric forms a barrier to penetration by an underwire.
In the fabric element of the invention, the first fusible yarn may be in a melted and cooled state so that the tubular fabric forms a barrier to penetration by an underwire.
Optionally, in the fabric element of the invention, the cross-section of the tubular fabric may have a closed shape. When the cross-section of the tubular fabric has a closed shape, the pair of the pair of attachment flaps may be arranged to be spaced apart or joined together at the edges at which the pair of attachment flaps are connected to the tubular fabric. Further optionally, in the fabric element of the invention, the cross-section of the tubular fabric may have an open shape. Still further optionally, in the fabric element of the invention, the cross-section of the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps may have a Ω-shape.
In the fabric element of the invention, the fabric element may further include stitches along the edges at which the pair of attachment flaps are connected to the tubular fabric.
In the fabric element of the invention, the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps may be formed of a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first, second and third fabric tapes, wherein the first and second fabric tapes are joined to form the tubular fabric, and the third tape is joined to one of the first and second fabric tapes to form the pair of attachment flaps.
In the fabric element of the invention, the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps may be formed of a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first and second fabric tapes, wherein the first and second fabric tapes are joined to form the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps.
In the fabric element of the invention, the pair of attachment flaps may be formed of a single fabric piece or a plurality of fabric pieces joined to the tubular fabric.
In the fabric element of the invention, each attachment flap may be: a single continuous flap section extending along a longitudinal axis of the tubular fabric; or a plurality of flap sections forming a discontinuous attachment flap extending along a longitudinal axis of the tubular fabric.
In the fabric element of the invention, the fabric element may include an elastomeric yarn arranged in the tubular fabric and/or pair of attachment flaps.
In the fabric element of the invention, the fabric element may include an adhesive provided on the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps so that, in use, the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps can be adhered to a second fabric.
In the fabric element of the invention, the fabric element may include a second fusible yarn arranged in the attachment flaps so that, in use, the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps can be fused to a second fabric.
In the fabric element of the invention, the fabric element may include an underwire located within a length of the tubular fabric.
According to a further aspect of the invention, there is provided a fabric arrangement including a fabric element attached to a second fabric, wherein the fabric element is in accordance with any one of the embodiments of the fabric element of the fourth aspect of the invention, and the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps are attached to the second fabric.
The features and advantages of the methods of the first and second aspects of the invention, the fabric element of the fourth aspect of the invention and their embodiments apply mutatis mutandis to the fabric arrangement of the fifth aspect of the invention and its embodiments.
In the fabric arrangement of the invention, the second fabric may be a fabric of a garment.
In the fabric arrangement of the invention, the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps may be sewn to the second fabric.
In the fabric arrangement of the invention, when the fabric element includes the adhesive, the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps may be adhered to the second fabric by an adhesive provided between the attachment surfaces and the second fabric.
In the fabric arrangement of the invention, when the fabric element includes the second fusible yarn, the second fusible yarn may be in a melted and cooled state so that the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps are fused to the second fabric.
According to a sixth aspect of the invention, there is provided a garment comprising a fabric arrangement according to any one of the embodiments of the fifth aspect of the invention, wherein the second fabric is or forms part of the garment.
The features and advantages of the methods, fabric element and fabric arrangement of the first to fifth aspects of the invention and their embodiments apply mutatis mutandis to the garment of the sixth aspect of the invention and its embodiments.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the garment is an underwired garment. The garment may be selected from a bra, basque, or a swimming costume.
In another aspect of the invention, there is provided a fabric element obtainable or obtained by the method according to any one of the embodiments of the first aspect of the invention.
In a further aspect of the invention, there is provided a fabric arrangement obtainable or obtained by the method according to any one of the embodiments of the second aspect of the invention.
In a still further aspect of the invention, there is provided a garment obtainable or obtained by the method according to any one of the embodiments of the third aspect of the invention.
It will be appreciated that the use of the terms “first” and “second”, and the like in this patent specification is merely intended to help distinguish between similar features (e.g. the first and second fusible yarns). Therefore, it will be appreciated that, in embodiments of the invention employing the use of a second fusible yarn, the first fusible yarn may or may not be present in those embodiments.

Preferred embodiments of the invention will now be described, by way of non-limiting examples, with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 shows a conventional tubular fabric;

FIGS. 2 to 4 shows a cross-sectional view of a fabric element according to an embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 5 illustrates a method for attaching the fabric element of FIG. 2 to a second fabric according to an embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 6 shows a cross-sectional view of a fabric element according to an embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 7 illustrates a method for attaching the fabric element of FIG. 6 to a second fabric according to an embodiment of the invention;

FIGS. 8 and 9 illustrate a first example of a method of making a fabric element according to an embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 10 shows a cross-section of a guide for use in the method of FIG. 7;

FIGS. 11 and 12 respectively show Reed and Heald plans for weaving the fabric element for use in the method of FIGS. 8 and 9;

FIG. 13 illustrates a second example of a method of making a fabric element according to an embodiment of the invention;

FIGS. 14 and 15 respectively show components of a loom;

FIGS. 16 and 17 respectively show exemplary Reed and Heald plans for weaving the fabric element for use in the method of FIG. 13;

FIG. 18 illustrates a third example of a method of making a fabric element according to an embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 19 shows a comparison of the conventional tubular fabric and the fabric element of FIG. 2; and

FIG. 20 shows a comparison of the conventional tubular fabric and the fabric element of FIG. 6.

The figures are not necessarily to scale, and certain features and certain views of the figures may be shown exaggerated in scale or in schematic form in the interests of clarity and conciseness.
A fabric element according to a first embodiment of the invention is shown in FIGS. 2 and 3, and is designated generally by the reference numeral 30.
The fabric element 30 comprises a tubular fabric 32 and a pair of attachment flaps 34. In use, an internal cavity 36 of the tubular fabric 32 receives an underwire, as shown in FIG. 4. Each attachment flap 34 includes an attachment surface for attachment to a second fabric.
In the embodiment shown in FIG. 2, the cross-section of the tubular fabric 32 and pair of attachment flaps 34 has a Ω-shape. The cross-section of the tubular fabric 32 has a closed shape, and the pair of attachment flaps 34 are joined together at the edges at which the pair of attachment flaps 34 are connected to the tubular fabric 32. In addition the pair of attachment flaps 34 project from the tubular fabric 32 in opposite directions so as to define opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34, and the tubular fabric 32 is arranged to fully overlap the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34. In other embodiments, it is envisaged that the tubular fabric 32 may be arranged to partially overlap the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34.
Each attachment flap 34 is a single continuous flap section extending along a longitudinal axis of the tubular fabric 32, but in other embodiments may be in the form of a plurality of flap sections forming a discontinuous attachment flap 34 extending along a longitudinal axis of the tubular fabric 32. Preferably each attachment flap 34 extends along the whole length of the longitudinal axis of the tubular fabric 32 or substantially along the whole length of the longitudinal axis of the tubular fabric 32, so that the tubular fabric 32 can be attached along the whole, or substantially the whole, of the length of its longitudinal axis to a second fabric.
The tubular fabric 32 comprises a support yarn and a first fusible yarn. The first fusible yarn is arranged so that, on subsequent melting and cooling of the first fusible yarn, the tubular fabric 32 forms a barrier to penetration by an underwire.
By “fusible yarn” we mean a yarn that can be melted above a first temperature and cooled to adhere to a support yarn. The term “fusible yarn” therefore includes a yarn having fusible or adhesive properties (for example, yarns having an adhesive surface) and which is capable of being melted above a first temperature and cooled to adhere to the support yarn.
Preferably, the first fusible yarn is treated by heating whereby it melts and spreads within the tubular fabric 32. On cooling, the fusible yarn adheres to the other yarns of the tubular fabric 32 to produce a tubular fabric 32 that forms a barrier to penetration by an underwire. It will be understood that the melted first fusible yarn adheres to the warp and weft yarns in the tubular fabric 32 and bonds those yarns to one another, thereby further stabilising the tubular fabric 32 and preventing and/or retarding the weft yarns from being removed from the tubular fabric 32.
Further, exemplary details of the formation of the barrier to penetration by an underwire is described elsewhere in this patent specification.
Preferably an elastomeric yarn is provided in the tubular fabric 32 and the pair of attachment flaps 34 so as to provide the tubular fabric 32 and pair of attachment flaps 34 with a desirable degree of flexibility or “give”, so that the tubular fabric 32 is permitted to curve to receive an underwire.
The fabric element 30 can be attached to a second fabric, which may be or may form part of a garment. Such attachment is carried out by attaching the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps 34 to the second fabric, examples of which are described as follows.
In a first exemplary attachment method illustrated in FIG. 5, the attachment surfaces are sewn to the second fabric 38 using a twin needle sewing machine. In order to use the sewing machine to sew the attachment surfaces to the second fabric 38, the sewing machine must be provided with access to the attachment flaps 34, which may be hindered by the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric 32 and the pair of attachment flaps 34.
In order to facilitate the sewing of the attachment surfaces to the second fabric 38, the shape of the cross-section of the tubular fabric 32 is initially manipulated using a specially designed folder 40 attached to the twin needle sewing machine. The folder 40 is in the form of a metal sheet that is folded to have a hollow profile.
The manipulation of the shape of the cross-section of the tubular fabric 32 is achieved by feeding the fabric element 30 through a hollow profile of the folder 40. The shape of the hollow profile squeezes the tubular fabric 32 and thereby causes part of the tubular fabric 32 to be lifted so that the tubular fabric has a narrower width that results in a reduction of the amount of overlap between the tubular fabric 32 and the attachment flaps 34. This in turn provides twin needles 42 of the sewing machine with access to the respective attachment flaps 34, thus permitting the operation of the twin needles 42 to sew the respective attachment surfaces to the second fabric 38. The folder 40 may be located near the twin needles 42 in order to hold the shape of the cross-section of the tubular fabric 32 during the sewing of the attachment surfaces to the second fabric 38.
The twin needles 42 of the sewing machine are spaced apart to permit simultaneous sewing of the attachment surfaces to the second fabric 38. The required spacing between the twin needles 42 is not only determined by the respective widths of the attachment flaps 34, but also determined by the extent to which the folder 40 is able to manipulate the shape of the cross-section of the tubular fabric 32 to provide the twin needles 42 with access to the respective attachment flaps 34.
The provision of the specially designed folder 40 therefore enables manipulation of the shape of the cross-section of the tubular fabric 32 so as to expose the attachment flaps 34 to the twin needles 42 of the sewing machine in order to permit the sewing machine to access the attachment surfaces for sewing.
After the attachment surfaces are sewn to the second fabric 38, the cross-section of the tubular fabric 32 is permitted to return to its original shape that provides the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric 32 and the pair of attachment flaps 34. An additional pressing step may be required to fold the tubular fabric over the attachment flaps to provide the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric 32 and the pair of attachment flaps 34.
In a second exemplary attachment method, the attachment surfaces are adhered to the second fabric by an adhesive provided between the attachment surfaces and the second fabric. Before adhering the attachment surfaces to the second fabric, the adhesive may be first provided on either or both of the attachment surfaces and the second fabric. Alternatively or additionally, the adhesive may be fed as a separate element between the attachment surfaces and the second fabric.
Such adhesive may include a hot-melt adhesive film (such as, for example, the adhesive film known as Bemis Sewfree™ 3405) which is melted and cooled to adhere the attachments surfaces and the second fabric.
The adhesive may be selected so as to not require heat in order to adhere the attachment surfaces to the second fabric, but may simply require the application of pressure and thereby involve pressing each attachment flap 34 and the second fabric together by passing them through a nip roller.
In a third exemplary attachment method, a second fusible yarn is arranged in the attachment flaps 34, and is subsequently melted and cooled to fuse the attachment surfaces with the second fabric. In particular, each attachment surface may be contacted with a second fabric and heated to a temperature which melts the second fusible yarn and allows it to spread over the yarns of the attachment flap 34 and the second fabric; on cooling, the second fusible yarn sets and adheres the attachment surface to the second fabric.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, the first fusible yarn has a lower melting point than the second fusible yarn—the use of such yarns is preferable because it allows the fabric element 30 to be heated to a temperature which melts the first fusible yarn (and thereby allows the tubular fabric 32 to form a barrier to penetration by an underwire) but which does not melt the second fusible yarn. Thus, in that preferred embodiment, the tubular fabric 32 can form the barrier to penetration by an underwire and which is capable of being fused to a second fabric by means of the attachment flaps 34 comprising a second fusible yarn.
Each attachment surface may be attached or fused to the second fabric by pressing each attachment flap 34 and the second fabric together by passing them through a nip roller.
Preferably, the step of fusing and/or adhering the attachment surfaces to the second fabric is performed using machinery capable of contacting the attachment flap 34 and the second fabric, heating the second fusible yarn and/or the hot-melt adhesive by hot air, and passing the contacted attachment surfaces and second fabric through a nip roller. Preferably heated belt feeds or heated rollers may be employed to maintain the application of heat whilst applying pressure.
Machinery suitable for performing that step are known in the art of textile manufacture and include, for example, the hemming machine described in WO 2004/095961 (A D Turner Ltd.) and produced by Sew Systems Limited (Nottingham, UK), or the heat-bonding machine produced by MACPI (Italy).
It will be appreciated that a plurality of attachment methods can be used to attach the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps 34 to the second fabric.
It will be appreciated that the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps 34 may be attached to the second fabric using either a single attachment technique or a plurality of attachment techniques.
A fabric element according to a second embodiment of the invention is shown in FIG. 6, and is designated generally by the reference numeral 130. The fabric element 130 of FIG. 6 is similar in structure and configuration to the fabric element 30 of FIG. 2, and like features share the same reference numerals.
The fabric element 130 of FIG. 6 differs from the fabric element 30 of FIG. 2 in that, in the fabric element 130 of FIG. 6, the cross-section of the tubular fabric 32 has an open shape, and the pair of attachment flaps 34 are spaced apart at the edges at which the pair of attachment flaps 34 are connected to the tubular fabric 32.
Optionally, when the first exemplary attachment method is used to attach the fabric element 130 to the second fabric 38 as illustrated in FIG. 7, the tubular fabric 32 and attachment flaps 34 may be formed by feeding an open or flat fabric through the hollow profile of the folder 40. The shape of the hollow profile manipulates the shape of the open or flat fabric to form the tubular fabric 32 and attachment flaps 34 in a way that exposes the attachment flaps 34 to the twin needles 42 of the sewing machine to permit sewing of the attachment surfaces to the second fabric 38. After the attachment surfaces are sewn to the second fabric 38, the tubular fabric 32 is permitted to fold over the attachment flaps to provide the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric 32 and the pair of attachment flaps 34.
It will be appreciated that the fabric element 130 of FIG. 6 can be converted to the fabric element 30 of FIG. 2 by joining, e.g. stitching, the attachment flaps 34 together at the edges at which the pair of attachment flaps 34 are connected to the tubular fabric 32.
The fabric element 30, 130 of the invention may be made in a number of ways, examples of which are described as follows.
In a first example illustrated in FIG. 8, an open or flat fabric 44 is initially provided. The open or flat fabric 44 is then folded into the tubular fabric 32 and pair of attachment flaps 34, as shown in FIG. 9. Such folding may be carried out by passing the open or flat fabric 44 through a guide 46 that is shaped to fold the open or flat fabric 44 into the tubular fabric 32 and pair of attachment flaps 34. FIG. 10 shows the guide 46 for folding the open or flat fabric 44 into the tubular fabric 32 and pair of attachment flaps 34.
Thereafter, stitches are added along the edges at which the pair of attachment flaps 34 are connected to the tubular fabric 32, in order to provide a clear division of the open or flat fabric 44 between the tubular fabric 32 and the pair of attachment flaps 34 and to maintain the opposingly projecting arrangement of the attachment flaps 34.
FIGS. 11 and 12 respectively show exemplary Reed and Heald plans for weaving the fabric element for use in the first example. The composition of the fabric element is 87% nylon, 7% low melting adhesive yarn and 6% spandex, but the composition may vary depending on the desired performance of the fabric element. The fabric element is woven using two different weave patterns of nylon warp yarns and one weft yarn with a binding thread. The maximum finished stretch of the fabric element is about 20%, with a capability to withstand a pin penetration force of up to 31 kgf.
In a second example illustrated in FIG. 13, the tubular fabric 32 and pair of attachment flaps 34 are formed by forming a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first, second and third fabric tapes 48, 50, 52, wherein the first and second fabric tapes 48, 50 are joined to form the tubular fabric 32, and the third tape 52 is joined to one of the first and second fabric tapes 48,50 to form the pair of attachment flaps 34. More particularly, a line edge of the first fabric tape 48 is joined to a line edge of the second fabric tape 50 to form the tubular fabric 32, and a line portion partway along the second fabric tape 50 is joined to a line portion located partway along the third fabric tape 52 to form the pair of attachment flaps 34 which project from the tubular fabric at the joined line portions.
The plurality of overlaying fabric tapes may, for example, be simultaneously woven using three threads on a loom. FIGS. 15 and 16 respectively show components of the loom in the form of a latch needle holder 56, and triple eye healds 48 for drawing yarns, which can be used in combination with three needles to simultaneously weave the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes from the three threads.
FIGS. 16 and 17 show exemplary Reed and Heald plans for weaving the fabric element for use in the second example. The composition of the fabric element is 88% nylon, 7% low melting adhesive yarn and 5% spandex, but the composition may vary depending on the desired performance of the fabric element. The fabric element is woven using five different weave patterns of nylon warp yarns and three weft yarns with a binding thread. The maximum finished stretch of the fabric element is about 20%, with a capability to withstand a pin penetration force of up to 26 kgf.
In a third example illustrated in FIG. 18, the tubular fabric 32 and pair of attachment flaps 34 are formed of a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first and second fabric tapes, wherein the first and second fabric tapes are joined to form the tubular fabric 32 and pair of attachment flaps 34. More particularly, a line edge of the first fabric tape is joined to a line edge of the second fabric tape, and a line portion partway along the first fabric tape is joined to a line portion located partway along the second fabric tape. This results in the formation of the tubular fabric 32 and pair of attachment flaps 34, where the pair of attachment flaps project from the tubular fabric at the joined line portions.
In a fourth example, the tubular fabric 32 is initially formed on its own. Thereafter, a single fabric piece or a plurality of fabric pieces are added to the tubular fabric 32 to form the pair of opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34. In the case of the single fabric piece, the tubular fabric 32 is joined to the single fabric piece so as to divide the single fabric piece into the pair of opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34.
The provision of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34 overlapped by the tubular fabric 32 allows a reduction in the width of the tubular fabric 32 by eliminating the need to provide sufficient space on the sides of the tubular fabric 32 for attachment to a second fabric. This is because the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric 32 and the opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34 means that the tubular fabric 32 overlaps the attachment surfaces that are attached in use to a second fabric, which permits a reduction of space on the sides of the tubular fabric 32 without hampering the ability to securely attach the tubular fabric 32 to a second fabric. The reduction in width of the tubular fabric 32 is beneficial in that a narrower tubular fabric is easier to curve underneath a user's breast to provide comfortable support, while a wider tubular fabric is comparatively harder to curve underneath the user's breast which causes discomfort.
FIG. 19 shows a comparison of the conventional tubular fabric 20 and the fabric element 30 of FIG. 2, while FIG. 20 shows a comparison of the conventional tubular fabric 20 and the fabric element 130 of FIG. 6. It can be seen from FIGS. 19 and 20 that the fabric elements 30, 130 of FIGS. 2 and 6 are significantly narrower in overall width than the conventional tubular fabric 20, without having to change the size of its internal cavity 36. Meanwhile, in spite of their narrower overall widths, the fabric elements 30, 130 of FIGS. 2 and 6 can be attached to a second fabric via their pair of opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34.
Due to the overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric 32 and the opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34, the attachment flaps 34 are positioned on one side of the tubular fabric 32. This means that, when the fabric element 30, 130 via the attachment flaps 34 is attached to the second fabric, the tubular fabric 32 is physically constrained on only one of its sides, which in turn allows the tubular fabric 32 to readily adjust its cross-sectional shape to accommodate the underwire that is being inserted into the tubular fabric 32. This has the effect of reducing any physical resistance to the subsequent insertion of the underwire into the tubular fabric 32 after the fabric element 30, 130 is attached to the second fabric.
In contrast, since the conventional tubular fabric 20 is sewn along its sides to a garment, the conventional tubular fabric 20 is physically constrained on both of its sides that are sewn to the garment. Thus, the conventional tubular fabric 20 is restricted from adjusting its cross-sectional shape when the underwire is being inserted into the conventional tubular fabric 20 that is already sewn to the garment. This results in the subsequent insertion of the underwire into the conventional tubular fabric 20 being met with physical resistance if the width of the conventional tubular fabric 20 is too small, thereby necessitating a minimum required width of the conventional tubular fabric 20 in order to make it easier to subsequently insert the underwire into the conventional tubular fabric 20 sewn to the garment.
Hence, in comparison to the conventional tubular fabric 20 sewn to a garment, the structural features of the fabric element 30, 130 of the invention makes it easier to insert an underwire into the tubular fabric 32 after the fabric element 30, 130 via the attachment flaps 34 is attached to the second fabric.
Also, the opposingly projecting arrangement of the attachment flaps 34 allows both attachment flaps 34 to be attached to the second fabric in a manner that provides a secure attachment to the second fabric.
In addition the elimination of sewing lines along the sides of the tubular fabric 32 not only avoids the problem of a reduction in the width of the internal cavity 36 of the tubular fabric 32 due to misaligned sewing lines, but also avoids the issues of increased hardness of the tubular fabric 32 and visibility of sewing lines along the sides of the tubular fabric 32. Also, the structure of the fabric element 30,130 allows sewing lines to be hidden to prevent the sewing lines from coming into contact with a user's skin, which can cause irritation.
The overlapping arrangement of the tubular fabric 32 and the opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34 enables the attachment flaps 32 to be concealed by the tubular fabric 32 when the fabric element 30, 130 via the attachment flaps 34 is attached to the second fabric. This provides the combination of the fabric element 30, 130 and the second fabric with an aesthetically pleasing appearance.
The method of making a fabric element 30, 130 of the invention therefore produces a tubular fabric 32 that is smaller widthwise, more comfortable and aesthetically more pleasing than the conventional tubular fabric 20.
Formation of a barrier to penetration by an underwire by the tubular fabric 32 addresses the problem of underwire protrusion which may occur with conventional fabrics, either during the course of garment manufacture or in use by a wearer, resulting in product failure which can be costly and have a deleterious effect on customer satisfaction.
The penetration-resistant characteristic of the barrier is further improved by the provision of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps 34 overlapped by the tubular fabric 32. This is because the second fabric is attached to the attachment flaps 34, as opposed to being directly attached to the tubular fabric 32, and hence the attachment between the fabric element 30, 130 and the second fabric takes place away from the tubular fabric 32 that forms the barrier. Hence, the attachment of the fabric element 30, 130 to the second fabric does not interfere with the formation of the barrier and therefore does not affect its integrity.
The tubular fabric 32 produced in accordance with the invention is extremely resistant to penetration by underwires. The tubular fabric 32 of the invention is particularly suitable for receiving underwires and is useful in the manufacture of a range of underwired garments including bras, basques and swimming costumes. The tubular fabric 32 of the invention can be incorporated into a garment before or after the underwire is located.
Further details of the features of the embodiments of the invention are set out as follows.
Exemplary details of how to make tubular fabric suitable for use in the invention are provided in the following documents: UK patent publication Nos. 2,309,038 and 2,366,574 (Price Shepshed Limited). However, those documents do not describe a fabric element 30, 130 comprising a tubular fabric 32 and a pair of attachment flaps 34, wherein the attachment flaps 34 are in the opposingly projecting arrangement, and the tubular fabric 32 overlaps the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps 34.
The most preferred fusible yarn for use as a first fusible yarn and/or a second fusible yarn is a polyamide yarn, especially that sold by EMS-CHEMI AG of CH-7013 Domat/EMS, Switzerland under the name Grilon™.
Advantageously, the fusible yarn for use as a first fusible yarn and/or a second fusible yarn is in the form of a multifilament, preferably comprising 14 filaments.
Whilst fusible yarn in the form of monofilaments, such as those produced by Luxilon Industries in Belgium (under the trade name “Luxilon”), or Toray Industries in Japan, could be used in the present invention, a multifilament yarn is preferred for use as a first fusible yarn and/or a second fusible yarn because on melting it spreads more easily over the fabric. In contrast, the melting of a monofilament produces a less even spread which may be less comfortable to a wearer of a finished garment incorporating the tubular fabric 32 of the invention.
An alternative fusible yarn to Grilon™ that may be used in the method of the invention is Bellcouple, which is manufactured by Kanebo Gohsen Limited in Japan. Bellcouple has is a bicomponent multifilament yarn which has a nylon or polyester core covered by a layer of fusible material (i.e. material with a low melting point). When heated at 160-190° C., the low-melting polyester in the sheath of Bellcouple melts and bonds multifilaments into resilient monofilament yarns.
The following types of Bellcouple are available:


	Fineness	Strength	Elongation	Thermal
Type	(dT)	(CN/dT)	(%)	Shrinkage (%)

56/24 LHD	53.8	4.32	38.6	9.0
(bright)
84/24 LHD	81.6	4.43	37.4	8.5
(bright)
167/16 LHC	161.3	4.19	30.0	8.5
(bright)
28/01 LCO	27.8	3.62	48.0	7.0
(bright)
26/01 LHC	25.0	5.30	25.0	8.0
(bright)
33/01 LHC	32.7	5.30	22.0	8.0
(bright)
280/16 LCO	277.8	4.15	39.0	4.0
(bright)

Another fusible yarn which may be suitable for use in the method according to the invention is marketed as “Glurex” by Mipan/Hyosung.
Preferably, the first fusible yarn melts at less than 100° C., preferably 90° C. or less, more preferably a melting point of from 75° C. to 90° C., and can be cooled to produce a material having a higher melting point than the first temperature, and preferably more than 100° C. The most preferred first fusible yarn has a melting point of approximately 85° C.
A preferred fusible polyamide for use as a first fusible yarn is Grilon™ K-85, or a yarn which has substantially the same properties as Grilon™ K-85, which has a melting point of approximately 85° C. and a preferred yarn count dtex of 75. According to the manufacturer's technical data sheet Grilon™ K-85 has the following properties:—

- Melting range: 78-88° C. (172-190° F.)
- Application temperature range: 95-120° C. (203-248° F.)
- Melt viscosity DIN 53735, 160° C./21.6N: 900 Pa·s
- Yarn count: 75 dtex 14 filaments
- Tenacity: 28 cN/tex
- Elongation at break: 40-70%
- Twist: 300Z T/m
- Wash resistive: 40° C.
- Dry cleaning resistance: PER-Chloro resistant

A particular preferred feature of Grilon™ is that on cooling it retains a melting point “memory” for the temperature reached during the dyeing process i.e. after the dyeing process the melting point of the first fusible yarn changes from 85° C. to 100° C. or more. It will be appreciated that this feature confers the important advantage that the tubular fabric 32 will not deteriorate on washing by a user in a washing machine because the “new” melting point of the melted first fusible yarn will not be reached during normal washing.
A skilled person will understand that a first fusible yarn of the invention is intended to include any yarn which can melt at a predetermined temperature, preferably 70-90° C., more preferably 75-90° C., and adhere to other yarns of the fabric so that the fabric forms a penetration barrier. On cooling, the melted first fusible yarn preferably produces a coating, which has a melting temperature in excess of the predetermined temperature and preferably in excess of 100° C.
Preferably, the first fusible yarn is combined with a support yarn (such as Nylon or a textured Nylon) in order to strengthen the first fusible yarn, which may be advantageous during the process of fabric manufacture (for example, enabling machinery to be run at greater speed). Combining the first fusible yarn with a support yarn may also improve the spread of the fusible yarn within the fabric once it is melted. Methods for combining the fusible yarn with a support yarn will be well known to those skilled the art of fabric manufacture. A particularly preferred textured support yarn is 1/44/12 textured Nylon or 1/78/24 textured Nylon.
By “support yarn” we include any yarn that is used to form a basic structure of a fabric to which other yarn types may be added. Preferably, one or more support yarn is arranged in the warp and weft direction of a fabric and interwoven to form a basic fabric structure. Support yarns generally possess characteristics to maintain the integrity of a fabric structure—for example, they have minimal elasticity (unlike elastomeric yarns) and retain their form at relatively high temperatures (unlike fusible yarns).
Preferably, the support yarn is a polyamide, especially a textured polyamide. The support yarn is preferably composed of multifilaments. Preferred support yarns include Nylon 6 or Nylon 66 sold by Invista (formerly Du Pont), which comprises a 24 filament, textured polyamide yarn.
The yarns may be formed into the fabric element 30, 130 by a weaving process or by a knitting process employing a known fine gauge multi-bar warp or crochet knitting machine.
The second fusible yarn may be arranged in each attachment flap 34 in the warp-direction or weft-direction.
The first fusible yarn may be arranged in the tubular fabric 32 in the warp-direction or weft-direction.
The terms “warp direction” and “weft direction” will be well understood to those skilled in the art of textiles manufacture, By “warp direction” we mean the length-ways direction of a fabric, and by “weft direction” we mean the width-ways direction of the fabric. Thus, by “arranged in the warp direction”, we mean that one or more yarn is arranged wholly or substantially along the length of the fabric (i.e. in the length-ways direction of the fabric).
A warpways arrangement of the first fusible yarn in the tubular fabric 32 has an additional advantage in that a sharp edge or point is not formed when the end of the tubular fabric 32 is cut. The tubular fabric 32 can therefore be incorporated directly into a garment and the cut end of the tubular fabric 32 worn comfortably, thereby removing the need for additional manufacturing steps (such as sewing over, or folding back, the end of the tubular fabric 32) that have been used to improve the comfort of previous fabrics. Accordingly, a warpwise arrangement reduces the number of manufacturing steps and cost associated with incorporating a tubular fabric 32 into an underwired garment.
The term “elastomeric yarn” has a meaning well known in the art and a skilled person will appreciate that a range of elastomeric yarns could be employed. However, an elastane (e.g. Lycra™) is preferred both for its well proven performance and widespread commercial acceptance. Preferably, the elastane is covered with a polyamide yarn. A particularly preferred Lycra™ yarn comprises a core of 235 decitex (dtex) Lycra™ (Invista, formerly Du Pont) covered on top by 1 fold 78 dtex textured 18 filament Nylon 6 (Invista, formerly Du Pont) and on the bottom by 1 fold 78 dtex textured 18 filament Nylon 6 (Invista, formerly Du Pont). Another particularly preferred Lycra™ yarn is a Lycra™ T400® fibre, which is a multi-component yarn comprising different polymers that are joined together within each filament. Each polymer upon exposure to heat shrinks to a different degree so as to produce a smooth helical crimp.
The polyamide yarn may be textured and/or may be composed of a plurality of filaments.
Preferably, threads are woven more loosely on one side of the fabric element 30, 130 to produce “soft” surfaces for increased comfort to a subsequent wearer.
Preferably the yarns are textured for improved comfort and low shrinkage properties. Advantageously, the yarns are composed of multifilaments.
A particularly preferred polyamide yarn is 2 fold 78 dtex textured Nylon 6 or Nylon 66 comprising 20/23 air mingled filaments. These yarns are available from Invista (formerly Du Pont).
Preferably, the fusible yarn is 1 fold 75 dtex 14 filament Grilon™ K-85, available from EMS, Switzerland.
Preferably the fabric further comprises a catch thread which serves to make a smaller softer knitted edge. Conveniently, the catch thread comprises 1 fold 44 dtex air mingled 13 filament or a 78 dtex 23 filament 1 fold textured Nylon 6 or Nylon 66 (Invista, formerly Du Pont).
A skilled person will appreciate that the term decitex (dtex) refers to the thickness of the yarn. Yarns having a lower dtex than the preferred dtex mentioned above would produce a thinner fabric, which may be less comfortable to wear. Yarns with a higher dtex would produce a thicker fabric, which may be less flexible.
In the finished fabric weight the percentages of the different yarns are preferably in the ranges:—
(i) fusible yarn 4-10%, especially approximately 6%;
(ii) catch thread less than 1%; and
(iii) support yarn—balance to give 100%
If the fabric of the invention further comprises an elastomeric yarn, the percentage of elastomeric yarn in the finished fabric weight is preferably in the range:—
(iv) elastomeric yarn 0.5%-15%, especially 1-2%.
If monofilament yarn is used for the fusible yarn, more yarn may be required to achieve satisfactory spreading, and the preferred range is from 5-20%, especially approximately 10%.
Preferably, the yarns are pre-shrunk using conventional heat treatments/washing. This improves the dimensional stability of the final fabric product.
Importantly, fabric made in accordance with the method of the invention preferably displays minimal shrinkage when subjected to a normal washing process. Typically, fabrics made in accordance with the method of the invention preferably have a stability of −3.0% or less (preferably −1.5% or less). A stability value of −3.0% means that upon washing one meter of fabric shrinks to 97 cm. A stability value of −1.5% means that one meter of fabric shrinks to 98.5 cm. Excessive shrinkage of a tubular fabric 32 containing an underwire is undesirable because the tubular fabric 32 may shrink to a length similar to or less than the length of the contained underwire, which generates and/or increases the force of the underwire on the tubular fabric 32 and may lead to penetration of the underwire through the tubular fabric 32.
Advantageously, when the first fusible yarn and support yarns are polyamide, the heat treatment to form the barrier to penetration by an underwire comprises a conventional polyamide fabric dyeing process, which involves temperatures in excess of the melting point of the fusible yarn. Dyeing can be achieved using a continuous pad/steam process, or by a vat (exhaust dyeing) process. The vat dyeing process is preferred when the fabric is to be dyed with dark colours such as red, black or blue, whereas the continuous dyeing process is preferred for whites, creams and pastel colours.
A suitable continuous pad-steam dyeing process can be carried out with a conventional dyeing machine such as a MAGEBA™ Pad Steamer range produced by MAGEBA Textile machines GmbH & Co.
In both methods the process is preferably controlled so that the temperature does not fall below a predetermined temperature which is in excess of the melting point of the first fusible yarn. The dyeing temperature is typically 100° C. or more.
Preferably the conventional device is modified by the addition of a temperature sensing means which monitors the temperature within the dyeing machine. If the temperature falls below a predetermined level e.g. 90° C. (in excess of the melting point of the fusible Grilon™ yarn, an indicator such as a flashing light or buzzer is activated to warn an operator so that appropriate action can be taken to increase the temperature, as required.
Un-dyed tubular fabric 32 of the invention is fed, at a rate of approximately 15 meters per minute, into the dye padding unit of the dyeing machine, which utilises a conventional polyamide dye (e.g. available from Hoechst, Ciba-Geigy, Clariant, Dye Star and Sandoz). The fabric then passes into the atmospheric steamer unit where the fusible Grilon™ yarn melts. The fabric is then passed into excess dye wash off baths, size tanks and into drying cylinders (e.g. a drying unit sold by Mageba).
Throughout the process the fabric is maintained under a fixed tension by means of appropriately positioned automatic dancer arms.
The fabric residence time in the steamer unit is 2-3 minutes, preferably 2.75 minutes at a temperature of from 100-105° C. The tubular fabric 32 is dried uniformly whilst controlling the tension of the fabric so that the dimensional stability of the fabric is optimised.
In the vat dyeing process a known Pegg Pulsator or known exhaust dyeing machine can be used. This machine comprises a stainless steel tank in which a dyeing solution can be heated and stirred.
Fabric to be dyed is assembled into 50 meter hanks tied loosely with string bands. The hanks are put into a dyeing solution and heated until the solution boils (which melts the Grilon™ K-85 yarn). Boiling is preferably continued for at least approximately 45 minutes. The dyed fabric hanks are then removed from the tank, rinsed and dried, before being cooled.
A temperature control is used to warn the operator if the temperature falls below 90° C. during the boiling step.
Conveniently, the tubular fabric 32 can be further treated with a normal dyed fabric finishing step such as acid treatment (using citric acid) to reduce the pH of the finished tubular fabric 32 to less than 4 and thereby protect the tubular fabric 32 from phenolic yellowing which can arise if the tubular fabric 32 is exposed to nitrogen oxide fumes.
Advantageously, in those embodiments including a second fusible yarn, the second fusible yarn has a melting point of 110° C. or greater, preferably a melting point of between approximately 110° C. and 140° C., more preferably a melting point of at least approximately 135° C. and even more preferably a melting point of at least approximately 140° C., and can be cooled to produce a material having a higher melting point than the first temperature, and preferably more than 110° C. The most preferred second fusible yarn has a melting point of approximately 140° C.
Accordingly, in such embodiments, the second fusible yarn will not melt under conditions capable of melting the first fusible yarn, such as those used during conventional dyeing processes. Accordingly, a dyed tubular fabric 32 forming a barrier to penetration can be formed with the pair of attachment flaps 34 in which the second fusible yarn has not been melted—that tubular fabric 32 may then be attached to a second fabric by means of the attachment flap 34 by melting the second fusible yarn using the method of the invention.
The preferred fusible polyamide for use as a second fusible yarn is Grilon™ K-140, or a yarn which has substantially the same properties as Grilon™ K-140, which has a melting point of approximately 140° C. and a preferred yarn count dtex of 75.
The term “underwire” is intended to include any substantially rigid structural member and it need not be made from a metal. For example, a structural member formed from a substantially rigid plastic or from bone may be preferred in certain garments incorporating the tubular fabric 32 of the invention. Such structural members are intended to fall within the scope of the term “underwire” as used herein. The terms “bra wire” and “underwire” are used interchangeably herein and will be understood by those skilled in the art to be synonymous.
By “barrier to penetration by an underwire” we include the meaning that: (i) an underwire is unable to pierce the surface of the tubular fabric 32; and/or (ii) an underwire is unable to pierce the surface of the tubular fabric 32 and pass into the fabric; and/or (iii) an underwire is unable to pierce the surface of the tubular fabric 32 and pass through the tubular fabric 32. Thus, the barrier to penetration will reduce the likelihood of the passage of an underwire into, and/or through, the tubular fabric 32.
A person skilled in the art would be aware of methods capable of measuring the degree of penetration by an underwire through a fabric; for example, it may be measured by determining the force required to enable an object (such as an underwire, a prong or a needle) to penetrate through a fabric (i.e. the penetration force). Such a test may be performed using a tensile tester, such as those produced by Houndsfield or Instron, which may be used to stretch the fabric to be tested to a specified modulus and determine the load (preferably in kg) required to pierce the fabric with an underwire or a needle of equivalent size. For example, the degree of penetration may be determined using a L+M Sewability Tester with a 90's medium ball needle to represent the underwire, as described in GB 2,309,038 and GB 2,366,574.
It will be understood that the force required to penetrate a fabric using such a method can be assigned a numerical value, which allows the degree of penetration exhibited by two or more fabrics to be compared.
Thus, by “barrier to penetration by an underwire” we also include the meaning that a first fabric is capable of reducing the likelihood of the passage of an underwire into, or through the fabric when the underwire is applied using a force which is capable of penetrating a second fabric that does not form a barrier to penetration by an underwire due to the lack of a fusible yarn.
A fabric that does not form a barrier to penetration by an underwire due to the lack of a fusible yarn will typically resist a penetration force of about 5 kgf to 10 kgf, or less, using the test method described in the accompanying Examples. Advantageously, the fabric of the invention will resist a greater penetration force than a fabric that does not form a barrier to penetration by an underwire due to the lack of a fusible yarn—preferably, the fabric of the invention will resist a penetration force of 11 kgf or more; preferably, 11 kgf to 18 kgf or 18 kgf to 31 kgf; even more preferably 18 kgf or more; preferably 19 kgf, 20 kgf, 21 kgf, 22 kgf, 23 kgf, 24 kgf, 25 kgf, 26 kgf, 27 kgf, 28 kgf, 29 kgf, 30 kgf, 31 kgf or more.
The penetration force through the tubular fabric 32 of the invention may be measured according to the methods described in UK patent publication numbers 2,309,038 and 2,366,574.
Thus, the fabric of the invention is materially more resistant to penetration by an underwire than a fabric that does not form a barrier to penetration by an underwire due to the lack of a fusible yarn. For example, the fabric of the invention is preferably more than approximately two- or three- or four- or five- or six-times or more resistant to penetration by an underwire than a fabric that does not form a barrier to penetration by an underwire due to the lack of a fusible yarn.
It is preferred that the first and/or second fusible yarn, where present, and the support yarn are composed of the same material, advantageously a polyamide, so that they can be adhered to one another easily and so that their respective dyeing properties will be the same. A uniformity of dyeing throughout the fabric of the invention is an important commercial and aesthetic consideration.
The listing or discussion of a prior-published document in this specification should not necessarily be taken as an acknowledgement that the document is part of the state of the art or is common general knowledge.

Claims

1. A method of making a fabric arrangement, the fabric arrangement comprising a fabric element attached to a second fabric, the fabric element comprising a tubular fabric and a pair of attachment flaps, the tubular fabric for receiving an underwire, each attachment flap including an attachment surface for attachment to a second fabric, the method comprising the steps of arranging the pair of attachment flaps to project from the tubular fabric in opposite directions so as to define opposingly projecting attachment flaps, arranging the tubular fabric to partially or fully overlap the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps and attaching the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps to the second fabric.

2. A method according to claim 1 further including the steps of providing a support yarn and a first fusible yarn, and forming the yarns into a tubular fabric and having the first fusible yarn arranged so that, on subsequent melting and cooling of the first fusible yarn, the tubular fabric forms a barrier to penetration by an underwire.

3. (canceled)

4. A method according to claim 1 wherein the cross-section of the tubular fabric has a closed shape.

5. (canceled)

6. A method according to claim 1 wherein the cross-section of the tubular fabric has an open shape.

7. (canceled)

8. A method according to claim 1 wherein the cross-section of the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps has a Ω-shape.

9. A method according to claim 1 further including the steps of initially providing an open or flat fabric, and subsequently folding the open or flat fabric into the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps by passing the open or flat fabric through a guide that is shaped to fold the open or flat fabric into the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps.

10-11. (canceled)

12. A method according to claim 1 further including the step of:

forming the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps by forming a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first, second and third fabric tapes, wherein the first and second fabric tapes are joined to form the tubular fabric, and the third tape is joined to one of the first and second fabric tapes to form the pair of attachment flaps; or

forming the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps by forming a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first and second fabric tapes, wherein the first and second tapes are joined to form the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps; or

initially forming the tubular fabric, and subsequently joining a single fabric piece or a plurality of fabric pieces to the tubular fabric to form the pair of attachment flaps.

13-20. (canceled)

21. A method according to claim 1 further including the step of locating an underwire within a length of the tubular fabric.

22-24. (canceled)

25. A method according to claim 1 wherein the second fabric is a fabric of a garment.

26-28. (canceled)

29. A method of making a garment, the method of making a garment including the method of making a fabric arrangement according to claim 1, wherein the second fabric is or forms part of the garment.

30. A fabric arrangement comprising a fabric element attached to a second fabric, the fabric element comprising a tubular fabric and a pair of attachment flaps, the tubular fabric for receiving an underwire, each attachment flap including an attachment surface for attachment to a second fabric, wherein the pair of attachment flaps are arranged to project from the tubular fabric in opposite directions so as to define opposingly projecting attachment flaps, the tubular fabric is arranged to partially or fully overlap the attachment surfaces of the opposingly projecting attachment flaps, and the attachment surfaces of the attachment flaps are attached to the second fabric.

31. A fabric arrangement according to claim 30 wherein the tubular fabric includes a support yarn and a first fusible yarn, wherein the first fusible yarn is arranged in the tubular fabric so that, on subsequent melting and cooling of the first fusible yarn, the tubular fabric forms a barrier to penetration by an underwire.

32. (canceled)

33. A fabric arrangement according to claim 30 wherein the cross-section of the tubular fabric has a closed shape or an open shape.

34. (canceled)

35. A fabric arrangement according to claim 30 wherein the cross-section of the tubular fabric has an open shape.

36. A fabric arrangement according to claim 30 wherein the cross-section of the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps has a Ω-shape.

37. (canceled)

38. A fabric arrangement according to claim 30 wherein:

the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps are formed of a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first, second and third fabric tapes, wherein the first and second fabric tapes are joined to form the tubular fabric, and the third tape is joined to one of the first and second fabric tapes to form the pair of attachment flaps; or

the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps are formed of a plurality of overlaying fabric tapes, the plurality of overlaying fabric tapes including first and second fabric tapes, wherein the first and second fabric tapes are joined to form the tubular fabric and pair of attachment flaps.

39. (canceled)

40. A fabric arrangement according to claim 30 wherein the pair of attachment flaps are formed of a single fabric piece or a plurality of fabric pieces joined to the tubular fabric.

41-44. (canceled)

45. A fabric arrangement according to claim 30 including an underwire located within a length of the tubular fabric.

46. (canceled)

47. A fabric arrangement according to claim 30 wherein the second fabric is a fabric of a garment.

48-50. (canceled)

51. A garment comprising a fabric arrangement according to claim 30, wherein the second fabric is or forms part of the garment.

52-55. (canceled)