US20140216492A1 - Method for assessing hair conditions and diagnostic system for prescription of customized cosmetic treatment and/or product - Google Patents

Method for assessing hair conditions and diagnostic system for prescription of customized cosmetic treatment and/or product Download PDF

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US20140216492A1
US20140216492A1 US14/345,872 US201214345872A US2014216492A1 US 20140216492 A1 US20140216492 A1 US 20140216492A1 US 201214345872 A US201214345872 A US 201214345872A US 2014216492 A1 US2014216492 A1 US 2014216492A1
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Prior art keywords
hair
product
classification
damages
user
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Inventor
Marcello Magri Amaral
Adriana De Andrade Fregonesi
Carla Maria Sanches Scanavez De Paula
Luciana De Miranda Chaves Vasquez Pinto
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Natura Cosmeticos SA
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Natura Cosmeticos SA
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Publication of US20140216492A1 publication Critical patent/US20140216492A1/en
Assigned to NATURA COSMETICOS S.A. reassignment NATURA COSMETICOS S.A. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: MAGRI AMARAL, Marcello, DE MIRANDA CHAVES VASQUEZ PINTO, LUCIANA, MARIA SANCHES SCANAVEZ DE PAULA, Carla, DE ANDRADE FREGONESI, Adriana
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D44/00—Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G16—INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATION TECHNOLOGY [ICT] SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR SPECIFIC APPLICATION FIELDS
    • G16H—HEALTHCARE INFORMATICS, i.e. INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATION TECHNOLOGY [ICT] SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE HANDLING OR PROCESSING OF MEDICAL OR HEALTHCARE DATA
    • G16H50/00—ICT specially adapted for medical diagnosis, medical simulation or medical data mining; ICT specially adapted for detecting, monitoring or modelling epidemics or pandemics
    • G16H50/20—ICT specially adapted for medical diagnosis, medical simulation or medical data mining; ICT specially adapted for detecting, monitoring or modelling epidemics or pandemics for computer-aided diagnosis, e.g. based on medical expert systems
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G16—INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATION TECHNOLOGY [ICT] SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR SPECIFIC APPLICATION FIELDS
    • G16H—HEALTHCARE INFORMATICS, i.e. INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATION TECHNOLOGY [ICT] SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE HANDLING OR PROCESSING OF MEDICAL OR HEALTHCARE DATA
    • G16H10/00—ICT specially adapted for the handling or processing of patient-related medical or healthcare data
    • G16H10/40—ICT specially adapted for the handling or processing of patient-related medical or healthcare data for data related to laboratory analysis, e.g. patient specimen analysis
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D44/00—Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
    • A45D2044/007—Devices for determining the condition of hair or skin or for selecting the appropriate cosmetic or hair treatment
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B5/00—Measuring for diagnostic purposes; Identification of persons
    • A61B5/44—Detecting, measuring or recording for evaluating the integumentary system, e.g. skin, hair or nails
    • A61B5/448—Hair evaluation, e.g. for hair disorder diagnosis

Definitions

  • the present invention refers to a method for assessing hair conditions and a diagnostic system according to parameters of tactile perception of hair, particularly conceived to prescribe a customized cosmetic treatment with specific products for the hair of users.
  • Hair care is a promising market in the cosmetic industry worldwide, wherein innovation and practicality are strategic targets when users make their choice in view of the wide range of products that are constantly launched in this segment.
  • the decision to buy a product for a certain type of hair is usually associated with several related factors, mainly with the user's type of hair and the cosmetic treatment to be applied.
  • Treatments for daily hair care generally consist of merely washing the hair using shampoo and conditioner; hydrating it; using a blow drier, flat iron or curling iron and/or cauterizing the hair.
  • treatments made in a longer period of time including chemical processes such as hair highlights, streaking, dyeing, perm, hair relaxing, straightening, bleaching and/or blond dyeing.
  • the hair has four main components: cuticle, cortex, medulla and the complex of the cell membrane joining the adjacent cuticle cells and cortical cells.
  • Cuticle made of an amorphous and protein material, is the outermost part of the strand, being responsible for protecting cortical cells. Cuticle also regulates the intake and exit of water from the fiber, which allows keeping the physical properties of the fiber.
  • Cortex making up the majority of the hair fiber, is formed by macrofibrils of keratin aligned in the direction of the strand.
  • the medulla is located inside the cortex. This component may be present or missing along the length of the strand. Randomly distributed in the cortex are the melanin granules, whose type, size and quantity determine the hair color. Changes to the strands of hair may happen in cuticles and in the cortex as well, and, depending on the applied treatment, damages can be different and occur through different processes.
  • the purchase of a cosmetic product must consider both the intrinsic and extrinsic factors of the hair, increasing the chances of having the strands respond favorably to the recommended treatment.
  • cosmetic counseling is currently a service that has been regularly offered by aesthetic clinics, gyms, beauty parlors, Internet, among other places.
  • This counseling service is usually performed based on visual analyses or by means of electronic procedures/specialized devices.
  • patent US 2007/0012320 describes a method and system for diagnosing the degree of severity of hair loss based on answers to a set of questions presented to the consumer. Depending on the result from the analysis of the answers, a second questionnaire is presented in order to recommend a more specific cosmetic product or treatment.
  • this document refers to a cosmetic counseling service, the method described was developed only to recommend cosmetic products for the treatment of hair loss.
  • Patent document US 2009/0076639 also describes a method for cosmetic counseling and a system for diagnosing a cosmetic product for treating the hair conditions.
  • this method comprises measuring the condition of the scalp and hair of users by using a diagnosis device for such purpose, with a subsequent analysis of the collected data and the handling of the customized formulation, in order to provide the user with a product suitable for the cosmetic treatment.
  • the diagnosis of the customized product is directly related to the use of an appropriate device to reproduce the picture of the user's scalp, therefore, requiring that the user be physically present in the establishment where such device is available.
  • patent document US 2004/0202686 which describes a method for cosmetic advice and a system for producing a customized product for hair care. Such method comprises the prescription of a customized cosmetic, combining a base product and a mixture of biopharmaceuticals with vegetable extracts, and the use of the resulting combination to prepare a product for hair treatment.
  • Patent document US 2004/0236592 discloses a method to obtain information about the hair conditions of a user by means of an interview or questionnaire, in order to analyze the data (related to the frequency profile and applications of chemical processes, hair care habits and parameters of hair oiliness) and to prepare a hair treatment program comprising (i) the recommendation of a product, (ii) one hair care service and (iii) one hair care activity.
  • Patent document US 2006/0265244 describes a method and system for classifying the hair type and nomenclature. Such method comprises steps which include the fulfillment of a questionnaire that classifies the hair according to at least four parameters, the use of a database in order to determine the hair type among the sixteen types registered, the identification of at least one product recommendable for treating the hair, as well as one product that should be avoided by the user.
  • the four parameters used to classify the hair type of the user include: (1) oiliness or dryness, (2) damages or not, (3) fine or large diameter, and (4) straight or wavy hair.
  • the sixteen hair types registered in the database serve as basis for comparison to recommend a customized product for the user.
  • the ideal procedure is to lead users, by means of questions prepared according to a common and popular vocabulary, to inform the conditions of tactile perception of the hair which, in turn, reflect the structural conditions of strands and increase the chances of obtaining a diagnosis more suitable to their need.
  • the first goal of this invention is to supply a method for assessing the hair conditions, particularly conceived to prescribe a customized treatment and/or product, mainly based on parameters of tactile perception of hair defined by softness, combing and coarseness.
  • the second goal of this invention is to supply a system for diagnosing the hair conditions, comprising a matrix for classification of hair damages and a database, in order to prescribe a customized cosmetic treatment and/or product.
  • the first goal of this invention is achieved by means of a method for assessing the hair conditions conceived to prescribe a customized treatment and/or product, comprising the following steps:
  • step B Inserting the information obtained in step A in a matrix for classification of hair damages, in order to obtain at least one classification about the hair condition of the user;
  • step B Associating the classification about the hair condition of the user obtained in step B with the characteristics of at least one cosmetic product stored in a database that stores registrations of at least one cosmetic product, in order to obtain at least one result about the customized cosmetic treatment and/or product;
  • step D Prescribing to the user at least one customized cosmetic treatment and/or product according to the result obtained in step C.
  • the second goal of this invention is achieved by means of a system for diagnosing the hair conditions which comprises a matrix for classification of hair damages and a database, wherein the matrix for classification contains information obtained from questionnaires presented to users and is stored in a database associated with registrations of one or more cosmetic products, so that the system is configured to relate the information from the matrix for classification of damages to one or more cosmetic products registered in its database, in view of parameters of tactile perception of hair combined with at least three attributes defined by softness, combing and coarseness, in order to prescribe to the user one or more customized cosmetic treatments and/or products.
  • FIG. 1 correlates to a flow chart with the steps of the method for assessing the hair conditions
  • FIG. 2 correlates to an embodiment of the matrix for classification of damages, used in the pilot phase
  • FIG. 3 correlates to an embodiment of the matrix for classification of damages, reformulated in the validation phase.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates a flow chart representing the method covered by this invention, according to a preferred embodiment, comprising the following steps:
  • Such method for assessing the hair conditions starts with step 1—collection of personal information about the hair, consolidated by means of step 1.1—presentation of the questionnaire.
  • This questionnaire contemplates questions preferably related to the shape, type, profile of day care and the application of chemical processes to the strands, attributes of tactile perception and any other information related to the hair conditions.
  • the options on the hair shape are described in the questionnaire in the form of alternatives, allowing the user to choose from, but not exclusively, straight (completely straight), frizzy (wavy, curly) or kinky (afro, coiled).
  • Other alternatives about hair shape can be added to the questionnaire, so that this requirement serves as a reference to indicate the shapes of the user's hair.
  • the hair shape is defined by a board with photographic scale, which is based on a system largely known in the art, attached to the questionnaire, which identifies the different hair shapes according to their curvature and serves to help the understanding of users when they must choose their hair shape.
  • questions about the user's hair type are described in the questionnaire in the form of alternatives, allowing users to chose preferentially from oily, normal, combination (dry ends and oily scalp) or dry.
  • the questionnaire further contemplates questions about the profile of chemical processes applied to the user's hair which, in turn, are described in the form of alternatives so that the users indicate the chemical processes that have already been applied to the structure of their hair strands.
  • the questionnaire proposed by this invention considers as options to be indicated the chemical processes with hair highlights, streaking, dyeing, perm, hair relaxing, straightening, bleaching and/or blond dyeing, among others.
  • Table 1 shows the type of damage caused both by daily care and by the application of chemical processes:
  • Table 1 shows the type of damage caused both by daily care and by the application of chemical processes: Daily care: washing, blow drying, comb- ing, Brazilian hair External agents: Perm, chemical relaxing, Bleaching, bleaching + Permanent Hair Treatment straightening sun, chlorine Japanese hair straightening dyeing (blond) Dyes Process Mechanical Power, Oxidation and Reduction: chemical Oxidation: H2O2 with chemical Oxidation temperature, photo-oxidation process at high accelerator, reaction at pH 9-11 surfactants pH 9-11 K-S-S-K + Fission S-S: RS_SR -> R-SH -> K-S-S-R + RSO-SR -> RSO2-SR -> K-SH -> K-S-S-R + [RSO2-SOR ] -> RSO2-SO2R -> R-SH -> R-S-S-R + 2R-SO3H K-SH Damages They are preferably They are preferably Cuticle and e cortical dam- De
  • the questionnaire preferably has a question about how often the chemical processes are applied to the hair, and the alternatives are chosen from (i) at least once a month, (ii) every 2-4 months, (iii) every 4-6 months, or more than 6 months.
  • the options are not limited by the alternatives mentioned, which only serve as referential ranges to exemplify a preferred embodiment of this invention.
  • initial steps 1 and 1.1 for obtaining personal information about the users' hair illustrated in FIG. 1 at least one question about tactile perception is included in the questionnaire presented in the method of this invention, this parameter being the most relevant and innovative in comparison to the prior arts that propose the presentation of a questionnaire.
  • said parameter is combined with at least three attributes defined by softness (high, normal or low), combing (easy, moderate or hard) and coarseness (high or low).
  • the questionnaire presented in the method of this invention should contain at least one question about the tactile perception of hair, with an, essay answer or a multiple-choice answer by the user, regardless of the limited number of questions about the hair conditions in the questionnaire.
  • the questionnaire is available to users in printed format, via website in the Internet, sent by e-mail or mail in response to a private appointment, or even delivered by a product consultant.
  • the answers to the questionnaire, with personal information about the hair conditions, are preferably sent by the user in printed format, via website in the Internet, by e-mail, SMS, mail or delivered to a product consultant.
  • the present method for assessing hair conditions has a second step 2 about feeding the matrix for classification of damages with the users' personal information that was obtained from the presented questionnaire.
  • the matrix for classification conceived for this invention was developed using factors intrinsic and extrinsic to the structure of the hair strands. Its system was configured to process the personal information about the users' hair, associating it with the characteristics of at least one cosmetic treatment and/or product registered in the database in which it is stored, according to steps 3 and 3.1 illustrated in FIG. 1 . The result obtained in steps 3 and 3.1 also allows prescribing at least one product kit and/or cosmetic treatment related to the kit.
  • the matrix for classification was built with parameters of shape (or curvature), type, profile of daily care and chemical processes applied to the hair, as well as tactile perception.
  • the parameter of hair shape was based on the photographic scale system widely known in the art which, in turn, identifies eight different types of hair curvature, numbered from I to VIII.
  • types I and II were considered straight, III and IV were considered frizzy, and V or higher were considered kinky.
  • both the profile of daily care and the profile of chemical processes applied to the hair were associated with the respective mechanism of damage caused to the hair, wherein four groups were found.
  • Group one comprises only daily care, which includes washing with shampoo, use of conditioner, blow drier, hydration and flat iron, being directly related to mechanical, thermal and surfactant damages.
  • Group two comprises daily care (described in group one), in addition to dyeing, highlights or streaking (except bleaching or blond dyeing in the whole hair), being characterized by the presence of oxidative damages.
  • Group three comprises daily care (described in group one), in addition to perm, relaxing or straightening, being characterized by the presence of reductive damages.
  • Group four comprises daily care (described in group one), in addition to bleaching, blond dyeing or the combination of treatments from groups two and three.
  • phase I pilot step
  • phase II validation step
  • the questionnaire used in the tests contemplated questions about shape (board with photographic scale attached), the profile of daily care and application of chemical processes to the hair, and tactile perception of the hair. Besides these parameters, one question about the hair type was included in the questionnaire, although the result of said parameter did impact the damages classification by the matrix.
  • the answers given by the volunteers were compared to the answers given by the hairdressers who, in turn, were trained with 90 hair streaks built (according to Table 3) on each level of damages of the attributes relating to tactile perception (softness, combing, coarseness and extension) for each hair shape (straight, frizzy and kinky).
  • the answers from the 93 volunteers were assessed by four hairdressers, and it was used the multivariate technique of classification tree to list the qualitative answers given by the hairdressers and volunteers.
  • the dependent variable in the model was the crossing of damages and hair shape for the hairdressers' assessment.
  • the explanatory (qualitative) variables considered were: shape, type, profile of daily care and application of chemical processes to the hair, as well as attributes of tactile perception (softness, combing, coarseness and extension).
  • Table 4 compares the results from the hairdressers' classifications to the results estimated with the classification tree, originated from the answers in the volunteers' questionnaires.
  • the most important variables in hair classification were the hair shape, the profile of daily care and the application of chemical processes to the hair, as well as the attribute of tactile perception of combing.
  • the hair type and the attribute of tactile perception of extension were less important in the classification, whereas the attributes of tactile perception of coarseness and softness did not appear in the classification tree for this pilot step.
  • Phase II (validation step) of tests on assertiveness of the matrix for damage classification started, then, with the performance of qualitative research with a a semi-structured guideline methodology, conducting group discussions, in a mirror room.
  • the volunteers were divided into four groups classified as AB1, B2C, Straight/Wavy and Kinky/Frizzy. Additionally, to be classified as a volunteer of group Kinky/Frizzy, the volunteer had to apply one or more finishers (end mender, ointment, de-frizzing products, leave-in creams, thermal active repair cream, gel, mousse, hairspray, among others) in the hair at least once every fifteen days.
  • finishers end mender, ointment, de-frizzing products, leave-in creams, thermal active repair cream, gel, mousse, hairspray, among others
  • the questionnaire was adapted according to the vocabulary identified by the volunteers who answered the qualitative research.
  • the classification matrix was reformulated (as shown by the embodiment in FIG. 3 ) for the implementation of the validation step, in which it was selected 95 volunteers who, together with those who participated in the pilot step, added up to 564 answers assessed by three hairdressers.
  • the classification pattern with all hairdressers showed 58.7% of correct guesses and the percentage of correct guesses for hairdressers 1, 2 and 3 was 59.6%, 59.6%, 62.2% respectively. Although the answers of all hairdressers have been used in the final pattern, it is important to clarify that the results from a hairdresser's assessment of the pilot stage were not considered once she has not performed assessment of the sample of this validation step.
  • Table 14 compares the results from the hairdressers' classifications to the results estimated with the classification tree arising from the volunteers' answers. All the gaps indicate that there was no observation for crossing.
  • the most important variables in the hair classification were the hair shape and the treatment (profile of daily care and application of chemical processes to the hair).
  • the attribute of softness was important in the classification of the groups mainly for straight hair.
  • the attributes of coarseness and combing helped at the classification for kinky hair.
  • the attributes of type and combing helped with frizzy hair.
  • a classification according to damages was made, without separating the volunteers' hair according to type, in order to know what results would be observed in the classification matrix.
  • the classification matrix was considered valid for the classification of hair for damages, according to the parameters of hair shape, profile of daily care and application of chemical processes, as well as the attributes of tactile perception of softness, combing and coarseness.
  • the matrix for classification of hair damages developed to be used as a diagnostic tool, is also capable of separating different agents that cause damages and of eliminating possible market beliefs.
  • the insertion of the questionnaire answers in the classification matrix leads to a position which establishes the hair damage and allows the performance of final step 4 of this method, which comprises the prescription of cosmetic treatment and/or product, or also a product kit and/or cosmetic treatment related to the kit.
  • the products recommended by the classification matrix consider the variations of each dimension present in the database.
  • the method under this invention is different from those others described in the state of the art documents, once it classifies the damages according to the attributes of tactile perception (softness, combing and coarseness), thus revealing a new way of assessing the hair conditions and meeting, more assertively, the users' needs.
  • the tests performed for the conception of this invention attest the importance of adjusting the vocabulary of the questionnaires presented in cosmetic counseling methods with the language used by users, in order to obtain correct personal information and ensure the prescription of a more assertive product and/or treatment.
  • One of the advantages of this invention is that the user is the agent who guides the method in question, and, based on her own analysis of the attributes of tactile perception (which can be made at the comfort of her home), a position will be outlined in the matrix for damage classification, so that a cosmetic treatment and/or product can be recommended.
  • the matrix for damage classification used as diagnostic tool in the present invention was developed regardless of any product line; being, therefore, suitable for the prescription of any capillary cosmetic in the database in which it is stored.
  • compositions of the cosmetic products and/or treatments contained in the product database are essentially comprised by an active ingredient and a physiologically appropriate vehicle.
  • the usual cosmetic adjuvant and active ingredients present in the compositions in question can be of animal, vegetal, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the physiologically acceptable vehicle it consists of a usual cosmetic base according to the application intended for the composition to be prepared.
  • This vehicle is comprised by usual adjuvant and physiologically inert compounds.
  • One of the manners to implement the method covered by this invention can be through a computerized system accessible, for instance, by means of a website on the Internet, or even by means of a computer in which the system for diagnosing the hair conditions of the present invention runs.
  • Such system comprises at least one matrix for classification of hair damages and a database; the matrix for classification of damages comprises information obtained from questionnaires presented to users and is stored in a database which, in turn, comprises registrations of at least one cosmetic product; the system is configured to relate the information from the classification matrix to at least one cosmetic product registered in the database, based on parameters of tactile perception of hair combined with at least three attributes defined by softness, combing and coarseness, in order to recommend to the user at least one customized cosmetic treatment and/or product, or also a product kit and/or cosmetic treatment related to the kit.

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FR1158290A FR2980270A1 (fr) 2011-09-19 2011-09-19 Procede pour determiner l'etat des cheveux et systeme de diagnostic pour la prescription d'un traitement et/ou produit cosmetique personnalise
FR1158290 2011-09-19
PCT/BR2012/000357 WO2013040668A2 (en) 2011-09-19 2012-09-19 Method for assessing hair conditions and diagnostic system for prescription of customized cosmetic treatment and/or product

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US11806419B2 (en) 2019-04-16 2023-11-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Aptamers for odor control applications
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US12039732B2 (en) 2021-04-14 2024-07-16 The Procter & Gamble Company Digital imaging and learning systems and methods for analyzing pixel data of a scalp region of a users scalp to generate one or more user-specific scalp classifications

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BR112014006601A2 (pt) 2017-03-28

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