US1999302A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

F. RICKS SEWING MACHINE Ami]! 33(0), 1935.

Filed Nov. 10, 1932 5 Sheets-Sheet l F. RICKS SEWING MACHINE April 36), 3935.

Filed Nov. 10, 1952 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Aprill 3% H930 RHCKS 11 99936132 SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 10, 1952 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Apr. 30, 1935 UNITED- stra g oFF'icE Application November 10, 1932, Serial No. 642,051 In GreatBritain December 10,1931

6Claiims;

This invention relates. to sewing. machines and is. particularly, but by no means exclusively; concerned: with boot or. shoe inseam. sewing ma chines for use in sewing, together the welt, up-

, per and insole of a-weltshoe or the upper and sole of a-.tur-nshoe.

An example of this classof. machine is the well-known. Goodyear welt and turn shoe' sewing machine which is=disclosed in U. S; Patent toEppler, No. 1,108,550:dated-August125; 1914 and which may be. provided with: continuous work feedmechanism such as: issdisolosediin-the U. S. Patent. to Topham No. 1,289,314, dated-De cember 31, 1918.

Machines of thisclass have a curved hookneedle, a looper, a-thread finger and: take-up which cooperate 1 informing a. chain stitch seam; During the formation: of each stitch the thread finger isiswung rearwardly of the machine and draws a bight of: the'thread which extends between the workand'ztherlooper, the needle then having penetrated the-work and; beingin posi tion to have the thread. laid in itsrhook. bythe 1ooper.- After the. looperhas laid the. thread inthe-hook. of. the needle and. as the needlemoves back. to draw a loop ofv thread. through. the work, the thread: fingerswingsforwardly and gives up' thread to one side of the: needle while the thread. at the other side of. the needle is drawn through the looper.

In machines as heretofore constructed a dif-- ficulty has been sometimes experienced. in maxnipulating. theshoe while: it is being operated upon so" as. to present successive portions of the parts to be sewn. together properly to-the sew-- ing devices. Thisxdifiicultyv has been due to the fact that thethread finger as it swings.- back may sometimes hit against the upstanding: channeLlip or lips of. the insole and tend to push' the shoe downwardly away from the sewing deevices. This difiicultyis found to be greater when sewingf round the-toe of a-shoe than'when sewing along the side because the channel lip or lips and the upper materials are more com-- pact than at the sides and offer greater. resistintermittently but in such machines: can be overcome-to a large extent, if. not indeed wholly;- by careful. manipulation of the shoe. In machines in which. the shoe is fed intermittently the turning at the toe or manipulating of theshoe is-intendedto be done-by the operator while the shoe is being fed. and. therefore while the needle-isoutof thework and it will be apparent that the movement of theshoe during itsfeed indicates-to the operator the time ineachcycle during whichthe shoe can best be manipulated. When, however, the shoe isbeing fed continuously. orsubstantially so, as in a machine-fitted with continuous feed-mechanism, there isnoth ing-,to indicate to theoperatorwhen theneedle is-outof the work and careful-.manipulationofa theshoe to:overcorne the difiiculty above referred to is rendered more difiicult.

One. of the several objects ofthe present invention is to overcome the aforementioned difficulty and this object may be achieved in one preferred way, according to the presentinven tion, which willbe hereinafter described with reference to the accompanying drawings In the drawings Fig. 1 illustrates, in side ele vation, a portion of a welt shoe sewing machine embodying the present invention, which sewingmachine-is of the general construction described inthe patents abovereferred to,- andmore par ticularly in. the patent to-Topham; Fig. 2' is a view in side elevation on a somewhat larger scale than Fig. 1 ofpart of awelt-shoe sewingmachine embodying thepresent invention, which machine. is of the. general construction described in thepatents above referred topand more particularly. in the patent toEppler; Fig. 3is a-view in front elevationpartly in section of a portion of the mechanism illustrated in Fig; 2'; Figs; 1- to 7= inclusive illustrate. diagrammatically an arrangement of. channel guide, back rest,. needle; looper, and thread finger with the parts in some of. the different relative positions they occupy during the formation of a stitch in the machines shown inFigs. 1,2, and 3; Fig. 8 shows in plan the toe end. of a welt shoe and the relative'position of the parts illustrated in Figs. 4 to 7- at one point in the formation of a stitch, and Fig; 9 illustrateson an enlarged scale a portion. of the arrangement for supporting and actuating the looper.

In the drawings l is the. channel guide, 2 the backrest, 3 the needle, 3 the looper, and 5 the thread finger of the said welt sewing machine;

In Figure a the parts are shown inthe relative positions they occupy when the machine comeszto restIand a shoe whichihas. been sewn can'ibeirei-- moved and a fresh shoe presented to the machine.

In Figure 5 the thread finger 5 has swung back to take a bight of the thread which extends between the looper 4 and the work and the needle has passed through the work.

In Figure 6 the needle and thread finger are in the same positions as in Figure 5 but the looper 5 has moved down and is part way round the point of the needle in its looping movement.

In Figure '7 the needle and thread finger are in the same positions as in Figures 5 and 6 and the looper i is shown as having moved round the point of the needle and laid the thread in the barb.

In Figure 8 the needle 3, thread finger 5 and looper 4 are shown in the same relative positions as in Figure 6 and this figure illustrates the movement of the thread finger along the channel lip or lips when sewing round the toe of a shoe as hereinbefore referred to.

It will be observed from Figures l and '7 of the drawings by those familiar with this class of machine as in general use that the thread finger 5 performs its swinging movement well above the channel lips and margin of the upper, that is to say, in an unusually elevated position so that it cannot encounter any part of the shoe properly presented to the machine. To allow the thread finger to take its bight of thread, the looper A has also been caused to move into an unusually elevated position so that the thread finger and looper at the time in the cycle of the machine when .the thread finger takes its bight of thread are substantially in the same relative positions as heretofore. To enable the looper 4, however, to lay the thread in the barb of the customary needle coming in each cycle to the conventional position, it is caused to move towards the needle in the direction of the length of the needle or dip by suitable modification of its operating mechanism as hereinafter described from its raised position so that it can perform its looping operation and is then raised again so that the thread finger can take its bight of thread duringthe next cycle. By causing the thread finger and looper to cooperate in a raised position and causing the looper to have an up and down movement in the direction of the length of the needle to efiect the laying of the thread in the barb of the needle, ample clearance is provided between the work and the thread finger at all times so that the shoe can be freely manipulated when the needle is out of the work without interference by the thread finger.

In the operating mechanism of the looper hereinbefore referred to and illustrated in Figures 1, 2, and 3 of the drawings the looper s is actuated in its movement across and forwardly and rearwardly of the machine to lay the thread in the barb of the needle by mechanism similar to that shown in the Eppler patent, but the looper instead of being fixed in the arm 6 is formed on a bar I which is slidingly mounted in a guideway formed in the lower end of the arm 6, which guideway is substantially parallel when viewed from the front and side of the machine to the arm. a

The bar I has extending laterally from it a stud 8 having a ball end which makes a universal connection with the lower end of an upwardly and forwardly extending link 9, the upper end of which, in a welt shoe sewing machine in which the work is fed continuously as in the machine described in the Topham patent, and shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings, has a universal connection with the cam arm H! which efiects the swinging of the channel guide towards and. from the channel. In a welt sewing machine in which the work is fed step by step and in which the channel guide as it is moved towards the work moves along a line approaching the needle and inclined to the direction of feed, as described in the Eppler patent, the upper end of the link 9 is, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3 of the drawings connected by a universal joint to an arm H. The arm H is pivoted on the head of a shaft l2, corresponding to the shaft referred to as 15 in the Eppler patent, and is secured by a screw I3 to an arm M of a cam lever l5 which is pivoted on a sleeve H5 in which the shaft I2 is rotatably mounted and which sleeve is secured in a bracket ll fixed on the machine head. The lever l5 carries a cam roll l8 which enters a cam groove in a cam ring l9 secured to the cam block 28, in which is the usual cam groove by which the channel guide is moved towards and from the work. The cam groove in the cam ring I9 is similar to the groove which actuates the cam lever referred to as 28 in the Topham patent, which latter cam imparts to the channel guide a movement towards and from the work support. In this way the looper is given a similar up and down movement in a welt sewing machine having a continuous work feed or in a machine having a step by step feed.

In Figure 3 the cam arm which moves the channel guide towards and from the work is shown at 2 l. shaft !2 and at the other end carries a cam roll 22 on a stud 23 fixed in the arm, which stud passes through the cam ring l9. By means of the cam arm referred to as 28 in the Topham patent or the cam arm i5 and link'9, the looper 3 is caused to dip during each cycle of the machine from its unusually elevated position so that it can, by means of the mechanism shown in the Eppler patent lay the thread in the barb of the needle and is then by the cam arm and link raised again to its elevated position. Owing to its connection to the cam arm, the dipping 0f the looper occurs at the same time as the moving ofthe channel guideway from the channel to allow of its return feed movement and the raising of the looper occurs when the channel guide is moved back into engagement with the channel. At the same time that the looper is caused to dip from its elevated position it is also swung to the right (viewing the machine from the front) and moved forwardly by the mechanism shown in the Eppler patent to move it from the left hand side of the needle, where the thread finger takes its bight of thread to the right hand side of the needle and remains in this dipped position while its lower end is moved completely round the needle by the latter mechanism to lay the thread in the barb of the needle. As the needle moves back to draw its loop of thread through the work, the looper is swung to the left by the last mentioned mechanism and at the same time is raised from its dipped position by the link and cam arm to return it to its position at the left of the needle where the thread finger can again take its bight of thread.

The nature and object of the invention having been explained, and mechanism in which it may be embodied having been specifically described what is claimed is:

1. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a thread finger arranged to give up thread as the needle withdraws from the work and to move in an elevated path at a distance from the work and from the The cam arm 2'! is secured at one end to the needle barb while the needle is through the work suflicient to clear the channel lip and upper margin of the shoe, means for actuating the looper to carry the thread into the path of movement of the thread finger and around the needle, and means for moving the looper during each cycle of operations towards the needle in the direction of the length of the needle to cause the thread first to be engaged by the thread finger and thereafter to be engaged in the needle barb.

2. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a thread finger arranged to give up thread as the needle withdraws from the work and to move back and forth across the channel lip and upper margin of the shoe in an elevated path at a distance from the work and from the needle barb While the needle is through the work sufficient to clear the channel lip and upper margin of the shoe, means for actuating the looper to carry the thread into the path of movement of the thread finger and around the needle, and means for moving the looper during each cycle of operations upwardly from the work to cause the thread to be engaged by the thread finger at the proper time in each cycle of operations for the next succeeding stitch.

3. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle and a looper, a back rest, a channel guide, means for actuating the channel guide towards and from the back rest, means for actuating the looper during each cycle of operation of the machine to carry the thread around the needle, and connections between the channel guide actuating means and the looper for moving the looper towards and from the needle in the direction of the length of the needle.

4. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread finger, a

back rest, and a channel guide, means for actuating the channel guide towards and from the back rest, means for actuating the looper during each cycle of operation of the machine to carry the thread into the path of movement of the thread finger and around the needle, and connections between the channel guide actuating means and the looper for moving the looper towards the needle in the direction of the length of the needle after the thread is engaged by the thread finger.

5. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle and a looper, a back rest, a channel guide, means for actuating the channel guide towards and from the back rest, a slide on which the looper is supported, a looper actuating member having a guideway for the slide extending in apprcximately the direction of the length of the needle, means for moving the actuating member to carry the thread extending from the looper around the needle, and connections between the slide and the channel guide actuating means for reciprocating the slide to shift the looper towards and from the position where it may lay the thread within the needle barb.

6. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a thread finger,

a slide on which the looper is supported, a looper actuating member having a guideway for the slide extending in approximately the direction of the length of the needle, means for moving the actuating member to carry the thread extending from the looper into the path of movement of the thread finger and around the needle, and means for actuating the slide to shift the looper from one position in which the thread finger receives the thread into another position in which the thread is laid within the needle barb.

FRED RICKS.

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