US1996317A - Shoe and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

April 2, 1935. A. F. BANCROFT 1,996,317-

.SHOE AND METH OD MAKING THE SAME Filed July 14, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inventor; AZbert Baflcrtj't, Qy EL "my A y April 2, 1935.

A; F. BANCROFT SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING. THE SAME.

. 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed July 14, 1953 Invade); I A Zfie'rt 1 ,5 Query t,

April 2, l935.' A. F. BANCRQFT SHOE METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME 4 Sheets-Sheet Invent-07; Amerffiarzcryt,

Filed July 14, 1933 April 2, 1935. A F. BANCROFT SHOE AND METHOD MAKING THE SAME Filed July 14, 1953 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 A it Patented Apr. 2, 1935 UNITED STATES I 1,996,317 SHOE AND METHOD or MAKING THE SAME Albert F. Bancroft, West Newton, Mass., assignor to Bancroft-Walker Company, Boston, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application July 14, 1933, Serial No. 680,403

11 Claims.

This inventionpertains to the manufacture of footwear, and relates more particularly to an improved boot or shoe and to a process of making the same; In shoes of the kind commonly referred to as McKay type shoes, the upper is lasted right side out upon the last, and its edges are turned over on to the under side of the insole and secured directly to the latter, the insole usually being devoid of any rib or sewing channel. In lasting such a shoe by the methods most commonly employed, alarge number of temporary or permanent fasteners are employed for uniting the marginal portion of the upper to-the insole. Thus, in tack-lasting, the last is provided with an iron bottom, and tacks are driven through the margin of the upper and through the insole and clenched 'over at the under side of the insole. In staple-lasting, such tacks are replaced by staples, and although it may not be intended to have the staples pass all of the way through the insole, they frequentlydo so, and, even when properly inserted, the staples tend to produce appreciable bulges at the upper surface of the insole. In the lasting of cemented or so-called Compo shoes, it has been common to hold the margin of the upper in lasted position, while the cement is setting, by the use of a great number of temporary lasting tacks which are subsequently withdrawn, but these tacks pass completely through the insole, and when withdrawn leave a row of closely spaced holes or discolorations easily observable at the inside of the insole. v

For the above reasons it has been usual to insert a sock lining in a shoe of the above type when the shoe is substantially complete, such sock lining usually consisting of BL piece of thin leather shaped substantially lik the insole, and which is slipped into the shoe and secured to the upper surface of the insole by means of paste, cement, orthe like, thus covering the upper surface of the insole. and concealing the tacks, misplaced staples, bulges, or holes in the insole, such as result from the usual lasting methods.

Since the sock lining is usually of thin, limp material, and since it ordinarily extends from the heel to the toe of the shoe, it is not particularly easy to put it in place in the shoe. The operator usually holds the sock lining by its heelend and pushes its toe-end up into the forward end of the shoe, and then endeavors to smooth it down soas to cause it to adhere to the insole. As this operation must be performed rapidly, under commercial" conditions, it frequently happens that the sock lining is not properly registered with the insole, particularly at the toe. Furthermore, at this part of the shoe it is very dimcult .to exert sufiicient pressure to flatten the sock lining smoothly and cause it to adhere firmly to the insole. This dimculty of properly placing 5 and securing the sock lining often results in such lateral misplacement of the lining toward one side or the other of the shoe as seriously to interfere with the fit of the shoe on the foot, making it more difllcult to fit the shoe in the first instance, and causing discomfort to the wearer during use. Frequently, wrinkles in the sock lining'are not noticed by the operator who inserts it, and are cemented in when the lining is secured in place, and if the sock lining is not securely cemented, the pressure and moisture of the foot during. use soon cause it to wrinkle and loosen, to the great discomfort to the wearer.

The introduction of the sock lining substantially at the completion of the shoe is also disadvantageous, as respects shoes of the finer. grades in particular, since it may produce an appreciable decrease in the actual size of the shoe. The shoe is lasted with care to conform it to a last of accurate shape and dimensions,- and after the last is pulled out, the space within the shoe, particularly at the forepart, is of accurate dimensions and volume. However, if a thick sock lining be afterward introduced, itdecreases the internal volume to a substantial extent, and thus may make a shoe of a given nominal size unduly tight by reason of the space taken up by this sock lining.

Moreover, a one-piece sock lining, adapted to extend from heel to toe is relatively expensive to make, as it must be cut from'material of large dimensions, and thus the use of such a sock lining adds appreciably to the cost of the shoe.

In accordance with the present invention, I last the shoe by a method which does not necessitate the use ofany substantial number of insole penetrating fasteners, at least at "the forepart of the shoe, nor in fact of any fastening means likely to produce a substantial or practi-- cally objectionable number of bulges, holes or other imperfections in the inner surface of the forepart of the insole. In one embodiment of my invention I make-the forepart and rear part of the socklining as two independent members, which substantially decreases the cost of material, and in accordance with a preferred mode of procedure I permanently secure the forepart section of such sock lining to the inner surface of the insole beforeassembling the latter with the upper on the last. I then proceed to last the shoe by a method such as that to which I have just referred,ifdesired employing tacks,

staples, or like fasteners along the shank and at the heel, and after'the shoe has been substantially completed, I insert the rear section of the sock lining, it being noted that the insertion of the rear section of the sock lining into the rear part of the shoe only, is not nearly as dimcult as when a sock is employed which extends from the heel to the toe. Moreover, the insertion of a sock lining section at the rear part does not appreciably affect the fit of the shoe.

.By applying the forepart section or the sock lining to the insole before lasting, it is possible to obtain accuracy of registration of the parts, and it is also easily possible to secure the sock lining section to the insole by the use of adhesive and by the employment of methods and/or appliances which insures a permanent union of the partsand a smooth sock lining free from wrinkles. In lasting the forepart ofthe insole by the use of a method such thatits inner surface is substantially uninjured, it is possible, if desired, to omit the forepart portion of the sock lining and only to use the rear section thereof, such rear section being inserted at the usual time in the shoe-making process after the shoe is substantially complete. Under such 'circum: stances the inner surface of the forepart of the insole may undergo some appropriate finishing operation, if desired, preferably prior to lasting, for example, polishing, coloring, or the like, and since the sock lining at this portion'is then omitted, it is possible to use a somewhat thicker insole than usual without unduly increasing the cost of the shoe. Furthermore, when a two-part sock lining is employed, the toe portion may be made of a contrasting color or of different material from the rear portion, thus providing a new and effective means of enhancing the appearance of the interior of the shoe.

The forward end of the rear section of the sock lining may be given any desired shape, ornamental or otherwise, and if two sock lining sections are used, their meeting ends may be skived so as to overlap without producing a ridge, and the line of union may be given an ornamental contour, if desired, this'being particularly useful when the two sections are of different colors or materials. I

Even if the forepart section of the sock lining be inserted after the shoe is substantially complete, the two-part ,lining represents a distinct advantage over the one-piece lining of usual construction, since it is cheaper to make, easier to handle in inserting its parts into the shoe. and easier to stick in place, while it also has the advantage above noted that its parts may be of difierent colors or materials.

If desired, one or both parts of the sock lining may have secured thereto arch-supporting or other foot-fitting or cushioning elements, and these may be inserted with their respective sections of the sock lining all in a single operation, if desired.

Obviously if the entire shoe be lasted by a method which does not require the use of any substantial number of penetrating fasteners in the lasting operation, the entire sock lining, whether of one or more parts, may be secured to the insole before lasting, as above described.

In the accompanying drawings. in which the- Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a. completed shoe embodying the present invention;

Mg. 2 is a plan view of the same shoe;

Fig. 3 is a longitudinally vertical section through the shoe of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a top plan view of an insole such as is used in the shoe of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a section on the line 5 5 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a section on the line 8-6 of Fig. 4;

Fig. '7 is a. plan view of the forward section of a sock lining appropriate for use with the insole of Fig.4;

Fig. '7 is a fragmentary section on line fi -4 of Fig.7;

Fig. 8 is a plan view of a rear section of a sock lining;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary section on line B -8 of Fig. 8;

Fig. 9 is a view of the inner (or upper) surface of the insole of Fig. 4, with the forward section of the sock lining secured thereto;

Fig. 10 is a section on the line ill-l0 of Fig. 9;

Fig. 10 is a fragmentary longitudinal section through the forepart of a last, showing the insole of Fig. 9 mounted thereon;

Fig. 11 is a bottom plan view showing the insole and an upper assembled on a last, and with the pulling-over tacks in place and the sides and heel lasted by the use of staples and tacks respectively;

Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 11 but showing the shoe substantially at the completion of the lasting operation, and with a presser device disposed upon. the internal margin of the forepart of the shoe;

Fig. 13 is a transverse section at the forepart of the shoe showing the arrangement of the parts at the completion of the lasting operation;

Fig. 14 is a fragmentary section substantially on the line Hl4 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 15 is a similar section on the line -l5l5 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 16 is a similar section at the line l6-l6 of Fig. l;

Fig. 17 is a similar section at the line l'|--l1 of Fig. 1;

finished for use in a shoe in which the forward part of the sock lining is omitted; and

Fig. 21 is a plan view of a shoe employing an insole like that of Fig. 20 and a rear sock lining member like that of Fig. 8. I Referring to the drawings, the numeral I designates the upper of a shoe having the outer sole 2 and the heel 3. Referring to Figs. 4, 5 and 6, the inner sole 4', which forms an element of the shoe illustrated in Fig. 1, consists of a piece of sheet material such as leather, artificial leather, fiber board, cloth, or any other suitable substance, and has the upper (or inner) surface 5 and the lower (or outer) surface 6, such surfaces being substantially parallel and plane, that is to say, this sole has no upstanding ribs, flaps, channels, or other elements which in certain shoe constructions are provided to facilitate the attachment of other parts to the insole.

In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, and before the shoe parts are assembled for lasting, I prepare a forward sock lining section I, (Fig. 7) and also prepare a rear device is pressed down by the action of the wipsock lining section 8. Preferably the rear edge of the sock lining section I is beveled on its upper (or inner) surface at the point 2| (Fig. 7), and the forward edge of the rear sock lining section 8 is beveled at its under surface, as at 22 (Fig. 8 Preferably the width of the forward section I at its rear end is substantially equal to the width of the rear section. 8 at the forward end of the latter, so that when the forward end of the rear section is overlapped on to the beveled part 2| ,of the forward section, the lateral edges of the two sections will merge and form substantially unbroken lines.

Having prepared the insole 4 and the forward sock lining section I, the latter is now placed in registry with the forward portion-of the insole and on the inner or upper surface of the latter, and these parts are permanently united in any suitable manner, for example, by the employment of adhesive. This adhesive may be paste, glue (preferably waterproofed), a cellulose derivative (such as cellulose acetate), rubber latex, rubber cement, or the like, and if rubber be employed, the parts may be vulcanized so as to insure a permanent union. The sock lining section"! is applied smoothly to the insole surface, and, if desired, the parts may berolled or subjected to pressure so as substantially to integrate them and prevent subsequent separation even when subjected to the heat, pressure, and moisture of the foot, and .to the flexing to which the bottom of a shoe is subjected during use.

Having thus secured the forward sock lining section I to the insole 4, the latter is assembled with an upper upon a last L (Fig. 10 the sock lining section being disposed against the last bottom.

Before mounting the insole on the last it may, if desired, be provided with a stiff pre-curved shank stiffener I3, for example of steel or other metal, attached to the insole as by means of staples I 4 or otherwise,'and this shank stifiener may, if desired, be covered by a shield member l5 of fiber board, leather or other suitable material secured to the insole, as for example by stitches, staples, or cement. .While such a com posite insole is desirable, particularly in a shoe in which the outer sole is to be secured by adhesive, it is not essential to the practice of the present method.

After the insole and upper have been assembled on the last, as above noted, the shoe is lasted in accordance with any appropriate method which does not result in substantial disfigurement of the upper surface of the insole. For example, the upper may be pulled over and secured at its forward portion by the temporary pullingover tacks Ill. Usually the number of these temporary {pulling-over tacks is not substantial, (as compared with the number of lasting tacks or staples commonly employed in the actual "lasting operation) from three to seven pulling-over tacks commonly being used. Thus, while there are in fact a few holes left in the insole when the pulling-over tacks are withdrawn, these holes are small and widely separated and, as a p actical matter, do not objectionably disfigure the insole. The last is then mounted 'in a bed lasting machine, and the margin at the upper of the forepart is wiped-in by bed-lasting wipers l6, (Fig. 12) and after the opposed surfaces of the margin of the upper and the bottom of the insole have been made mutually adhesive, a suitable presser device I l, is interposed between the wipers l6 and the wiped-in marginal material, and this presser ers, so as to flatten the wiped-in material and hold it in position while the adhesive is setting. This presser device may. if desired, be provided with a suitable heater element l8.

At some suitable point in the lasting operation, for example, before the wiping-in-and securing of the upper at the forepart, the shank portion may be lasted, as for example by the use of staples H in accordance with the well known Littleway process, or by means of tacks, or adhesive, asmay be preferred, and likewise the rear or heel end of the shoe is lastedpfor example by the employment of permanent lasting tacks l2, or by adhesive, if the latter be preferred.

After the margin of the upper has been lastedinover the insole and secured, as just described, a suitable filler piece I9 of felt, paper, leather, cork, or the like, may be disposed-upon the central part of the insole at the forepart of the latter, to fill the space intermediate the edges of the upper, and if the outsole is to be attached by means of adhesive, the'marginal'portion of the bottom may be subjected to a toughening or abrading operation to provide a secure attachment for the adhesive. The outer sole 2 is now. secured in position by adhesive and thenthe shoe is substantially completed in any appropriate manner and by usual processes and instrumentalities. Substantially at the completion of the shoe-making process, and after the last has been I be of different materials, or if of the same material, may be of different colors or finishes in order to give a contrasting and artistic appearance to the bottom of the shoe. The forward edge 20 of the rear section may, if desired, be curved, as illustrated in Fig. 8, or in fact, of any suitable contour such as to enhance the appearance of the bottom of the shoe, the selected contour of this end of the section being of especial importance when the two sections are of different materials or appearance.

Since the forward section I of the sock lining is placed upon the insole and secured thereto before the insole is incorporated in theslioe, it is possible to register it with the insole and to se-. cure it thereto smoothly, accurately and permanently much more easily and certainly than when it. is attempted to insert the sock lining after the shoe is substantially complete. I On the other hand, since the rear section 8 only extends as far as the ball of the foot, or thereabouts, it is comparatively easy to insert this section after completion of the shoe, since the rear part of the shoe is open to inspection and for manipulation penetrate the insole, I contemplate that if the entire margin of the upper be lasted by a method which does not objectionably disflgure the upper surface of the insole, the sock lining may, if desired, be made in a single piece and applied -as a whole to the insole before the latter is assembled' on the --1aSt,'thl1S securing certain advantages of the present invention, and making it unnecessary to apply any portion of the sock lining after the shoe is substantially complete.

If the shank of the shoe is to be provided with a cushioning element, arch-support, or other similar device, and if a heel cushion is to be provided, these parts may conveniently be secured to the under surface of the rear section 8 of the sock lining before the latter is inserted in the shoe. Thus, for example, as shown in Fig. 18, the cushioning member 28, which may be of sponge rubber or the like is secured by adhesive or otherwise to the under side of section 8. In

' per surface 4'.

the event that such a cushioning element is to be employed, it may be desirable to provide sock lining section 8 with alateral'oifset or projection 24 at one side to cover and conceal this cushioning element. If a heel cushion pad is to be employed, such pad 25 (-Fig. .18) may be stuck to the bottom of the section 8, and then when the latter is placed in a shoe and secured in position, the parts 23 and 25 are concomitantly applied and positioned in the same operation.

While in accordance with my preferred procedure I employ the forward sock lining section 7, made as a part independent of the insole proper, I may, under certain circumstances, dispense with this forward section, which in a broad sense forms merely a suitable surface finish for the upper surface of the insole. Thus as illustrated for example in Fig. 20, I may, if desired, provide the insole 4* with a finished forepart up- This finished surface may be produced by hot pressing, embossing, POlishing, coating, coloring, or the like, and extends rearwardly from the toe substantially to the ball of the foot. Employing this insole, the shoe is made in the usual way, and when substantially complete the rear sock lining section 8*,"(Fig. 21) is introduced into the rear part of the shoe and its forward edge 20, which may be beveled in the same way as the forward edge of the section 8, is firmly secured to the insole so as to overlap the rear edge of the finished surface 4*. While I have referred to the surface! as a finished surface, I do not necessarily imply thereby that the insole material has undergone any special treatment, since the surface of the insole at this point, prepared in accordance with usual procedures, may be sufficiently smooth and present so satisfactory an appearance as to allow its exposure to view without any further treatment. In the same way, if the entire shoe be lasted so as to avoid objectionable disfigurement of the upper surface of the insole, as by tacks, stitches, holes, discolorations, bulges, or the like, the sock lining may be wholly dispensed with,or may be replaced by a simple heel pad or cushion adapted to furnish a soft and comfortable surface on which the heel of the wearer may rest. 1-.

While I have hereinabove described and suggested certain desirable embodiments of the invention and modes of carrying it into effect, and while I have described the characteristics of a shoe resulting from my improved process, I do not wish to be limited to the precise mode of procedure pointe out, or to the use of the particular materials m ntioned, but wish it to be understood that my process is capable of modification,

and in particular, with reference to the order of steps employed;that materials other than those mentioned may be used; and that all equivalents, both of process steps, materials, and shapes of ear? to withstand the lasting-strains, preparing a thin and flexible sock lining member, wholly independent of the insole but corresponding in contour and dimensions to one end portion at least of the insole, registering the sock lining member with the insole, permanently securing the sock lining member flat against the inner face of the insole so as to cover said face throughout substantially the entire width of the latter, assembling the insole with its attached sock lining member with a shoe upper upon a last, the sock lining member being interposed between the last bottom and insole throughout substantially the entire width of the latter, lasting the marginal portion of the upper over onto the bottom of the insole without resort to any substantial number of fasteners such as would penetrate and disfigure the sock lining, and securing such marginal portion of the upper to the insole in permanent lasted position by means of adhesive.

2. A shoe comprising an outer sole, an inner ing layer covering substantially the entire width of the innersurface of the forepart only of the inner sole and permanently joined to the letter, said finishing layer being exposed to view from the interior of the shoe, an upper having its margin lasted over onto the lower surface of the inner sole, adhesive permanently uniting the margin of the upper to the inner sole at the forepart at least of the shoe, the finishing layer at the forepart of the inner sole being substantially free from tack holes, a lining member, independent of the inner sole, covering the rear portion of the inner sole, and adhesive permanently uniting said lining member to the inner sole.

3. That method of making shoes which comprises assteps preparing an insole, preparing a sock lining comprising independent forepart and rear-part sections, securing the forepart section of the sock lining to the insole, assembling the insole with an upper upon a' last and lasting the shoe, and at a later stage in the shoe-making process, inserting the rear sock lining section and securing it in position. 4. That method of making shoes which comprises as steps preparing an insole, preparing a sock lining comprising independent forepart and rear-part -sections, arranging the forepart section of the sock lining in registry with the forepartof the insole and permanently uniting it to the inner surface of the latter, assembling the insole and an upper upon a last, lasting the shoe, and at a later stage in the shoe-making process, inserting the rear section of the sock lining and securing it to the inner surface of the rear part of the insole.

5. That method of making shoes which comprises as steps preparing an insole, preparing a sock lining comprising independent forepart and rear-part sections, securing the forepart section of the sock lining to the inner face of the insole.

-assembling the insole and an upper upon a last, lasting the shoe while avoiding penetration of the forepart of the insole by any substantial number of the sock lining upon the rear part of the in sole and permanently securing it in position.

6. That method of making shoes which comprises as steps preparing an insole, preparing a sock lining comprising independent forepart and rear-part sections, sticking the forepart section of said sock lining to the inner face of the insole, assembling the insole and an upper upon a last, lasting the margin of the upper down onto the bottom of the insole, holding the margin of the forepart, at least of the upper, in lasted position, but without resort to any substantial number of independent lasting fasteners, while adhesively uniting said margin to the insole, and at a later stage in the operation, inserting the rear sock lining section and securing it to the rear part of the insole.

7. That method of making shoes which comprises as steps preparing an insole, preparing a sock lining comprising independent forepart and rear-part sections, securing the forepart section of the sock lining to the inner surface of the insole, assembling the insole and upper upon a last, lasting the upper and securing its margin to the insole, the lasting of the margin at the forepart at least being accomplished without the use of a substantial number of insole penetrating las't ing fasteners, substantially completing the shoe, securing to the under surface of the rear sock lining section a cushioning element, introducing the rear sock lining section into the shoe, and securing it permanently to the rear portion of the insole.

8. That method of making shoes which comprises as steps preparing an insole having substantially fiat and parallel upper and lower surfaces, providing the'upper face of the forepart of the insole with a surface finish, assembling the insole with an upper upon a last, lasting the margin of the upper down onto the lower surface of the insole, securing the margin at the forepart to the insole by means of adhesive and without recourse to any substantial number of insole penetrating parts, securing the margin of the upper along the shank and heel portion by independent fastener elements, and at a later stage in the shoe-making process, inserting a sock lining member to cover the rear portion only of the insole.

9. A shoe comprising an outersole, an insole which is of substantially uniform thickness from its right-hand to its left-hand edge, an upper having its margin turned over onto the under side of the insole and lying substantially parallel to the latter, adhesive uniting the margin of the upper to the insole, and a two-part sock lining covering the inner surface of the insole, the forward section of the sock lining being of a material different from that of the rear section.

10. A shoe comprising an insole which is of substantially uniform thickness from its righthand to its left-hand edge, an upper having its margin turned over onto the under side of the insole and lying substantially parallel to the latter, adhesive uniting the margin of the upper to the insole, and a two-part sock lining covering the inner surface of the insole, the forward end of the rear section of the sock lining having a forwardly convex curvature and overlapping the rear end of the forward section.

11. A shoe comprising an insole which is of substantially uniform thickness from its righthand to its left-hand edge, an upper having its margin turned over onto the under side of the insole and lying substantially parallel to the latter, adhesive uniting the margin of the upper to the insole, and a two-part sock lining covering the inner surface of the insole, the rear section of the sock lining having a cushioning pad attached to its under side and a lateral offset to cover said pad.

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