US1994775A - Method of reproducing fabrics - Google Patents

Description

March 19, 1935. M, EB ANG v 1,994,775

METHOD OF REPRODUCING FABRICS Filed July 13, 1932 ATTORNEY;

Patented Mar. 19 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFIL'ICE METHOD OF, REPRQDUCING FABRICS Mack Leblang, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to Hazard Advertising Corporation, New York,: N. Y., a corporation of New York Application July 13, 1932, Serial No. 622,211

7 Claims. (01. 101-211) This invention relates to the production of manner may possibly give a correct representation printed illustrations of merchandise for use in of the color, the illustration does not have the apadvertising folders, catalogues, and the like. pearance of a piece of stocking material, because More particularly, the invention is concerned with the gauge is not visible.

a novel method of producing illustrations in color Various other methods have also been tried in 5 of knitted or woven goods, and particularly such connection with the production of printed illusgoods as have an irregular surface which cantrations of sto kings, but none of these methods not be accurately reproduced in illustrations made produces satis actory results, so far as I am aware, by ordinary methods heretofore employed. The the principal deficiency being that the illustra- 10 new method offers special advantages in contions so made do not resemble stocking goods 10 nection with the illustration of the colors in which in appearance. Also, these methods are expensilk stockings are made up, and an adaptation of sive to use because the colors are produced by the invention for that purpose will'be described in mixing of inks to achieve each individual shade detail for purposes of explanation, though it is and a folder which'is to have several illustrations to be understood that the utility of the invention in diiferent colors must go through the press 15 is not limited to the illustration of that particular once for each illustration.

material. r In order to overcome these difficulties, I have At the present time, it is the custom for manudevised a new method of producing illustrations facturers of stockings to supply their product in of such materials as stoc in by which illusmany different colors, those colors now enjoying trations can be made which can be distinguished 20 the widest popularity being light shades, for ex from samples of the goods only upon close inample, of brown. While the different shades are spection. The new method is relatively simple designated by names, the differences between the to practice, involves substantially no more exshades are so slight that the names have little pense than the old four color process, and is 5 significance to the average purchaser. Accordsuperior thereto in the results obtained. ingly, in sending out sales literature relative to For a better understanding of the invention, their stockings, the manufacturers supply jobbers reference will be made to the accompanying and other large purchasers with sample cards on d w in which I which swatches of the goods are attached but i 1 is n enlarged face w Of a portion of the cost of thematerial and of the labor in preone printing plate used in practicing the new 30 paring the cards or folders prevents the wide processri p a being us d to p t th gau distribution of the cards among consumers for Fig. 2 is a sectional view through the plate advertising purposes. If amanufacturer could shown in Fig. l; I economically distribute folders containing printed Figs. 3, 4, and 5- are enlarged face views of illustrations in color which show thedifferent portions of color plates used, and V 35 shades of the stockings and resemble the knitted g, 6 is sectional w Of One the plates material in appearance, his sales would undoubtshown in Figs- 4, a edly increase, but heretofore no satisfactory In p act wp s s in the D process of producing such illustrations has been tion of colored illustrations of stockings, a num- 40 available. l ber of printing plates are first prepared, one of 40 Attempts have been made heretofore to produce these plates being used to print the gauge lines p ted lustrations in color of stockings, for and the others to apply the combinations of colors example, by the four color process,'but when required to produce the actual color and shade that process is used, the resulting illustration is of the goods. In many instances, a gauge plate far from satisfactory because it contains no clean and two color plates are enough, but in others, and sharp delineation of the individual threads it s necessary to p y three or ou 0010 7 h of the goods, which is commonly replates to obtain the desired effect. These several ferred to as the gauge. In four color work, as p te y adva ta u made y p otois well known, the plates used print a multiplicity n ravin p s h ua p p t f of fine dots, the size and combination of which individual plates being largely in accordance with 50 produces the difierent colors desired. In the case standard practice. of stockings, however, it is not possible to obtain The gauge Plate is made d ec om the fabric a sharply defined illustration of the gauge by and for this purpose a piece of the stocking is means of plates produced by the four color illuminated both from the front and rear and a process, and while anillustration producedinthis line negat v is m d n h ordinary y- In 55 the exposure of the photographic medium, lighting of the stocking from front and rear is necessary to cause the gauge lines to be well defined and I have found that best results are obtained when the illumination is arranged so that about three-quarters of the light comes from behind and through the stocking and one-quarter of the light illuminates its face. After making the line negative, a contact positive is made therefromand the various other well-known operations including etching are carried on to produce a printing plate from the positive, the plate having lines on its printing face corresponding to the lines of the gauge in reverse. The printing face of this plate is illustrated in Fig. 1 in which the raised portions 10 of the plate carry the printing ink.

For some colors, it is sufficient to produce a line negative of the gauge and a contact positive therefrom, with the printing plate produced from the positive in the manner described. For other colors, tinting must be employed to obtain the correct final color. Forthis purpose, a line negative and a contact positive are made in the us'ualway. A negative is then made of a plain white surface through a screen. This negative is then placed against the face of the contact positive and a metalplate having a sensitized surface is exposed to the positive and the negative made through the screen. The printing areas on the plate are thus'filled with dots instead of being solid. The intensity of the exposure through the screen will depend on the color of the material'to be reproduced and the making of the negative fromthe screen will be in accordance with standard practice known'to any person skilled in the art.

The other printing plates used for making the illustrations are for color purposes and the production of each plate involves photographing a plain white surface through a screen having rows of dots. The intensity of the exposure through the screen in each case will depend on the desired final color effect and the particular color which is to be printed from the plate made from the screen. r v I Each color plate so made, as for example, that illustrated in Fig. 6, has dots 11 thereon in rows, the tops of the dots carrying the ink. The plates 12, 13, and 14 to be used in making the same illustration have their rows of dots at different angles, as shown, and this is accomplished by tilting the screens to different pos'itionswhen the negatives are made. When the gauge plate is tinted, the screen is applied in a different position from those used in makingthe color plates.

Upon completion of the plates proofs are made therefrom in the usual'way, the color plates being preferably printed first and the gauge plate last. If the plates are not found satisfactory for the production of the desired color, corrections are made, as for example the plates may be altered by hand by cutting down the size of the dots or by burnishing the plates to spread the dots. If necessary, one or more new color plates may be made, although ordinarily a skilled workman will be able to make plates'to produce the desired color without difficulty.

Upon completion of the plates, a transfer is made from the gauge plate and from thisis made an embossing die. This is to be used for embossing the printed illustration and it is so prepared that the embossed illustration gives the same effect as the actual stocking.

In producing an illustration, the plates are inked with the proper colors and. the surface on which-the illustration is toappear receivesan shade of brown varying with the shade of the stocking material. Even though the ink employed on the line or gauge plate is of the same shade, oris closely similar to that of the stocking,

the lines will be visible because the dot plates merely produce a background of a single shade,

whereas the line orgauge plate prints lines on that background. However, if desired, the color of the ink used-on the line or gauge plate may be a shade slightly, darker than that of the background. The illustration is then embossed'by an embossing die having recesses corresponding to the lines of the line or gauge plate to impart to theillustration the same color effect as the stocking, the gauge lines are visible as in the goods, and the gauge-lines stand out because of the embossing. Asa result of these several factors, the illustration closely resembles an "actual sample of the goods and the difference can'bef'detected only upon close inspection. 7 Withmy processfand using inks of-the sam'e four colors, it is possible to'obtainrnany-distinct shades infthe illustrations by varying the sizes of the dots on the plates. Three. or four plates must be made for each illustration, but similar plates for all illustrations may be printed'at the same time and from the same ink, so thata card having illustrationsrepresenting many different stockings maybe printed simultaneously from the adapted to produce a representation in color of,

the lines of thematerial appearing in 'saidnegative', preparing colorprinting plates provided 'with printing dots arrangedin rows, "thean'gles of the rows differing in'the'different plates; subjecting the surfacewhich is to carrythe illustration {to impressions from said-color plates'successively, each plate being inked a different color, printing on said surface from said first platefand deforming said surface to make it conform to the character 'of the surfaceof Saidmaterial.

' 2. Ajmethod of }making printed illustrations in color of materials, which comprises preparing a line negative" of the material illuminatedfpartly from the front and partly from therear, prepar-' ing a positive from said negative, making a printing plate from said positive, said 'plate being adapted to produce a representation in one color ortne lines of the material appearing in said negative, preparing color printing plates provided withprinting dots arranged in rows, the anglesof therows differing in the differentplates, preparing an embossingdie fromsaid first platje, said die having recesses corresponding to said lines, subjecting the surfaoewhich is tocarry the 'illuse 'tration' t'o impressions from" said color-printing plates successively, said color-printing plates being inked different colors, subjecting said surface to impressionsfrom the 'line plate, and embossing said printedsurface. j jg v 3. 'A method of 'making printedcolore'd illustrations of a fabric, which comprises preparing a line negative 'of' the fabric illuminated partly from the front and partly from the rear, preparing a positive from said negative, exposing a sensitized metal surface to said positive through a screen, treating said plate to prepare it for use in printing, preparing color printing plates provided with printing dots arranged in rows at different angles, subjecting the surface which is to carry the illustration to impressions from said color plates successively, each plate being inked a diiferent color, printing on said surface from said first plate, and embossing said printed surface to give it surface irregularities corresponding to those of said fabric.

4. The method of making printed illustrations of fabrics such as stocking material in the color of the material, which comprises illuminating the texture of the material partly from the front and partly from the rear, photographically reproducing the texture of the material While it is so illuminated to form a negative showing the gauge lines of the material, preparing a positive printing plate from said negative, preparing color printing plates provided with printing dots arranged in rows, the angles of the rows diifering in the different plates, subjecting the surface which is to carry' the illustration to impressions from said color-printing plates successively, said color-printing plates being inked different colors, and subjecting said surface to impressions from the line plate.

5. The method of making printed illustrations of fabrics such as stocking material in the color of the material, Which comprises illuminating the texture of the material partly from the front and partly from the rear, photographically reproducing the texture of the material while it is so illuminated to form a negative showing the gauge lines of the material, preparing a positive printing plate from said negative, preparing color printing plates provided with printing dots arranged in rows, the angles of the rows differing in the different plates, subjecting the surface which is to carry the illustration to impressions from said color-printing plates successively, said color-printing plates being inked different colors, subjecting said surface to impressions from the line plate, and deforming said surface to give it surface irregularities to conform to those of the material.

6. The method of making printed illustrations of fabrics such as stocking material in the color of the material, which comprises illuminating the texture of the material partly from the front and partly from the rear, photographically reproducing the texture of the material while it is so illuminated to form a negative showing the gauge lines of the material, preparing a positive printing plate from said negative, preparing color printing plates provided with printing dots arranged in'rows, the angles of the rows differing in the different plates, subjecting the surface which is to carry the illustration to impressions from said color-printing plates successively, said color-printing plates being inked different colors, subjectingsaid surface to impressions from the line plate, and embossing said surface to make it conform to that of said material.

7. The method of making printed illustrations of fabrics such as stocking material in the color of the material, which comprises illuminating the texture of the material partly from the front and partly from the rear, photographically reproducing the texture of the material While it is so illuminated to form a negative showing the gauge lines of the material, preparing a positive printing plate from said negative, preparing color printing plates provided with dots arranged in rows, the angles of the rows diifering in the different plates, subjecting the surface which is to carry the illustration to impressions from said color-printing plates successively, said colorprinting plates being inked different colors, and thereafter subjecting said surface to impressions from the line plate.

MACK LEBLANG.

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