US1993799A - Curtain plaiting and stitching machine - Google Patents

Curtain plaiting and stitching machine Download PDF

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US1993799A
US1993799A US624088A US62408832A US1993799A US 1993799 A US1993799 A US 1993799A US 624088 A US624088 A US 624088A US 62408832 A US62408832 A US 62408832A US 1993799 A US1993799 A US 1993799A
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jaws
fabric
stapling
plaits
curtain
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Philips Henry
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A47FURNITURE; DOMESTIC ARTICLES OR APPLIANCES; COFFEE MILLS; SPICE MILLS; SUCTION CLEANERS IN GENERAL
    • A47HFURNISHINGS FOR WINDOWS OR DOORS
    • A47H13/00Fastening curtains on curtain rods or rails
    • A47H13/14Means for forming pleats
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/08Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for ruching, gathering, casing, or filling lace, ribbons, or bindings; Pleating devices; Cuttlers; Gathering feet; Crimpers; Curlers; Rufflers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05DINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/02Folding
    • D05D2305/04Folding longitudinally to the sewing direction
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2503/00Domestic or personal
    • D10B2503/02Curtains

Definitions

  • My invention relates primarily to a machine for plaiting curtains but obviously it may be used in other situations where it is desirable tomake permanent folds in fabrics such as draperies, fabrics for decorating boxes, etc.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide an improved methodof securingplaits, this being donebythe use of staples.
  • Fig. 1 is a perspective of a preferred form of the machine, 3 I
  • Fig- 2 a partial longitudinal section
  • FIG. 4 a similar elevation, viewed from the right of Fig. 3, showing that side of the stapling means hereinafter referred to as the folder,
  • FIG. 5 an elevation similar to Fig. 3, showing the jaws of the stapling device in closed position
  • Fig- 6 a plan of the stapling device, with the jaws somewhat further open than in Fig. 3,
  • reference character 10 indicates generally the fixed frame of the device said frame comprising a pair ofspaced bars 11 upon which a plurality of stapling devices are supported by means including for each device a base 12 and a strap 13, both the base and the strap extending across the two bars 11 and being secured together by screws 14.
  • a screw 14 the corresponding stapling device can readily be adjusted-lengthwise of the frame in order to vary the relative distance between the stapling devices or for other reasons.
  • Each of the stapling devices comprises a movablejaw I and a fixed jaw 16, the movable jaws being pivoted at 17.
  • Each of the fixed jaws is provided with braces shown at 18 and has secured thereto at its rear side, as seen in Fig.1, a rod 19 being bent to provide guiding means for a series of pins 20 mounted in a slot at 21in a bar 22, the purpose of mounting these pins in the slot being to permit them to be adjusted lengthwise of. the machine, simultaneously with the stapling device, whereby they will maintain their position, in the respective guides, this position being'such that the pins may move down 5 from the position shownin Fig. 1 between the jaws. of the stapling device, carrying with them folds or plaitsof the cloth extending across said Jaws, I
  • the bar 22 is formedas part of a frame including a lower bar 23 and uprights 24.
  • Weights 25 are .mounted on. to the uprights by means of cords 26 extending over pulleys 27 on the frameof the machina
  • Thebar -23 is. connected to a treadle 28 or other suitable actuating means pivotally mounted ona support 29, b'ya rod'30, a spring 31 and rods 32, the spring'permitting'lost motion as hereinafter exp1ained..- 1
  • I For supporting the. curtain or other fabric to be plaited Iprovide .at each end. of the machine antable. 33.
  • These tables may beL-shapedwith the top of the table. restingon a cross-bar 34 and the front member35cf the. table depending in front of said cross-barorin front of thepost 36 supportingthesame'
  • the table is adjustably supported by means-of abolt inountedin the fixed frameand havinga'winged nut 37., the. bolt extending, through a slot 38 in. the front member of the tablewhereby it will be, seen that the table can besupported to project more orless beyond the end of the frame.
  • Each of the tables hasa slot, best shown in Fig.
  • Fig. 2 shows a cur- 45 tain 43 in position'in the machine and it will be noted that the curtain rests on the upper faces of the'stapling devices, and that the pins 20 have drawn plaitsor folds down between the open jaws.
  • adjusting means comprising screws 44 (only one of which is shown at the left in Fig. '1)- these screws being.
  • a fixed table 4'? mounted on the frame in front of the stapling devices serves to support and steady the tables 33 as they are adjusted inwardly and it will be understood that whereas I have shown a series of four stapling devices the machine may be operated with any suitable number. When a smaller number of stapling devices is used at similarly close intervals, as when a narrow curtain is to be plaited the tables may be adjusted inwardly to.
  • the curtain can be first plaited at one side and then positioned for another set of plaits, etc.
  • Each of the stapling devices is here shown as carrying four stitching mechanisms for inserting wire staples such as shown at 48 in Fig. 6.
  • the stitching devices comprise body members 49 secured together by a cross-bar 50 welded or other.- wise suitably fixed to said body members.
  • the body members 49 are supported for movement on frame elements 51 secured together by a crossbar 52 (Fig. 5)' and are normally held in the position indicated in Figs. 3 and 5 by means of coil springs shown in dotted lines at 53, from which position they may be moved to the left in said figures to first push the staples 48 through the folds of the cloth at the point where the folds are pinched together by the jaws when the jaws are in the position of Fig.
  • a guard 55 is pivoted at 56 to upright portions of frame elements 51. This guard extends over all the parallel frame elements of the movable jaws and aids to hold them in place and it serves also as guiding and concealing means for the staples and for the leaf springs 57 cooperating therewith. The position of this guard plate is indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 6.
  • Pairs of upright members 51 form between them troughs for the staples, in well understood manner and handle members are indi cated at 58 for followers of conventional type which urge into uppermost position wire staples that are supported on the bottom members 59 of the magazine formed by these members and the side members 51, the coiled ends of leaf springs attached to said handles being shown at 58'.
  • a lever 60 comprising two members spaced apart at their upper ends and connected by a cross portion 61 (Figs. 4 and 6) bearing against the cross-bar 50 which connects the stitchers. These levers are pivoted on the fixed jaw at 62 and at their lower ends are pivotally connected to a stirrup 64 surrounding a rod 65. It will be seen that the levers can readily be disconnected from the rod and their connection thereto can be adjusted according to the adjusted positions of the stapling devices.
  • the rod 65 is slidably mounted in bearings on the main frame and is biased to move toward the left in Fig.
  • a coil spring 66 bearing at one end against a part of the frame and at the other end against a head or nut 6'7 on the rod.
  • a cord 68 which passes over a pulley 69 on a shaft 70 and thence through the treadle 28, this cord being provided at some distance below the treadle with a knot or other suitable obstruction I1 whereby the treadle may move to some little distance before it pulls on the cord 68.
  • Figs. '7 and 8 I have shown a portion of a curtain or other fabric '72 having'plaits '73 and a hem at '74, the plaits being secured by means of staples whose ends are shown projecting through the cloth at '75 in Fig. 8, said ends being clinched.
  • the spring 66 Upon release of the treadle the spring 66 will move the rod 65 to the left, releasing the movable elements of the stitchers which are now moved to the right by their springs 49 and permitting the jaws 15 to open. Such release of the treadle also permits the weights 25 to elevate the frame for pins 20 and the clamps 40 may now be opened to release the fabric and permit the positioning of another fabric to be plaited and stitched.
  • means for positioning a curtain or the like means for positioning a curtain or the like, a plurality of plait-forming devices, means f or conjoint actuation of said devices, a like plurality of stapling means, each comprising devices for inserting and securing a row of staples in a plait, and means for actuating said stapling means simultaneously.
  • stapling devices having a fixed jaw and a movable jaw, means for supporting a strip of fabric in relation to said jaws, means for engaging the ends of the strip to tension the same, means for forcing an intermediate portion of said fabric between said jaws against such tension to make a plait, means for forcing the movable jaw against the fixed jaw, and means in connection with said jaws for thereupon forcing a staple through said plait.
  • a frame a pair ofjaws supported thereon, means on the frame for supporting a length of fabric over said jaws, means for forcing an intermediate part of said fabric between said jaws to make a plait,'means for bringing said jaws together, and coordinated means for forcing a staplethrough the fabric to secure the plait.
  • a frame a pair of jaws supported thereon, means on the frame for supporting a length of fabric over said jaws, means for forcing an intermediate part of said fabric between saidjaws to make a plait, means for bringing said jaws together, and means for securing the sides of the plait together.
  • means to support a length of fabric including a pair of clamps for holding opposite edges of said length of fabric, means biasing said clamps for movement away from each other, means for forming a plait in the fabric against the tension imparted to the fabric through said clamps, and means for securing the sides of said plait together.
  • a machine frame means for supporting a length of fabric thereon, a plurality of stapling devices at spaced intervals on the frame, each device including separable jaws, means whereby the intervals between said stapling devices may be varied, a movable bar on the frame, pins mounted on the bar for adjustment in accordance with the position of said stapling devices,and means for moving the bar to carry said pins between the jaws of the respective stapling devices to form a plait of fabric between each pair of jaws, means for closing the jaws, and means for thereupon securing the sides of the plaits together.
  • said securing means for each plait comprising means for stapling the plait together at a plurality of spaced intervals.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Dovetailed Work, And Nailing Machines And Stapling Machines For Wood (AREA)

Description

March 12, 1935. 1,993,799
CURTAIN PLAITING AND STITCHING MACHINE Filed July 22, 1952 3 Sheets-Sheet l March 12, 1935.
H. PHILLIPS CURTAIN PLAITING AND STITCHING MACHINE Filed July 22, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 March 1935- H. PHILLIPS CURTAIN PLAITING AND STITCHING mcam 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed July 22, 1932 Patented Mar. 12, 1935 UNI-TED JSYTATES PATENT oFFrcE I CURTAIN PLAITING AND ,STITCHING, Y
MACHINE 7 Henry Phillips, Memphis, Tenn. Application'July 22, 1932, Serial No. 624,088 p 12 Claims.
My invention relates primarily to a machine for plaiting curtains but obviously it may be used in other situations where it is desirable tomake permanent folds in fabrics such as draperies, fabrics for decorating boxes, etc. I
It is an object of the invention to make'plaits such as can readily be taken out of the fabric when desired, as when a curtain is to be cleaned, although usually it will not befound'necessary to removethe'plaits'at such times. 1 I
I Another'object of the invention'is to provide means 'for making and securing aplurality of plaits? simultaneously. ;v
Another object of the invention is to provide an improved methodof securingplaits, this being donebythe use of staples. I Referring to the drawings, which are made a part of this application and in which similar reference characters indicate similar parts:
Fig. 1 is a perspective of a preferred form of the machine, 3 I
Fig. 1a, a detail of parts hereinafter described,
Fig- 2, a partial longitudinal section,
Fig. 3, aside elevation of stapling means and operating meanstherefor, I
Fig. 4, a similar elevation, viewed from the right of Fig. 3, showing that side of the stapling means hereinafter referred to as the folder,
Fig. 5, an elevation similar to Fig. 3, showing the jaws of the stapling device in closed position,
Fig- 6, a plan of the stapling device, with the jaws somewhat further open than in Fig. 3,
I Fig. 7, a perspective of a portion of a plaited fabric, and e Fig. 8', a bottom plan of the same. In'the drawings reference character 10 indicates generally the fixed frame of the device said frame comprising a pair ofspaced bars 11 upon which a plurality of stapling devices are supported by means including for each device a base 12 and a strap 13, both the base and the strap extending across the two bars 11 and being secured together by screws 14. In this way it will be seen that by loosening a screw 14 the corresponding stapling device can readily be adjusted-lengthwise of the frame in order to vary the relative distance between the stapling devices or for other reasons.
7 Each of the stapling devices comprises a movablejaw I and a fixed jaw 16, the movable jaws being pivoted at 17. (Figs. 3 and 5) Each of the fixed jaws is provided with braces shown at 18 and has secured thereto at its rear side, as seen in Fig.1, a rod 19 being bent to provide guiding means for a series of pins 20 mounted in a slot at 21in a bar 22, the purpose of mounting these pins in the slot being to permit them to be adjusted lengthwise of. the machine, simultaneously with the stapling device, whereby they will maintain their position, in the respective guides, this position being'such that the pins may move down 5 from the position shownin Fig. 1 between the jaws. of the stapling device, carrying with them folds or plaitsof the cloth extending across said Jaws, I
In order to permitsuch movementof the pins the bar 22 is formedas part of a frame including a lower bar 23 and uprights 24. Weights 25 are .mounted on. to the uprights by means of cords 26 extending over pulleys 27 on the frameof the machina Thebar -23 is. connected to a treadle 28 or other suitable actuating means pivotally mounted ona support 29, b'ya rod'30, a spring 31 and rods 32, the spring'permitting'lost motion as hereinafter exp1ained..- 1
For supporting the. curtain or other fabric to be plaited Iprovide .at each end. of the machine antable. 33. These tables may beL-shapedwith the top of the table. restingon a cross-bar 34 and the front member35cf the. table depending in front of said cross-barorin front of thepost 36 supportingthesame' The table is adjustably supported by means-of abolt inountedin the fixed frameand havinga'winged nut 37., the. bolt extending, through a slot 38 in. the front member of the tablewhereby it will be, seen that the table can besupported to project more orless beyond the end of the frame. 'Each of the tables hasa slot, best shown in Fig. .112, in which the base member 39'of a clamp is. slidably' supported, said clamp including anupper member 40 and suitable 35 7 means forholding the jaws of the twomembers in clamping. relation of the cloth. For biasing the clamps to hold the cloth taut a pair of weights 41 are. connected by cords .42 tothe respective clamps. I
The stitching means carriedby the movable jaws of the stapling devices is not illustrated in full detail as suchjmeans are old and well known in the art and since I do not limit myself to any specific form of the same. Fig. 2 shows a cur- 45 tain 43 in position'in the machine and it will be noted that the curtain rests on the upper faces of the'stapling devices, and that the pins 20 have drawn plaitsor folds down between the open jaws. In order that these plaits maybe drawn only so far as desired and in order that the length of plaits may be adjustedl provide adjusting means comprising screws 44 (only one of which is shown at the left in Fig. '1)- these screws being. raised and lowered by means including a shaft 44' connecting them and said shaft being connected by suitable gearing to a shaft 45 here shown as operated by a crank 46. A fixed table 4'? mounted on the frame in front of the stapling devices serves to support and steady the tables 33 as they are adjusted inwardly and it will be understood that whereas I have shown a series of four stapling devices the machine may be operated with any suitable number. When a smaller number of stapling devices is used at similarly close intervals, as when a narrow curtain is to be plaited the tables may be adjusted inwardly to.
an extent limited only by the length of the slots 38 and it may also be noted that if more plaits are required than would be made by the machine as shown the curtain can be first plaited at one side and then positioned for another set of plaits, etc.
Each of the stapling devices is here shown as carrying four stitching mechanisms for inserting wire staples such as shown at 48 in Fig. 6. The stitching devices comprise body members 49 secured together by a cross-bar 50 welded or other.- wise suitably fixed to said body members. The body members 49 are supported for movement on frame elements 51 secured together by a crossbar 52 (Fig. 5)' and are normally held in the position indicated in Figs. 3 and 5 by means of coil springs shown in dotted lines at 53, from which position they may be moved to the left in said figures to first push the staples 48 through the folds of the cloth at the point where the folds are pinched together by the jaws when the jaws are in the position of Fig. 5, it being understood that the staples strike against a bar 54 for clinching them on the fabric. A guard 55 is pivoted at 56 to upright portions of frame elements 51. This guard extends over all the parallel frame elements of the movable jaws and aids to hold them in place and it serves also as guiding and concealing means for the staples and for the leaf springs 57 cooperating therewith. The position of this guard plate is indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 6. Pairs of upright members 51 form between them troughs for the staples, in well understood manner and handle members are indi cated at 58 for followers of conventional type which urge into uppermost position wire staples that are supported on the bottom members 59 of the magazine formed by these members and the side members 51, the coiled ends of leaf springs attached to said handles being shown at 58'.
For operating the movable jaws of the stapling device I have provided a lever 60 comprising two members spaced apart at their upper ends and connected by a cross portion 61 (Figs. 4 and 6) bearing against the cross-bar 50 which connects the stitchers. These levers are pivoted on the fixed jaw at 62 and at their lower ends are pivotally connected to a stirrup 64 surrounding a rod 65. It will be seen that the levers can readily be disconnected from the rod and their connection thereto can be adjusted according to the adjusted positions of the stapling devices. The rod 65 is slidably mounted in bearings on the main frame and is biased to move toward the left in Fig. 1 by means of a coil spring 66 bearing at one end against a part of the frame and at the other end against a head or nut 6'7 on the rod. For moving the rod in the opposite direction I have attached thereto a cord 68 which passes over a pulley 69 on a shaft 70 and thence through the treadle 28, this cord being provided at some distance below the treadle with a knot or other suitable obstruction I1 whereby the treadle may move to some little distance before it pulls on the cord 68.
In Figs. '7 and 8 I have shown a portion of a curtain or other fabric '72 having'plaits '73 and a hem at '74, the plaits being secured by means of staples whose ends are shown projecting through the cloth at '75 in Fig. 8, said ends being clinched.
In the operation of my device a suitable length of fabric is positioned over the stapling device with its ends held in the clamps 40 on the adjustable tables 33. The treadle 28 is now depressed and it will be seen that such movement pulls down on the rod and connected parts to draw down the frame 22. The movable jaws 15 being now at a distance from the fixed jaws, the pins 20 can pass down between the jaws and form plaits in the fabric as illustrated in Fig. 2, the depth of the plaits being determined by adjustment of the screws 44. When the frame has attained the downward limit of its movement spring 31 yields to permit the treadleto move farther and further depression of the treadle pulls on cord 68 so as to force rod 65 to the right against the tension of its spring 66, thereby moving the levers 60 counterclockwise so as to first close the jaws against the fabric as illustrated in Fig. 5 and then force the movable'parts of the stitching elements toward the left of said figure thereby pushing through the folds of the fabric staples which have been supplied to the space in front of the pushers by the magazines, these staples being bent over and clinched by engagement of their ends against bar 54. Upon release of the treadle the spring 66 will move the rod 65 to the left, releasing the movable elements of the stitchers which are now moved to the right by their springs 49 and permitting the jaws 15 to open. Such release of the treadle also permits the weights 25 to elevate the frame for pins 20 and the clamps 40 may now be opened to release the fabric and permit the positioning of another fabric to be plaited and stitched.
It will be obvious to those skilled in the art that various modifications may be made in my device without departing from the spirit of the invention, therefore I do not limit myself to what is shown in the drawings and described in the specification but only as indicated in the appended claims.
Having thus fully described my said invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:
1. In combination, means for forming a plurality of parallel plaits in a strip of fabric, and stapling means for securing said plaits in place.
2. In combination, means for holding opposite edges of a strip of fabric, means for forming plaits therein, and stapling means for securing said plaits in place.
' 3. In combination, means for positioning a curtain or the like having parallel side edges, means for forming a plurality of folds therein parallel to said edges, means for conjoint actuation of the folding means, a like plurality of stapling means, and means for actuating said stapling means simultaneously to fix said folds in parallel relation.
4. In combination, means for positioning a curtain or the like, a plurality of plait-forming devices, means f or conjoint actuation of said devices, a like plurality of stapling means, each comprising devices for inserting and securing a row of staples in a plait, and means for actuating said stapling means simultaneously.
5. In combination, means for forming a plurality of plaits simultaneously in a fabric, adjustable means for limiting the depth of the plaits, and stapling means for securing said plaits in place.
6. In combination, means for forming a plurality of parallel spaced-apart plaits in a fabric simultaneously, and simultaneously acting stapling means for securing all said plaits in place.
'7. In combination, stapling devices having a fixed jaw and a movable jaw, means for supporting a strip of fabric in relation to said jaws, means for engaging the ends of the strip to tension the same, means for forcing an intermediate portion of said fabric between said jaws against such tension to make a plait, means for forcing the movable jaw against the fixed jaw, and means in connection with said jaws for thereupon forcing a staple through said plait.
8. In combination, a frame, a pair ofjaws supported thereon, means on the frame for supporting a length of fabric over said jaws, means for forcing an intermediate part of said fabric between said jaws to make a plait,'means for bringing said jaws together, and coordinated means for forcing a staplethrough the fabric to secure the plait.
9. In combination, a frame, a pair of jaws supported thereon, means on the frame for supporting a length of fabric over said jaws, means for forcing an intermediate part of said fabric between saidjaws to make a plait, means for bringing said jaws together, and means for securing the sides of the plait together.
10. In combination, means to support a length of fabric including a pair of clamps for holding opposite edges of said length of fabric, means biasing said clamps for movement away from each other, means for forming a plait in the fabric against the tension imparted to the fabric through said clamps, and means for securing the sides of said plait together.
11. In combination, a machine frame, means for supporting a length of fabric thereon, a plurality of stapling devices at spaced intervals on the frame, each device including separable jaws, means whereby the intervals between said stapling devices may be varied, a movable bar on the frame, pins mounted on the bar for adjustment in accordance with the position of said stapling devices,and means for moving the bar to carry said pins between the jaws of the respective stapling devices to form a plait of fabric between each pair of jaws, means for closing the jaws, and means for thereupon securing the sides of the plaits together.
12. A device as in claim 11, said securing means for each plait comprising means for stapling the plait together at a plurality of spaced intervals.
HENRY PHILLIPS.
US624088A 1932-07-22 1932-07-22 Curtain plaiting and stitching machine Expired - Lifetime US1993799A (en)

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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2478003A (en) * 1947-05-27 1949-08-02 Lorentzen Hardware Mfg Corp Machine useful for forming end loops on venetian blind ladder tapes
US2582731A (en) * 1948-07-20 1952-01-15 Comstock & Wescott Stapling machine for applying labels
US2664562A (en) * 1950-07-28 1954-01-05 Boyle Midway Inc Positioning device for stapling machines
US2697831A (en) * 1949-10-01 1954-12-28 Neumayer Anton Dual stapling machine for marking pattern locations on fabrics
EP0290104A2 (en) * 1987-05-06 1988-11-09 van der Lelie, Hermanus Device to be used for fastening a hanger in a curtain plait and hanger suitable for using the device
WO1989007675A1 (en) * 1988-02-12 1989-08-24 Eisele Apparate- Und Gerätebau Gmbh Device for making and stitching pleats

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2478003A (en) * 1947-05-27 1949-08-02 Lorentzen Hardware Mfg Corp Machine useful for forming end loops on venetian blind ladder tapes
US2582731A (en) * 1948-07-20 1952-01-15 Comstock & Wescott Stapling machine for applying labels
US2697831A (en) * 1949-10-01 1954-12-28 Neumayer Anton Dual stapling machine for marking pattern locations on fabrics
US2664562A (en) * 1950-07-28 1954-01-05 Boyle Midway Inc Positioning device for stapling machines
EP0290104A2 (en) * 1987-05-06 1988-11-09 van der Lelie, Hermanus Device to be used for fastening a hanger in a curtain plait and hanger suitable for using the device
EP0290104A3 (en) * 1987-05-06 1989-01-18 Hermanus Van Der Lelie Device to be used for fastening a hanger in a curtain plait and hanger suitable for using the device
WO1989007675A1 (en) * 1988-02-12 1989-08-24 Eisele Apparate- Und Gerätebau Gmbh Device for making and stitching pleats
US5080030A (en) * 1988-02-12 1992-01-14 Eisele Apparate-Und Geratebau Gmbh Device for forming and sewing folds

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