US1987637A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 15, 1935. C "F PYM 1,987,637

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Jan. l2, 1929 Patented Jan. l5, 1935 UNITED '--sTATEs MANUFACTURE F SHOES Charles F. Pym, Beverly, Mass., assignor, by mesne assignments, to The Littleway Process Company, Boston, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application January 12, 1929, Serial No. .332,156 35 Claims. (Chu-145) This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes. In some of its important aspects it involves special advantages as applied to the manufacture of shoes of that type in which an outsole is secured directly'upon the margin of the upper `lying parallel to the shoe bottom over an insole for example by through-and-through stitching such as in McKay-sewed or Littleway shoes, and the invention is accordingly herein illustrated in its application to the making of shoes of that character. It is to be understood, however, that' in its more general aspects the invention is not thus limited in its applicability.

An object of the invention is to provide an improvement in shoemaking by such treatment of the upper as to dispense with fastenings n the insole in one or more locations where such fastenings have been commonly used heretofore for securing the margin of the upper in lasted position, for example in lasting one or both ends of a shoe where it has been customary heretofore to fasten the upper by lasting tacks clinched on the inner face of the insole. In addition to securing advantages such as follow directly from the omission of tacks or other fastenings, including the smoothness of the inner face of the insole because of the absence of fastenings, it is also an object to improve the quality of the shoemaking, especially in respect to the effectiveness of the lasting and the condition of the shoe bottom preparatory to the laying of the outsole.

With the above and other objects in view, the invention, in one of its aspects, provides a novel method involving such treatment of themarginal portion of the upper under pressure as to cause it to become permanently set in lasted position so that the upper will retain its lasted shape without the need of fastenings in the insole. Since treatment of this character, for its best effect, requires that the pressure be maintained for a longer time than it is practicable or convenient for a shoe to remain in a lasting machine, it is contemplated that, in accordance with the preferred practice, there will be utilized a-pressing or clamping device portable with the shoe and its last while maintaining on the marginal portion of the upper materials the required pressure in a direction heightwise of the last. As herein illustrated, such a device is applied in' continuous engagement with the margin of the upper around an end of the shoe bottomv over a substantial portion of the width of said margin and is pressed down upon the shoe bottom by the wipers of a lasting machine, the device being fastened to the last through the insolein such manner as to clamp it down upon the upper under substantially the full pressure applied by the wipers. It is further contemplated that in operating upon an end portion of upper materials including a stiffeneror stiffening material such as it is customary to use, for example, in a box toe between the leather upper and the lining, properties of the stiffening material may be availed of to render the treatmentapplied especially effective, since the stifening material lwhen hardened or set will assist in holding the margin in lasted position. Moreover, if the stiffening material is of a cementitious character, for example such as it is customary to treat by the application of heat or of a solvent prior to lasting, the pressure applied to the margin of the upper. materials in the manner above described will cause the stiffening material to penetrate through the lining and engage the insole over which the margin of the upper is lasted, and thus to act as a cement to secure the margin of the upper materials to the insole while also securing the different layers of the materials together. In operating upon work that does not include stiiening material of the above-mentioned character, or if conditions otherwise render it desirable, as in lasting the heel end of a shoe, cement may be applied to secure the margin of the upperto the insole under the clamping pressure. As herein illustrated. the clamping pressure is confined to that portion of the margin of the upper materials that actually overliesthe bottom face of the insole, instead of extending to the extreme edge of the shoe bottom, this being regarded as desirable in order to avoid any tendency to relax the tightness of thelasting by pressure applied in line with that portion of the upper which extends heightwise of the last at the edge of the insole.

In another aspect, the invention provides -a novel method involving the use of different treatment in lasting different portions of a shoe, especially in respect'to the manner of retaining the upper in lasted position. As herein illustrated the upper along the sides of the shoe between its toe and heel ends is secured in lasted one or both of, its ends as `may be preferred.

' In addition to its method aspects, the invention thus further presents novelty in shoe construction.

The invention will now be more particularly described by reference to the accompanying draw'- ing and thereafter-pointed out in the claims.

In the drawing,l f

Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing. a portion oi' a bed lasting machine of well-known type and illustrating in part the manner of lastingjhe toe and heel ends of ashoe in accordance with the objects of this invention;

. Fig. 2 is a similar view showing a clamp member applied to the toe end o! the shoe;

Fig. 3 is a vertical section illustrating more in detail how the clamp member is applied to the toe while the shoe is in the lasting machine;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view showing the clamp member illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3 and `also a screw for securing it in clamping position;

' Fig. 5 shows another form of clamp member citililnprising portions adjustable relatively to each o er;

Fig. 6 shows the forepart of a shoe as it appears -after the clamping pressure on the toe portion of the margin of the upper materials has been removed, a portion of the insole and of the last structure being broken away to show howa metal bushing provided in the last to receive the screw is locked to prevent it from turning;

Fig; 7 is a vertical section through the toe portion of a completed shoe `in the production l tion of a .lasted shoe of the type illustrated in other figures, showing more clearly how the upper.

is held in lasted position along its opposite sides between its toe and heel ends.

The drawing illustrates the invention in its application tothe manufacture of a shoe of the -through-and-through sewed type, in vwhich an.

outsole a (Fig. '7). is secured to an insole b by through-and-through stitches c, that is, stitches V which, at least at the time of the outsole-'stitching operation, extend through the insole to the inside of the shoe.- 'I hey further illustrate in special 'detail the manner of treatment of the upper materials at the end portions of the shoe, and in some of its aspects the invention is not particularly concerned with the manner in which the upper materials are heldin lasted position along the sides oi the shoe between its toe and heel end portions. Preferably however, and in accordance with one of the objects in view in the application of the invention to the manufacture of shoes free from clinched metallic fastenings on the greater portion atleast oi! the inner face o f the insole, the marginal portion of the upper materials along the sides of the shoe will be secured in lasted position byfastenings anchored in the body of the insole without penetrating entirely through it in accordance with the disclosure of the Goddu patent hereinbefore mentioned, these fastenings comprisng, as illustrated, staples d the legs of whichare anchored by curvature in the body of the insole as illustrated particularly'in Fig. 8. The staples, it will be observed, extend into portions of the insole not weakened by channeling. Figs. 1 and 2 show the shoe mounted on a last e with the upper materials fastened to the insole in this manner at the shank and ball portions of the shoe, the sides of the shoe having been thus lasted preparatory to the lasting of the toe and heel ends.

The drawing illustrates the lasting of the end portions of the shoe as eected by the aid of a bed lasting machine of a well-known type features of which are disclosed in various United States Letters Patent, including Letters Patent No. 1,284,870, granted on November 12, 1918, upon an application of MatthiasBrock. It is, accordingly, unnecessary for an understanding of the invention to describe the construction of that machine in detail. It will be understood that the last with its shoe materials is mounted at its heel end upon a shoe support 10 with the forepart of the last and shoe supported on a toe rest 12 (Fig. 3) For lasting the toe there are provided wipers14 operated by a hand lever (not shown) to' wipe the marginal portion of the upper materials inwardly over the insole. 'There is also vprovided a.toe band 16 for embracingthe shoe about the toe and for clamping theupper materials to theend and side facesof the last at the time when the wipers are operated to wipe the margin of the upper materials over the insole. It will be understood that the toe-lasting means vcomprising the toe band and the wipers is movable heightwisezof the shoe by means o! a treadle (not shown), and that the wipers 14 are utilized in` this movement to wipe the upper heightwise of the toe before wiping it inwardly over the insole. By the same means the wipers may also be pressed downwardly after they have been moved inwardly over the bottom of the shoe by the hand lever. v

After the margin of the upper materials has been wiped inwardly over the bottom face of the insole, as'illustrated in Fig. 1, and-preferably after the wipers have been withdrawn only to such a position as still to engage the overwiped margin of the upper near the edge of the shoe bottom and thus to hold the margin in its inwardly bent condition there is applied to the shoe for purposes of this invention a clamping device or member shaped, for example, as illustrated in Fig. 4, this member comprising a plate 18 having an edge contour approximating the contour of the edge of the shoe bottom about the toe to adapt it to be positioned over the margin of the upper inside of the edges of the wipers and in close rela- 'tion to these edges while the wipers are positioned as above described. The plate 18 has an upperengaging face formed for continuous engagement with the margin of the upper about the toe from one side of the toe to the other side, and as illustrated, formed for continuous engagement with all portions of the margin beneath it. Preferably also, this plate is so formed as to be substantially rigid in directions heightwise of the shoe, so as to apply effective clamping and shaping pressure to the margin of the upper materials when the plate is forced downwardly toward the bottom of the last and is held in clamping position by the means hereinafter described.

For pressing the clamping plate 18 ltoward the bottom face of the last to bring heavy pressure to bear upon the margin ofthe upper materials, and for also securing and holding the plate in clamping position after the shoe has been removed from the machine, there is utilized, as herein illustrated, a screw20 arranged to extend through a slot 22 in the plate 18 and into an edges of the wipers.

v 1,987,637 interiorly threaded metal bushing 24-secured in the last. It will be understood that the insole b` is provided with a hole 26 in position to align with/ the threaded recess in the bushing 24. The screw 20 may be inserted,.if desired, before the plate 18 is applied over the margin of the upper, as shown lin Fig. 1, with the headI of the screw upraised far enough to permit the plate to be positioned inside ofthe edges'of the wipers. It will be under stood that the slot 22 ln the plate permits the plate to be adjusted lengthwise and angularly in relation to the screw to position it in the desired relation to the margin of the upper vand the After the plate has been properly positioned, the screw is turned by the use of a suitable tool to cause its head portion which overlaps the plate to force the plate down toward the bottom face of the last and thereby to bring heavy pressure to bear upon the margin of the upper materials. If desired, after the screw has been turned enough to cause the plate to hold the margin of the upper materials effectiv'ely against displacement, the wipers 14 may be raised and advanced over the top of the plate, as illustrated in Fig. 3, and then forced down by the action of their operating treadle to assist in applying the plate to the margin of the upper with ,the desired pressure, the screw being further turned while the wipers are thus acting so as to maintain the full pressure applied by the wipers. Thereafter the wipers will be retracted, leaving the plate applied to the shoe as illustrated in Fig. 2, and then the shoe will be removed from the machine and put aside until the margin of the upper materials has set in lasted position. It will be evident that the clamp member or plate is thus secured by the screw 20 in clamping relation to the bottom of the last, i. e., so that the plate co-operates with the last in pressing the margin of the upper toward the bottom of the last and in maintaining the pressure, the screw being located farther inwardly from the edge ofthe shoe bottom than the margin of the upper. It will also be evident that the plate shown extends farther inwardly over the shoe bottom than it may be practicable or desirable to move the wipers, especially if the upper is lasted with cement, so that under all conditions the upper is pressed `down as far inwardly as its edge. g

The toe portion of the shoe herein shown, as illustrated in Fig. 3, includes in its upper materials a leather upper f, a lining g, and a box toe stiffener h inserted between the leather upper and the-lining. The stiiener h may include in its 'composition cementitious stiffening material such as it is customary to use in box toes, for example material adapted to be treated by heat or by a solvent prior to lasting. It is contemplated that when such stifiening material is used its cementitious properties may -be availed of to render especially effective the pressing treatment applied to the margin of the upper materials as hereinbefore described, since under the pressure the stiieningmmaterial will be forcedthrough the lining g so as to contact with the insole under the lining and thereby act as cement to secure the margin of the upper materials to the insole while also securing the different layers'together. If the toe does not include stiffening material of the character described, cement may, if desired, be applied to the margin of the upper materials to cause the diierent layers to adhere to each other and to the insole under the pressure of the plate 18. It is considered, however, that under some conditions the use of cementitious material of edge.

any character will not be necessary to theaccom- "plishment of the objects of the invention, but

that the margin of the upper materials under the continued heavy pressure of the plate 18 will become so eiectively set in lasted position that the upper materialsl will be retained in lasted shape without adherence of the margin to the insole. i T

After the margin of the upper materials has remained under the clampingpressure of the plate 18 a suilicient time to become set in lasted position, the plate and the screw 20 are removed; Thereafter the outsole a. is laid on the bottom of the shoe and secured to the insole by the through-and-through stitches c.

In addition to such advantages as arise from the omission of lasting tacks about the toe, including advantages due to the smoothness 4of the inner face of the insole as compared with conditions where tacks are clinched on that face and to the absence of any danger of breaking the needle of the outsole-sewing machine by engagement with tacks, there are also other important advantages resulting from treatment such as above described. With pressure applied to the margin of the upper materials continuously throughout the length of the margin under treatment, the upper is held more effectively in lasted position than it is, for example, by tacks inserted at spaced intervals, and this contributes to a more tightly lasted shoe than it is possible to obtain by the use of spaced fastenings. Furthermore, as illustrated the margin of the upper materials is pressed substantially throughout its width `so at upon the insole that there is no need for a later trimming operation such as is necessary where tacks are used, and the vbottom of the toe portion of the shoe also is in a atter and generally more satisfactory condition for the reception of the outsole than it is Where the upper is tacked and trimmed.

It will be observed that the clamping plate 18 applied as hereinbefore described is in a position in which its outer edge is spaced from the extreme edge of the shoe bottom, as illustrated in Fig. 3, since the plate is positioned inside of the edges of the wipers when the wipers are holding the upper at the edge of the shoe bottom. To lo- 'cate the plate in this relation to the shoe is of further advantage by reason of the fact that there is no clampingpressure in line with that portion of the upper which extends heightwise of the last at the edge of the insole, such as might tend to relax the tightness of the lasting along the insole As illustrated, the clamping pressure is confined to that portion of the margin of the upper materials that actually overles the bottom face of the insole.

Preferably the metal bushing 24, which extends inwardly from the bottom face of the last, will be exteriorly threaded, as illustrated, to adapt it to be screwed into the last. In order to lock this bushing from turning in4 response to the turning of the screw 20, the outer end of the bushing is so formed as to have at opposite sides straight edge faces one of which is seen at 28 (Fig. 6), and to co-operate with these edge faces in holding the bushing from turning there is secured on the bottom of the toe end of the last, by means of screws 30, a metal plate 32 having an opening therein to t the end of the bushing and thus to lock the bushing in place. It will be evident that the plate 32 not only prevents turning of the bushing but also assists-in holding it against the pull of the screw 20 thereon.

portions.

If desired, a clamp member o1 the form shown in Fig. 5 may be used, this member comprising two opposite halves or side portions 34 hinged together by a pivot stud 36 so that the two portions may be adjusted laterally of the shoe for shoes of different sizes. It will be understood that, except for this provision for adjustment, this form of clamp member will *be used in all respects in the same way as the member 18 shown in Figs. 2, 3 and 4.

While the invention has been described above with particular reference tothe lasting of the toe, it is contemplated that, if desired, the heel end of the upper materials will be treated in a similar manner, and such treatment of that portion of the materials is illustrated in Fig. 1. For this purpose there will be `utilized a suitably formed clamping plate 38 of the same general character as that hereinbefore described for use at the toe, together with a screw 40 extending through a hole in the heel end of the insole into a threaded bushing in the heel end of the last. If desired, cement may be utilized to cause the margin of the heel end portion of the upper materials to adhere to the insole under the clamping pressure. 'I'he heel end may thus be lasted while the shoe is in the bed lasting machine, either before or after the toe end is lasted. Fig. 1 shows a portion of the clamping plate 38 broken away to indicate the condition of the margin of the upper after treatment by the clamping pressure. It will be understood that the heel-clamping plate 38 as well as the toe-clamping plate 18 will remain on the shoe after the shoe has been removed from the lasting machine until the margin of the upper materials has set in its lasted position.

From the foregoing description it will be seen that there is produced by the use of this invention a shoe which is entirely free from lasting fastenings in the insole at one and it may be both of its end portions, and if the upper materials are secured to the insole in the manner herein illustrated in the side lasting of the shoe, the shoe is also free from any lasting fastenings on the inner face of the insole along its opposite side 'I'he lasted shoe, moreover, is in such condition that not only is no trimming needed at the toe preparatory to the laying of the outsole, but the bottom face of the toe is in a flatter and generally more satisfactory condition for the reception of the outsole than where it is lasted with tacks and thereafter trimmed. A similarly desirable condition is also present at the heel end of the shoe when that end is subjected to th treatment described.

. the United States is:-

1. .That improvement in methods Vof making lshoes which consists in lasting the margin of .70

upper materials about an end, of a last inwardly over an insole on the last and then holding said margin in an inwardly bent condition by engaging it vadjacent to the edge of the shoe bottom, while thus holding the marginof the upper materials applying in continuous engagement therewith 'round the end of the shoe bottom from a. location substantially over the edge of the insole inwardly a clamping device portable with the shoe and last, pressing the margin of the materials forcibly against the insole in a direction toward the bottom face of the last by said clamping device, securing said device in clamping position by means that presses it toward the bottom of the last and maintaining the pressure thus applied until the margin of the upper materials has substantially set in lasted position, and thereafter releasing the margin from the clamping pressure and proceeding with the manufacture of the shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the margin of upper materials about an end of a last inwardly over the bottom face of an insole on the last in substantially parallel relation to the last bottom, then utilizing in continuous engagement with the margin of the upper materials round the end of the shoe bottom a clamping device portable with the shoe and last to press the margin of the materials forcibly upon the bottom face of the insole in a flat condition over at least the greater portion of the width of said margin, securing said device in clamping relationl to the bottom of the last after thus utilizing it to press the materials upon the insole and maintaining the pressure thus applied until the margin of the upper materials has substantially set in lasted position', and thereafter releasing the margin from the clamping pressure, applying an outsole over the insole and securing the outsole directly to the margin of the upper.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the margin of upper materials about the toe end of a last inwardly over the bottom face' of an insole on the last in substantially parallel relation to the last bottom by the use of toe-embracing wipers in a lasting machine, then by the use of said wipers in engagement with the. margin of the upper materials adjacent to the edge of the shoe bottom holding said margin in an inwardly bent condition, while the margin is thus held applying in substantially continuous engagement therewith round the end of the shoe bottom inside of the edges of the wipers a clamping device portable with the shoe and last and by the action of said clamping device pressing the margin of the upper materials forcibly against the bottom face of the insole in a at condition from a location substantially over the edge of the insole inwardly, then securing said device in clamping relation to the bottom of the last and maintaining the pressure thus applied until the margin of the upper materials has substantially set in lasted position,

and thereafter releasing the margin from the clamping pressure, applying an outsole over the insole and securing the outsole directly to the margin of the upper.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes having in an end portion of the upper materials an end stiflener of a type adapted to be shaped by lasting pressure, which consists in working the margin of said end portion of the upper materials including the stiffener into lasted position over the bottom of a last, then utilizing in engagement with the margin of the upper materials, at least substantially as far outward as the edge of the insole, a device portable with the shoe and last to press said margin toward the bottom face of the last, then securing said the pressure thus applied until the upperl materials including the stiffener have substantially set in lasted position, and thereafter releasing the margin from the clamping pressure and proceeding with the manufacture of the shoe.

5. 'Ihat improvement in methods of making shoes having in the toe end portion of the upper materials a box toe stiffener of a type adapted to be shaped by lasting pressure, which consists in working the margin of said toe portion of the upper materials including the stiiener into lasted position over the bottom face of an insole on a last, in substantially parallel relation to the last bottom, then applying in continuous engagement with the margin of the upper materials round the toe a device portable with the shoe and last and utilizing said device to press said margin iiat upon the bottom face of the insole throughout.

at least the greater portion of the width of said margin, then securing said device in clamping relatiorfto the bottom of the last and maintaining the pressure thus applied until the upper materials including the stiener have substantially set in lasted position, and thereafter releasing the margin lfrom the clamping pressure, applying an outsole and securing it directly to the margin of the upper. l

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes having box toes, which consists in working the margin of the toe end portion of upper materials, including cementitious box toe stiiening material, into lasted position upon an insole on a last, utilizing a clamping device portable with the shoe and last to press the margin of the upper materials upon the insole continuously all around the toe in a direction transverse to the bottom face of the insole at least substantially as far outward as the edge of the insole, then securing said device in clamping position by means that presses it toward the bottom of the last and maintaining the pressure thus applied until the stiiening material has substantially set, and thereafter releasing the margin from the clamping pressure and proceeding with the manufacture of the shoe.

7. That improvement in methods of making shoes having box toes, which consists in working material, into lasted position upon an insole on a last in substantially parallel relation to the last bottom, applying to the margin of the upper materials a clamping device portable with the shoe and last and by clamping pressure in a direction transverse to the bottom face of the last all around the toe forcing the stiffening material in said margin against that portion of the insole adjacent thereto to cause the upper materials to adhere to the insole, then securing said device to the shoe and maintaining said clamping pressure substantially undiminished until the stiffe'ning material has substantially set, and then releasing the margin from said pressure and proceeding with the manufacture of the shoe.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes having box toes, which consists in working the margin of the toe end portion of upper materials, including cementitious box toe stiiening material, into lasted position upon the bottom face of an insole on a last in substantially parallel relation to the last bottom, then applying a clamping device portable with the shoe and last to the margin of the upper vmaterials and by the action of said device pressing said margin allA around the toe iiat upon the bottom face of the insole while forcing the stiffening material in said margin against the insole to cause the upper materials to adhere to the insole, then securing,

said clamping device to the shoe and maintaining the clamping 4pressure until the stiifening material has substantially set, and 'thereafter releasing the margin from said pressure, applying an outsole and securing it directly to the margin of the upper;

9. That improvement in methodsl of making v vshoes having box toes, which consists in working with said margin all around the toe from its inner l edge outward substantiallyas far only as the edge of'the insole and pressing said margin flat upon the insole, then securing said clamp in pressureapplying relation to said margin and to the bottom of the last and maintaining the pressure until the stiiening material has substantially set, and thereafter removing4 the clamp, applying an outsole and securing it directly to the margin of the upper.

10. 'I'hat improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the margin of upper materials about an end of a last inwardly over the bottom face of an insole on the'last, utilizing in continuous engagement with said margin, only substantially as far outward as the edge of the insole, a clamping device portable with the shoe and last to press said margin upon the bottom face of the insole, then securing said clamping device in clamping position by means that presses it toward the bottom of the last and maintaining the pressure thus applied until said margin has substantially set in lasted position, and thereafter releasing the margin from the clamping pressure and proceeding with the manufacture of the shoe.

11. That improvement in' methods of lasting shoes which consists in wiping the margin 'of upper materials about an end of a last inwardly over an insole on the last by the use of end-embracing wipers in a lasting machine, then applying in engagement with the margin of the upper materials round the end of the shoebottom a clamping device portable with the shoe and last and by the use of said Wipers pressing the clamping device against the margin of the upper materials toward the bottom face of the last, thereafter securing said clamping device in clamping position by means which also presses it toward the bottom of the last, and then removing the shoe from the lasting machine with the clamping device thus secured in clamping position.

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes of the type having an outsole secured directly upon the margin of the upper lying paraluse of fastenings in the insole, and thereafter ap plying an outsole upon the lasted-margin of the upper and securing it.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes of the through-and-through sewed type` which consists in securing the margin of upper materials in lasted position on the bottom face of an insole along portions at leastof the opposite sides of a shoe by metallic fastenings anchored in the body of the insole without penetrating its inner face, working the margin of the upper materials about an Aend ofthe shoe into lasted position upon the bottom face of the insole and holding said margin in lasted position under pressure until it has set sumciently to maintain the end portion of the upper materials in lasted position without the use of fastenings in the insole, and thereafter applying anl outsole over the insole and securing it to the insole by through-andthrough stitches.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes of the type having an outsole secured directly upon the margin of the upper lying parallel to the shoe bottom over an insole, which consists in securing the margin of upper materials in lasted position on the bottom face of an insole along portions at least of the opposite sides of a shoe by metallic fastenings anchored in the body of the insole without penetrating its inner face, working the margin of an end portion ofthe upper materials into lasted position upon the bottom face of the insole and securing the margin in lasted position only by the use of cementitious material, and thereafter applying an outsole upon the lasted margin of the upper and securing it.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes of the through-andl-through sewed type 'which consists in securing the margin of upper materials in lasted position on the bottom face of an insole along the opposite sides of a shoe by metallic fastenings anchored in the body of the insole without penetrating its inner face', lasting the toe and heel ends of the shoe and holding the margin of the upper materials in those locations in lasted position under pressure until said margin has set sufficiently to remain in lasted position without the use of fastenings in the insole, and thereafter applying an outsole over the insole and securing it to the insole by through-andthrough stitches.

16. That improvement in methods of making shoes of the through-and-through sewed type ywhich consists in securing the margin of upper materials in lasted position on the bottom face of an insole along the opposite sides of a shoe by staples curved to anchor them in the body of the insole without penetrating its innerface, working the margin of the toe portion of the upper materials into lasted position on the insole and securing the margin in lasted position only by the use of cementitious material, and thereafter applying an outsole over the insole and securing it to the insole by through-and-through stitches.

17. A shoe having an outsole secured to an insole by through-and-through stitches, said shoe being provided with a plurality of separate lasting fastenings securing the upper permanently to the insole along the shank and ball portions of the shoe and having both its toe and heel end portions free from lasting fastenings in the insole.

A18. AV-shoe having an outsole secured directly upon the margin of the upper lying parallel to the shoe bottom over an insole, said shoe being provided along its sides with metallic lasting-fastenings securing the upper to the insole and anchored in the body of the insole without penetrating its inner face and having an end portion thereof free from lasting fastenings in the insole.

19. A shoe having an outsole secured to an insole by through-and-through stitches, saidshoe being provided along its shank and ball portions with lasting staples securing the upper .to the lnsole with their legs curved to anchor them in the body of the insole without penetrating its inner face and having its toe portion lfree from lasting fastenings in the insole.

20. A shoe having an outsole secured to an insole by through-and-through stitches, said shoe being provided along its opposite side portions with lasting staples securing the upper to the insole with their legs curved to anchor them in the body of the insole without penetrating its inner face and having the toe and heel end portions of its upper secured to the insole by cementitious material without lasting fastenings in the insole.

21. A lasted shoe of the type in which an outsole is secured directly upon the margin of the upper lying parallel to the shoe bottom over an insole,

having its upper along portions at least of the lic lasting fastenings so applied as not to penetrate to the inner face of the insole and having the toe portion of its upper held in lasted position prior to the attachment of the outsole only by box toe stiflening material at its margin.

23. A lasted shoe of the through-and-through sewed type having its upper along the shank and ball portions of the shoe held in lasted position by metallic lasting fastenings so applied as not to penetrate to the inner face of the insole and having both the toe and heel end portions of its upper held in lasted position prior to the attachment of the outsole only by cementitious material.

24. A lasted shoe of the type in which an outsole is secured directly upon the margin of the upper lying parallel to the shoe bottom over an insole, having its upper along the shank portion of the shoe held in lasted position by lasting staples curved to anchor them in the body of the insole without penetrating the inner face of the insole and having an end portion of its upper held in lasted position only by cementitious material.

25. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in wiping the margin of an upper about an end of a last inwardly over an insole on the last into substantially parallel relation to the bottom of the last by the use of endembracing wipers of a lasting machine, applying over the end portion of the shoe bottom a clamping device portable with the shoe and last and by use of the wipers pressing said device upon the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last, fastening said clamping device under the pressure of the wipers in such manner as to 'prevent any substantial pressure-relaxing moveshoes of the type in which the margin of the toe 4portion of the upper is fastened by cement in parallel relation to the last bottom upon the outer face of an insole, which consists in wiping the margin of the toe portion of the upper inwardly into that relation to the insole upon a last by the use of toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine and also by use of the wipers pressing upon said margin in-a direction toward the bottom face of the last a clamping device portable with the shoe and last, fastening said clamping device under the pressure of the wipers in such manner as to .prevent any substantial pressure-relaxing movement of any portion of the device heightwise of the shoe, removing the shoe from the lasting machine with the clamping device thus attached thereto, and after the cement has substantially set removing'said device from the shoe.

27. That improvement in methods of fastening the margin of the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over an insole on a last in substantially parallel relation to the bottom of the last which consists in pressing upon the margin of the upper in that relation to the last in adirection toward the bottom face of the last a clamping device portable with the shoe and last, and while holding said clamping device thus'under pressure fastening it to the last through the insole in such manner as to prevent any substantial pressure-relaxing movement of any portion of the device heightwise of the shoe when wipers, maintaining said member in pressure-.-

applying relation tothe upper until after the upper has-substantially set" in lasted position, and then releasing the upper from the pressure of said member. 1 f

29. That improvement in methods of making shoes in which an end portion of the upper is secured in lasted position by cement, which consists in wiping the marginal portion of the upper about an end of a last inwardly over an insolev into substantially parallel relation to the bottom of the last by the use of wipers, thereafter applying a pressing member over the end portion of the shoe bottom and pressing said member upon the upper in a direction heightwise of 'the shoe by the wipers, maintaining said member in position to hold the upper under substantially the full pressure thusapplied until after the cement has substantially set, and then releasing the upper from.

the pressure of said member.

30. That improvement in methods of making shoes in which an end portion of the upper is secured in lasted position by cement, which consists in wiping the marginal portion of the upper about an end of a last inwardly over an insole into. substantially parallel relation to the bottom of the last by the use of wipers, thereafter applying over the end portion of the shoe bottom a pressing member extending farther inwardly from the edge of the shoe bottom than the wipers and pressing said member upon the upper in a direction heightwise of the shoe by the wipers, maintion to the upper until after the cementhas substantially set, and then releasing the upper from the pressure of said member.

31. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in wiping the marginal portion of an upper about an end of a last inwardly over an insole into substantialy parallel relation to the bottom of the last by the use of wipers, thereafter applying over the end portion of the shoe bottom a pressing member extending farther inwardly over the shoe bottom than the wipers and farther inwardly than the edge of the upper and pressing said member upon the upper in a direction heightwise of the shoe by the wipers, maintaining said memberin pressure-applying relation to the upper until after the upper has substantially set in lasted position, and then releasing the upper from the pressure of said member.

32. That improvement' in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an upper about an end of a lastinwardly over an insole on the last, applying a pressing member over the end portion of the shoe bottom and pressing it upon the marginal portion of the upper in a direction heightwise of the last, then fastening said member to the last through the insole by means so applied as to maintain clamping pressure upon that face'of the member which is on the opposite .side thereof from the bottom of the last, and after the upper has substantially set in lasted positon removing said member from the shoe.

taining said member in pressure-applying rela- I' 33. That improvement in methodsof making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an upper labout an end of a last inwardly over an insole on the last, applying a clamping device overv the upper on the end portion of the shoe bottom, fastening said .device to the4v last through the insole farther inwardly from the edge of the shoe bottom than the marginal portion ofthe upper and in such manner as to 'hold it pressed against the .upperin a direction sition over an insole on a last which consists in applying over the-marginal. portion of the upper an upper-holding device. substantially rigid against bending strains heightwise of the last,

-and fastening said device to the last through the insole farther inwardlyrfrom the edge of the shoe bottom than that portion of the device that engages the upper. 1

35. That improvement in methods of holding the margin of an end portion of an upper in lasted position over an insole on .a last which consists in applying over the margin of the .upper an upper-holding device engaging -the margin from the inner edge thereof substantially as far outward as the edge of the insole in all locations around the end of the shoe bottom, and fastening said device to the last through the lnsole by fastening means applied in clamping relation to that face of the device which is on the opposite side thereof from the bottom of the last.

' CHARLES F. PYiu.

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