US1986982A - Adjustable pattern - Google Patents

Description

4 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR Aa aaffia efi BY ATTORNEYS Jan. 8, 1935.

A. ROZEK ADJUSTABLE PATTERN Filed May '7. 1931 WWW W Jan. 8, 1935. A, ROZEK 1,986,982

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN Filed May '7, 1931 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 26 INVENTOR .15 34 Algal yd jfa e/i' ATTORNEYS Jan. 8, 1935. A. ROZEK ADJUSTABLE PATTERN Filed May '7, 1951 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 INV ENTOR "IllllllllI/r llrlplllll .1-

ATTORNEYS Jan. 8, 1935. A. ROZEK ADJUSTABLE PATTERN Filed May 7, 1951 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 EEI ATTORNEYS Patented Jan. 8, 1935 j Es" PATENT :oF-ricE ADJUSTABLE :PATTERN In. makinga garment which will properly it a person, iit has been customary to take certain measurements of the person; to be. fitted, cut. pate.

ternsin accordance with these measurements,

* cut the material, in accordance with the patterns, V assemble the parts infifreadilydetachable form,

and then make a; trial fit of the partly fi-nished garment on the person before it is completed. lin makin this trial fit; thevarious sections of thegarr-nent, must be readjusted to the desired relativepositions. This readjustment sometimes makes it: necessary to take the sections entirelyapart and reassemble them'on the person, thereby resulting vina loss oftime, and exhaustingthe patience of the customer. l i

Qneobject of l the presentiinvention is to proh vide an adjustable garmentpattern which is adapted to be conveniently applied tol-the person to be fitted, and 1 which is provided I with means whereby the: marginal or peripheralyeutline may be? altered o l i s il at an se ec i $9 1M thereof to conform withthe contoun of thef per-x sonbeing fitt d. This pattern tioned andfi-tted garment withou requiring the;

an im asi em mse atr t finished garment on the person fills-ra r w it n it it is intended. j

The sections constituting myl improved pat-n tern are of afiXible nature, andare provided with'Y-means wherebyflthe adjoining; sectionsgot the pattern may be 'detajchably}connected; )ne

advantageous type of fasteningfmeans which may be provided is the so-called Phoolgless fastenerj a zipper which mi she t en a tachment or detachmentlof the ,various sectionsfiof the garment pattern.,- a n Theconfignration of the" marginalor periph eral outlines of-the pattern sections along: which the garment material :is: to be out are controlled interlaced"membersdn the form; Df' flBXibIBT strips or tapes connected to the portions ofvthe" patterns adjoining these outlines. These members are arranged to permit adjustment ofiany desired part' of theseperipheral portions "by the manipulation of these members. *By such 'a'djustments, thepat'tern sections-may be altered to conformwith t-hegeneral contour of the person. being fitted. The.pattjernsectionsmay be similarly provided with lacing members jfor efiecting adjustments of such details as the collaror neck, the bust portion and thelike orif. desired. I the salient points oithesedetailsmaylbetdeter mayt be accurately adjusted so as to: permitthe cutting ,of the material therefro-in to produce a pc arelprov 'ned by auxiliary pattern sections extensibly oonnectedto the mainpattern sections.-

the accompanying drawingsthere is shown for the purpose of illustration, one formcrnbodw' ing; the presentinvention, andin which; j t Fig; 1 is a perspective of thejiront secticnpf a pattern ion a womans coat: as applied tothe per SOnzto be fitted. h i

@E'ig, 2 is a 'perspectiveof the back section of the coat patternof Figtl, 3 1 i 3 is a plan view ofthe front left section otthe pattern shown in- FigVlQ i 1 Fig. 4 is a plan viewofg thereanleftsection of the pattern. M t j i 1 ,Figs. 5, 6, 7 8 and a are sections taken on lines 5+6, Ji -7 3- 8, and- 9, 9' respectively, r Fig 3. 1

t 1 Fig, L10 shows theupper: of i j 4 is? gneaterdet il, and on a larger scale Figs Hand 12 are sections taken on line 11-11 and 12-12 respective1y,of- 10, and i sidefront section sections 0 and D respectively. Suitable meansl fdedjforlfdetachably connecting these patternsections together. One form of fastening means which may be advantageously used is the soecalled' zipper] or ,hookless .fastene'rsf. The! sectionAdsconnected to the section Ciby means:

dtlsuch "a fastening arrangement 10,; and the sectiongBi'is connected to; the section D by a simiy 1ar'arrangeinent.11,the two rear sections amp being connected together by the zipper. fasteners.

12. t By means of thisflarran'gement the (various pattern sections may heiconnected to form an assembled ,pattern or. draft. garment which is ape t details of the plied to. the person to! be fitted. This pattern can then be adjusted according to the contours of the person, and thereafterthe constituent sec nonsmay be. separatedto'jpermit th fi uttingoii a paper pattern or; the garment material directly therefrom. j j i In order; to provide means whereby the width ofth'e" patternsectionsat any selective point may be variedor adjusted r'tne configu ationof, thei outlineslmodified the portions Olin-the sections. to be' adjusted having ,Lconnected thereto nemernemb'e'r's s'irhich are islidably secured together s i erev ewed;19ers; es fi a snew: a

' way, each lacing member isguided underneath bers are arranged so that the sections may be altered at any selective point by manipulation of the corresponding lacing members.

In Figs. 4, and 13, there is shown a rear section D including two side strips '13 and 14 made of cloth or other suitable flexible material, and extending longitudinallyof the pattern section. The outer edges of these strips 13 and 14 constitute the seam edges along which the garment material is to be cut, and are each provided with a series of-hookl'ess fastening elements 17 and 18 respectively, by means of which this pattern section D may be connected to the adjoining sections CandB.

For adjusting the outline of the main portion of the pattern section, the strip 13 has connected thereto a series of spaced transversely extending flexible lacing members 20. 'The'free' ends-of these lacing members 20 are connected to a 'longitudinally extending tape 21 which serves to facilitate thegrasping'of these ends of said members. The strip 14 has similarly associated therewith a series oftransversely extending spaced flexible lacing members 22, each having one end stitched or otherwise connected thereto. The other ends are connected together by a longitudinally extending tape or band 23 which serves as a means for grasping these latter ends of the'members- 5 The strips 13 and 14 have stitched or otherwise connected thereto tapes or bands 24 and 25 which serve as graspable members and which are looped over the lacing members 22 and 20 respectively so as not to interfere with'the relative slidable movement of these lacing members. The lacing members 20 and 22 are arranged alternately with the members of-one series disposed in the space between successive members of the other series. The lacingmembers 20 and 22 are advantageously in ribbon form and are suliiciently close together to prevent the forming, of large openings or gaps on these pattern sections.

The two series of lacing members are guided and slidably secured together by suitable 'guide strips andloops, For this purpose, there is-provided a pair of flexible foundationstrips 26jand 27 which are similar to'and disposed between the strips 13 and 14;,and which extend longitudinally/with respect to the pattern section. Extending along the'strip 26 are four guide tapes or ribbons 28, 29, 3'0 and 3lstitched or otherwise connected to said stripat intervals so as to provide loops between the stitches under'which the lacing members 20 and 22 are guidedandinterlaced. The loops in the strip28 are aligned with the loops in the strip 50 and arranged in staggered relation with v the loops'formed in the tapes 29 and 31. In this a loop of one guide tape and over the stitched portion of an adjoining tape.

The strip 27 is also 'providedwith tapes 28',

29, 30' and 31' similar to the tapes 28, 29, 3O

' and 31, and similarly interlaced with the lacing members 20 and 22 so as t'oslidably secure said members together. 1 V

In order to guide the lacing members 22 in ap-' position tofthe side strip 13 and prevent the fiap ping of the graspable ends of these members, there is provided a guide strip 32 which is sewed or therewise connected to said strip 13 atintervals so as to create loops through which these lacing 'memberspass, Similarly, the strip 14 is provided 'withaguide strip33 which serves to hold the lac ing members 20 in apposition to'said strip 14.

In adjusting the main portion of the pattern section D, when it is desired, for instance, to nar-'-' I and 22 in adjusted position,

When it is desired to widen the pattern section D at any selective point, the corresponding por- I tions of the bands 24 and 25 are pulled apart so as to move the strips 13 and 14 away from each other.v When the strips 13 and 14 are spread apart as a result of this operation, the portion of the'lacing members 20 and 22 disposed between these strips and the foundation strips 26 and 27 become loose and baggy. In order to obviate this condition, it is desirable to move the strips 26 and 27 so as to decrease the space between these strips'andv the side strips 13 and 14. For that purpose, each of the strips 26 and 2'7 has connected thereto holding members in the form ofbands 34 and 35, each band 34 being advantageously sewed along one edge thereof to the loops of the tape 28 so that said band 34 may be grasped to move the strips 26 or 27 to the left as shown in Fig. 13. 'Theba'nds 35 are similarly sewed onto the tapes 31 to facilitate the operation of moving either strip 26 or 27 to the right as viewed in Fig.

13. These two bands 34 and 35 are looped over' the lacing members 20 and 22 so as notto interfere with the relative slidable movement of these lacing members. If desired, one such band'only may be provided for each foundation strip 26 and 27, and may be used to'efiect the movement of these strips in either direction.

In order to maintain the lacing members 20 and 22 in adjusted position, the tapes 28, 29, 30 and 31 are very tautly sewed toor attached to the strips 26 and 27.- "Tlie tautness of these tapes serves to frictionally' hold the lacing members 20 and 22 in adjusted position. -Inorder, however, to further aid in the frictional hold of these lacing members 20 ad 22, it bers and th tapes 28, 29,30 and '31have a coarse or fluted surface. Forthat purpose, it is advantageous touse grosg'r'ain ribbon therefor. To further insure the holding of the lacing members 20 Y I, these'members may be pinned on to the foundation strips of the pattern after being adjusted to the desired position.

To providemeans for adjusting the detail portions of the pattern section D, the upper portion thereof is provided withfa slit 36, both sides of which are provided with hookless fastening ele-' ments cooperating witlfa slider 36a'by means of which said slit may be closed. The purpose of this slit is to permit the portion of the pattern on both sides thereof to lie in a plane when the garment material or pattern is being cut therefrom, irrespective-of thecurvature of this portionof the pattern section when in fitted position.

The intermediate shoulder portion of the pattern section D is provided with a lacing arrange-, ment which permits of .the adjustment of this portion in accordance with-the curvature of the shoulder of the person being filled. This lacing arrangement serves to alter thedistance between the edges of theslit 36 andthe right hand edge along the fastening elements 17, and takes the form of a series of lacing members 37, one set of corresponding ends of which aresewed or otherstrip 13; the other corresponding ends of these is advantageous that these mem rangement, the pattern section D maybe adjuste messeslacing members being connected together by a tape memberfiiiy Cooperating with this lacing series; is another lacing series consisting of a pluralityt of; lacing members disposed in stagger relationship, with. thelacing members 37 and having; one set of corresponding ends thereof sewed ior otherwise connected to the upper porti n o f the strip 27, the other corresponding ends being connected together by the uppervportion ofthe tape2 4. By means or" this auxiliary ared to conform with the curvature ortheshoulder of theperson beingtfitted r In order toprovide forthe adjus tment of the shoulder strap portion of the pattern section D,

the upper portion of the pattern section Dtov sewed thereon a piece of flexible material 7 445.

This material is advantageouslyisewed to. the

strip 26 at intervals. to provide loops 4'1. The

' upper portion, of the pattern section Dto the right ofthe'slit 36 (Fig. 10) is similarly provided with a'f piece of flexible material 48 stitched to the upper portion of the strip 27 to provide .loops 50. 'Guidedin thelloops 47 islta .set of spaced sftrapslll'; and guided infthe loops "50 is a similar series of spaced straps 52; One set of corresponding ends of these straps 51 and 52 areconnected together by means or atapemernber 53 The opposite set. or. ends of the straps 51 are connected together by means of a tapemember 54 which extends beyond the aggregate width Eh? pat ern section D to the corresponding shoulf der"strapof the pattern'Lsection B hereinafter referred to. 40

I ca the pattern section D, except that three founda- T PPQ e tities the pa e are. similarly connected togetlier "by means of a tape member 57; This tapefmember 511s provided with means whereby it maybe connected to thetape' mem ber 54,]this means advanta'geonsly taking the form of clasp members 53 cooperating with clasp members 50 on the tape member 54. By means of this arrangement, the

in accorda e h the desired adjustment of the shoulderstrap por-j tion or the'patterngy'lhese straps 51 and 52 are advantageously madeo'f the 'same material'as the IacingmembersZQ and 22.

- In'order toprovide means for determining the:

salient points of the collanor neck measurements,

the upper portion -of'"thej strip ls has attached thereto fajpiece of flexible material 61 which is sewedontoysaidstrip along the sides thereof to provide-apassagein which is slidably disposed a tab '62, the upper end of which terminates in a collar or neck section 63. The position of this collar may be adjusted vertically to conform with the neckof the person being fitted; and may then be pinned adjusted position. a The "front pattern-section B '(FigsiB, 5 and 6) has the main portion thereof provided with a r V a to the arm hole is provided witha lacing arrangelacing arrangement whichis somewhat similar to the lacing arrangement of the main portion of tion strips are provided. 'This pattern section B has twoside'sstrips 65 and66 made of flexible materialyand extending longitudinallywith re- SDfiGilwtQ: the pattern section. .The edges of these strips constitute; the i line. along which; the i armentmat rial; is to be eutnth st .5 b n provided- .w th easements i i-{firmn ss f st in elements fi'l by means of which thisedge may be attached to the seam edge of the strip 151,; For

effecting this attachmentof thetwo sections B and D therastening element 67 have slidably, mounted thereof aslider 68,

7 Thestrip 65 has associatedltherewith a series of transversely extending flexible lacing mem bers 70 arranged in grid fashion and having; one

set Lof corresponding ends thereof stitched or otherwise connected to said strip 65 and-joined together by a tape member 70a. The other corresponding endsof theselacing members '70 are The lacing members 'I Oand 72 arearrangedin staggered relationship similarly to the lacing members 20tand 22, and are made of the same material and slidably secured together by suit,-. able guide strips and loops. For this purpose,

there is provided three flexible foundation strips '74, 7 5 and flfiavhich are similar to the strips 26 and 2'7 of the pattern section DQand each of which has extending longitudinally therealongl four tapes '77, 78,79and; Thesetapes are stitched at intervals to provide loops for: interlacing the lacing members 70 and 72in a way similar to that already discussed with reference tottheipatternsection D. The lacing members 70 and "72 are guided in apposition to the side strips 65 and (ifijby meansof guide strips 81 and82," and each of the foundation strips 74,75 and 76 has con 'nected thereto a pair of holding members 83 and ich serve to facilitate the transverse moveme nt of: the foundation strips associated therewith; This transverse movement serves to obviate the loose and baggy conditionof'the lacing members. between the foundation strips when the two outside strips 65 and 66 have been spread apart, t 1 a t The upper portion of the pattern section B is provided with means'whereby the pattern maybe adjusted in accordancewith the contoiirof the bust of the person beingfitted. For that purpose, this upper portion ofthe pattern section B intermediate the sides thereof has a slit 90, bothsides of which are provided with hookless fastening? elements cooperating witha slider 91 by means ofllwhich s aid slit may be closed. 1 This slittperl-o mits the portion of the pattern on bothsides thereof to lie in a plane when the garment material orjpattern is being cut therefrom, irrespec tern sectionwhen in fittedposition. i

The bust portion of the pattern section nearest ment which is similar tothe upper lacing arrange: mentor the pattern section D. This lacing arrangement serves to adjust the bust portion of the pattern section B to theright oithe slit and takes the form of aseries or lacing members' tive of the curvature of tthis 'portion ofthe patends being connected together by a tape member 93;" Cooperating with this'series of lacing memhere 92-is another series of'lacing members 94 bers 92 and 94 are interlaced and slidably connected together by means of bands-96 and 97 secured at intervals to the strips 65 and 76 respectively, so as to provide loops for guiding theseinterlacing members for slidable movement.

The adjustment of the bust portion of the pattern section B nearest to the arm hole is eifected .by' meansof the lacing members 92 and 94 in a manner similar to the adjustment of the shoulder portion of the pattern section D already described. I

Thebust portion'of the pattern section B to the left of the slit 90 is provided with a lacing aru angement which consists of a series oflacing members 100, one set of' corresponding ends of which are connected to the-foundation strip '75, and joined together by a'tape member 101. The

I other set of corresponding ends of these lacing by a tape member 102 I series of lacing memberslOO is another series of members IOO are loose and connected together Cooperating with this lacingmembers 103 disposed in staggered relationshipwith the lacing'members 100, and having one set of corresponding'ends thereof connected to the upper portion of the side strip 66, and joined together by a tape member 104. The other set of corresponding ends of these lacing members 103 are loose and connected together bya tape member 105; Both series of lacing members 100 and 103 are disposed in staggered relationship with each other, and slidably connected together bym'eans of the bands 77, 78, '79 and arranged with reference to these lacing members in a man n'er similar to their arrangement with the lacing members 70 and 72 in the main portion of the pattern section. These series of lacing members are also guided in apposition to the strips 68 and 75 by means of the band 31, and a band 106 sewed to the foundation strip 76. This laoing'arrange- .ment serves to effect the adjustment of the bust portion of the pattern section B to the left of the slit in a manner similar to the adjustment of.

the main portion of the pattern section. I e

In order to provide for the adjustment of the shoulder strap portion of the pattern section B to conform with the adjustment of the shoulder strap portion of the pattern section D, the upper ends of the strips 65 and 76 have connected thereto apiece of flexible material 107 which is stitched at intervals toprovide loops or guide passages 108. Slidably mounted in these guide passages 108 are a seriesof bands, 110, one corresponding ends of which are connected together by a tape member 111, the other set of corresponding ends of which are similarly connected with a tape member 112. These bands 110 may be shifted along the guide passages 108 so as-toeffect any selective adjustent. The upper edge of thetape member 112 is provided with a seriesof hoolzless fastening elements 113 adapted to cooperate with the fastening elements 55 'of the pattern section D. j

The construction of the pattern sections A and C has not been described, but it should be understood that these "sections are similar to the sections B and D respectively. After all the sections have been fastened together in the form of a draft garment and applied to the person tobe fitted, the various changeable outlines of the pattern sections are adjusted as already described. The elements of the pattern sections, after being adjusted, maybe maintainedin position by pinning. The various pattern sections are then separated from each other, and the garment material directly'cut therefrom, or, if desired, a paper pattern may be first made therefrom and the garment material cut from said paper pattern.

Having thus described my invention, what I claimas new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: l. A pattern section for garments, includinga pair of flexible strips, the outer edges of which constitute the outlines which determine the edges, of the pattern sections, a first series of lacing members arranged in grid fashion, and each hav ing one end connected to one of said stripsfor movement therewith, a second series of flexible lacing members arranged in grid fashion, and each having one endconnected to the other flexible strip, and means for slidably securing said series of lacing members together whereby the lacing members of each seriesmay be moved relatively to those of the other to move the corre sponding edge of the strips.

2, A pattern section, including a pair of fiexible side strips, the outer edges of which constitute the outlines which determine the edges of the pattern, a first series of flexible lacing members arranged in grid fashion, and having one set of corresponding ends thereof connected to one of 5 said side strips for movement therewith, av second series of flexible lacing members arranged in grid fashion and connected to the other strip for movement therewith, said second series. of lacing members being arranged in staggered relationship,

with, the lacing members of the other series, and disposed in the space between adjoining lacing members of said last mentioned series, and means for slidably securing said lacing members to gether 'wherebythedistance between theside strips at any selective point may be adjusted. 3. A pattern section, including a pair of flexible side strips," the outside edges of which constitute the outlines which determine the edges of the. garment sections, .a first series of flexible lacing members in ribbon form and arranged in grid fashion, .said lacing members having one set of corresponding ends thereof connected to one of said side stripsfor. movement therewith, a second series of flexible lacing members arranged in grid fashion and connected to the other strip for movement therewith, said second series of lacing memhere being arranged in staggered relationship with respect to the lacing members of the other series, and disposed in the space between adjoining lacing members of said last mentioned series,

the spaces between adjoining members of one series being substantially as wide as the width of the lacing members of the other series, whereby,

the creation of large openings or gaps in the pattern section is obviated, and means for slidably securing said lacing members together whereby the distance between the side strips at any selective point may be adjusted, said last mentioned means including a foundation strip disposed-intermediate said side strips and extending longitudinally with respect to the pattern section, and a plurality of flexible guide members connected to said foundation strip and extending longitudinally therealong, said members forming, guide. loops arranged in staggered relationship with the loops of adjoining'interlacing members and serving to guide said lacing members therethrough.

4. A garment pattern, including a pair of side strips and two series of laces, the laces of one series being securedto one strip, and the laces of the other series being secured to the other strip, the laces of each series being spaced apart and arranged alternately with those of the other series,

an intermediate strip, and means on said intermediate strip for guiding said laces for slidable movement.

5. A garment pattern, including a pair of side strips and two series of laces, the laces of one series being secured to one strip,and the laces of the other series being securedto the other strip, the' laces of each series being spaced apart and arranged alternately with those of the other see ries, means for guidingsaid laces for slidable movement, and tapes connecting together the slidable ends of each series whereby upon pull? ing said tapes apart at any point the patternis narrowed at said point. r

6. A pattern section including a pair of flexible peripheral side strips extending longitudinally in the lower portion thereof, means including a plurality of closely adjoining, flexible lacing members connected to said strips for adjusting the distance between, said strips at any selective horizontal region, the upper portion of said section being provided with a slit open at its upper end and extending longitudinally downwardly, whereby said upper portion of saidsection may be developed ,into plane form after being adjusted to substantially conform with the curvature of the person being fitted, and means including two sets of closely adjoining, flexible lacing members on opposite sides of said slit for adjusting theperipheral outlines of the two upper sections formed on" opposite sides of said slit.

'7. A pattern section for garments, including a strip, the outer edge of which determines one outline of the garment section, a series of flexible lacing members arranged in grid fashion and each having one end thereof connected to said strip for movement therewith, a foundation strip spaced from said first mentioned strip, and guide loops on said foundation strip for guiding said lacing members for slidable movement with respect to said foundation strip, said loops being sufiiciently small to frictionally hold said lacing members in adjusted position, and said lacing members having coarse or fluted surfaces to increase the frictional engagement between said guide loops and said lacingrmembers.

8. A garment pattern having an adjustable main body portion, means foradjusting the peripheral side outlines of said body portion in accordance with the garment fitting measurements of a person, and a shoulder section including a pair of transverselyspaced tape members extend' ing laterally of the pattern and connected together by a series of flexible bandsarranged in grid fashion and extending lengthwise of the pattern, the upper portion of the pattern being provided'with a pluralityof adjoining loops for [receiving said bands, and for guiding them for slidable" movement.

9. A garment pattern having an adjustable main body portion and a shoulder section, including a pair of transversely spacedtape members extending laterally of the pattern and connected together by a series of flexible bands arranged in grid fashion and extending lengthwise of the pattern,-ancl means for guiding said bands for slidable movement lengthwise or said pattern.

' 10. A garment pattern having, an adjustable main body portion and a shoulder section, including a piece of flexible material, a pair of transfiU

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