US1975205A - Double stand-up collar - Google Patents

Double stand-up collar Download PDF

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Publication number
US1975205A
US1975205A US671584A US67158433A US1975205A US 1975205 A US1975205 A US 1975205A US 671584 A US671584 A US 671584A US 67158433 A US67158433 A US 67158433A US 1975205 A US1975205 A US 1975205A
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United States
Prior art keywords
collar
cut
textile material
warp
double stand
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Expired - Lifetime
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US671584A
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Frankfurther Paul
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Individual
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Individual
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00Collars

Definitions

  • the lower part of the double collar was cut in the usual manner, while the upper part of the collar was not cut in a straight line in the direction of the warp, but diagonally to the junction of the warp and weft. This was done with the object of preventing the upper part of the collar from becoming displaced during washing and of ensuring the existence of a hollow space between the upper and lower parts of the collar after ironing of the collar. ⁇
  • This method of making collars was, however, not satisfactory in practice, rst of all because the diagonally cut upper part of the collar had not a good appearance, and secondly because the diagonal cutting involved the use of additional material. Moreover, diagonal cutting is a difficult operation to perform, and finally after the collar had been ironed there remained so large a space between the outer part and the inner part of the collar that the tie fell out.
  • the lower part of the collar is cut, as before, in a straight line in the direction of the warp, but the upper part of the collar is cut in a straight line in the direction of the whp.
  • the upper part of the collar is cut in a straight line in the direction of the whp.
  • This method of manufacture prevents the ugly appearance of the diagonally cut textile material, and, further, less material is used than when the diagonal cutting method is employed, and nally, after the collar has been ironed, the upper and lower parts of the collar are neither toc close together nor too far apart.
  • the eiiect is further considerably improved if the layers of textile material from which the outer part of the collar are made, are shrunk before being worked.
  • Figure l is a diagrammatic View showing a known method of cutting out the upper and the lower collar portions at the right and the lefthand sides, respectively,
  • Fig. 2 is a similar view showing another known method
  • Fig. 3 is a similar view showing the method I according to the present invention, "I5
  • Fig. 4 is a plan view of a collar laid out at
  • Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the collar in folded position ready for use.
  • a and b are pieces of textile material from which the upper part c and the lower part d of the collar are to be cut.
  • the pieces of textile material are shown in the drawing, the horizontally directed arrow x indicating the course of the weft threads, and the vertically directed arrow y indicating the course of the warp'5 threads.
  • the upper collar portions c and also the lower collar portions d are both cut in known manner in the direction of the warp. y
  • Fig. 2 shows a mode of cutting which cannot be employed in practice, in which the upper collar part c is cut from the piece of textile material a diagonally to the direction of the weft and warp threads. From this figure it can be seenwhat loss of material is involved.
  • the lower collar parts d' are cut from the strip of textile material b in the same manner as in Fig. 1, in the direction of the warp threads.
  • Fig. 3 explains the new method of manufacturing double stand-up collars according to this invention. According to this method from the piece of textile material a the upper collar parts c are cut in the direction of the weft threads, and from the piece of material b the lower collar parts d" are cut in the direction of the warp threads.
  • Figs. 4 and 5 show in different positions the upper collar part c and the lower collar part d" sewed together.
  • a method of manufacturing collars which comprises the steps of shrinking a textile material, cutting out the upper parts of the collar from said shrunk textile material in the direction parallel to the direction of the weft threads thereof, cutting out the lower parts of the collar from another and unshrunk textile material in the direction parallel to the direction of the warp threads thereof, ⁇ and sewing the upper and lower parts together to form the nished collar.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Bolts, Nuts, And Washers (AREA)

Description

Qct. 2, 1934. P. FRANKFURTHER DOUBLE STAND-UP COLLAR Filed May 17. 1935 Patented Got. 2, 1934 DOUBLE STAND-UP COLLAR Paul Frankfurther, Berlin, Germany Application May 17, 1933, Serial No. 671,584 In Germany August 18, 1931 2 Claims.
With double stand-up collars it is very dicult for the ironer to impart the correct shape to the collar after it has been washed. Each deviation from the correct shape has the eiect that when the collar is folded the upper and lower parts of the collar come so closely together that it is irnpossible to cause a tie to slide in the collar, and very often the tie is even torn. Attempts have already been made to overcome this drawback by various means.
In one construction, the lower part of the double collar was cut in the usual manner, while the upper part of the collar was not cut in a straight line in the direction of the warp, but diagonally to the junction of the warp and weft. This was done with the object of preventing the upper part of the collar from becoming displaced during washing and of ensuring the existence of a hollow space between the upper and lower parts of the collar after ironing of the collar.` This method of making collars was, however, not satisfactory in practice, rst of all because the diagonally cut upper part of the collar had not a good appearance, and secondly because the diagonal cutting involved the use of additional material. Moreover, diagonal cutting is a difficult operation to perform, and finally after the collar had been ironed there remained so large a space between the outer part and the inner part of the collar that the tie fell out.
According to the present invention, in order to overcome these Various difficulties, the lower part of the collar is cut, as before, in a straight line in the direction of the warp, but the upper part of the collar is cut in a straight line in the direction of the weit. When cutting it is preferable to place two collar patterns side by side in the width of the material. This method of manufacture prevents the ugly appearance of the diagonally cut textile material, and, further, less material is used than when the diagonal cutting method is employed, and nally, after the collar has been ironed, the upper and lower parts of the collar are neither toc close together nor too far apart.
The eiiect is further considerably improved if the layers of textile material from which the outer part of the collar are made, are shrunk before being worked.
The result of the method of manufacturing double stand up collars is that when being washed the length of the upper part of the collar hardly shrinks at all, and when it has already been shrunk it does not further shrink at all, and therefore retains the form in which it is cut,
whereas the lower part of the collar which has been cut in a straight line in the direction of the warp and not shrunk, shrinks, so that a hollow space is unavoidably formed. Then it is easily-V possible by the shape and the curve of the pat-'1' 60 terns to give the finished collar such a shape that the distance between the upper and lower parts of the collar is correct, i. e. neither too large nor too small, even when an unskilled ironer dealsf with the collar. '65
The invention is illustrated in the annexed drawing, in which: v
Figure l is a diagrammatic View showing a known method of cutting out the upper and the lower collar portions at the right and the lefthand sides, respectively,
Fig. 2 is a similar view showing another known method,
Fig. 3 is a similar view showing the method I according to the present invention, "I5
Fig. 4 is a plan view of a collar laid out at, and
Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the collar in folded position ready for use.
In this drawing a and b are pieces of textile material from which the upper part c and the lower part d of the collar are to be cut. The pieces of textile material are shown in the drawing, the horizontally directed arrow x indicating the course of the weft threads, and the vertically directed arrow y indicating the course of the warp'5 threads.
According to Fig. l, the upper collar portions c and also the lower collar portions d are both cut in known manner in the direction of the warp. y
Fig. 2 shows a mode of cutting which cannot be employed in practice, in which the upper collar part c is cut from the piece of textile material a diagonally to the direction of the weft and warp threads. From this figure it can be seenwhat loss of material is involved. The lower collar parts d' are cut from the strip of textile material b in the same manner as in Fig. 1, in the direction of the warp threads.
Fig. 3 explains the new method of manufacturing double stand-up collars according to this invention. According to this method from the piece of textile material a the upper collar parts c are cut in the direction of the weft threads, and from the piece of material b the lower collar parts d" are cut in the direction of the warp threads.
Figs. 4 and 5 show in different positions the upper collar part c and the lower collar part d" sewed together. '110 2. A method of manufacturing collars which comprises the steps of shrinking a textile material, cutting out the upper parts of the collar from said shrunk textile material in the direction parallel to the direction of the weft threads thereof, cutting out the lower parts of the collar from another and unshrunk textile material in the direction parallel to the direction of the warp threads thereof,` and sewing the upper and lower parts together to form the nished collar.
PAUL FRANKFURTHER.
US671584A 1931-08-18 1933-05-17 Double stand-up collar Expired - Lifetime US1975205A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE1975205X 1931-08-18

Publications (1)

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US1975205A true US1975205A (en) 1934-10-02

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3831200A (en) * 1971-07-20 1974-08-27 G Weiss Technique for eliminating pilling in shirt collars
US20230117706A1 (en) * 2021-09-22 2023-04-20 5.11, Inc. Shirt with convertible collar

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3831200A (en) * 1971-07-20 1974-08-27 G Weiss Technique for eliminating pilling in shirt collars
US20230117706A1 (en) * 2021-09-22 2023-04-20 5.11, Inc. Shirt with convertible collar
US11974614B2 (en) * 2021-09-22 2024-05-07 5.11, Inc. Shirt with convertible collar

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