US1966479A - Machine for use in the manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Description

July 17, 1934. A. BATES 1,965,479

amounts FOR 1158 IN THE amuurm'wna or saozs v original Filed 1:90.13} 192a Sheets-Sheet 1 I 72 .f. 76 a H I :21) v [04 July 17, 1934. A. BATES 1,966,479

I MACHINE FDR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF'SHOES original Filed Dec. 13, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 July 17, 1934. A. BATES ,9

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE .OF SHOES Original Filed Dec. 13, 1928 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 2 I v /NVEN.TL7R- Patented July 17, l934 I .MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE or snoas Arthur Bates, Leicester, England, 'assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. .L, a corporation of New Jersey Application December 13, 1928, Serial No. 325,839. Renewed May 5, 1932. In Great Britain De cemlier 21, 1927 105 Claims This invention relates to machines for lasting and permanently securing the upper of ashoe to its insole or sole and is illustrated as em-' bodied in a machine for lasting and sewing or welting boots and shoes. The illustrated machineis adapted for operation on either welt or turn boots and shoes and it is to be understood that the term shoe where it is .used

hereafter throughout. the specification, unless otherwise indicated by the context, is intended to mean either a welt or turn boot or shoe.

In the manufacture of welt shoes it is common practice first to last the shoes at the sides, along the shank and forepart, on one machin e, for example a lasting machine of the progressive or step-by-step type, and then to last the heel and.

toe on another machine, for example a bed lasting machine; then to trim away thee'xcess of upper material around the shoe, and subsequently to present the shoe to a welt sewing machine by operation of which the welt is united to the upper and insoleof the shoe.

In the manufacture of turn shoes the shoes are, in some cases, lasted by machine, in other casesby hand, and in still other cases partly by hand and partly by machine, according to the desire of the manufacturer. After this lasting operation, which may extend around the forepart and along the sides of the shank or entirely around the shoe, the excess of upper material is trimmed away and the shoe is presented to an inseam sewing'machine which sews the lasted upper sole to the shoe.

be understood that, both in the manufacture of welt shoes and of turn shoes, the time required to effect the separate lasting and sewing operations is considerable,- and it is an object of this invention-to combine these two operations in a single operation, thereby effecting remarkable savings in the amount of time consumed and in the number of machines and operatives required for the manufacture of shoes ofthese types.

Another object of the invention is to provide' an improved machine in which a shoe can be both lasted and weltedor sewed as it passes through the machine, which will operate efllciently at-high speed and will be of compact and robust construction. Many attempts have I been made in the past, as the prior art indi-' cates, to provide machines combining these operations but none of them has everattained commercial success. Such. machines, to be acceptable under modern manufacturing condi- .tions, must operate at high speed, and hence It will readily one problem, which it is an object of this invention to solve, was to provide a machine for performing these two operations in which the instrumentaliti'es were so combined and organized that the machine could be operated at the required speed and would have thelarge capacityv demanded under commercial conditions.

Accordingly, the'machine of this invention comprises an organization of sewing instrumentalities including a needle adapted to pass through an upper and the between-substance of an insole, shoe feeding means for advancing the shoe past the needle, and upper tensioning means organized to apply lasting tension to the upper in a direction h'eightwise of the last. In

the illustrated machine the upper tensioning,

means comprises a gripper organized to seize the upper, to move heightwise' of the last to tension the upper, andto have a component of movement inwardly of the shoe during said heightwise movement to. overdraw the upper.

- Preferably the tensioning movement of the gripper takes place in conjunction with the freed movement of the shoe and, to this end, the

*gripper operating mechanism is so constructed and arranged that the gripper moves while the shoe is being fed and during its upper tensioning operation. Thus, since the operation of the shoe feeding mechanism occupies a substantial portion of the cycle of the machine's operations, ample time is afforded during the feed. movement for effecting adequate tensioning of-the upper and satisfactory lasting of the shoe is assured. This cooperation of the shoe feeding and upper tensioning mechanisms contributes substantially to the speed and output of the machine. At the time the shoe is being fed it is free from the sewing instrumentalities and other means which control the shoe during their operation, and hence the upper is free and in condition to be tensioned eflectively by the grippen. This contributes materially to the excellence of the lasting operation. Thus, for the first time in the history of the shoemaking art, an organization has been provided which overcomes and obviates the difliculties and weak n'esses which have foiled previous attemptsto produce a successful machine for, performing these two operations. I I

Preferablyand as illustrated, the upper tensioning movement of'the gripper begins before the feed movement of the shoe commences, continues throughout the feed movement, and until after the feed movement has ceased, the gripper then holding the upper in tensioned condition ing utilized for-effecting the upper tensioning- 5' operation without taking time from the opera tion of the sewing instrinnentalities. Preferably the'point of' the needle has entered the between-substance prior to .the release of the gripper. The gripper, since its upper tensioning and feeding movements take place during the feed of the work, assists in feeding the wor to the sewing instrumentalities. e

The shoefeeding means of the illustrated machine comprises a channel guide having a fourmotion feed movement to advance the shoe toward the sewing instrumentalities. An even and effective feed movement of the shoe is thus obtained." The updraw movement of the gripper, since it occurs during movement of the channel guide to feed the shoe, tends to hold.

the bottom of the shoe against'the lower face of the channel guide, and the overdraw movement of the gripper, which is simultaneous with its updraw movement, tends to hold the rib or lip of the insole outwardly of the machine against the end face or the'channel guide. In theorganization of the illustrated machine, the gripper jaws have a feed movement, that is, a movement lengthwiseof the edge of the shoe in excess of the feed movement imparted to the shoeby the channel guide; This movement of the gripper jaws; combined with the feeding of the shoe by the channel guide and the updraw movements of the gripper above described, imparts to theupper a tension component in a ,direction lengthwise of the last in addition to the heightwise tension, and'thus tends to take up slack in the unlasted upper materials rearwardly of the gripper, considered in the line of ,feed, and to crowd it gradually toward the needle. This tends to dispose of objectionable looseness in the unla'sted portion of the upper and assists the lasting effect of the gripper.

In 'order to adapt the machine for lasting the sides only of shoes the toes of which have been previously lasted, and for carrying on the sewing operation, or the sewing and welting operation, along the shank and around the toe from breast line to breast line, improved means is provided for rendering the gripper inoperative while going around the toe. As illustrated,

the updraw. lever of the'gripper is operated to lower the gripper through yielding means, and

means is provided forcontrolling movement of the updraw lever to raise the gripper or prevent lowering of the gripper. Whenoperating on a sewing around the'toe of the shoe, as otherwise shoe the toe of which has been previously lasted and the excess" of uppermaterials trimmed off, it'is,desirable," jafter the first side ofthe shoe has been lasted and sewed or lasted and welted,

to raise or prevent descent of the gripper while the gripper, which is set as low as possible to ,reach a scant upper, might engage the shoe and disturb its position. It is desirable, of course, torelease the gripper for its anormal operation during the sewing or welting of the second side of theshoe'. The operation, of the gripper may controlled manually by a knee lever or, as illustrated, by a treadle.

relieve the operator of the care and attention required by manual control of the gripper to throw it into and out of opefation'at the proper times, the machine may, as illustrated, be provided withmechanism acting automatically to In order, however, to 7 raisethe gripper after a predetermined number of cycles of its operation and to hold the gripper so that it cannot interfere with the operation of welting and sewing about the toe of the shoe for' a predetermined number 'of cycles of the sewing instrumentalities and then to restore the gripper to. operative position for continuing the lasting and sewing 'along the second side of the I shoe. Preferably provision ismade for varying the number of operations of the gripper which occur, before it is thrown out.

The, machine is organized to stop at that point in the cycle when the needle is out of the work to permit the shoe to be removed, from the machine. At this point in the cycle, however, the

gripper, has seized the upper preparatory to its tensioning and feeding movement. Accordingly, it is desirable to provide means for opening the gripper after the machine stops to permit the shoe tob'e removed from the machine. As

illustrated, the fulcrum of the gripper closing 1 lever is mounted upon an eccentric sleeve and means is provided for rotating the sleeve to effect release of the pressure ofthe gripper closing spring to permit the gripper to open.

Under certain conditions it may be helpful to angle of union before the needle enters the work. Accordingly, another feature of the in-' vention consists 'in a bedding device or wiper arranged to engage the portion of the upper held under tension by the gripper and to work it inwardly of the shoe into the angle between the feather and shoulder of the'insole. As illustrated, the wiper comprises a member pivoted of the feed movements of the channel guide and the gripper and its movement toward the shoe is coincident with movement of the channel provide means for working the upper into the a its The pivot guideihto engagement with the lip or rib of the insole, 'so that the upper and between-substance of the insole are gripped between the channel guide and the wiper and are held thereby'in position for the passage of the needle through them.

- Some of the features of the invention may be useful in machines which do not perform all'of the operations carried out by the illustrated machine and in that event the claims should be construed accordingly.-

These and other features ofthe invention,

.including various novel constructions and arrangements of parts, will appear more fully from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in theappended claims.,

In the drawings,v I Fig. 1 ,is a view in sidev elevation, parts being broken away, of a lasting and sewing machine embodying the present invention;

Figs. 2 and 3 arefdetail views of parts shown Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the lasting and sewing instrumentalities shown in Fig, 1, the wiper mechanism being omitted;

"Fig. 5 is a ,cam chart of the machine showing diagrammatically the timing of the cams by which the various instrumentalitie of the machine are operated;

Fig. 6 is a perspective detail view of; the chem has been operated upon by the machine to last with which the machine may be provided; and- Fig. 9 is a front elevation of the-mechanism shown in Fig.8.

The illustrated machine for performing the combined operations of lasting and sewing or' lasting and welting shoes comprises sewing instrumentalities including welthandling mechanism substantially as disclosed in- Letters Patent of the United States as followsz -No. 1,108,560,

granted August 25, 1914, on application of Andrew Eppler; No. 1,076,878, granted October 28,

'1913, on application of Andrew Eppler; and

No. 1,099,326, granted June 9, 1914, on application of vL. E. Topham. Reference may be had to these patents for explanation of parts not herein fully described.

As illustrated in the drawings, the sewing and welting instrumentalities comprise a curved hook 35'- needle 10, a needle guide 12, a looper -14,-. a thread arm 16, a takeup 18, an auxiliary takeup 20, a channel guide 22, a welt guide 24, a back rest 26, a back rest slide 28, a welt guide slide 30,

"and a tension device 32, all of which may be constructed and operated substantially as disclosed in the above-mentioned patents.

7 or rib/and then toward the needle 10 to feed 1 the work. For this purpose the channel guide an arm 34 (partly broken away, Fig. 1) pivoted fulcrumed at 42 to the machine frame and has- 22 is mounted for heightwise adjustment on we shaft36 on a feed slide 38 which is mounted v for movement transversely of the machine in the,

direction of feed on a shaft 37'and has an adjustable connection at 39 to a lever 40. The lever 40 at its front end is secured'to ayoke at its rear end a roll.44 engaging a' cam path 45 (see Fig. 5) in the -edge face of a cam 46.

Fixed to the arm 34 which carries the channel guide '22 is a vertical channel guide operating arm 48 which reciprocates with the feed slide 38 and is given periodic movements at right angles to the movements; of the feed slide to cause the channel guide carried thereby to engage and retire from thelchannel' or rib of the shoesole. For this purpose, the upper end of the arm 48 is provided with a notchhaving slidingengagement with a tooth 50 formed on part to the lever 52 movements in a vertical ment.

plane. In the illustrated machine the cam path 58 is so formed that the movements imparted to the lever 52, and thereby to the channel guide 22, cooperate with the recipr'ocations of the feed slide 38 to give the channel guide, a four-way motion; that is, the channel guide, during the operation of the machine, is firstgiven an inward movement to. enter the channel or to engage the rib, is'then' moved transversely toward the needle 10 with the feed slide' to, feed the work, is subsequently, at the end of its feeding stroke, withdrawn outwardly from the channel or away from the rib; and, while still withdrawn from the channel,- is returned to its initial position when the feed'slide makes its return move- This movement is found to be particularly advantageous when'operating around the toe of the shoe. The inner edge of the channel guide, as shown in Fig. 6, is beveled off so as to form a sharp angle which can dig somewhat into the channel lip'to assist in feeding the work, and for the same purpose the lowerfface of the channel guide, that isthe face which will engage the bottom of the insole, is fluted or corrugated from its inner end toward its outer end. For use on shoes having reenforced in-' soles, this end of the channel guide may be forcing material.

made blunt betterto avoid injury to the reen-' The illustrated machine is provided with a, 'lasting gripper comprising an outer jaw ',62 and an inner jaw '64, the gripper being operated in time relationto the sewing instrumentalities' to last the' upper of the shoe progressively before it is sewn, thus obviating the necessity of a separate complete lasting operation around the shoe prior to the sewing operation. The outerv jaw 62 of the gripper is provided with a hollow V shank portion 66 extending upwardly and outwardly at an angleof twenty-five or thirty degrees to the vertical and formed at its upper end with a ball 68- engaging a seat in an up- .draw lever 70, the ball being-held in its seat.

by a plate 72 secured by cap screws 74. Universal movement of the shanktfi with respect to' an eccentric strap 84 which is operated by an eccentric 86 on the shaft 60. Within the sleeve 78 the rod 80 is provided with an enlarged portion 88 (Fig. 2) below which on-the rod 80 is a washer'90, upwardv movement of which on-the rod is' prevented by the enlargement 88. Between the washer 90 and the split clamp 82 a helical compression spring 92 is mounted. Resting on the upper end of the enlarged portion 88 is a flanged sleeve 94, between the flange of which and a thumb nut 96 threaded on the upper end of the rod is anupdraw spring 98.

B3! this. arrangement it will be seen that the updraw spring 98 may be placed 'under any desired'initial tension by adjusting the nut 96,

and that, when the updraw lever 70 is operated will be imparted to the gripper.

If it is desired to impart to the gripper an initial yielding pull and a final positive. pull, the sleeve 94'may be extended upwardlynearly by the eccentric 86, yielding updraw movements to' the thumb nut 96-, for example, by providing 7 by adjusting the thumb nut 96 downwardly to engage thesleeve, the updraw movement may be rendered entirely positive, as may be desir-- able in some classes of work. By loosening the clamp 82'and turning the rod 80 by its squared upper end, the gripping position of the gripper heightwise of the shoe may be varied. I

It will be seen that the spring 92 below the:

updraw lever causes the downward movement of the gripper, as the rear end of the updraw lever is moved upwardly, to take place yieldingly and will permit the gripper to be held stationary in its raised position if desired against the com- -pression of the spring 92 during the rotation of the eccentric 86. In order toraise the gripper or retain the gripper in its raised position, for example, when operating upon the toe of a welt shoe where the upper has been previously lasted and the margins of the upper materials around the toe have been trimmed away to a ,certain extent, and where, therefore, action of the gripper is unnecessary, the following manually operated mechanism is provided: The sleeve 78 has a stud engaging a slot 102' formed in a link 104 connected at its lower end to an arm 106 of a bell crank lever fulcrumed on a fixed shaft 108 of the machine and having secured to its other arm 110 a flexible connection 112 which leads to a foot treadle 113 arranged adjacent to a starting treadle 114 of-the machine. By depression of the treadle 113 while the starting treadle 114 is still held depressed, tension may be applied to the connection 112 to move the link 104 downwardly. The upper end of the slot 102 will then engage the stud 100 and the rear end of the updraw lever '10, if then raised, will be depressed to raise the gripper. Thus, during operation of the eccentric 86, the spring 92 is merely compressed without imparting any movement to the updraw lever, the gripper jaws 62, =64 being thus maintainedin a raised position where they cannot engage the 'work. On the shaft 108, on which the bell crank lever 106, 110 is fulcrumed, there is adjustably fixed by a set screw 115 a member 116 provided; with adjusting screws 118, 120 located, respectively, above and below a lug on the arm 110 of the bell crank lever to limit its movement in either direction. It will be seen that by adjustment of the screw 118 the lowered position of the gripper jaws maybe varied and that by adjustment of the screw 120 the raised position of the jaws may be controlled.

The lower end of the shank 66 of the gripper is mounted on a stud 122 (Fig. 4) which projects laterally from a split clamp 124 into which a sleeve 126 is threaded. The sleeve 126 is mounted to turn freely on a reduced portion of the outer end of anarm' 128 pivoted at 36 on which at this time are 'gripping' the upper, as

will be explained, are moved with the feed slide to cause or assist in the feeding of the work a to the sewing instrumentalities or, to partake of that movement. Furthermore, since the jaws 62, 64 of the gripper are located below the pivotal connection of the gripper to the am 128, which has a feed movement equal to that of the channel guide 22,'and the upper end of the shank 66 of the gripper has no lateral movement, the gripper jaws have a movement lengthwise of the shoe edge or. in the line of feed which is in excess of the feed movement of the channel guide and hence in excess of the feed movement of the shoe. The,upper is thus fed by the gripper jaws farther than the" shoe is fed by the channel guide. The gripper, therefore, tends to dispose of the slack or fullness in the unlasted portion of theupper at the rear of thegripper, considering the direction in which it is being fed, and tends to crowd the upper gradually toward the needle. Thus, objectionable looseness of the unlasted portion of the upper along the sidesisprevented and a better lasting of the shoe effected.

The relative lengths of the forward arm of the updraw lever and of the arm 128 are so chosen (the former being preferably greater than the latter) that the gripper, instead of starting 100 its updraw movement in a direction perpendicular to the plane of the last bottom, starts its movement at an angle of substantially less than ninety degrees, for example sixty or seventy, to the last bottom. Moreover, since the 81111128 extends upwardly and outwardly with respect to the plane of the shoe bottom, its swinging movement during the updraw movement of the gripper causes the gripper to swing inwardly over the bottom of the last and thus to impart a further overdraw tension tothe'shoe upper. This overdraw movement of-the gripper is therefore effected as an incident to the updraw movement and continues throughout the updraw movement. The gripper, although free at all times to turn on the arm- 128, is adjustable lengthwise of the arm (by loosening the clamp 124 and turning the sleeve 126-, and, by thus varying the position of the gripper pivot along said arm, the effective length of the latter can be varied and conse- ,quently the general angle relative to the shoe bottom of the arc throughwhich the gripper jaws move during the overdraw movement can be controlled. Also, by this adjustment the initial or. gripping position of the gripper may be adjusted inwardly or outwardly.

The inner jaw'64 is pivoted to the shank portion 66 of the outer jaw 62 by means of an ear which enters a slot in the shank portion 66 and 130 through which the stud 122 passes. The inner jaw is thus pivoted to the outer jaw. The inner jaw has an upward extension 132 which is connected by a short link 134 .with a sliding plunger 136 arranged for longitudinal movement in the hollow shank portion 66 of the gripper. A tension spring 138 connected between the plunger 136 andthe shank 66 tends to raise the plunger and maintain the gripper jaws open. The plunger 136 passes upwardly through the ball 140 68 and is engaged by a'plunger 140 mounted in the forward end of a'gripper closing lever 142 pivoted between itsends at 144 on the forward arm of the updraw lever 70.

The plunger 140 is held depressed by a spring 145 146 the tension of which may be varied by turning a threaded sleeve 148 which bears upon the upper end of thejspring 146, the pressure of the gripper jaws than. the upper materials being thus controlled. The rear end of the gripper 150 closing lever 142 is pivoted to a link 150 the low end of which is pivotally. connected at 152 to the depending arm of an angle lever 154 pivoted at 156. and'having a rearwardly extending, cam-actuated arm carrying a cam roll 158 which engages a cam track 160 (see Fig. 5). The arrangement of the link 150 and lever 154 is such that the pivot 152 by which they are connected will be in axial alinement with the pivot 76 of the updraw lever 70 when the gripper is closed, so that. movement of the updraw lever 'to tension the upper will have no effect uponthe pressure with which the gripper jaws are held .closed. Through its cam track 160 the lever 154 is so actuated that the gripper is rise withthe updraw 'lever as the latter turns to lift the gripper and stillmaintain the gripper tightly closed with a'force dependent upon the adjustment of the sleeve 148.

The illustrated machine is organized. to stop at that portion of the cycle when the needle is out of the work and the gripper has seized the upper preparatory to again feeding the work. Accordingly, it is desirable to provide means for opening the grippers at this time to permit the removal of the work from the machine. For this purpose, in the illustrated machine, the pivot 156- comprises a stud extending horizontally from the machine frame on which stud is rotatably mounted an eccentric sleeve 161, the sleeve being rotatably mounted in the angle lever 154 and provided with a hand lever 162; A coiled spring 164 has one end fixed to the angle lever'l54 and the other end fixed to a pin 166 on the eccentric sleeve 161 so as to urge the sleeve in a clockwise direction until its movement is arrested by engagement therefore, that by rotating the hand lever 162 in acounterclockwise direction as permitted by the slot 168, the axis of theeccentric sleeve will be lowered relatively to the axis of the stud 156 andthe'angle lever 154 will therefore draw down the link 150 and open the gripperjaws,

'the'angle lever 154 pivoting meanwhile about the roll 158 on itsrear end.

Under certain conditions it is desirable to provide lasting means in addition to the gripsisting of a finger 170 (Figs. 1 and 3) which is,

adjustably mounted on a carrier 1'72 f xedly secured on the shaft 36 which reciprocates with the'feed slide. The wiper 170 is so-positioned that its lower or wiping end'extendsv along the front of the welt guide 24 below the gripper jaws 62, 64 and opposite to the channelguide When the machine is at rest the wipenis withdrawn from operative position to allow of easy removal and insertion of the work. Also secured to the shaft 36 is an arm 174 which is formed at its endwith an arcuate face 176 concentric with the axis of the shaft 36. A second arm 1'78 loosely mounted on the shaft 36 carries on its end a roll 180 which is adapted to contact with the arcuate face 176on the end of the arm 174. A third arm 182 is also loosely pivoted on the shaft 36 and this arm extends beyond the end of the arm 178 and is turned over at its end to extend across the end face of the latter. The turned over endof the arm 182 is also approximatelyfconcentric with theaxis of the shaft 36 but near its upper end is formed on its interior face with a cam projection 184 which is adapted, upon downward movement of the arm 182, to, wedge the roll'180 against thearcuate face 176 of the arm 174 and, upon continued downward movement of the arm 182, to

ward movement of the arm 174 will, as will readily be understood, rock the shaft 36 in a clockwise direction and will therefore-cause the wiper 1'70 to move outwardly to wipe the upper materials into the angle between the lip or rib and feather of the insole. The necessary movements for this purpose are imparted to the arm 182 by connections with the channel guide operating lever 52 above described. These connections comprise a'rod 186 which is pivoted at its lower end by a pivot pin '188to a block 190,

a universal connection of the rod 186 with, y

the arm 182. The rod 186 passes upwardly and rearwardly from the'arm 182 and extends freely through a bearing 194 at its upper end which bearing is pivoted at 196 to a block 198 which is pivoted-at 200 to an extension 202 of the" lever 52 in a mannersimilar to the pivotal mounting at the lower end of the rod, said pivotal mountings at the upper and lower ends of the rod allowing unrestricted reciprocating movements of the wiper 170 with the feed slide to take place without affecting the connections of the-rod 186 to thelever 52 and to the arm182. A spring 204 confined between a shoulder on the rod 186 and the bearing 194 causes the aforesaid Wiping movement to take place yieldingly. /A the arm 182 is lifted by the return movement of the rod 186 after the wiping movement has been effected and after the work has been fed, it rides away from the roll 180 on the arm 178, and the wiper 1'70 is therefore released from control by the arm 182. A spring 206, connected to the carrier -172 and to a fixed part of the" machine,

. causes the wiper to be pulled back until it comes to rest on the forward 'end .of 'the welt guide 24.

In order to maintain the roll 180 in position urges the roll 180 upward into contact with the wedging faces'of' the two arms. The machine comes to rest in a definite position with the needle out of the work. At this time the wiper' 170 is in its operative position. In order to allow the wiper toswing back under the action of its spring. 206, a finger-piece 210.is provided on the roll carrying arm 178' whereby the latter may move downwardly to remove the rollfrombetween the wedging faces, thereby freeing the wiper and allowing it to move back until 'it .is

- arrested by contact with the welt guide.-

In orderto relieve the operator of the care and attention required to render the gripperinoperative at the proper time when the tip line is reached and to restore the grippertooperative condition after the toe has, been Welted, automatic mechanism for this purpose'may be prohereinafter more fully described.

' vided, as illustrated in Figs. 8 and 9. As shown in Fig. 8, the lower end of the link 104 is connected to the upper arm of a lever 220 which is fulcrumed on the shaft 108. The lower arm of the lever 220 is bifurcated and carries a trunnion member 222 which is secured to it by horizontal pivot pins 224. A rod 226 passes through the trunnion member 222 and is secured at its forward end to an eccentric strap 228 which surrounds an eccentric 230. This eccentric is fast upon a horizontal shaft 232 which is rotatably housed in a bore in the shaft 37 on which the reciprocating feed slide 38 is mounted. Also fast.

upon the shaft 232 and lying close to the eccentric 230 is a ratchet wheel 236 having formed upon it a suitable number of teeth, illustrated as forty-eight.

Carried by a vertical arm 238 loosely mounted on the shaft 232 is a pawl 240 adapted to cooperate with the ratchet wheel 236. A spring 242, secured atone end to the pawl and at the other end to a hook on the arm 238 below the pawl, serves to keep the pawl in engagement with the ratchet wheel. The vertical arm 238 is connected at its upper end by a link 244 to the eccentric strap 84-which is connected to the updraw lever trunnion member 222, the spring tending to turn the lever in a counterclockwise direction until its motion is arrested by a fixed step 252. Lock nuts 25am: provided on the end of the rod 226 and are moved at certain times to swing the lever 220 in a clockwise direction, as will be The arrangement of the ratchet and pawl actuated mechanism is such that the eccentric 230 is rotated from rest through a complete revolution in forty-eight successive steps corresponding to forty-eight actuations .of the pawl 240 and to the formation of forty-eight stitches. During the first twenty-four steps of the movement ofthe eccentric, the lever- 226 will be prevented from moving in a counterclockwise direction by the stop 252, and the eccentric rod 226 will slide through the trunnion member 222 against the compression of its spring 250 and will, toward the latter part of such movement after. the eccentric passes its dead center, commence to retract the rod until the lock nuts 254 on its'end come into contact with the lower end of the lever 220. During all this time the gripper, continues its normal operation to last the upper. step by step. During the next twenty-four steps.

of the'ratchet wheel 236, the eccentric will retract the rod 226 still farther and, by reason of the engagement of the lock nuts 254 with-the lever 220, the lever will be swung away from its stop 252 in the clockwise direction. As the lever 220"continues to move in this'direction, the rear end of the gripper updraw lever 70 will be drawn down slightly by the slotted link 104 against the action of the spring 92 and the gripper will be raised and held above the lowest position it reaches on its downward movement to seizethe upper. During this time the eccentric rod 80, which normally operates to raise and lower the gripper, will continue to rise and fall as usual and will "work idly against the. action of the springs 92 and 98.. As the ratchet wheel 236 (and therefore the eccentric 230) approaches the end of a complete revolution, an adjustable stop pin 256 carried by the eccentric 230 and projecting from a lateral. face thereof abuts against a shoulder 258 on a latch piece 260 which is pivotally mounted on a shield 262 rotatably mounted on the shaft 232. During the-last. part of the revolution the stop pin 256 carries the. latch piece 260 and the shield 262 in front of it and causes the shield to ride over the teeth on the ratchet wheel beneath the pawl 240, so that the pawl therefore moves idly to and fro along the outer surface of the shield without imparting motion to the ratchet wheel 236. Also by this time the eccentric rod 226 will have been advanced bythe eccentric 2305a suflicient distance to allow the gripper operating mechanism to resume its gripper operating function. In this latter condition the machine will continue to position, and will thereafter operate to sew as i many stitches whilethe lastinggripp'er is operating as the operator of the machine desires.

This arrangement is effective for" the purpose desired since it is found that on a shoe of average size twenty-four stitches are usually sufllcient to sew along the side of the shoe from the point adjacent to thelbreast line at which the operator commences to sew to a point near the toe where the tip line of the toe'cap would normally occur. Operation of the lasting gripper along this side portion of the shoe'is, of

course, desired. It is also found that twentyfour stitches are sufiicient to unite the upper to its sole around the toe portion of the shoe but,

it is desirable, for reasons hereinafter explained,

that the gripper shall not attempt to last the upper around this portion of the shoe, and this result is obtained by the mechanism just described for automatically cutting out the grippers. Afterthe operator has-sewn around the toe of the shoe to a position close to the tip line, it is desirable, of course, to have the gripper operate to 'last the shoe along the second side of the shoe from tip line to breast line. This condition is provided'forby the above-described automatic mechanism for restoring the gripper to operative condition; It will be understood that, at theend of the sewing and lasting operation on the shoe, the shield 262 will be positioned between the pawl 240 and the ratchet wheel 236, and that, unless it is removed at the commencement of the operation upon another shoe, the gripper will not be rendered inoperative automatically atany time during the sewing oi the shoe. 'By thus leaving the shield in this position, the gripper may be al-, lowed to operate all around the shoe. including the toe, if the operator so desires. .In order to release the shield from beneath the pawl the pivoted latch piece 2601s 'formed as a finger.

piece so that it can be raised about its pivot out of engagement with the stop 256. A spring 'tached at one end to the shield 262 and having its slot engaged by a fixed pin 2'70 serves to limit movement of the shield in a clockwise direction. The stop pin256 carried by the m ratchet wheel is adjustableinan 'arcuate slot 30 the upper pulled over, the shoe is lasted at the' heeland toe ends by utilizing end. embracingin the ratchet wheel so that, if I it is desired only to sew, say, twenty-two stitches before the gripper is thrown out. of peration'(as-for examplewhen operating on very small shoes),

1 the stop pin may be adjusted along the slot in a counterclockwise direction. Such an adjustment will provide .thatpthe eccentric will be advanced relative to the stop in a clockwise direction and therefore that the gripper will be 'cut' out of operation earlier. A hand-wheel 2'72 is secured to the end of the shaft 232 so that'the ratchet and stop pin maybe returned to initial position if the thread breaks during the sewing oi a shoe or if it is desired to recommence the sewing for any other reason.

In the use of the illustrated machine in welt shoe making the operations. may be as follows: After an upper a (Fig. 7) and a lipped or ribbed insole b have been assembled upon a last 0 and wipers, for example, in abed lastingf'machine. The upper at the heel-seat is held in lasted positionby tacks d and the upper at the toe may be held in lasted position in any usual manner, for example by a binding wireor by staples. The upper at the toe is then trimmed away substantially flush with the' ribv or lip of the insole. In this condition the shoe-is pre- 40 sented, insole uppermost, to the lasting and sew- 5 in proper position for attachment to the shoe. The machine is stopped in such a position that,

ing machine with the channel guide in the channel of the insole or against the-rib at a point adjacent to the breast line,thc end portion'of a welt e being presented by the welt guide 24 upon starting the machine, its first operationis to insert a single stitch before the gripper seizes andpulls the upper. In case the heel-seat has 5 already been lastedfas in the instance above indicated, thereis no need of tensioning the portion of th'e'upper through which the first stitch isimade as it is already substantially in.

* lasted position and the tightening of the stitch effects sufiicient lasting of thatportion. In case the heel-seat of the shoe has not been lasted at the time of the welting operation, any'loose-- ness, due to the fact that the upper was not pulled prior to the first stitch, will be taken care of in the'heel-seat lasting operation. Upon starting the machine by depression 'of thev treadle 115, the-needle 10 penetrates the .welt, upper and insole lip'or rib. 1 The channel guide is released from pressure -against'the lip or rib 135 by its cam 58 and is moved to *theright' the length of a stitch by' its cam 45. During this time the thread handling mechanism has laid.

a loop of thread in the barb of the needle and the needle is retracting. During the retrac- .tion of the needle and the settingof the stitch,

the cam 58 operates to move the channel guide against the rib or lip, the teeth and iiuting.

therein enabling, it to obtain a firm grip on the insole and effectively to feed the shoe toward needle-has now been retracted out of the workand the gripper 62, 64 has been brought, by operation of its eccentric 86, to'its lowest position. The cam 160 now operates to close the gripper, and its upward movement, yieldingly to updraw and overdraw the upper through the spring 98, is initiated. Themovement of the .channel guide zztoward'the left to feed the work now begins and, throughout the feeding Ifmovement, the gripper continues/its upper tensioning movement while moving with the channel guide to carry the upper toward the needle and to assist in thefeed movement of the shoe. After the feed movement of the channel guide 22 has ceased, the upper ,tensioning movement of the gripper continues and the upper is held taut without substantial movement of the grip'-- per, due to the ecc'entric'86 having reached the downward limit of its throw, while the needle is advancing and. until it has penetrated the upper materials and assumed control thereon-the illustrated machine being so organized that the needle has entered the between-substance of the insole prior to the release of the gripper.

During the tensioning and feed movements of the gripper, the gripper jaws "have moved farther than the channel guide in the direction of feed, as hereinbefore explained, to dispose tof fullness in the yet unlasted portioh oi the upper. The needle and thread handling mecha- 1 n'sm next operate to form and set the stitch through the welt, tensioned upper and betweensubstance of "the insole, andrepetition o! the cycle begins. The operation of lasting and welt-g ing the shoe is thus continued -until the .tip 1 line) is reached, whereupon the operator depresses the treadle 113, which may be done with the heel of the same, foot which is depressing the treadle 114, to,lift or hold the gripper in raised position against the action of the spring 1 92. The gripper jaws are so adjusted heightwise of the shoe that, intheir gripping position,

they are as low as is practicable to enable them to seize a scant upper. Hence, although the upper is trimmed away about the toe so that they cannot seize it, they might, if permitted to continue their downward movement, engage the shoe-and disturb its position while the operation of weltingflthe shoe about the toe is going on. After the toe has been welted with the gripper held in raised position and hence inoperative, the treadle 113 is released to permit the gripper again to operate, and. the lasting and welting v operations are continued along the second side of the shoe from tip line to breast line, whereupon the treadle stop the machine.

When-the machine is equipped with the mechanism shown in Figs. 8 and 9, the treadle 113 is 114 is released to) dispensed with and the gripper is thrown out of .135

reached and while welting about .the toe .and

to permit the gripper to act when the tip line is reached again so that the lasting and welting operation may be carried on along the secondside of theshoe. The ratchet wheel 236 has a number of teeth equal to the number of 1 stitches required for welting one side of the shoe and about the as. in each cycle of the machine to advance the ratchet wheel one tooth and the eccentric 232,

The pawl 240 is operated v.

75 the needle when it is moved to the left. The operated, by the ratchet wheel, acts through wardly through the spring 204, causing the I,

number of cycles of the machine sufficient to last and welt one side of the shoe has occurred,

to raise-the gripper so that it cannot reach the shoe. As the turning of the ratchet wheel 236 continues, the gripper is held out of action for a predetermined number of cycles of the sewing .instrumentalities sufllcient' for welting the toe and then is automatically restored to operative position for lastingand welting the second side of the shoe. The step-by-step movement of the ratchet wheel is automatically stopped after the toe has been welted byengagement of the shield 262 with the pawl 240. when the next shoe is presented to the machine, the latch piece 260 is raised to release the stop pin 256 from the latch piece and the spring 264 retracts the shield 262 from engagement with the pawl 240, the parts being then in position for operation on the next shoe.

The width of the gripper jaws is greater than the length ofthe usual stitch, that is, than the feeding movement of the .channel guide' 22. Hence, not only is every portion of the upper tensioned, but portions" of the upper are tensioned twice. This construction contributes to the effectiveness of the lasting operation performed by the machine.

In the stopped position of the machine, the needle is out of the work and the gripperclo'sed.

.If there is suiiicient upper stock' beyond :the

breast line for the gripper to seize, the shoe will 'be held in the machine by the gripper: The

hold of the gripper is released by operation of the handle 162 and the shoe is then free for the operation of cutting off the welt and thread, which may be done by hand or by mechanism nelguide 22 is moved toward the lip or rib of the insole by a clockwise movement of the lever 52 (Fig. 1), the rod 186 is moved downwedge projection 184 to force the roll 180 against the arcuate face 176 and hence to swing the carrier 172 and'wiper 170 toward the shoe to crowdthe upper yieldably intothe angle between the feather and shoulder of the insole. The wiper of course maintains its pressure against the upper during the feed movement of the channel guide and gripper andv is released simultaneously with the movement'of the channel guide away from the rib or lipof the insole. v

In operating upon welt shoes the toes of. which have not been previously lasted, the grip per will be allowed to remain in operation at the toe of the shoe and the lasting and welting operation carried on entirely around .the shoe from breast line to breast line.

In operating on turn shoes, .the use oi the welt guide will be discontinued and the lasting and sewing operation carried on from the breast line along the shank and around the forepart to the breast line again, and, in the 'case or a sewed seat turn, the sewing operation may be carried on around the heel-seat, the opera- -.tion of the gripper being discontinued while .sewing the heel-seat if desired. 3

Having thus described invention, what 1 claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, sewing means, shoe feeding means, a gripper, and means for operating the gripper to tension the upper over the shoe bottom while the feed movement is taking place.

2. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, sewing means; shoe feeding means, and a gripper constructedand arranged for operation to updraw and o'verdraw the upper while the feed movement is taking place.

3. A lasting and sewing machine having, in

combination, stitch forming mechanism, a gripper for seizing the upper, a channel guide,

means for operating the channel guide to feed the work, and means for simultaneously operating the gripper to updraw the upper.

4. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle, mechanism cooperating 'with the needleto form a chain stitch, a lasting gripper, means for imparting updraw movements to the gripper, shoe feeding means independent of the needle and its operating mechanism, and means for moving the gripper laterally during the operation of the shoe feeding means.

5. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle, mechanism cooperating with the needle to 'form a chain stitch,

a gripper, means for imparting updraw movevments to the gripper, and shoe feeding means acting to advance the shoe past the needle during the updraw movement of the gripper.

6. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle, mechanism cooperating with the needle to form a chain stitch, a lasting gripper, 'means for imparting updraw movements to the gripper, shoe feeding means, and means for moving the gripper laterally during the operation of the shoe feeding -means and while the updraw movement continues.

'7. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle, mechanism cooperating with the needle to form a chain stitch, a gripper, means ,forimparting updraw and overdraw movements to the gripper, and

a curved needle having a fixed path of movement,. shoe feeding means, upper tensioning means, and means to operate the ,tensioning means to tension the upper in conjunction with the operation of the feeding means to feed the shoe, said feed movement occurring before the needle enters the work.

9. In a machine of the class described, the combination of means for permanently securing the margin of an upper to the bottom of a shoe sole, means for feeding the shoe past said securing means, a gripper, and means for operating the gripper to tension the upper while the feed movement of the shoe is taking place.

10. A lasting and sewing'machine having, in

combination, shoe feeding means, a gripper m I seiaing successive portions of. the upper, means for eil'ecting movement of the gripper heightwise ofthe shoe and over the shoe bottom dur ing the feedingpperation of the feeding means,

thereby tensioningthe shoe upper, and stitch bination of a curved hook needle operated'to pass through the upper andbetween-substance.

through the tensioned upper and a portion of the shoe sole.

11; A lasting and sewing machine having, in

combination, stitch forming mechanism, a gripper for stretching the upper, a channel guide,

means for operating the channel guide to feed the work, and means for simultaneously operating the gripper to updraw and overdraw the upper and to move with the channel guide.

12. IA lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide, means for moving the channel guide to feed the work, a gripper for tensioning successive portions of the upper, and means -for effecting updraw movement of the gripper-during the movement of the channel guide to feed the work. 4

13.- In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide, means for operating the channel guide to feed the work, and means for holding the upper in lasted position during the feed move- I ment of the channel guide, said means being arranged for movement'in the directionfof feed during the feed movement of the channel guide.

14. In a machine of the class described, the

combination of means acting in a laterally fixed plane for securing, an upper permanently in lasted position over the bottom of a sole, shoe feeding means, means for tensioning successive portions of the upper prior to each securing operation, said means being constructed and arranged to move with the feeding means as the shoe is fed and thus to present the tensioned portion of the upper to the securing means.

15. In a lasting and sewing machine, the com bination of stitch forming mechanism including a curved needle having a fixed path of movement, .shoe feeding means, upper tensioning means, and means to operate the tensioning means to tension the upper in conjunction with the operation of the feeding means to feed the shoe, said feed movement occurring before the needle enters the work and the tension on the upper being maintained until after the needle enters the work.

16. In a lasting and sewing machine, the

combination of a curved hook needle, a channel guide constructed and arranged to feed the shoe to the needle, 9. gripper arranged to move in the line of feed during the feed movement of the channel guide, means for operating the gripper to'tension the upper, and means for returning the channel guide and gripper to position to start another feeding movement while the needle is substantially in its farthest position through the stock fed to it in the previous feed movement of the stock by the channel guide and gripper.

.17, In a lasting and sewing machine, the comof a shoe substantially in the plane of the bottom of aninsole, a channel guide operated tofeed the shoe past-the needle, a gripper operated to tension the stock, and means for closing .the gripper on the stock after-the needle has been withdrawn out of engagement withv theated to tension the upper, and means for opening and closing the gripper, said means being timed'to cause the gripper to maintain hold' of the upper until the needle has reached the between-substance and then to release the upper. 1 I

19. In a lasting and sewing machine the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a

channel guide operated to feed the shoepast the sewing mechanism, a gripper operated to tension the upper and means for imparting feed movement to the gripper during the feed movement of the channel guide, the tensioning movethe to pass through the upper and between-subof the upper until the needle has penetrated the upper and entered the between-substance and 'then to release the upper.

21. 'In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing mechanism, a channel guide operated to feed the shoe past the sew ing mechanism, a gripper operated to tension the upper, and means for imparting feed move-, ment to the gripper during the feed movement of the channel guide, the gripper continuingto hold the upper after the feed movement of the channel guide has ceased and until control of the upper is assumed by the sewing mechanism.

22. In a lasting and sewing machine, the

combination of a curved hook needle, means for,

feeding the shoe, and a gripper'having a'shank arranged in a vertical plane offset laterally from the needle, the gripper jaws being offset toward the plane of action of the needle to enable them to tension and hold the upper closely adjacent to the point of penetration of the upper by the needle.

.23. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of a curved .hook needle, thread handling mechanism including a looper, means for feeding the shoe, and a gripper having a shank arranged in a vertical plane offset laterally from the field of action of the looper, the gripper jaws being offset toward the plane of action of the needle, space being thus provided for the operation of the looper, and the gripper jaws operating to tension the upper closely' adjacent to the point of penetration of the upper by the needle. I 1

24. A lasting andsewing machine having, in

combination, sewing instrumentalities adapted to unite an inwardly turned edge of a shoe upper to a sole, and a gripper movable relativelyto the sewing instrumentalities in the-line of feed and adapted to grip successively different portions of the shoe upper at a point remote from the sewing instrumentalities and to carry such portions successively toward said instru-' mentalities in the line of feed.

25. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, sewing instrumentalities adapted progressively to unite an inwardly turned edge of ashoe upper to a sole, a. gripper adapted to grip successively diflerent portions of the shoe upper at a point remote from. the sewing instrumentalities and to carry such portions in the line of feed successively toward said instrumentalities, and means for operating the gripper, to apply a lasting tension to each portion of the upper or the shoe in a direction substantially heightwise of the shoe.-

26. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, sewing instrumentalities adapted to unite an inwardly turned edge of a shoe upper to a sole, means for moving the work in the line of feed past said instrumentalities, a gripper adapted: to engage-the margin of a shoe upper, and means for moving the gripper to apply lasting tension thereto during said movement of the workin the line of feed past said instrumentalities.

27. In a machine of the class described, the combination of shoe feeding means, means for permanently sewing an inwardly turned margin of a shoe upper to a sole, and a gripper adapted to grip successively different portions of the upper at a point spaced in the line of feed from the sewing means and to carry said portions in the line of feed toward the sewing means.

28. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide, means for moving the channel guide to feed the work, a gripper, and means for imparting updraw movements to the gripper to tension-successive portions of the work, said up* draw movements of the gripper occurring during the-movementoi the channel guide to feed the work and causing the shoe to' be" upheld against the channel guide to assist the feeding action thereof.

' 29. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide, means for moving the channel guide to feed the work, a gripper, and means forimparting updraw movements to the gripper to tension successive portions of the work, saidupdraw movements of the gripper continuing throughout the movement of the channel guide to feed the work and causing the shoe to be upheld against the channel guide during the feeding action thereof.

30. A lasting and sewing machine having, in

combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide .adapted to engage the rib and bottom of an insole to locate the shoe vertically and laterally, means for imparting shoe feeding movements to'the channel guide, a lasting gripper, and means for imparting updraw and overdraw movements to the'gripper in conjunctionwith the feed movements of the channel guide thereby causing the'updraw tension to hold'the insole against the lower face of the channel guide and the overdraw tension to hold the rib against the end of the channel guide.

31. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide adapted to engage the rib or channel and the bottom of an insole to locate the shoe vertically and laterally, means for imparting shoe feeding 'movements tothe channel guide, a lasting gripper, and means for imparting up-' .'draw and overdraw movements-to the gripper which continue throughout the feed movements of the channel guide, .thus causing the updraw tension to hold the insole against the lower face of the channelguide and the overdraw tension to hold the shoe against the endo! the channel guide. a e

32. In a lasting and sewing machine, thecom-; bination of stitch forming mechanism, achannel guide, means for operating the channel guide to feed the work, and means for holding the upper about the last during the feed movement of-the channel guide, said" holding means 'being arranged to move in the line of feed during movement of the channel guide and'to move farther in the line of feed than the channel guide moves.

33. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide operated to feed the shoe past the sewing mechanism, a gripper operatedto tension the upper, and means for imparting feed movement to the gripper during the feed movement of the channel guide, the arrangement being such that the movement of the gripper Jaws upper, and means for imparting feed movement to the gripper from the feed movement of the channel guide, the arrangement being such that the movement of the gripper jaws in the direction of feed is in excess of the movement of the channel guide to enable the gripper to dispose of fullness in the unlasted portion of the upper.

35. In,a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle, a .channel guide, a slide on which the channel guide is mounted, means for-moving the channel guide to feed the shoe, and a gripper'having its upper end fixed as to movement in the direction of feed and pivoted to said slide at a point substantially above the gripper jaws so that .,the movement of the gripper by the slide in the direction of feed will impart to the gripper jaws greater movement thatis imparted to "the channelguide.

36. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means including a needle, a channel guide, means for operating the channel guide to feed the work intermittently the length of a stitch, a gripper arranged to move with the channel guideand having jaws to seize successive portions of the upper, and means for effecting upper tensioning movements of the gripper during movement of the channel guide and gripper to feed the work, said gripper gripper operating to tension successive portions cf the upper and to carry each portion under hnsion toward the needle, said gripper having jaws wider than the length of the feed movement of the shoe so that all portions of the upper are tensioned and portions of the upper are tensioned'twiee.

38, In a machine of the class described, the combination of a lasting gripper, means including a lever fulcrumed between its ends forlimparting updraw movement to the gripper, a gripper closing lever iulcrumed between its ends on the u'pdraw lever, a link connected at one end to said gripper closing lever, and a cam actucombination of means for securing the upper p 1,900,479 ated lever to which the other end of said link is pivoted, said parts being so constructed and arranged that when the cam lever is operated to glose the gripper the pivot connecting itto the link will be in axial alinement with the fulcrum of the updraw lever so that operation of the updraw lever will have no eflect on the force with which the gripper 15 held closed.

39. In a machine of :the class described, the combination of a gripper for tensioning an upper, a lever i'or imparting updraw movement to the gripper and having a fixed fulcrum between its ends, a cam actuated lever having a fixed fulcrum, a gripper closing lever mounted on the updraw lever, and connections between the closing lever and the cam lever to effect closing oi the gripper, said connections being so arranged with respect to the fulcrum of the updraw lever that, when the gripper is closed, operation of the updraw lever to tension the upper has no efiect on the gripper closing lever and cam actuated lever.

40. In a lasting and sewing machine, the

combination of sewing means including a curved hook needle, a gripper constructed and operated to tension'the upper while the needle is withdrawn from the work, means organized to bring the machine to rest with the needle withdrawn from the work and the gripper closed, and means for releasing the hold of the gripper upon the upper to facilitate removal of the shoe fromthe machine.

41. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle operated to pass through the upper and between-substance of a shoe substantiallyin the plane of the bottom'of an insole, a channel guide operated to feed the shoe'toward theneedle', a gripper operated to tension the stock, means for imparting teed movements to the gripper during the feed movement of the channel guide, means'for closing the gripper on the stock after the needle has been withdrawn out of engagement with the upper, and manually operable means for releas ing the gripper.

42. In a lastingand sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a gripper fortensioning successive portions of the upper,. and means for efiecting an initial yielding updraw movement of the gripper and a final positive movement.

43. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism'for'sewing an upper to a sole, a gripper, means for imparting updraw movement to the gripper to tension the upper, and means constructed and arranged for adjustment to. render said pulling movement yielding throughout, initially yielding and finally positive, or positive throughout.

44. In a machine of the class described, the combination of a gripper for updrawing suecessive portions of an upper, means for securing the upper in lasted position, said gripper being arranged at an inclination to the plane of the shoe bottom so as to have a component of overdraw movement during its updraw movement,

and means constructed and arranged for ad-' justment to vary the inclination of the gripper with respect to the plane of theshoe bottom. 45. In a machine of the class described,'the

of a shoe in lasted position, a gripper for updrawing successive portions of the upper, an updraw lever to which said gripper is pivoted at its upper end, a swinging arm to which the 1 1 gripper is pivoted between its ends, said pivots being so arranged that the gripper is inclined at an angle of substantially less than ninety degrees to the shoe bottom, and meansarranged for adjustment to vary the effective length of said swinging arm.

46. In a machine of theclass described, the combination of means for securing the upper 01' a shoev in lasted position, a gripper for updrawing successive portions of the upper, an updraw lever to which said gripper is pivoted at itsupper end, an arm to which the gripper is pivoted between its ends, theother end of the arm having a-vertically fixed pivot and the arm being arranged at'an inclination directed upwardly and outwardly withrespect to the shoe bottom, and means arranged for adjus ment to vary the distance getween the pivots of thearm.

47. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means, a gripper for tensioning successive portions 01 an upper over the bottom of a last in position to be sewed by the sewing means, means for imparting updraw movements to the gripper, and means for causing the gripper to be maintained in updrawn position during a plurality of cycles of the sewingmeans.

48. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means, a gripper, an updraw lever for impartingupdraw' movements to the gripper, yielding means through which the gripper is operated to cause it to descend into position to seize the upper, and means for holding the lever substantially in the position which it occupies when the gripper is raised to preven the gripper from engaging the shoe. i

49. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means, a. gripper, an updraw lever forimparting updraw movements to the gripper, a spring through which the gripper is operated to cause the gripper to descend into position to seize the upper, and means for holding the lever. substantially in the position which I fixed pivot at the inner end, the arm and link being so constructed and arranged that the gripper moves heightwise of the shoe with a substantial component of overdraw movement. I 51. In a machine of the class described, the combination of means for securing an upper in lasted position to a sole, an updraw lever, a gripper for tensioning successive portions of an upper to the secured having its upper end pivoted to the outer arrnof said updraw lever, and

a link shorter than the arm of saidlever to which the gripper is pivoted, arranged in ,an upwardly and outwardly inclined initial position with respect to the shoe, and pivoted at its lower end to the gripper near the gripper jaws,

' said links and lever arm'being so proportioned T and arranged that movement of the updraw lever imparts updraw and overdraw movement to the gripper.

52. In a lasting and sewing machine, the com,- bination of-sewing means, means for tensioning ,successiVep rtions of an upper over thebottom or a last in position to be secured by the sewing means, and means' controlled automatically by the machine for rendering the tensioning means inoperative. at. a predetermined time in the operation; of lasting the shoes without interrupting the operationof 'thesewing' means.

. 5;. In a lasting arid sewing machine, the combination of sewing mechanism for securing a shoe upper to a sole, mechanism. for tensioning successive portions I of thefupper step by step prior to 'the. operation oithe sewing mechanism to secure said portions, and means for renderingthe .tensioning mechanism automatica11y; inoperative at a predetermined time in the operation of lasting the shoe while the sewing mechanism continues uninterruptedly in operation.

54. A lasting and sewing machinehaving, in combination, upper tensioning means, sewing mechanism for securing a shoe upper and a sole together, and means controlled automatically by the machine for removing the upper tensioning means to an inoperative position for a predetermined time while the sewing rnechanism continues in operation and thereafter restoring the tensioning means to operative position.

55. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, upper tensioning means, sewing mechanism for securing a shoe. upper and a sole together, and means controlled automatically by the machine forremoving the tensioning means to an inoperative position after a predetermined number of operations of the upper tensioning means have occurred, for holding the upper tensioning means out of operation for a predetermined number or operations of the sewing mechanism' and for then restoring the upper tensioning means' to operative position.

56. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means, a gripper for tension.- ing successive portions of an upper over the bottom of a last in position to be sewed by the sewing means, and meansacting automatically to prevent descent of. the gripper after a p88 determined number of operations of the gripper have occurred.

57. In a lasting and sewing machine, the ,combination of sewing means, 'a gripper for tensioning successive portions of an upper over the bottom of a last in position to be sewed by the sewing means, and means acting automatically to prevent descent of the gripper after a predetermined number of operations of the gripper have occurred, said means acting after a predetermined number of stitches have been taken to restore the gripper to its operative condition.

58. In a lasting and sewing machine, the com bination of sewing means, a gripper for tensionlng successive portions of an upper over the bottom of a last in position to be sewed by the sewing 'means, means acting automatically to prevent descent of the gripperafter a predetermined number oi operations of the gripper have occurred, and means for varying the time in the operation on the shoe at which the automatic means becomes eil'ective to render the tensioning means inoperative.

59. In a lasting and sewing machine, thecom; bination of sewing means, a gripper for tensionlng successive-portions of an. upper over the bottom of a last in position to be sewed by the sewing means, means acting automatically to prevent descent of the gripper after 'a predetermined number of operations of the gripper have. occurred, and eans constructed and arranged tor, adjustment to vary the number or operations imparted to the ,gripperfl before the automatic meansacts toprevent its descent.

60., "Ajflasting and sewing'machine havin in combination, inseam sewing instrumentalities in .cluding a needle, agripper, a wiper, the machine being constructedand arranged to stop, with the needle outofthe work and the .grippeliclosed,

,means operating when the machine is started to cause the'needleto penetrate the upperland insole and the sewing instruinentalities to .form a stitch, means for operating the wipe'r to press "relation to the gripper to wipe the upper inwardly over the feather of the insole and against the shoulder while it is being tensioned.

62. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, a griper for seizing the upper, a

. channel guide, means for operating. the channel guide to feed the work, a wiper, and means for causing the wiper to press the upper toward the channel guide during its feed movement and the gripper to move with the channel guide.

63. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, achannel guide, means for moving the channelguide to feed the work, a gripper, means for imparting upper tensioning movements to the gripper durthe placement of the welt against the upper' in said angle.

65. In a lasting and sewing machine, the comthe upper against the shoulder of the insole ing the movement of the channel guide to feed bination of sewing instrumentalities, a channe.

guide, a welt guide, anda wiper located between the channel guide and the welt guide..

66. ,In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing instrumentalities, upper tensioning means, a welt guide, a wiper, and means for operating the wiper to hold the tensioned' upper in the angle between the shoulder and Ieather'of the insole; the sewing instrumentalities and the welt guide acting to place the welt.

.of said shoulder is ailorded by the channel guide, and means for moving thewiping channel with the channel guide.

68. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing instrumentalities, a channel guide arranged to engage the shoe at the inner side oithe rib or lip of the insole, a wiping ,member arranged outside the upper opposite to the channel guide, and means for effecting mutual approach of the channel guide and wiper to clamp the upper and insole rib or lip together.

' 69. Ina lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing instrumentalities, a channel guide arranged to engage the shoe at the inner side of the rib or lip of the insole, a wiping member arranged outside the'upper opposite to thechannel guide, means for efiecting mutual approach of the channel guide and wiper to clamp the upper and insole rib or lip together, and means for effectingdfeed movement of the channel guide and wiper while clamped. v

701111 a lasting and sewing machine, the combination, of 'sewing mechanism, awiper pivoted above the plane of the-shoe bottom with its lower end movable substantially in the plane of the insole, and means for swinging the wiper to press the upper against the edge faceof the insole and force it into the angle between the shoulder and feather of the insole in position to be secured by a seam located in said angle.

' '71. In'a lasting and sewing machine, the com- :bination of sewing instrumentalities, a channel guide, means for moving the channel guide to feed a shoev to the sewing instrumentalities, a wiper, and means for moving the wiper in conjunction withthe feed movement of the channel,

guide and in the same direction.

72. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing instrumentalities, a channel guide, means for moving the channel guide toward and from the lip of theinsole of a shoe being sewn, a welt guide, a wiper located between the channel guide and the welt guide, and means for operating the wiper simultaneously withthe channel guide and in the opposite direction.

'73. In a machineof the class described, the combination of upper securing means, a wiper movable toward and from the shoe, 2. roll clutch for operating the wiper in one direction, and a spring for operating the wiper in the other direction.

74. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means, means for feeding the shoe, a wiper movable towardand from the shoe, means for operating the wiper, and means for moving the wiper with the shoe as-the shoe is fed and after the wiper has been moved toward the shoe. I

75. In alasting and sewing machine, the combinationof sewing means, a wiper movable toward and from the shoe, a roll clutch for moving the wiper toward the shoe, and a spring for moving the wiper away from the shoe.

76. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means, a wiper. movable toward and from the shoe, a spring for moving the-wiper away from the shoe, and means including a spring and a roller clutch-for'moving the wiper toward the shoe.

, '77. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing instrumentalities, upper tensioning. means, a welt guide, a wiper, a channel guide, means for moving the. channel guide toward and from the lip of the insole of the shoehein'g sewn and for moving the channel guide longitudinally of the shoe edge to feed the shoe,

and means for operating the wiper in opposition to the movement of the channel guide Y toward the lip to'hold the tensioned upper in the angle between the shoulder and feather of the insole,

, 78. In a lasting and sewing machine, the com-- the parts are so bination of sewing instrumentalities, upper tensioning means, a welt guide, a wiper, a channel guide, means for moving the channel guide toward and from the lip of the insole of the shoe being sewn and for moving the channel guide longitudinally of'the shoe edge to feed the shoe, means for operating the wiper in opposition to the movement of the channel guide toward the lip to hold the tensioned upper in the angle between the shoulder and feather of the insole,

and means for imparting to the wiper movement with the channel guide during its feed movement. I n

79. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means, a-wiper, a rock shaft to which the wiper issecured', an arm on the rock shaft having an arcuate face, an arm loose on the rock shaft carrying a roll adapted to engage saidface, an arm loose on the rock shaft and havingan inclined portion adapted, upon movement in one direction, to wedge the roll against said arcuate face, means for oscillating said last-mentioned arm to effect actuation of the wiper in'one direction, and means for returning the wiper upon revers e movement of the actuating arm. w

80. In a lastingand sewing machine, the, combination of sewing means, a wiper, a rock shaft to which the wiper is secured, an arm on the rock shaft having an arcuate face, an arm loose on the rock shaft carrying a roll adapted to engage said face, an arm loose on the rock shaft having an inclined portion adapted, upon movement in one direction, to wedge the roll against said arcuate face, and means for yieldingly actuating the last-mentioned arm to move the wiper toward the shoe.

81.- In a lasting and sewing machine, thecombination of sewing means, means for feeding the shoe, 9. wiper movabletoward and from the shoe, means for operating the wiper, and means for releasing the wiper from its operating means to permit the wiper to be moved away from the shoe during the removal of the shoe and the presentation of another shoe.

82. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means, a wiper movable toward and from the shoe, 9. spring for moving the wiper away from the shoe, means including a roller, clutch for moving the wiper toward the shoe, and means for releasing the clutch to per: mit the wiper to be moved by its spring away from. the shoe to facilitate removal of the shoe and presentation of another shoe.

83. In a lasting and sewing machine, the co bination of sewing means including a needle, a

channel guide constructed and operate'd to feed the shoe the length of a stitch, and a gripper operating to tension successive portions of the :upper prior to the penetration of said portions by the needle, said gripper having jaws widerthan'the length of the feed movement of the channel'guid'e so that all portions of the upper are tensioned priorto their being sewn and portions of the upper are tensioned twice.

84'. In a lasting machine, the combination of continuously operating fastening means, means for tensioning successive portions of an upper heightwise of and over the bottom of a last, I

and means controlled automatically by the machine for rendering the tensioning means inoperative at apredetermined time in the operation of lasting the shoe without interrupting the operation of the fastening means.

. 85. In a lasting machine, the combination of mechanism for securing a shoe upper in lasted relation to a sole, mechanism for tensioning successive portions of the upper step by step heightwise of the last prior to the operation of the securing mechanism to secure said portions, and means controlled automatically by the machine for rendering the tensioning mechanism inoperative at a predetermined time in the operation of lasting the shoe while the securing mechanism continues uninterruptedly in operation.

86. In a lasting machine, the combination of means for tensioning a shoe upper heightwise of a last,-mechanism for securing the upper and a sole together, and means controlled auto matically by the machine for rendering the upper tensioning means inoperative after a predetermined time while the securing mechanism continues automatically in operation and thereafter restoring the tensioning means to operative condition.

87. In a lasting machine, the combination of upper tensioning means, mechanism for securing a shoe upper and a; sole-together, and means controlled automatically by the machine for holdingthe tensioning means in an inoperative position after a predetermined number of operations of the upper tensioning means have occurred and during a predetermined number of operations of the securing mechanism, and for then returning the upper tensioning means .to

operative position. r

88. In a lasting machine, the combination of upper securing means, a gripper having an updraw movement for tensioning successive portions of an upper, and means acting automat-1 ically to prevent descent of .the gripper after a position. i

90. In a lasting machine, the combination of means for inserting fastenings to hold an upper in lasted position, a gripper having an updraw movement for tensioning successive portions of the upper, and means acting automatically to prevent descent of the gripper after a predetermined number of operations of the gripper have occurred, said means having provision for varying the time in the operation on the shoe at which the automatic means becomes eflective to render the tensioning means inoperative.

91. In a lasting machine, the'combination of fastening means, a gripper having an updraw' movement for tensioning successive portions of an upper, and means acting automatically to prevent descent of the gripper after a predetermined number of" operations of the gripper have occured, said means being constructed to permit variation of a number of operations imparted to the gripper before the automatic means acts to prevent its descent- 92. In. a lasting machine, the combination of fastening means, a gripper having an updra'w movement fortensioningsuccessive portions of an upper, means acting automatically to prevent descent of the gripper after-a predetermined number of operations of the gripperhave occurred, and means whereby the number of operations imparted to the gripper before the automatic means. acts to prevent its descent may be varied.

93. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism ineluding a curved needle, .shoe feeding means, means for tensioning-an upper over the bottom of ahlast, and means to 0 rate .the ,tensioning means to tension the upper n conjunction with the operation of the feeding means to feed the shoe, said feed movement occurring before the needle enters the work.

94., A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination," stitch forming mechanism, means for feeding a shoe, a gripper for tensioning suecessive portions of the shoe upper over the' bottom of a last,. and means for eifecting updraw movements of the gripper during the feed movement of the shoe.

95. A lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism,'a gripper for tensioning successive portions of an upper overa last; means for feeding a shoe, and means for simultaneously operating the gripper 'to updraw and overdraw. the upper and to move the gripper with -.the shoe while the shoe is being fed.

96. In a lasting and sewing macl ine, the combination of a curved hook needle, mechanism cooperating with the needle tohform a chain stitch, a gripper, means for imparting upper tensioning movements to the gripper to work successive portions of the upper into lasted position over the bottom oi the shoe, and feed- 1 .ing means acting to advance the shoe past the needle during the tensioning movements of the gripper and before the needle enters the work. 97.1n a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism in- 1 eluding a curved needle, means for imparting to the needle movement in. a curved path to cause it to penetrate the upper and insole lip, shoe feeding means, upper tensioni'ng means, and means to operate the tensioning means to 1 tension the upper in coniunction with the operation of the feeding means to feed the shoe, the

tensioning of the upperoc'curring before and.

being maintained until ai'terthe needle enters the work. 98. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing mechanism, means for feeding a shoe past thesewing mechanism, a gripper operated to tension the upper over the bottom of a last, and means for im- 3 .parting feed movements to the gripper during the feed. movement of the shoe, the gripper continuing to hold the upper after'the feed movement of .the shoe has ceased and until control of the upper is assumed by the sewing mechanism.

99. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing means including-a curved hook needle, a gripper constructed and operated to tension the upper while the needle is 1 withdrawn from the work, means organized to bring the machine to rest with the needle withdrawn from the work, and means for opening the gripper to facilitate removal of the shoe from the machine.

100.. A lasting machine having, in combination, progressively operating upper pulling means for working different portions of an upper along the edge of a shoe bottom mm 5 relation to-an insole on a'last. fastening inserting means for securing each overworked portion successively to the insole, and means operating in time relation to said upper pulling means and said fastening inserting.

means for rendering said upper pulling means inoperative after a predetermined number of.

operations of said fastening inserting means.

means and fastening inserting means for worki ing successive portions of an upper along the edge of a shoe bottom into lasted relation to an insole on a last and for securing them in lasted position, and means constructed to operate in time relation to said fastening inserting means for rendering said upper pulling means operative after a predetermined number of cycles of operation ofsaid fastening inserting means.

102. In a machine of the class described, thecombination of means for securing the upper of a shoe in lasted position, a gripper comprising fixed and movable jaws for pulling successive portions of the upper, a gripper actuating lever to which said gripper is pivoted at its upper end, an arm extending rearwardly and upwardly from the gripper and pivoted thereto at its upper end, an arm pivoted to the gripper.

mm No. 1,966,479,

ARTHUR BATES.

camera or common.

ltiaj 'ereby certified that error appears .in the printed specification of the above'nlnhered patent requiring correction as follows: Page 1, line 33, for

adjacent to its jaws, the other end of said arm having a vertically fixed pivot above and at the rear of the gripper, the am being thereby arranged at an inclination directed upwardly and outwardly with respect to the shoe bottom, and meansior actuating the updraw lever to impart-updraw and overdraw movements to the gripper. 1

104. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing instrumentalities including a'curved hook needle, a lasting gripper comprising'jaws arranged toengage the upper close to the sewing point, an arm extending rearwardly from the gripper and having a vertically fixed pivot, the arm being arranged at an inclination directed upwardly and outwardly w'th respect to the shoe bottom to cause the arm to impart a-cornbined updraw and overdraw movement'to the gripper, and means for'actuating the gripper to tension the upper-in time relation to the operation of the sewing instrumentalities.

105. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing instrumentalities including a curved hook needle, a lasting gripper comprising jaws arranged to engage the upper close to the sewing point, an arm to which the gripper is pivoted between its ,ends, the other end of the arm having a vertically fixed pivot and the arm being arranged at an inclination dijrected upwardly and outwardly with respect to AR'I'HU R BATES.

July 17, 1934-.

thewords "sole to"freod to the sole of; and line 78, for "freed" read feed;

an: the said-Letters :P'uent should be read with these corrections therein fthet' the cane may conform tothe record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed'nnd celled this 11th do; of September, D. 1934.

Leslie Frazer Actingconlniseioner of Patenteserting means for securing each overworked portion successively to the insole, and means operating in time relation to said upper pulling means and said fastening inserting.

means for rendering said upper pulling means inoperative after a predetermined number of.

operations of said fastening inserting means.

means and fastening inserting means for worki ing successive portions of an upper along the edge of a shoe bottom into lasted relation to an insole on a last and for securing them in lasted position, and means constructed to operate in time relation to said fastening inserting means for rendering said upper pulling means operative after a predetermined number of cycles of operation ofsaid fastening inserting means.

102. In a machine of the class described, thecombination of means for securing the upper of a shoe in lasted position, a gripper comprising fixed and movable jaws for pulling successive portions of the upper, a gripper actuating lever to which said gripper is pivoted at its upper end, an arm extending rearwardly and upwardly from the gripper and pivoted thereto at its upper end, an arm pivoted to the gripper.

mm No. 1,966,479,

ARTHUR BATES.

camera or common.

ltiaj 'ereby certified that error appears .in the printed specification of the above'red patent requiring correction as follows: Page 1, line 33, for

adjacent to its jaws, the other end of said arm having a vertically fixed pivot above and at the rear of the gripper, the am being thereby arranged at an inclination directed upwardly and outwardly with respect to the shoe bottom, and meansior actuating the updraw lever to impart-updraw and overdraw movements to the gripper. 1

104. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing instrumentalities including a'curved hook needle, a lasting gripper comprising'jaws arranged toengage the upper close to the sewing point, an arm extending rearwardly from the gripper and having a vertically fixed pivot, the arm being arranged at an inclination directed upwardly and outwardly w'th respect to the shoe bottom to cause the arm to impart a-cornbined updraw and overdraw movement'to the gripper, and means for'actuating the gripper to tension the upper-in time relation to the operation of the sewing instrumentalities.

105. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing instrumentalities including a curved hook needle, a lasting gripper comprising jaws arranged to engage the upper close to the sewing point, an arm to which the gripper is pivoted between its ,ends, the other end of the arm having a vertically fixed pivot and the arm being arranged at an inclination dijrected upwardly and outwardly with respect to AR'I'HU R BATES.

July 17, 1934-.

thewords "sole to"freod to the sole of; and line 78, for "freed" read feed;

an: the said-Letters :P'uent should be read with these corrections therein fthet' the cane may conform tothe record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed'nnd celled this 11th do; of September, D. 1934.

Leslie Frazer Actingconlniseioner of Patente-

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