US1861653A - Machine for operating on stitchdown shoes - Google Patents

Description

Julie 7, 1932. A. BATES 1,361,653

MACHINE FOR OPERATING ON STITCHDOWN SHOES Filed June 1. 1951 l I I Patented June 7, 1932 QNYEE ARTHUR BATES, 0F LEICESTER, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF .PATEESON, NEVJ JERSEY, A GORPORATIQN OF NEW-JERSEY MACHINE FOR OPERATENG 0N STITCHDOWN SHOES Application filed June 1, 1931, Serial No. 541,234, and in Great Britain June 1'7, 1930.

This invention relates to machines for operating upon stitchdown shoes and is illustrated herein as embodied in a machine for lasting and permanently securing uppers of boots and shoes of the stitchdown type to their soles by a progressive operation. For the purpose of exemplification merely, the invention is herein shown and described as embodied in a lasting and sewing machine of the type disclosed in United States Letters Patents No. 1,198,405 granted September 19, 1916, on my application, No. 1,209,659 granted December 26, 1916, on application of Bates and Gouldbourn, No. 1,321,148 granted November 11, 1919, on application of Fred Ricks, and No. 1,544,850 granted June 16, 1925, on application of Ricks and lVoodcock.

In operating machines of this type as heretofore constructed, an upper and sole assembled on their last are presented to the machine with the mar ins of the upper and sole resting on the work support of the machine. T he margin of the upper projects rearwardly of the work support and beyond the edge of the sole so that it can be gripped by a gripper operating at the rear of the work support which seizes the portion of the upper projecting beyond the edge of the sole and pulls the upper, over the work support, tightly around the last. The gripper holds the upper under tension while a curved awl pricks the tensioned upper and the sole and while the work is fed by the awl and the grippers. After the work is fed, the presser-foot of the machine clamps the sole margin and the stretched upper against the work support while a lockstitch is formed through the upper and sole by a curved needle. After the upper and sole have been thus secured together in this manner by step-by-step pulling and stitch forming operations, the margin of the upper which projects beyond the sole has to be trimmed off and the trimmedoii material is wasted.

One of the several objectsof the present invention is to prevent or minimize such waste of upper material byproviding mechanism for lasting and sewing stitchdown shoes the uppers of which have been so out before the lasting and sewing that their margins project very little if at all beyond'the edge of the sole and, therefore, cannot be effectively .gripped'by-a gripper of the type disclosed in the above-mentioned patents.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a lasting and sewing machine which, with a minimum of adjustment or change of parts, will operate effectively both upon stitchdowns of the type which, when they come to the machine, have an upper sufficiently full to allow the margin thereof to project well beyond the edge of the sole and upon stitchdowns of the type in which the upper is so scant that the margin thereof projects very little it at all beyond the edge of the sole.

The illustrated machine embodying the present invention is provided with means, illustrated as a work support, for working, tucking or crowdingthe projecting margin of an upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of a sole, and with a member arranged at'the rear of the support or outwardly with respect to the shoe which is operated upon to engage, in said angle, the portion of upper whichlies against the projecting marginof the sole, to press the upper against the sole and to pull or wipe the upper outwardly, thus causing it to be drawn over the work support and tightly about the last. In the illustrated machine, the wiping member is constituted by one jaw of a gripper the jaws of which, in accordance with the present invention, are, inone mode of operation, given mutual movements of approach to each other to grip an upper and bodily rearward movement to tension the upper. To effect the above described wiping operation, one of the gripper jaws, for example the lower jaw, may be made to extend forwardly beyond the upper jaw so that in its closing movement it will pressthe upper against the projecting margin of the sole and by its rearward movement it will wipe and tension the upper over the work support.

- Since this organization is particularly effective when operating upon shoes the uppers of which are cut soscant that they do not, even when lasted, project substantially beyond the edge of the sole and cannottherefore be gripped between the gripper jaws, means is provided in the illustrated machine for preventing closing movement of the opposed gripper jaw, illustrated as the upper jaw, without affecting the closing movement of the other jaw, illustrated as the lower jaw, and without affecting the bodily rearward movement of the gripper as a whole. For permitting and preventing the closing movement of the upper jaw, the illustrated machine is provided with operator-controlled means which can be operated during operation of the machine.

In order that the projecting lower jaw may operate effectively upon the outturned margin of the upper which lies against the projecting margin of the sole, the work support may be made of very small extent from front to rear so as to expose the outturned portion of the upper opposite to the projecting margin of'the sole to the wiping and pulling action of the lower jaw, the support serving, however, to hold the upper in the apex of the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole and against the side of thelast.

In order to eliminate the effect of an un desirable drag of the work support on the upper during the feed of the work while the projecting lower jaw is pressing upwardly upon the upper, means is provided in the illustrated machine for effecting a movement of the gripper in the direction of feed prior to the feed of the work. As illustrated, the

i work is fed by bodily movement of a curved awl after it has penetrated the work and a cam operated by the work penetrating movement of the awl carrying segment acts upon the gripper to move it slightly in the direction of feed before the awl moves in the direction of feed.

hen operating upon full uppers, that is, uppers the margins of which when tucked into the angle by the work support will project sufliciently beyond the edge of the sole to enable them to be seized by the gripper, the lower jaw is made to project little, if at all, beyond the upper jaw and closing movement of the upper jaw is permitted so that the jaws will act to seize the portion of upper which projects beyond the edge of the sole and, during their bodily rearward movement, will tension the upper over the work support. For this purpose a work support having the usual extent from front to rear may be provided.

In the operation of lasting and sewing shoes with full or with scant uppers, in going around certain portions of the shoe, for example the heel end, the operation of the grippers is not desired, and in lasting and sewing other portions of the shoe, for example the shank and the first side of the 'forepart, only limited pulling movement of the gripper is advantageous. Accordingly, the illustrated machine is provided with operatorcontrolled means for varying during operation of the machine the pulling movement of the gripper and for rendering the gripper inoperative to grip the upper by preventing the closing movement of one of its jaws, for example, as illustrated, the upper jaw.

In order toadapt the machine for operating upon shoes having scant uppers or upon shoes having full uppers, the illustrated construction provides for convenient adjustment of the'lower jaw from a position in which it projects forwardly beyond the upper aw to adapt it for operation on scant uppers, to a position in which it projects little if at all beyond the upper jaw to adapt it for operation upon full uppers, that is, uppers which project beyond the edge of the sole.

These and other features of the invention will be apparent from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawing and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of the head of a stitchdown lasting and sewing machine embodying the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a front elevation of parts shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line IIIIII of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a plan view on an enlarged scale of the work support and adjacent operating instrumentalities Fig. 5 is a side elevation, partly in section, showing adjusting means for the lower jaw;

Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic view, partly in section, showing the operating instrumentalities of the machine as organized for operating on shoes having scant uppers; and

Fig. 7 is a similar view showing the operating instrumentalities of the machine as organized for operating on shoes having full uppers.

The illustrated machine, as organized for lasting and sewing stitchdown shoes having full or scant uppers, has in general the organization of the machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,198,405 referred to above. For work on scant uppers a work support 8 has a thin work supporting bar portion 10 the front and upper faces of which are in the same position in relation to an awl 11 and needle 13 as are the front and upper faces of the support as usually constructed. To effect this, the portion of the usual support 15 (Fig. 7) at the rear of the usual slot through which the needle and awl pass is removed.

The gripper of the machine embodying the present invention is constructed and arranged so that, during the operation of the machine, the lower jaw 12 is moved yieldingly upwardly and the upper jaw 14 may at times be moved downwardly yieldingly toward the lower jaw as the gripper is closed. The lower jaw 12 is detachably fixed to a lower jaw carrier 16 which is pivoted at 18 in a recess tween the aw carrier 24 and the jaw 14 is such that, upon loosening the screw 22, the jaw may be adjusted somewhat forwardly and rearwardly of the machine. The jaws 12 and 14 may be readily removed without dismantling any parts of the machine for renewal or, in the case of the lower jaw, for a purpose to be explained. he lower jaw carrier 16 has on it a projection 28 on which a leaf spring 30 fixed to the gripper bar 20 bears and tends to press down the rear end of the lower jaw carrier 16 into contact with the bar 20 and hence tends to raise its forward end. The lower jaw car- 1 16 has formed on it a lug 32 which proects over a lug 34 on the upper jaw carrier 24.

The upper jaw carrier 24 is pivotally connected at 36 by a universal oint to the lower end of a rod 38 the upper end of which passes freely through a bore in a block 40 and has at its upper end a nut 42 and lock nut 44. A spring 46 surrounds the rod 38 and is confined between the block 40 and the forked lower end of the rod 38. The block 40 is pivoted at 48 to a fork formed on the end of a spindle 50 which is rotatably mounted in a cam lever 52 so that the block 40 has universal connection with the lever 52. The lever 52 is pivotally connected at 54 to an arm 56 which is pivoted at 58 to the machine frame and formed in the lever is a square against the flange 66. The rear end of the rod 64 and the parts carried thereby pass freely through an opening in the arm 56. The cylindrical block 68 has formed in each side of it a recess, which recesses receive the rounded forked ends of a lever 72 pivoted on a shaft 74 fixed in the machine frame. The lower end of the lever 72 is connected by a universal joint 7 6 to the rear end of the gripper bar 20. The gripper bar 20 is supported at its forward end by a link 78 which is mounted on a barrel-shaped eccentric stud 80 fixed to a usual awl carrying feed slide 82. By rotating the stud 80, the lower gripper jaw, and the gripper bar 20 with it, may be adjusted heightwise in relation to the work support 10. The link 7 8 is connected to the gripper bar 20 by a coupling 84 which is pivoted to the gripper bar at 86 and has a depending stud 88 rotatably mounted in the link 78, one of the pivots of the coupling 84, for example 86, having a barrel shapesimilar to that of the stud 80 to provide for tipping of the link 7 8 relatively to the bar 20 in the direction of feed.

As the cam shaft 62 rotates in the direction of the arrow from the position shown in Fig. 1, the lever 52 is first moved rearwardly and, through the flange 66 and block 68, positively swings the lever 72 in a counterclockwise direction about the shaft 7 4, thus moving the gripper bar 20- and the jaws 12 and 14 forwardly toward the work support 10. The front end of the lever 52 is then,

lowered about the pivot 54 and during the first part of this movement the rear ends of the upper and lower jaw carriers 16 and are lowered about the pivot 18 by the downward thrust of the rod 38 and the action of "he spring 30, the front ends of the jaw carriers being raised. This action continues until a face 90 on the lower jaw carrier 16 engages the bottom of the recess in the gripper bar 20 in which the carriers 16 and 24 are arranged, the spring 80 insuring that this downward movement of the carriers shall occur before closing movement of the upper jaw of the gripper oc urs. ll hen the face 90 has come into engagement with the bot-- tom of the recess in the gripper bar 20, the work engaging face of the lower jaw has risen to a point just above the upper face or edge of the work support 10 and has brought the margin of the upper, assumed to be projecting over the work support and between the jaws, to that level (Fig. 6). After the downward movement of the rear ends of the gripper carriers ceases, continued downward movement of the lever 52 moves the upper gripper jaw carrier 24 about its pivot 26 to close the gripper jaws on the margin of the upper if the upper is full enough to extend between them. Continued downward movement of the forward end of the lever 52 after the gripper has been closed on the work compresses the spring 46, compression of which compensates for differences in the thickness of the upper materials. As the shaft 62 continues to rotate, the lever 52 is moved forwardly by the cam 66 and swings the lever T2 in a clockwise direction on its shaft 74, thereby drawing the gripper rearwardly to pull the upper. The strength of the pull on the upper may be varied by adjusting the spring 70 through which the pull on the upper is imparted and which, in any event, yields after the lever 72 has engaged an adjustable stop 92 if the lever moves to that extent. When the grippers are closed, the lugs 32 and 34 separate and, when the grippers are opened by the upward movement of the lever 52, which occurs as the rotation Ill;

of an inch when the jaws are closed. The gripper occupies the same position laterally of the machine relatively to the awl and needle as is disclosed in Patent No. 1,198,405, referred to above. By reason of the reduction in width from front to rear of the work supporting portion of the work support and of the forward projection of the lower gripper jaw relatively to the upper jaw, the lower jaw in its advanced position is actually so close to the last that it is in the paths of the awl and needle when these are viewed in the direction of the axis about which they swing.

In the illustrated machine, according to the present invention, a link 94 is connected to a member 96 rotatably mounted on the shaft 74. The member 96 is pivotally connected at 98 to a rod 100 which has a sliding connection with a rod 102, there being a compression spring 104 interposed between the two rods. The rod 102 is pivotally connected at 106 to a rod 108 which is slidably mounted in the upper jaw carrier 24 and has on its end a block 110. The'block 110 may be moved from the position shown in Fig. 1, in which position of the block the gripper can close and open during the operation of the machine, to a position between the upper jaw carrier 24 and a face 112 on the lower jaw carrier 16, in which position the block prevents the gripper from closing during the operation of the machine while permitting the characteristic movement of the lower jaw.

In the illustrated machine operator-controlled mechanism is provided for adjusting the block 110 during operation of the machine into and out of position to prevent closing movement of the gripper by preventing closing movement of the upper jaw and for adjusting the stop 92 to vary the pulling movements of the gripper. This mechanism, which in general is similar to that disclosed in Patent No. 1,209,659 referred to above, comprises a laterally movable knee lever 114 fulcrumed at 115 and having at its rear end a suitable connection to one arm of a bellcrank lever 116 the other arm of which is connected by a rod 117 to a vertically movable slide 118 whereby lateral movements of the knee lever impart vertical movements to the slide. In the lower portion of the slide 118 is a slot 120 engaging a pin or roll 121 lever 78 to limit its rearward movement and hence to limit the pulling movement of the gripper, the slot 120 being so shaped that upon still further movement of the slide in the same direction the stop 92 will be retracted progressively to increase the pulling movement imparted to the gripper. A bell crank lever 126 is pivoted at 128 to the frame, one arm of the lever carrying a pin or roll 129 engaging aslot 130 in the slide 118 and the other arm of the bell crank 126 is, pivoted to the link 94 so that movement of the bell crank lever 126 in a counterclockwise direction (Fig. 1) will cause the member 96 to be rotated in a clockwise direction and hence the block 110 to be moved over the face 112 to prevent closing movement of the upper gripper jaw. The upper portion of the slot 130 is vertical so that during the first part of the upward movement of the slide 118 no movement will be imparted to the bell crank lever 126 but the stop 92 will be operated. Further movement of the slide 118, however, after the stop 92 has reached the limit of its forward movement, causes an inclined portion of the slot 130 to operate the bell crank lever 126 and move the block 110 into position to prevent closing movement of the upper gripper jaw. Still further movement of the slide serves to control the rearward movement of the lower jaw while the jaws remain open.

As shown in Fig. 5, the lower gripper aw may be constructed and arranged for quick adjustment forwardly and rearwardly of the machine so as to position its gripping portion either substantially in vertical alinement with the forward end of the upper jaw or so that the gripping face of the jaw projects a considerable distance forwardly beyond the gripping face of the upper jaw, the amount of this projection being, for example, about of an inch. To this end, a lower jaw 140, as shown in Fig. 5, has formed in it a slot 142 through which passes the pivot pin 18 of the lower jaw carrier. The slot 142 in the lower jaw is substantially horizontal and at each end of it at its upper side has extending from it a semi-circular recess 144 to receive the pivot pin 18. One or the other of the two recesses 144 is held in engagement with the pivot pin 18 by a leaf spring 146 fixed to the lower jaw carrier 16 and bearing on the lower gripper jaw. The jaw 140 has in it a second slot 148 through which passes a pin 150 fixed in the lower jaw carrier 16. By lifting the lower jaw it may be moved forwardly or rearwardly of the machine and when released the leaf spring 146 will cause one or the other of the recesses 144 to engage the pin 18 and hold the jaw in position during operation of the machine.

The pivot pin 18 is arranged in such a position on the gripper bar that as the lower jaw carrier 16 is swung on the pivot 18 to move the lower jaw toward the upper jaw, the lower jaw moves considerably forwardly of the machine as well as upwardly and thus enters well into the angle between the side of the last and the outturned margin of the upper before begins to move rearwardly.

The machine is preferably equipped with an upper bedding member 152- (Fig. l) constructed and operated substantially as disclosed in Patent No. 1,321,148 mentioned above. In the illustrated machine, the bedding member 152 is cut away at the rear of its work engaging portion so as to provide clearance for the projecting gripper jaw so that the portion of the bedding member adj acent to the gripper aw has an extent from front to rear substantially equal to that of the work suppor 10, for example about of an inch. Withthis construction the gripper jaw 12 can project beneath the margin of the sole and engage the margin of the upper which projects rearwardly beyond the narrow portions of the work support and the bedding member.

The machine is preferably equipped with a sole straightening member 154 constructed and operated as dislosed in Patent No. 1521,1 18 or as disclosed in Patent No. 1,541,850, both mentioned above.

To adapt the machine for sewing and lasting stitchdown shoes having full uppers, that is, shoes in which the upper extends beyond the edge of the sole, the above-described lower jaw shown in Fig. 1 is exchanged for a shorter aw or, if the construction shown in Fig. 5 is used, the lower jaw is thrust back so that the forward edge of the lower jaw, when the gripper is closed, will be in alinement with the forward edge of the upper aw or will project slightly in front of it. Preferably, too, a work support 15 similar to that disclosed in Patent No. 1,321,148, above re ferred to, will be provided, as indicated in T. The machine is then ready for last ing and sewing stitchdown shoes which have the iargin of the upper projecting far enough beyond the sole edge to be gripped by the gripper, it being understood that the upper jaw operates entirely at the rear of the ed of the sole margin. A welt introduced through an opening 151 in the bedding member 152 may be sewed on in conjunction with the operation of lasting and sewing the upper to the sole.

To ada he machine for lasting and sewface ing stitchdown shoes having scant uppers, that is, uppers which will not, even when lasted, project beyond the edge face of the role, the lower gripper aw is changed for a longer one or, when the construction shown in i ig. 5 is used, the lower jaw is pulled foru. so that it projects about of an inch in front of the upper jaw, as shown in Fig. 6, and the work support 10 shown in Fig. 1 is restored to the machine. The welt is also preferably withdrawn from the welt guide 151 in the member 152. By thus providing a projecting lower jaw and an appropriate work support, the machine is ready for lasting and sewing stitchdowns in which the upper is cut so that it does not project substantially beyond the sole edge and which do not have a. welt attached to the outturned margin of the upper. VVheu the machine is in the position to receive an upper and sole on their last, whether the machine is arranged to last and sew one or the other kind of stitchdown shoe above referred to, the curved hooked needle 13 and the awl 11 are respectively above and below the work support and the gripper is back and open, the control slide 118 being at this time adjusted by the knee lever 114 in position to hold the block 110v forward between the upper jaw carrier and the face 112 of the lower jaw carrier and the stop 92 being forward so that the gripper receives only a very short movement in the direction of pull.

The work is presented to the machine so that the operation commences at about the heel breast and proceeds along the shank toward the beginning of the forepart. Supposing a stitchdown shoe having a scant upper to be thus presented to the machine and the machine started, the outturned portion of the upper and the projecting portion of the sole will be yieldingly held between the work support 10 and a presser-foot 157 (Fig. 6) the upper being tucked or crowded by the support 10 into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole. The forward end of the lower gripper jaw carrier ismoved forward and raised to bring the lower jaw into engagement with the margin of the upper and to thrust the upper up against the sole margin which is being held down by the presser-foot 157. The lower gripper jaw is then moved rear wardly and wipes the upper rearwardly across the sole margin and pulls it around the work support, thus drawing it tightly to the last. To enhance this wiping and pulling effect of the lower gripper jaw, its upper engaging face is preferably provided with serrations 158, as shown in Fig. 5. After the lower aw of the open gripper has thus by its rearward movement pulled the wiped upper tight about the last, it is moved about of an inch in the direction of feed before the awl 11 enters the tensioned upper, so that the'lower jaw may exert a slight pull onthe upper along the last in the direction of feed to prevent drag of the work support on the upper as the shoe is later fed over it, this drag having a resultant undesirable effect when the upper has, as in this case, not been seized by both jaws of the gripper but is merely being pressed against the sole margin by the lower jaw of the gripper. To move the gripper in this manner, there is formed upon an awl carrying segment 159 (Figs. 1 and 2) a cam face 160 which, before the awl enters the work, engages a cam face 161 on the link 7 8 and moves the upper end of the link and the gripper in the direction of feed. A spring 162 fixed to the feed slide 82 acts when the awl retires to return the link 7 8 and hence the gripper bar 20 to their normal position in the direction of feed. After the awl has entered the work, the gripper continues as usual to move with the awl in the direction of feed and, since its lower jaw is pressing upwardly against the sole margin, it assists in feeding the work. The stitch is then formed in the usual manner.

It will be understood, however, that when the machine is started for sewing along the shank portion of a stitchdown shoe having a full upper, the lower jaw of the gripper is incapable of exercising any pulling or feeding effect upon the upper since, though the gripper is moved in the same way, any upper material which may project beyond the sole edge is unsupported from above.

When, in the lasting and sewing of stitchdown shoes having scant uppers, the joint between the shank and forepart is reached, the slide 118 is moved by the knee lever to its mid position, thus moving the block 110 from between the upper jaw carrier 24 and the face 112 to allow the grippers to close but to retain the stop 92 substantially in the same position. The lasting and sewing operation then continues along the forepart, the upper being only slightly pulled by being gripped by the gripper if stitchdowns of the type having full uppers are being operated upon or, if stitchdown shoes of the type having scant uppers are being operated upon, the upper being either wiped and gripped or merely wiped by the grippers according to the amount of upper available. When the operation of lasting and sewing reaches the beginning of the toe portion, the slide 118 is moved by the knee lever-to a lower position, in which position the grippers still open and close, but the stop 92 is moved back to give the grippers full pulling capacity. The lasting and sewing are then continued around the toe and along the forepart at the opposite side until the ball line is reached. During the lasting and sewing the upper is pulled over the work support and drawn tight to the last in either of the ways above referred to and the member 154; operates to straighten the sole in the usual manner. When the ball line is reached, the knee lever is moved to raise the slide 118 to its highest position and the shank portion is lasted and sewn in a manner similar to that in which the shank portion on the other side of the shoe was sewn. If the lasting and sewing are continued around the heel end of the lasted and sewn, the lower gripper jaw may project slightly in front of the upper jaw and it will therefore be observed that when stitchdowns of this character are being operated on, even if the margin of the upper does not project beyond the sole edge, the

upper may be engaged and pulled somewhat by the lower jaw, the lower jaw being so shaped that when the gripper is moved for ward the front end of the lower j aw is at one side of the work support so that the lower jaw can press the margin of the upper up against the sole, the jaw being, 'of course, moved back before any feed takes place. This projection of the lower jaw forwardly of the upper jaw does not affect the laying of the welt.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of means for crowding the upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, a member for engaging the upper in said angle, means for operating said member to force it toward the upper and to move it rearwardly to tension the upper outwardly of the shoe, and means for securing the upper and sole together while the upper is so tensioned.

2. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of means for working an upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, a member for engaging the outturned margin of the upper opposite to the projecting margin of the sole and acting to tension the upper over the working means, and means for securing'the upper and sole together.

3. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of means for crowding successive portions of the upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, a member for engaging each portion of the upper in said angle, means for operating said member to force it toward the upper and to move it rearwardly to tension the upper outwardly of the shoe, and means for sewing a seam progressively through the successive portions of the upper so tensioned and through the sole.

4. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of means for tucking the upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, said member engaging the upper at its apex and along one side, a member for engaging the upper in said angle at the side not engaged by the tucking means, means for operating said member to force it toward the upper and to move it rearwardly to tension the upper outwardly of the shoe, and means for secu ing the upper and sole together while the upper is so tensioned.

5. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of sewing means including an awl and needle, means for working an upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, and a member for engaging the outturned margin of the upper and acting to wipe outwardly successive portions of the upper to tension the upper over the working means as the sewing operation progresses.

6. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of means for working an upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, said means engaging the upper at the apex of the angle and along the side of the angle next to the last, a member for engaging the outturned margin of the upper at the side of the angle next to the sole, means for operating the member to tension the upper over the working means, and means for securing the upper and sole together.

7. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of sewing means including curved awl and needle, a work support adapted to enter the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole and to tuck the upper into said an le, and a member for engaging the outturned margin of the upper and acting by movement toward the sole and movement outwardly of the shoe to tension the upper in conjunction with the operation of the sewing means.

8. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of a work support adapted to enter the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole to tuck the upper into the apex of said angle and to hold the upper against the side of the last, a member for engaging the outturned margin of the upper in said angle, and means for operating said member to move it toward the sole and outwardly of the shoe to tension the upper.

A stitchdown lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, a work support of small extent from front to rear, a gripper located at the rear of the support, one jaw of the gripper projecting beyond the other jaw into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole to engage the upper in said angle, means for effecting mutual closing movement of the jaws and for moving them real-wardly, and means for sewing the outturned upper to the projecting margin of the sole.

10. A stitchdown lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, a work support to engage the shoe in the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, a gripper comprising upper and lower jaws located at the rear of the support, the lower jaw of the gripper projecting beyond the upper jaw into said angle, means for effecting mutual closing movement of the jaws and for moving them rearwardly, and means for forming stitches through the upper and sole adjacent to the point sustained by the work support.

11. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of a work support adapted to enter the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole and to tuck the upper into said angle, and a member for engaging the outturned margin of the upper and acting by movement toward the sole and movement outwardly of the shoe to tension the upper.

12. A machine for operating on stitchdown shoes having, in combination, a work support, a gripper located at the rear of the support, one jaw of the gripper projecting beyond the upper jaw and into the angle be tween the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, and means for effecting mutual closing movement of the jaws and for moving them rearwardly whereby an upper that projects beyond the edge of the sole will be gripped between the jaws and pulled and an upper that is so scant that it does not project beyond the sole edge will be engaged and wiped outwardly of the shoe by the projectthe jaws, and means for moving them rearwardly when closed whereby an upper projecting beyond the sole edge will be seized and pulled and an upper that does not project beyond the sole edge will be engaged by tie lower jaw and wiped outwardly of the s 0e.

14. A stitchdown lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism acting to secure together the outturned margin of the upper and the projecting margin of the sole, a work support, a gripper located at the rear of the support,'the lower jaw of the gripper projecting beyond the upper jaw into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, means for effecting movement of both jaws of the gripper to close the jaws, and means for moving them rearwardly when closed whereby an uppper projecting beyond the sole edge will be seized andpulled and an upper that does not project beyond the sole edge will be engaged by the lower jaw and wiped outwardly of the shoe prior to the action of the sewing mechanism.

15. A stitchdownlasting and sewing machine having, in combination, a work support to engage the upper and hold it in the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole and against the side of the last, a gripper located at the rear of the support, one jaw of the gripper projecting beyond the. other jaw into said angle, means for effecting movement of both jaws of the gripper to close the jaws, and means for moving them rearwardly when closed where by an upper projecting beyond the sole edge will be seized and pulled and an upper that does not project beyond the sole will be engaged by the lower jaw and wiped outwardly of the shoe.

16. A stitchdown lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, a work support for holding the upper in the angle be tween the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole and against the last, a gripper located at the rear of the support, one jaw of the gripper projecting beyond the upper jaw and into said angle, and means for efiecting mutual closing movement of the jaws and for moving them rearwardly whereby an upper that projects beyond the edge of the sole will be gripped between the jaws and pulled and an upper that is so scant that it does not project beyond the sole edge will i be engaged and wiped outwardly of the shoe by the projecting aw. i

17 A stitchdown lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming means acting progressively to secure the outturned margin of the upper to the projecting margin of the sole, a work support, a gripper located at the rear of the support, one aw of the gripper projecting beyond the upper aw and into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, and means for effecting mutual closing movements of the jaws and for moving them rearwardly whereby successive portions of an up per that projects beyond the edge of the sole will be grippped between the jaws and pulled and successive portions of an upper that is so scant that it does not project beyond the sole edge will be engaged and wiped outwardly of the shoe by the projecting aw.

18. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of a work support adapted to enter the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, a gripper having jaws constructed and arranged for mutual closing movement, and means for moving one jaw toward and from the work support, one jaw being constructed and arranged for adjustment relatively to the other jaw from a position substantially flush with the other jaw to a position in which it projects substantially for- Ward of the other jaw and into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting -margin of the sole, the machine in one adj ustment of the jaw being adapted for gripping a full upper that projects beyond the margin shoes having, in combination, a work support,

a gripper located at the rear of the support, one jaw of the gripper proj ecting beyond the other jaw into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, and means for effecting mutual closing movement of the jaws and for moving them rearwardly.

20. In a lasting machine, a. lasting gripper, means for effecting mutual closing movements of the gripper jaws, and means for preventing closing movement of one j aw without affecting the closing movement of the other jaw.

21. In a lasting machine, a lasting gripper, means for moving the gripper longitudinally substantially in the plane of the gripping faces of the jaws to tension an upper, means for effecting mutual closing movements of the gripper jaws prior to their longitudinal movement, and means for arresting movement of one of the jaws without affecting the movement of the other jaw or the movement of the gripper as a whole.

22. In a lasting machine, a lasting gripper, means for effecting mutual closing move ments of the gripper jaws, and means under control of the operator for preventing during operation of the machine closing movement of one jaw without affecting the closing movement of the other jaw.

23. In a lasting machine, means for securing an upper to a sole, a lasting gripper, means for supporting a shoe, means for effecting mutual closing movements of the gripper jaws, and means for preventing closing movement of one jaw without affecting closing movement of the other jaw.

24. In a lasting machine, a lasting gripper, means for moving the gripper longitudinally substantially in the plane of the gripping faces of the jaws to tension an upper, means for efiecting mutual closing movements of the gripper jaws prior to their longitudinal movement, and operator-controlled means for arresting movement of one of the jaws without affecting the movement of the other jaw or the movement of the gripper as a whole.

25. In a lasting machine, a lasting gripper, means for moving the gripper longitudinally substantially in the plane of the gripping faces of the jaws to tension an upper, means for eflecting mutual closing movements of the gripper jaws prior to their longitudinal movement, and means for arresting movement of one of the jaws without affecting the movement of the other jaw or the movement of the gripper as a whole.

26. In a machine for operating on stitchdown shoes, the combination of a work sup-, port adapted to enter the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole and to hold the upper in the apex of said angle and against the side of the last, a gripper having upper and lower jaws constructed and arranged for mutual closing movement, and means for moving the jaws toward and from the work support, the lower jaw being constructed and arranged for adjustment relatively to the upper jaw from a position substantially flush with the other jaw to a position in which it projects substantially forward of the other jaw and into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole.

27 In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of work feeding means, a work support to enter the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, a gripper having a jaw projecting into said angle, and means for efiecting a movement of the jaw in the direction of feed prior to the operation of the work feeding means.

28. In a lasting and sewing machine, a curved awl, an operating segment for the awl, means for moving the awl to feed the work, a work support, a gripper for tensioning the upper relatively to the support, and means operated by movement of the awl segment for moving the gripper in the direction of feed prior to the feed movement of the awl.

29. In a lasting and sewing machine, a curved awl, an operating segment for the awl having a cam surface, means for moving the awl to feed the work, a work support, a gripper for tensioning the upper relatively to the support, a member connected with the gripper having a cam surface, and means for operating the awl segment to cause engagement of said cam surfaces to move the grlpper in the direction of feed prior to the feed movement of the awl.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

ARTHUR BATES.

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