US195447A - Of eoobestee - Google Patents

Description

J. W. HATCH.

SHOES.

Patented Sept. 25, 1877.

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JESSEfW. HTGH'-, OIF-ROCHESTER, NEW YORK;

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Specification-formingpartohetterlsy Patentf'No. 195,447; datedSeptember 25, 1877; application filed May 7,'1877A T allwhomtmayconvemr Y Be-it known that'fIi JssE=W.'H1IT'on,.of Rochester, Ain the county of Monroe and State ofiN ew York, have" invented an Improvement in'S'hoes, ofwhich thef'following isa specificaf tion:

Thisinven-tionf relates' to an improvedshioe of-theclass made uponthe McKay sewingmachine. In that: class ot" shoe they upperis placedfb'etween al1-"inner sole anda channeled outer sole, and thestitcles are' made'through thethree. 1

In 'this plan fthe inner sole, projecting out- Ward"k 'b'eyond the4 rowy of;I stitches uniting -it with the -upperf and outsole, edoes not f' permit the' stitches uniting` the 'upper and 'outsole' to be'xnade veryclose yto vthe yangle formed'in the upper directly at -th"e; point where' thefupper4 meets theouterisole'; and, consequentlydf' the" outer soleV is extended in width? lor" length much beyond; the4 innersole, it wil'lnot be held incontact with* tle uppersufleiently near itsl lbendito `properly holdth'e sole edge.

Further,jin a' 'shoe-of* this class, when nn- -ished; theupper'bent about the inner sole'is' substantially' flush with` the edge ofthe outer sole,l and blwsagainstdthle upper V(it resting against the inner sole) soon cutit through".

Tbobviatethe cuttingof the upper,\shoe tipsfareused@to` coverthe toe of the'upper'l So; also; a'l sole hasf been recessedi to receive tlfe;upper'and'linnersoler I'ihave ascertained by experiment that an ordinary 'outsole' 'maybe sewed to thenpper on a McKay machine, and be made to'project beyondthe upper to serve thepurp'ose offa protecting-edge; andtthe'upperbe so heldas not to' be cutoverthe inner sole" when the shoeiis worn, if,"when^sewing the shoe about its ball and toe in front of the shank," the stitches be made outside the inner; sole, and so as to enter the upper" and'outsole.' This can be done Without necessarily increasing the width of the outsole. It is in this last verse section of the shoe; Fig. 4, a longitudinral'section at the toe; and Fig. 5, a section ,at th'e toe of an ordinary shoe.

:l lhe inner sole a, of leather or leather-board, sis, forward from the point b, near the shank,

made considerably narrower than the outsided S65@ lc, and shorter, as shown in plan, Fig. 2.

` In the preparation of the shoe, the inner isole a is placed upon a last-bottom, as usual, the last being wider and longer than the inner gsole, and-the upper d is then lapped over it, and secured by suitable tacks e, nails, pegs, lor stitches, as common in lasting. Then a gchanneledouter sole, c, is placed on the inner isole, and held' by a proper number ot' lasting tacks or nails e, and the last is then withdrawn, leaving the shoe ready to be placed lupon the horn to be stitched.

Referring to Figs. 2 and 3, it will be observed that the edge of the inner sole, forward of the shank, terminates short of the upper, thereby leaving a passageway. The end of the horn rests in this passage while the shoe is being sewed from the shank forward about the toe and back to the shank, and from the shank backward about the heel the end of the horn bears upon the inner sole. The stitches uniting the outer sole with the upper aretherei'ore at the forward portion ot" the shoe made only through the outsole and upper, and at the back portion of the shoe through the outer sole, upper, and inn-er sole.

As shown in Figs. 2, 3, and 4, the upper is secured to the inner sole, in front of the shank, by lasting-tacks e, and to the outsole, outside ot' the'inner sole, by stitches f, made through a channel, g.

Fig. 5 shows a sectional detail of an upper and inner and outer soles united, as usual, by a stitch. In such ligure it will be observed thatthe outer edge ot' the inner sole projects outward .beyond the stitch, and the upper is bent directly around such edge, and the edge of the outer sole is almost even with the upper.

In such a shoe, blows against the upper quickly cut it over the edge ofthe inner sole, especially if a leather-board inner sole is used. To obviate this cutting of the upper, especially at the toes, Where the upper receives the greatest number of blows, it has been customary to cover the toe of the upper with a shoe-tip. To obviate the wear of the upper, the outer sole has been recessed, so as to leave a raised lip about its edge, and the upper and inner sole have been secured in the recess on the sole, the edge of the inner sole thereby being lowered, so that the upper could not be struck opposite the edge of the inner sole.

In a shoe constructed as in Fig. 5, should the edge of the outer sole be allowed to pro ject to such a distance that the upper could not be struck opposite the edge of the inner sole, it would extend so far from the line of stitches that the sole would not be properly held up against the upper at the portion where it is bent about the inner sole. An outer sole having its edge extended in the way last proposed, even if practical, would increase the cost of the shoe considerably, owing to the extra width and length of such outer sole.

1n my improved shoe, owing to its peculiar construction, as represented in the drawings, I am enabled to make an ordinary outer sole serve the full purpose of a protector for the upper without increasing its width or cost, or without recessing its upper surface. or without providing the sole with a vertical lip or flange.

By merely decreasing the width and length of the inner sole forward of the shank, I am enabled to secure the upper directly to the outer sole by stitches outside the edge of the inner sole; and the upper, stitched to the outer sole at the portion where the upper bends to meet it, is so held that it cannot, when strluck, be bent over the corner of the inner so e.

In my plan of shoe, the upper, about the toe and ball of the foot, is held to the outer sole by stitches made through the upper just at the point where it, when bent, meets the sole, rather than at a distance back therefrom, as shown in Fig. 5. It is therefore possible to extend the edge of the outer sole far enough beyond the stitches or fastenings uniting the upper and outer sole so as to serve as an upper-protector, and this without removing the edge of the outer sole too far from the line of stitching holding it in place with the upper.

It is obvious that this invention may be so embodied with a shoe as to operate as described only with the toe of the upper, or it and a portion of the upper immediately adjacent to the toe, and at the side of the shoe.

In my invention it will be observed that the inner sole is fixed in position with relation to the outer sole, and that the upper is attached permanently with the inner sole, and the latter is not intended to be detached therefrom after the outer sole is stitched to the upper.

The space h (shown in Fig. 3) will, in practice, be tilled with scrap-leather or leatherboard, so as to prevent the descent of the inner sole under the pressure of the foot.

This invention is especially applicable to childrens, ladies, and misses shoes.

The inner sole is full width at the shankpiece.

lf desired, the inner sole at the heel may be cut away at its edge, to permit the stitches to be made through the outer sole and upper outside of it; but in such case the inner sole will be permanently fastened to the shoe at the shank by suitable tacks or fastenings.

I claim- 1. In combination, a permanent inner sole, an upper, and an outer sole extended beyond the toe of the upper far enough to serve as a protecting-edge for the upper, the upper and the outer sole being united by stitches made therein within the toe of the shoe outside the end of the inner sole, whereby the toe of the upper is so held as not to be cut over the edge of the inner sole.

2. A permanent inner sole made narrower and shorter than the outer sole from its shank forward, in combination with an upper and outer sole sewed together by stitches passing only into the upper and outer sole outside of the edge of the inner sole, in front of the shank, substantially as described.

3. A permanent inner sole, 'reduced in width and length in front of the shank, as described, in combination with an outer sole and an upper united together in front of the shank by stitches passing only into the upper and outside the edge of the inner sole, and at the shank and backward by stitches passing through the outsole, upper, and inner sole, all substantially as described. g

4. The within-described method of mannfacturing an extension-edge upper-protecting shoe, provided with a permanent inner sole, consisting in stitching the upper to the outer sole outside the edge of the permanent inner sole, forward of the shank, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JESSE W. HATCH.

Witnesses:

OHAs. B. HATCH, S. W. UPDIKE, Jr.

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