US1953065A - Trousers - Google Patents

Description

- V,\p"ril:s,19." 4.` Y w. P. GOLDMAN 1,953,065

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April 3, 1934. w. P. GOLDMAN j 1,953,065

TROUSERS Original Filed Jan. 29, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 BY ZM fm ATTORN EY5` INVENTOR Patented Apr. 3, 1934 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Application January 29, 1930, Serial No. 424,194 Renewed December 22, 1933 3 Claims.

My invention relates to a new and improved method' of sewing trousers, and to a new and improved trouser.

One of the objects of my invention is to provide a `methodv whereby the curtain portions of trousers can be sewed thereto by means of a blind stitch', so as to eliminate the necessity of hand sewing and to produce a better and cheaper article.

Another object of my invention is to provide a method whereby a pair of trousers having beltloops upon the exterior thereof, can have the curtain portion sewed thereto by means of a blind stitch, so as to speed up production and 15 make a superior article.

Another-object of my invention is to make it possible to utilize a blind stitch machine of modied` type, inV order to produce the rib or bight necessary for" the formation ofthe blind stitch.

Other objectsof` my invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings which illustrate a preferred embodiment thereof, it beingl understood thatthe above general statement of the objectsof my invention is intended merely to generally explain the same.

Fig.- 1 isa side elevation showing one of the typesioi blind stitch sewing machines which may be modified to practice the invention.

Fig. 2A is-an end view of the machine shown in ls Fig. l looking in the direction of the arrow 2l shown in Fig. l.

Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 1, partially in section and certain of the parts being broken away to more clearly illustrate the construction of the machine.

Fig. 4. is a view of the machine perpendicular to that shown in Fig. 2.

Fig. 51 is a detail View showing the rib-forming plunger and certain accessory parts.

Fig. 6is a top planv view showing the needle and the shoe underneath the same.

Fig; '7 is a plan view of the shoe located underneath the curved needle, which forms the blind stitch.

Fig'. 8jis a front elevation showing the outside ofa pair oftrousersincluding the belt-receiving loops.

Fig. 9 is an insideview showing the curtain portion of the trousers.

Fig. 10Y is a detail sectional view showing how the blind stitch is formed. l

Fig. 11 isla sectional View showing the cornpleted trousers with the curtain portion sewed thereto, so that the curtain portion is in completed form.

It has been customary for many years to provide cotton curtains or curtain portions upon the inside of the waist portion of a pair of trousers. Said curtain portions were ordinarily made of cotton cloth, and the waistband of the trousers had a sheet of canvas or similar material between the inside surface of the face fabric and said curtains or curtain portions.

It has hitherto been necessaryvto sew said curtain portions by means oi hand labor which was slow and expensive.

According to my invention, this work is accomplished by the formation of a blind stitch, even though the exterior of the waistband portion of the trousersis provided with the usual belt-receiving loops L. In order to carry out this operation economically, it is necessary to modify the well known type of sewing machine heretofore utilized in this industry, such as for example the Lewis machine which is well known in the trade. I have therefore-shown enough of the well known Lewis machine to illustrate the modifications necessary for carrying out the invention.

The blind stitch is formed by a curved needle 2 which cooperates with a shoe l located underneath said needle. This shoe 1 is modied so that it is provided with a bridge portion 3 intermediate thelegs thereof. Hence, when the layers of material are forced upwardly into the slot 4, by means of the rib-forming plunger 5, the goods are not crowded because the bridge portion 3 prevents the layers of material from being jammed against the inner side walls of the legs oi' the shoe 1. A

As shown in Fig. 10, the rib-forming plunger 5 is provided with a blunt round head so that a wide and relatively shallow rib or bight is formed to receive the curved needle in order to form the blind` stitch B.

As shown in Fig. 2, the machine has. a lower shaft 6 which is a rock shaft, this rock shaft being oscillated: by suitable mechanical means.

As shown in Fig. 3, the rock shaft 6 has an arm Z connected thereto, and this arm 7 is connected tothe L-shaped block 8'so that the block 8 is reciprocated by the movement of the shaft 6.

AsA shown in Fig.` 3, the rib-forming plunger 5 is connected to the base of the L-shaped block 8, by means of an ordinary nut 9.

Hence, the rib-forming plunger is vertically oscillated to form the rib or bight in the layers of material; te receive the needle, this movement presenting no modification of the well known movement of the Lewis machine. However, it is tobe noted that the plunger 5 does not have the usual shape, and that as before mentioned, the shoe 1 has also been modified. The machine is provided with a second rock shaft 10 which is given an oscillating movement by means of an arm 1l connected to an eccentric of the actuating shaft.

As shown in Fig. 2, the rock shaft 10 has an arm 11d connected thereto so that this arm 11a is caused to oscillate by the movementof the rock shaft 10. The arm 11a is pivctally connected at 12 to the link 1li, and this is pivotally connected at 15 to the bell crank lever 16. This bell crank lever 16 is pivotally connected at 17 to a slide 29. The arm 16a of the bell crank lever 16 is pivotally connected to a link 17a which is pivotaily connected at 18 to the feed dogs F, so that the parts previously described cause the vertical movement of said feed dogs F.

The machine also has a rock shaft 19 which is actuated by an arm 19a also connected to an eccentric on the actuating shaft of the machine. The rock shaft 19 is provided with an arm 20 which is caused to oscillate, and this arm 20 is pivotally connected to a link 21 which is pivot- `ally connected to the feed dogs F, so that the horizontal movement of the feed dogs F is thus produced.

The shoe 1 is stationary and the layers of material are raised and lowered by the slotted feedframe 25 which is provided with slots to permit the feeding movement of the feed dogs F.

As shown in Fig. 2, the feed-frame 25 is pivotally mounted at 26 to the vertically movable feedframe support 27. Said feed-frame support 27 vis connected to a vertical member 28, and this vertical member or rod 28 is mounted in a slide 29 which is guided in its movement by means of a guide member G. The slide or shoe 29 is urged to its upper position by means of a blade spring S.

As shown in Fig. e, said blade spring S contacts with the fixed block 30 and an adjusting screw 31 is provided for regulating the pressure of the spring S. This pressure is made sufficiently slight to permit the face fabric T of the trousers to be fed along so that the blind stitch can be formed therein even if the rib-forming plunger 5 contacts with a loop L.

As shown in Fig. 3, the rock shaft 41 is provided with an arm i9 mounted thereon. When the arm is turned, as for example by a foot treadle, or the like, it rocks the shaft 41, and this shaft 41 is provided with an extension which engages the slide block 29 so as to force the same downwardly. This is done when the goods are i to be inserted into the machine.

The trousers have a face fabric T to which the belt loops L are connected. The upper ends of the belt loops L are connected to the inturned edge of the face fabric T by means of ordinary transverse stitches 60.

The face fabric is provided with an inner lining of canvas 50, and with a strip of cotton material 51.

As shown in Fig. 11, the strip of cotton material has a portion thereof underneath the canvas layer.

The curtain portion C is turned so as to form two layers, and the inner layer is connected to the cotton strip 51 and to the canvas lining 50 by means of the blind stitches B.

As shown in Fig. 1l, the inner layer of the cotton lining 51 is connected to the face fabric T by means of ordinary transverse stitches 61. Referring to the cotton lining member 51 shown in Fig. 11, this is doubled or turned so that one layer thereof is adjacent the face fabric T. This layer which is directly adjacent said fabric T may be designated as the outer layer and the other layer may be designated as the inner layer, and it will be noted that the lower edge of the canvas member 59 is located between said layers. Likewise, the curtain member C is turned or doubled so as to present two layers. The layer of the curtain member C which is directly adjacent the curtain lining member 51 may be designated as the outer layer of said curtain member C, since said outer layer of the curtain member 6 is closest to the face fabric T.

The waistband portion of the face fabric T is connected to the main body thereof by means of ordinary transverse stitches 62.

As shown in Fig. 10, the rib or bight in the layers of fabric can be formed adjacent the lower portions oi the belt loops L.

However, it would not be departing from the invention if the said bight was formed along a line spaced from the bottom of the inner ends of the loops L.

However, in order to rapidly sew a pair of trousers, this cannot be done with any great precision by the operator, and it is an important advantage of my invention that by providing the plunger 5 with a relatively fiat head, instead of the usual relatively sharp head commonly used, that a broad shallow bight is formed in the layers of material Yso that the layers of material can be fed forwardly and the head of the plunger 5 permits the loops L to slip over the same. This effect is also secured by the proper regulation of the spring S.

Likewise, the goods are not jammed into the opening of the shoe l, when the bight is formed in the layers of material, so that the layers of material can be efficiently fed forward, while the row of blind stitches B is being formed.

Likewise, the improved construction shown in Figs. 10 and 11 makes it possible for the curtain C to be connected by blind stitches to an additional double piece of fabric, which embraces the canvas or stiffening layer 50. While I do not wish to limit the invention to the specific materials described, it is advantageous to provide a stiffening layer or piece 59 of relatively thick and stiff material, the parts being combined as shown in Fig. 11. It will be noted that the blind stitches are circumferential, that is, they are parallel to the waistband.

While I have shown the piece of material 51 as comprising a single piece having a plurality of layers, the invention is not to be limited to this one-piece construction. Likewise, while the curtain piece C consists of a single sheet of material having a plurality of layers, one of which is directly adjacent the innermost layer of the piece of material 5l, the invention is not to be limited to the one-piece construction of the curtain piece C. In order to complete the garment, the free or outer edge of the curtain-piece C is folded in order to provide a smooth edge, and this is suitably sewed to the outer edge of the waistband in the well-known manner. That is, the left hand side of the curtain C, which is shown in Fig. 1l, is sewed to the top or left hand side of the waistband of the trousers.

I have showna preferred embodiment of my invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions could be made without departing from its spirit.

I claim:

1. A pair of trousers having a waistband portion having a face fabric and having an inner piece of material located at the inside of said waistband portion, said inner piece of material having a plurality of layers, one of which is adjacent said face fabric, said adjacent layer being connected to said waistband portion by transverse stitches, a second inner piece of fabric having one edge located between the layers of said first mentioned piece of material, the other edge of said second piece of material being connected to the face fabric by transverse stitches, and a curtain piece comprising a pair of layers, one of which is adjacent the innermost layer of said iirst mentioned piece of material, the layer of said curtain piece which is directly adjacent said innermost layer of the first mentioned piece of material being connected to said innermost layer and to the second piece of material 'by means of circumferential blind stitches.

2. A method of sewing a curtain piece to the inner side of the waistband portion of a pair of trousers, which consists in sewing inner material to the face fabric of said waistband portion withstitch, and feeding said layers of material forwardly intermediate the formation of blind stitches, said bight being formed sufficiently wide and shallow to prevent the clogging of the material during the feeding movement thereof.

3. A method of connecting the curtain member to a pair of trousers which are provided with exterior loops at the waistband portion thereof, which consists in connecting inner material to the facing fabric of said pair of trousers by means of transverse stitches without sewing said inner material to the face fabric of the body of the trousers below the bottom of the waistband portion, and then connecting said curtain member to said inner material by circumferential blind stitches which are spaced from the inner ends of said loops. WILLIAM P. GOLDMAN.

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