US1952631A - Method of manufacturing shoes and welting for use therein - Google Patents

Description

March 27, 1934. c, RQEDER ET AL 1,952,631

METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SHOES AND WELTING FOR USE THEREIN Filed Aug. 21, 1931 Patented Mar. 27, 1934 UNITED STA DIETHOD OF MANUFACTURING SHOES AND WELTING FOR USE THEREIN Clarence E..Roeder, Melrose, and Otto E. Swanson, Brockton, Mass, assignors to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a cor-- poration of New Jersey Application August 21, 1931, Serial No. 558,478

9 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in methods of manufacturing welted shoes and is disclosed herein with reference to the manufacture of that type of welted shoe in which an outsole is secured to the welt of the shoe by cement in place of the usual stitching.

It has heretofore been usual, in manufacturing shoes of the type last referred to, to perform the lasting, welting, inseam trimming, and welt beating operations as in the manufacture of Goodyear Welt shoes, except that the welting used is frequently of a lighter weight than is typical of Goodyear Welt shoemaking practice. After the welt-beating operation, the sole receiving surface of the welt and the trimmed edges of the welt, the shoe upper and the rib of the insole, produced by the inseam trimming operation, are coated with pyroxylin cement which is allowed to dry. This operation must be performed carefully, since it is necessary that the welt be thoroughly covered, clear to its outer edge, with cement but without permitting any of the cement to reach the exposed shoe upper adjacent to the welt. The marginal portion of. the previously roughened outsole is also coated with pyroxylin cement and after that cement has dried the cemented surface of the outsole as well as the cemented surface of the welted upper are treated with a suitable softener to activate the cement, after which the sole is applied to the shoe which is maintained under, pressure while the cement sets.

In the practice of the novel method of our invention, we utilize pre-cemented welting, that is welting the attaching surface of which has been coated with cement and allowed to dry. Preferably, and as illustrated herein, pyroxylin cement is used for this purpose. The cement is applied to the welting and dried while the welting is in a continuous strip, and, of course, before it supplied to the operator of the welt stitching machine. After the pre-coated welt has been attached to the shoe the inseam trimming and welt beating operations are performed in the 45 usual way. Then the bottom of the shoe is filled I as in the manufactureof Goodyear Welt shoes and pyroxylin cement is preferably applied to the freshly cut edges of the welt, the shoe upper and the rib of the insole produced by the inseam trimming operation. This cement is allowed to dry and the outsole is prepared and attached in the manner previously set forth.

The applying of the cement to the welting in the skein or hank relieves the shoe manufacturer or the delicate and therefore slow job of applying cement to the welt after it has been attached to the shoe. The coating of the trimmed edges after the inseam trimming operation, on the other hand, is not critical, as it is remote from the exposed portion of the shoe upper, and can therefore be performed quickly and easily.

In view of the foregoing our invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawing and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a view of a short piece of precemented welting before it has been attached to a shoe;

Fig. 2 illustrates the manufacture of a shoe in accordance with our novel method, showing the shoe after the pre-cemented welting has been attached to the lasted shoe upper and insole by the usual inseam which extends through the welting, the shoe upper and the rib of the insole; and

Fig. 3' is a cross-sectional view through the forepart of the substantially completed shoe.

As illustrated herein, 10 represents the upper of a shoe manufactured in accordance with our novel method and held in lasted relation to a last 12 and an insole 14 by staples 16 passed through the upper 10 and the rib 18 of the insole 14 and clinched upon the inner surface of the rib 18, for example by a staple side lasting machine of the character disclosed in the Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,796,451, granted March 17, 1931, on an application filed in the name of George Goddu. As illustrated in Fig. 2, the toe portion of the shoe upper is held in lasted relation to the last and insole by means of a wire 22 held at its ends by the usual anchor tacks 24. The heel seat portion of the upper is secured in lasted relation to the insole by the usual tacks 26.

The welting 28 which is now to be attached is provided on its sole receiving face with a coating of cement, indicated at 30 in Figs. 1 and 2, pref erably pyroxylin cement, of a character now commonly usedfor attaching soles to shoes by the compo or cement process. Before applying the pyroxylin cement the welting, which is preferably of a wedge shape in cross-section, and is therefore known as wedge welting, is grooved as illustrated at 32 for the reception of the stitching of the usual inseam. The trimming of the welting to this wedge formation, or the evening of the welting, if not of wedge formation, by the usual welt-evening machine, produces a clean split leather surface well adapted to receive cement, and no additional roughening of the welt is ordinarily necessarybefore the cement is applied. Preferably the pyroxylin cement used should be of one of the more flexible varieties in order to avoid such stiffening of the welt as would interfere with or slowup the inseaming operation. If the shoes to be manufactured are womens light Welts, suitable dimensions for the welting are 1 to of an inch wide, of an inch thick on the inner edge, and on the outer edge, with a shallow groove of an inch or thereabouts from the inner edge.

The pre-cemented welting is attached by means of the usual welt stitcher.- The thread thus used for the inseam'may advantageously be lubricated with a substance more compatible with pyroxylin than the waxcommonly used, for example with castor oil, which may be put in the wax pot of the welt stitcher. p After the pre-cemented welt 28 has been attached by stitching 34 inserted by the usual 'welt stitcher, the anchor tacks 24 and the toe wire 22 are removed, and the inseam trimming is performed in the manner usual in the manufacture of.Goodyear Welt shoes. Then the welt is beaten to flatten it, andis slashed at the toe, if necessary, as is also usual in the manufacture of Goodyear Welt shoes, and the bottom is filled, as indicated at 36 in Fig. 3, either with a sheet filler or with one of the well-known plastic fillers, after which, preferably, pyroxylin cement is applied to the clean cut edges resulting from the inseam trim- I ming operation and is allowed to dry. If a thicker coating of cement is desired on the welt, a second coating may be applied to it at the same time that the cement is applied to the inseam.

The marginal portion of the attaching face of the outsole 38 is scoured or roughened and is coated with pyroxylin cement which is allowed to dry, after whichthe cement is softened, being with a suitable solvent which is preferably applied both to the cement on the sole and to the cement on the welted upper, that is to the cement on the welt and on the edges 1 formed by the inseam trimming operation, after which the outsole is applied to the shoe and the shoe and sole are put under pressure while the cement, indicated at 40 in Fig. 3, sets. This leaves the shoe in the condition illustrated at the righthand side of Fig. 3, with the welt and outsole hugging the upper byreason of the sole-attaching .pressure.. The shoe is then edge-trimmed,

the condition of the sole and welting after theedge-trimming being shown at the left side of Fig. 3, and finished in the usual way.

Having thus described our invention what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters-Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a welt the sole engaging surface of which-is pre-coated with acellulose derivative cement to the marginal portion of a shoe uppena'nd subsequently activating the cement on the welt and u'tilizing it to secure an outsole to the shoe.

2. That-improvement in ethods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a welt the sole-engaging surface of which is pre-coated with a cellulose-derivative cement to the over; lasted marginal portion of the upper and to the insole of a lasted shoe, and activating the cement'upon the welt and utilizing it to secure an outsole to the shoe.

3. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a welt the ment to the overlasted marginal portion of a lasted shoe upper and to the insole of the shoe,

applying cement to the marginal portion of an outsole, activating the cement on the welt and the outsole, and applying, the outsole to the shoe and pressing together the cemented surfaces of the welt and the outsole, thereby securing the outsole to the shoe. 5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises workinga shoe upper into'lasted relation to a ribbed insole and stapling the upper in that relation to the rib of the insole, stitching to the upper and the rib of the insole a piece of welting pre-coated with cement, inseam-trimming the shoe, and utilizing the cement on the welting to secure an outsole to the shoe.

6. That improvement in methods of manufacturing welted shoes which comprises working a shoe upper into lasted relation to a ribbed insole andsecuring the upper in that relation to the rib of the insole, stitching to the upper and the rib of the insole a piece of welting pre-coated with cement, inseam-trimming the shoe, and utilizing the cement on the welting to secure an outsole to the shoe. I

'7. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching a welt the sole-engaging surface of which has been pre-coated with pyroxylin cement, to the overlasted marginal portion of the upper of a lasted shoe and to a rib extending peripherally of the insole of the shoe, inseam-trimming the shoe, applying pyroxylin cement to the marginal portion of an outsole and permitting it to dry, activating the cement on one or both of said shoe parts, and applying the sole to the shoe and pressing together the cement-bearing surfaces of the welt and the outsole, thereby securing-the outsole to the shoe.

8. That'improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises working a shoe upper into lasted relation to the rib of an insole and securing the upper in that'relation to the rib' of the insole, stitching to the lasted upper and the rib of the insole, a welt pre-coated with cement, inseam trimming the shoe, coating with cement the cut edges of the welt, the upper material and the rib of the insole resulting from the inseam trimming operation, applying cement to the marginal portion 'of an outsole, and pressing togetherthe cement-bearing surfaces of the outsole and the welted shoe upper while the cement is in active condition and thereby securingthe outsole to the shoe. L

9. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching a welt the sole-engaging surface of which has been pre-c'oated with pyroxylin cement to the overlasted marginal portion of the upper of a lasted shoe and to a rib extending peripherally of the insole resulting from eration and permitting insole of the shoe, inseam trimming the shoe, applying pyroxylin cement of the welt, the

p y ny oxy of an outsole an to the cut surfaces shoe upper and the rib of the the inseam trimming opthat cement to dry, apcement to the marginal portion d permitting it to dry, activat-

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