US1950416A - Process of making imitation astrachan fur - Google Patents

Process of making imitation astrachan fur Download PDF

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US1950416A
US1950416A US357089A US35708929A US1950416A US 1950416 A US1950416 A US 1950416A US 357089 A US357089 A US 357089A US 35708929 A US35708929 A US 35708929A US 1950416 A US1950416 A US 1950416A
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backing
fur
chenille
band
astrachan
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Romane Georges
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Johs Girmes & Co
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H41/00Machines or appliances for making garments from natural or artificial fur
    • A41H41/005Machines or appliances for making garments from artificial fur

Definitions

  • Chenille is a product consisting of a core made of any textile material, cottonfor instance, around which are crosswise-arranged fibers, also made of any textile material (silk, wool, etc.).
  • Gibbousing is an operation that consists in laying circularly the cross fibers of the chenille around their core by passing them through suitably heated revolving tubes.
  • the object of this invention is to provide a 15 process for making furs imitating astrachan
  • said process consisting essentially in previously cutting up into bits of any shape and size suitably gibboused chenille or like material and in applying said bits by projection, suction or 10 any other suitable means on a backing made of fabric, hide or other material, coated with a sticky coating, such as, for instance, rubber cement, so that the said chenille bits may be positioned in any order and according to any 95 arrangement, permitting an effect to be obtained which as nearly as possible resembles the natural fur.
  • the chenille employed may have been subjected to more or less marked gibbousing.
  • I start with a chenille having a section or Width of 21 m. m. or more, previous to gibbousing, which section I reduce, by gibousing, to 'I m. m., a ratio given merely as an indication and variable according to the amount of curling imparted to the fibers by winding them more or less tightly around their core.
  • FIG. 46 An embodiment of a machine constructed in accordance with the invention is illustrated in 46 the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a general side elevation of such a machine;
  • Figure 2 is a detail view, on an enlarged-scale, of the chenille-cutting mechanism.
  • Figure 3 is a detail view, also on an enlarged scale, showing the driving and conveying device for the chenille bits, and their crowding and distribution, previous to final application, on a backing.
  • Figure 4 is a detail view illustrating the gumming device and the device for retouching the chenille bits on their backing before the latter is wound.
  • a machine constructed in accordance with my invention comprises essentially a frame 1, one 60 of the ends of which carries the mechanism for cutting the chenille. Said mechanism is fitted with a conveyor band 2 running over a lower roll 3 and over two rolls 4 and 5. At 0 there is provided a cylinder permitting the chenille to pass between band 2 and. a glass plate 7 which will be hereinafter described.
  • Said conveyor band 2 is driven along by one of the rolls 3, 4 or 5 which is rotated by any suitable transmission means.
  • Above and at each side of band 2 are positioned adjustably spaced plates 6 on which rests the glass plate 7 held, for instance by a cross-strap 8.
  • Said conveyor band 2 is combined with a sec ond conveyor band 9 that passes over rolls 10 and 11 carried by frame 1.
  • This band 9 is covered, for a distance a-b, by the glass plate '7 and, together with said plate, by a heating surface 12, held by another cross-strap l3.
  • Said band 9 is driven, for instance, by means of a belt transmission 14, at a speed lower than the travelling speed of band 2.
  • a circular blade 15 rotated by a suitable motor (not shown), which blade is designed to slit the chenille as will be hereinafter explained.
  • a conveyor band 19 In front of the above described system extends another conveyor band 19, rumiing over two cylinders and 21, and kept under proper tension by means of a suitable device 22. Motion is imparted to this band 19 by cylinder 20 itself driven by a belt transmission 23.
  • a pressure cylinder 24 On the side opposite the driving cylinder 20 there is provided, above band 19, a pressure cylinder 24 the ends of which freely rest in suitable bearings 25 ( Figure 3) carried by frame 1.
  • Band 19 like the conveyor bands of the cutting mechanism, is covered along its sides by guiding members 6.
  • a clamp or cross-strap 26 a plate 7 made of glass or of any other transparent material.
  • Said plate 7 also covers along the whole width thereof, another conveyor band 28 which runs over a cylinder 27 parallel with cylinder 21 and somewhat spaced therefrom.
  • Said band 28 is provided, like the foregoing one, with guiding members 6. It runs over a second cylinder 29 and over a tensicnine cy 30 ( Figure Cy ders 21 and 27 are mounted on supports 31 and 32 adjustable vertically with respect to the frame by any suitable means as, for instance, by wing nuts 33.
  • Said band 28 is driven along by the aforesaid cylinder 29, itself actuated by a belt drive 43.
  • the machine is completed by a device designed to permit of developing the backing whereon the bits of chenille are to be applied.
  • Said backing made of tissue, fabric or other suitable material, is indicated at 34. It may be located wherever convenient on the machine. It is guided by a series of rollers 35, then passes through a suitable gluing device 36 and next runs over a roll 3'7 whence it passes to roll 38. From roll 38 it goes over another roll 39, the periphery of which is provided with paddles. Next, it passes through a suitably designed device the duty of which is to fill up with any bits or shreds of textile the gaps between the stuck-on chenille bits.
  • Said powdering device housed within a casing 40, is constituted by a drum 41 containing the aforesaid powder and having a perforated wall (not shown) Said drum is revolved by a suitable transmission 42 driven by pulley 43. On issuing from casing 40, backing 34 goes to a suitable winding device 45 revolved by a belt transmission 45' from pulley 43.
  • said backing follows an inclined path which is clearly seen in Figures 1 and 4, and wherealong may be retouched by hand, if required, the arrangement of the chenille bits on the sticky surface which has not as yet become dry.
  • a suction funnel 48 is provided so as to lead out the objectionable fumes from the rubber cement used to coat the backing.
  • the chenille 50 has one of its ends placed under roll 0 of the cutting or slitting mechanism. Pressure exerted by said roll 0 forces said end into contact with conveyor band 2 which carries it under glass plate 7 whereby it is slightly compressed. It then comes into contact with the second conveyor band 9 which is moving along at a speed slower than the travelling speed of band 2. Due to this slowing down the chenille forms a succession of bends or loops, and while in that condition it is carried along by the second conveyor band 9 under the heating surface 12, the heat from which acts on it after it has left the cutting up machine. It then comes into contact with blade 15 which cuts it up, the bits falling into chute 16 and thence into drum 1'7, 18.
  • Said drum deposits the bits, rid of their impurities, on conveyor band 19, on which they can then be properly distributed eii'her by hand or mechanically over the whole surface of conveyor band 19, care being taken to avoid overlapping.
  • said bits travel to cylinder 24 which forces them to pass under transparent plate 7' until they abut against band 28 which is running over cylinders 27 and 29 and is slightly higher than band 19.
  • Conveyor band 28 is running at a speed slower than the travelling speed of band 19. Consequently, the chenille bits are crowded towards end 19' of band 19.
  • Said bits, so crowded come into contact with band 28 whereon they are automatically distributed in the proper manner.
  • Said backing, so treated next travels along the above described path to reach the powdering chamber 40 and next the winding device 45. Retouching of thechenille bits is effected on the sloping portion previous to entering into chamber 40, as hereinbefore explained.
  • Retouching consists in applying additional bits of the material to the portion of the coated backing strip which is uncovered by the bits of material deposited thereon.
  • backing 34 and band 28 should not be driven at the same speed. Said drive is obtained by means of a pinion 43' secured to the end of cylinder 29 of band 28 and in mesh with another pinion 43" secured to cylinder 37 of said backing34.
  • steps comprising depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate to compress the same, transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume a wavy appearance, passing the so treated material under a device to maintain the wavy appearance, cutting the material into small pieces and depositing the pieces on a third conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate and transferring it to a fourth conveyor moving at a slower speed whereby the material on the third conveyor will be crowded and closely arranged on the fourth conveyor, and then transferring the material to an adhesive coated backing.
  • steps comprising depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate to compress the same, transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume a wavy appearance, passing the so treated material under a. device to maintain the wavy appearance, cutting the material into small pieces and depositing the pieces uniformly on an adhesive coated backing, and heating the backing to dry the same while simultaneously applying powder to the exposed adhesive coated surface.
  • steps comprising depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate to compress the same, transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume a wavy appearance, passing the so treated material under a device to maintain the wavy appearance, cutting the material into small pieces and depositing the pieces uniformly on an adhesive coated backing, retouching the product by depositing additional pieces of the material on the backing before it dries, and heating the backing to dry the same while simultaneously applying powder to the exposed adhesive coated surface.
  • a process of making imitation astrachan fur comprising the steps of continuously cutting a strip of previously-gibboused chenille into bits of suitable size and shape; continuously coating one face of a strip of backing material with an adhesive substance; continuously applying the chenille bits upon the coated face of the backing strip in a manner to produce an effect as. nearly as possible resembling natural astrachan; and
  • a process of making artificial astrachan fur comprising the steps of preparing gibboused chenille in portions of suitable size; arranging said portions on a temporary support in a formation imitative of the genuine fur; providing a backing material and coating it with a suitable adhesive; bringing the adhesive coated side of the backing into pressure contact with the chenille on the support for transferring the chenille from the support to the backing; and causing the adhesive to harden.
  • a process of making artificial astrachan fur comprising the steps of preparing gibboused chenille in portions of suitable size; arranging said portions on a temporary support in a formation imitative of the genuine fur; providing a backing material and coating it with a suitable adhesive; bringing the adhesive coated side of the backing into pressure contact with the chenille on the support for transferring the chenille from the support to the backing; causing the adhesive to harden; and manually treating the chenille on the backing to improve the appearance of the finished article.
  • a process of making artificial astrachan fur comprising the steps of depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt; passing the material under a device to compress the same; transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material andtherefore cause the same to assume an irregular appearance; and applying the material to an adhesive coated backing.
  • a process of making artificial astrachan fur comprising the steps of depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt; passing the material under a device to compress the same; transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume an irregular appearance; applying the material to an adhesive coated backing; and causing the adhesive to harden.

Description

March 13, 1934. ROMANE 1,950,416
PROCESS OF MAKING IMITATION ASTRACHAN FUR Filed April 22, 1929 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 gnue'nfov Georges Fomane,
March 1.3, 1934. RQMANE 7 1,950,416
PROCESS OF MAKING I'MITATION ASTRACHAN FUR Filed April 22,1929 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Georges Romain,
PROCESS OF MAKING IMITATION ASTRACHAN FUR Filed April 22, 1929 s Sheets-Sheet 3 eaayes Zomaawy zam/ AND/WE Patented Mar. 13, 1934 1,950,416 raoonss or MAKING IMITATION A8- TBACHAN FUR Georges Romane, St. Mande, France, assignor to Jobs. Gil-mes & 00., Oedt, Rhineland, Germany Application April 22, 1929, Serial No. 357,089 In France June 30, 1928 11 Claims. (o1.-154 2) In a prior Patent, No. 1,731,591, granted ctober 15, 1929, I described artificial furs, especially imitaticnastrachan, obtained by affixing gibboused chenille on a backing made of tis- I sue, fabric or other suitable material.
Chenille is a product consisting of a core made of any textile material, cottonfor instance, around which are crosswise-arranged fibers, also made of any textile material (silk, wool, etc.).
Gibbousing is an operation that consists in laying circularly the cross fibers of the chenille around their core by passing them through suitably heated revolving tubes.
The object of this invention is to provide a 15 process for making furs imitating astrachan,
said process consisting essentially in previously cutting up into bits of any shape and size suitably gibboused chenille or like material and in applying said bits by projection, suction or 10 any other suitable means on a backing made of fabric, hide or other material, coated with a sticky coating, such as, for instance, rubber cement, so that the said chenille bits may be positioned in any order and according to any 95 arrangement, permitting an effect to be obtained which as nearly as possible resembles the natural fur.
The chenille employed may have been subjected to more or less marked gibbousing. Preferably, in order to obtain a final product offering closer resemblance to astrachan, and, particularly, to increase its strength, I start with a chenille having a section or Width of 21 m. m. or more, previous to gibbousing, which section I reduce, by gibousing, to 'I m. m., a ratio given merely as an indication and variable according to the amount of curling imparted to the fibers by winding them more or less tightly around their core. When such winding around extends 40 beyond a complete circle formed by the fibers around their core, considerable advantage ensues over incomplete gibbousing.
An embodiment of a machine constructed in accordance with the invention is illustrated in 46 the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a general side elevation of such a machine;
Figure 2 is a detail view, on an enlarged-scale, of the chenille-cutting mechanism.
Figure 3 is a detail view, also on an enlarged scale, showing the driving and conveying device for the chenille bits, and their crowding and distribution, previous to final application, on a backing.
Figure 4 is a detail view illustrating the gumming device and the device for retouching the chenille bits on their backing before the latter is wound.
A machine constructed in accordance with my invention comprises essentially a frame 1, one 60 of the ends of which carries the mechanism for cutting the chenille. Said mechanism is fitted with a conveyor band 2 running over a lower roll 3 and over two rolls 4 and 5. At 0 there is provided a cylinder permitting the chenille to pass between band 2 and. a glass plate 7 which will be hereinafter described.
Said conveyor band 2 is driven along by one of the rolls 3, 4 or 5 which is rotated by any suitable transmission means. Above and at each side of band 2 are positioned adjustably spaced plates 6 on which rests the glass plate 7 held, for instance by a cross-strap 8.
Said conveyor band 2 is combined with a sec ond conveyor band 9 that passes over rolls 10 and 11 carried by frame 1. This band 9 is covered, for a distance a-b, by the glass plate '7 and, together with said plate, by a heating surface 12, held by another cross-strap l3. Said band 9 is driven, for instance, by means of a belt transmission 14, at a speed lower than the travelling speed of band 2.
In front of the second band 9 there is located a circular blade 15 rotated by a suitable motor (not shown), which blade is designed to slit the chenille as will be hereinafter explained.
Below said blade is located a chute 16 leading to a revolving drum 1'7, the wall 18 of which is perforated. In front of the above described system extends another conveyor band 19, rumiing over two cylinders and 21, and kept under proper tension by means of a suitable device 22. Motion is imparted to this band 19 by cylinder 20 itself driven by a belt transmission 23. On the side opposite the driving cylinder 20 there is provided, above band 19, a pressure cylinder 24 the ends of which freely rest in suitable bearings 25 (Figure 3) carried by frame 1. Band 19, like the conveyor bands of the cutting mechanism, is covered along its sides by guiding members 6. Immediately in front of cylinder 24 there is arranged and held by a clamp or cross-strap 26 a plate 7 made of glass or of any other transparent material. Said plate 7 also covers along the whole width thereof, another conveyor band 28 which runs over a cylinder 27 parallel with cylinder 21 and somewhat spaced therefrom. Said band 28 is provided, like the foregoing one, with guiding members 6. It runs over a second cylinder 29 and over a tensicnine cy 30 (Figure Cy ders 21 and 27 are mounted on supports 31 and 32 adjustable vertically with respect to the frame by any suitable means as, for instance, by wing nuts 33.
Said band 28 is driven along by the aforesaid cylinder 29, itself actuated by a belt drive 43.
The machine is completed by a device designed to permit of developing the backing whereon the bits of chenille are to be applied. Said backing, made of tissue, fabric or other suitable material, is indicated at 34. It may be located wherever convenient on the machine. It is guided by a series of rollers 35, then passes through a suitable gluing device 36 and next runs over a roll 3'7 whence it passes to roll 38. From roll 38 it goes over another roll 39, the periphery of which is provided with paddles. Next, it passes through a suitably designed device the duty of which is to fill up with any bits or shreds of textile the gaps between the stuck-on chenille bits. Said powdering device, housed within a casing 40, is constituted by a drum 41 containing the aforesaid powder and having a perforated wall (not shown) Said drum is revolved by a suitable transmission 42 driven by pulley 43. On issuing from casing 40, backing 34 goes to a suitable winding device 45 revolved by a belt transmission 45' from pulley 43.
It should be noted that where it passes through casing 40 the backing 34 furnished with chenille is subjected first to the action of a beater 46 which assists discharge of the powder on the sticky fabric ground between the chenille bits. Said backing next passes over another beater 4'7 intended to rid it of the excess powder which it may have received. It should also be noted that, previous to entering the powdering chamber 40,
. said backing follows an inclined path which is clearly seen in Figures 1 and 4, and wherealong may be retouched by hand, if required, the arrangement of the chenille bits on the sticky surface which has not as yet become dry.
A suction funnel 48 is provided so as to lead out the objectionable fumes from the rubber cement used to coat the backing.
The operation of the machine is as follows:
The chenille 50 has one of its ends placed under roll 0 of the cutting or slitting mechanism. Pressure exerted by said roll 0 forces said end into contact with conveyor band 2 which carries it under glass plate 7 whereby it is slightly compressed. It then comes into contact with the second conveyor band 9 which is moving along at a speed slower than the travelling speed of band 2. Due to this slowing down the chenille forms a succession of bends or loops, and while in that condition it is carried along by the second conveyor band 9 under the heating surface 12, the heat from which acts on it after it has left the cutting up machine. It then comes into contact with blade 15 which cuts it up, the bits falling into chute 16 and thence into drum 1'7, 18. Said drum deposits the bits, rid of their impurities, on conveyor band 19, on which they can then be properly distributed eii'her by hand or mechanically over the whole surface of conveyor band 19, care being taken to avoid overlapping. Once so arranged on conveyor band 19, said bits travel to cylinder 24 which forces them to pass under transparent plate 7' until they abut against band 28 which is running over cylinders 27 and 29 and is slightly higher than band 19. Conveyor band 28 is running at a speed slower than the travelling speed of band 19. Consequently, the chenille bits are crowded towards end 19' of band 19. Said bits, so crowded, come into contact with band 28 whereon they are automatically distributed in the proper manner. At 28 they meet the backing 34 which has been coated with glue at 36 and adhere thereto. Said backing, so treated, next travels along the above described path to reach the powdering chamber 40 and next the winding device 45. Retouching of thechenille bits is effected on the sloping portion previous to entering into chamber 40, as hereinbefore explained.
Retouching consists in applying additional bits of the material to the portion of the coated backing strip which is uncovered by the bits of material deposited thereon.
It should be noted that backing 34 and band 28 should not be driven at the same speed. Said drive is obtained by means of a pinion 43' secured to the end of cylinder 29 of band 28 and in mesh with another pinion 43" secured to cylinder 37 of said backing34.
I wish it to be clearly understood that the above described embodiment is in no way limitative and that any constructional modifications and changes may be introduced without departing from the scope of my invention as claimed.
A divisional application has been filed for the apparatus for making imitation astrachan fur.
Having now particularly ascertained and described the'nature of my said invention as well as the manner in which the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is:
1. In a process of making artificial astrachan fur, the steps comprising depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate to compress the same, transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume a wavy appearance, and passing the so treated material under a device to maintain the wavy appearance.
2. In a process of making artificial astrachan fur, the steps comprising depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate to compress the same, transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume a wavy appearance, passing the so treated material under a device to maintain the wavy appearance, cutting the material into small pieces, and depositing the pieces uniformly on an adhesive coated backing.
3. In a process of making artificial astrachan fur, the steps comprising depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate to compress the same, transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume a wavy appearance, passing the so treated material under a device to maintain the wavy appearance, cutting the material into small pieces and depositing the pieces on a third conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate and transferring it to a fourth conveyor moving at a slower speed whereby the material on the third conveyor will be crowded and closely arranged on the fourth conveyor, and then transferring the material to an adhesive coated backing.
4. In a process of making artificial astrachan ing at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume a wavy appearance, passing the so treated material under a device to maintain the wavy appearance, cutting the material into small pieces and depositing. the pieces uniformly on an adhesive coated backing, retouching the product by depositing additional pieces of the material on the backing before it dries, and drying the backing.
5. In a process of making artificial astrachan fur, the steps comprising depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate to compress the same, transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume a wavy appearance, passing the so treated material under a. device to maintain the wavy appearance, cutting the material into small pieces and depositing the pieces uniformly on an adhesive coated backing, and heating the backing to dry the same while simultaneously applying powder to the exposed adhesive coated surface.
6. In a process of making artificial astrachan fur, the steps comprising depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt, passing the material under a plate to compress the same, transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume a wavy appearance, passing the so treated material under a device to maintain the wavy appearance, cutting the material into small pieces and depositing the pieces uniformly on an adhesive coated backing, retouching the product by depositing additional pieces of the material on the backing before it dries, and heating the backing to dry the same while simultaneously applying powder to the exposed adhesive coated surface.
'7. A process of making imitation astrachan fur, comprising the steps of continuously cutting a strip of previously-gibboused chenille into bits of suitable size and shape; continuously coating one face of a strip of backing material with an adhesive substance; continuously applying the chenille bits upon the coated face of the backing strip in a manner to produce an effect as. nearly as possible resembling natural astrachan; and
retouching the bits of chenille deposited upon the coated strip before the coating dries by filling up the uncovered surface of the hacking.
8. A process of making artificial astrachan fur, comprising the steps of preparing gibboused chenille in portions of suitable size; arranging said portions on a temporary support in a formation imitative of the genuine fur; providing a backing material and coating it with a suitable adhesive; bringing the adhesive coated side of the backing into pressure contact with the chenille on the support for transferring the chenille from the support to the backing; and causing the adhesive to harden.
9. A process of making artificial astrachan fur, comprising the steps of preparing gibboused chenille in portions of suitable size; arranging said portions on a temporary support in a formation imitative of the genuine fur; providing a backing material and coating it with a suitable adhesive; bringing the adhesive coated side of the backing into pressure contact with the chenille on the support for transferring the chenille from the support to the backing; causing the adhesive to harden; and manually treating the chenille on the backing to improve the appearance of the finished article.
10. A process of making artificial astrachan fur, comprising the steps of depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt; passing the material under a device to compress the same; transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material andtherefore cause the same to assume an irregular appearance; and applying the material to an adhesive coated backing.
11. A process of making artificial astrachan fur, comprising the steps of depositing fur imitating material on a moving conveyor belt; passing the material under a device to compress the same; transferring the material to a conveyor belt moving at a slower speed to crowd the material and therefore cause the same to assume an irregular appearance; applying the material to an adhesive coated backing; and causing the adhesive to harden. I
GEORGES ROMANE.
US357089A 1928-06-30 1929-04-22 Process of making imitation astrachan fur Expired - Lifetime US1950416A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3192085A (en) * 1960-04-04 1965-06-29 Moscovsky Ex Zd Iskoosstvennoi Process of manufacturing imitation persian lamb cloth and machine for producing the same

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3192085A (en) * 1960-04-04 1965-06-29 Moscovsky Ex Zd Iskoosstvennoi Process of manufacturing imitation persian lamb cloth and machine for producing the same

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