US1919657A - Shoe and process of lasting the same - Google Patents

Description

SHOE AND PROCESS OF LASTING THE SAME Filed Feb. 16, 1931 (ill enema July as, E9533 JACOB S. KAOEIAN, F WEST NEWTON, SSAGHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR IO NORTHERN MACHINE 60., ING, 0F BQSTON', MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION 01E MASSACHU- SETTS SHOE AND PROCESS OF LASTING- THE S Application filed; February 16, 1931. Serial No. 515,921.,

This invention relates to footwear and more particularly to a shoe of improvedconstruction and'to a process of lasting such a shoe. In accordance with the usual processes of lasting, the upper is pulled over at the toe, commonly by machine and tacks are temporarily inserted at the toe to hold this portion of the upper in place while the shoe is lasted at the sides. After completion of the side lasting, thetacks at the toe are removed, and the toe and heel lasting is commonly completed on a bed laster comprising movable wiper plates, which are caused to move inwardly and over the projecting marginal portions of the upper, thereby causing said projecting portions to become pleated or folded inwardly over and upon the under surface of the inner sole. While held in this position by the wiper plates, the operator inserts closely spaced tacks to secure the edge of the upper to the inner sole. In order to avoid undue fullness of the pleated material at the toe, it is usual to trim of!" that part of the toe box which projects below the level of the last bottom and thus in the completed shoe the toe box finds no anchorage to the inner sole. For this reason the toe portion of the shoe is not as strong as might be desired, and the upper tends to bulge or spread laterally when the shoe is subjected to the pounding operation and also during use.

Furthermore according to the usual methods of lasting, even after the lower part of the box has been removed, as above described, the bulk of the pleated material at the toe is so great that the relatively movable wiper plates of the bed laster will not flatten it down to a level surface, and after lasting it is necessary to grind away this part of the shoe bottom, a crude operation which tears awav portions of the margins of the upper and lining and which necessitates the further operation of pounding to reduce the remainder to a passably flat condition.

- These operations of grinding and pounding add to the cost of making the shoe and in the case of the cheaper grades, where the lasts are pulled as soonas possible afterlasting, this pounding and grinding slows up the entire operation.

In accordance with the present invention I provide a shoe which may be made accurately to conform to the last at the toe portion and which retains its shape indefinitely after lasting without tendency to spread or bulge,

these improved results being due in part at least to the fact that the margin of the toe box, as well as the margin of the upper, is firmly and uniformly anchored to the under side of the inner sole. Furthermore, since the pleated material at the toe in accordance with this process is brought substantially to a flat surface before application of the outer sole, the latter lies flat and true at the toe, making the subsequent sole leveling operation much easier and more effective. In obtaining these desirable results I prefer first to prepare a. toe box (of any of the usual materials) but preferably having its forward or lower margin notched and also skived, such notched marginal portion being coated or impregnated with a suitable quick-setting cement preferably of a kind which when heated tends firmly to unite the toe box to adjacent parts. The thermoplastic binder of the well known Beckwith box toe possesses the requisite qualities to some extent at least. I also provide a heater device, conveniently a stiff 30 plate of metal shaped to conform more or less closely to the toe portion of the shoe to be lasted, such plate having a handle or other suitable means by which it may be manipulated. This plate may be heated to the desired temperature in any suitable manner,

as for example by the use of a stove, or by supplying it with electrical resistance coils.

In lasting the shoe, the toe is first pulled over according to usual methods and the sides are lasted. The pulling over tacks are then removed, the projecting margin of the lining is trimmed away substantially flush with the under sug'face of the sole, and the operator then wipes in the marginal portion of the upper and the toe box by means of the bed laster. If the material of the upper isv especially thick or bulky, the central part of the pleated material may be shaved ofli' level.

The heater plate is laid upon the pleated material and the wipers of the bed laster are lowered onto the edges of the plate and held there under pressure for a short time to allow the adhesive on the box to infiltrate into the adjacent insole and upper. Usually it is suflicient to leave the parts in this position while the operator is completing-the lasting of the heel. Since the heater plate is continuous, stiff and rigid it acts to iron out or flatten the pleated material much more effectively than the Wiper plates, the heat of the plate alone helping to set the material in flattened condition. The wiper plates are then lifted, the heater is removed, and the marginal portions of the toe box are now found to be securely stuck or welded to the margins of the upper and to the inner sole, the pleated material lying flat, smooth and level. In this manner the toe box is anchored securely to the inner sole so as to impart unusual strength to the toe portion of the shoe. The notching of the toe box and the trimming of the lining reduces the bulk of the material at the toe so that except when the upper is thick, it is not necessary to trim.

away the pleated material at the toe, and the shoe bottom at the toe toe is so fiat and level that it is not necessary to subject the shoe to the usual grinding and pounding operation. By the use of cement which is normally dry it does not daub the exposed parts of the shoe, and as no tacks are inserted in this toe lasting operation, a smoother and neater product is obtained and no metallic fasteners are left in such position as to interfere with the subsequent operation of attaching the outer sole or to cause discomfort to the wearer.

I am aware that it has been proposed to stick the margins of the upper and lining to the inner sole by means of adhesive such as rubber cement, cellulose acetate or nitrate, or other cementitious substances which take a long time to set, and that it has been proposed, when using such materials, to hold the parts in place While the cement is setting by means of clamping plates attached to the inner sole of the shoe by prongs or tacks, or to the last itself by bolts, but such processes necessitate the provision of great numbers of the clamping plates and/or the employment of special lasts; they slow up the lasting process and add to the cost of production; they leave the inner sole with undesirable holes and in most cases employ liquid cement which daubs the exposed parts of the upper, and these various disadvantages have brought such prior processes into disrepute in the trade. Such prior proposed methods are not to be compared with the present preferred process wherein the heater plate is used to actuate the adhesive and is associated with the shoe for only a fraction of a minute, for example approximately nine seconds.

I regard the present improved method as inclusive of various modifications, such for example as cutting the lining so that after lasting it does not overlap the inner sole to any substantial extent, thus making unnecessary the'trimming step above described, and at the same time affording a saving in the amount of lining material employed, or alternatively, cutting the lining as just suggested but leaving a small central tab to act as a centering element in the pulling over operation and to afford a grip for the lasting nippers. Moreover if the upper include a doubler, the latter also may be cut scant so as not substantially to overlap the inner sole after lasting. 1 also contemplate the employment of similar steps in lasting the heel portion of the upper, but at this part of the shoe, where the pleated material is not so much condensed as at the toe, it is not usually-necessary to shave off the overlapping folds in order to obtain the desired flat bottom surface.

Furthermore, while l[ have described the invention in its preferred embodiment as employing a toe box having a normally dry or inactive adhesive along its margin which becomes active when subjected to heat, the

invention is not necessarily limited thereto since in certain of its aspects it provides advantages, even though a more or less liquid cement may be employed which is applied to the overlapping portions of the toe box and/or the upper just before the latter are wiped in.

In the accompanying drawing in which I have illustrated certain desirable embodiments of the invention by way of example:

Fig. 1 is a bottom view of a shoe of a usual type, showing the appearance of the parts at the completion of the side lasting operation and before the toe lasting has been completed;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary bottom view of the shoe with the pulling over tacks removed and illustrating the performance of one desirable step of the present process;

Fig. 3 is a similar view illustrating a later step in the process;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a toe box or stiffener blank prepared in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a heater plate useful in performing the present process;

, Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the heating plate on the line 5 -5 of Fig. 5;

Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the same plate resting upon an electric stove and showing means for controlling the heat;

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary bottom view of the front portion of the shoe illustrating the performance of one of the later steps of the process;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary side elevation showing the parts positioned as in Fig. 7;

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary longitudinal secarass? tion showing a shoe on the last at the completion of the present improved lasting process;

Fig. 10 is a fragmentary bottom view of the shoe at the completion of the lasting process; and

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary View illustrating a lining having a centering tab in accordance with one form of the invention.

For convenience, I have chosen to illustrate the invention as embodied in a McKay shoe,side lasted in accordance with the socalled Littleway process, but it is to be understood that theinvention is not necessarily limited in all of its aspects at least to this type of shoe, nor is it dependent upon the particular side lasting process which may be employed.

In Fig. 9 the last is indicated at L, the inner sole at 1, the upper, usually of leather, at 2, (such upper comprising, if desired, the doubler 2,commonly a piece of textile or other fabric cemented to the upper for strengthening the latter) the lining 3, and the toe box or stiffener 4. i

In accordance with the present invention, the toe box or stiffener blank 4 may consist of any of the usual materials employed for this purpose, such, for example, as felt or cloth impregnated with a suitable stiffening medium, and for best results I find it desirable to make this blank of such size that its forward edge projects substantially beyond the margin of the upper with which it is assembled. The blank is preferably provided at its margin with a series of notches 5 to reduce the amount of material at this point and thus facilitate lasting. The marginal portion of the stiffener blank is also preferably skived or bevelled, and it is coated or impregnated with a cementitious substance which may be identical with the stiffening material, for example if the well known Beckwith box toe be employed the thermoplastic binder incorporated in the material of the box toe may serve as the cementitioussubstance. Preferablythiscementitious material is normally dry or substantially dry, that is to say, inactive, but becomes active as a uniting medium, when heated. One such material which I have found suitable for the purpose consists of Cumar gum, thinned with acetone and alcohol to the desired consistency for coating and impregnating the stiffener, but I contemplate that other adhesives may be found suitable for the purpose and do not wish to confine myself to this particular form of cement.

In accordance with the present invention, I. also provide a heater plate 7, preferably shaped to conform more or less closely to the contour of the forepart of the shoe bottom; such plate conveniently being of metal and having a handle 8 of heat insulating material by means of which it may be manipulated by the operator. This plate 7 is of suitable thickness to furnish the desired amount of heat, and preferably is slightly concave as shown at 7 a on its under surface, so as to confine its bearing surface to its outer margin. For convenience in heating this plate, I may provide a small electric stove 10 having a resistance coil or coils 11; such stove being mounted conveniently to the bed lasting machine. Since different degrees of heat are found desirable for heating different upper materials, I may, if desired, provide the stove with a rheostat 12 for controlling the current and, if desired, this rheostat may be provided with a pointer 13 cooperating with a dial having suitable graduations, or which is marked for example, to correspond to the different classes of material.

Alternatively, I may use other forms of stove, or may provide the heater plate itself with heating coils, and to vary the amount of heat available for such operation, I may (instead of using plates heated to different degrees) employ plates of different thicknesses or heat absorbing capacity adapted to furnish a greater or lesser number of heat units for the heating operation.

Having provided the above parts and materials, I proceed with the lasting of the shoe substantially as follows: The inner sole 1 is tacked to the last in the usual manner, and the upper is then assembled and pulled over, preferably by means of usual pulling ov-er machinery which inserts the pulling over tacks 14 at the toe portion of the upper, imparting to such toe portion the appearance shown in Fig. 1. The shoe is then side lasted, for example. by a machine which inserts the staples 15 for securing its margins to the inner sole, said staples in accordance with the usual and well known Littleway process extending only part way through the inner sole so as not to penetrate its inner surface, and having their leg portions so bent or curved as firmly to anchor them in place, and the heel portion of the upper may be lasted in more or less as desired at this time.

The shoe is now ready for the completion of the lasting process in accordance with the present invention, and at this stage of the process, the pulling over tacks 14 are withdrawn and the margin of the upper at the forepart is opened out as shown in Fig. 2

and the surplus projecting part of the lining 3 is preferably trimmed off substantially flush with the under side of the inner sole by means of a knife 16 or other suitable instru-v ment, thus exposing the projecting marginal portion of the stiffener or toe box 4. Preferably, in accordance with the present invention the doubler 2? is cut scant so that it terminates as shown at 2, Fig. 9, substantially flush with the edge of the inner sole.

Alternatively, instead of cutting the lining full, and then cutting away its margin after pulling over, I may cut it scant except for a central projecting tab 3" as shown on the lining 3 (Fig. 11) such tab serving to center the lining during pulling over and affording a hold for the lasting nippers, but being of small extent need not be cut away after the pulling over operation.

After the marginal portion of the lining has been removed as described, the toe portion is subjected to the usual operation of the wiper plates of the bed lasting machine, which wipe in the margin of the toe boX and lining, forming pleats P in the material at the toe as shown for example in Fig. 3. If the upper material is thick and bulky, it may be desirable at this point in the operation to shave off the pleated portion P of the upper at the toe, for example by the use of a knife 17 or other suitable instrument, such procedure being permissible in this case due to the continuous attachment of the upper and the box to the inner sole afforded by the adhesive. However, this shaving operation may not be necessary if the toe portion of the shoe is not pointed or if the material of the upper is thin and light.

Whether or not this shaving operation is performed, the heater plate 7 is now removed from the stove 10 and laid upon the inturned marginal portions of the upper at the toe and the wiper plates W of the bed lasting machine are brought down with substantial pressure upon the margins of the plate 7, thus pressing the latter very iirmly against the margin of the upper, it being noted that the edge of the toe box projects inwardly beyond the upper so that it comes into direct contact with the plate 7. The operator leaves the parts in this position while completing the lasting of the heel portion of the shoe, for example, by the operation of the heel wiper plates of the bed laster. During this interval the heat of the plate 7 causes the adhesive on the margin of the toe box or stiil'ener 4 to become active and as such margin now lies in direct contact with the under surface of the inner sole, (the lining at this point having been removed), and also in contact with the inner surface of the upper, the adhesive infiltrates into the substance of both inner sole and upper, thus firmly welding or uniting the toe box to the inner sole, and uniting the upper to the toe box or stiffener. By the time the heel lasting operation is completed the cementitious substance will have set and substantially resumed its normal hard condition. The bed laster plates W are now lifted and the shoe is withdrawn, leaving the marginal portions of the upper and stiffener firmly anchored to the inner solo by the cementitious material, as above described. The bottom of the shoe now has substantially the appearance shown in Fig. 10, it being noted that at 18 (Fig. 10) where the pleated material has been shaved oil at P (Fig. 3) a smooth flat surface is left without any surplus material which requires subsequent removal, and thus the usual operations of grinding and pounding are not necessary. After completion of the lasting operation ust described the outer sole is laid directly over the folded-in edge portion of the upper and attached to the inner solo in accordance with the particular kind of shoe which is being made. For example, if as already suggested and herein specifically disclosed, the shoe be of McKay type, the outer sole is stitched to the inner sole in the usual manner by through-andthrough stitches.

fVhile the present process is of particular utility in lasting the toe, T contemplate that a similar process may be used in lasting the heel portion of the shoe. Furthermore, while it is convenient, and for many reasons desirable, to provide the desired adhesive by first applying it to or incorporating it in the stiffener before assembling the parts, T contemplate that so far as the finished shoe is concerned, similar results may be obtained by applying the adhesive to the edge of the upper before assembly, or to the projecting margins of the stiffener and/or the upper after the lining has been trimmed away as above described, and for the latter purpose I also contemplate the use of a cement which is softened by heat, but which hardens again very quickly. For example, the substance known as Burgundy pitch may be found useful when the process is modified in this way. Various other changes in materials employed may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention and it is to be understood that the order of steps above enumerated maybe varied as desired, and that when in the appended claims such steps are enumerated, the specified order is not to be regarded as a limitation.

I claim:

1. That method of lasting the end portion of a shoe which comprises as steps wiping in the marginal portion of the upper at said end by means of the wiper plates of a bed laster, retracting said plates, disposing a heated member upon said end portion of the shoe bottom, and bringing said wiper plates down upon said heated member to cause the latter to level and set the wiped-in portions of the upper.

2. That method of lasting shoes which comprises as steps wiping in the marginal portion of the shoe upper at the toe of the shoe over the sole member by means of the wipers of a bed lasting machine and interposing a cementitious medium between them, and subjecting such wiped-in portion to heat and pressure by means interposed between .the Wipers and the marginal material such aeraesr as to flatten and level it and set the latter in wiped-in position.

3. That method of lasting the forepart of a shoe which comprises as steps wiping in 5 the margin of the toe portion of the shoe upper onto an insolemounted on a last by the use of bed lasting wipers, lifting the wipers, interposing a substantially rigid presser plate between the lifted wipers and the wiped-in marginal material, said plate covering substantially all of the wiped-in material, bringing the wipers forcibly down on said presser plate so as to flatten and level all of said wiped-in material, and main taining the pressure by means of the lasting Wipers while permanently securing the marginal material firmly to the insole.

45. That method of lasting an end portion of a shoe which comprises as steps working the marginal portions of the upper material at the end of the shoe inwardly over an insole mounted on a last by means of bed lasting wipers, lifting the wipers, interposing a presser device between the lifted wipers and the insole, said presser device extending uninterruptedly at its rear portion from side to side of the shoe and covering substantially all of the wiped-in material, and by use of the wipers forcing said presser device downward to flatten and level all of said wiped-in material.

5. That method of lasting a selected portion of a shoe which comprises as steps preparing a heater plate of a size and contour to cover substantially all of-that portion of the bottom of the shoe which is to be lasted, said, plate extending uninterruptedly from side to side of. the shoe bottom, wiping in the margin of the upper at said part of the shoe by means of the wipers of a bed lasting machine, heating said plate and disposing it directly upon said wiped-in portion of the up-- per while the shoe is in the lasting machine, and subjecting the plate to such pressure by means of the lasting machine wipers as to level and set the wiped-in material.

6. That method of lasting shoes which comprises as steps wiping in marginal portions of the shoe upper at the toe of the shoe by means of the wipers of a bed lasting machine, placing a heated plate, independent of the wipers, over the wiped-in material, such plate being stifl and rigid and extending uninterruptedly from side to side of the shoe bottom at the toe portion thereof, and applying substantially unyielding pressure to said heated plate while the shoe is still in the lasting machine whereby to flatten and level the wiped-in material and set it in flat condition.

7. That method of lasting the end portion of a shoe which comprises as steps working the marginal portion of upper material inwardly over an insole mounted upon a last by repeated advance and retraction of bed.

lasting wipers in usual manner, introducing cement between the wiped-in material and the insole at some stage in the wiping-in operation, lifting the wipers from the shoe, insorting a presser plate between the lifted wipers and the wiped-in material, bringing the wipers down upon said presser plate with force sufficient to flatten the wiped-in material, and maintaining the pressure by means of the wipers until the cement has substantially set. v

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consist in working the margin of the toe end portion of upper materials into lasted position upon the bottom face of an insole on a last by the wipers of a lasting machine, retracting the wipers, interposing adhesive between the wiped-in margin and the insole, applying a presser plate to the wiped-in marginal material, said plate extending from the inner edge of such material outwardly beyond the edge of the insole, forcing said plate against said material by means of the lasting machine wipers with pressure suflicient to flatten the material against the insole, maintaining said plate in pressure-applying relation to said margin by means of the wipers until the adhesive has substantially set, thereafter removing the plate, applying an outsole, and securing it to the insole by suitable attaching means.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in working the margm of the toe end portion of an upper into lasted position upon the bottom face of an insole on a last by the wipers of a lasting machine, applying a presser plate to the toe portion only of said wiped-in material, said plate extending from the inner edge of said material outwardly at least substantially as far as the edge of the insole and covering substantially all of the wiped-in material, subjecting said plate to substantially unyielding pressure applied by the bed lasting wipers and, by the use of cementitious material, causing the upper to adhere to the insole under said pressure, maintaining the pressure applied by said wipers until the cementitious material has substantially set, thereafter releasing the wiped-in material from such pressure and completing the shoe.

10. That improvement in methods of makint ing shoes which consists in working the margin of the toe end portion of upper materials into lasted position upon the bottom face of an insole on a last by the wipers of a bed lasting machine, thereby producing pleats in the wiped-in material, introducing a cementitious substance between the insole and said wiped-in material, applying a plate devoid of work penetrating elements to the pleated wiped-in margin of the upper materials, while the shoe is still in the bed lasting machine, applying substantially unyielding pressure to said plate by means of the bed its lasting uppers to flatten said pleated marginal materials against the bottom face of the insole over the entire Width of said marginal materials, holding said plate under pressure by means of the wipers until the cementitious material has substantially set, and thereafter releasing the margin from pressure, applying an outsole and permanently securing it in position.

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes, of the kind in which the outer sole is secured directly upon the margin of the up per lying parallel to the shoe bottom and over an insole, which comprises as steps lasting the margin of upper materials at the toe end of a last inwardly over the bottom face of an insole, mounted on the last, by means of the wipers of a bed lasting machine so as to cause the wiped-in material to lie in pleats, shaving olf so much of that portion of the material in which the pleats are formed as to make the exposed surface of all of the wiped-in material, including the pleated portions thereof, substantially flat and parallel to the insole while the shoe remains in the bed lasting machine, removing the Wipers out of operative relation to the shoe, removing the shoe from the lasting machine, and thereafter completing the shoe.

12. That method of lasting the toe portion of a shoe which comprises as steps preparing a heater plate of a size and contour substantially like that of the forepart of the shoe bottom, wiping in the marginal portion of the upper by means of the wipers of a bed lasting machine, shaving 0d a portion of the wiped-in material of the upper at the center of the toe, heating the plate and disposing the plate upon the wiped-in marginal portion of the upper, and pressing the plate forcibly down onto said wiped in and shaved portion of the margin by means of the lasting machine wipers so as to flatten and set said margin.

13. That improvementin methods of making shoes which consists in working the margin of the toe end portion of the upper materials so as to cause it to lie in pleats upon the bottom face of an insole, mounted on a last, by means of the wipers of a bed lasting machine, shaving ofl the tops of the pleats at the central portion of the toe, applying to the wiped-in marginal material a presser plate which extends at least substantially as far outward as the edge of the insole and which covers substantially all of the wiped-in material, pressing said plate with substantially unyielding pressure into engagement with the wiped-in material by means of the wipers of the bed lasting machine, and mamtaining the pressure by means of the wipers'until the wiped-in margin of the upper has set in lasted position.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes, of the kind in which the outer sole is secured directly upon the margin of the upper lying parallel to the shoe bottom and over an insole which, consists in Working the margin of the toe end portion of the upper materials into lasted position upon an insole on a last by means of the Wipers of a bed lasting machine thereby producing pleats at the toe, shaving off the tops of the pleats at the center of the toe to make the exposed surface of the pleated material level with the remainder of the wiped-in material, applying a presser plate to the shaved surface of the wiped-in toe portion of the upper materials while the shoe is still in the bed lasting machine, pressing said plate against the wiped-in material by means of the bed lasting wipers and maintaining the pressure substantially undiminished while causing cementitious material to unite the upper and insole, and then releasing the wiped-in toe material from such pressure and completing the manufacture of theshoe.

15. The improved method of manufacturing boots or shoes having insole and upper elements, comprising applying to at least one of said elements a normally non-sticky adhesive which is rendered sticky by the application of heat, lasting the upper element across the edge and overthe outer face of the insole into final operative position relative to each other prior to the application of heat to render the adhesive sticky, and then disposing a heated plate upon that lasted over portion of the upper element which will not be exposed in the finished shoe thereby,

to render the adhesive sticky, and holding said plate forcibly against said lasted-over portion of the upper by means of lasting wipers until the adhesive has set sufficiently to unite the insole and upper elements.

. 16. The improved method of manufacturing boots or shoes which includes the steps of providing the marginal portion of one element at least of a multiply boot'or shoe upper, including a stifl'ener member, with a i;

coating of normally dry adhesive capable of being rendered tacky by heat, assembling said"upper with an insole on a last, pulling over the toe portion of the upper, mounting the last in a bed lasting machine having un-' heated wipers, removing the pulling-over tacks at the toe portion of the upper, wiping the marginal parts of said upper at the toe, including said stifiener element inwardly over the insole by means of the bed lasting wipers, and thereafter subjecting the Wipedin toe portion of the upper material to heat while applying downward pressure by means of said wipers, the heat being suliicient to render the adhesive tacky, and maintaining said pressure upon said wiped-in material until the adhesive unites the insole and such wiped-in upper material.

17. That process of lasting shoes which comprises as steps preparing an upper, a linnames? ing, and an inner sole, preparing a toebox having a notched and skived lower margin,

providing said lower margin of the toe box with a normally dry adhesive which becomes active when heated, assembling the parts, pulling over the upper, lining and toe box, and causing their marginal portions to overlie the under surface of the inner sole, trimming away the lapping portion of the lining, laying a heated plate upon the marginal portions of the upper and toe box whereby to soften the adhesive material, and holding said plate with substantially unyielding pressure against said marginal portions until the adhesive has set.

18. That' process of lasting shoes which comprises as steps preparing an upper, a lining, and an inner sole, preparing a toe box having a notched and skived margin, providing said margin of the toe box with a normally inactive adhesive which becomes active when heated, assembling the parts, pulling over the upper, lining and toe-box and causing their marginal portions to overlie'the under surface of the toe portion of the inner sole, trimming away the lapping portion of the lining, and heating the marginal portion of the toe box to activate the adhesive while covering substantially all of said marginal portion of the toe box by means of a presser plate which extends uninterruptedly across the toe portion of the shoe, and applying force to the presser plate to press saidv marginal ortion of the toe box against the under sur ace of the inner sole so as to stick it to the latter.

19. That process of lasting shoes which comprises as steps preparing an upper, a lining, and an inner sole, preparing a toe box having a notched margin, providing said margin of the toe box with a normally dry adhesive which becomes active when heated, assembling the parts, pulling over the upper, lining, and toe box, wiping in their marginal portions over the under surface of the inner sole by means of the wipers of a bedlasting machine and trimming away the lapping portion of the lining, preparing a heat,- er plate of a shape substantially conforming to the toe portion of the shoe, retracting the bed lasting wipers, disposing said plate'upon the marginal wiped-in portions of the upper and toe box, and forcing the plate while hot, by means of the bed lasting wipers, with substantial pressure against said margins whereby to cause said adhesive permanently to unite the margins of the toe box and upper to the inner sole. v

20. That I improvement in methods of making shoes having box toes, which consists in working the margin of the toe end portion of the upper materials, including cementitious stiffening material, into lasted position upon the bottom face of an insole on a last by means of the wipers of a lasting machine,

then applying a presser plate, independent of the wipers and devoid of work penetrating prongs, to the wiped-in margin of the upper materials, while the shoe is still in the lasting machine, pressing said plate by means of the bed lasting wipers directly down upon said margin to flatten the latter upon the bottom face of the insole while forcing the cementitious stiffening material in said margin against the insole, maintaining such pressure upon the plate by means of the wipers until the stiffening material has set and. has stuck the marginal materials to the insole, and thereafter releasing the margin from said pressure, applying an outsole, and securing it to the insole.

21. That method of making shoes which comprises preparing an upper, a lining-and a sole member, mounting the sole member upon a last, pulling the upper and lining over the last, trimming away surplus lining material, wiping in the-marginal portions of the upper tolay them in pleats at the toe, shaving off the top of the pleats at the central part ofthe toe, interposing a presser member independent of the wipers between the wipers and the wiped-in material, and

comprises preparing an upper, a lining, a

sole member, and a stiffener, assembling the stiffener with the lining and upper, mounting the sole member on a last, pulling over the upper, lining and stifiener over the last, trimming away the lining so that its edge is substantially flush with the edge of the sole member, wiping in the marginal portions of the upper and stiffener to cause them to lie in pleats. at the toe by the use of lasting machine wipers, shaving 0d the top of the pleats at the center of the toe, causing the inner surface of the marginal wiped-in material to become adhesive, disposing a pres sure applying plate independent of the wip- I ers upon the wiped-in pleated portion of the margin, and, while the shoe-is still in the lasting machine, causing said plate to hold said pleated portion under flattening pressure for a time sufficient to a low the adhesive to unite the wiped-in material to the sole member.

23. That process of lasting shoes which comprises as steps preparing an upper, a lining, and an inner sole, preparing a toe box having a notched and skived forward margin, providing said margin of the toe box with a normally dry adhesive which becomes active when heated, assembling the parts,

pulling over the upper, lining, and toe box and causing their marginal portions to overhe the under surface of the inner sole, trimming away the lapping portion of the lining, Wiping in the marginal portion of the upper andtoe box by means of the wipers of a bed lasting machine, interposing a presser member between the Wipers and the wiped-in material, heating the marginal portion of the toe box after the Wiping operation is substantially complete to cause the adhesive to become active, and causing said presser member to exert flattening pressure upon said wiped-in marginal material until the adhesive has set.

24. That method of making shoes which comprises preparing an upper, a lining, a sole member, and a stiffener, assembling the stifi'ener member with the upper, mounting the sole member upon a last, pulling the upamass? per, lining, and stifiener over the last, the stiffener comprising a substance which be comes sticky when heated, trimming away the lining so that its edge is substantially flush with the edge of the sole member, wiping the marginal portions of the upper, and stift'ener inwardly over the sole member by means of lasting machine Wipers, disposing a heated presser member, independent of the wipers, upon the wiped-in material, While the shoe is still in the lasting machine, and causing said presser member to exert flattening pressure upon said material until the marginal portion of the upper adheres to the stifl'ener.

JACQB S. KAMBURIAN.

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