US1989279A - Shoe and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 29, 1935. J. 5. KAMBORIAN 1,989,279

SHOE AND METHOD OF mum THE SAME Original Filed Feb. 16, 1931 fave 7%? Patented Jan. 29, 1935 Jacob' S. Kamborian, West Newton,

Mass., as-

signor to Northern Machine 00., Inc., Boston, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Original application February 16, 1931, Serial No. Divided and this application May 9,

1932, Serial No. 610,013

6 Claims.

This invention relates to footwear and more particularly to a shoe of improved construction and to a process of lasting such a shoe, the present application being a division of my copending application Serial No. 515,921, filed February 16, 1931. In accordance with the usual processes of lasting,.the upper is pulled over at the toe, commonly by machine, and tacks are temporarily inserted at the toe to hold this portion of the upper in place while the shoe is lasted at the sides. After completion of the side lasting, the tacks at the toe are removed, and the toe and heel lasting is commonly completed on a bed laster comprising movable wiper plates, which are caused to move inwardly and over the projecting marginal portions of the upper, thereby causing said projecting portions to become pleated or folded inwardly over and upon the under surface of the inner sole. While held in this position by the wiper plates, the operator inserts ,closely spaced tacks to secure the edge of the upper to the inner sole. pleated material at the toe, it is usual to trim oif that part of the toe box, which projects below the level of the last bottom and thus in the completed shoe the toe box finds no anchorage to the inner sole. For this reason the toe portion of the shoe is not as strong as might be desired, and the upper tends to bulge or spread laterally when the shoe is subjected to the pounding operation and also during use.

Furthermore according to the usual methods of lasting, even after the lower part of the box has been removed, as above described, the bulk of the pleated material at the toe is so great that the relatively movable wiper plates of the bed laster will not flatten it down to a level surface, and

after lasting it is necessary to grind away this part of the shoe bottom, a crude operation which tears away portions of the margins of the upper and lining and which necessitates the further operation of pounding to reduce the remainder to a passably fiat condition. These operations of grinding and pounding add to the cost of making the shoe and in the case of the cheaper grades, where the lasts are pulled as soon as possible after lasting, this pounding and grinding slows up the entire operation.

In accordance with the present invention I provide a shoewhich may be made accurately to conform to the last at the toe portion and which retains its shape indefinitely after lasting without tendency to spread or.bulge,.-these improved results being due in part at least to the fact that the margin of the toe box, as well as the margin In order to avoid undue fullness of the.

of the usual materials) but preferably having its forward or lower margin notched and also skived, such notched marginal portion being coated or impregnated with a suitable quick-setting cement preferably of a kind which when heated tends firmly to unite the toe box to adjacent parts. The thermoplastic binder of the well known Beckwith box toe possesses the requisite qualities to some extent at least. I also provide a heater device, conveniently a stiff plate of metal shaped to conform more or less closely to the toe portion of the shoe to be lasted, such plate having a handle or other suitable means by which it may be manipulated. This plate may be heated to the desired temperature in any suitable manner, as for example by the use of a stove, or by supplying it with electrical resistance coils. y

In lasting the shoe, the toe is first pulled over .according to usual methods and the sides are lasted. The pulling over tacks are then removed, the projecting margin of the lining is trimmed away substantially flush with the under surface of the sole, and the operator then wipes in the marginal portion of the upper and the toe box by means of the bed laster. The wiper plates of the laster are then withdrawn and lifted, and if the material of the upper is especially thick or bulky, the central part of the pleated material may be shaved oif level. The heater plate is laid upon the pleated material and the wipers of the bed left there for a short time to allow the adhesive on the box to infiltrate into the adjacent insole and upper. parts in this position while the operator is completing the lasting of the heel. Since the heater plate is continuous, stiff and rigid it actsto iron out or flatten the pleated material much more effectively than the wiper plates, the heat of the plate alone helping toset the material in flattened condition. The wiper plates-are then lifted, the heater is-removed, and the marginalv portions of the toe box are now found to be securely stuck or-weldedlto the margins of the uppertand to the inner sole,the pleated material lying fiat, smooth and level. In this manner the toe box is anchored Usually it is sufiicient to leave the securely to the inner sole so as to impart unusual strength to the toe portion of the shoe. The notching of the toe box and the trimming of the lining reduces the bulk of the material at the toe so that except when the upper is thick, it is not a position as to interfere with the subsequent operation of attaching the outer sole or to cause discomfort to the wearer. In order completely to eliminate metallic fasteners from the inside of the shoe I prefer to side last the shoe by the use of the so-called Littleway process in which staples which do not penetrate the inside of the insole are employed.

I am aware that it has been proposed to stick the margins of the upper and. lining to the inner sole by means of adhesive such as rubber cement, cellulose acetate or nitrate, or other cementitious substances which take a long time to set, and

' that it has been proposed, when using such materials, to hold the parts in place while the ocment is setting by means of clampingplates attached to the inner sole of the shoe by prongs or tacks, or to the last itself by bolts, but'such processes necessitate the provision of great numbers of the clamping plates and/or the employment of special lasts; they slow up the lasting process and add to the cost of production; they leave the inner sole with undesirable holes and in most cases employ liquid cement which daubs the exposed parts of the upper, and these various disadvantages have brought such prior processes into disrepute in the trade. Such prior proposed methods are not to be compared with the present preferred process wherein the heater plate is used to actuate the adhesive'and is associated with the shoe "for only a fraction of a minute, for example approximately nine seconds.

I regard the present improved method as inclusive pf various modifications, such for example as cutting the lining so that after lasting it does not overlap the inner sole to any substantial extent, thus making unnecessary the trimming step above described, and at the same time affording a saving in the amount of lining material employed, or alternatively, cutting the lining as just suggested but leaving a small central tab to act as a centering element in the pulling over operation and to afford a grip for the' lasting nippers. Moreover if the upper includes a doubler, the latter also may be cut scant so as not substantially to overlap the inner sole after lasting. I also contemplate the employment of similar steps in lasting the heel portion of the upper, but at this part of the shoe, where the pleated material is not so much condensed as at the toe, it is not usually necessary to shave off the overlapping folds in, order to obtain the desired flat bottom surface.

Furthermore, while I have described the invention in its preferred embodiment as employing a toe box having a normally dry or inactive adhesive along its margin which becomes active when subjected to heat, the invention is not necessarily limited thereto since in certain of its aspects it provides advantages, even though a more or less liquid cement may be employed which is applied to the overlapping portions of the toe box and/or the upper just before the latter are wiped in or during the wiping-in operation.

In the accompanying drawing in which I have illustrated certain desirable embodiments of the invention by way of example:

Fig. 1 is a bottom view of a shoe of a usual I type, showing the appearance of the parts at the completion of the side lasting operation and before the toe lasting has been completed;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary bottom view of the shoe with the pulling over tacks removed and illustrating the performance of one desirable step of the present process;

Fig. 3 is a similar view illustrating in the process;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a toe box or stiffener blank prepared in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a heater plate useful in'performing the present process;

Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the heating plate on the line 5 -5- of Fig. 5;

Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the same plate resting upon an electric stove and showing means for controlling the heat;

a later step Fig. '7 is a fragmentary bottom view of the front portion of the shoe illustrating the performance of one of the later steps of the process;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary side elevation showing the parts positioned as in Fig. I;

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary longitudinal section showing a shoe on the last at the completion of the present improved lasting process;

Fig. 10 is a fragmentary bottom view of the shoe at the completion of the lasting process;

and

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary view illustrating a lining having a centering tab in accordance with one form of the invention.

For convenience, I have chosen to illustrate the invention as embodied in a McKay shoe,-side lasted in accordance with the so-called Littleway process, but it is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited in all of its aspects at least to this type of shoe, nor is it dependent upon the particular side lasting process which may be employed.

In Fig. 9 the last is indicated at L, the inner sole at 1, the upper, usually of leather, at 2, (such upper comprising, if desired, the doubler 2 ,-commonly a piece of textile or other fabric cemented to the upper for strengthening the latter) the lining 3, and the toe box or stiffener 4.

In accordance with the present invention, the

toe box or stiffener blank 4 may consist of any of the usual materials employed for this purpose, such, for example, as felt or cloth impregnated with a suitable stiffening medium, and for best results I find it desirable to make this blank of such size that its forward edge projects substantially beyond the margin of the upper with which it is assembled. The blank is preferably provided at its margin with a series of notches 5 to reduce the amount of material at this point and thus facilitate lasting. The marginal portion of the stiffener blank is also preferably skived or bevelled, and it is coated or impregnated with a cementitious substance which may be identical with the stiffening material, for example if the well known Beckwith 'box toe be employed the thermoplastic binder incorporated in the material of the box toe may serve as the cementitious substance, preferably normally dry or substantially dry, that is to say,

,it may be manipulated by the operator.

inactive, but becomes active as a uniting medium, when heated. One such material which I have found suitable for the purpose consists of Cumar gum, thinned with acetone and alcohol to the desired consistency for coating and impregnating the stiffener, but I contemplate that other adhesives may be found suitable for the purpose and do not wish to confine myself to this particular form of cement.

In accordance with the present invention, I also provide a presser plate 7, preferably shaped to conform more or less closely to the contour of the forepart of the shoe bottom; such plate conveniently being of metal and having a handle'8 of heat insulating material by means of which This plate 7 is of suitable thickness to furnish the desired amount of heat, and preferably is slightly concave as shown at '7 on its under surface, so as to confine its bearing surface to its outer margin. For convenience in heating this plate, I may provide a small electric stove 10 having a resistance coil or coils 11; such stove being mounted conveniently to the bed lasting machine. Since different degrees of heat are found desirable for heating different upper materials, I may, if desired, provide the stove with a rheostat 12 for controlling the current and, if desired, this rheostat may be provided with a pointer 13 cooperating with a dial-having suitable graduations, or which is marked for example, to correspond to the different classes of material.

Alternatively, I may use other forms of stove, or may provide the heater plate itself with heating coils, and to vary the amount of heat available for such operation, I may (instead of using plates heated to different degrees) employ plates of different thicknesses or heat absorbing capacity adapted to furnish a greater or lesser number of heat units for the heating operation.

Having provided the above parts and materials, I proceed with the lasting of the shoe substantially as follows: The inner sole 1 is-tacked to the last in the usual manner, and the upper is then assembled and pulled over, preferably by means of usual pulling over machinery. which inserts the pulling over tacks 14 at the toe portion of the upper, imparting to such toe portion the appearance shown in Fig. l. The shoe is then side lasted,

for example, by a machine which inserts the staples 15 for securing its margins to the inner sole, said staples in accordance with the usual and well known Littleway process extending only part way through the inner sole so as'not to penetrate its inner surface, and having their leg portions so bent or curved as firmly to anchor themin place, and the heel portion of the upper may be lasted in more or less as desired at this time.

The shoe is now ready for the completion of the lasting process in accordance with the present invention, and at this stage of the process, the pulling over tacks 14 are withdrawn and the margin of the upper at the forepart is opened out as shown in Fig. 2 and the surplus projecting part of the lining 3 is preferably trimmed off sub stantially fiush with the under side of the inner sole by means of a knife 16 or other suitable instrument, thus exposing the projecting marginal portion of the stiffener ortoe box 4. Preferably, in accordance with the present invention the doubler 2 is cut scant so that it terminates as shown at 2*, Fig. 9, substantially flush with the edge of the inner sole.

Alternatively, instead of cutting the lining full, and then cutting away its margin after pulling over, I may cut it scant except for a central projecting tab 3 as shown on the lining 3" (Fig. 11) such tab serving to center the lining during pulling over and affording a hold for the lasting nippers, but being of small extent need not be cut away after the pulling over operation.

After themarginal portion of the lining has been removed as described, the toe portion is subjected to the usual operation of the wiper plates of the bed lasting machine, which wipe in the margin of the toe box and lining, forming pleats P in the material at the toe as shown for example in Fig. 3. If the upper material is thick and bulky, it may be desirable in this point in the operation to shave off the pleated portion P of the upper at the toe, as for example by the use of a knife 17 or other suitable instrument, such procedure being permissible in this case due to the continuous attachment of the upper and the box to the inner sole afforded by the adhesive. However, this shaving operation may not be necessary if the toe portion of the shoe is not pointed or if the material of the upper is thin and I light. 7

Whether or not this shaving operation is performed, the heater plate '7 is now removed from the stove 10 and laid upon the inturned marginal portions of the upper at the toe and the wiper plates W of the bed lasting machine are brought wiper plates of the bed laster. During this shortinterval the heat of the plate 7 causes the adhesive on the margin of the toe box or stiffener 4 to become active and as such margin now lies in direct contact with the under surface of the inner sole, (the lining at this point having been removed), and also in contact with the inner surface of the upper, the adhesive infiltrates into the substance of both inner sole and upper, thus firmly welding or uniting the toe box to the inner sole, and uniting the upper to the toe box or stiffener. By the time the heel lasting operation is ,completed the cementitious substance will have set and substantially resumed its normal hard condition. The bed laster plates W are now lifted and the shoe is withdrawn, leaving the marginal portions of the upper and stiffener firmly anchored to the inner sole by the cementitious material, as above described. The bottom of the shoe now has substantially the appearance shown in Fig. 10, it being noted that at 18 (Fig. 10) where the pleated material has been shaved off at P (Fig. 3) a smooth flat surface is left without any surplus material which requires subsequent removal, and thus. the usual operations of grinding and pounding are not necessary. After completion of the lasting operation just described the outer sole is laid directly over the folded-in edge portion of the upper and attached to the inner sole in accordance with the particular kind of shoe which is being made. For example, if, as already suggested and herein specifically disclosed, the shoe be of McKay type, the outer sole is stitched to the inner sole in the usual manner by through-and-through stitches.

While the present process is of particular utility in lasting the toe, I contemplate that a similar process may be used in lasting the heel por- I upper after the lining has been trimmed awayas above described, and for the latter purpose I also contemplate the use of a cement which is softened by heat, but which hardens again very quickly, or a liquid cement which hardens and sets quickly when heated. For example, the substances known as Burgundy pitch and rubberlatex may be found useful when the process is modified in these ways respectively. Various other changes in materials employed may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention and it is to be understood that the order of steps above enumerated may be varied as desired, and that when in the appended claims such steps are enumerated, thespecified order is not to be regarded as a limitation.

I claim:

l. A shoe having an inner sole, an upper and a lining, the lining at the end of the shoe terminating substantially at the lower edge of the inner sole, the marginal portionsof the upper extending beneath the inner sole, means securing said marginal portions of the upper to the inner sole, and permanent metallic fastenings holding the upper and insole in assembled relation along the sides of the shoe, said fastenings entering the insole but failing to penetrate its inner face.

2. A shoe having a sole member, an upper, a lining, and a toe box, the lining terminating substantially at the edge of the sole member at the toe portion of the latter, the marginal portions of the upper and box being disposed beneath the sole member, and adhesive permanently securing said marginal portions to the sole member and to each other, and staplessecuring the upper to the insole along the sides of the shoe, said staples entering the insole but failing to penetrate its inner face,

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in securing the margin of upper materials in lasted position on the bottom face of an insole along portions at least of the opposite sides of a shoe by metallic fastenings anchored in the body of the insole without penetrating its inner face, working the margin of the toe end portion of upper material into lasted position upon the bottom face'of an insole on a last by the wipers of a lasting machine, retracting the wipers, interposing adhesive between the wipedin margin and the insole, applying a presser member, devoid of work penetrating elements, to the wiped-in marginal material, said member extending from the inner edge of such material outwardly at leastto the edge of the insole, forcing said member against said material by means of the lasting machine wipers with pressure sufiicient to flatten the material against the insole, maintaining such member in pressure applying relation to said margin by means of the wipers until the adhesive has substantially set, thereafter removing said member, applying an outsole, and securing the latter to the insole by suitable attaching means.

4.' A shoe having an inner sole and an upper, the latter including a lining, the lining at the end of the shoe terminating substantially at the plane of the bottom of the inner sole, the marginal portions of the upper overlapping and lying substantially parallel to and in contact with the under surface of the insole, cementitious material permanently uniting said marginal portion of the upper to the inner sole, and connecting means permanently uniting the upper and inner sole in assembled relation along the sides of the shoe, said connecting means engaging the inner sole but failing to penetrate its inner. face.

5. A shoe having a sole memberfan upper including a lining and a .toe box, the lining terminating substantially at the plane of the bottom of the sole at the toe portion of the latter, the marginal portions of the upper and box being disposed beneath the solemember, and adhesive permanently securing said marginal portions to the sole member and to each other, and connecting means permanently uniting the upper to the sole member along the sides of the shoe, said connecting means engaging the sole member but failing to penetrate its inner face.

6. A lasted shoe ready for application of an outer sole, said shoe comprising an inner sole, an upper including a lining, the lining at the toe of the shoe terminating substantially at the plane of the lower surface of the inner sole,'the marginal portion of the outer member of the upper being folded over onto the under surface of the inner sole, said folded-over marginal material being disposed in pleatsat the toe, the tops of the pleats being shaven oil so that the exposed surfaces of all of the folded-over material is substantially fiat and level, cementitious material permanently securing the folded-over marginal material at the toe of the shoe, and means permanently connecting the folded-over material to the inner sole along the sides of the shoe, said connecting means engaging the inner sole but failing to penetrate the entire thickness of the latter.

JACOB S. KAMBORIAN.

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