US1911816A - Method of forming the heel portions of shoes - Google Patents

Description

May 30, 1933. M, DODGE l 1,911,816

METHOD OF FORMING THE HEEL PORT'ONS OF SHOES Filed Oct. 25. 1930 @#wwmww@ Y l". BU

Patented May 30, 1933 UNITED STATES MILTON L. nonsn, or NEWBURYPORT, MASSACHUSETTS l METHOD F romaine THE I-I'EELPORTIoNs or strons Application filed October25, 19,30. Serial No. 491,103.

l In the formation of the heel portions of shoes, more particularly when wood heels areto be used, it is of great importance in the appearance of the shoe toprevent any gapping or grinning of the heel margin and the shoe upper, or any marked break in the contour line of the upper and the heel surface. It has been usual, therefore, for the shoeemaker to attempt by pounding on the heel portion of the upper when it is on the last to bring the upper into `proper place with reference to the heel. This, however, is troublesome and requires care, skill and time and is often very imperfectly done. By the use of a counter stiliener having a marginal outwardly extending rib in its at taching iiange, as shown and described in my Patent No. 1,430,158, dated September 26, 1922, the necessity of pounding up the heel portion may be either eliminated entirely or very much reduced, but unless care is exercised during the bed lasting operation, the pressure between the shoe and the heel wipers of the bed lasting machine may flatten this bed to such an extent that its full advantage may not be realized in practice. i

In accordance withV the present invention the shoe is so made that where a beaded iiange counter stifi'ener is employed, the bead is not crushed down during bed lasting and where a iiat flange in the counter is initially employed, the subsequent operations act to form a bead-simulating portion which to some extent at least facilitates the fitting of the heel margin. A

For a more complete understanding of this invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawing in which Figure 1 is a perspective of an innersole treated in accordance with one embodiment of this invention.

Figure 2 is a section on line 2 2 of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a somewhat diagrammatic section through the heel portion of a shoe employing the innersole of Figures 1 and 2 and showing in dotted lines the position of a wood heel.

Figure 4 is a fragmentary perspective of thevheel portion of an innersole showingl a modified construction. v f Figure 5 is a. bottom plan of a pair of heel wipers for a'bed laster, 'the wipers being formed in 'accordance with this inven- 55 tion.' 'i

Figure 6 is a somewhat diagrammatic sec-l tion through the wipers and heel portion of a shoe being bed lasted, the shoe-being pressed against the wipers. l' 6U Figure 7 isa view similar to Figure 6 but illustrating somewhat diagrainmatically the action of thewipers as shown in Figure 5 when' the shoe is lprovided with a counter initially having -a substantially flat secur` 65 ing flange, together with an innersole of uniform 'thickness from side toside.

`Referring to Figure 1, at 1 is` shown an innersole to the outer face of which at its margin is secured a strip 2 which forms a 7C marginal bead therefor extending outwardly beyondthe level of the innersole. Instead( of forming the bead in this'manner the outer face of the innersole may be recessed in- A wardly of its margin, as shownin Figures 4 75 at 3, thus leaving a marginal bead portion et ofthe full thickness of the innersole. vTlhis'innersolemay be tacked to the last in the usual manner, the bead extending outwardly, and the upper materials `lasted thereover,'as shown in Figure '3. The upper, materials will commonly include the attaching flange 5 of a counter stitl'ener 6 placed between the upper 7 and the lining- 8.v Preferably thecounter yflange 5 is pro- 85 vided' with a marginal outwardly Vextending bead as 10, as illustrated in' my Patent No. 1,430,158, hereinbefore mentioned, the bead 10 extending. overthe marginal bead of the innersole which'forms a filler therefor preventing the upper' materials from being crowded down and the liange bead 10 being crushedor flattened during the lasting operations.4 c

To further minimize the possibility of this bead being crushed, it is preferable to employ asp'ecial construction of-heel wipers on theV bed lasting machine by which the heelseat is commonly formed. Such wipers are illustrated -in Figure 5. As v therein over as is well known in the art.

' wipers may be of usual construction, except that adjacent to their inner margins they are provided with recesses v17 extending therealong parallel to the inner margins and in the faces of the wipers withwhichthe shoe is engaged. Thus as the wipers are moved inwardly the inner edge portions 18 thereof pass over the innersole and when fully wiped in they are positioned inwardly of the beads on the innersole and the counter flange. Then when the partially lasted shoe is pressed upwardly against the wipers in accordance with the usual method, and as shown by the arrow a in Figure 6, the upper materials are pressed strongly againstthe innersole inwardly of the marginal bead, but at the margin the pressure is reduced. This permits the upper materials to bulge outwardly beyond the level of those portions inwardly of the margin, to form a rounded seat portion 20 against which the marginal edge 21 of a wood heel may be firmly engaged without the' possibility of grinning or separation and with the shoe surfaces substantially continuous along the upper and over the outer surface of the heel. In case a counter with an initially fiat flange is employed in connection with an innersole having a marginal bead,- the pressure of the wipers on the upper materials tends to form a bead in the counter flange so that a similar nal result in the shaping of the heel seat of the shoe is produced, although this may not be effected to as great an extent as though the bead were initially formed in the counter flange.

It is also possible by the use of the wipers, as shown in Figure 5, to produce somewhat the same conformation ofthe shoe heel seat even when' using an innersole of uniform thickness from side to side at its heel portion and using a counter having a flat flange, this being shown in Figure 7. The pressure exerted by the inner edges 18 of the wipers is then localized inwardly of the margin of the innersole, compressing the upper materials inwardly of this margin and permitting'them to bulge upwardly toward the innersole Vmargin so that a beaded effect at the margin ofthe heel seat is produced, although usually less pronounced than where the innersole or the counter ange, or both, are provided with the beaded constructions. However, even this less pronounced bead aids materially in forming a close j ointwith the wood heel.

When the tacks as shown at 22 in Figure 3 are driven in to secure the lasted upper margins they are driven through these margins inwardly of the-beaded portion, the

pressure of the tacks being driven and clinched tending further to depress the portions wthin the bead and to accentuate the prominence of the. bead.

From the foregoing description of certain embodiments of this invention, it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications might be madel without departing from the spirit or scope of this invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim: v

1. The steps in the manufacture of shoes, which comprise wiping in the upper materials over the heel end of the shoe yand while 4under wiping pressure pressing the upper materials against the face of a sole member inwardly of the Vmargin, of said member to permit the upper materials of said margin to extend beyond the level of the pressed portions and to form a seat for the engagement of the marginal, edge of a wood heel.

2. In the manufacture of shoes, those steps which comprise forming a marginal outwardly extending bead on theheel portion of an innersole, and lasting in and con-- forming the upper materials over said bead and to the face of said innersole inwardly of said bead, whereby the upper materials at the margin of said innersole project beyond their position inwardly thereof and form a seat for engagement by the marginal edge of a wood heel.

3. In the manufacture of shoes, those steps which comprise wiping in the upper materialsv including the sole attaching flange of a counter stiffener ,over the heel end of the shoe and while under wiping pressure pressing said upper materials kincluding said flange against the face of a sole member inwardly of the margin of said member to permit said upper materials to extend beyond the level of the pressed portions and form a seat for engagement by the marginal edge of a wood heel. 4. In the manufacture of shoes, thos steps which comprise fixing a strip to the marginal portion of an innersole at its heel end to form an outwardly extending bead thereon, and lasting in and conforming the margin of the upper materials including a counter stiffener attaching flange to said bead and to the face of` the innersole inwardly 4of -said bead to form a marginal bulge in said material serving as a seat to receive the marginal edge of a -wood heel.

v 5'. In the manufacture of shoes, those steps which comprise removing the outer face of an innersole inwardly of its margin at the Vheel end to form a marginal routwardly extending bead, and lasting in and conforming the margin of the upper materials including a counter stifl'ener attaching Han-ge to said bead and to the face of the innersole inwardly of said bead to form a marginal bulge in said material serving as a leat to receive the marginal edge of a wood eel.

6. The steps in the manufacture of shoes, which comprise wiping in the upper materia-ls over the heel end of the shoe and while under wiping pressure pressing the upper materials against the face of a sole member inwardly of the margin of said member to permit the upper materials of said margin to extend beyond the level of the pressed portions and to form a seat for the engagement of the marginal edge of a wood heel, and then tacking said up er materials to the sole member inwardly o said bead.

7. In the manufacture of shoes, those steps which comprise lasting over the upper materials at the heel end of the shoe over a marginal outwardly extending bead on a sole member, then clinching fasteners through said materials and sole member in-y wardly of said bead and securing a heel in position with a margin bearing on said upper materials at said bead.

8. A shoe having a sole member provided with a thickened edge forming a marginal outwardly extending bead at its heel portion, upper materials extending over said bead and secured to said sole member inwardly of said bead and a heel having its margin bearing on said upper materials of said bead.

In testimony whereof I have afiixed my signature.

MILTON L. DODGE.

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