US1886521A - Knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

193?- P. w. BRISTOW ET AL 1,385,521

KNITTED FABRIC Original Filed April 11, 193L 4 Sheets-Sheet l l/YVE/VTOkS W/r/vsas: Harold $877747? an? Era 1.517326: :0

P. w. BRISTOW ET AL 1,336,521

KNITTED FABRIC Original Filed April 11, 1931. 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Nov. 8, 1932. P. w. BRISTOW ET AL KNITTED FABRIC Original Filed April 11, 1931. 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 a5; 72: u Z 551215 25020 W V 1 lfyafififyd.

1932. P. w. slsTow ET AL 1,386,521

KNITTED FABRIC Original Filed April 11, 1931* 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 flu Y Patented Nov. 8, 1932 I UNITED STATES.

PATIENT? oFFIcE PAUL W. BBIS'IOW, 01' WmGTON, AND HAIRO LD E. HOUSE'MAN, OF EDGE I003, DELA- WARE, ASSIGNOBS TO STANDARD-TRUMP BROS. COMPANY, Oil! WIIF- IINGTON', DELAWARE, A MBIOBATION OF DELAWARE KNITTED FABRIC Original application fled April 11, 1981, Serial-Io. 529,518. Divided and this application filed October 14,

1931. Serial No. 568,676.

This invention relates to a knitted fabric and a method and machine for making the same, the-fabric being of the type having designs formed by wrap or embroidery yarns.

This application is a division of our prior application, Serial No. 529,518, filed April 11, 1931,v for knitted fabric and process and machine-for producing same.

The well known process of producing designs by the use of a wrap yarn has heretofore generally included wrapping about needles above the latches thereof yarns difiering in appearance from the main yarn or yarns so that the wrapped yarns are knit into the 100 s with the main yarn and appear on the ace of the fabric in plated relationship thereto. When the pattern formed by the wrap yarns is to be interrupted, the wrap yarn 1s merely not wrapped about the needle. There then result floats of greater or less len h between-successive zones of plating whlch are undesirable, particularly in hoslery, and, if the design is elaborate, cannot be readily cut out.

These objectionable floats are avoided by the use of-the process disclosed in an a plication of Stanley R. Shelmire, Serial umber 497,977, filed November 25, 1930. Briefly, it involves wrapping each wrap yarn about a needle (either the same one or adjacent ones) in the formation of every course, the wrapping being carried out so that at the time of drawing the stitch the wrap yarn is either above or below the latch, whereby, in the former case it appears on the face of the fabric, or in the latter case it is linked into the loops, thus avoiding floats, but it is substantially invisible from the face of the fabric.

The machine shown in the Shelmire application referred to abovehas a rotary needle cylinder, which, of course, requires that the supplies of wrap yarns rotate. Obviously, if a large number of wrap yarns are used, this arrangement would require a large yarn support capable of rotating at the speed ofthe needle cylinder. It follows that the rotary cylinder machine is not ve well adapted for the production of comphcated wrap designs at high speeds.

In another application of Stanley R. Shelmire, Serial Number 469,056, filed July 19, 1930, there is disclosed a machine more suitable for the high speed production of intricate wrap designs involving a large number of wrap yarns, this machine involving a stationary needle cylinder and consequently yarn fingers which are stationary except for limited lation at one point resulting in invisible mcorporation of wrap yarns into the fabric, and manipulation at the other point, plating. Two variations of such manipulation may occur. In one, in the formation of any course, a wrapping device which is manipulated -at the first point is not manipulated at the sec-' ond while a device which is manipulated at the second point is not manipulated at the first. In this case the results are similar to those disclosed in the first mentioned Shelmire application.

In the second variation, all -'of the wrapping devices are mani ulated at the first point to result in invisi le wrapping. Then certain of the same wrapping devices are I manipulated at the second point to produce plating. In the resulting fabric, which constitutes a further object of the invention, the visible and invisible wrapping are in a sense superimposed whereby a greater weight of wrap yarn is incorporated into the fabric where plating occurs a heavy, embossed appearance results. This last procedure is further advantageous since proper plating is insured by the tightness of engagement of the wrap yarn with the needle.

Further objects of the invention relate to the phases of the. novel method and machine whereby this improved fabric is produced.

Other objects of the invention relating particularly to details will be apparent from the following description, read in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is an elevation, partly in section, of the parts of the machine adjacent the top of the needle cylinder;

Fig. 2is a plan view showing particularly the wrap finger controlling mechanism;

Fig. 3 is a developed inside view of the needle cams; e. F i 4 is a view similar to part of Fig. 2 showlng a modified mechanism;

Fi 5 is a diagrammatic view of the face of a fabric produced by the mechanism of Fi s. 1 to 3;,and

ig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 of a modified abric produced by the mechanism of Eeferring first to Figs. 1 to 3, there is illustrated a modification of the machine of the Shelmire application, Serial Number 469,056, only so much of this machine being illustrated as is necessary to an understandingv of the invention. For details reference may be made to this Shelmire application and the a plications of Harold E. Houseman, Ser. os. 422,818 and 427,709,. filed, respectively, J anuar 23, 1930 and February 12, 1930, the latter s owing suitable shogging means for the wrap fingers, which may be used is relatively narrow-panels of wrap designs are to be produced as compared with wrapping on substantiall all of the needles.

There is i ustrated at 2 a stationary needle cylinder of usual construction provided with vertical slots in which latch needles 4 are reciprocated in the conventional knitting wave by suitable rotating cams, other rotating cams serving to operate the cooperating sinkers slidably mounted in the stationary sinker dial 6. A rotating latch ring 10 of the construction illustrated in Shelmire application, Serial Number 469,056, serves to guide main yarn or yarns to the needles, belng carried, as are t e other rotating parts, by the rotatably and oscillatably mounted cam ring 8 driven in the usualmanner to rotate durin the formation of the leg and foot of the osiery and to oscillate during the formation of the heel and toe. The main yarn X is guided through a suitable opening 12 in the latch ring.

Supported by the spindle 16 which is slid ably mounted in the frame and which may also be rotatably mounted for shogging pur- I poses is the wrap fingercylinder 18, in slots in which are located'the oscillatable wrap fingers 20 provided with suitable threadeyes at their lower ends for the reception of wrap yarns indicated at W. These yarn "fingers i are provided with fulcrum portions resting in the trough of an annular ring 22, the fingers being held in position by a retaining spring band 24. To procure very elaborate designs there may be as many threaded fingers'20 as there' are needles. In fact, this is the preferred construction. However, if clock designs or bandwrapping is to be performed there may be a smaller number of fingers than needles. In the former caseshogging, is not feasible since at all times there would be fingers passing between adjacent needles. On the other hand if certain of the fingers are absent shogging may'take place during the periods when no fingers are passing through the needle circle.

Each of the wrap fingers 20 is provided with'a series of butts 26 used for patterning purposes, and in the present instance with single butts 27 at their uppermost ends for purposes hereafter described. Selected butts 26 may be broken out according to the usual practice for the production of designs.

Adapted to cooperate with the butts 26 are cams 28 in the form of a series of levers, corresponding in number to the number of butts, pivoted on a pin 30 carried by a lever 32 which is pivoted at 36 to a support carried by the rotating cam ring 8. Each of the cams 28 is provided with a face 38 adapted to engage the butts to move the lower ends of the fingers outwardly between the needles, these lower ends being twisted out of radial plans so as to carry the wrap yarns about the needles, during oscillatory movements of the fingers, in a clockwise direction as viewed from above. Each of the cam levers is urged by an individual spring 40 to bring a lug 42 carried thereby and having a sloping cam surface into engagement with tricks carried by the trick wheel 44. As is usual in the production of patterns with trick wheels certain butts on the tricks are missing. If there is at any time no trick butt opposite the lug 42 of the cam lever28 the cam lever will be moved by the spring until its extension 46 en-- gages the stop pin 47 carried by the lever 32. This Stop pin 47 may of course be omitted and the lug permitted to drop against the trick wheel; however in 'such cases undue wear on the wheel occurs and it is preferable to stop the lugs short of engagement with the wheel by the means just described. The lever 32 is provided with an adjustable follower screw 48" arranged to engage either a flat 50 or a slope 52 formed on the end of a lever 54 carried by a shaft 56 mounted in the frame and carrying at its lower end'an arm 58 having an engaging face 59 for a purpose later described. The arm 58 also-carries a pin 60 extending downwardly within a slot 62 in a lever 64 pivoted at 66 and having an engaging corner 65.

The trick wheel 44 is pivoted on a stud carried by a bracket secured to cam ring 8 and is provided with ratchet teeth 68 eecams rotate in a clockwise direction. as

follower 78 having the shape illustrated, the

follower 78 being at a level just above that of the lever 58. A spring 80 reacting between the follower 78 and bracket 72 normally moves the pawl to a retracted position.

Adapted to cooperate with the levers 58 and 64 and with follower 78 is a disc 82 carried by a vertically movable rod slidable in a sleeve carried by a stationary part of the machine frame. The movements of this red in a vertical direction are controlled by a pattern chain in the manner illustrated in the Shelmire' application, Serial Number 469,056. As pointed out in this case, such operation results in stepping of the trick wheel or movement of the wrap fingers into or out of operative positions.

Secured to the upper end of shaft 56 as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 is an arm 84 provided with a cam surface 86 arranged to engage an adjustable follower screw carried by onearm 88 of a lever 90 which on the side of its pivot opposite the arm 88 isprovided with a cam surface 92. This cam surface 92 is arranged to engage the butts 27 of the wrap fingers in the same manner as the butts 26 are engaged by the cam surfaces 38 of levers 28. While the cam surfaces 92 and 38 act to move the wrap fingers so that their lower threaded ends are carried outwardly of the needle circle return cams 94 and 96 are provided to act upon the wrap fingers below their fulcrums to return them, this return movement carrying the yarns on the opposite sides of the needles with which the fingers cooperate to effect a complete wrapping operation.

Referring now to Fig. 3 in which there is illustrated a developed inside view of the .needle cams, it will be noted that the usual upper cam 100 is provided at the feed point, on the sides of this there being provided the stitch cams 102 and 104. Since the needle viewed in plan, the relative movements of the needles through the stitch cams will be along the path illustrated in dotted lines in Fig. 3 and in the direction of the arrow. While cams 100, 102 and 104 ar'e of substantially conventional form, there are provided two additional cams 106 and 108 engaged by the butts of the needles prior to passing through the usual cams. By cam 106 the needles are raised being later lowered by the cam. 108 to a position such that the butts will then ride up over cam 104 and be later depressed by cams 100 and .102 to take yarn and form stitches in the usual fashion. By the letters A, B, G and D in Fig. 3 there are designated various 'zones of operation corresponding to actuation of the wrap fingers. The zone A represefits the point where wrapping initially takes place due to the action of cam surface 92 of lever 90 and return cam 96. At this point the wrap yarns are wrapped above the latch of corresponding needles in the usual fashion. After this takes place the needles are moved upwardly by cam 106 through the zone indicated at B. At this time by reason of the upward movement of the needles the loops of wrap arn are caused to occupy a position below t e latch of the needles. Following this operation the needles are again depressed through zone C at which time the loops of wrap yarn will move relatively to the needles up behind the latches without however closing the latches. Thereafter in zone 1) wrapping takes place due to the action of cams 38- and 94, selective wrapping of needles takes place either above the latch or not at all. Thereafter the needles take the main yarn and are drawn down by the stitch cam 102 to form stitches. I

It will now be evident that if the wrap finger corresponding to any needle has been actuated in both zones A and 'D a double loop of wrap yarn will be located about the needle, the first loop being below the latch and the second loop being above the latch.

. When therefore the stitch is formed the wrap yarn will appear in plated relationship to the main yarn.

On the other hand if the wrap finger was actuated only in the zone A and not in the zone D a single loop only of the wrap yarn would be located about the needle below the latch. In this case the resulting stitch would incorporate the wrap yarn in the manner illustrated in Shelmire application 497 ,977,

that is, without this wrap yarn appearing to' any substantial degree from the face of the fabric. In the preferable operation of'the i'nachine all of the wrap fingers are provided with butts 27 and accordingly wraps ping always takes place in the zone Floats are thereby. avoided. The type of fabric formed by this operation will be hereafter referred to in greater detail.

A modified type of machine is illustrated in Fig. 4, which figure, however, may be read with Fig. 3 inasmuch as the cam ar rangement is the same as in the preceding modification. In the arrangement of Fig. 4 there is no single finger such as 90 provided. Instead the stack of fingers illustrated at 28 in Fig. 1 is broken up into two sets having equal numbers of fingers, the upper set illustrated at 110 comprising fingers extending around to the position occupied by the finger 90 of the first modification, these fingers 110 being provided with cam faces112 arranged to coact with upper butts of wrap fingers. The lower set of fingers illustrated at 114 are the same as fingers 28 being provided with versely corresponding wheel so that if a nger wraps its corresponding needle under the action of cam 112 it will not be acted upon by a cam 116 and vice versa. In other words, while by the use of proper butts on the trick finger floating is always prevented, nevertheless during any rotation any needle is wrapped but once, the

location of the wrap loop at the time of stitch drawing being either above or below the latch. In this way the double loops produced by the first modification are avoided. However, it is found that such double loops are generally to be preferred so that accordingly the modification of Fi s. 1, 2 and 3 appears to be best. One of t e advantages from an operating standpoint consists in the fact that the double wrapping of yarn about a needle causes the wrap yarn to invariably appear on the face in properly plated relatlonship apparently because of the tight engagement thereof with the needle by reason of the initial wrap below the latch.

In the above operations it has been assumed that the wrapping has taken place so that floats are totally avoided. It will be obvious however that floating may occur, if desired, particularly if an absolutely total disappearance of the wrap yarn is desired at some portions of the fabric. In the modifications of Figs. 1 and 2 this may be readily effected by elimination of butts 27 of certain wrap fingers. In the modification of Fig. 4 the setup of the trick wheel may provide selective floating. l

The products of the two modifications are illustrated respectively in Figs. 5 and 6. In Fig. 5 the loop L has been produced by the wrapping of a needle in zone A only,

followed by the formation of the stitch after the needles takes the body yarn Y. In this ease the wrap yarn embraces the base of the loop L as indicated at W When this occurs the wrap yarn is substantially invisible from the face of the fabric. In the formation of the next loop L the wrap yarn was not only wrapped about the needle in the zone A but also in zone D. The result of wrapping in zone A followed by movement of the needle so that the latch clears the loop is a production of the loop W about the base of the loop L The wrapping in zone D results. in plating as illustrated at P The next two loops in the wale illustrated are formed in the same manner as loop L However in the formation of loop L, wrap' ing in zone A only has again taken place an accordingly loop L is unplated, the wrap yarn being looped about its base. It will thus be obaasaaa vious that the wrap'ya'rn maybe made to selectively appear or be hidden, as desired, without the presence of floats.

In Fig. 6 there is illustrated the product wrapping may be effected. In the loop L of Fig. 6 the wrap yarn appears in plated relationship as illustrated at P On the other hand in loop L the wrap yarn does not appear in plated relationship being wrapped about the base of the loop as indicated at W It will be obvious from the above that by the use of the modification of Fig. 4 which, however, is mechanically more elaborate than the modification of Figs. '1 and 2, a wale of the fabric may comprise plated loops produced by double wrapping, unplated loops having the wrap yarn associated therewith in invisible fashion, or even loops behind which the wrapyarn floats, all depending on the proper set-up of the trick wheel. The wale particularly illustrated in Fig. 6 is, of course, similar to. that produced by the machine of Shehnire application, Serial Number 497,977.

The advantages of the arrangement illus trated in Fig. 5 besides the insurance of plating, as noted above, are the density of wrap yarn where it is desired that the wrap yarn shall appear on the face of the fabric combined w1th a sometimes desirable embossed appearance'when the wrap yarn is complished when all of the needles are being wrapped. However, if certain needles only are being wrapped the wrap fingers maybe shogged relatively to the needles when no wrap fingers are" passing through the needle circle. If shogging is used in this fashion it will be obvious that elaborate designs in volving double 'or single wrapping may be produced.

While preferably, for mechanical reasons,

wrap ing to finally locate a loop of am below the latch is effected prior to w iapping to produce a loop of wrap yarn above the latch, the stitches may be reversed, that is, wrapping above the latch may precede wrapping below the latch. If wrapping at both places occurs in this last order an-arrangement similar to that illustrated in 5 is produced, the similarity being in the general appearance rather than the specific lay of the yarns.

The illustrations in Figs. 5 and 6 are diagrammatic since the specific positions occupied by the yarns depends to a great extent u on relative tensions, location on the needle 0 the wrap yarns, etc. This is brought out in Shelmire application, Serial Number 497,- 977, in which the radial effect of heavy tension on the wrap yarn is shown. Figs. 5 and 6 are accordingly meantonly to illustrate the relative crossings and interlockings of the yarns. riations produced by different tensioning, or the like, in the following claims even though for clarity such claims are directed to the arrangement particularly illustrated.

What we claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:

1. A knitted fabric including a body of interlinked courses and a wrap yarn; said wrap yarn extending in the general direc tion of the wales of the fabric and in certain places being both interengaged with the bases of main loops, the portion of wrap yarn so interengaged being substantially hidden by the main loops, and also forming loops lying with and plating the same main loops.

2. A knitted fabric including a body of interlinked courses and a wrap yarn; said wrap yarn extending in the general direction of the wales of the fabric, and in certain places being both interengaged with the bases of main s, the portion of wrap am so interengage being substantially hi den by .being looped thereabout the main loops, and

also forming loops lying with and plating the same main loops. I

3. A knitted fabric including abody of interlinked courses and a wrap yarn; said wra yarn extending in the general direction of t e wales of the fabric, in certain places being both interengaged with the bases of main loops, the portion of wrap am so interengaged being substantially hi den by the main loops, and also formin loops lying with and plating the same main oops, and in certain other places bein tied in with main loops and hidden there y.

4. A knitted fabric including a body of,

interlinked courses and a wrap yarn; said wra yarn extending in the of t e wales of the fabric, 1n certain places being both intereng -g with the bases of main loops, the portion of wrap am so 1nterengaged being substantially 'dden by bein loo thereabout the main loops, and also 0 loops lying with and platm the same main cops, and in certain other aces bemfiatied in with main loops and hidden there y.

In testimony of which invention, we have hereunto set our hands, at Wilmington, Delaware, on this 7th da of October 1931.

PAUL 'BRISTOW.

E. HOUSEMAN.

It is therefore intended to cover vageneral direction

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