US1885197A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Nav. l, 1932; GjGoDDU METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed July 19, 1929 JERSEY UNH-ED STATES PATENT GEORGE GODDUQOE WINcHEsTER-MAssAcEUsETTs,YAssTGNOR To UNITED SHOE NLA- OEINERY CORPORATION, OE rATERsoN, NEW JERSEY, .A CORPORATION OE;` NEW.

METHOD OE MAKING sHoEsl Y .Applieationmed July 19, 1929. serial No. 379,419.`

Thisinvention relates to methods of making shoes and is herein exemplified .with special reference to methods of making turn shoes. Y

5 In the manufacture of turn shoes, anupper and a suitably channeled sole are assembled inside out upon a last, the upper is then lasted over the sole, and the shoe sewed eitherall the way roundy the periphery of the sole as in a sewed seat turn or about the shank and forepartv from breast line to' breast line as in a` last. In the case'of a sewed seat turn shoe,

the shank piece is placed in the shoe after it is turned and is secured by gl'ueor by a tack at the heel-seat, or both. In the case of an open seat turn shoe, the shank piece is usually: inserted after ythe forepart ofthe shoe hasl been turnedand forced on tothe secondlast and before the rearvpart is drawnl over the rear end of the last. Ashank piece so inserted may be temporarily secured infplace by a'tack driven vthrough the shank piece and into the last, thistack beingV forfthe' purpose lasting operation is performedand being then withdrawn. When the shank piece `is placed upon-the second last it may be tempovrarily secured thereto by one or more headv n less tacks so that when the last is withdrawn the headless tacks will be removed Vwith it, they in the meantime having served to hold the shank piece in place during the heel-seat lasting operation. Of course, in the opera- F tion of lasting the heelseat or attaching the heel, the rear end of the shank piece will be firmly securedin place. Its forepart, however, is usually inadequately secured, the glue frequently failing to hold. "if Objects of this invention are to provide a 'i of holding the shank piece in placel until the method ofmaking shoes lby which the frontv l endv of the 'shank piece maybe firmly and permanently secured in place, prior to the" operation of lastingthe heel-seat', by fasten? ings which do not penetrate the sole and are not visible on'the exterior of theshoe 'i In onel aspect the invention consists yin attaching a Vshankpiece to a turn shoe whilek it is stilly inside out, the shank piece being thus held in place during the subsequent last!v ing operation anddu'ringthek wear "of the shoe. In another aspect .the invention consists 1n securing the Yfront end of a shank 1 piece toa turn shoe by la fastening or fastenings ldriven through the frontend of the vshank piece and .into the sole in. such a mannerthat they do not penetrate the sole; As illustrated, a metallic fastening is so dri-ven thatitbecomes clinchedV in the body of'thef sole. Since the shank piece has a longitudinal curvature corresponding to the'longitudi.-

nal curvatureof the shank portion of the last and is placed upon the turn shoe before itis turned,v itis illustrated as positioned with its convex face uppermost and hence en-` gages theshoe bottom only at its two ends.

This condition, however, does not interfere y with the attachment of the forward lend fof the stifene'r and theexposed face of the solel of the turn shoe before .it is turned in` themanner described. Preferablyrthe fastenings used are curved staplesginserted at` opposite'corners 'ofthe front end of the shank with their bars extending transversely of the i shoe and with theirlegs curved in planes eX tending lengthwisev of the shoe and curved back toward the face of the sole through which .they entered, being. thus located .inr-

the' body ofthesole without penetrating the sole. l'

VIn the drawing, i

Fig. 1- is a perspective view ofl a turn yshoein unturned conditionhavingl a shank piece secured at its forward end tothe sole, and

Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section of the shoe" and last after the shoe has beenlturnedjplaced upon the second last, and the Vhee'llfseatlasted. The ,illustrated method of making.` turn shoes in which a shank piece. is secured tothevv shoe .before the shoe is'turned, consists .in

assembling an upper 10 and a suitably chan* neled sole 12 on a last 14 in the usual manner, the upper and sole being of course inside out. The upper is then lasted over the sole and sewed thereto by a seam 16 extending about the periphery of the shank and forepart of the shoe substantially `from breast line to breast line in an open seat shoe, fas illustrated, or entirely about the periphery of y, the shoe in the case of a sewed seat. At this stage in the manufacture of the shoe, a shank piece 18 is placed upon the shoe bottom with its rear end substantially flush with the end of the last and with its longitudinal convexity outward and is secured at its front end to the sole 12 by staples 2O which extend through the shank piece adjacent to the opposite corners of the front end thereof and into the sole, the legs of the staples :being bent in the operation of driving so that they becomerclinched in the body of the sole instead of extending through the sole, as illustrated in Fig. 2; that is, the legs of the staples do not penetrate the face of the sole which isexposed in the completed shoe, that face being therefore intact.

.The machine employed for inserting the staples may be similar to that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,742,499, granted January y7, 1930, upon myvapplication.

The shoe is then turned, relasted, and completed in the usual manner. In the case of an open seat shoe, the upper, counter and lining at the rear end of the shoe will be worked over the rear end of the shank piece 18 and secured by tacks 22, as illustrated in F ig. 2, to eifect the heel-seat lasting of the shoe, the staples 20 serving to hold the shank --l' piece in place during this operation as well as throughout the life of the shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1A. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which comprises Working an upper including a counter inside out over a sole upon a last, securing the upper and sole permanently together, and then before the shoe is turned securing a shank piece'at front end to the sole adjacent to the ball ine.

2. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which comprises working an upper inside out over a sole upon a last, se

curing the upper and sole permanently together, and before the shoe is turned securing a shank piece at its front end to the sole by curved metallic fastenings driven through the shank piece and into but not through the sole, said shank piece being longitudinally curved and having the shape it is to have after the shoe is turned.V

3. That improvement in methods of `making turn shoes which comprises working an 4. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which comprises working an upper inside out over a sole upon alast, sewing the upper to the sole, placing a longitudinally curved shank piece upon the shank portion of the shoe Vwith'its rear end flush with the end of the last and with its longitudinal convexity outward, then securing the front end of the shank piece to the shoe by staples so driven that the legs of the staples extend through the shank piece and into the sole and are clinched in the body of the sole without extending through the sole, turning the shoe, and conforming the sole to the curve of the shank piece.

5. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which comprises working an upper inside out over a sole upon a last, securing the upper to the sole, placing a longitudinally curved shank piece upon the shank portion of the shoe with its rear end flush with the end of the last and with its longitudinal convexity outward, then securing the front end of the shank piece to the shoe by staples so driven that the legs of the staples are curved in the sole and do not penetrate -v l' that surface of the sole which is outermost in the completed shoe, turning the shoe, and conforming the sole to the curve of the shank piece.

6. That improvement in methods of makf' ing turn shoes which comprises attaching the front end of a longitudinally curved, rigid shank piece to the sole by a plurality of staples driven with their bars extending transversely of the shoe and with their legs curved longitudinally of the shoe and embeddedin the sole without appearing on that face of the sole which is exposed in the completed shoe.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

Groen sonno.

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